How Do You Distinguish Original Jeans Models?

Today our markets are overwhelmed by fake jeans models made on the factories of Indonesia, China and Korea. Sometimes they are well imitating original customized denim and their price is correspondingly high. And you discover you’ve bought a fake only after a couple of months during which you’ve been wearing your jeans! The cloth on seams wears off, and the knees of the jeans are destroyed with wrinkles. Today it can be really difficult to find genuine quality denim. Besides, we always want to have it cheap and quality.

That is why from now on you’ll have to become a bit skeptical when you decide to buy a new pair of jeans. Most fake models imitate classical denim by established brands like Lee, Wrangler and Levi’s or modern custom jeans by TomTailor or Getwear. The first quality characteristic is, of course, the price of tailor made jeans. Original models that cost 20 dollars do not exist. Such denim will be destroyed very soon. The best way to check the jeans is to fold them on seams – if you see that trouser legs build wrinkles and warp, don’t buy them, they are definitely fake.

The next thing you should explore is the pattern of denim. Even the cheapest cotton fabric can look like quality denim with the help of amylum. However, after the first wash the amylum is washed away and the jeans are ruined. That is why always feel the denim structure with your hands. The looks of fake jeans can strongly resemble the looks of original Lee or Wrangler, but the weight of the fake is less than 850 grams quality denim should have. Then denim Turkish and Chinese jeans are sewn from is very cheap. Even specialist can’t distinguish it from quality denim if they don’t have the opportunity to feel it, so be careful!

Another feature that distinguished quality jeans is their herringbone pattern. Denim should also be regular inside and outside, there should be absolutely no loose stitches or inequalities. Examine the denim your jeans were manufactured from against the light. Then turn the jeans inside out and examine all seams. There also should be no loose stitches or broken seams. All fabric edges should be closed and carefully sewn. Inner stitches of brand jeans are always sewn with a yellow silk thread which doesn’t change its color when the jeans are won or washed. All stitches should be done two times. The bottom of the jeans is sewn with a special double stitch and the step-by-step stitch is made with a solid loopy seam 10-12 centimeters long. Also observe the outside side seams. If you notice a red thread on the edge of denim, then you deal with the original.

On the outside the trademark of most brand jeans is a stitching on back pockets – each denim brand has its own distinguishing feature. Pockets and jeans details are fixed by rivets. Asymmetrical pockets or stitchings are an indication of a fake. Inscriptions on rivets should correspond with the label.

Genuine American jeans usually have a thick leather label on the belt (Levi’s and Lee) or on the pocket (Wrangler). A small Logo should also be repeated on the pocket in a fabric variant. Fake models have a label made from cloth or faux leather. The tag of original customized jeans often has a rumply structure but is carefully seamed on all the sides. Carton tag of quality denim has a bright stamp which can’t be erased when rubbed with a finger. Fake jeans have tags with toneless stamps, for quality printing is expensive as well.

Belt loops guarantee a good fit of jeans. Usually men’s jeans have 7 belt loops and jeans for women have 5. Inner tag of quality American made to measure jeans should include all the information about the product: taking care, size, European code of 10 numbers.

But the main distinguishing feature of original denim are furnishings – zippers, rivets, buttons. Quality denim has furniture of YKK and no other. A logo of the brand should be sewn on the back pockets of jeans.

However, the best way to prevent yourself from buying fake jeans is to buy denim in specialized brand stores.

Timber Fences Vs Colorbond Fences

In my opinion if properly maintained a colorbond fence will outlast a timber fence by 5-10 years. Colorbond fences are made from steel so the paint will fade and the steel eventually rust but not so quickly as treated pine or even hardwood posts will rot through enough to lose stability.

A modification growing in popularity to increase the life of the timber fence is to use Galvanised steel posts. Galvanised Steel posts may eventually rust but the steel is thicker than colorbond steel so the posts will outlast colorbond posts however the timber will still generally warp, fade and rot therefore still living less time than a colorbond fence however if the fence is maintained correctly when the timber has seen its last days you can simply cut the timber frame away and re-use the same steel posts for your next fence.

This will reduce the cost of your next fence substantially because most of the labour in fence building is the setting of the posts which won’t be necessary. The price of a standard 1.8m high paling fence is not increased using steel posts as light gauge steel posts can be utilised for the same cost as timber posts.

If you wish to upgrade to a higher fence or lapped palings then this will increase the cost of the steel posts as heavier gauge steel will be required.Steel posts will increase the life of your timber fence however many people don’t like the look of steel posts and wish their entire fence to be made from timber therefore opting for timber posts.

Colorbond will generally last longer than timber fences with timber posts, it has other disadvantages. The heat from our hot Australian sun is absorbed into the steel and radiates onto plants close to the fence which can be harmful to the plants depending on how well the plant handles increased temperature.

Also colorbond fencing is easily bent or dented by kids, animals or vandals. For this reason I do not recommend a colorbond fence that backs onto a public area because vandals seem to love tagging them, (spraying them with spray paint) or kicking and denting them.

Although there are over 32 colours to choose from with your colorbond fencing, neighbors often do not agree and it can be costly to paint one side a different colour.

In summary both colorbond and timber fences have their advantages and disadvantages and your personal circumstances will depend which fence type would best suit your needs.

How Much Should I Pay For Deer Fencing?

Choosing a deer fence to keep deer out of a protected area does not have to be a costly and time consuming process. Nor does it even have to be a permanent installation. Fortunately a deer is large enough that a fence does not have to have a weave of fencing really small such as would be the case in fencing out rabbits, but having a small weave to keep out smaller critters is a benefit. Deer are strong and can jump very high. Where a five or six foot fence would keep out many other woodland creatures, a deer fence needs to be at least seven and a half feet high. It needs to be constructed of fencing material that cannot be broken or trampled by the hooves of deer. A hungry and determined deer can destroy poor fencing in a matter of seconds.

Deer are not considered aggressive, so this mindset is in place as property owners are considering what type of fencing is needed to keep them out. In order to break that mindset, consider that every year there are people gored to death by male deer. Antlers and hooves can wreak havoc on flesh or fence. Also, many protected areas are isolated in that they cannot be watched constantly. This allows much time for deer to destroy fencing.

To adequately fence in a large garden costs about $700.00. This includes a 330 foot roll of incredibly strong fence that will enclose a square garden that is 82.5 feet on each side or a rectangle or other shape that does not exceed more than a total of 330 feet. This price includes sturdy posts to mount the fence fabric as well as ground stakes that will keep the fencing from being pushed up from the bottom, heavy duty locking ties and white warning banners. Fencing is available in an eight foot height for a few dollars more that adds an additional half foot of protection against jumping deer.

Superior deer fencing is no longer made of metal. Technological advances in polymers allow fencing to be made lightweight and flexible yet strong enough to turn away the most determined deer. A 330 foot roll of deer fence only weighs about 47 pounds but has a breaking strength approaching 600 pounds per square foot of fence. Modern deer fencing can be more easily installed and is available at much lower cost than options available just a few years ago. There is no need to let the deer ruin anything.

Hotel Supplies and Amenities for Encouraging Better Guest Experience

The Hotel industry is expanding with every passing day due to the boom in leisure and corporate tourism. Frequency of travel has increased over the past decade, leading the hotels to compete in every manner to attract more guests and give them a comfortable stay. Hoteliers know the fact that if they want their customers to choose them over the competitors they have to provide something extra to the guests. Most important one is by offering the quality and right hotel amenities to the guests at suitable rates. If you want your hotel to succeed than it should keep itself ahead in the current trends which will ensure better occupancy rates.

You can start on the hotel amenities services by providing the basic things and supplies like toiletries, towels, hangers, etc. These basic hotel supplies are targeted towards providing the guests ultimate convenience and feel at home factor. However the definition of basic hotel supplies differs on the hotel class and type. The Hotel industry is a highly competitive industry and competes with one another for business. Thus the hotel amenities and supplies that they provide are part of the competition which concerns things like- how many amenities are being offered, its types and the quality and design of the products.

Guests’ expectations of such supplies are affected by the type of hotel and its sophistication level. Hangers, ice boxes, absorbent towels, exquisite bed linens, wooden luggage racks, etc these are basic hotel supplies for mid level hotels. The main aim for providing such extra luxury items is to increase the occupancy rates of the hotel rooms. As the level of the hotel goes up, so does the quality and number of hotel supplies and amenities.

Hotels and resorts that are 5-star and above provide a high level of guest services and amenities to attract and sustain high-end guests. For instance- shaving kits, medical kits, microfiber Bathrobe and towels, shaving mirrors with fog-free feature, in-room lockers, refrigerators, mini bar, etc are just some examples of high quality hotel supplies of such luxury hotels and resorts. Not only do such additional amenities attract new guests but they also increase the occupancy rates.

Guests give rating’s for the hotel supplies and guest complementaries they utilize based on there quality and there convenience. When an hotelier is in the process of deciding which hotel amenities they would provide, a number of factors would influence the decision like- the budget, expectations of their guests, type of guests they receive, etc. The value and importance of hotel supplies cannot be overlooked as they have direct Affect on the occupancy rates.

Cost Estimates for Your Sturgis Rally Vacation

If you are headed to Sturgis for the Black Hills Rally and Races in Sturgis South Dakota you may be wondering how much your trip to the Black Hills will cost? As with any vacation it’s always best to have a budget and plan your trip based on your budget. So with that in mind here are some estimates of typical costs related to a vacation to Sturgis South Dakota for the Bike Rally.

Lodging or Camping:

Hotels in and near Sturgis can be very tough to find during Rally week. If you can find a Hotel room expect to pay nearly $300-$400 per night for a Super 8 type room. If you are camping you usually reserve a space that covers you for 15 days that allow for time before and after the Sturgis rally. This can range from $100-$175 per camper using a tent site. If you have an RV expect a charge of $400 for 30 Amp or $450 for 50 Amp service. Many campgrounds also charge a per camper fee on top of this so add that $100-$175 back on. You can rent a house for around $2500.00 which might work for groups of riders.


Since you’ll be riding a motorcycle you will obviously be consuming a fair quantity of gasoline. Typically you’ll get around 25 miles per gallon so to figure out your gasoline costs look at it as $12 per 100 miles. Take your distance to and from Sturgis and then look at the riding you’ll do on a day to day basis. When I tour around the Black Hills I usually ride about 300 miles per day. So for me 1200 miles to travel to and from Sturgis and 900 miles touring gives me a fuel cost of $252.00. Of course if you trailer your motorcycle you’ll need to adjust your costs for the MPG that your truck or car or RV gets.


Much of the food you’ll eat is fast in nature. You’ll eat a lot of fair type foods and diner type foods. It would be fair to estimate $15 – $30 per day for food (not including alcohol) depending on where you like to eat.


If you like to party you can expect to spend a lot on alcohol. Just like a concert or football game if you buy beer in a bar or campground concerts you can expect to pay $6-$7 per beer + tip. So how much do you drink? Take that number of beers and multiply by $7 to get your estimate. You can save money at some campgrounds by keeping an inexpensive cooler and ice and buying beer by the case.

Total Sturgis Trip Cost:

So for a couple of riders on a 5 day trip from the Midwest here’s the cost estimates I’ve figured. Tent camping in around Sturgis $300.00. Fuel for both riders $500.00. Food at $50 per day for the pair $250 and three days of partying $180.00 I didn’t include souvenirs but from my figures this trip for two riders would run about $1230.00 I’d recommend just bring $1500 and you’d be covered. As you can see Sturgis is a very economical vacation but it has a lot of cost variables that will affect the total cost of your vacation to the Sturgis Rally in the Black Hills of South Dakota.

Misdemeanor Complaint for Violation(s) of City Municipal Code: Defense and Disposition

A complainant, usually a dissatisfied tenant, reports alleged violations of the City Municipal Code to the City Housing Department. An inspector from the Housing Department conducts a systematic inspection pursuant to the City Housing Code, Section 161.602.1 of the Los Angeles Housing Code, if the property is located in Los Angeles.

The inspector finds several violations during the inspection in the presence of the property owner, property manager, or representative.

A Notice & Order To Comply is issued by the City Housing Department, listing and documenting the violations. The property owner makes corrections of the violations.

A reinspection is conducted by the same City Housing Department inspector or by another inspector. Some violations are corrected, but others remain from the previous inspection. The inspector takes photographs documenting the remaining violations.

General Manager’s Hearing:

The remaining violations or deficiencies have not been signed off as completed.

An inspector from the Housing Department posts the Notice of General Manager’s Hearing for a specified date. Indeed, in accordance with Sections 161.801 and 161.805 of the Los Angeles Municipal Code, whenever a violation has not been corrected by the time specified for compliance, the General Manager shall hold a hearing.

A General Manager’s Hearing is conducted. The property owner or agent is present. The property owner is given a sixty-day continuance.

Another reinspection is held which reveals more corrections, but still some violations remain from the previous inspection. A General Manager’s Hearing is again held; and the property owner given another sixty-day continuance.

After two months, a General Manager’s Hearing is again held. The property owner is not given additional time to abate the remaining violations. The Hearing Officer recommends that the case be prepared and submitted to the City Attorney’s Office for prosecution.

Misdemeanor Complaint Filed By City Attorney:

Los Angeles City Attorney Carmen A. Trutanich, through a Deputy City Attorney, files a Misdemeanor Complaint of four counts for each of the four remaining violations, to wit: Count 1 for violation of Sections 93.0314 and 93.0201 of the Los Angeles Municipal Code (LAMC) for wiring and installing a meter at the exterior of the building without permits; Count 2 for violation of the aforesaid sections of the LAMC for installing wiring in the basement without permits; Count 3 for violation of Section 94.500 of the LAMC for installing a water heater without first obtaining a permit; and Count 4 for violation of Section 91.805 of the LAMC for failure to discontinue use of porch enclosure and roof extension construction without permits.

Each of the four violations is charged as a misdemeanor, punishable under California Penal Code Section 19 by imprisonment in the county jail not exceeding six months, or by fine not exceeding one thousand dollars ($1,000), or by both.

Defense To City Municipal Code Violations:

Violations of the Municipal Code documented by photographs taken by an inspector of the property and search of the Department of Building and Safety records that no permits had been applied for or issued to the property owner can hardly be defended in Court.

Presenting a timeline or schedule for abating or correcting the deficiencies to the prosecuting Deputy City Attorney would go a long way to obtaining a continuance of the arraignment of the erring property owner.

Indeed, the prosecution usually gives the property owner more time to correct the violations, even as safety of the occupant(s) of the property is a primary concern. Moreso, if it takes so much money to do the corrections.

Submission of estimates of the repairs and corrections to the prosecution and good faith efforts to comply are highly recommended to hopefully obtain a dismissal of the Complaint, or a reduction of the misdemeanor complaint to infraction for payment of fine and assessed costs, if any.

Disposition of Misdemeanor Complaint:

If all corrections of deficiencies are signed off as completed by reinspection by an inspector of the City Housing Department, the prosecution may be disposed to dismiss the Complaint.

If the corrections took time to complete or not completed, the prosecution may not dismiss the complaint, and seek conviction for misdemeanor or infraction.

If the property with uncorrected violations is foreclosed, the complaint may be dismissed as against the foreclosed property owner.

But most likely, the new owner would be subjected to the same process of inspection by the City Housing Department and even prosecution by the City Attorney, if the new owner does not correct the deficiencies.

Let it be fair warning though that notorious “slumlords” have been imprisoned for repeated and uncorrected violations of the City Municipal Code.

(The Author, Roman P. Mosqueda, has practiced as defense counsel of property owners charged with violations of the City Municipal Code in Los Angeles, Long Beach, and elsewhere for over 15 years. He is a long-time member of the California Public Defenders Association. Send comments by e-mail to, or call (213) 252-9481 for free consultation, or visit his website at

Types of CAD Jobs

The demand for CAD (computer aided design) jobs have continued to grow over the last several years. Many people who are unfamiliar with the technology believe that it is nothing more than simply creating digital designs, however this couldn’t be farther from the truth. In reality, there are a number of unique CAD jobs available. To get an idea of what types of jobs are available, here is quick look at some of the job openings that have shown the biggest need recently. While there are many different descriptions (CAD operator, technician, drafter, etc), they all means essentially the same thing

Types of CAD Jobs

A CAD drafter essentially prepare technical drawings and plan. These plans are used by production and construction engineers to build a finished product. These products range from the tallest buildings to smallest microchips. Drafters create the visual guidelines that will specify details such as the dimensions, procedures, and materials that will be used. The drafter is responsible for melding the information that is given to them from scientists, surveyors, engineers, architects, and the like.

There are a variety of different specialties that a CAD technician could have including: aeronautics, architectural, civil, electrical, mechanical, and process piping.

An aeronautical CAD drafter creates engineering drawings that are detailed plans and specifications that will be used in the manufacturing of goods such as missiles and aircraft.

An architectural CAD operator will create structural features for construction projects. Some CAD operators will specialize even further based upon the type of structure (residential or commercial) or material being used (masonry, wood, steel, or reinforced concrete).

An electrical CAD drafter will deal primarily with layout diagrams that are used be electricians and workers who deal with electrical equipment such as power plants and communication centers.

Civil CAD technicians create relief and topographical maps that can be used to aid in construction and civil engineering projects. These would include things like water systems, sewage systems, pipelines, highways, bridges, and the like.

Pipeline (Process Piping) drafters focus primarily on creating the layout of gas fields, refineries, chemical plants and related projects.

There are other specialties as well including: mechanical and electronics CAD engineers as well.

CAD Work Environment

CAD drafters of all types often have similar working environments. Most will have their own office space and spend extremely long hours in front of the computer. Oftentimes, they will have a standard 40 hour work week (or overtime) because part time CAD workers are rarely needed.

CAD Yearly Earnings

The average yearly income varies based upon location and specialty, however the Bureau of Labor Statistics reports that architectural and civil engineers earn $44,390, mechanical drafters earn $47,630, and electrical and electronic CAD drafters earn $47,910 per year.

While the basic function of a CAD drafter is fairly similar, the specialties related to specific types of CAD jobs vary greatly based upon the employee specialization. The basic specialties can be group into: aeronautical, architectural, electrical, civil, pipeline, mechanical, and electronics. The need for different types of CAD jobs is currently projected to continue to increase over the next decade, if not longer.

Terminology and Glossary

When it comes to TV entertainment centers, there's a lot of terminology you might not be familiar with. There are various design, furniture, and construction terms that are good to know if you're shopping for a new unit. Check out some of the TV entertainment center-related terms below and get familiar with the language of entertainment centers.

Banding: a special veneer that is divided into small, thin strips and placed on various furniture to add decorative effect.

Canterbury: a small magazine rack that is typically portable in nature.

Case Piece: Any piece of furniture that offers interior storage space.

Chamfer: a corner or edge of a furniture piece that is cut at a distinct angle. The edge might also be beveled.

Center Glide: common in TV entertainment centers, it is a center track that allows for the TV to rest on a stand and be dropped in and out of the unit.

Chinoiserie: a popular Chinese design that involves painting / lacquering.

Console: A table that is fixed to a wall and supported by one or more carved legs. Also any table meant to be placed against a wall.

Double Doweled: a joint that involves two joined pieces of wood that are connected via two dowel pins instead of one. This provides added durability and security.

Dovetail: a specific joint that incorporates interlocking two pieces of wood with special cuts at the end.

Dowel: a wooden pin used to attach pieces of wood.

Entertainment Center: a shelving unit designed to house your TV, radio and stereo equipment, and other multimedia devices. TV entertainment centers come in all sizes and vary very in style.

Gallery: a small ornamental railing placed on cabinets and tables often for decorative purposes but also to protect items from falling off.

Hardwood: any wood that is derived from angiosperms. Hardwoods include oak, beech, maple, mahogany, and walnut).

High Pressure Laminates: a synthetic material applied to the front of furniture that add protection to the piece. They protect against heat, soil, and stains. These types of laminates are treated with paintings, lacquers, and other finishing materials to go along with the overall look of the furniture piece it's protecting.

Inlay: a material added to a furniture piece to create design accents and add beauty.

Pressboard: a durable board often used for case backs and other elements of furniture. Also known as composition board or particle board.

Soft Woods: woods from a conifer. A conifer is any seed-bearing tree. Softwoods include pine, cedar and redwood.

TV Cavity: the space in a TV entertainment center or cabinet unit designed to hold your television. The TV cavity is designed to hold up to a certain size TV set, including height and depth.

TV Stand: a stand designed specifically to hold a TV. Also commonly referred to as a TV table.

Veneer: a thin decorative piece of wood applied to undering wood solids or particleboard. Veneers are used to match and balance grain, create inlay and banding effects.

Wall Units: a larger free-standing or wall hung unit that contains drawers, shelves, cabinets, desks, ban units, entertainment centers or other features.

Make Your Own Hemp Candle Wicks: It’s Easier to Do Than You Think

A lot of people (myself included) have found that there is a very large amount of hemp left over in their house. So, what can you do with it all? One of the best, easiest, and simplest things that you can do is to make your own hemp candle wicks. How do you do it?

First, a quick explanation of makes a wick a wick (instead of a string or anything else). It is simply a strand of something flammable that is coated with something else that is flammable. Though this sounds strange, it actually makes it burn slower. However, there are a few things that you have to do to properly transform your hemp into a wick. Normally with cotton, you need to soak it with water, salt, and acid. Since hemp is already much dryer than cotton, you can either do this step or skip it, it is up to you.

If you do decide to soak the hemp in this solution, make sure to let it dry out thoroughly before the next step. Once it is fully dry, melt some wax in a double boiler to dip it in. You can use paraffin wax, soybean wax, beeswax, or just use an old candle that has burned out (a great way to save money and the rest of the candle!) Ideally, you want to heat the wax up to 160 to 170 degrees (Fahrenheit) before you start dipping the wick.

If at all possible, you want to dip the wick while keeping it perfectly straight. The easiest way to do this is to tie a weight to the bottom of the thread (anything will work, such as a quarter) and then hang it from something as it dries so that it stays straight. If you want to do more than one at a time, you can either buy specially made racks (a little pricey for my tastes), or you can glue paperclips (the thick ones) to a dowel rod for a much cheaper alternative.

After you have dipped it into the melted wax, hang it so that it is straight and let it fully dry and cool. If you real want to make your own hemp candle wicks burn evenly, you can dip then a second time and let them fully dry. This will give them a thick even coating that will burn slowly and consistently, plus it will not need to be trimmed very often. Once you have it coated and dried, you are ready to make your wick into a candle. What’s the easiest, cheapest way that you can do without buying supplies?

Use something around your house as a mold, but we’ll get to that in a minute. First, we need to get or make a wick tab. A wick tab is just a small piece of metal at the bottom of the candle that prevents the wick from burning all the way down, which would either overheat the bottom of the container if it’s a container candle or burn whatever the candle is sitting on. Now, truth be told, wick tabs are so insanely inexpensive (around 10 cents each) that if you think you are going to make more than 3 candles, just buy a pack. If you’re impulsive like me and can’t wait to get some though, you can make one out of a thumbtack. How?

Just stick the thumbtack through the wick and set it in the bottom of your mold, that’s all there is to it. So, now we have a wick that is ready to go, and it is on a wick tab for safety purposes, we are ready to find a mold to make our candle. Almost anything will work, you can use a soup can, coffee can, or even just a soda can. Personally, I like the soda can because I can unmold the candle (soup cans have ridges, so the candle stays in the can). Just cut the top of off the soda can very carefully, minding the sharp edges, and put your ‘wick tab’ in the bottom center of the mold. To keep the wick centered and straight, hang it from something until the candle has cooled.

Once it is all set, just pour the 170 degree wax into the mold and let it cool for several hours. It will sink a bit in the middle, you can either leave it like that or top it off with a little bit of slightly hotter wax (around 175 degrees). Once it has fully cooled, cut the wick to one quarter of an inch, unmold your candle, and your ready to go! Now that you know how to make your own hemp candle wicks, you can make as many candles as you want to!

Yukon Solitaire Strategy Guide

Yukon Solitaire is fun card game, requiring the ability to plan elaborate sequences of long moves. It is quite unusual compared to other solitaire games, because it lets you move stacks of cards when they aren’t in sequence.

It isn’t possible to win every game of Yukon Solitaire, but a good player should be able to win more than 80% of the games they play, if they use the right strategy…

The key to doing well in Yukon Solitaire is to work backwards. Instead of doing any move that is possible, the player should work to expose the uncovered cards.

Starting from the first stack, look at the top exposed card. Then try and find another card that the exposed card could be moved onto, and then try and re-arrange the cards to make the move.

This might be best shown with an example:

Suppose the top exposed card in a column is a red 3. You need to find a black four to play onto. There is only one black four in play right now, and it has a black 6 directly underneath it. So the black 6 needs to be moved… which means that a red seven is needed. Suppose there is a red 7 visible at the bottom of a stack… Then play would proceed like this:

Black 6 onto the Red 7

Red 3 onto the Black 4

And a covered card in the column has now been exposed.

Now usually, the sequence will take longer than that. Sometimes I’ve played out sequences over 10 moves long!

You will find that some columns can not be exposed at this time. Either a card in the sequence is missing, or a card you need is already being used (In the example above, if the black four already had a red three underneath it, then play would be blocked, because there would be nowhere to move the other red three onto).

When that happens, just move onto the next column. I find it helpful to leave my mouse cursor above the column I’m currently analyzing. This helps me to remember which column I am up to, which can be particularly handy if you’ve just been investigating a really long sequence.

If you can’t find any columns that can be exposed, then it’s time to start looking for cards to free that can be moved to the foundation. Are there any cards you can move that would allow you to free an Ace?

If you follow this one tip, you should find that you can quite easily win at least 80% of the Yukon Solitaire games that you play.

How to Mig Weld Overhead – 4 Tips That Work

Do you want to learn how to mig weld overhead just as good as you can when the piece in laying in front of you on a bench? Of course you do or you wouldn’t be reading this.

Here’s how. (these mig welding tips only apply to 1/8″ and thicker steel)

  1. Don’t fear the heat
  2. KYSS…keep your stickout short
  3. Watch the angle of the dangle
  4. CCC…clean, clean, clean

What do I mean by don’t fear the heat? When you are a noob, you tend to think that in order to keep the weld from drooping and hanging down like a bad case of hemorrhoids, you need to turn down the voltage and wire speed. WRONG. You need to mig weld overhead just as hot as you when the weld is in the flat position right in front of you. BUT, in order to make this work, you need to…

KYSS. Keep Your Stickout Short. Too long a stickout (the amount of wire sticking out between the copper contact tip and the arc) will soften the arc and not let the beads flatten out.

Whereas using the same heat you would weld for flat position welding along with keeping your stickout short (1/2″ or less) will cause the bead to punch in and the arc force will help the bead flatten out and not sag.

Watch the angle of the dangle too. The angle of the mig gun that is. Too much angle either way is bad, 90 degrees is good and a slight drag angle is probable best for penetration but lets be real…sometimes you have to push the puddle. Just don’t get crazy with that angle whether you push or pull the mig gun.

Lastly, all the good mig welding techniques in the world wont help much if you welding on dirty, rusty, or oily metal. Use a grinder, a carbide burr, a wire brush, or whatever it takes to Clean, Clean, Clean. The metal does not have to be perfectly clean, but better too clean than too dirty.

Cheer Bows – Attraction in Cheerleading

Cheer Bows play an important role and are an inseparable part of a cheerleaders’ costume. It can be procured from any of the shops that deal in Cheerleading costumes or can be custom made according to your preference. When the material is available, one can make almost anything they want out of it.

In viable cheers, cheerleading bows or cheerleading hair ribbons play an integral part. They can be found in wide range of color and designs. These materials are trendy, exciting and invokes passion for wearing them irrespective of the occasion.

Amongst all the cheerleading accessories that the cheerleaders show off irrespective of event, occasion or competition, cheerleading hair bows or cheer bows are the most creative and commonplace. It adds a flavor to one’s looks during celebrations like birthdays, marriages, school dramas, sports, recreation, etc.As the name suggests, cheer bow is a trendy and customary bow designed to be worn either as an added wear with one’s getup or as a bow or ribbon on the head. People can flaunt their befitting and attractive hairstyle with the help of this whimsical item which comes in vibrant colors. It also offers added features and splendid designs. Its use is diverse but mostly found in the American sub-continent to attract crowds for any given event or occasion. cheer hair bow and many other related added items of cheerleading are widely displayed in large crowd attracting games like soccer, American football, baseball etc.

To make options for assortment wider, manufacturers present huge collection in and above the expectations of cheerleaders. Nowadays, one can find cheers bows in different designs. Some very hot and happening designs are Zebra Print, Double Strips, Dots Print, Star Print and glazing plane prints. Depending upon the choice and costume color, cheerleaders make their selection.

Cheerleading is a game full of magnetism and all-round fun. In any form of game, cheerleaders always try their best to keep the gusto of players and spectators to the highest level. Their appearance is very important in drawing the attention of spectators. Cheer bows play a very important role in complementing the looks of cheerleaders. Striking looks also helps in livening up their confidence as they seek to give their best during cheerleading tournaments. It would be wrong if we say that cheer bows are not centre of attraction in the game of cheerleading. While you are certain to open your wallet for a cheer bow, be specific to the occasion you have in mind.

Necessary Plumbing Services From Plumbing Contractors

If your toilet is producing a gurgling sound or you have leaking water into your ceiling, then you must understand that you have a plumbing problem at your place. In order to control the situation before it gets worse and dangerously ill you must take immediate actions to handle it. In fact, you must call your plumber immediately to quickly solve your problem, saving you money.

Plumbers can offer the following services:

Drain Cleaning Services

Expert plumbers provide a wide variety of drain clog solutions and sewer line replacement options to fit your specific needs. They utilize high-end plumbing techniques and equipment like sewer snake, camera inspection, etc to solve the problem from its root. A sewer snake is a rooter machine that is specifically used to clean and clear drain lines clogged with food items, grease, sludge and soap. It also helps to eliminate hard roots growing into the sewer line and sewer system that can cause greater damage to your plumbing system.

Professional plumbers use camera inspection techniques as the best method of plumbing repair. It addresses drainage problems or any type of root growth in your drainage system. This procedure is carried out in order to delicately identify the location and identify the severity of your drain clogging problem. If the problem is dangerous and creating hurdles to the drain system or water flow then, the technician will point these out and develop the best possible solution customized as per the situation and circumstance.

Water Leak

A dripping faucet is the greatest matter of concern for the home owners. It can cause a lot of trouble and can damage property, reducing its overall value. It not only disturbs the plumbing system but also originates the heath issues for the family members. Plumbing experts can spot the leak in a hidden pipe and repair if necessary. By taking the problem at hand they minimize your overall cost of plumbing repair and also make the plumbing system sound by replacing the old fixtures.

So, for reliable plumbing services you must hire an expert that can manage to offer complete residential or commercial plumbing services. Their area of expertise should include all aspects of plumbing for plumbing projects including water, waste, vent, gas, and fixture installation. They must be experienced in adding or repairing water lines or gas lines to your place. In essence, their services must add complete peace of mind and add value to your property.

Home Drain Snaking – What Is a Handheld Drain Auger?

Handheld Drain Auger Definition

Drain snakes (or augers) are stiff cables with weighted tips that can snake down your household plumbing, busting up or even extracting any obstruction they encounter. The smaller handheld tools are suitable for clearing clogs in drains in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry, garage and workshop, or pool and patio drainage.

Because a backed up or slowly flowing drain is one of the most irritating potentially most damaging, in terms of property, household emergencies, and because a plumber’s bill can easily run into the hundreds for off-hours visits, an inexpensive tool like a handheld drain auger usually makes up its own cost in its first use. Large or active households will find many uses for their drain spinner, particularly models small enough to allow use without requiring removal of stoppers or straining plates.

Different Snake Designs

Designs will vary in spooling out the cable; some are pistol-gripped devices while many larger core drain snakes are simply loosely coiled. Most handheld drain augers of the smallest size available with metal cables come with a spool that can be rotated along with the cable. This drum shaped housing can sometimes be attached to a cordless drill for power rotating. Smaller tools, seen on TV, are made of plastic and too short and flimsy for serious work. True drain snakes will have at least 1/4 inch metal cables of up to 25 feet in length. They are versatile enough to get down a bathtub overflow drain, but strong enough to handle any blockage they encounter.

Drain Snakes and Closet Augers

Do not use these smaller drain snakes on a toilet. The narrow cable can easily become tangled in the wide toilet drain, and if a knot forms beyond reach, you are stuck with an incredible restoration to get it out. This is a rookie move, don’t do it. Only use snakes designed for commodes, called closet augers, on toilets. The design of closet augers makes them safe for use on toilets.

Safety Comes First

And safety always should be a primary concern. While your handheld drain auger is safe for use on other drains in the house, be aware the heavy cable head and rough metal cable can easily damage other fixtures. Use an old washcloth over the area to prevent scratching any porcelain or chrome in your workspace. Eye protection is advisable, because there can be some splashing of dirty water and filth.

Clear That Clog

Drain snakes may be even easier to use than a plunger! Always follow your owner’s manual instructions, but there isn’t much to the basic principles. Extend the cable down the drain, rotating, backing up and moving forward around corners, until you get the impression you have cleared the clog. Standing water should flow away; often you will hear a gurgling noise as the blockage comes clear. Flush fresh water down the drain as you remove the cable back onto its spool, washing it clean then dry with a towel before storage.

Where to Get a Handheld Drain Auger

If you have a few moments to make your drain snake purchase decision, then do some online research. For drain auger product reviews, visit

Seven Of The Most Common Mistakes With Fire Evacuation Drills

Firstly, there is insufficient advance planning for the fire drill. Best practice is to give at least three months notice of a fire evacuation drill to the responsible persons and to follow it up with two low key reminders to ensure business units or tenants are adequately prepared. If the fire drill to be as effective as possible, it is important that only a few key people know about it in advance. It is not unusual to see people, coats on, hot drink in hand, waiting in reception minutes before the evacuation begins, this just wastes everyone’s time.

Secondly, the current fire drill procedures are not reviewed. Are the current fire procedures relevant and up to date? You should consider whether anything has changed, for example evacuation routes, number of employees or risk assessment findings. If necessary, revise and reissue your procedures well in advance of the fire drill. It will also help with the ongoing provision of information to staff and others.

Thirdly, too many people are informed about the planned drill. Liaise with the people who really need to know the fire drill date. Between you, set one date that will minimize the inconvenience for the organisation. Once it has been agreed, the date should only be moved in exceptional circumstances. If the date and time are changed more than twice then it is likely to never to happen.

The fourth mistake is, failure to have Personal Emergency Evacuation Plans (PEEPs) in place. Personal Emergency Evacuation Plans (PEEPs) are essential. These are produced for those people who may require assistance with evacuation such as those with sight or mobility impairments. It is important that the evacuation drill thoroughly challenges the PEEP you have in place and the nominated employees for whom you have to provide safety assistance. To prevent additional pain or discomfort to any person affected, you may ask them to work from home on the day of the fire drill and nominate an able bodied person to stand in for them to test the PEEP. It is important that you should not allow for anyone to remain in the building during the fire drill.

The fifth mistake is, not treating a fire evacuation drill as an audit. When planning or improving your fire drill, the key is to see it as an audit. There need to be objectives, a method, records and reviews. The fire drill is not only a test of the evacuation strategy, but also a test of the effectiveness of those with special responsibilities, such as the fire wardens.

For this reason it is better that as few people as possible are aware of the impending fire drill. A fire warden must be able to carry out their responsibilities whether it is a drill, a false alarm or a real fire.

Not recording the outcome can be the sixth mistake during the fire drill. After the fire drill, you should have observed and recorded the following times:

  • start time
  • each floor or area confirmed as clear
  • successful grounding of all lifts
  • overall completion of the drill
  • minutes and seconds for full evacuation
  • any other observations

The drill should have created no more than 15 to 30 minutes of minor inconvenience. It is a small price to pay to help you avoid become part of the fire statistics.

The final and seventh mistake is, not giving feedback to everyone involved. As soon as possible after the fire drill you should review the performance of the evacuation. This should involve fire wardens, security personnel, tenant representatives and other affected parties. Ensure that comments cover both the positives and the areas for improvement. Where there are improvements identified the necessary action must be taken immediately but it should also be considered in reviewing your procedure when planning your next fire drill.

Publicise the post-evacuation report to everyone involved and keep the findings under regular review. Take the opportunity to thank everyone involved and remind them of the importance of their continued support. If you need help with planning or managing your fire evacuation drills it is available – you just need to ask.