Building of a Shed

To build a shed of “light version” you will need the following materials: timber 100×100, boards 25 mm of thickness, eaves board with cross-section of 150×150 mm; ruberoid; roofing slate, nails of 70, 100 and 200 mm long, staples, bricks. To build a more solid shed you will also need reinforcement rods or bar mat reinforcement, concrete, cement (for slab base), crushed stone, gravel and boards of far higher quality /in this topic we will not consider “solid” building of a shed/.

A base for a not solid shed is usually of post footing type, on not big stilts. For a light shed along the perimeter of the construction not high stubs are laid. They should protect the sole timber frame from damp. It is not good to put wooden parts directly on the ground. A layout of hydro isolation is laid on the stubs, and after that timber is put – the sole frame. A post foot base can be done.

More often a shed structure is just a frame of parallel bars, bind with wood. Uncommonly – walls totally bricked. To make it steady when building a shed of brick a few rows might be laid out first and then a wooden frame might be set on it.

Two – three rows of brick are laid on the concrete plate – a low-rise soc le is made. For wooden planks of the future shed it is important to create special conditions so that after rains they would get dry quickly and would not come in contact with wet water absorbing materials (e.g. brick). Therefore in between the last row of the soc le and the sole timber of the frame a lay of hydro isolation is put. In order that the timber held steadily, as early as building the soc le of brick, every 1.5 – 2 meters T-shaped anchor pins are inserted into the soc le. They would squeese by the bricks to the plate, and the sole timber therefore would tightly bind with the basement.

In the timber which would be a part of the lowest frame holes are drilled for anchor pins. To the side that would contact to the bricks, a lay of hydro isolation is put. The timber is put on the socle and pins are inserted. Accuracy when setting the frame is checked with the help of builder’s level and a lath.

Depending on the dimensions of the construction to the lowest frame appropriate quantity of posts should be set with 1.5 meters interval.

When all posts would be settled by shores in strictly vertical position you can start constructing the upper frame. It is made of broads and nailed edgeways inserting into the posts. Parallel bars shouldn’t be inserted into the posts, but fasten by a steady building fixing fittings. Non-porosity of the wood will not be broken, and the conjunction will be quite hard and strong. On the front and back sides of the shed the ends of the upper frame can be released to 200-300 mm.

Any kind of wood is solidly changing in its dimensions depending on the air moisture. It widens (when swelling of dampness) or shrinks (when drying). All these changes directly influence the appearance of the shed.

If horizontal lining chosen then the water would run out worse and the boards would stay wet longer time. One more factor is not in favor of horizontal lining – it is not resistant, i.e. it should be itself hold firmly with the help of solid posts, and you will need very many posts for such lining.

Vertical dispositions of broads in the walls lining is more reasonable and convenient. Moisture from them runs of itself. For widening and shrinkage a small space should be left between the boards. Each board of the lining nailed to the upper and lower frames is itself resistant post. The wall of the shed, thus, is itself entire resistant post.

If in the shed windows or ventilation holes are needed, a space is left for them. In between of two posts space a door frame is inserted in which a door is hung later.

Interior decoration of the walls depends on the purpose of the shed. If cold proof is needed then the frame infill with the insulant, and additionally also upholster inside. If the shed is used just for household purposes, the walls are left just single-thickness.

The roof of a simple little shed, as a rule, slightly sloping or lean-to with small angle of slope. The roof is better to strengthen beforehand so that the roofing material would not sag. It is possible to secure the roof timbers by inserting into the frame additional cross-beams on which the roof timbers would bear against. The distance between the roof timbers, better to leave not more than 50-75 sm. If roofing materials are soft, the lath under such roof is made blind. The shed is possible to cover with forge iron or with modern materials (fiberglass, polycarbonate). Building of a shed is a complex process, but challenging. Good luck!