Before you start winding the hair, you need to separate the hair into manageable sections. This will make the hair easier to manage and looks professional. Sectioning the hair makes the rest of the perming process easier and quicker. After shampooing and towel drying the client’s hair, comb the hair to eliminate any knots or tangles. Ensure you have all the perming tools handy.
There are three different sectioning patterns.
1. Six Section
2. Brick
3. Directional
Six Section
The Six Sectioning pattern divides the head into six sections Divide the hair into two sections, front (4,6,5) and back (3,1,2). Divide the front section just above the middle of the eyebrow, to give a middle (6) and two sides (4 and 5).
The middle section (6) should not be any wider than the curler. Now divide the back section the same, to give a middle (1) and two sides (3 and 2).
Brick Winding
Brick winding is when the perm curlers are positioned in a brickwork pattern. This winding technique prevents any gaps in the hair, so you will not have any partings. Brick winding is ideal for short fine hair and should be started at the front of the head.
Directional
Directional winding is when the hair is wound in a certain direction. It will help create a flow in the direction the client wants. It is perfect for clients who want a parting.
Winding Technique
After placing the hair into the required sectioning you will need to wind the hair.
·Hair should be kept damp.
·Take a small sub-section of hair, smaller length and thickness of a curler.
·The width of the section should be inside the width of the curler.
·Comb the hair upwards, this will cause root lift.
·Hold hair evenly and tight.
·The curler should be at 90 degrees angle from the head shape.
·Put an end paper on the ends of the hair; if you don’t the ends will look frizzy at the end of the perm.
·The end paper helps make the winding process easier.
·Wind the hair down slowly, keeping the hair evenly tight.
·Guide the hair ends round the curler with tail comb. If the ends do not go under the curler. The hair can become “fish-hooked” and frizzy.
·Keep the curler level.
·The curler should be in the centre of the sub-section.
·Secure the curler by fastening the rubber bond or clip.
·The curler should sit on it’s base and not obstruct the next curler’s positioning.
·There should be no gaps between the curlers.
·If using a band rubber, be careful of placing it to close to the root area, as this can cause a rubber mark on the hair.