The method I usually use is to use a 1 in. x 2 in. (Actually measuring ¾ in. Thick and 1 ¾ in. Wide) wooden board that is custom-cut to the desired length. I usually paint the board before attaching the shade so the board matches the nearby woodwork (I really hate painting, but I find that the end result is worth the extra effort it takes). I usually cover this board with matching fabric from the window shade that I am hanging for a more professional look.
For a custom finish, cover all the sides and ends of the board by stapling sewing fabric around it. This makes any window covering look attractive when the board will be visible, as it would be on the outside of a window frame. But keep in mind that shades can also be hung inside a window frame so that the front of the shade is flush with the frame.
You can also hang a shade on a standard C-shaped curtain rod or on a rod designed especially for shades.
To mount a window shade on a wooden board, have:
• a 1-in. X 2-in. board, cut to a length that equals the finished width of the shade;
• a staple gun;
• two angle irons or L-shaped brackets (if your shade is wider than 2 feet, you will need three or more);
• a screwdriver;
• one large screw eye for the wall and several small screw eyes for the board to act as guides for the cords; and
• wall screws appropriate for your wall construction (wall mollies or toggles may be needed along with a drill).
Instead of stapling, you can use a hook – and – loop tape fastener to attach the shade to the board. However, if you prefer the shade mounted on the inside of the window, place the angle irons at the board ends and screw them into the side wall. For a little added support, use screws through the board and window-frame ceiling.
Standard C-shaped curtain rods are most appropriate for shades that are shirred across the top so they hide the rod returns. Select a rod with a shallow return on 2 ½ in. to 3 ½ in. The rod comes with wall brackets but you must purchase the cord guides for the rod separately.
The shade is usually attached to the C-rod with hook – and – loop tape fasteners. A special type of shirring tape used at the top of the shade already has the looped side of the tape fastener attached to one side of the shirring tape; the hook side of the tape fastener is then attached to the front of the rod.
For shades designed with vertical gathers, use shirring tape with rings or shirring tape without rings. For shades that are flat when lowered, use a roman shade tape with only rings attached.
I'm sure that we are all aware that there is a special rod that is made specifically for mounting window shades above the window frame or on the frame. This consists of a straight rod without returns and is mounted about 1 in. out from the wall. The rod is custom-cut to the needed length and is finished on each end with end stops. The face of the rod has the hook side of a fastener tape already attached. Also included with the rod (usually) is a bottom rod for weighting down the bottom of the shade, wall brackets, cord, several cord guides for the individual rows of cord, and a weighted cap to secure all the cord ends together; a multiple-cord guide replaces the large screw-eye used above and is installed just inside the end stop on the side where the cords will be pulled.
Years ago, when renting a house, I discovered that they had simply glued the top valance of the window coverings to the rod. Believe me; this is not appropriate for laundering and proper hanging reasons. For your sake, do not even consider using glue when hanging any window coverings!