How To Burn Excess Fat And Keep It Off

How many diets have you tried? I take it they are not working well are they? Are you looking to get rid of excess fat for good?

Then you are gonna have to quit going up and down on these roller coaster diets. In order to get rid of excess fat, you are gonna need to change your life.

You will need to make a lifestyle change, not a diet. Sorry, but there is no miracle cure here. You will need to make changes for the better.

You will have to start eating better, more nutritionally. Give your body the nutrients it needs. Eat more proteins, carbohydrates and fat. Yes, eating the right kinda of fats will help you lose excess fat.

If you are gonna cut calories, only cut about 15 to 20%. You cut out to many calories and your body will go into survival mode. You will quit burning fat and start losing muscle if you cut way to many calories.

Try eating 5 to 7 small meals a day, It helps boost your metabolism. Boosting your metabolism will help burn excess fat. Keep your calorie intake where it should be, just spread it out and eat 5 to 7 times a day. Make sure to eat more protein with your meals. Eat less carbohydrates towards the end of the day.

Weight training will also boost your metabolism. Lean Muscle is an active tissue, even at rest, that burns fat. Building lean muscle even helps burn excess fat while you are sleeping.

Exercise daily helps burn excess fat. Strength training exercises and cardio, just do not do to much cardio. Your body will get used to the cardio and again go into survival mode, and quit burning fat and eat away at your muscles. If you are doing an hour of cardio now, then you are not burning fat, you are eating away at muscle.

Try doing your cardio in short bursts. 5 minutes at high intensity, then 20 minutes at medium. Make sure you get 7 to 8 hours of good sleep. Take as much stress out of your life as you can. Watch the alcohol take also. Alcohol is made from sugar and sugar is fat.

If you want to get rid of excess fat, you will have to make these changes in your life.

This is not a diet, this is a lifestyle change.

Are you ready for it?

Tips For Buying Your Next Swift Rifle Scope

When you're ready to buy your next rifle scope it's important to consider that Swift offer a wide variety of scopes that are ideal for many different types of hunting and shooting. One of the most popular scopes that Swift offer, and one that is proving very popular with hunters everywhere, is the Swift 676 Premier series of scope. This scope has tons of features but among the best of these are a 4-12×40 adjustable objective lens as well as speed focus. Not only that but this scopes is also waterproof and multi-coated – making it extremely tough.

One of the best things about this scope is that it is extremely adaptable, making it excellent for individuals who want to use it to hunt small game and varmints. Air rifle owners will also find that it is extremely suitable for this type of purpose as well. With the speed focus, you are able to set a gauge on your target quickly and easily while the parallax adjustment gives you plenty of options from 10 yards all the way to infinity.

Another excellent Swift rifle scope is the Swift 672M. The features of thie scope that are most appealing are the speed focus and 6-18×50 lens. Like the Premier Series, this scope is also multi-coated and waterproof. Target shooters and those who are interested in hunting varmints and small game alike will appreciate this scope with its optimum focusing ability at any of the power settings as well as an adjustable objective.

A Swift scope specifically designed for field target shooting is the Swift 677M. This model features a speed focus as well as a tube body that is longer than usual and allows for additional eye relief adjustment for airguns or air rifles with a longer action. This model is suitable for use in any medium power air rifle, delivering great focusing ability with a waterproof guarantee – top stuff!

The Swift 678M has become a favorite of many target shooters due to the accuracy and close range this model consistently delivers. Serious hunters also enjoy the fact that the 678M offers accurate range finding capabilities along with clear optics. A removable sunshade is offered, making this model even more convenient and flexible than most.

If you're using a high recoil spring air rifle then you'll love the Swift 686M. This scope was designed specifically for high recoil usage. With a compact size of 12.5 "this model works well on spring rifles, making recoil level an issue of the past. The Swift 688M works well in a variety of situations including target shooting and small game hunting. lineup, this model comes with the Speed ​​Focus feature as well as being multi-coated.

So as you can see Swift has something to offer every type of shooter and hunter out there. Put Swift on your shopping list – you will not be sorry.

The Complete Strut Assembly

The Complete Strut Assembly is designed as a single unit, ready to install replacement for the existing strut assembly components of your vehicle. A Complete Strut Assembly includes all the components required for strut replacement in one fully assembled unit. These complete units feature a pre-assembled replacement bearing plate, upper and lower spring isolators, upper spring seat, coil spring, dust boot kit, and a nitrogen filled strut. The Strut Assembly is designed to not only save time on installation by eliminating the need for dis-assembly of the existing components and the required compression of the coil spring prior to installation but it also eliminates the requirement of special tools and allows for the safe and easy removal of the coil spring for Do it Yourselfers looking to save a few dollars on their auto repairs.

The struts basic function is to maintain the balance and safety of your car. Not only do they provide a more comfortable ride, they also play a significant role in the control and handling of your vehicle. If your struts are worn out or damaged your car will almost seem to bounce uncontrollably – this obviously makes for both an uncomfortable and potentially dangerous ride. While complete struts are not available for all makes and models there is good coverage on most of the popular cars on the road today. Most cars and trucks are equipped with struts in the front and shocks in the rear – although some vehicles do come equipped with struts in both the front and rear. It is important to the overall ride and safety of your vehicle that the struts be maintained and changed immediately if required. Even under normal driving conditions your car struts will typically wear out but there are many factors that may accelerate the rate of which the wear occurs, including but not limited to excessive driving on bumpy roads or on heavily salted roads. Another important consideration is the fact that worn out struts not only effect the comfort and ride of your vehicle they can also have a negative impact on safe braking.

A typical complete strut is direct fit and ready to install. Each unit is designed and tuned for vehicle specific applications. As previously noted, complete strut assemblies include a strut, coil spring (when applicable), strut mount, boot, bumper kit, spring seat and isolator. They are painted in rust resistant, powder coated paint and come with a neoprene dust boot. The interior strut is nitrogen gas charged.

The revolutionary design of the Strut Assembly allows for the safe removal and replacement the complete Strut Assembly in one piece. Do the complete job with the right auto part the first time.

Complete Strut Assemblies are ready to install right out of the box and include all the components required for strut replacement in a single, fully assembled unit. This new auto part was extremely designed with the Do It Yourselfer in mind.

There has been much advancement in the Auto Parts industry over the last ten to fifteen years. In my opinion the development and availability of the Complete Strut is a significant step forward in auto parts ingenuity – it is a logical design that meets the demands of the consumer.

Remember, complete struts should always be replaced in pairs (front or rear). This reduces the overall time required to replace two struts at different times. Another consideration – in most cases, when one strut fails, the other is close behind.

Painting – Tips and Tricks

Painting in your home means different types of paint for different surfaces. The walls require an indoor paint. There are also specific versions for wooden porches, concrete, metal and plastic surfaces. These come into play when wanting to paint that rusted metal railing on the porch or the concrete wall in the basement. Just as you need the right paint, you need the right application tool. This could have a spray, multiple brushes, rollers, rags, or any other items such as feather dusters or wallpaper to produce decorative designs. So the first key step is to purchase the correct supplies.

When painting with a roller, start with a clean one. Old paint can cause markings on the wall whether from the old paint color or from designs left in the new paint. You should move in a "W" shape to start and then fill in with a straight up and down motion. If the ceiling or the other walls are going to be a different color than what you are painting then be sure to use painter's tape to seal off the edges as well as the edges of the window and door frames. Use a medium to small size brush to go back and paint the edges near the tape. If there are two of you then one can paint in the edges while the other uses the roller.

Problems that arise indoors on painted surfaces are things such as mildew or cracking. When dealing with mildew you must remove it completely from the painted surface. In order to do this you will need a mixture of 1/3 cup of powdered laundry detergent, c cup of bleach and a gallon of warm water. Using a rag dipped into the solution, scrub the mildew away. You may need to scrub rather hard. Take a clean rag and wipe away the remnants of the mixture. Once the area is dry you can apply a single coat of primer paint that is mildew resistant. After this is dry then you can begin painting over it with the original color.

Cracking, also known as alligatoring, occurs when one layer of paint is applied over the previous layer is not dry yet. Occasional this may happen if you place a type of paint over another and they are not compatible with each other. The simple way to solve this is to sand off the top layer of paint. Use a damp cloth to remove any remaining flakes and then repaint. You may need to put a different type of undercoat on first and then paint the top layer. Whatever you do, be sure that the previous layer is completely dry before painting the final coat.

One last tip is how to keep paint from dripping when you are painting the ceiling. Before starting make sure that furniture and light fixtures have been removed from the room, drop cloths are in place and the ceiling has been sanded and / or wiped down. Do not use a lot of paint. Following a straight line with the roller and using a ceiling paint will help to reduce splatter and dripping possibilities.

Large Crystal Chandeliers Enhance Large Rooms

You have probably seen large crystal chandeliers in hotel lobbies, museums, and churches but many homes are also decorated with large chandeliers. Anywhere you have a high ceiling may be a great place to hang a prominant light fixture. Of course, you'll want to take the overall size of the room into account as well. For dining rooms, not only will the size of the room be a factor in determining the size of the chandelier you choose but how big your dining room table should be considered also.

There are still a lot of variances when it comes to large crystal chandeliers. There are those that are multi-tiered with many lights and there are also single tiered chandeliers of prominent size. There is no better way to emphasize a large foyer than with an elegant chandelier of the right proportions.

Often, large crystal chandeliers are on the agenda for home renovations. Many people like to replace existing light fixtures with a more elaborate chandelier that will not only enhance the look of the room but will provide more light than the previous fixture. Chandeliers are even used for large rooms that have a laid back back tone to them. You do not have to have a formal room in order to hang a chandelier in it as many of the designs today combine crystals with other materials such as wrought iron and other metals to provide a balance.

Some people automatically assume that the larger the chandelier, the higher the price will be but this is not necessarily true. Just like diamonds, crystals vary in price according to their grade and you do not have to purchase the finest crystals in the world to have a shimmering chandelier. In addition, some chandeliers only use crystals as accent pieces while the more elaborate and expensive large crystal chandeliers use far more crystals.

Do take care not to overpower your room with a chandelier that is too large for the room. If you choose a lighting fixture that is ornately designed, you may want your chandelier to be the focal point of the room and that is fine but you do not want your light fixture to overpower the room.

Whether you choose a contemporary model or a vintage piece from eras gone by, you can perform a lot of the legwork by searching online for a variety of large crystal chandeliers for your home.

DIY Projects With a Portable Concrete Mixer – A Step by Step Primer

If you are using a portable concrete mixer for the first time, here are a few tips. First, fill the drum with two gallons of water. Once the water has been added to the drum, add the first bag of concrete. For this step by step guide, we will be using two 80lb bags; enough to secure a standard size fence post into the ground.

Turn the portable concrete mixer on to full, and add the first bag of mix. It is most likely this will be a messy affair; so do not wear a tux, style your hair or make plans to rush out immediately after this job. Seriously though, you may find it helpful to cover your mouth and sometimes invest in a decent pair of goggles. The dust is not particularly dangerous of course, but it is irritating and can cause a nasty cough for a time.

Not all the mix will amalgamate with the water initially; This is where your shovel first comes into its own. Just give it a thorough mix to break up and solid blocks of concrete mix. Having completed this, it is time to do the same with second bag.

This time though, you can afford to take a little more time to add the mix, and incorporate it gently. Again, the shovel can be put to good use here, to achieve an oatmeal like consistency.

Use your eyes to judge the consistency, and add a little more water if you feel it necessary. Add it gradually though, to ensure it does not get too wet; although of course this can be rectified through adding a little more concrete mix.

Having completed the mix to the desired consistency, you can secure the fencepost. It is up to you how you do this of course; wherever with the tilting mechanism on the portable concrete mixer, or with your all important shovel.

The last things to do, is leave the portable concrete mixer as you received it. (It was hopefully clean!) Simply rinse the drum out with your hose, to ensure the concrete does not dry and effect performance of mix.

Marketing Your Printing Company Via the Elevator Speech

Website? Check. Website tuned? Check. Rent due? Check. Business rushing through the door? Um … not so much …

Unfortunately, "build it and they will come" only works for baseball movies. When it comes to business, it takes a lot more than a field of dreams to succeed. The truth is that when you're in business, you're in sales. And when you're in sales, that means at least one very imporant skill in need of mastering: developing your elevator speech. This applies to all business, including a printing company.

You've got to get out there and pound the pavement, and the phone lines, and the emails, and the social networking sites. You've got to let everyone know you're in business, what you do, how you do it, and how you do it better than anyone else.

This is what you absolutely, positively, must do: You've got to come with an 'elevator speech'. Ie, if you were on an elevator with a complete stranger and you had to sell them on your company before they got off, what would you say?

That's what you have to come up with, like it or not.

Your elevator speech should contain something called your 'unique selling proposition', your 'USP', as well. Working on this will help you refine your elevator speech. You must ask yourself, "What am I doing that distinguishes me from the competition?" "How am I better?" Whatever it is, make it your USP. If you can not come up with a USP, then you're just like everyone else.

And that's not good.

With a printing company it could be … "24 Hour Turnaround Times Guaranteed" … "Free Typesetting" … This will help you define yourself, and put you in better position to succeed. It will help you define the goals of your company, something that every employee should know about and strive to meet.

It should become you, and BE your company.

Taxi Etiquette – The Do’s and Don’ts Guide

First, remember not to run across the street trying to grab a taxi first when you are well aware that there has been someone waiting for that same taxi before you. This calls to mind the scene from Planes, Trains, and Automobiles where both main characters race down the street for the one available cab. You should wait your turn. If the weather is bad, you might want to share with a stranger one of the scarce taxis. When this occurs each of you will pay their own separate share of the fare.

When you are sharing a cab with a friend and are going in identical directions, the first person to get out of the taxi should chip in half of what the full fare will likely be including a tip. They shouldn’t try to play the part of the big spender by whipping out a $5 bill for a $2 ride. The person that is remaining for the rest of the trip should accept the cash. Trying to turn away the money at the last minute, although it seems like it’s a nice thing to do, it creates a feeling that the person is obliged to return the favor at some later date. Since you made an agreement to share the taxi you should both honor it by paying for your fair portion. This recognizes that you were both responsible for the cab and neither one of you was treating the other. If you want to take care of the full fare as a treat for your friend then you should do so before you get into the taxi and before the other person thinks that you will be sharing it. You can simply say “Can I drop you?” This means that regardless of whose location is closer, the other person will be dropped off first and you will be dropped off last and will take care of the full fare at your destination.

If there is a man and a woman taking a taxi together and the man gets to the door before the woman he should open the door for her. Though it is proper courtesy for a woman to get into the taxi or the back of a car first, this can be bent if the woman is wearing a skirt that is long or clothes that are hard to move around in she should get in last so she won’t have to slide all the way across the back seat. As far as directions go the man is usually the one to give them, but if a woman is the one who knows where both are going then she should simply tell the driver directly.

The Taxi Driver: Sometimes you will have a taxi driver that wants to chat with you when you don’t want to. Simply say “I’d rather not talk now.” If they keep rattling on about whatever it is they just have to talk about you can follow up in a more persuasive tone with a “I’m taking this taxi so that I can have some quiet time and relax.” A taxi driver that has his radio on at an uncomfortable level can be asked to turn it quieter, just not off completely. This is basically his place of business and if he likes to here music at his business, so be it. Tip the taxi driver 15-20% unless he doesn’t follow the route you asked. At this point leaving no tip is your only recourse as their is no one to complain to in the moment.

How to Stop Your Stairs From Squeaking

What makes stairs squeak? The noise usually comes from loose treads (the surface of the steps that you walk on) or risers (upright boards that join the treads together). This is normally due to natural shrinkage of the wooden stair components over time. The adhesive that was originally used to bind the risers and treads together might also have failed.

There are several methods of tightening up the steps to reduce or eliminate the creaking. The best way is to work from underneath the staircase, as the results won’t show and you can usually make a stronger repair. If this is not possible you will have to tackle the problem from the other side.

Repairing squeaky stairs from above

There are three main methods of tightening up loose stair parts:

1. Screw the treads down

The best way of fastening the treads securely to the risers is by screwing them down. Three screws per tread is normally enough. Drill pilot holes through the tread in line with the riser, ideally using No.8 x 38mm countersunk screws, then drive in the screws below the surface of the tread. If there is no stair carpet to hide blemishes, conceal the screws with matching wood filler.

2. Nail down loose treads

A simple repair is to hammer nails into the edge of the tread at a central point where it connects with the riser. For the best grip, insert the nails in pairs so that they are angled towards each other over the creaky spot. Drill pilot holes first to avoid splitting the wood, then drive the nails below the surface and cover with wood filler.

3. Glue on a moulding

Try adding a piece of quadrant moulding (shaped to form a quarter circle) to give the tread extra support. You can secure it to the top or bottom of the riser, or both. For the best results, stick the moulding to both the tread and the riser. This method is more aesthetically pleasing than using screws or nails – however, if your stairs are uncarpeted you will have to add the mouldings to every step, not just the creaky ones, so that they all look the same.

Repairing squeaky stairs from below

If you can get underneath the staircase you may be able to carry out more effective repairs – but remember to wear eye protection as you will spend a lot of time looking upwards. There are various options:

1. Insert blocks or brackets

A good way of strengthening the join between tread and riser is to use small triangular wooden blocks, known as glue blocks. Position a block in each corner of the step under the tread and against the riser, and glue into place. Secure with screws – drive two upwards, into the tread, and two horizontally, into the riser. If possible, get a helper to stand on the tread while you drive in the screws.

Alternatively you can secure small rectangular blocks of wood, known as string blocks, to the corners of the steps to fasten the treads to the strings (supporting boards that run along the side of the stairs). If necessary, you can use these in addition to the glue blocks for extra strength and rigidity.

2. Replace wedges

Make sure that the wooden wedges – which are used to lock the stair treads and risers into their matching slots – haven’t fallen out or begun to slip. Replace any missing or damaged wedges and glue loose ones back into place before tapping them firmly home with a mallet.

Small ‘slip’ wedges, or shims, are another effective way of tightening the joints between risers and treads. The wedges should be around 30mm long and 3mm thick, tapering down to a point. Glue into place, then use a sharp chisel to shave off any protruding ends.

Which Stair Gate is the Best?

Our hearts leap with pride and joy as our little one learns to crawl for the first time. We sit and stare in wonderment as they take their first independent steps. Then if we are not prepared it can suddenly dawn on us that we have so little control over where they decide they want to explore!

Where should I install gates?

Stair gates are designed to assist parents and carers in taking control over the movements of their little one. We can prevent access to the potentially dangerous areas of the home, particularly the stairs.

As an absolute minimum, parents should install a stair gate at the top and bottom of each flight of stairs. As young children are learning their first independent movements, they are top heavy; the center of balance is in the top half of their body. This leaves a child particularly prone to falling backwards as they attempt to stand up straight. At floor level this will result in little more than a 'whoopsadaisy' from mum, a quick kiss better and we're off trying that new move again. If a child is left unsupervised to climb unprotected stairs the idea of ​​them falling back does not bear thinking about.

The second point to consider is; which areas of your home are unsuitable for young children? The kitchen is the single most dangerous room in the house for a young toddler. Until your child is old enough to be taught and understand the important rules needed to stay safe in the kitchen, if it is possible to use baby gates to prevent access to the kitchen, use them.

Make a plan. Spotting the areas of potential danger first and restricting access is the key to creating a safe environment. Each home is different so there is no set solution. One home may have an open door that leads to a flight of stairs to the basement; another the newly refurbished dining room with sharp edges on the corner of the dining table; and another the open access to the office area with all the loose cables and electrical equipment. For the first few months while your child is learning rules of behavior which will eventually lead them to their own danger signs and understand the meaning of the word 'no', make sure they can not gain access to any area you are not sure is 100% safe.

Once you have identified the areas of your home you would like to install stair gates, however narrow, wide or irregular the gap is, there is a stair gate available to solve the problem. Stair gates have now been designed to be installed in a variety of different ways: in a straight line and auto close after use; to be mounted diagonally if you do not have opposition fixing points; even multi panel configurations which can go around an open staircase or section off a corner of the room if required.

Purchasing a stair gate no longer means turning your once perfectly presented ideal homes into a mini prison. Manufacturers of stair gates have now woken up to the reality that despite safety is the primary concern of any parent when choosing a gate, a color or wooden finish that compliments their home interior is also desired. Stair gates are now available in: white, silver, black, beechwood, mahogany, oak, even gum tree.

Pressure Fit or Screw Fit?

Pressure fitted stair gates are the most popular type of stair gate. With a pressure fitted gate there is no need to test your DIY skills or to drill holes into your walls or banister posts. Many pressure fit gates have an auto-close / auto-shut facility which negates the possibility of a gate being left open due to forgetfulness. Other pressure fitted gates come with an indicator built into the gate which is visually displays when a gate is installed correctly and alerts you to a gate being nudged out of alignment.

It is important to note that all pressure fitted gates have a trip bar. This is the bar that runs along the bottom of the gate and sits on the floor when the gate is mounted. In most situations this is not an issue as it is something you get used to very quickly. However, to have a trip bar at the top of a flight of stairs; especially when you will be carrying your baby up and down the stairs; is a big safety hazard and should be avoided if possible. Some manufacturers sell additional step plates to convert the trip bar into a slight ramp, which is definitely advisable if you are to install pressure fitted gates.

The main advantage of a screw fitted gate is that it will be installed without a trip bar. The gate will sit on screw fittings and open much like a barn door without the need for the horizontal bar to stay in place. Although both pressure fitted and screw fitted gates sold by reputable stores in the UK will all have been rigorously safety tested, the nature of a screw fitted gate is that it will provide that additional level of stability. Regardless of a screw fitted gate being knocked against or leaned on, once the fittings have been screwed into the wall, the gate should not move a millimetre and not need readjusting. Many screw fitted gates now come with quick release fittings. This enables parents or more commonly grandparents or carers to remove the gate when not in use, leaving only the small wall fittings in place. When the grandchildren come back for another weekend, you simply slot the gate back into the fittings.

When should I install them and for how long?

The simple rule for when install stair gates is the same for all areas of baby proofing; it is best to have everything installed before you need it, than frantically rush around trying to find the right safety products when your child is on the move. A typical age for most children to start independently moving is approximately six months. The amount of time you will need stair gates again depends on your child. As your child becomes completely confident in their walking ability, and as they have learned the lessons you have taught them regarding potential dangers, it is time to remove the gates.

Scaffold Safety – Frequently Asked Questions

By understanding the components to scaffold safety workers could actually prevent 4,500 injuries and 50 deaths every year. And can you guess what this would save the American employers? A whooping 90 million dollars in work days lost. If it is important to you to remain safe while using scaffolds at your work place or if you are a business owner and intend to keep your employees and money safe then it is vital to thoroughly understand scaffold safety. In this article we will examine and address some of the most frequently asked questions relating scaffold support, the plane of the scaffold, access and railing.

In what ways can I secure the scaffold?

Scaffolds require support in order to be secure. There are actually three main categories of scaffolds so in result there are three different types of support systems. The first is a suspended model in which it is suspended in the air by ropes or other resources from an overhead structure. The next type is a supported foundation that is made of one or more platforms with beams, poles, or frames. And the last grouping is aerial scaffolds. This type needs shackles in order to achieve scaffold safety and further prevent accidental disengage of the aerial lift.

What kind of plane do scaffolds require in order to be reliable?

It's essential that your scaffolds maintain the proper plane when seeking scaffold safety. If you do not retain the perfect level in your platform you have more than the possibility of creating hazards for yourself and your team. Having an uneven platform will cause workers to become off balance and fall off of the scaffold. Or objects could even slide from the platform running into the worker or striking someone below.

How should I examine the ladders on my scaffolds?

It is so important that in addition to inspecting your platforms you also perform upkeep on your points of access. Your ladders should be inspected prior to every use for scaffold safety. Remember that your scaffolds must be located in a place so that workers do not need to step more than 1 ft. from the ladder to the platform. Make sure that your way of access is free of oil spills or grease and do not use if there is any form of structural defect.

What are the correct measurements for guard rails?

In scaffold safety the last main component is guard rails. It is vital that they possess the correct measurements as well as being firmly secured. Scaffolds that are higher than five feet above a surface or any distance above a body of water must have railing. The top rail must be 42-45 inches high, midrail must be half way between the top rail and platform, and must consist of 2×4 lumbers, flat bar, or pipe.

In this article we have addressed a few different components In order to better understand scaffold safety procedures. By incorporating your new knowledge of scaffold support, the plane, access, and railing you will be more capable of keeping yourself and workers safe.

What's So Good About Alloc Laminate Flooring?

When it comes time to add that beautiful flooring to your home that you have always wanted, it is time to consider going with Alloc laminate flooring. This Swedish company produced the original glue-less flooring that has given to the industry a new standard of excellence. It has also given to the do-it-yourselfer an edge that makes it so much easier to put these beautiful floors in for themselves. Here are some reasons why you should consider the easy to install system of the Alloc laminate floors to enhance the beauty of your home or office.

No Glue

Each one of the boards that is used in the Alloc laminated flooring has a specially patented lock joint that firmly holds the boards together, giving you a very tight fit that leaves no spaces between the boards. In addition, the boards stay together and will continue to look beautiful long after they have been installed in your home.

Because of the tongue and groove interlocking pieces, absolutely no glue is needed. This eliminates a lot of mess, and no cleanup is needed afterwards, either. A precise aluminum joint that provides a great deal of endurance is strong enough for them to give you a lifetime warranty on some of their products. Other products are typically guaranteed for at least 25 years. This same joint system gives you a fit without unsightly spaces and keeps them that way.

Easier To Install

The purpose of Alloc laminated flooring was to make it much easier to install. Because of the ease with which it can be installed, people who have never put down wood flooring before can do it, all they need to do is to follow simple instructions. One of the intended plans of the manufacturers was to make a floor laying system easy enough that it could cut out about half the time it normally takes to install a floor.

Underlayment Attached

To further simplify the system, the company decided to attach the underlayment directly to the boards. This time saver feature helps you to get your new flooring in place as a one-day weekend project that you can walk on as soon as it is in place. As if that is not enough, you even have the ability to pick the floor up and move it to another room – if you should ever want to do that.

Long Lasting

The construction of each of the Alloc laminate flooring boards helps it to last a long time. The flooring boards, which are made by direct pressure, have a surface of melamine and aluminum oxide, which gives it excellent durability. Each board also has its edges impregnated with wax in order to make it moisture resistant and to quiet the steps of anyone walking on the floor.

For Home Or Commercial Use

Alloc has about 25 different laminate flooring styles and is the ideal choice for either your home or office. It also can be used in commercial places, too, and it certainly is sufficiently enough. With many so many styles available, you will easily be able to get the color and texture you want to match just about any need. The flooring is readily available in stores all over the country, and the features of the Alloc system are also sold by a number of sub-brands, too.

Spray Guns and Spraying For Lacquer

Dirt is the largest bugbear of spraying. Nozzles, tubes and liquids should be spotless; soak the parts in thinners and strain your lacquers through a single thickness of nylon stocking. Having carefully prepared your surface, damp all dust and sweep up thoroughly, then disturb it no more.

Practice spraying on a large piece of flat panel until you have a flat fan of spray, which will coat an area 35-45cm (15-18in.) Wide with the gun held 20-30cm (8-12in.) From the surface at 90 ° to it. It is easier to spray a vertical surface than a horizontal one. Wait a minute to see the effect on your test surface, because lacquer takes some time to run if it is going to. Thin it 10 per cent and get the right consistency by timing it through a viscosity cup. The liquid should flow in a continuous stream off the end of a stick held at 45 °.

Spraying techniques are illustrated opposition. Never trigger or stop the gun while it is pointing at the surface. Start the spray, and stop it, off the panel at the beginning and end of your strokes. Do internal corners in one smooth movement; external corners should have one stroke each side and one at a 45 ° angle.

Pre-catalysed lacquers can be de-nibbed with 600 grit wet and dry paper and water, wiped and tack-ragged after 45-60 minutes, and are then ready for recoating. Acid-catalysed lacquers take longer, about three hours on average. Final coats should be steel wool and waxed, or rubbed with burnishing cream.

Damp in the air causes a milky bloom as the lacquer dries. Burnish it with abrasive cream or paste, or if that does not work strip and refinish. Spray will pick up moisture in a cold damp atmosphere and take it to the surface, where it mixes with the lacquer, causing pits and craters in the finish, with the same white bloom. The air must be dry and warm, but if it is too hot it will dry the lacquer too quickly.

Always clean the gun as if it was a surgical instrument. Dismantle it, soak all the parts in thinners and blow thinners through the gun until there is not a trace of lacquer in the spray.

Finally, take elbow safety precautions. Fine spray vapors are highly volatile, and extremely unpleasant to inhale; always wear a face mask, have a good extraction system, or do the work outside. Just having the windows open is not nearly enough.

Cleaning Your Own Carpeting

Cleaning your own carpet can be a great way to save money. If not done properly however you can end up with quite a mess. This article will give you some tips on using a carpet cleaning rental on your home's carpets.

The first thing you need to do is find a good carpet cleaning machine. You can find them at most home improvement and grocery stores. Look for one in good condition that is not too beat up or old. The older the machine, the maker the vacuum and water pump probably is. Find a machine in good condition and also purchase the carpet cleaning shampoo that is sold with the machines. Do not even think about using dish soap or any other homemade concoction.

The first step, once you get the machine home is to thoroughly pre-vacuum your carpet. Do not overlook this step because soil is much easier to remove when it is dry. Go over the carpet in several different directions, taking your time.

The next step is where I will differ from the directions on the carpet cleaning machine. They usually want you to fill the machine with a shampoo solution. This means that you are rinsing with the solution and you will leave a lot of residual. Instead, mix the cleaning solution in a separate pump-up sprayer. You can find one gallon garden sprayers at any home improvement store. Now spray the carpet evenly with the cleaner. Do not over wet the carpet, spray the solution evenly and then let it stay for 5 to 10 minutes. Dwell time will allow the solution to break down and absorb the soils.

Next, fill the carpet cleaning machine with plain warm water. After letting the solution dwell, you will make a pass over the carpeting to rinse the cleaning solution out. If your carpet is heavily soiled or you used a lot of cleaning solution, you may need to make two passes over the carpet. Your goal here is to remove as much of the cleaner as possible in order to leave the least amount of residue.

Finally it is time to dry your carpets. The quicker you get them dry, the less likely it is that spots will return and the less likely you are to get water marks. Turn your ceiling fans on and get out any portable fans you have and aim them at the carpet. If it is a nice dry day, open your windows or doors. The more airflow you get to your room the better.

Well, that's it. That's all there is to it. Just remember to take your time and do not take shortcuts. Follow these simple steps and you can easily clean your own carpet.

Making Copper Sheet Fence Post Caps

Imagine this: You’re about to build yourself a nice fence that’s about twenty-five posts long and you decide to both decorate and protect it from natural rotting with some copper post caps. After all, you’ve seen what happening when you don’t protect the top of the fence post with a cap. However, when you go to the store, you realize that at twenty five bucks a cap, this project suddenly skyrockets in expense! Why not save yourself some money and create these easy-to-make copper sheet caps on your own?

To start, you’ll need a scrap piece of 4×4 fence post (or 6×6) about three feet long, a circular saw to create the form on the top of the scrap post, a wooden mallet (preferably hardwood with a 3 inch diameter) to hammer the sheet metal around the form, the copper sheet itself and a pair of metal cutters. The recommended copper sheet is a soft temper, .021 inch thick (also known as 24 gauge or 16oz copper sheet).

First, you will want to figure out what shape you want the post cap to be. A basic triangular tip is a good choice. So, using the circular saw, cut the form (your piece of scrap post) to the desired shape.

Second, you might have to experiment, but cut the copper to the correct size for your particular post cap design. I might recommend using some scrap metal to experiment instead of valuable copper sheet. But it’s your choice.

Once you have your cutout, you can anneal the copper sheet to make it more pliable. However, the annealing is completely optional and not entirely necessary due to the copper sheet already being quite soft. Nevertheless, annealing is simply heating the copper sheet for an extended period of time, usually until it is glowing, and then allowing it to cool slowly. This heating can be performed with a common blowtorch.

Next, no matter if you choose to anneal or not, use the mallet to bend the copper around the form. A good technique for working the copper sheet is to pound the mallet in the way you want the metal to bend. This will work best if you can draw the mallet directly towards yourself while hammering. This is when you will want to have your safety glasses firmly in place protecting your eyes. Also, you may want to consider putting hole in the cap for the securing nail.

Finally, to add a nice shine to the cap, apply some sealant to keep the it bright and corrosion free. Or, let the cap age and patina naturally for the that classic look (I think this looks awesome).

And…Viola! You now have a beautiful fence post cap! On a final note, be sure to wear eye protection and all the necessary safety equipment while operating any potentially dangerous tools. Hope you enjoy your new post caps!