Fiberglass Chandeliers – Should You Get Them?

A chandelier is a ceiling-mounted lighting fixture with two or more arms bearing lights. Many modern lighting designs are often very ornate, and have dozens of lamps and complex arrays of glass shapes to illuminate the room in many intricate patterns. Chandeliers may structurally, be much heavier than other ceiling light fixtures. Some also may require unique attachments to the ceiling and customized reinforced ceilings.

Many do not require special supports and can be directly attached to the electrical box like any other fixture. More complex and elaborate forms of chandelier were developed through the 18th and 19th centuries Towards the end of the 20th century, the chandelier is used more as a decorative focal point for a room and may not be the main source of light, as it is more commonly used to complement other forms of light in the room. .

Different Types

These elegant lighting fixtures can be made of many different metal finishes, such as bronze, brass, nickel, chrome, and silver. These lighting pieces can also be designed with fiberglass, which tend to be less expensive than chandeliers made of metal. What really sets contemporary chandeliers like these apart from fancier counterparts is the attention to shape, design, and function.

The lightweight weight of fiberglass has always made it a popular choice for as a material for making chandeliers, or its components. Fiberglass offers distinct advantages in a wide range of products; its reduced weight and maintenance make it attractive on architectural projects, and more industries are discovering the benefits of its versatility.

Chandeliers with Fiberglass parts are either gel-coated in their molds with a choice of flat, semi-gloss or high gloss color eliminating the need for painting. In corrosive environments, gel-coats are much more durable than most paints. Those with fiberglass materials can be manufactured in numerous finishes, textures and colors

Helpful Tips In Installing Fiberglass Chandeliers

Custom-made chandeliers with fiberglass components are an option, which will give you the finish you require. Many of these are beautifully and uniquely designed. These are durable lighting fixtures that help compliment a living or dining room, as they are also valued for the warm light they give off and the sparkle they add to a room.

The position of the chandelier is very important so that you get the full benefit from the light it provides. If you are installing one in your dining room, it should be installed precisely over the center of the table. Once you have found the perfect chandelier, whether it be made of brass, nickel, steel or fiberglass, you should now be able to sit back and enjoy the brilliant glow and radiance it provides to your home.

Fiberglass composites have made revolutionary inroads in almost every industry we know today. The inherent lightweight strength and flexible quality of composite products have made fiberglass the product of choice in manufacturing medical and lighting equipment, aviation industry parts, storage tank industries, and many other household items you may already be familiar with.

One of the attractive benefits of using fiberglass as a material for chandelier parts or for its structure, is that a manufacturer can tailor the material and resins to accommodate the expected usage of the fiberglass part.

http://goldenageusa.com – Golden Age USA

Wealth Begins With Labor

All wealth begins with labor. Gold, silver, and even diamonds are accepted from the earth, but the acquisition begins with a shovel. All wealth begins with labor! Power comes from wealth, but even power requires labor to set it in motion. Labor starts it all. If you think wealth is something you can inherit without working; you'll lose it even if you get it. It takes labor to keep wealth.

If you think wealth can be borrowed to purchase the labor of others, then you may miss the labor required to learn all the things the capitalist needs to know in order to employ labor in a profitable manner. If you skip this requirement, long term debt and poverty will likely be yours before licenses.

Just like real estate, the value of labor is all about location, location, location. The same labor of a fisherman may catch a boatload or nothing at all, depending upon the waters being fished. A shovel load of dirt from one spot on the beach might produce nothing but sand, while the next shovel might exceed a rare sea shell. On the beaches of Alaska, one man found a gold nugget weighing in at 186 Troy ounces, but without weight of his foot upon the shovel, that gold would never have been found.

The skill of labor is knowing where, when, and how to apply it. The one thing Adam Smith and Karl Marx would both agree on is that labor is the source of all wealth. All wealth springs from labor.

The labor theory of value probably first appeared in the writings of John Locke, the English philosopher during the 1600's. Locke acknowledged that resources occurring in nature, provided by God (placed by the labor of God) as common property for all. He argued that when a man took things from nature and reshaped them into products useful to humans, the mixture of labor with raw materials produces a product. Locke believed the products become an extension of the worker. He believed this extension to the person justifies the right to personal ownership of property. This became the cornerstone of capitalism.

Locke hinted that human labor is the unique factor that creates value in commodities, and that the value of any product is approximately equal to the amount of labor necessary to produce it. Labor today is more efficient than it was in Locke's day, and raw materials are more or less redundant depending upon the resource and the technology needed to unearth it. Today, the value of a commodity would have related to the labor required to replicate the commodity.

So a commodity more rare today would be worth what labor it takes to produce it under today's circumstance while less rare items would be relative to today's labor required.

Some modern economists deny the labor element to value, but they do it out of a desire to disagree with Karl Marx more than a clear understanding of labor. Some like to distinguish between labor and capital, but without labor capital is idle. Labor moves capital from a place where it can not be used to a place where it can be use. Labor pulls the trigger that sets capital in motion. Capital is, more times than not, the unconsumed savings of labor.

I've heard people say it was impossible to make a fortune working, but the people that talk this way never achieve the wealth they covet. Wealth can not be removed from the labor it takes to get it. Some labor is more productive than other labor. Everyone who ever earned a blister from hard work knows this. Labor can be intelligent or mindless. Everyone who ever put on a glove to prevent a blister knows this.

Adam Smith explained how labor is divided. He used a group of hunters as an example. A band of men can hunt large food animals more efficiently than a single person. It must have been obvious to these bands that some were better at making bows than using them, and some better at making points than shooting them. So it was that labor was divided, with those who make good points spending more time making the points while those better at shooting used the bows.

Smith explains that a single man might fashion two or three nails per day, but a small team of skilled men whose labor is divided properly may make thousands of nails per day. A person set on acquiring wealth today would do well to understand the nature of labor and its importance in the production of wealth. He should at once embrace the labor needed to acquire wealth and at the same time begin a study on how best to apply labor. The capitalist needs to know when, how and where to apply labor for the best results.

Additionally, the capitalist needs to know how to divide labor in the manner in which it returns the greatest reward.

The would-be capitalist without capital will need to expend whatever labor is necessary to accumulate savings sufficient to hire the labor of others more efficient than himself in such a way as to produce the wealth he desires. While spending his own labor, care should be taken that he observes efficiency and inefficiency. When he has savings enough to hire others, he might then purchase and apply the others labor more efficiently that the laborer would have done by him.

The application of another's labor is just another division of labor. It is still labor, even if it comes with the promise to gain more. It also comes with the risk of losing more. Once the inevitability of labor is recognized and appreciated in the process of wealth production, the next lesson to consider is how to transform labor into wealth.

How to Install a Personal Elevator

If you want to have your own personal elevator at home, you can reduce your costs by installing it yourself. However, you will have to ensure that your are complying with building laws and that you have the necessary skills and equipment for the construction. The personal elevator may be outside mounted so that there would be minimal changes to the current structure of your home if that makes sense for your particular installation.

The first thing to do when preparing to construct this personal hoist or elevator is to determine exactly how it will be used. This is to ensure that you really need it before you begin spending the money, time and effort for it. For example, if an elderly or physically challenged member of the household is capable of lifting himself or herself out of a wheelchair and onto a seat, then a stair lift, which is less costly, may be sufficient. And if there are no physically disabled or elderly members of the family and you simply want to use the personal elevator to help in lifting heavy objects to the upper floor, a dumbwaiter may be simpler and less expensive.

It is also vital to make sure that you can correctly interpret the diagrams that are found on the building plans. If not, it may be better to just contract the services of an expert builder because the installation of the elevator can be complicated and needs a certain degree of construction and engineering skill. If you are not sure that you have sufficient skills for the job, it would be advisable to obtain the services of a professional. The task of constructing home elevators is also very time consuming. Therefore, if you are quite busy, it may be prudent to leave this job to the expert builders.

However, when considering the costs that are involved in the installation of residential elevator, it may be helpful to realize that technological innovations have made the production of the different parts of these machines less expensive and more affordable. Moreover, the improved mobility that it provides to the physically challenged and elderly members of the household is priceless. Aside from this, the market value of your home will be greatly enhanced by the presence of the elevator. Adding an elevator to allow the expansion of the floor space through the addition of floors may also be more cost effective because increasing the home's footprint to attain the desired floor space may be more expensive.

You will then take pictures of your home, specifically the portion where you plan to install the personal elevator and then send copies to the different companies that produce materials and parts for self-install elevators. And when you have found a company that can provide you with the materials and parts, it is time to purchase the various tools that you will require to install the elevator, such as drills, Allen tools, wrenches and screwdrivers. You may then start to erect the structures for the elevator after the parts and materials have arrived.

The Most Attractive Breast Size

The answer to this question has convinced many women into thinking that they need breast implant surgery or some sort of breast enhancement. The quick answer is that all breast sizes are attractive, because the taste of men is so widely varying. What one man says is attractive, another will say is not. Mainstream media would have the world believe that bigger breasts win in any situation. While it may be true that many men prefer larger breasted women, there comes a point when it's too much. So what is the most attractive breast size.

It varies depending on which era you're in. For example in the Victorian Era women tied their chest up tight with a heavy-duty corset. They wanted to give the appearance of being flat-chested. In modern times you do not have to look far to see what Hollywood and advertising executives think is the most attractive breast size.

Biological reasons have even been cited as to why men prefer larger breasts. They say that on a reproducible level males will choose females based on their perceived ability to feed their children. Larger breasts equal larger depths of breast milk, so that argument would go. And if we use this type of ratione, a survival of the fittest situation would mean that women's breasts are evolving to be bigger and bigger, as larger breasted women would mate more than smaller breasted women. A quick look around reveals that breasts still come in all shapes and sizes, so this does not hold true.

But the real world usually does not have to say according to these biological, evolution-based theories about breast size and men's preference. There are guys that are "breast men" and guys who are "butt men". The latter prefer a woman with nicely shaped buttocks and would choose a nice shape on bottom over size on top. So the saying beauty is in the eye of the beholder exclusively applications in this instance.

When asked what breast size he likes most, Fred Durst from the alternative rock band Limp Bizkit, simply said "Real." In this case, he does not care what size they are, just as long as they have not been tampered with. This would build a case for not getting any kind of work done to your chest unless you have a very dire need. Many women have developed a complex about their breasts, and even though they look in the mirror and see inadequacy, in reality they have a very nice pair.

Searching online for the most attractive breast size is a futile effort. The most attractive breasts are attached to the most confident women, so rock what you have and you'll attract the man who loves what you've got.

Building Stairs With A Platform Or Landing

When Designing stairs with a platform or landing in the middle, a common mistake is to first build a landing at an arbitrary level, then design and build the upper and lower staircases. Ninety-five percent of the time this results in the upper and lower staircases having noticeably different geometry. By analyzing your entire staircase first, then building your platform at the correct level, you will end up with matching flights.

First of all, let me say that stair-building is one of the most complicated aspects of carpentry (or ironwork), so DON’T RUSH. Rushing usually results in poor results and wasted lumber.

In summary, here are the steps (no pun intended) …

DESIGN A PHANTOM SET OF STAIRS FOR THE ENTIRE RISE (IGNORING THE PLATFORM)

CALCULATE A Rise Per Step THAT MEETS LOCAL CODE (e.g. 7 1/8)

BUILD A PLATFORM AT ONE OF THE STEP LEVELS (e.g. 21 3/8)

DESIGN THE UPPER FLIGHT, USING THE SAME Rise Per Step AS THE PHANTOM STAIRCASE

DESIGN THE LOWER FLIGHT, USING THE SAME Rise Per Step AND Run Per Step AS THE UPPER STAIRCASE

NOW YOU HAVE TWO FLIGHTS WITH MATCHING GEOMETRY, MAKING A COMPOUND STAIRCASE

In greater detail …

Most importantly, you want the Rise Per Step for both the top and bottom flights to be the same. Your local building code probably requires this, and even regardless of code, the stairs will look and feel better if Rise Per Step, Run Per Step and all the other figures are the same for both flights.

In order to ensure that you have equal Rise Per Step on both flights, first design a phantom set of stairs using your total Overall Rise like you’re making one long set of stairs instead of breaking it in two. (You don’t really need to worry about the Overall Run at this point.) Take your Overall Rise and divide it by your local building code maximum Rise Per Step (7-1/2 inches is a common value.) This tells you the number of steps you will need. Since you can’t have a fraction of a step, round this number up to get an integer, then divided your Overall Rise by this new number to get your calculated Rise Per Step.

Here’s an example:

84.5 Overall Rise

7.5 Building Code Maximum Rise Per Step

divide 84.5 by 7.5 = 11.27

11.27 is the ideal number of steps

round up to 12 full steps

now divide 84.5 by 12

7.04 this is your calculated Rise Per Step

You can now build a platform or landing for your compound staircase at a multiple of 7.04 inches, and both the upper and lower flights will have the same Rise Per Step. For example, if you build the platform at 21.12 inches (3 x 7.04), it would be three steps up from the bottom. If you build it at 35.20 inches, it will be five steps from the bottom.

Now, since the upper flight usually has space constraints, and the lower flight usually doesn’t, design your upper flight first. Use the same process for the Upper Overall Rise and you should end up with the same Rise Per Step (7.04). Calculate your Run Per Step and make sure to include some overhang for the treads. (I’ve developed a staircase calculator for this at: http://www.Shalla.Net .) Now use these same Rise Per Step, Run Per Step, Tread Size, and Tread Overhang to design your lower flight. Your upper and lower flights will now have matching geometry.

The key point here is that you have to build your platform at the right level in order to have matching upper and lower flights.

Add Wrought Iron to Your Stairway

Having a nice stairway in your home is important because it is the first impression of what the upper level of your house is like. Using wrought iron in your stairway can make the statement that your upstairs is full of style and glamor. Wrought iron can be used in stairways for the railings and spindles as well as for wall décor going up the stairway including sconces and art.

Wrought iron railings and spindles come in a variety of shapes and styles, from formal and elegant to sleek and modern. You should choose a style that fits well with the existing fixtures and décor in your home. This will give your stairway and home a unified look.

Wall décor in a stairway is important since it is often the focal point of a stairway. Wrought iron sconces for lights or candles come in a wide variety of styles allowing you to achieve just the look you are going for. If you choose light sconces, they provide a great look in addition to being functional. Wrought iron wall art comes in a variety of sizes and styles and looks great in a stairway when it is matched to the railing and spindles.

If you are looking to remodel your stairway, consider using wrought iron. With the wide variety of styles available, you can choose railroads and spindles that will compliment your existing home fixtures and décor. Complete your look with wrought iron sconces and art, and you will have a stairway that guests will see as a grand entrance to your upstairs rooms.

The 3 Main Types of Scaffolding and What They Are Used For

If you’re in the construction field or are into any type of larger home improvements, then you will most likely need some sort of scaffolding set up at some point in your life. But that is certainly not the only reasons you would need scaffolding. There are many types of scaffolding. These consist of three main categories; suspended, supported, and aerial. After reading this informative article you will have a more in depth awareness of these three types of scaffolding.

Let’s discuss further what all these three types of scaffolding involve. Suspended scaffolding is when the scaffold is securely suspended by rope from the roof or top of a house or building. Suspended scaffolding is compiled of pulleys, levers, and switches. These allow you to lower yourself from the top of the building back to the bottom and vise versa.

The next sort of scaffolding is known as supported scaffolding. This type is one that is built from the ground upwards. It consists of lumber and poles to make a framed scaffold. You climb up a ladder to mount this type and work from the middle length of the scaffold called a platform. Supported scaffolding is one of the only types of scaffolding that allows you to either be grounded on supports or completely mobile if wheels are attached to the bottom of the supports.

The last category we’re going to become more acquainted with is called aerial lifts. Aerial lifts are actually mounted devices that have the capability to be lifted to other elevations and locations. This is so helpful to workers when they have a need for the scaffolding to be lifted to a completely different location. However, for this to be accomplished, this is one of the types of scaffolding that requires shackles to prevent them from being accidentally disengaged from the hook carrying the lift.

Now that you have read through this guide you have a better understanding of what you need when sorting through different types of scaffolding. If you’re washing windows on a tall fifty story building then it’s probably best to use some sort of suspended scaffolding set up. On the other hand, if you intend on constructing a house then it’s in your best interest to utilize the supported ground scaffolding. And if you need a source for moving the scaffold in the air then it’s recommended that you go with the aerial approach.

How to Lay Laminate Flooring

The modern option of laminate flooring has been an answer to the prayers of many. Not only does it look good but it is very affordable and easy to install. Such a combination is very rare and you should take advantage of this and learn how to lay laminate flooring. It is not complicated and when you follow steps provided, you will be very pleased you did it. The laminates floor comes in form of strips which are then installed on your floor. They look so similar to wood and they are a sure spice to your house. You begin the process at an exposed wall where you will work your way towards the other parallel wall. Therefore, you will not have the desired results when you start work from the middle.

On how to lay laminate flooring, you will learn that there is great importance to start with an underlayment or a padding which will ensure that the floor is comfortable to stand on. You must see before room for expansion for this padding especially around the edges. You will lay the boards or strips without gluing so that you can pay close attention to every row. To make the flooring stronger, avoid any joints between strips and this will also enhance the look at the end. You have the option of gluing the strips and the glue will be applied at the edges. You must realize that the underlay or the padding is not glued. Therefore the laminate flooring floats on top and is very strong and durable.

If you did not know how to lay laminate flooring, now you have a better idea and the next thing that is going to happen in the process will be to tap the strips into place to ensure every board fits perfectly in place. Then it will take approximately an hour for the glue to dry. When your work is complete, go over it and see whenever you have followed every instruction as provided. It is a really a fun process and you can help out a friend or better yet, you can lay your very own laminate floor. It is easy to take care of the floor and below are some of there tips that you will find very helpful.

You can pass information on how to lay laminate flooring to a friend. The simple things you can clean with include using vinegar and water which will ensure that all dirt is cleaned. Therefore, you need to avoid abrasives if you want your floor to remain new and beautiful. Avoid using very harsh agents like scouring powder, steel wool and others to clean. The best way to clean the floor is by using a soft damp cloth and you can be sure that your floor will be radiant and attractive at all times. If you want to get more information on laying laminate flooring, you can consult an expert near you or you can simply search for more information on the internet and you will find all you want to know about how to lay laminate flooring.

Uncovering the Ancient Glory of Vietnamese Lacquer Painting

Lacquer art has a century-old tradition and history. The sheer beauty of this traditional art form can be well ascribed to the immense efforts that go into the making of lacquer art piece. The lacquer was introduced by the Chinese for making various decorative items and handicrafts. Wooden structures of temples, communal houses, and pagodas were red-lacquered and trimmed with gold in the early centuries. Similarly, altars, pillows, panels etc were lacquered with brilliant sparkling colors.

Lacquer paintings shot to fame post 1930 when Vietnam artists were being taught the invaluable lessons on art. Combining the artistic geniuses of Manet, Degas, Monet, Pissarro and Renoir with their indigenous art forms, lacquer art reached the height of its glory.

Lacquer, in its raw form, is a clear sap derived from the bark of six species of trees grown in the North and South Vietnam. Fresh lacquer is whitish and turns brown when exposed to air. Colors in lacquer are obtained by mixing various substances like cinnabar for red or duck egg shells for white color. Some egg shells are even burned to obtain a brownish tinge.

Lacquer painting is a long and strenuous process; it may take months, sometimes even years depending on the technique used by the artist. The process involves application of layers of lacquer on a prepared wooden board. Each layer has to dry completely before a second layer application.

Vietnamese lacquer paintings have earned a good clientele in recent times where art connoisseurs from every corner of the world have shown great interest in this art form.

The Benefits of Safe Driving

Some of the benefits of driving safely are obvious (you are less likely to die). But some are a little less evident. Have you ever thought about the gas that you save by driving the speed limit? Or the incredible amount of money you will save on your car insurance? These things will save you a ton of money over your lifetime. Being a good driver is much more than just staying out of accidents.

Speed ​​limits have a couple of functions. They limit the speed on a freeway to a safe amount (theoretically), and they are optimized to improve fuel efficiency in cars. Driving the speed limit, which is slower than most people drive, will lower the amount of drag that is put on your car by the air. This allows your car to move freer through the air and get better gas mileage through better aerodynamics. If you couple this with properly inflating your tires to the recommended PSI and not running the air conditioner you are going to squeeze every MPG you can out of your car.

Safe driving can help prevent accidents. Obviously, not all accidents can be claimed, but you are going to reduce the chance that you are the cause of the accident. This is going to keep your insurance premiums dramatically lower. If you have already been in a car accident that you were at fault for you have seen what happens to your monthly payment. Safe driving also lowers the risk that you are doing something dumb and getting a ticket. Tickets will also increase your insurance premiums.

Drive smart, drive safe, and save a ton of money!

The Benefits Of Carpet Cleaning

Carpets are a highly popular flooring option for homes because they’re warm and soft and make the whole family feel welcome and at home. Clean carpets are central to this feeling, and vacuuming, even as frequently as once a week, isn’t enough to keep carpets truly clean through the wearing activities of the day. Regular home life demands a lot from carpets, and professional carpet cleaning is the best way to keep them in great condition. There are many benefits of carpet cleaning, not the least of which is that it contributes to the great feeling everyone gets from walking barefoot on freshly cleaned carpets. Call today for your personal, professional carpet cleaning consultation and let the experts show you how your home can seem new again through clean carpets.

There is a thought that professional carpet cleaning uses damaging chemicals, but this isn’t the case. Modern carpet cleaning methods, specifically hot water extraction, uses water heated to more than 200 degrees Fahrenheit to remove dirt and particles and clean the carpets. The pressurized water loosens stains, dirt and other mites, which is all removed through the industrial vacuuming equipment. Hot water extraction is also entirely soap free, safe for all carpets and, most importantly, is safe for kids, pets and the environment. There is no residue left behind and your carpets will feel healthy and pure. In addition, hot water extraction carpet cleaning is safe for all types of carpets, from shag to berber to carpets with decorative patterns. Modern carpet cleaning methods will not upset the delicate fibers of your carpets and will actually help them look new longer.

One of the main benefits of professional carpet cleaning is that it reduces the level of allergens in your home. Carpet attracts bits and pieces that come in from the windows, which fall from shoes or enter the home in any amount of ways. Carpet is almost like a filter because it keeps all those particles snug within its fibers. However, when kids and pets lay on the carpet they’re getting close to those sometimes harmful particles, and vacuuming can even bring them close to the carpet surface without removing them, causing allergy flare ups and irritations. Professional carpet cleaning thoroughly removes all of these particles for a clean and healthy floor you’ll feel good about letting your kids get close to.

The same particles that cause allergies in your family can also cause depreciation to your carpet fibers. Dirt, stains and microscopic materials can get wedged in your carpeting and wear the fibers down, especially in high traffic areas where particles are being stamped in more frequently. Eventually, those particles will cause visible wear in addition to a distinct roughness under bare feet, and in time the carpeting will need to be replaced. Stains have the same adverse effects and are highly visible, even after the application of store bought carpet cleaners. Professional carpet cleaning completely removes stains and dirt from your carpets and will extend the lifespan of your carpeting, keeping it looking new longer and saving you from having to replace it prematurely.

Homeowners today are just as interested in the environmental consequences of their actions as they are about the effects of the products they use, and professional carpet cleaning meets all expectations. The hot water extraction method accepted by professional carpet cleaners is eco friendly because it relies on extremely hot temperatures to loosen particles, remove stains and sanitize carpets. Even the conditioners, stain removers and protectors used in certain carpets are environmentally friendly, and wash away neatly. There is no residue left behind in your carpets and nothing polluting to the environment, so homeowners can relax knowing their clean carpets are not at the expense of the planet. Green carpet cleaning is a celebrated and highly effective home cleaning method that can be used on every carpet type, every home and for every family.

One of the greatest benefits of modern professional carpet cleaning methods is that they practically eliminate the drying period for all types of carpets, reducing it down to just one hour. With hot water extraction cleaning, the water and all of the particles and dirt with it are entirely removed because of the industrial suctioning equipment, so there’s nothing left behind. Not only does this give carpets the truest clean, it means carpets will be ready for furniture and regular life in no time. There’s also no risk of mold or mildew build up because there’s no dampness. Carpets are clean and fresh through and through, and will remain soft and fluffy for many months to come.

Cameron Mallet Putters, the RED X and Futura Phantom, and Two Limited Edition Cameron Models

This article will discuss several putter product lines offered by Scotty Cameron and Titleist. These will include the two lines of mallet putters, the RED X® series and the Futura Phantom, as well as two limited edition putters.

RED X® Mallet Putters

As is the case with many of Scotty Cameron's putters, the mallet head designs of this line are very sculptured looking and pleasing to the eye. There is at once a certain boldness in the designs but also a simplicity as well. One wonders if Cameron does not do sculpture on the side. The newest putters in this series, the Red X3 and the Red X5, are just being shipped to Titleist retailers as this article is being written in mid-September 2007. Both of these putters are filled from 303 stainless steel, and they have a black anodized sole plate as well as a glare resistant charcoal mist finish. Cameron has used this glare resistant finish on a number of his putter designs for 2007. All the mallet putters in the product line have a single alignment line. The differences between these two putters are that the Red X3 has a traditional shaft with a sh shaft offset obtained by a single bend in the shaft, and that the Red X5 has a full shaft offset and a plumbing neck. Both have the standard 4 degrees of loft and 71 degrees of lie angle, and they both come in lengths of 33, 34, and 35 inches. For left-handers, only the Red X3 is available in a 35 inch length.

The older members of this product line are the Red X and the Red X2, and there are a number of variations of these. There are belly putters for both models, called the Red X Mid and the Red X2 Mid, and there is a long length putter called the Red X2 Long. These putters were designed in 2003, and Cameron did a lot of research with different materials to obtain the best feel and sound possible at impact. The heads are made of stainless steel, and there is an additional face insert made of a different type of stainless steel, and the insert is given an elastomer border which helps give good feel and sound at impact. The difference between the Red X and the Red X2 is in the shaft configuration. The Red X has a single bend one shaft offset and the shaft connects to the putter head about half way between the center of the mallet head and the heel. There is no shaft offset on the Red X2, and the shaft connects to the mallet just behind the middle of the putter head. All the putters in the Red X line retail for $ 300.

Future Phantom Mallet Putters

There are two putters in this product line, the Mallet and the Mallet 2. The difference between the two is that the shaft connects to the mallet head at almost the center for the Mallet 2, whereas for the Mallet putter the shaft connects closer to the heel. There is no shaft offset for either putter. As the product line name represents, these putters have a very futuristic and stylish look to them. Behind the flat putter face is a stainless steel back plate that has a five-line alignment configuration. Behind that is a semicircular bar which gives the putter its mallet shape. It is obvious from simply looking at these putters that the weight has been redistributed to obtain a high moment of inertia, or MOI, which provides forgiveness on off-center hits. The putters come with the standard loft of 4 degrees and standard lie angle of 71 degrees, have no shaft offset, and are available in lengths of 34 and 35 inches. The Mallet 2 is only available in right-handed models. The materials used to produce the mallet heads are 661 aircraft aluminum with a stainless steel back weight, as indicated above. Both putters retail for $ 300.

Limited Edition Catalina Classic

This is a classic putter design with only about 2000 pieces produced. The head of the putter is made of carbon steel and is coated with the charcoal mist anti-glare finish which also increases the putter's durability. There is a single aiming line on the back center flange, and the grip is a soft stitched leather.

Teryllium Ten Limited Edition

Teryllium is a copper metal made from 12 different alloys, and it provides a soft feel and good sound due to the thick copper insert. Cameron released the first teryllium putters 10 years ago and is following up with an updated version. The sleek black look combined with the copper metal color, as well as the putter's shape, make it a really beautiful instrument. Soft hand stitched leather grips are standard.

The two mallet putter product lines offered by Cameron and Titleist, the RED X® series and the Future Phantom mallet putters, offer an exceptional range of choices for golfers who are sold on mallets. I have used a mallet for years because it let me hit solid putts on a consistent basis. For the golfer who has everything, the two limited edition lines provide unique putter choices as well.

Brick Repair Mortars

Brick repair mortars have improved over the years. Originally, all repairs were made using any color of mortar that was available. As this market grows, it has become necessary to match the new mortar to the original mortar around the home. This practice of brick restoration has been in use for nearly ten years. However, there are newer methods available which allow for more precise mortar matching. Now, you can match any mortar every time.

Twenty years ago, custom mortar matching was completely unheard of. In fact, ten years ago this idea was laughed at. All repairs were performed as side projects, and were not expected to match mortar colors. You can see evidence of this on nearly any old building on your local town square.

Over the past ten years, it has become more desired to have your mortar matched to the original mortars in a building simply because public awareness of this ability. However, many of the contractors in this market still laugh and think that custom mortars are simple marketing tactics and have proclaimed them too can match these mortars. With these contractors, custom mortar matching simply means that they will make an attempt to get the mortar close.

There are companies around that can and do match you mortars, but most of the companies are only getting close. The companies that can and do match your brick repair mortars are using certified mortar matching.

Certified mortar matches are lab analyzed matches. Samples are taken from the mortar joints of a project and sent into the lab. These mortar samples are tested for their general hardness and composition. Each color tone in the samples are identified and matched. This includes local contaminates that may be found in the mortar which change it texture or color.

After a formula is created to match the samples taken, the formula is physically tested and confirmed to match the samples taken. From these confirmed formulas, certified pre-mix mortars are created, and shipped out to be used. These pre-mix mortars are guaranteed to match the original mortar colors.

Make sure that your contractor is using certified mortar matches, and ensure that you are getting a job done right. These repairs are too costly to pay for poor mortar matching, and these certified mortars are available to everyone. You or your contractors have access to order certified mortar matches, and you do not have to settle for less.Be sure it is a certified mortar match.

Roofing Terminology

Knowing common roofing terminology will enable you as a homeowner to make an informed decision about roofing materials that are good matches for your home's style and the region in which you live. It will also help you understand the contract with your roofing professional and the project updates.
Some key roofing terms are listed below:

Asphalt: A waterproofing agent applied to roofing materials during manufacturing.

Asphalt plastic roofing cement: An asphalt-based sealant used to bond roofing materials. Also known as flashing cement, roof tar, bull or mastic.

Back surfacing: Granular material applied to the back side of shingles to keep them from sticking during delivery and storage.

Base flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to or resting on the deck to direct the flow of water onto the roof.

Built-up roof: Multiple layers of asphalt and ply sheets bonded together.

Butt edge: The bottom edge of the shingle tabs.

Caulk: To fill a joint to prevent leaks.

Closed valley: The valley flashing is covered by shingles.

Coating: A layer of viscous asphalt applied to the outer roof surface to protect the roof membrane.

Collar: Pre-formed flange placed over a vent pipe to seal the roof around the vent pipe opening. Also called a vent sleeve.

Conceived nail method: Application of roll roofing in which all nails are covered by a cemented, overlapping course.

Counter flashing: That portion of the flashing attached to a vertical surface above the plane of the roof to prevent water from migrating behind the base flashing.

Course: Row of shingles that can run Horizontally, diagonally or vertically.

Cricket: A peaked water diverter installed at the back of a chimney to prevent accumulation of snow and ice and to deflect water.

Deck: The top surface of which a roof system is applied, surface installed over the supporting framing members.

Double coverage: Asphalt roofing which lapped portion is at least two inches wider than the exposed portion, resulting in two layers of roofing material over the deck.

Downspout: A pipe for draining water from roof gutters to drain. Also called a leader.

Drip edge: L-shaped flashing used along the eaves and rakes to allow water run-off into the gutters and to drip clear of under construction construction.

Eave: The part of the roof that overhangs or extends outward and is not directly over the exterior walls or the buildings interior.

Exposed nail method: Application of roll roofing where nails are driven into the overlapping course of roofing. Nails are exposed to the elements.

Fascia: A wood trim board used to hide the cut ends of the roof's rafters and sheathing.

Felt: Fibrous material used as an underlayment or sheathing paper, describes roll roofing materials.

Flashing: Pieces of metal or roll roofing used to form water seal around vent pipes, chimneys, adjoining walls, dormers and valleys.

Gable: The end of an exterior wall that comes to a triangular point at the ridge of a sloping roof.

Granules: Ceramic-coated and fired crushed rock that is applied as the top surface of asphalt roofing products.

Gutter: The trough that channels water from the eaves to the downspouts. Usually attached to the fascia.

Head lap: An overlapping of shingles or roofing felt at their upper edge.

Hip: The fold or vertical ridge formed by the intersection of two sloping roof planes. Runs from the ridge to the eaves.

Ice dam: Condition forming water back-up at the eave areas by the thawing and re-freezing of melted snow on the overhang. Can force water under shingles, causing leaks.

Interlocking shingles: Individual shingles that mechanically fasten to each other to provide wind resistance.

Laminated shingle: Strip shingle made of two separate pieces laminated together to create extra thickness. Also called three-dimensional and architectural shingles.

Lap: Surface where one shingle or roll overlaps with another during the application process.

Mansard roof: A design with a near vertical roof plane connected to a roof plane of less slope at its peak. Contains no gables.

Mineral stabilizers: Finely ground limestone, slate, traprock or other inert materials added to asphalt coatings for durability and increased resistance to fire and weathering.

Nesting: A method of reroofing, installing a second layer of new asphalt shingle, in which the top edge of the new shingle is butted against the bottom edge of the existing shingle tab.

Pitch: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in feet, to the span, in feet.

Low Slope – Roof pitches that are less than 30 degrees.

Normal Slope – Roof pitches that are between 30 and 45 degrees.

Steep Slope – Roof pitches that are more than 45 degrees.

Rafter: The supporting framing that makes up the roof structure; immediately beneath the deck; the roof sheathing is delivered to the rafters.

Rake: The inclined edge of a sloped roof over a wall from the eave to the ridge. They can be close or extended.

Ridge: The horizontal external angle formed by the intersection of two sloping sides of a roof at the highest point of the roof, hip or dormer.

Run: The horizontal distance between the eaves and a point directly under the ridge; Egypt one half the span.

Selvage: That portion of roll roofing overlapped by the application of the roof covering to obtain double coverage.

Sheathing: Exterior grade boards used as a roof deck material.

Shed roof: A single roof plane with no hips, ridges, valleys or gables, not connected to any other roofs.

Slope: The degree of roof incline expressed as the ratio of the rise, in inches, to the run, in feet.

Smooth-surfaced roofing: Roll roofing that is covered with ground talc or mica instead of granules (coated).

Soffit: The finished underside of the eaves that extends from the fascia to the siding and hides the bottom of an overhang.

Soil stack: A vent pipe that penetrates the roof.

Span: The horizontal distance from eaves to eaves.

Special eaves flashing membrane: A self-adhering, waterproofing shingle underlayment designed to protect against water infiltration due to ice dams or wind driven rain.

Starter strip: Asphalt roofing applied at the eaves as the first course of hinges installed.

Tab: The weather exposed surface of strip shingles between the cutouts.

Telegraphing: Shingles installed over an uneven surface that show distortion.

Truss – A combination of beams, bars and ties, usually in triangular units to form a framework for support in wide span roof construction.

UL label: Label displayed on packaging to indicate the level of fire and / or wind resistance of asphalt roofing.

Underlayment: A layer of asphalt based roled materials installed under main roofing material before shingles are installed to provide additional protection for the deck.

Valley: The inner angle formed by the intersection of two inclined roof surfaces to provide water runoff.

Vapor barrier / retarder: Any material that precedes the passage of water or water vapor through it.

Vent: Any device installed on the roof as an outlet for air to ventilate the underside of the roof deck.

How to Clean a Violin Bow the Correct Way

Cleaning a violin bow is very important. However, the bow is very delicate so there is great care that needs to be taking when cleaning. This is something that should be done by an adult to ensure that no damage is done.

I must say that your bow should always be wiped clean after every use. This will help prevent resin and dirt from building up, which will cause damage to the strings on your violin.

To clean your bow, you should use ethyl or a wood alcohol. Along with the wood alcohol, you need to use a soft cloth or a paper towel. I would like to mention that these supplies can be found at your local hardware store. This is much cheaper than an instrumental store. I want to tell you, from a bad experience, to NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use rubbing alcohol. This will damage your violin bow and the hair on it.

When cleaning the hair on your bow, use your wood alcohol and an old toothbrush. Dip the toothbrush in the alcohol and gently brush the bow hair lengthwise. This will remove the dirt and extra rosin. Let the hair dry for three to four hours. Next, attach it to the bow and remember to apply rosin to your bow after cleaning.

Keep in mind, regular maintenance and cleaning will keep your violin in great shape. This will help the violin to last longer and the sound to remain consistent.

Cleaning a violin bow is very important. However, the bow is very delicate so there is great care that needs to be taking when cleaning. This is something that should be done by an adult to ensure that no damage is done.

I must say that your bow should always be wiped clean after every use. This will help prevent resin and dirt from building up, which will cause damage to the strings on your violin.

To clean your bow, you should use ethyl or a wood alcohol. Along with the wood alcohol, you need to use a soft cloth or a paper towel. I would like to mention that these supplies can be found at your local hardware store. This is much cheaper than an instrumental store. I want to tell you, from a bad experience, to NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use rubbing alcohol. This will damage your violin bow and the hair on it.

When cleaning the hair on your bow, use your wood alcohol and an old toothbrush. Dip the toothbrush in the alcohol and gently brush the bow hair lengthwise. This will remove the dirt and extra rosin. Let the hair dry for three to four hours. Next, attach it to the bow and remember to apply rosin to your bow after cleaning.

Keep in mind, regular maintenance and cleaning will keep your violin in great shape. This will help the violin to last longer and the sound to remain consistent.