The Benefits Of Carpet Cleaning

Carpets are a highly popular flooring option for homes because they’re warm and soft and make the whole family feel welcome and at home. Clean carpets are central to this feeling, and vacuuming, even as frequently as once a week, isn’t enough to keep carpets truly clean through the wearing activities of the day. Regular home life demands a lot from carpets, and professional carpet cleaning is the best way to keep them in great condition. There are many benefits of carpet cleaning, not the least of which is that it contributes to the great feeling everyone gets from walking barefoot on freshly cleaned carpets. Call today for your personal, professional carpet cleaning consultation and let the experts show you how your home can seem new again through clean carpets.

There is a thought that professional carpet cleaning uses damaging chemicals, but this isn’t the case. Modern carpet cleaning methods, specifically hot water extraction, uses water heated to more than 200 degrees Fahrenheit to remove dirt and particles and clean the carpets. The pressurized water loosens stains, dirt and other mites, which is all removed through the industrial vacuuming equipment. Hot water extraction is also entirely soap free, safe for all carpets and, most importantly, is safe for kids, pets and the environment. There is no residue left behind and your carpets will feel healthy and pure. In addition, hot water extraction carpet cleaning is safe for all types of carpets, from shag to berber to carpets with decorative patterns. Modern carpet cleaning methods will not upset the delicate fibers of your carpets and will actually help them look new longer.

One of the main benefits of professional carpet cleaning is that it reduces the level of allergens in your home. Carpet attracts bits and pieces that come in from the windows, which fall from shoes or enter the home in any amount of ways. Carpet is almost like a filter because it keeps all those particles snug within its fibers. However, when kids and pets lay on the carpet they’re getting close to those sometimes harmful particles, and vacuuming can even bring them close to the carpet surface without removing them, causing allergy flare ups and irritations. Professional carpet cleaning thoroughly removes all of these particles for a clean and healthy floor you’ll feel good about letting your kids get close to.

The same particles that cause allergies in your family can also cause depreciation to your carpet fibers. Dirt, stains and microscopic materials can get wedged in your carpeting and wear the fibers down, especially in high traffic areas where particles are being stamped in more frequently. Eventually, those particles will cause visible wear in addition to a distinct roughness under bare feet, and in time the carpeting will need to be replaced. Stains have the same adverse effects and are highly visible, even after the application of store bought carpet cleaners. Professional carpet cleaning completely removes stains and dirt from your carpets and will extend the lifespan of your carpeting, keeping it looking new longer and saving you from having to replace it prematurely.

Homeowners today are just as interested in the environmental consequences of their actions as they are about the effects of the products they use, and professional carpet cleaning meets all expectations. The hot water extraction method accepted by professional carpet cleaners is eco friendly because it relies on extremely hot temperatures to loosen particles, remove stains and sanitize carpets. Even the conditioners, stain removers and protectors used in certain carpets are environmentally friendly, and wash away neatly. There is no residue left behind in your carpets and nothing polluting to the environment, so homeowners can relax knowing their clean carpets are not at the expense of the planet. Green carpet cleaning is a celebrated and highly effective home cleaning method that can be used on every carpet type, every home and for every family.

One of the greatest benefits of modern professional carpet cleaning methods is that they practically eliminate the drying period for all types of carpets, reducing it down to just one hour. With hot water extraction cleaning, the water and all of the particles and dirt with it are entirely removed because of the industrial suctioning equipment, so there’s nothing left behind. Not only does this give carpets the truest clean, it means carpets will be ready for furniture and regular life in no time. There’s also no risk of mold or mildew build up because there’s no dampness. Carpets are clean and fresh through and through, and will remain soft and fluffy for many months to come.

Cure Hemorrhoids Naturally – Treating Hemorrhoids With Ginger, Olive Oil, and Spinach

Hemorrhoids (also known as piles) are a very common ailment today that affects both women and men, both old and young. Hemorrhoids develop when the veins in the anal and rectal regions become varicose. This is sometimes because of the difficulty in passing stools when a person is frequently constipated. There are other factors that contribute to the growth of hemorrhoids, such as aging, frequent diarrhea and old age.

Hemorrhoids are a very uncomfortable and painful problem, which is why those who have it are desperate for fast cures. The common symptoms include blood in stools, pain when trying to pass stools and itching in one’s anal region.

Why You Can And Should Treat Hemorrhoids Using Things You’ll Find In Your Kitchen?

Of course, you can always go to the doctor to ask for various medicated creams and pills to treat hemorrhoids. However, they are often very expensive and sometimes ineffective. In addition, remember that most medicines have side effects that you may have to deal with.

If you use the things that you would commonly find in your kitchen, you can save a lot of money. Did you know that you can actually treat hemorrhoids using items that you probably have at your home right now? There’s no need for you to go out and buy fancy stuff that could cost hundreds of dollars. Try the safer, more natural option and treat hemorrhoids yourself. There are no side effects to this home cure, which is not only cheap but very effective as well.

How To Use Ginger, Olive Oil And Spinach To Treat Hemorrhoids?

Ginger

Ginger is one of the best available treatments for hemorrhoids. Here is how you can make your own all-natural hemorrhoid medicine that is both tasty and effective. Mix one half teaspoon of juice from a fresh ginger with a teaspoon of fresh mint juice and a teaspoon of fresh lime juice. Add a tablespoon of honey to make the concoction taste better and take this everyday. You should see improvements in your hemorrhoids within two weeks.

Olive Oil And Spinach

Spinach is well known to have anti-oxidants, and is effective as an anti-inflammatory when it is combined with olive oil. Get three fresh spinach leaves and a tablespoon of olive oil. Chop the leaves as finely as you can and mix them well with olive oil. Stir the concoction until it acquires a paste-like texture.

Get a latex glove to ensure that the hemorrhoids won’t get infected. Dip the tip of your finger into the paste and carefully apply it on the hemorrhoids. Put the remaining spinach and olive oil paste into sterile gauze and put it directly on the rectum, keeping it in place with bandage or plaster. Change the gauze whenever you feel that the paste is drying up.

You should continue doing this until the inflammation of the hemorrhoids begins to dissipate. You will see improvements in just one day; though you must continue applying the spinach and olive oil bandage until the hemorrhoids completely dries up.

How to Effectively Protect Door Thresholds During Construction Projects

During construction or remodeling projects, door thresholds are often destroyed by dirt, mud, paint splatter, and careless spills. In order to avoid replacing or refinishing thresholds, it is recommended that contractors use temporary threshold protection. Following is a brief description of the pros and cons of each type of threshold protection.

UV protective tape is the best kind of adhesive threshold protection. It is a 9 mil. thick white tape that does not flake, even if exposed to bright sunlight. UV protective tape has chemicals in both the tape and adhesive that block UV rays and make the tape resistant to both sunlight and heat. It can be used in both hot and cold climates without the worry of adhesive transfer resulting in a quick and clean removal upon project completion. Although more expensive than other tapes, UV protective tape is very cost effective when the costs of clean up or repainting of entry thresholds are considered.

Blue masking tape and blue sill tapes are the most common tapes for protecting thresholds. These low cost tapes work for short term protection only in areas of low heat or sunlight. They are known to flake and chip when exposed to sunlight and are often cited for creating more work than the protection provided. These low quality 2 or 3 mil. tapes often leave a sticky adhesive residue on thresholds as the adhesive used in the tapes softens in warm temperatures.

Another option is to use fitted threshold protection made from molded plastic. The molded plastic threshold protectors are designed to protect the most common types of thresholds in residential or commercial construction. They are the most durable type of threshold protection and can be used for multiple projects. Several sill manufacturers provide plastic threshold protection that is specific to the model of sill they are selling. Unfortunately, heavy duty plastic protectors are not available for every type of entry threshold so the protection is not easy to obtain. There is one surface protection company on the west coast that does inventory plastic threshold protection for two of the most common sill profiles.

For protecting sliding door tracks, there are two types of threshold protection. The first is a hinged plastic protection that flips over the tracks of sliding doors to keep them clean from debris. This protection screws into a wood subflooring to hold it in place and thus cannot be used on sliding doors installed over cement slabs which are commonly used on the west coast. Another option that does work for protecting sliding doors installed on cement slabs is impact-resistant U-board protection. It is a thick, heavy weight compressed paper protection that is made from recycled material and is completely reusable. The U-board is placed over the tracks while the door is open and protects sliding door tracks from dirt and grime. As with the plastic protector, the Sill Pro keeps the sliding tracks clean and protects the tracks of the door from damage that can interfere with the working operations of the door.

Contact your local surface protection supplier to learn more about the different types of threshold protection available and which is best for your construction or remodeling project.

How To Remove Stickers and Decals Off a Football Visor and Window of Your Car or Truck

Question: When putting decals on a Football Helmet Visor, how do you remove the black decals that come on the visor?

Answer: If the sticker or decal that is on the visor is an easy peel vinyl, it should remove easily, but if it’s a standard adhesive, it can be difficult to remove.

In this case, what you’d need to do is get a hair dryer and heat the decal up enough that it is quite warm – but not hot – to the touch. Once this is done, get a fingernail under one edge of the decal and slowly pull it off. Hopefully it won’t leave any adhesive behind.

If it does leave some adhesive behind, you can get “orange peel” glue removers from the hardware store or possibly a larger grocery store as well. Apply to a soft paper or cloth towel, then dab on the glue until it softens, then rub it until it comes off. Clean the remaining residue with a dry corner of the towel. This type of glue remover works well on most plastics I’ve used without dulling or clouding the finish of the plastic.

Question: I purchased a large decal to apply to the rear window of my car, and I was wondering if there is any product that could be applied to the rear window to make the sticker easier to remove, plus protect the window simultaneously?

Answer: Not that we’re aware of. In reality, the decal itself will protect your vehicle’s rear window quite well. And if you understand how glue works, you won’t need to worry about getting the decal back off.

Of course, now I’m going to tell you how to get window decals off your car windows or bumpers the easy way. Well, sort of easy.

Most window stickers of the exterior application variety will be printed on vinyl sticker material or polyester decal material. The glue typically used is an acrylic adhesive, which, over time, becomes hardened and more difficult to remove. If you’re purchasing wholesale decals for resale, it might be wise to look into removable glue decal materials which are becoming popular for this reason.

But no mind. In your case you’ve already purchased a large sticker for the back window of your car, and you’re nervous about damaging the window, either during the application or removal of the decal later. In neither case do you need to worry about the window.

When it comes time to remove the decal from your car or truck, get a heat gun or a hair dryer to warm up the decal. If you’re using a heat gun, the lowest heat setting should do the trick. If you are using a hair dryer, you’ll likely need to use the highest heat setting. With large stickers, you may need to heat a small section of the decal and work it off a section at a time, especially if it’s been on the rig for an extended period of time. Once you’ve heated a small area (100 square inches or so), begin to peel the vinyl with a slow but steady pulling motion at around a 45 degree angle. As you get to the end of the heated window/vinyl, you’ll feel it become more difficult to remove the vinyl. Stop and heat another section of vinyl/glass, and repeat.

When you have the entire decal removed, you may find that there is some glue residue remaining on the glass. You’ll need a good “orange peel” oil glue remover, available at many hardware stores, to apply with a spray bottle or a soft towel or soft paper towel to the glue. Allow the glue remover a couple minutes to soften the glue. You may want to apply a second application of the glue remover to the residual glue to further soften it, especially if the decals have been on your car for more than a year.

Once you’ve softened the glue sufficiently, you can take a glue remover soaked towel and gently rub the areas where the glue is remaining. Once you can visually observe that the glue is gone, take a dry, soft towel and wipe the window again to remove the glue remover residue. If you need to apply graphics immediately, you can use isopropyl alcohol to neutralize the glue remover, or if the decal was on a painted surface on your car or truck, warm soapy water may be preferable to alcohol, which could potentially dull your car’s finish.

Protecting Your Home From The Damage Caused By Excessive Water Pressure

The pressure from the street to your home is not constant; it fluctuates. Often the pressure will rise substantially at night when water demand in the neighborhood is at its lowest point. Maintaining a steady water pressure throughout your plumbing system is important. In fact, the pressure reducing valve (also called a pressure regulator) may be the most important single factor in your entire plumbing system.

Every faucet, angle stop, water heater, water closet, dishwasher, washing machine and hose bib in your home may suffer excessive wear and begin to malfunction if the pressure is not kept in check. If your home has reading of over 75 psi (pounds per square inch), it is not being controlled by a working pressure regulator; either one is not present, has been bypassed, or has failed. The only exception to this rule is in systems which use a multi-range pressure regulator to accommodate landscaping demands. In the unlikely event that someone has used one of these specialized pressure regulators on a house system, the pressure should be adjusted to below 75 psi. If the pressure reducing valve cannot be set below 75 psi then it should be replaced or repaired.

In order to adjust the pressure on your water pressure regulator you must have a pressure gauge attached downstream, i.e. after the regulator. Often you will find a hose bib just above the regulator coming into the house. Just be sure the hose bib is located after the regulator on the line going into the house. The water pressure gauges have a hose bib thread on a swivel adapter to attach them to a bib. House pressure should be between 50 and 75 psi.

Adjusting the pressure on a working regulator is not difficult. Instructions here are for a Zurn/Wilkins #600 but should work for most regulators, when in doubt check the manual or look up the manufacturer online for the product specifications. Some regulators use arrows on the cap assembly to indicate which way to turn the cap to increase or decrease the pressure. Keep in mind that a nonfunctioning regulator might start leaking if you try to adjust it so have a qualified plumber waiting in the wings if a problem develops. On the Wilkins #600, turn the adjustment bolt clockwise to raise the pressure or counterclockwise to lower it; be sure to loosen the locknut which holds the adjustment bolt in place. Keep an eye on the pressure gauge during this process, or if the gauge is somewhere else have someone watch it for you. Once you have obtained the correct pressure then secure the locknut.

There are several issues that can indicate a problem with your water pressure: valve noise, low flow from fixtures, unsteady flow, and creeping pressure build up. We will deal with each one of these in turn.

Your valve might hum, whistle or chatter. Water travelling at high speeds is the usual cause of vibration that leads to hum or whistle. If you are experiencing hum or whistle it is likely that either your pipes are too small or you have an undersized valve or two in the line; have a plumber check this out for you.

If the seat washer is worn or the seal ring is loose inside the regulator, this may cause chatter. Many regulators have repair kits available to deal with worn seat washers or seal rings but do take mechanical aptitude to install. Repair kits do not always work because the body of the unit may have worn due to water passage over time-think the Grand Canyon in miniature. You may spend about one-third of the cost of a new regulator on a repair kit and it might not do the trick. If you call a plumber they will probably replace the regulator because they understand about water wear. Most plumbers warranty their parts and labor. Be sure to ask.

Low flow can be caused by a clogged screen in your regulator, pipe that is too small in the home, or excessive demand by appliances. It also could be a combination of all three. Checking the troubleshooting guide for your regulator should give you a clue on how to clean the screen. Again, keep in mind that water wear could make the regulator impossible to take apart without a problem.

Unsteady flow is often caused by low pressure in the main supply from the street due to excessive demand at peak hours of the day. It can also be caused by appliances such as dishwashers and washing machines being used at the same time. If the pressure from the main fluctuates this is a problem brought on by your water department; there may be little that can be done about this. If, on the other hand, it is due to small house service lines then you can have the size of the lines increased. Before you consider that expense, though, try increasing the pressure at the regulator.

Creeping pressure build up in the house supply can be caused by thermal expansion. It may happen each time your water heater runs. A thermal expansion tank at the water heater should help; it will not prevent the pressure rise but it should limit the rise to a reasonable level. This small tank absorbs excess pressure by cushioning it. The burst of water pressure presses against the diaphragm in the tank; the diaphragm is forced down against compressed air and moves toward the base of the tank. This motion of the diaphragm against the compressed air relieves the shock of the excess pressure. In many areas thermal expansion tanks should be used to protect against excessive pressure build up. On the other hand, the regulator itself may be the problem because of worn or cut O-rings or seals. It might have foreign matter inside so you can try to flush it by opening at least two outlets to full volume for up to 5 minutes. There may be something stuck on the seating face of the seal ring that this may dislodge. For worn parts a repair kit might do the trick but keep in mind that the body of the unit might also be worn beyond repair. Replacing the unit might be the best bet.

Solving your problem could be as simple as turning the bolt on your regulator. It could be as complicated as increasing the line size throughout part or your entire home. Letting the situation continue will almost certainly add to your problems. Keep an eye on your water pressure. Your checkbook will love you for it.

Small Engine Repair – How Do I Remove the Flywheel on My Go Kart?

We have been talking about ignition systems and their repair, but one important component is flywheel removal. Especially if you have an engine with points. Typically the points are underneath the flywheel, and when they go bad, the flywheel must be removed.

You will discover that flywheels have illusive retention devices, in particular the rapid rewind systems that include ball bearings.

You will also discover that once you figure out how to remove the “rapid rewind cog system” that the flywheel is fixed pretty hard on the crank shaft.

This article is about:

– How to first of all remove the “rapid rewind cog system.”

– Secondly how to remove the stubborn flywheel

– And finally how to put it all back together again.

It should be noted that the flywheel has fins on it. If any of these fins become broken, the engine will become out of balance and vibrate intensely. If the fins are broken, the flywheel is junk, so be very careful around the fins.

To remove the “rapid rewind cog” use a pipe wrench and a screw driver. The pipe wrench is put on the “rapid rewind cog” and the screw driver is inserted in between the cast iron fins. (Note: there are aluminum fins, stay away from them, they will break)

Rotate the crank shaft so that the screw driver is pressed against an immovable object. Another method which is more forgiving, is to wedge a piece of wood (this works best when the engine is mounted to the engine mounts on the go kart) under the flywheel. This acts like a wedge brake.

Gently press down on the pipe wrench. Excessive force is not needed here. The “rapid rewind cog” generally comes off rather easily then.

A note with respect to the “rewind cog”: unless you like chasing ball bearings all over the floor, keep in mind that typically a screen covers the rewind. Remove the screen, BUT put the retention screws back in place right away. This makes the “rewind cog” stay together, and also be accessible to the pipe wrench.

Next the flywheel is stuck on the crank shaft with a press fit. Actually the flywheel is press fit using a cone shaft aperture on the crankshaft. The object is to “pop” the press fit. To do this generally a shock needs to be introduced into the system.

There are two methods that work best. First shock the end of the crank shaft with a very hard piece of wood and a mallet. Note: do not use steel on steel, the end of the crank shaft will become mushroomed over and become unusable. Repair is usually not doable.

There are tools available that you put on the end of the crankshaft, but even they can damage the crankshaft. So be careful to use minimal blows on the crank. And in case I did not make myself clear, the blows are normal, or perpendicular, or axial to the crankshaft, not to the side of the crank, but to the end of it.

Sometimes that does not work. If the engine has been sitting around for years, or is over 10 years old, the crank may have rusted partially to the flywheel.

Use a little penetrating oil at the flywheel, crank interface.

Then pry the back of the flywheel, very gently, and evenly with a flat head screw driver, or even a prybar. Very light action is needed. If you are reefing on the screw driver, there is something wrong. (something else is holding the flywheel on!)

The flywheel should “pop” off right away, so be sure to catch it before it flies off and falls on the floor. I suggest having a catch system such as rags or cardboard.

To reinstall the flywheel put it back together the same way it came apart. Use the pipe wrench and the screw driver method to tighten the “rewind cog.”

Again, do not over tighten the “rewind cog.” Also take note that the washer was put back in place.

Just as a side note, the only real reason a flywheel should be removed on modern magneto style engines is if the key way sheared. If the key way sheared you should be looking at other areas on the engine for damage…

E-Mini Trading: Candlesticks Are Great, But I Prefer Renko Bars

I’ve been spending some time in recent articles describing different e-mini charting techniques. Specifically, we have been looking at different methodologies to display raw price data. We have discussed candlestick charting, range bar charting, and tick charts. This article will deal with one of my favorite topics and most used charting technique. We will be discussing Renko bars.

My e-mini trading style is devoted exclusively to scalping, or carving out small chunks of price movement in a broader trend. As a scalper, I try to limit the parameters and variables that traders with longer investment horizons must take into consideration. In short, I am interested in momentum and, more specifically, price action. Renko charts are unique in that they deal only with price; there is no consideration is given to volume or time.

Renko charts have their basis in Japanese futures trading and are considered to date back several centuries. The term “Renko” comes from the Japanese word “Renga” which means brick, and have been popular among Forex traders in recent years. The Renko system resembles stacked bricks when they are forming in a trend. I have been using them for several years to trade e-mini contracts with great success. Let’s take a close look at some of the unique characteristics of Renko system.

The size of each Renko brick is determined by the e-mini trader.

If prices are very inactive, or static, there may be very little movement in the Renko bricks.

The Renko trading system are use to track trends and filter out extraneous market noise.

Unlike range bars, Renko bricks to generate a brick only when the price has moved the predetermined number of ticks in a single direction.

Renko bricks can be calculated at the start of a new brick or at the close of a new brick.

Now let’s get down to some of the basics in using the Renko systems in an e-mini scalping system. One of the most difficult jobs I have as a trading educator is discouraging students from taking trades during periods of market noise. (Market noise is a period of time when the market is going through normal backing and filling operations and not trending.) By using the Renko system, market noise (which is sometimes referred to as a period of consolidation) is filtered out because consolidating markets exhibit very little directionality in price. When using Renko bars, consolidation periods appear as several Renko bricks; this is in sharp contrast to a traditional candlestick chart where consolidation periods appear as an extended grouping of a very tightly spaced candlestick bars. (candlestick charts are generally based upon a time variable) During periods of narrow range bound price action, Renko bricks will only will add new bricks when the price action has moved the trader specified period of time in one direction. In short, most of the noise prevalent in time-based candlestick charts or multidirectional range charts is eliminated.

In my trading, I typically use either 4 or 5 tick Renko charts. It is not uncommon for me to experiment with these tick settings to determine which setting gives me the clearest view of the actual price action occurring on the chart I am observing. Further, I will generally allow at least two bricks to form in one direction before I consider taking a trade in the direction in which the bricks are moving. There are several generally accepted ways to identify directionality when using Renko bars. Some systems draw hollow bricks when the market action is moving to the upside and solid bricks when the market action is moving to the downside. In my trading, I use the traditional red and green coloration unique to candlesticks to indicate the market directionality. Red Renko bricks indicate the market is moving to the downside, and green bricks indicate the market is moving to the upside. Further, I have found it is most effective to calculate Renko bricks at the close of the bar, as opposed to the beginning of the bar. This is, of course, a matter of personal preference; but I find that using the closing price fits well with my trading system which requires me to initiate trades only at the close of a bar.

In summary, we have only touched a few of the advantages that the Renko system offer. We have noted that this system is ideal for identifying trends and minimizing market noise. Further, we have identified some specific settings where an e-mini trader can begin and emphasized that adjusting the Renko tick settings from time to time may make the trends clearer and easier to understand. Of course, specific tick settings with Renko bars should be set at an e-mini trader’s discretion. Finally, I have emphasized that in my trading using the scalping style, the Rinko system is ideal because I am very trend oriented and Renko bars are priced based and were designed to identify trends based on price, not time or volume.

As a quick note, information about Renko bars can be difficult to find and time should be spent practicing with this system before implementing it with your live trading. In the end though, I suspect most e-mini traders will find the Renko system is a superior methodology to implement into their scalping strategy.

Places in Phoenix to Rent an Apartment With a Broken Lease, Bad Credit Or Felony

Phoenix Arizona is one of the cities that has some of the richest history in the United States. It was home to some of the earliest settling communities and also was home to one of the oldest Indian tribes in the entire North America. Today, the city is a sprawling metropolis that boasts the 6th largest US city population. It is headquarters to numerous important firms and is also an academic and cultural center. Phoenix is therefore a great place to live not to mention the hospitable climate. There are numerous apartments here that offer great amenities that are geared towards any housing needs. Many of these apartments also require good credit, a reasonable rental history and also agreeable criminal history.

As we have mentioned, many apartments in the Phoenix area will require an applicant to have acceptable credit, rental record and also demonstrate the absence of recent felonies. Some felonies can cause an automatic denial. But are there places in Phoenix where one can rent an apartment despite a troubled background, poor credit and even a broken lease? The answer is yes, but one has to know the actual location. Below are a few places within Phoenix where one can rent if they have a tainted credit score, a not-so-perfect lease record and even a felony:

  • Downtown Phoenix
  • Southwest Phoenix
  • Arcadia
  • Maryvale
  • Valley Metro
  • Tucson
  • Ahwatukee
  • Phoenix Hill
  • South Phoenix
  • Golden Gate
  • North Mountain

The challenge is always the fact that many of these apartment complexes do not readily advertise that they offer second chance rental agreements. It is therefore left to the applicant to look for them which can translate into a very frustrating and costly ordeal.

One place to search off course is the Internet. This however does not always unearth any locations within Phoenix. Another option is to consult with apartment locators within your area. These tend to have a better experience as to which apartments will readily accept a tenant that has prior issues.

Even when one does locate a second chance apartment in Phoenix, there are a few qualifying markers that must be met.

  • You must be employed at least 6 months
  • You must earn at least three times the lease amount

In many cases a deposit may be required. Depending on the apartment complex, this deposit may vary. Some will even ask for 3 months worth of rent in advance but most are content with a deposit.

How to Protect Your Hair When Using a Flat Iron

When using heat styling tools on your hair, it is important to take the necessary steps to protect your hair or you could end up with some very undesirable results.

Many people do not realize that even the highest quality professional ceramic and tourmaline flat irons can have a damaging effect on your hair if used incorrectly or too frequently, or if your hair is not adequately protected. Heat damage to your hair is hard to repair, and most of the time you will have to cut your hair to get rid of the damage.

As you probably know, temporarily straightening your hair with a flat iron is done by applying heated plates to the length of your hair. The heat straightens your hair by breaking and then reforming the hydrogen bonds in the inside of your hair. When the right precautions are not taken, this can harm your hair’s outer protective layer causing weakness and breakage.

Flat ironing your hair (or any type of heat styling) can cause two different types of damage to your hair cuticle. The kind of damage that occurs depends on whether your hair is styled while it is wet or dry. There are products that can be used to make the damage appear less noticeable, but your hair is not able to “heal”, so the damage never actually goes away until you cut your hair.

  • Heat styling dry hair causes radial and axial cracking along the edges of the hair cuticle, which makes your hair weaker and can lead to breakage, chipping and split ends. Most of the time these effects are severe enough that they cannot be reversed and you would have to cut your hair to get rid of the damage.
  • Heat styling wet or damp hair causes the water in the hair to explode out in little moisture bursts. This causes a buckling and bubbling effect on the hair cuticle along the entire length of your hair, and has the appearance of a blister when you look at it closely.

Since heat damage to your hair is hard (if not impossible) to repair, it’s much easier to try to avoid it altogether. Heat styling, when done properly, can cause only minimal damage that you won’t even be able to notice. It is possible to flat iron your hair and keep it healthy, shiny, and smooth at the same time! Here are some tips for reducing heat damage when using a ceramic flat iron:

  • Do not flat iron (or heat style) your hair every day. The more frequently you do it, the more damage you are causing to your hair. It has been recommended by dermatologists to not straighten your hair more than three times a week.
  • Make sure your hair is moisturized! Before you style, wash your hair with a good moisturizing shampoo and use a good conditioner that restores moisture to the hair shaft. You can also use a leave-in conditioner for added moisture and protection. It is also a good idea to do a restorative deep conditioning treatment on your hair once a week.
  • When you have the time, do not blow dry your hair, and let it air dry before you flat iron it. Wet hair is much more susceptible to damage than dry hair is, and applying the heat of a blow dryer while your hair is wet can cause distress. It can also over-dry your hair, making it appear dull and brittle.
  • If you don’t have the time to let your hair dry naturally and you must blow dry it (use an ionic blow dryer if possible), make sure you use a protective spray all throughout your hair, and use the cool setting on your hair dryer.
  • Before you begin to flat iron your hair, make sure it is completely dry (unless you are using a wet-to-dry flat iron). Wet hair and heat are not a good combination because your hair is weaker when it is wet and it can be damaged more easily.
  • After all moisture is gone from your hair, smooth in a heat protectant product. These are oils and serums that give your hair an extra defense against the heat and add a layer of protection between your hair and the flat iron. They also make your hair more manageable and shiny.
  • Use a flat iron with variable temperature controls, so you can decide how hot you want it to be. Use the lowest heat setting possible that will get the job done.
  • Use a high quality flat iron with ceramic or tourmaline plates instead of metal plates. Ceramic and tourmaline materials produce far-infrared heat and negative ions that lock in your hairs natural oils and moisture to prevent it from drying out. Ceramic and tourmaline flat irons are also better at combating frizz, and also give you much sleeker and smoother results than a metal flat iron. It is definitely worth it to spend more money on a quality flat iron that will not cause nearly as much damage.

Although damage to your hair cannot be completely prevented if you intend to use heat styling tools, it can be drastically reduced if you take the steps to protect your hair. Flat irons enable women of all hair types and textures to have beautiful straight and silky hair, and if you are going to use one just make sure you protect your hair!

A Brief History of Greek Ancient Helmets

There are a few different “main designs” of Greek Helmets that the Greek wore (or their close related factions) that are worth mentioning or that most people are looking to add to their collection. These include the Trojan helmet, Corinthian helmet, Spartan helmet, and Hoplite helmet. Most of these can be found in online stores, but you may want to do some research as to which are historically accurate before buying.What do you think of when someone says “Ancient Greek Helmet”?

The first thing that pops into your head is a picture of a Spartan soldier, complete with a red cape, round, bronze shield, long spear, and a bronze or brass helmet with the ever-so popular plume. Luckly, many online retail stores and speciallty armor stores have this helmet for sale, as it is widely known to be a popular collector’s item. Commonly names as the Italic Corinthian helmet or just plainly a Spartan helmet, this replica will be a great addition to your collection. First of all, there are many types of variations of the helmet, so you’re likely to get a unique one from the other collectors. The plumes come in red, white, black, and blue. This added to a combination of different metals makes your helmet a must have.

Most Greek helmets will look like the Italic Corinthian design, which is characterized by a tall plume that may be made into a pony tail at the end. It also has the long cheek guards with a slot in the middle for maximum air flow. It also will be a tan plume, red, or black. Depending on the color of the rest of your outfit (black, brass, or bronze armor), any of these plume colors will do. The most popular out their for the Italic Corinthian is going to be the tan and red plumes.Another popular Ancient Greek Helmet is the Hoplite helmet. The Hoplite was a common soldier for the Greek armor and they carried the recognizable white round shield and a long spear. They were excellent for repelling cavalry and charges by soldiers. However, being not very maneuverable, they were vulnerable to attacks in the rear.

This type of helmet usually had a plume of fine horse hair that had strength and durability. Often times it was made into a braided pony tail at the end of the plume.The main thing to remember when looking at Greek helmets is that many of them look very similar. This is most likely a good thing when you are doing your historical research or are looking for a helmet to purchase. As many of Greek helmets sold in stores may look very similar or the same, you can bet that purchasing on of these will be a safe purchase for your collection or reenactment group. All in all, finding the classic Greek helmet is a matter of research and visiting many web stores and history sites. Many of the helms you’ll find are about the same design, so you’ll get the general idea as to what the different types of Greek helmets are. Of course, some of the best ways to research Greek history is reading articles and news snippets on major websites and in encyclopedias. After that you may try visiting web stores to find the most historically accurate Greek Helmet.

On The Trail Of The Cockroach

A nasty little story your exterminator will never tell you because either he just doesn’t know or is afraid to tell.

Cockroaches have been around for millions of years (or, if you don’t buy the theory of evolution, about 6,000 years). Either way, they are here and that’s a fact.

There are many different species of cockroaches and they are found almost everywhere. Some species of cockroaches live outdoors in the woods and in the fields and don’t usually end up inside our homes…..but others really like our homes and those are the ones I want you to think about right now.

It’s funny how we are so in denial about cockroaches. It’s true. In Florida, for instance, they are called “Palmetto Bugs”. That sounds so much nicer and cleaner than cockroach, doesn’t it? How often have I heard someone say, “I saw one of those big brown ugly bugs….you know….the kind that flies…… the….well, you know, like those Palmetto Bugs, the ones in Florida.”

“That would be a Smokey Brown Cockroach, Mrs. Smith. Periplaneta fuliginosa”

“Oh no….It wasn’t a cockroach….it was one of those big brown….you know….like the ones……..”

“Face it Mrs. Smith…..it’s a cockroach Deal with it!”

The fact is…..Cockroaches are found in ALL homes! That’s right. Cockroaches are in ALL homes. Maybe not all the time, and certainly some homes have more than others, but, if you live in a home in the Southeastern United States, YOU HAVE COCKROACHES IN YOUR HOME FROM TIME TO TIME! You might not see them, but they are there just the same, hiding in cracks and crevices, in the attic, in the basement or crawl space, in the garage or on the screened porch, in wall voids, in the gutters, behind the fireplace, under the dishwasher, in the pantry, or one or more of a hundred other places. Yep…..you’ve got roaches whether you like it or not. Don’t worry….I’m not going to tell your neighbors. (They’ve got’em too you know!).

FACT: Cockroaches need food and water so, when they come inside, they are more likely to end up in the kitchen than any other room in the house.

FACT: Cockroaches enter homes through cracks and crevices in most cases, although the German cockroach….the one that is a major problem in restaurants and grocery stores, is usually brought into your home from somewhere else. They don’t live out in the woods….only in places where people live.

FACT: Roaches, like the very large Smokey Brown Cockroach, or “Palmetto Bug”, live out in the woods and mulch and in the ivy growing around your house. (by the way, you won’t like hearing this, but that gorgeous ivy growing all over the side of your house is a virtual ROACH FACTORY!). They enter homes through spaces around door thresholds, windowsills, pipes, vents, cracks, louvers, and eaves. The ONLY WAY TO KEEP THEM OUT is to use weather-stripping, caulking and sealing all of the areas where they can get in!

“Why my home?”

Good question. You have lights on at night and that attracts lots of bugs to the windows and doorways. Try leaving a porch light on at night and go out there and see how many bugs you count. Pretty amazing. There is actually light coming out from underneath the doorway from inside and that light attracts them also. And then they feel the warm temperature of the air coming out from under the door and that also attracts them. Bam….they’re inside!

MYTH: If you see one roach, you’ve got ten. If you see ten, you’ve got a hundred. Nope. It could be just one.

So…. you understand why you have roaches in your home from time to time…..right?

Now let’s take a look at what happens when that roach gets into your home and how he survives. Let’s follow him…into the kitchen!

The typical Smokey Brown Cockroach (The really big, ugly, dark brown ones we like to call Palmetto Bugs) likes the kitchen because there is plenty of food and water there.

“But I keep my food in containers and I keep my floors and countertops clean. I am a clean person. My kitchen is clean. No roach would ever find food there. I’m a clean person and a neat housekeeper. Please…you are insulting me and I don’t like it one bit!”

O.K. Calm down…Let me explain it to you this way. As a matter of fact, it would probably be best for me to just put it in the form of a list for you, but I like telling stories so here’s one for you. After you read it, you tell me if a cockroach could possibly survive in YOUR kitchen!

There’s this big ole’ nasty looking cockroach. We’ll just call him “Smokey.” He has entered your home through the gap underneath the door to the patio. He has decided to take up residence underneath your dishwasher because it is warm from the heat generated by the motor when it is running and there is moisture from condensation. Dark, damp, warm…ah, the good life. What a great place to spend a vacation if you are a cockroach!

The first night, Smokey decides to check out all of the restaurants…you know…find out all of the good places to eat so he doesn’t have to waste a lot of time every night going from place to place. He wants to be able to focus on more important things, like finding that cute little female he bumped into a couple’a nights ago out by the gas grill!

Smokey loves the night life, so, as soon as all of the lights are off and you have gone to bed and everything is quiet, he is off to the races!

By the way…..did you know that over 42 types of bacteria have been identified on the feet of cockroaches, including the germs that cause serious diseases such as Salmonellosis, Gastroenteritis, Dysentary and Poliomyelitis? Airborne contaminates from their feces (poop) can also trigger respiratory symptoms including Asthma attacks is sensitive individuals! Certainly not all types on all cockroaches, but enough to say truthfully that everywhere a cockroach travels he leaves behind a trail of bacteria with every footstep. The types of bacteria vary according to where the cockroach has walked recently. He also picks up new bacteria and transports it from one place to another on the bottoms of his feet, just as you and I would track mud into the house. He walks on dog and cat poop because he just loves the little snacks he finds there. He lives underneath the dishwasher or around the pipes underneath the kitchen sink or refrigerator, and years of scum and food scraps and mold and mildew and crud have built up there and it is a seething mass of bacteria and germs and who knows what other types of contamination…..and all of that junk is all over Smokey’s feet and he tracks it around everywhere he goes! Are you with me so far?

While you are asleep at night, Smokey is on the move. He is hungry and so he visits the buffet you have unknowingly provided.

First, he stops off at the toaster. He crawls down inside the toaster and licks the crumbs off of the wire grate and basket that supports your bread when you make toast! It doesn’t take long, however, before he is tired of toast. He has crawled all throughout the toaster and it all tastes the same, so he moves on. (Did I mention the bacteria on his feet?)

Next, he goes to the can opener on the countertop. Ah yes…here is a real assortment of exotic foods, all blended together into a form of crud on the little round blade that cuts into the can and goes around the rim when it turns. Each time you open another can, it not only picks up more food from that can, but it deposits the crud and bacteria already present into the can you just opened! Sure…I know you wash it, but you just can’t get into all of those hard-to-reach places…not like Smokey can! No Sir. Smokey can lick the crud from that can opener wheel when you didn’t even know there was crud on it. As a matter of fact, he crawls all over that can opener until he has licked off every last morsel. Oh, it doesn’t matter if you use one of those small, hand operated can openers and leave it in the drawer, because that’s his next stop!

Kitchen drawers have no lid on them. They are simply a tray that slides on a track back into the cabinet. All Smokey, (or a mouse or rat for that matter) has to do is just crawl over the top and into the drawer. Now you might ask….why would a big, nasty cockroach want to stop off in the drawer where I keep my silverware and cooking utensils? The answer is really very simple. Those things are not as clean as you think they are. Nope. There is food residue on your spoons and forks and knives and other utensils that you are not even aware of. Not on all of them, but on some of them….and Smokey knows its there. You see, he has a very sensitive nose. He can detect things that you and I can’t. I guess that’s one of the reasons he’s been around for so long. Anyway, he crawls all over everything in the drawer and, even if he can’t find anything good to lick, he has tracked his nasty feet all over the spoon you will use tomorrow morning to eat you cereal or stir your coffee!

Oh…I think I forgot to mention…Smokey “poops” a lot too. Everywhere he goes, he “goes”…if you know what I mean. And by now he has pooped all down inside your toaster, all over your can opener, and all over the inside of your silverware drawer.

Of course he will eventually visit the cabinet where you keep the pots and pans and cookie sheets, and bowls and dishes and cups and glasses and, before the night is over, he may wind up just taking a break from his wanderings and resting for awhile to top of a can of Chicken Noodle Soup or taking a little snooze on the surface your everyday dishes.

Eventually, the long night comes to an end and, on his way back to his hiding place underneath the dishwasher, a tired Smokey makes one last stop to crawl all over your apples, bananas, or whatever else you might have that’s worth a nibble or two.

One thing’s for sure…Smokey isn’t picky about food. (Although he is quite fond of the cheesy residue that is found on your toddler’s pacifier) But then again, that thing is never just lying around at night, is it?

Oh…I almost forgot to mention your gas grill out on the patio or deck. Smokey just loves the grease and leftover food that’s all over the cooking surface of your grill. He and all of his buddies like to hide down in the bottom of the grill and, at night when you aren’t grilling out, they come up and spend the night feasting and partying all over the exact spot where you just slapped that big sirloin last weekend. If you have one of those vinyl covers over your grill, that’s even better. As a matter of fact, many times I have lifted one of those covers and seen dozens of cockroaches scurrying in all directions. When those folks invite me over for a cookout, I always make it a point to bring a casserole for myself!

So…the next time you see a “Palmetto Bug” on the porch or patio, or find one on the kitchen floor and you don’t think it’s anything to be concerned about, just remember this…they don’t always end up in the kitchen. Nope. Sometimes they end up in the bathroom. After all…they do love the taste of the toothpaste residue on your toothbrush and around the edges of the lid to the toothpaste tube!

And that’s a fact

P.S. If Smokey actually turns out to be “Smolina”, she may produce up to 300 offspring over the next 6 months to one year…all in your kitchen. Think about that!

Simple Way to Get More Heat from Your Fireplace

For some people, a fireplace might as well be a video of flaming logs. Their primary interest is the welcoming ambiance a fireplace’s blaze presents. If, however, you expect your fireplace to provide heat in exchange for your log-carrying, fire-building efforts, (or in the case of gas logs, in exchange for your gas bill), it’s time to maximize your fireplace’s heat output.

There are various contraptions designed to return more of a wood or gas fireplace’s heat into the room and stanch the flow of that precious heat from escaping up the chimney. Many of them involve fans and vents and considerable expense. But one of the most time-honored, hassle-free, and least expensive methods of increasing a fire’s heat output is making a comeback: the fireback.

A fireback is a sheet of metal, sized in proportion to the fireplace, that’s placed against your back fireplace wall. Firebacks can be set on the hearth’s floor and just leaned against the back fireplace wall, but often they are secured by placing them in supporting braces which keep the fireback from sliding. Firebacks come in two main styles: the cast iron fireback and the stainless steel fireback.

The traditional cast iron fireback, popular in earlier times and making a revival now, is a sheet of heavy, black, cast iron. Often they are cast with a design, such as a fleur de lis or eagle, to add a decorative touch to this functional fireplace accessory.

The cast iron firebacks work on the same principle as heating radiators. The metal is heated (by hot water in the case of radiators and by the fire in the case of firebacks), and then that heat is radiated into the room.

Although attractive and functional, the cast-iron firebacks are too heavy for many people to manage easily. Their weight also adds to their shipping costs, and therefore to their total price.

A more modern fireback design, one that is growing in popularity, is made of a sheet of very gently curved, tempered stainless steel. These stainless steel firebacks warm your room in two ways. First, like the cast iron firebacks, they radiate the heat of the fire forward into the room. But they also reflect the heat, as well as the light, of the fire into the room.

Stainless steel firebacks weigh only one-sixth as much as a similarly sized cast iron fireback, so they are easier to manage and less costly to ship. But their main appeal may be their price: They cost only a fraction as much as their cast iron cousins. Whereas a cast iron fireback, depending on size, can cost $250 to $700, the stainless steel versions usually go for $50 to $150.

Both cast iron and stainless steel firebacks dramatically increase the room-warming capacity of your wood or gas fireplace fire. The addition of this simple fireplace accessory to your hearth can mean warmer toes and lower heating bills.

How to Implement a Wide Area Network

A Wide Area Network (WAN) is a computer set of connections that helps link multiple distance districts that may extend across the globe. WANs generally help connecting numerous smaller networks, for example local area networks (LANs) or metro area networks (MANs). The most prevalent WAN all over the world is the Internet. Several fragments of the Internet can also function with due similarity to WANs. The chief variation amid WAN and LAN expertise is scalability. WAN is expected to be stretched because the requirement to cover multiple cities, even countries and continents, is a must.

A group of switches and routers are interrelated to structure a Wide Area Network. The switches can be attached in diverse localities like complete network and partial networks as well. A wide area network can be confidentially possessed or hired from a service provider, but the fact cannot be ignored that it covers multiple servers.

Packet switching and circuit switching equipments are employed in the WAN. Packet switching permits consumer to distribute widespread carrier supplies so that the haulier can construct additional proficient utilization of its communications. In a packet switching unit, networks have associations into the network of the carrier, and numerous clients split the set of connections of the carrier. The carrier can then generate effective circuits among sites of the customers, by which packets of data are distributed from one to the other, all the way through the network.

Circuit Switching allow the data connections to be ascertained when required and then concluded when transmission is widespread. These acts like a normal telephone line work for voice correspondence. Integrated Services Digital Network (ISDN) is a fine illustration of circuit switching. When a router has information for a remote site, the switched circuit is commenced with the circuit amount of the remote arrangement of the entire network.

Abundant WANs have been assembled, together with communal packet networks, great corporate networks, armed networks, depository networks, stock brokerage networks and airline reservation networks.

Some WANs are immensely widespread across the globe, but the majority do not supply accurate worldwide exposure in terms of coverage and connection.

The features of the communication amenities direct to an importance and prominence on competence of communications techniques in the devised plans of WANs. Overbearing the quantity of traffic and evading extreme hold-ups are important. A lot of WANs also put into practice complicated administrating measures to report as to which consumer incinerates the network resources. This is utilized to produce billing information to price the use and expenditure of individual consumers.

Conduction rate recurrently extended from 1200 bps to 6 Mbps; even though a few connections like ATM and Leased lines can be utilized at speeds advanced as compared 156 Mbps. Standard communication contacts engaged in WANs are telephone lines, microwave links and satellite network. Network protocols collectively with TCP/IP put across or transmit transfer and dispatch presentation. Protocols comprising of Packet over SONET/SDH, MPLS, ATM and Frame relay are commonly employed by provision suppliers to deliver the connections that are utilized in WANs.

Top Ten Romantic Pick Up Lines to Steal a Lady’s Heart

Courting a lady is not just that easy especially if she prefers to be in a serious relationship with a guy. Girls usually turn down guys for some reasons. There are some guys who are just very proud of themselves in the sense that they become very conceited for a girl to handle. Several guys don’t even know on how to do sweet gestures for the girl they love. Much more, there are even those who don’t know on how to throw romantic pick up lines to hook the attention of a certain lady.

There are many sweet romantic pick up lines that can be used by guys. Some are quite effective but some are not. What then are the ten most effective romantic pick up lines that can surely catch the heart of the lady they love? Here are the following, so check it out!

Girls are somewhat narcissistic in nature so every girl will surely love to hear these words,

“How does it feel to be the prettiest woman in the room?”. This is the number one pick up line that can make a woman’s heart jump with joy.

Go Direct and Simple

“I think I love you” is a line that is direct and a little risky but it can make a woman think that you are serious with her. It may sound like he’s a hopeless romantic but it is still a good thing.

“With my luck, you are probably with someone” is a statement that best thrown to a lady who is truly in a serious relationship but if she isn’t, this statement is least flattering.

“My heart skipped a beat when I saw you.” There are lots of cheesy lines, but this one could actually be true. If a guy is really in love with a girl, this line will automatically come out of their mouth.

“Are you as beautiful on the inside as you are on the outside?” A girl loves to hear appreciation from a guy who courts her. She wants to be appreciated not only physically but most especially she wants to be valued as the whole of her being.

The Situational Style

“Let’s walk in the rain.” This is situational. If in case it is raining, the guy must show his playful side to the girl. He must show to her that he is not a boring man.

“Let’s sit by the fire and get warm.” This line becomes more romantic when you’re at a bonfire. This is maybe one of the most irresistible things that a man can say to a girl in this situation.

The Narcissistic Approach

“You are so charming!” As mentioned earlier, girls are narcissistic in nature. This line may boost their confidence but a man must be careful on how he throw this line for it may sound sarcastic to a girl sometimes.

“God was showing off when he made you.” This line is a little bit cheesy. Some girls may not smile when a guy utter this line but the guy knows that somehow he made the girl’s heart bounce with gladness.

“You are the girl of my dreams.” Women want guys who are vocal and have confidence. This line is one of the mainly straight pickup lines; it is also one of the most flattering words.

These ten romantic pick up lines will surely help men to catch steel the heart of their women. But they must use these lines at the right time.

2 AWG Copper Electrical Cables That Are Direct Burial

There are many types of electrical cables out there with different types of insulation that allow it to be exposed to certain environmental conditions. Don’t forget, these cables also need to withstand certain voltage, amperage and temperature requirements depending on the application as well.

As for direct burial cables that have 2 AWG wires in them; a Tray Cable is the most universal type of electrical cable used in the industry. It’s basic, it’s round and it can be placed in conduit or buried directly in the ground if you so choose. The best part about it is the pricing. Copper weight cannot be changed no matter what happens, so if you’re looking for three 2 AWG wires in a jacket that can be protected from underground use then the insulation and the jacket will be the only differences in your search.

If you need a single conductor 2 AWG wire without an additional jacket you can use USE-2 solar panel wire. Don’t assume that it can only be used for solar panels because a 2 AWG copper cable is a 2 AWG copper cable. You’re looking for enough protection to use it underground and the insulation on a USE-2 cable has exactly that.

Some cables that get confused about direct burial are SOOW and Type W. SOOW is oil and water resistant and approved to be used outdoors but not in conduit or underground. Type W is an SOOW cable on steroids as it’s bumped up to 2000 volts from 600 with an additional rubber EPDM jacket for added protection. However, it still cannot be used in conduit or underground. The added protection is meant for industrial use on industrial job sites where machines will be running over the cable day to day.

So if you’re looking for a direct burial single wire you should use USE-2 and if you’re looking for a cable with multiple 2 AWG wires in it then you should use Tray Cable. Talk to your supplier about your application to make sure you’re buying the correct electrical cable. There is also different flexibility options you might want to consider for a slightly higher price.

You might be able to slightly downgrade the cable to save money and spend a less amount on conduit if your object is to save money. There are many scenarios that can be worked out so make sure you at least have the discussion with a professional before diving into an underground cable.