Three Benefits of Using Quality Plastic Food Storage Containers

Just about everybody has had the unfortunate experience of opening their fridge door and instantly being overwhelmed by an unpleasant odor. This could be because some of your food has gone bad or simply because it has not been stored in a good container. Reducing or eliminating the smell is one of the benefits of quality plastic food storage containers.

Another benefit is that your food will stay fresh longer when it is refrigerated, as it will be properly sealed. Having several good quality food containers on hand will also allow you to buy your food in bulk, which is usually cheaper. You can then either put food in the containers and freeze it, or cook it and freeze it.

This will allow you to thaw it out later and reheat it in a microwave oven. If you plan on microwaving the food while it is still in the container, make sure the container is made for use in a microwave. You should also be able to place reusable food containers in the dishwasher.

There are two main types of food containers. One is the disposable kind and the other is the type you can use over and over again. Whatever type you prefer to use, it has to be able to keep the food fresh. You can find different types of containers for specific types of food, such as pasta and herbs. Good containers should seal properly and have lids that won’t bend or warp. The lids should also be easy to place on the container and to remove it.

There is a big difference in the quality of food storage containers on the market because they are made of different materials. They also vary quite a bit in their shape, color, size, and weight. The wide variety of containers means the price range is also quite variable. One of the major benefits of quality plastic food storage containers is that you will not have to throw your food out, as you can safely save it for another day.

Air Conditioning Systems – Primitive to Sophisticated

The Romans had water therapy. They knew the pleasures of sitting by a cool fountain, but it was the ancient Egyptians who started refining the first air conditioning system.

To the Egyptians, the Nile River was the River of Life in many ways. Not only did it provide water for drinking and bathing, but it made farming possible in an otherwise arid landscape. Besides that, the Nile provided water for the first evaporative cooling on a large scale.

For eons, folks knew that putting water inside a semi-porous container, like an unglazed clay pot, resulted in a cool drink because of evaporation cooling. The Egyptians kicked it up a notch when they constructed parapets over which cascaded sheets of water. Slaves equipped with enormous fans stood nearby and kept the air circulating over the moving water. The result: evaporation cooling.

Several ancient cultures also used “wet mats.” We know that Egyptians, Romans, and Greeks all made use of wet mats to cool the air inside homes and other buildings. When a thick, damp cloth was hung over doors and/or windows, the air movement effectively promoted evaporation cooling and could reduce indoor temperature down to as low as about 66° Fahrenheit. The Egyptians even figured out how to make ice!

In the early days of air conditioning, especially in the arid parts of the United States, evaporative cooling was still in broad scale use. The boxy, adobe-style houses of the Southwest often have a roof structure designed to support the considerable weight of a shallow pond. When the roof is flooded, fans blow dry air across the liquid, speeding up evaporation. The cooled air is then routed through the building, a welcome relief in the hot summer months. These coolers, sometimes called “swamp coolers” are economical to operate and are still in use in some areas.

Modern air conditioning systems no longer rely on water for evaporation cooling. Gases like Freon or Puron are the modern refrigerants that lower air temperature. The actual air conditioning unit is usually placed outside the building because it is a harmless and more efficient way to get rid of the inside heat (into the atmosphere).

An important function of today’s AC system is to reduce the humidity levels inside the structure. Keeping the humidity levels low (in the area of 30%) reduces problems with mold and mildew, and helps to alleviate serious health problems for people who suffer with allergies. Also, dust mites find it difficult to survive in low humidity conditions.

When an air conditioning unit is up and running, it works to maintain a pressure level throughout the entire structure. To help the unit work efficiently, doors and windows need to be closed so that the pressure can remain as constant as possible. For spot cooling, consider adding a small fan to move the air right where you need to up the comfort level.

Top 10 Compressed Air Rules of Thumb

Here are the TOP TEN Compressed Air “Rules of Thumb” – designed to respond to the questions that industrial air compressor users ask about most.

1. CFM delivery per Horse Power expected at 100 PSIG:

o For “home owner” type of air compressors—2 to 2.5 CFM per HP

o For Industrial Air-cooled 2-stage air compressors—-3.5 CFM per HP

o For Small Vane & Screw air compressors (25 HP or less) 4 CFM per HP

o For large Piston, Screw & Centrifugal air compressors–4.5 to 5 CFM per HP


2. Air Receiver Size needed for these types of inlet control:

o Modulating Control—————0 to 1 gallon per CFM

o On-Line/Off-Line—————– 3 to 4 gallons per CFM

o Stop-Start/ Variable Speed– 4 to 6 gallons per CFM


3.  Amperage per Horse Power:

115 Volts——-  1 phase——– 10 amps per horse power

230 Volts——-  1 phase——– 5 amps per horse power

208 Volts——-  3 phase——– 3 amps per horse power

230 Volts——-  3 phase——– 2.5 amps per horse power

460 Volts——-  3 phase——– 1.25 amps per horse power

574 Volts——-  3 phase——– 1 amp per horse power


4. Air Piping Size by CFM and Pressure Drop:

o Compressor Room Header—0.25 PSIG pressure drop per 100 feet of piping

o Main Line—————–0.5 PSIG pressure drop per 100 feet of piping

o Loop Line—————–1 PSIG pressure drop per 100 feet of piping

o Branch Line—————2 PSIG pressure drop per 100 feet of piping


5. Size your Compressed Air Line Filters to be twice (2x) your compressor CFM flow rate.

o This will lower your pressure drop 2-3 PSIG and save an additional 1% on electrical energy costs.

o Elements will last twice (2x) as long and this can save on your maintenance costs.

6. Lowering Air Compressor Pressure settings by 2 PSIG will result in a 1% energy savings.

7. Lowering Air Compressor Inlet Air Temperature by 10° F will result in a 2% energy savings.

8. The average energy cost to operate an air compressor is approximately $0.10 per horse power per hour.

9. Compressed Air system leaks totaling the size of a 1/4″ orifice, at 100 PSIG, running 24 hours a day will waste approximately $15,000 worth of electrical energy a year.

10. Using Synthetic Compressor Lubricants can save you up to 9% of the energy cost of operating your compressor as compared to using a non-synthetic lubricant.


CFM= Cubic Feet per Minute  – Volumetric air flow rate.

Inlet Pressure = The actual pressure at the inlet flange of the compressor.

PSIG= Pounds Per Square Inch Gauge

AMPS=Abbreviation of the plural for Ampere, a unit of electrical current

Pressure = Force per unit area, measured in pounds per square inch (psi).

Pressure Dew Point = For a given pressure, the temperature at which water will begin to condense out of air.

Inlet Temperature = The total temperature at the inlet connection of the compressor.

Knowing these “Rules of Thumb” can assist you in understanding many of the basics of compressed air. Applying these tips can help save you time , energy and money.

Why You Should Know About Your Chinese 8 Characters

I have touched a lot on compatibility tests and 8 characters, but have yet to explain clearly what are the 8 characters and why are they important.

By the end of this article, you should have gained some basic knowledge on 8 characters and understand how the 8 characters affect you.

In Chinese astrology, the 8 characters actually refer to a person’s date and hour of birth. There are 4 pillars, namely. . .

1. The Year Pillar

2. The Month Pillar

3. The Day Pillar

4. The Hour Pillar

These 4 pillars form the 8 characters as each pillar is made up of one heavenly stem and one earthly branch.

I can hear you asking, what is a heavenly stem and an earthly branch?And what are their uses?

The heavenly stems and earthly branches are used to represent each year. As you probably know that there are 12 animals in the Chinese zodiac and for each element, there is a different element. The 5 elements and 12 animals form 60 combinations.

After every 60 years, the cycle repeats itself.

The 5 elements actually represent the 10 heavenly stems. There are 2 heavenly stems for each element. One for the “yin” version of that element and the other for the “yang” version.

There are 12 earthly branches, which represents each of the 12 animals in the Chinese zodiac.

For each year, there is one heavenly stem and one earthly branch. Similarly, for each month, each day and each hour, there is also a heavenly stem and an earthly branch.

That is how the 8 characters are derived.

Next, there is something called the luck pillars. The luck pillars are derived from your month pillar, either going backwards or forwards. Depending on whether you are male or female and the year you are born in.

The luck pillar is very important as it determines your luck cycle for a period of 5 to 10 years.

So how do you determine whether your luck cycle is good?

From you 8 characters, you will be able to determine which elements are favorable to you and which are not.

When you encounter favourable elements in your luck pillar, your luck cycles becomes good and vice versa.

From your day pillar, you will determine which element represents you. The next thing is your month of birth. Is the month you are born in favourable to your element?

I will simplify the process here for you. Let’s say you are born on a Wood day, Metal month.

You probably know that Metal destroys Wood. Therefore your Wood is weak. You will need more Wood or Water(Water produces Wood) for your luck cycle to be good.

Whenever you encounter Wood or Water in your luck pillars, your luck cycle becomes good. If you encounter Metal or Fire, your luck cycle becomes bad. As Metal destroys Wood and Fire burns up Wood.

Do you know why people die?

Basing on 8 characters, you can determine if a person will survive through a major illness. Let me explain with a real life story.

I have a friend whose relative was suffering from cancer. I was curious, so I asked for the relative’s date of birth.

This relative’s element was Water, and he was born in Summer, a Fire month. Now, when Water is born in a Fire month, what happens?

The Water gets evaporated right?

Therefore this relative must have Water and Metal(Metal produces Water) in his luck pillars to have a smooth luck cycle. I checked his luck pillars to see if he would survive from the illness.

I was shocked.

He was going through a Fire period for 5 years. From 2003 to 2007, it was all Fire in his luck pillars. He found out that he had cancer in 2006, (Fire Dog year, a double Fire year). I somehow knew that he would not survive because of the “intense Fire” he was going through.

But I kept quiet about it because I did not want my friend to get upset.

Indeed, he passed away in June 2007, which happened to be a Fire Horse month(Double Fire again).

Before that, I actually tried to advise my friend to help his relative improve his luck cycle. But my friend, being a Christian, did not believe in all these.

Things could have improved if he increased Water and Metal in his daily life. But this is where destiny comes into play. As much as I would like to “save him”, but I am unable to. It saddens me.

Let me share another case study. This time it is my brother.

My brother is Earth born in a Metal month. His favourable elements are Fire(Fire produces Earth) and Earth.

I checked out his luck pillars, he was going through a Fire luck pillar. In fact, he started going through the Fire period since the age of 16, and he had 25 years of Fire luck pillar. Before the age of 16, he did not do well in his studies.

Age 16 was his turning point. He has been doing well in every area of his life ever since then.

Therefore from here, you can see that by knowing your 8 characters, you are able to know when are your good times and bad times. You will not be taken by surprise and you can take measures to reduce the effect of the unfavorable elements.

I will share with you how to do it in another article.

Excel Tip – How To Insert Blanks Into Every Other Row In Your Excel Data

This is a regular question or issue that seems to arise with Excel users, (well it does for me anyway).

How to insert a blank line in every other row of your data set?. Lots of the solutions that are available require the user to write some code or macro, which is all good, but some users are not comfortable with VBA. There is an easy way to achieve the same result in Excel without the requirement to write VBA. But I can give you some code to do the same thing as well… if you want it.

OK let’s get some blank rows inserted into our data set. Our data set is set up as the below extract.

Date: Week: Day: WeekDay: User

01/06/15 1 1 11 AmyH

02/06/15 1 2 12 JoeP

03/06/15 1 3 13 PeterH

05/05/15 1 5 15 SuseM

First we need to insert a new column to the left of the existing Column A. (we are assuming our existing data begins in A1), so our data now is contained in column B by inserting a new column A.

The next step is to enter the number one 1 in cell A1 and highlight Column A all the way to the last row of your data set.

You can hit CTRL+SHIFT+DOWN arrow once to quickly do this. ( Dow this twice to select the whole column including cells with no data. You are welcome for the extra Excel shortcut tip!.

  • Select the Home Tab – go to the Edit Group select Fill Series
  • On the Fill Series Hit OK.
  • Column A should now be populated with numbers from 1 to the total number of rows to the end of your data set.
  • CTRL+C to copy the inserted values
  • Go to the next free cell under your data series
  • Hit CTRL+V to paste the values
  • Highlight the entire data area, including the new rows with just a number appearing in Column A
  • Home Tab – Sort and Filter- Smallest To Largest on Column A

Your blank lines will be inserted- in a Flash!

You can then just delete the helper Column A created in the first steps of the process and your job is done. Excel has used the numbering of rows to enable blank rows to be inserted into the work sheet all without any VBA programming.

Nike Dual-Sided Yoga Mat Review

If there’s one brand people associate with sports it has got to be Nike. They make pretty much everything related, and most are pretty good. Take their running line-up for example; the lunar series receives worldwide praise for their design and comfort. Not to mention the clothing range going from high to high, the 2011 collection being especially impressive. When a company with such a track record comes out with a yoga mat, one has to wonder: how good is it? Time to find out.



Whatever happens this product is special by DNA. The dual sided mat does exactly what you’d expect it to do, offering two sides. Each side contains a different texture, which theoretically makes a difference depending on the sports you practise. However in real life I found no major reasons to prefer one side to the other, so I will make no future mention of this in the remainder of this review.

The Nike dual sided yoga mat is definitely a skull turner, partly thanks to its incredible slim design of just 3mm thick. What also helps is the texture on both sides, what Nike claims will help improve the grip – a claim I full heartedly believe. The mat also comes with a handy strap construction for easy transportation.

The dimensions are 66″ long and 24″ wide. I found this to be exactly the right size for me, and I’m pretty tall being close to 6 ft 1. Odds are this mat will be the perfect fit.

Overall the design is pretty satisfying. The little Nike logo in the corner will satisfy brand watchers, while the textures give it a distinct look. Although its radical design will definitely find some opposing winds.


In use

The Nike dual sided yoga mat promises ultimate grip and practicality, two claims I found to be true in use. This mat definitely offers the grip when you need it. Down dogs, hovers, push-ups and triangle poses are all easy to pull off, something not all mats can claim. The practicality is also a given thanks to the strings that come with it. Yoga instructors will find this mat a practical companion wherever they go.

Good points aside, the product definitely has a fair share of issues. One morning I had built up a hefty sweat and the mat failed to absorb it, creating a sudden halt to the grip. It’s also very thin and sometimes hurts my knees in curtain positions, a big problem for a product that claims to be a yoga mat. Finally, after a month of use, the dual sided yoga mat is already showing early signs of wear and tear. The glue between the two sides is letting go around the edges, potentially fatal.



Nike has delivered a product that can best be described as a mixed bag of pleasure and pure disgust. The yoga mat is definitely good-looking, practical and has the perfect dimensions. 3 points most mats already fall short of. Then there’s the flipside; a product that offers almost no cushioning and already shows wear after a few weeks of use. Ultimately the lack of comfort and durability makes this a dodgy purchase for yogis, what a shame.

Allergic Reactions to Wool Carpets and Rugs?

The natural performance of a wool fiber and it’s durable qualities have protected man for over 25,000 years. Wool is actually a hypoallergenic fiber. Those who say they are allergic are most often referring to the prickle and tickle effect of an old wool sweater. Sitting or laying on wool carpets and rugs rarely, if ever, can cause the same effect. No one has ever been treated or diagnosed for anaflactic shock when coming into contact with wool.

Allergies are widespread in the developed world and that problem is increasing for two main reasons:

  • A great number of synthetic substances and petroleum based products are being used in the home.
  • The improved diagnosis of allergic conditions are now available to those suffering from allergies.
  • There is no reason why asthmatic or allergy sensitive people should not enjoy the comfort and good looks of carpets and/or rugs. Wool is non-allergenic and does not promote the growth of dust mites or bacteria. Wool carpet fibers are too long and too coarse to be inhaled and therefore do not affect asthma sufferers. In fact hard surface floors allow airborne particles to be disturbed and whirl into the air causing more irritation for hay fever and asthma sufferers.

    Recent data from Swedens Central Statistics Bureau, Army, and Flooring Association shows that over the past 20 years while the installation of carpet went down with the increase of hard surface installations, the number of allergic people increased dramatically over the same period.

    Wool fibers actually purify indoor air by absorbing air pollutants and gases. Wool fibers absorb common contaminants in indoor air like formaldehyde, nitrogen dioxide and sulphur dioxide, while not releasing VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds). This is one of the reasons why the LEEDS (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) environmental program accepted wool carpets as the only soft surface floor covering in the initial testing of accepted floor covering products. The approved products are rubber, bamboo, linoleum, cork, and, of course, wool. All of these products are also rapidly renewable, biodegradable, and carbon neutral.

    Not only does wool keep the air free of many harmful pollutants, it will not release them, even when heated. It has been estimated that wool carpets can continually purify indoor air for up to 30 years. What a natural and beautiful way to help the earth and improve the comfort in your own home.

    If you hear someone say “I’m allergic to wool”, just keep in mind that another man made myth is now explained and hopefully put to rest.

    Keep Your Goatskin Rug Looking Beautiful Longer

    Animal skin rugs are gaining significance in the world of interior design. These rugs are becoming more popular and in demand. Once you see how they decorate a room, you will understand why. A great many goatskin throw rugs originate in Peru, while the exotic and longer-haired rug versions usually come from Mongolia and China.

    Goatskin rugs remaining in their natural colouring are highly sought after as accent rugs because they are so easy to coordinate with other furnishings. Of course, if you have need of other colours, sizes, and shapes besides what flow naturally, goatskin rugs can be custom-designed and created especially for you and your home interior.

    1. Goatskin rugs are very durable and long-lasting. For goatskin rugs with long, silky, luxurious hair, running a good wire brush through them will keep the pile looking and feeling splendid. A good maintenance routine of regular brushing will refresh the rug’s sheen and glimmer. Always brush in the direction that the hair runs; never go against the hair or backwards.

    2. Gliding gently over the surface of the goatskin rug with a cloth and “white spirit” will also help keep the rug appearing in all its lavishness. It only requires simple care, really, to keep your goatskin rug looking its best for a very long time.

    3. For small and minor spills, act quickly and try to blot up any excess moisture with a clean white wash cloth, a few paper towels, or a sponge. Rinse the cloth or sponge out several times, not wanting to bring any part of the spill that was removed back onto the rug again. If you are using paper towels, throw the used ones away and get new ones to continue blotting.

    Never use a rubbing motion, as that tends to grind the stain into the rug. Gently blot at the area, with a small amount of water/moisture. You do not want to soak an area of your rug with excess water/moisture. You can add a little mild soap and gently try to work a stain or spill out. You should always work from the outer edges into the middle of the area to prevent any possible spreading.

    4. If a deep or stubborn stain appears on your rug, you may want to consult a professional cleaning company and not take any chances on having a spill or stain permanently damage your goatskin rug.

    A natural skin rug will add appeal to any room, along with a feeling of luxury and warmth. Wide assortments of patchwork goatskin rugs that resemble quilts are also available. The mix and match possibilities are endless giving you unparalleled ability to use many themes when decorating your home with goatskin rugs.

    You can also hang hide rugs on your walls. When you do so, they can become a work of art. For large, bare walls that could use something unique to fill their space, consider an Animal skin rug. It is the latest in fashion design trends!

    Cleaning Up Protein Shake Stains on the Carpet

    Building a strong and fit body is surely one thing that many men and women desire. It is not easy to accomplish though as you would need to constantly work out as well as eat the right kinds of foods to help you achieve this goal. One drink which many people try to help them get the muscles that they want is protein shakes. It is really healthy and provides the body with a high amount of protein which helps in the muscle’s development and growth.

    While protein shakes can be very helpful in giving us the right nutrients for staying fit and healthy, it can also bring about some problems when it comes to cleaning your home. There are many instances when people accidentally drop or spill the protein shake that they are drinking on their carpets which in turn results in a very ugly stain that affects the way that their carpeting looks.

    Knowing how to clean up this mess is vital if you want to get your carpet back to normal. If you are facing this type of predicament at home, follow the great tips below to guide you in solving this carpet cleaning problem.

    • Scooping up the spilled protein shake on the carpet is something that you should do right away. Don’t let too much time pass before doing this as it could mean that the liquid would be able to penetrate the padding of your carpet.

    • Use a medicine dropper and add a couple of drops of water on the stain which is left behind on your carpet. This is going to help dilute the stain and make it a lot more manageable to remove. Use a paper towel to blot the area for a minute or so before going to the next step.

    • Mix ¾ cup of white vinegar with ½ cup of warm water into a small container. This will serve as the cleaning solution which will help break down the ugly stain that is left on your carpet. After you have mixed these two ingredients, pour some of it on the stained area of the carpet and then let it stand for five minutes.

    • Gradually blot the protein shake stain on the carpet using a clean white cloth. Make your way from the outer portion of the stain moving inwards. Continue to perform this until you are able to remove all of the stain.

    • Flush out the residue that could be left behind on your carpet by rinsing it with a glass of water. Dry the carpet using clean rags and then you’re done cleaning up the protein shake stain on your carpet completely.

    How To Make Homemade Carp Boilies Using an Expert Recipe And Flavour Secrets!

    So many more anglers are making their own homemade baits these days but need guidance. Knowing how to create baits to beat readymade baits is a very exciting edge indeed! Such boilies do not have to be made using rocket science, however using information based on more scientific research used together with actual practical fishing testing results and bait refinement is a powerful combination you can exploit to beat expensive readymade baits; so read on now and catch more fish in winter or summer!

    So you want to make your own boilies? Please be prepared for some unexpected comments here, which are the result of three decades of making homemade baits to beat readymade boilies and mixes!

    Although boilies have caught more big carp than any other bait format think about the bigger picture. The bigger picture is that boilies have remained within a very similar set of general characteristics for well over three decades and very many carp are today highly sensitive to boilies possibly with hooks attached. Boilies are very familiar to carp since the seventies and before when special paste baits were made with eggs instead of water in order to make them last longer and be more resilient.

    Things back in the old days were very different to today. The vast majority of carp anglers used special paste baits and these often have relatively simple recipes and were highly water soluble compared to heated paste made into boilies that contained eggs. I make this point because it underlines something very profound. In my experience boiled baits or steamed baits have dramatic reduction in effectiveness due to the cooking and sealing process that occurs when the albumin proteins and other in the eggs and baits coagulate and so harden or toughen boilies.

    The ingredients, additives and so on you choose really are not operating best in a sealed ball or cylinder or whatever shape of solid. The point is that conventional boilies work best when very well hydrated with water so allowing soluble substances to leach out effectively into the water column to pull in carp to your baits. This means the boilies are leaching the ingredients of the bait into solution and actually working instead of baits remaining solid and totally intact and thus barely producing any concentration of signals for carp to home in on. When baits are hard and intact and not hydrated they give off the least signals into solution to draw fish into your swim and be further stimulated into feeding so hydration by one means or substance or another is of paramount importance in order to maximise impacts on fish!

    My advice for the average carp angler aiming to get into making homemade baits is to aim to begin by making special pastes. But what do I mean by special pastes? You can learn an enormous amount about bait formulation by making small batches of paste. I am one angler that has had numerous forty pound carp using homemade pastes against massed competition from groups of anglers using readymade boilies such as the many very popular boilies from Mainline.

    I began my carp fishing in Essex and so have many links and connections with carp fishing as it evolved through the late seventies up until today, even witnessing the field testing of the original swinger bite indicators (from cliff Fox and his mate Colin.)

    A number of us on an Essex reservoir syndicate were originally actually using these far more as fish locators in a swim than as mere bite indicators that indicated a hooked fish. We used the very first swinger indicators as fish number, movement and behaviour indicators from liners observed and patterns observed in the indicator movements.

    We were all trying different homemade indicator designs at that time to reduce, add or remove friction or unnecessary line tension completely as we knew doing this would improve catches in many ways!

    At the time this was happening we were all making our own baits. I had come from fishing club ponds and local Essex day ticket lakes using special pastes. These had little more sophistication than ranging from Marmite mixed with bread and water, to using mashed up sausage meat mixed with herbs, spices, wheat flour and eggs and maybe a cake baking propylene glycol or water and alcohol based flavour.

    Such baits in the early days were fished straight on big hooks directly on the line and cast out with no added weight on the line. The tips of the rods pointed down towards the water while the butts were supported on ridiculously long bank sticks. When fishing at long range and by that I mean maybe 50 meters often actually getting enough force to pull the hook through the bait in order to hook a fish could be a real problem. The rods were much softer action than today and many carp rods available back then only had a one and a half pound test curve if that.

    I fished using pike rods bought from a friend, which had a test curve of one and three quarter pounds and this certainly gave me more control and ironically I caught my very first twenty pound carp and twenty pound pike on these pike rods using carp baits!

    I know these days there has been a wealth of baits made commercially available and for instance today we have an awesome array of pellets. I mention these because ground trout pellets used to be a favourite part of some carp pastes and boilies and were far more commonly used in many ways than even today. Ground trout pellets with ground up bird seeds, Phillips yeast mixture, egg binder and other nutritional ingredients and additives formed a very well known type of paste and boilie.

    But the aim here is to show you a different way to create carp fishing boilies. Get away from the most common and most familiar ingredients and additives that commercial bait makers have used for decades and you will certainly reap big rewards often right from the very first cast!

    In fact arguably the most potent moment in using a new bait really is the very first cast! This might mangle the minds of those addicted to nutritional bait theory teamed with baiting triangle theory but experiences add up over and over again that lead me to say this about the potency of the very first casts using a completely new and unique bait recipes!

    At this point in time no fish have experienced being hooked on these new baits and so have the least reason to feed with caution and suspicion on the new baits!

    Using totally unique new homemade boilies is a massive edge I can assure you! Time after time I have sought to hook big fish with totally new bait recipes right from the first cast and had upper thirty and forty pound carp using such baits of my own designs.

    I get loads of anglers contact me about making homemade baits and so many appear to have the wrong idea in that they mistakenly think that simply ordering a massive load of ingredients and liquids and putting them together into a significant batch of baits will be enough.

    Taking a totally new bait recipe to a hard water without ever having trialed that bait on easier waters and not having even refined and fine tuned any parts of it is just fishing on luck, that is unless you have years of experience and basically make baits based almost purely on intuition!

    In my own opinion if you are looking for a recipe to give miracles then think about the implications of this. If you do well on this bait what will happen? In the vast majority of big carp waters I have ever fished fish wise up and feed more cautiously on a new bait once enough carp have been hooked. This means you are basically using a bait which fish now associate with danger and this can dramatically impact upon your ability to hook fish while they feed so craftily if they do continue to feed on the bait.

    These days, just because a bait is highly nutritionally attractive this does not actually guarantee that once enough fish get hooked on it that fish will refuse to eat it and I state this having witnessed this many times when testing popular readymade boilies which are nutritional active enzyme type food baits.

    I have used made countless unusual types of original homemade baits which are active in many ways and I have frequently designed bait recipes based on substances not commonly associated with carp fishing; and certainly the ways of approaching making carp baits is legion.

    Just one way of approaching initially designing carp baits is to find out far more information about why and how carp actually detect bait substances, and to what degree they are sensitive to these substances!

    But this alone is not enough and I definitely consider that finding out what bait substances do when in contact with water, and in contact with carp sensory receptors and related systems, and internal processes is vitally important! All these things make a very dramatic difference in how potent you can make your baits and how easily you can bypass fish caution and induce the strongest most intensive, most confident fish feeding!

    There is nothing like it to experience carp feeding on your very own homemade baits in such a state of stimulation that you are literally anticipating a take from a big fish at any second, and then it happens right on cue!

    I know many anglers are price conscious and I know how important it is to not waste time and money on bait that is not actually the most potent solution! One of the reasons I did not simply buy readymade baits over 30 plus years of big carp fishing is due to having to economise firstly and secondly because I knew for a fact I could make baits for less money that would catch as many if not more big fish than any readymade bait available. To earn that kind of confidence from all the hard times and great times took countless thousands of hours testing baits methodically and comparing results in different conditions, in different weather and different seasons all year round.

    If you have any fears about making your own homemade baits you have no reason to worry! I discovered that there are no mistakes in making carp baits; there are merely results that teach! That means that no matter what recipe you put together you have the opportunity to learn from it.

    So if this means you made a bait that was too sticky, or broke down far too quickly, then you can use other experiences of making different recipes that maybe go very hard, and stay physically intact for far more hours than you really need maybe, but the mix perhaps binds together perfectly and rolls like a dream. I do not favour rolling of boilie paste but I am a contrary type of person and know the benefits of not doing this totally unnecessary procedure which in effect makes your homemade baits act and feel like all those millions of machine rolled commercial boilies!

    This is not the aim of making homemade boilies at all though, because the best benefits and competitive edges of making your own baits are in the fact that you can control and make different every conceivable factor, mode of action, feature, characteristic etc that the machine rolled readymade baits actually have that cause fish to be wary of them!

    But again I state that there are no mistakes in making homemade carp baits! Sometimes mixes will simply not roll, and sometimes they roll but then melt when steamed. Sometimes experimental bottom bait mixes will float. But all these are absolutely invaluable because all these can be creatively used as powerful solutions to fishing problems and opportunities you encounter, and the more you make homemade baits the more creative solutions and competitive edges you actually build up in your very own personal arsenal!

    Bait making mistakes might at first appear to be mistakes but then they always have a lesson. As a result of my boilie recipe designing endeavours I have utilised my mistakes for making far more potent particle mixes and ground baits of all formats, from stick mixes, spod and slop mixes, to pastes and method mixes and even different uniquely potent treatments for meat, fish and sea food baits and even foam, rubber and plastic hook bait balancers and other fake baits etc.

    Even if you begin your bait making days by choosing to use gram flour (chick pea flour) instead of soya flour in a cheap 50:50 soya and semolina base mix, or maybe abalone extract instead of Belachan powder for instance, you will reap the rewards of being different! Personally the last thing I would do is make a homemade bait using soya and semolina because I know such a base mix really is a massive wasted opportunity to make a seriously potent bait you can have every confidence with easily equal or even beat any readymade bait. Bait potency is something really important in terms of internal effects of baits on fish, and even a minimal inclusion of some substances can make a huge difference to your results, and this may be an unusual extract of a fruit or bark, or root, or leaf, or marine extract or whatever it happens to be.

    If you use liquid Robin Red, why use the straight out of the bottle version when nearly everyone on the planet has access to it and carp are so very familiar with Robin Red components in powder and liquid form?

    From my perspective everything can be improved if merely by altering a level of something, or its concentration, or its potency in some way. For instance what if you added to liquid Robin Red a flavour based on liquid lecithin and natural esters, and uncommon spice essential oils and components for example? Such things may seem small changes yet they provide carp with a new and unique experience which could easily encourage them to feed and bypass their natural caution!

    Many anglers get really scared of flavours. The funny thing about flavours is that they encompass a gigantic range of substances far beyond commonly used synthetic flavours, nature identical flavours, partly natural flavours and so on. Understanding far more about flavour substances is a massive edge!

    Carp can identify substances in solution or very partial solution down to a few parts per billion and you can exploit this incredibly acute sensitivity to multiple maximum effects using flavour substances, and these may also be sweeteners or taste enhancers, palatants or appetite stimulators! Revealed in my unique readymade bait and homemade bait carp and catfish bait secrets ebooks is far more powerful information look up my unique website (Baitbigfish) and see my biography below for details of my ebooks deals right now!

    By Tim Richardson.

    Tiling Onto A Wooden Floor

    When most people think of tiling, what comes to mind is usually basic information that’s not particularly interesting or beneficial. But there’s a lot more to tiling than just the basics.

    The best time to learn about tiling is before you’re in the thick of things. Wise readers will keep reading to earn some valuable tiling experience while it’s still free.

    When tiling onto a wooden floor you need to bear in mind it’s different than tiling onto a concrete floor.

    There are many different things you can do and make sure you do before laying ceramic or porcelain tiles onto a wooden floor.

    1. When tiling onto floor boards, you will firstly need to lay down 18mm thick floor grade plywood which needs to be screwed down every 30cm centres. You can use a single part flexible adhesive but I use a two part flexible tile adhesive. This is the belt and braces way of doing it.

    2. When tiling onto chipboard you will need to do the same as above if you follow a strict adhesives guidelines – but you can use thinner plywood going down to 12mm if the chipboard floor is already solid and screwed down at 30cm centres. Then screw the plywood down in the same way.

    3. When putting Under Floor Heating onto a wooden floor, you would firstly need to put down an insulation board. You can fix this down to your existing floor with a 2 part flexible adhesive and then screw it down at 30cm. Now you can lay the under floor heating mat or cable on top of your insulation board. It’s best to use a flexible self-level compound to cover the cables, then you can tile on top using a two part flexible adhesive.

    4. If you have a situation were raising the floor might be a problem then you can use a product like Schluter-DITRA. This is a polyethylene membrane with a grid structure of square cavities each cut back in a dovetail construction, and an anchoring fleece laminated to its underside. Designed for tile and natural stone installations and under floor heating Schluter-DITRA not only serves as a waterproofing membrane but also a vapour pressure equalisation layer to accommodate moisture occurring at the underside of the substrate. It’s also an uncoupling layer for problematic substrates such as wooden floors, etc.

    DITRA mat is only 3mm thick and you can use a two part flexible tile adhesive to stick it down. You can lay the matting straight down onto your floorboards if they have no movement up or down. Make sure the floorboards are flat and are screwed down to the joists – any natural movement will be taken up with the DITRA mat.

    Laying onto chipboard will be the same way as onto floorboards. You can tile on top of the DITRA mat with a two part flexible adhesive. Again a single part adhesive can be used but a two-part adhesive is better.

    I hope this is of some help.

    That’s the latest from the tiling authorities. Once you’re familiar with these ideas, you’ll be ready to move to the next level.

    Meat Glue: When, Why, and How It’s Dangerous

    “Meat glue” is a natural enzyme found in plants and animals which causes blood to clot. Recently, scientists have discovered how to mass produce the enzyme using bacteria, and that spreading it between two pieces of meat will cause the muscle fibers and proteins to fuse together, almost as if they were a single cut. Chefs have used meat glue for all kinds of creative purposes, forming proteins into all kind of wacky shapes, like spaghetti made entirely of shrimp. The meat industry uses it to pass off left-over scraps as filet mignon.

    The enzyme itself is not dangerous when used correctly, and is labelled “generally recognized as safe” by the FDA. When used in reasonable quantities, it breaks down and becomes inactive in the process of gluing meat together, any cooking heat will and the human stomach can also quickly break it down with no ill effect. In its active, powdered form, it can be irritating to the skin, and could cause damage to the nose, mouth, or esophagus if inhaled or swallowed. But the same could be said of a lot of household chemicals. If you’re worried that food producers might accidentally contaminate your steak with too much, well, there’s a lot of things that food producers might accidentally contaminate you with. I don’t imagine the enzyme is especially harmful compared to the multitude of drug-resistant diseases in the world, and most food companies take this stuff very seriously, since they’re personally responsible if their product hurts someone. I’ve also heard that you can tell if the enzyme is still working because it will smell like wet dog (yet another reason to always sniff your meat before cooking).

    Those with celiac’s disease or any sensitivity to gluten may want to pay attention to meat glue in the near future. Research appears to be preliminary, but it seems that the enzyme has an interesting response to gluten. Under certain conditions, the enzyme can make gluten even more allergenic, meaning that gluten free products with only trace amounts of gluten could become problematic. Other research says that meat glue may be used to render gluten entirely non allergenic. In the mean time, my recommendation is to source your meat carefully for now, and keep an eye on the news for further information.

    Finally, we come to the real problem of meat glue, which has nothing to do with the enzyme itself and everything to do with its deceptive nature and the fact that it puts the outsides of meat back on the inside.

    Most of us are aware that it is relatively safe to eat a steak rare, but that ground beef should be cooked all the way through to prevent food poisoning. That’s because bacteria and viruses don’t often penetrate meats; they just sit on the very outer surface. Ground beef, and meat glued products, have surfaces that could have been exposed to disease all the way through to the center, and have to be cooked accordingly. But because meat glue products look and are sold as ordinary steaks, consumers may not know that eating them rare could expose them to all kinds of serious food-borne illnesses. Steaks that have been reassembled from parts are now required to be labelled as such, but it is left to the consumer to find that label, understand what that means, and to cook it accordingly. An even bigger potential danger comes from restaurants, who are not required to pass that warning label on to you. Most responsible, high end restaurants understand the dangers involved with such products, and will handle them safely if they choose to use them at all. But if you’re not sure, don’t be afraid to ask where the meat comes from, and order them well if there’s any uncertainty left.

    Final word: The glue itself probably won’t hurt you, but if you like your steaks bloody, be absolutely sure to get the genuine article.

    How a Deluge System Works

    Deluge fire fighting systems are purposely designed to disperse a large volume of water, or in some cases a combination of water and chemical fire retardant, over a designated area in a short amount of time.

    Deluge systems are typically installed in areas where the risk of an extreme fire is very high, such as at industrial plants, refineries and storerooms or warehouses containing propellants and other highly flammable material. Deluge systems may also be installed in exit corridors to ensure safe passage out of a potentially hazardous zone and in large spaces with high ceilings (such as aircraft hangars) where the spray of water from the traditional sprinkler systems becomes ineffectual due to the distance between the sprinkler head and the fire.

    Deluge systems differ from the traditional sprinkler systems in several respects. In a typical deluge system the sprinkler heads are open, they do not contain a fire sensing component and the flow of water is controlled from a single point called the deluge valve. Once the deluge valve has been opened the water will flow out of all the attached sprinklers and the “deluge” begins.

    The deluge valve can be activated by either manual or automatic mechanisms. For example: a pull lever, an alarm panel switch, or an automatic non-powered system that holds back the deluge with air pressure until the fire opens a head actuated device which releases the air pressure allowing the flow of water.

    Deluge systems can be activated in the following ways:

    1. Manually

    2. Hydraulically (via a glass bulb detector)

    3. Pneumatically (via a glass bulb detector)

    4. Electrically (via a fire detector)

    In a deluge valve, you will find that they are hydraulically operated. Different types of valves are used to control the supply of water to a deluge system. Open nozzles and sprinklers are used in deluge systems. The choice of design and the manner in which the deluge valve is controlled varies in accordance to the circumstances of the environment and the potential fire hazard. If you are thinking about getting a deluge system installed, make sure you consult an expert for tailored advice for your situation.

    Pan Gulf Products specializes in the supply and stocking of low priced and yet high quality industrial products such as, Deluge Valves, D3 Nozzles HV Nozzles, Mulsifyre Nozzles, Monitors and much more. Please contact us today for details on our complete product range.

    Black Truffle Cleaning and Recipes

    Cleaning The Black Truffle

    When you have fresh black winter truffles, do not clean them until your are ready to eat them. Other wise they will spoil quicker. Remove any soil from the black truffles just before using them in any recipe. They must be washed with water and a nail brush under running water. The truffle must be completely clean since they will be used unpeeled. Dry well with a paper towel.

    The black truffle (Tuber Melanosporum) must always be used as a condiment, not as a food. Use only fresh truffles, if possible. To enjoy and appreciate the black truffles, 100 g is enough. With this amount we can make several recipes.

    How to use black truffles to flavor food.

    Use an airtight container and put together the food you want to flavor with the black truffle. Close the container and leave it in the fridge for at least 24 hours. The aroma of the black truffle will penetrate the food in the sealed container. The black truffle aroma adheres to fatty foods best.

    Truffled eggs

    Take half a dozen eggs and place them in an airtight container with a fresh black winter truffle, washed and wrapped in paper towel, but not completely wrap the truffle. Close the container and put in the fridge for two days. The high porosity of the eggshell will allow the aroma of the truffle to penetrate the eggs. Then you can use these eggs to make truffled flan, use in stuffing or just eat them fried. You can add a little sliced garlic to the hot olive oil before frying the eggs. Fry the eggs when the garlic is slightly brown. These truffled eggs will delight your palate.

    Risotto Parmesan with Black Truffles

    Can be severed as a starter or a main course

    Serves 2 – 4 people.


    150g black truffles

    320g rice

    120g grated Parmesan cheese

    50g butter

    Half a tablespoon heavy cream


    Boil the rice until it is al dente and drain well. Add the butter, cream, Parmesan and about half of the grated black winter truffles. Stir until it is well mixed and serve hot, garnish each plate with a generous amount of the remaining winter truffle shavings.

    Salad with Black Truffle


    3 Hard Boiled Eggs

    2 large handfuls of green beans

    1 medium sized lettuce

    1 large handful of Rucola

    1 Bunch of dill

    70g black winter truffle

    Creamy Dressing

    4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

    3 tablespoons creme fraiche

    3 tablespoons double cream

    2 tablespoons of lemon juice

    2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

    Cayenne pepper



    Wash the lettuce & rucola and shake off the access water. Let drain in a collander while preparing the dressing. Top and tail the green beans, then boil them in salted water until tender. Remove and wash in cold water, then mix in with the lettuce and rucola.

    The dressing is prepared by mixing all the above ingredients together in no particular order. NOTE – The cayenne pepper is added at the end.

    Place the mixed rucola, lettuce and green beans on a plate. Slice the boiled eggs and truffles over the bed of lettuce, adding the dill.

    Finally, add the creamy dressing over the salad.

    Stuffed Chicken Breasts with Black Winter Truffles


    4 chicken breasts

    80g Fontina cheese

    80g prosciutto ham (Parma-type)

    30g butter

    1 small onion

    1 glass dry sherry

    1 medium sized black winter truffle


    Extra virgin olive oil



    Fresh ground pepper


    Slice the chicken breast lengthways without completely separating. Flatten with a meat mallet and lightly salt, pepper and flour. Place two slices of ham, a slice of Fontina cheese and a thin layer of black winter truffle inside each wallet or chicken breast. Close and sew up with kitchen twine or using wooden toothpicks. Brown the chopped onions in the oil and butter in a large pan. When they start to soften, add the chicken breasts and brown on both sides, wet with the sherry and cook, adding a small amount of broth if necessary. Serve very hot. Accompany with wild rice or boiled potatoes.

    How To Perm Hair: Winding and Sectioning Technique

    Before you start winding the hair, you need to separate the hair into manageable sections. This will make the hair easier to manage and looks professional. Sectioning the hair makes the rest of the perming process easier and quicker. After shampooing and towel drying the client’s hair, comb the hair to eliminate any knots or tangles. Ensure you have all the perming tools handy.

    There are three different sectioning patterns.

    1. Six Section

    2. Brick

    3. Directional

    Six Section

    The Six Sectioning pattern divides the head into six sections Divide the hair into two sections, front (4,6,5) and back (3,1,2). Divide the front section just above the middle of the eyebrow, to give a middle (6) and two sides (4 and 5).

    The middle section (6) should not be any wider than the curler. Now divide the back section the same, to give a middle (1) and two sides (3 and 2).

    Brick Winding

    Brick winding is when the perm curlers are positioned in a brickwork pattern. This winding technique prevents any gaps in the hair, so you will not have any partings. Brick winding is ideal for short fine hair and should be started at the front of the head.


    Directional winding is when the hair is wound in a certain direction. It will help create a flow in the direction the client wants. It is perfect for clients who want a parting.

    Winding Technique

    After placing the hair into the required sectioning you will need to wind the hair.

    ·Hair should be kept damp.

    ·Take a small sub-section of hair, smaller length and thickness of a curler.

    ·The width of the section should be inside the width of the curler.

    ·Comb the hair upwards, this will cause root lift.

    ·Hold hair evenly and tight.

    ·The curler should be at 90 degrees angle from the head shape.

    ·Put an end paper on the ends of the hair; if you don’t the ends will look frizzy at the end of the perm.

    ·The end paper helps make the winding process easier.

    ·Wind the hair down slowly, keeping the hair evenly tight.

    ·Guide the hair ends round the curler with tail comb. If the ends do not go under the curler. The hair can become “fish-hooked” and frizzy.

    ·Keep the curler level.

    ·The curler should be in the centre of the sub-section.

    ·Secure the curler by fastening the rubber bond or clip.

    ·The curler should sit on it’s base and not obstruct the next curler’s positioning.

    ·There should be no gaps between the curlers.

    ·If using a band rubber, be careful of placing it to close to the root area, as this can cause a rubber mark on the hair.