S10 Lift Kit – The Truth About S10 Lift Kits

Post World War II, the market was flooded with light off-road vehicles like the Jeep. There were also heavier trucks. The Jeep owed its popularity to being a utility vehicle. This marked the beginning of the off-roading hobby, as the Jeep successfully transformed from being a wartime vehicle to become a civilian one.

Truck owners look to add accessories to their vehicles whether they are owners of a Chevy, Nissan, Toyota, GMC, Dodge, Ford, or any other make of vehicle.

If you want to pursue off-roading as a hobby you need a lift kit on your truck.
Lift kits of many varieties in the market promise to transform the look of your truck.
They also help you make a style statement, as anyone without a lift is looked down as being low-life.

A lift kit installed in your vehicle makes off-roading safer and easier. It gives better ground clearance. Also it bolsters your suspension to make for great 4X4 driving.
Better ground clearance will make it easier to drive over rocky or rutted terrain.

The installation process is very easy, and your truck could soon have extra height or lift, depending on your choice. Balance and alignment should be the chief concerns, if you decide to lift your truck.

There are two types of lifts: body lifts and suspension lifts. Body lifting is done using a system of blocks to raise your vehicle above the under frame of your vehicle.

If the visual effect is what all you want and the performance of your vehicle off-road takes a backseat then you can opt for body lift. It is cheaper compared to suspension lifting. But if you want to really enjoy your off-road riding and are ready to pay for it, then you should opt for a suspension lift.

What capacity the lift kit gives depends on whether you want a total lift or only a mid-rise. Bumper brackets form part of a good kit. The make of your truck will help determine how much lift you should give it.

Various manufacturers of S10 lift kits claim that their product insures better ground clearance, minimizes adverse impact from your off-road drive, and gives your vehicle a rugged look.
It is better to get the installation done by a professional. The price is in the range of $ 100-500 depending on the type of lift kit you select, as well as the source from which you buy.

Residential Elevators – A Practical Addition to Your Home

Residential elevators are a practical addition to your home, to enhance your home style and are highly convenient for floor-to-floor accessibility. Residential elevators provide a quiet and comfortable means of transportation for physically challenged people in and around the home. A home elevator increases the value of your home, besides endowing it with an added elegance.

Make the Best Use of the Available Space in Your Home

Residential elevators are a great addition to multi-storied buildings. These are safe, durable and almost maintenance free. Utilizing a residential elevator, you can make your home more accessible, safe and secure for your loved ones. Installing these elevators during the construction of a new home or keeping provision for one is always advisable.

Quality Features

o Quiet, smooth traction drive system for energy efficient operation.
o Carriage interior finished with melamine paneling, non-skid flooring and handrail.
o Requires low maintenance.
o Self closing, half-swing bi-fold doors allow easy access for wheelchair users.
o Emergency access is available at every landing.

Choose the Elevator that Best Fits Your Needs

o LEV – The number one selling home elevator on the market today combines cutting-edge elevator technology with extraordinary value.
o Rise Elevator – These pit-less elevators are widely used elevators that come with different car sizes, in brass or stainless steel accents and automated gate opener.
o Windsor – Ideally suited for installing in existing homes, this is compact, inexpensive and is a perfect solution for the 2-floor home.

Residential elevators are customized to meet unique needs and challenges. While choosing an elevator you should consider how often you will really use the device, the number of people it should accommodate, its speed, functions and price. When you consider these elements, you will be able to pick out the best residential elevator for your home.

New SnapStone Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile Review

If you are thinking about use the new SnapStone Porcelain Floor Tile that is out now, you will want to take the time to read this. I decided to use this tile in my bathroom in a very old house. The results that I got with this tile were much better then I expected that it would be.

When the floor of my old bathroom got so bad that I could no longer take the pain of looking at it, I decides that it was past time to do something new. The problem was that I live in a very old house that was severely neglected for many years and even the piping froze one winter, causing water damage to the floors of the house. The bathroom floor was just covered with cheap stick down linoleum tile that no longer was being held in place by anything other then the weight of the tile. If you had sticky wet feet the tile would stick to your feet and come up as you walked on it. Something definitely had to be done.

As I was looking through the local big box store, I notice the SnapStone porcelain tile. It looked like just the thing that was needed for my situation. I did some research and found no major problems from people. I talked to the salesman in the store and of course they recommended the product highly. So, I decided to take the plunge and purchase the tile. The price of the tile was on the upper end of the scale, but not have to totally rip up the floor and redo the subfloor was going to offset that cost. The flexible grout that is to be used with this tile also was high priced, but if the floor was going to flex, then the grout had better flex too. The other great attraction to this tile system was that I figured that I could start the project and finish it in one night. The bathroom was only about 40 sq. ft. of floor, so it was a small project.

I started the floor in the evening on a Friday night after everyone had their showers. The cutting of the tile went well with my 4″ battery angle grinder and a 4″ diamond cut wheel. The backer on the tile allowed for the imperfections in the existing floor. Snapping the tiles together, took some hammering with my rubber mallet, and the last tiles I forced together using a small pry bar, hooking the bar over the end of the tile and pulling it forcefully in place. I had some problems with the whole floor assembly moving around, being that the bathroom was so small and the tile floats, allowing it to move as the tiles were snapped together. Constant checking was required to make sure the floor was staying where it was supposed to be.

The tile part went real well and a few hours later I was mixing the grout and grouting the seams. The SnapStone system worked great at holding the gaps for the grout joints. The special grout worked well and went in easily. The main thing to watch is that the grout will settle in the joint and refilling of the joint is usually necessary, as the grout settles. The tile washed easily and after the 24 hour time period required, you could walk on it. I did restrict the traffic for a couple more days, to make sure that the grout setup well before heavy traffic was allowed on the floor.

Overall, I have been very satisfied with the product and the way the floor has turned out. The base was very bad and the floor still seems to be holding up well. I you have a problem floor, or are just looking for an easy way to lay a porcelain tile floor, then I would recommend this product.

What’s Hanging? Why It’s Considered Bad Luck to Walk Under a Ladder

Black cats, Friday the 13th, sidewalk cracks and ladders all have something in common. They are part of a long tradition of superstitions. Superstitions are plentiful in every culture, tradition, industry and career. Baseball teams are full of rituals and superstitions. Theatre has lively and entertaining superstitions. Common superstitions include bad luck the follows cracking a mirror or walking under a ladder. Whether bad luck follows when walking under a scaffold or scissor lift is still somewhat unclear. The origins of superstitions are fascinating bits of historical fact and speculation.

Walking under a ladder is discouraged and said to be bad luck. If someone is working with a chain saw, welding torch or hydrochloric acid the bad luck could be immediate. Practical considerations aside, there is a long history of superstition attached to walking under a ladder. There are several theories as to where this belief originates. One theory holds that the ladder forms a triangle either on it’s own with the ground as the bottom section, or with the wall it is leaning against. In ancient Egypt the shape of a triangle was considered a powerful form. Just consider the shape of the pyramids. Walking through the shape was thought to bring bad luck. This may dishearten all the people that spent years trying to work the spell of pyramid power. The Christian tradition holds the same concept in the idea of the Trinity. Walking under a ladder was seen as breaking the trinity and aligning with the devil.

Other beliefs concerning bad luck and walking under a ladder come from the fates of medieval fighters walking under ladders when trying to take a castle. Hot oil was often poured on those climbing up a ladder and those underneath would be showered with scalding liquid. Gallows weren’t always available or used for hangings. Ladders would be used for executions. The superstition suggests that ghosts live beneath ladders and walking through would disturb them.

Theatre’s and theatre life is filled with superstitions. In a theatre Shakespeare’s play Macbeth is always referred to as “That Scottish Play”. Mentioning or quoting lines from the play, especially in a dressing room is said to invoke the curse. Some of the more famous incidents include; a world war II production of the play with John Geilgud in which four actors died, an 1849 riot that broke out at a performance at Astor Place in New York where 31 people died, in 1947 a young actor playing Macbeth crawled off stage and died of a stab wound. It is reported that he failed to stop reciting lines in the dressing room.

The list of tragedies is lengthy and provocative. Laurence Olivier was nearly killed when he played Macbeth. A weight came tumbling down an crashed inches from him. On opening night of that production, the owner of the theatre had a heart attack and died. During the production the tip of Oliver’s sword broke off and hit an audience member who had a heart attack and died. Some believe that Shakespeare used an actual witch’s spell when writing the part of the witches. Others say he used real witches in the opening play. Others believe it is a play with a lot of fight scenes in dim light, making it a hazardous play to perform. Whatever the origin, superstitions exist and have taken on a life of their own.

Stairs Made of Wood Versus Concrete Stairs

Wood is one material that has won the hearts of many homeowners when it comes to their interiors and furnishings. Every home is bound to have something that is made out of wood. After all, it’s a very classic material. Wood is timelessly beautiful. Even when it comes to stairs, wood still plays a key role in most homes and to further reinforce this, here are the advantages of a wood staircase versus concrete stairs:

Wood is definitely safer to use. Indeed, it is better to fall on wooden stairs than on concrete stairs. The reason behind this is pretty obvious, wood offers better cushioning in case something lands on it. This is indeed good news for homes with little ones who tend to regularly fall on their butts. Their chances in developing fractures and the like are lessened when using the stairs made of wood.

If you also talk about the building point of view, stair builders have a divided preference when it comes to the wood vs. concrete debate, although most say concrete is easier to work with. Besides, wood planks are more expensive if you replace them than redoing a concrete mixture.

When it comes to your interior stairs, wood definitely sets a homey ambience to complete a home’s look. Ever notice that welcoming feel you get in a home with lots of wood furnishings? The same goes for stairs made of lumber, nothing spells ‘home’ more than wood. It sets off a cozy tone as opposed to a the hard, condescending aura of concrete. For the offices, concrete spells “corporate” out quite well, but wood can also add a Zen touch, something the office could use to reduce stress in the area.

The wooden alternative will also cause less and will be easier to renovate and change as opposed to the concrete version. Renovating and fixing the stairs will be easier if it is made out of wood. Just in case your wood staircase needs fixing, you can visit your local home depot or a trusted online stair parts supplier to get the quality stair parts you deserve at a reasonable price.

Speaking of price, be it known that wooden stair parts are more expensive and they also cost more money, time and effort to maintain and to keep beautiful.

At the end of the day, it still depends on which attributes of wood or concrete are the ones which you prioritize. Your staircase is your investment. Make it count.

The Fender Telecaster Guitar – 10 Interesting Facts

The Fender Telecaster guitar has quite rightly been amazingly popular for many years because of its good looks and particularly distinctive sound, which is very effective in country music and blues. It has of course very often been utilised in other musical genres too.

The guitar has not surprisingly acquired a large number of famous guitar playing admirers through the years including Keith Richards, Jimmy Page, Andy Summers and Bruce Springsteen.

Listed below are 10 quick facts relating to this legendary six string electric guitar:

1. Leo Fender developed the Telecaster in 1948 in sunny California. This was a time that many leading manufacturers were experimenting and producing designs. As a result the Fender Telecaster needed to be extremely quick off the mark.

2. The guitar came onto the scene as the Broadcaster model in 1949 and is still manufactured today in one form or another. There have of course been numerous impersonators but the Fender original is the all-important model.

3. In 1950 the very first one pickup model hit production and was known as the Esquire.

4. As far as the wood used for construction goes, the neck and the fingerboard were made from a single piece of Maple. This was duly bolted to a body constructed from Ash or Alder, which was a cheaper process than Gibson’s way more involved ‘set neck’ style.

5. A semi-acoustic style of the guitar appeared in approximately 1968 and was called the Thinline. The 1969 version of this particular model incorporated a Mahogany body and by 1972 the body was Swamp Ash.

6. Jimmy Page of Led Zeppelin fame used a 1958 Telecaster that was a gift from Jeff Beck on the now globally popular guitar solo on the amazing track Stairway to Heaven, from Led Zeppelin’s fourth album. Lots of people still to this day think that this guitar solo was played on either a Gibson Les Paul or an SG double neck but it wasn’t.

7. Keith Richards of the Rolling Stones now famously put to use his Custom guitar in an extremely unconventional way during a live concert. Richards used his guitar to beat off an overzealous and potentially dangerous fan who ran onstage.

8. The Telecaster bridge pickup is positioned above a steel plate to improve the magnetic field which additionally helps to give this pickup its particularly distinctive tone.

9. Fender decided to modify the electronics in 1952 to incorporate a tone control into the circuit for the guitar pickups.

10. In 1950 in the period between the Broadcaster model and the eventual Telecaster, any guitars made during this interim period had no name and as a result are often referred to as Nocasters.

If you have never tried out one of these excellent guitars, head down to your nearest guitar shop a give one a trial run. I’m sure you will love it.

Top 6 Construction Site Hazards!

Construction sites are considered the most potentially hazardous and accident-prone parts of any working environment. Excessive exposure to these construction site hazards exposes workers to injury and possible death. To prevent this, a company should know how to identify and be aware of all possible dangers that can be encountered during normal business operations. The Occupational Safety & Health Administration (OSHA) wants every employee to have sound knowledge of their susceptibility to harm or injury in the workplace.

Listed below are the top six construction site hazards identified by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA):

  1. Electrical- Electricity is one of the greatest hazards to people either at home or at work. Power line workers, electricians and electrical engineers work continuously with electricity and can face exposure to this hazard on a daily basis. At the construction site, the best way to prevent this kind of hazard is for the power line workers to be a safe working distance away from the power lines. Other precautionary measures includes guarding and insulating of the vehicle from which they might work. This would help prevent electrical hazards from injuring them while working.
  2. Excavation and Trenching – OSHA has recognized excavation and trenching as the most hazardous construction site operation. From the year 2000 to 2006, the United States Bureau of Labor and Statistics (USBLS) recorded 271 worker fatalities in trenching and cave-ins. These hazards are preventable yet injuries related to these hazards are still happening. Both employer and employee must follow safety standards and use protective equipment to minimize hazards while trenching and excavating.
  3. Falls – Falling from scaffolding over six feet or a fixed ladder over twenty feet is the most dangerous and common construction site hazard. Falling from high places such as a ladder, scaffolding and roofs account for more than fifty percent of the accidents that happen at the workplace. The usual cause of this incident is slipping, tripping and using unstable ladders. There are thousands of reasons for fall hazards and to eliminate such risks, employers must have a fall protection program as part of any overall workplace safety and health program. Workers should be trained to identify and evaluate fall hazards and be fully aware of how to control exposure to such risks as well as know how to use fall protection equipment properly.
  4. Stairways and Ladder – According to OSHA’s construction safety and health standards, stairways and ladders are major sources of injuries and fatalities among construction workers. These recorded injuries are serious enough to put a worker out on sick leave. OSHA registered approximately 24,882 injuries and 36 fatalities yearly that are related to falling from stairways and ladders used at the construction site. To prevent such accidents and injuries, employers and employee must comply with OSHA’s general rule for the safe use of ladders and stairways.
  5. Scaffolding – Every year, approximately 60 workers die by falling from scaffolding; one out of five construction site falls are fatal. The most potential risk of scaffolding is due to moving scaffold components; scaffold failure related to damage to its components; loss of the load; being struck by suspended materials; electrical shock; and improper set-up. Construction workers who assemble and dismantle scaffolding and work platforms at construction sites face the risk of serious injuries due to falls. The scaffolding hazard is addressed by stated OSHA standards. They give specific requirements for the maximum load, when to use scaffolding, bracing and the use of guardrails.
  6. Heavy Construction Equipment – Approximately 100 construction site workers die each year due to heavy construction equipment. The main causes of such accidents includes: ground workers struck when a vehicle is backing up or changing direction; equipment rollovers that injure the operator; mechanics run over when brakes are not properly set; and ground workers crushed by falling equipment from backhoes, buckets, and other moving construction vehicles. To prevent this kind of risk, workers should follow all construction safety guidelines necessary to eliminate the exposure to such injuries and accidents.

Safety risks on construction site are unavoidable; however, these can be prevented if workers are instructed on how to identify the hazards that might be present at the work-site. The employer must establish proper safety standards that meet the maximum requirements of the Occupational Safety and Health Administration. This will ensure that workers will have a safe working environment during normal operation.

This is not meant to be an all-inclusive list of construction site risks; however, these top six items are certainly important ones that all construction site employers should be aware of and continually working to eliminate them from happening.

The Best Rug Pad For Laminate Floors

With all the stories about damage to laminate floors, one has to be careful in using the proper rug pad for the type of floor involved. I keep hearing that flooring people advise the homeowner not to use any rubber or PVC rug pad on their laminate floor as this can cause a negative reaction with the floor. Although this may not be the case in all instances, one is better to be safe than sorry.

A good quality jute rug pad is completely safe for laminate floors, prolongs the life of the rug and adds comfort. By a good quality, I mean choosing one that is made of recycled material. There are plenty of these so called jute rug pads on the market that are based of polypropylene, which is another word for plastic.

It is simple to choose the right pad for your laminate floors. First, make sure the description of the item states it as being made from recycled materials. This type of material is usually recycled nylon and wool carpet fibers compressed together to form the pad. Second, since there are various qualities, the best one is what is called a 40 ounce weight. This refers to the amount of material per square yard compressed into the pad. The higher the weight, the longer the pad will last and the more resistant the pad will be in protecting the floor and rug.

When purchasing a 40 ounce recycled jute rug pad and using it under your rugs on laminate floors, you will not have any damage to your floors. This quality should last around 15 years, even more in less used rooms, with very little care. A simple vacuuming once in a while will not hurt and there is not much else to be concerned about.

Your laminate floors are an investment so be sure to protect them with the proper rug pad. If you save a little now with those waffle like non slip pads, you may pay a much larger price in the future to repair or replace your floors.

How to Sand and Seal Floorboards

We have been sanding and sealing, staining and restoring floors for over 10 years, although we would recommend that you use a professional to sand and seal your floor, you can do it yourself, if you follow this simple guide:


It is the key to every job we do, if your prep is bad the finished job will be terrible, if prep is excellent the finished job will be outstanding.

The whole point of sanding and sealing is that you should be able to recreate a factory applied finish on site (at least that is what we aim to do).

Firstly you need to prepare your floor for sanding, you need to remove all nails from any gripper rods that were in-situe before, also any bits of carpet underlay that have become stuck to the floor. Once you have fully cleaned the area you need to check for any loose boards, if you find any lift them up fully to check for pipes underneath, then, using cut nails 1 ½ to 2 inch, nail them back down carefully. Then set all the nails in by at least 3mm using a centre punch and hammer, this will increase the life of the sanding belt, and limit and damage to the drum.


You are now ready to start sanding; you should start with a 36 grit belt or 40 Grit (depending on the state of the boards). Sand in the direction of the boards, never work diagonally or across them as this will put scores marks in that will take forever to remove. If you are using a Hiretech HT8 then you will need to be very careful, as these machines are really light and they tend to jump and skip over the boards rather than sand them. When sanding never leave the machine in one place for more than 2 seconds as it will create burn marks in the board that are impossible to remove. Rather keep the sander moving at all times and let the roller gently coast on the floor.

We use (and hire out) a Bona Flexidrum, this has a continuous belt on a rubber drum, the belt just slides on, no need for metal bars and screws as on the HT8. It weighs around 60kg (very heavy) and has a 2.2kw motor, it is incredibly fast at removing material and is 98% dust free; it always leaves a beautiful finish.

The 36 or 40 grit should be used until all of the boards are sanded back to bare wood, if the boards are particularly curved you could use a small sander to get the very edges of the boards cleaned up. Once you are back to bare wood you can start working through the other grades, don’t be tempted to skip grades you must work through them all – 60, 80, 100, 120 grit. Once you have sanded to 100 grit you should start sanding the edges, again keep the sander moving at all times, start with the most coarse disc and work to the finest (80 grit). After the edges are done, do the corners and around any pipes with a detail sander 40 to 60 grit (no need to go any finer it’s a very small area). After all this is done its time to do the final pass with the 120 grit belt, before running a random orbital sander around the edges (60 working to 100 grit). The final pass should be no more than twice in each direction, you’re not trying to remove material but just giving a final light sand. With this part done now your onto the final stage (at last)….go around the whole room with a random orbital sander, sand out any score marks or swirls that are in the boards, start at 60 grit, then 80 and finish with 100 or 120.

I know this all sounds very long winded, but trust me if you put the preparation in you will be rewarded when it comes to applying the finish.


If you are going to stain the floor you obviously need to do it before the seal is applied. We recommend the use of a solvent based stain that can be lacquered over. We use Bona Décor. We apply this stain with a rag in a circular motion, working the stain into the boards; you must make sure that all the stain is fully rubbed in with no ‘wet looking patches’. Once you have done this the stain needs to dry for 24-48hrs before applying your primer coat.

Most stains that are oil based cannot be lacquered over; instead a top coat of oil is applied after the stain. We have in the past used spirit based stains; however these can be notoriously difficult to apply evenly, especially on woods that are porous like beech. If you are using a spirit based stain you have to work very quickly and always keep a ‘wet edge’, on porous woods the stain should be diluted with white spirit so that it can be applied more evenly.


You’re now ready to seal the floor, so firstly fully vacuum it off ensuring that there is no dust of any kind on the floor. We always recommend the use of a base coat primer such as Bona Prime Intense or Prime Classic. A primer stops any side bonding, this is when the floor expands and rather than each block moving individually, they more as a section creating a shear line in the pattern (herringbone block). A primer enables the floor to move under the lacquer (the primer has elastic type qualities) avoiding any cracks from side bonding. This is obviously very important on any parquet or herringbone floors, not so important for floor boards but it is still good practice, as it is an extra layer of protection and aids adhesion of the top coat.

Firstly shake the bottle of lacquer well for one minute, then using the filter provided, decant it into your roller tray. Brush all the edges of the floor first using a fine bristled paint brush, making sure to cover all corners and come about 4 inches of the wall. There is no need to wait for this to dry you can carry straight on with covering the rest of the floor.

We apply the lacquer with a roller, again from Bona, don’t be tempted to use a paint roller, the lacquer roller that Bona make are guaranteed to give an orange peel free finish without dropping any pile.

When you have covered the entire floor, and checked that you have not over applied in any areas (this can be seen by a blue looking film on the surface) leave it to dry for 2 to 3 hours. You have a choice now, you can either nib the lacquer back with a buffing machine or not, if you don’t you will get a rougher grippier finish than if you nibbed it back.

If you go down the buffing route then you need to use the buffer on the slowest speed with a maroon pad and a scrad wing (a small sanding sheet that sticks to the maroon pad). Work over the floor quickly keeping the sander moving all the time, if you stay in one place to long you will rip through the primer.

After this, vacuum the floor again to ensures a dust free surface, then apply the lacquer in exactly the same way as you applied the primer, leave to dry for 3-4 hours then repeat for the final coat. The floor will need two top coats, making three in total, if you buffed the primer the first time round then you need to do the same with the first coat of lacquer. Do not buff the top coat; it should be pretty smooth if you buffed the two previous coats.

So that’s it! All done!

NB – Make sure you put felt pads on any furniture in the room as this will stop any scratches when moving furniture about.

Need to rent a floor sander in Farnborough?

What’s the Word on the Stinger Jump / Break Pool Cue?

The recently released Stinger by Jerico Cues is distributed by the National Billiard Academy and manufactured in the USA by Jerry Powers of Jerico Cues. It is claimed by the aforementioned distributor that it is “The World’s Greatest JumpBreak Cue,” and has been a recent hot topic in the industry by both consumers, as well as professional players.

What are the selling points of the stinger?

1) The stinger has two quick-release joints, which can be considered extraordinarily convenient for a jumpbreak cue since you’ve already got an extra joint that you’ll need to fool around with occasionally when making your jump shots. Time efficiency… That’s what I’m talking about. Aside from that, who wants to get carpal tunnel while playing pool?

2) It comes in a variety of different exotic woods: bocote, cocobolo, purpleheart, and ebony. The Stinger can also come at a little lower price as a “sneaky pete” version that makes use of maple wood. I happen to find the exotic woods very appealing. Many jump/breaks I’ve seen tend to be a little plain looking, but with the fabulous finish on these cues the wood really looks good. Which brings me to my next point… the finish.

3) Jerry at Jerico Cues has developed quite an impressive finish that looks fabulous AND protects and seals the wood from the effects of moisture and dirt. It seals to a depth of about a millimeter over the whole cue, allowing it to have a great glossy look to it.

4) It is currently being used by multiple pro players around the world including: Mike Massey, Kid Delicious, Tony Robles, Jennifer Barretta, Ronnie Wiseman, Chris Lynch, Edwardo Roldan, Bill Meima (2004 World Jumpshot Champion), Sarah Ellerby, Randy Whitehead, Billy Banks, and Lynette Horsburgh (UK Snooker Champion).

So what’s the big hubbub about?

Outside of the selling points listed, the Stinger boasts quite a promise for performance including a patented tip/ferrule technology, and a special tip material.

The patented tip/ferrule technology used by the Stinger makes use of a “stinger” that projects downward through a hole in the center of the ferrule (imagine a thumbtack). Upon impact, the shock from the hit travels through the center of the tip and down the stinger, passing the energy of the impact straight to the center of the shaft, as opposed to the ferrule.

The tip material used by the Stinger was developed specifically for the purpose of break/jumping. It is a high-performance proprietary material that DOES meet the Billiard Congress of America’s specifications for jump/break tips. The tip material and ferrule material are, unlike the Sledgehammer, separate components. The tip/ferrule combination used by The Stinger promises a hit that sends the shock down the center of the shaft by means of Jerico Cues patented technology.

The Best Flashing Material For Building A Sturdy, Watertight Roof For Your Home

Choosing the right material when you are building a roof, whether from scratch or choosing an existing one for your home can be confusing. With the wide variety of materials that readily available and worthy for consideration in the market which include wood, composite shingles, slate, concrete, clay tiles and metal, it can be hard to settle on one. Additionally, you will also need to consider a variety of factors such as the quality, durability and design.

To help you choose the perfect material you can use for your home, here is a list of things you need to know.


There are of course different type of materials that are required for every roof. A flat roof will require a surface that is different from one with a steeper pitch. In these cases, slate and tiles are your best choices. To further elaborate, here are the different type of materials for your roof:

Wood – For centuries, building a roof using wood was the main choice. Even today, you will find a lot of home owners prefer using wood for roof but for some areas, fire codes forbids its use. Wooden roofs are usually made of cedar, redwood or southern pine.

Metal – Aluminum, steel, copper, and lead are the most durable type of metal roofs however, it is quite expensive. While copper/asphalts are often installed as shingles, other materials are used for seamed roofs consisting of vertical lengths of metal joined with solder.

Slate – among roofing materials, a slate has been known to be one of the most durable type. In fact, hundred-year-old slates are often recycled for reinstallation with the expectation that it will last another century. It is however, expensive and very heavy.


Like every durable roofing, whatever your choice of material may be, you will probably need flashing. Far all exterior work such as roofing and siding, flashing is an important factor that makes sure your material lasts longer. Flashing is a process of applying metal or plastic film applied in strips to areas where dissimilar materials adjoin.

An excellent flashing work will help prevent water from seeping into the gaps of your roof edges. If you wish to have a good flashing for your roof, choose one that has undergone extensive trials and tests all throughout the country to make sure that the product complement the geography of all different regions and are sure to withstand all their harshest condition.

Bob Ross Oil Painting Technique – Frequently Asked Questions

The following is a list of frequently asked questions about the BOB ROSS Oil Painting Technique and some instruction about the use and care of the materials.


This technique refers to the softening of hard edges and most visible brush strokes by blending the wet oil paint on the canvas with a clean, dry brush. In blending, an already painted area is brushed very lightly with criss-cross strokes or by gently tapping with the corner of the brush. This gives colors a soft and natural appearance. Not all oil paints are suitable for this technique – most are too soft and tend to smear. Only a thick, firm paint is suitable for this technique.


To mix paints to a marbled effect, place the different colored paints on the mixing area of your palette and use your palette knife to pick up and fold the paints together, then pull flat. Streaks of each color should be visible in the mixture. Do not over mix.


When mixing paints for application over thicker paints already on the canvas, especially when adding highlight colors, thin the paint with LIQUID WHITE, LIQUID CLEAR or ODORLESS THINNER. The rule to remember here is that a thin paint will stick to a thicker paint.


Painting with the wet on wet technique requires frequent and thorough cleaning of your brushes with paint thinner. An empty one pound coffee can is ideal to hold the thinner, or use any container approximately 5″ in diameter and at-least 6″ deep. Place a Bob Ross Screen in the bottom of the can and fill with odorless thinner approximately 1″ above the screen. Scrub the brushes bristles against the screen to remove paint sediments which will settle on the bottom of the can.

Dry your larger brushes by carefully squeezing them against the inside of the coffee can, then slapping the bristles against a brush beater rack mounted inside of a tall kitchen trash basket to remove the remainder of the thinner. Smaller brushes can be cleaned by wiping them with paper towel or a rag (I highly recommend using Viva paper towels because they are very absorbent). Do not return the brushes to their plastic bags after use, this will cause the bristles to become limp. Never clean your Bob Ross brushes with soap and water or detergent as this will destroy the natural strength of the bristles. Store your brushes with bristles up or lying flat.


Use the 2″ brush with long, firm vertical and horizontal strokes across the canvas. The coat of Liquid WHITE should be very, very thin and even. Apply just before you begin to paint. Do not allow the paint to dry before you begin.


I suggest using a palette at least 16″x20″ in size. Try arranging the colors around the outer edge of your palette from light to dark. Leave the center of the palette for mixing your paints.


To fully load the inside bristles of your brush first hold it perpendicular to the palette and work the bristles into the pile of paint. Then holding the brush at a 45 degree angle, drag the brush across your palette and away from the pile of paint. Flipping your brush from side to side will insure both sides will be loaded evenly.

(NOTE: When the bristles come to a chiseled or sharp flat edge, the brush is loaded correctly.)

For some strokes you may want the end of your brush to be rounded. To do this, stand the brush vertically on the palette. Firmly pull toward you working the brush in one direction. Lift off the palette with each stroke. This will tend to round off the end of the brush, paint with the rounded end up.


Place the tip of your brush into the can of LIQUID WHITE, LIQUID CLEAR or ODORLESS THINNER allow only a small amount of medium to remain on the bristles. Load your brush by gently dragging it through the highlight colors, repeat as needed. Gently tap the bristles against the palette just enough to open up the bristles and loosen the paint.


With your palette knife, pull the mixture of paint in a thin layer down across the palette. Holding your knife in a straight upward position, pull the long working edge of your knife diagonally across the paint. This will create a roll of paint on your knife.


There are no great mysteries to painting. You need only the desire, a few basic techniques and a little practice. lf you are new to this technique, I strongly suggest that you read the entire section on “TIPS AND TECHNIQUES” prior to starting your first painting. Consider each painting you create as a learning experience. Add your own special touch and ideas to each painting you do and your confidence as well as your ability will increase at an unbelievable rate.


The BOB ROSS technique of painting is dependent upon a special firm oil paint for the base colors. Colors that are used primarily for highlights (Yellows) are manufactured to a thinner consistency for easier mixing and application. The use of proper equipment helps assure the best possible results.

Liquid Clear is a particularly exciting ingredient for wet-on-wet painting. Like Liquid White/Black, it creates the necessary smooth and slippery surface. Additionally, Liquid Clear has the advantage of not diluting the intensity of other colors especially the darks which are so important in painting seascapes. Remember to apply Liquid Clear very sparingly! The tendency is to apply larger amounts than necessary because it is so difficult to see.

13 colors we use are listed below:

*Alizarin Crimson

*Sap Green, Bright Red

*Dark Sienna

*Pthalo Green

Cadmium Yellow

Titanium White,

*Pthalo Blue,

*Indian Yellow

*Van Dyke


*Midnight Black

Yellow Ochre

*Prussian Blue
(*indicates colors that are transparent or semi-transparent and which may be used as under paints where transparency is required.)


The mixing of colors can be one of the most rewarding and fun parts of painting, but may also be one of the most feared procedures. Devote some time to mixing various color combinations and become familiar with the basic color mixtures. Study the colors in nature and practice duplicating the colors you see around you each day. Within a very short time you will be so comfortable mixing colors that you will look forward to each painting as a new challenge.


Possibly the #1 problem experienced by individuals when first attempting this technique and the major cause for disappointment revolves around the use of products designed for other styles of painting or materials not designed for artwork at all (i.e. house painting brushes, thin soupy paints, etc.).

All of the paintings for this technique were created using Bob Ross paints, brushes and palette knives. To achieve the best results from your efforts, I strongly recommend that you use only products designed specifically for use with the Bob Ross wet-on-wet technique.


Drying time will vary depending on numerous factors such as heat, humidity, thickness of paint, painting surface, brand of paint used, mediums used with the paint, etc. Another factor is the individual colors used. Different colors have different drying times (i.e., normally Blue will dry very fast while colors like Red, White and Yellow are very slow drying). A good average time for an oil painting to dry, when painted in this technique, is approximately one week.


Varnishing a painting will protect it from the elements. It will also help to keep the colors more vibrant. lf you decide to varnish your painting, I suggested that you wait at least six months. It takes this long for an oil painting to be completely cured. Use a good quality, non-yellowing picture varnish spray. I personally spray my paintings after about 4 weeks and have not had any problems.

How Does Crane Siding Differ From CertainTeed Siding

Do you want to know the differences between crane siding and certainteed siding? Let this article guide you in knowing the basic, most important differences between the two.

Crane and CertainTeed are two different siding manufacturing companies. Crane is based in Houston, Texas while CertainTeed originated from Pennsylvania, USA. Both companies offer vynal siding products but they differ on the kinds of products they offer. The most important differences in product offering include:

• Crane offers vinyl siding only while CertainTeed offers vinyl, polymer shakes and fiber cement. Vinyl siding are polymer based and they beautifully mimic the appearance and sometimes, the texture of natural wood.

• Crane offers ordinary siding while CertainTeed offers both ordinary and seamless sidings. As the words imply, the important difference between the seamed and seamless siding is in the appearance of folds (seen in the seamed type) along the connecting points or overlaps. The appearance of folds and overlaps are removed by lengthening the size of seamless siding, it is 40 feet in size while the ordinary is just 6 feet.

• Crane offers thermal and nose enhancements features in their siding, while CertainTeed manufactures insulating siding. The insulating crane siding is the newest variant of vinyl sidings, it helps maintain temperature inside the homes as well lessen the noise heard from the outside.

• Crane focuses on vinyl products and creating vinyl siding that has a texture similar to a natural cedar. CertainTeed extends its siding options by offering fiber cement or what is also understood as hardi board. The fiber cement has the texture and fiber of natural wood but is made more resistant against decay and pests by incorporating it with cement.

The Pros and Cons of Trenchless Pipe Replacement

If you have ever had to have your sewer lines or indoor plumbing lines repaired, or perhaps you have heard the stories told by others, then you know how arduous a process it can be. So, if you find yourself in need of new water lines or pipes, then chances are, you are not looking forward to the experience. But what if there were an alternative to the traditional sewer and water lines? Rather having your lawn or driveway dug up and making the yard look unsightly and causing a long list of inconveniences for your household, now you can opt for trenchless pipe replacement.

Simply put, trenchless pipe replacement (sometimes called pipe rehabilitation, pipe breaking, trenchless technology or no dig) is when underground pipe-work is replaced without digging long, ugly trenches that disrupt lawns, sidewalks, driveways and other features of your property. In fact, when trenchless pipe replacement is used there is 90% less damage done to the grounds or concrete work. Of course, this is not the only reason, albeit a good one, that many people are opting for trenchless pipes rather than the traditional. Here are some of the other advantages of trenchless pipe replacement.

  • Pipe rehabilitation can save on your water, electrical and gas lines because it does not need to be turned off or re-installed due to digging a new drain line.
  • If in the future, you have any problems with your sewer/water lines, a trenchless system works more effectively with a sewer camera inspection making it easy to determine where the problem is.
  • The no dig technology means that water flows better and the plumbing system is longer lasting than “traditional” pipelines.
  • Trenchless pipe replacement is cheaper than sewer line replacement because it is not necessary to dig up the sewer lines and destroy the existing landscape and cement work. As a result, you will not have the added expense of repairing your yard after the job is complete.
  • Trenchless pipe replacement can be done anywhere-whether you live in the mountains, the city or at the beach, no region is off limits for pipe rehabilitation.
  • Any future repairs are easily made via the 2 small access points at either end of the pipeline, meaning that it is not necessary to uncover the entire system.

Like anything else in life, if there are advantages to something, there are usually disadvantages as well. Trenchless pipe replacement is no different. Here are the disadvantages of trenchless pipe replacement:

  • In order to maintain that any additional lines-electrical, gas, etc… are not damaged, it may be necessary for the workers to do some hand digging in the yard to establish where these lines are located.
  • The labor cost can be higher as the equipment used is expensive.
  • Occasionally, it may be necessary to remove some of the landscaping, but only if the root system of the plants it will cause future problems.

Future Of Human Economics Considered

It goes without saying that a think tank needs a constant flow of new ideas and innovations to be of value to our society and civilization. So, of course, we ask our fellow members to be generous with their ideas. From time to time we also get outsiders from around the work sending in their best mental brain storms. Not long ago, we had someone explain their plan to ditch the money rat race in society, actually to ditch money all together and increase our productivity by some 30%, here is what he had to say:

“I have an idea that could improve the overall efficiency of the world by perhaps 30%. I need help in the part of how to turn capitalism into a non-money using, non-communism structured government. Also how to persuade the government to move to it and think it was their idea in the first place.”

Well, my first thought was; if we can improve efficiency in human civilization by 30%, I am ALL-IN. Indeed, I am a capitalist and love free markets and yet, I must admit I agree that the unit of trade, we currently call a USD (reserve currency) has challenges in rewarding many of the things we need to propel humans into the future. If we could find a way to use (digital units) and give out digital units for things like volunteerism, picking up trash on a daily walk, innovation, mentoring, original thoughts, and other contributions to society we could have “real value” supporting the intrinsic value of the digital units.

Of course, we might be able to use digital currency, a Bitcoin or BlockChain type scheme, the same way as Free-Market Capitalism with a new form of “unit” to trade. This might help us curb the cronyism of socialist elite, Communist regimes and corporate/government incestuous relationships that Adam Smith warned us about. The units of trade could retain value based on “real work” – positive work towards noble endeavors, while the units traded for commerce remain the same. The “goodness” pay would be based on supply and demand, more pay for what is needed, less pay for what is already in abundant supply. The AI decision matrix determines this, not humans?

And really it is the next logical step as AI replaces decision making (executives, analysts, and management) and robotics replaces most labor jobs, and AI + robotics replaces most creative jobs (artists, writers, etc.) and AI + VR replaces teaching jobs.

In many ways we would avoid capitalism, at least the way it’s practiced in reality (crony capitalism), but we also need to make sure that no one games the system – including those controlling it – unfortunately, there is also that problem of human nature. Also the group, government, leadership of the system would have a little too much power and therein reminds us of the quote; absolute power corrupts absolutely, and/or the reality that power brings out and amplifies any character flaws, even those of a benevolent philosopher king.

In many regards Capitalism is becoming less usury driven, due to interest rates being so low and in some places negative rates.

So, here is the $64 Million question – is it possible to change our current monetary system and could we really do it any better – and is it worth the risk to try? Well, either way it is an interesting place to do a mental experiment isn’t it?