Professional Speakers – How to Write Your Booking Contract

The speaking world is full of forms and contracts – the two most important are the contract you’ll fax to the meeting planner who’s agreed to hire you and the preprogram questionnaire that you’ll send out to the planner before the event.

Your credibility is on the line with each one of these documents – they need to be highly professional.

Here is a sample booking contract:

Booking Contract

____________________________________________ (ABC

Corporation) has agreed to hire ________________(Ms. Speaker)

to speak at the convention held at ______________(time)

_____________________________ (location) on


Deposit and Cancellations Policy:

o An advance retainer of 50% is required with the return of signed agreement.

o In the event of program cancellation, Ms. Speaker will rebook the program on

o a mutually convenient date with no penalty. Due to potential loss of income to the speaker, cancellation of this date less than 30 days prior to the event carries a penalty of the deposit being non-refundable.

Travel and Accommodation:

o All fees are as quoted, plus travel expenses. Ms. Speaker will book full coach airfare and expenses will be invoiced after the program has been completed. Airfare is always prorated when the itinerary involves multiple clients.

o Speaker’s accommodation, meals and ground transportation will be billed direct to your organization.

Support Materials:

o Please note that speaker’s materials, written, oral or visual, are copyrighted and may not be used or reproduced without the written consent of the speaker.

o Participants’ handouts are billed separately.


o No recording, audio or visual, may be made without the

prior written permission of the speaker.

o The speaker reserves the right to make available books

and A/V materials for sale or viewing purposes to the participants with client approval.

While it is standard practice for the client to cover travel and accommodation expenses, some speakers charge a flat fee to cover expenses where travel is involved. It makes for less paperwork and is something that the client can work into the budget ahead of time.

I recommend having a flat fee policy since it means that payment for expenses will be included in the final check you receive on the day of your speaking engagement.

Another benefit of having a flat fee policy means that there are no

unpleasant surprises for the client long after the event is over and they receive

a whopping bill for expenses.

However you decide to handle expenses, it’s important to let clients know up front and to be consistent with each client.

Once hired, you should send the client a pre-program questionnaire to help you customize your speech to the needs of this particular group. This questionnaire should cover such things as confirming time, date and location of your speech, Agenda of program, whether other speakers are on before or after your speech, Theme of the conference, expected number of attendees and any other information that will help you do a better job on the stage.

Professional contracts will make your work much easier and make you look highly professional – which of course you are!

Shipping Containers Prices – What You May Expect to Pay

If you are planning to shop for a shipping container, you may wonder what price you will have to pay. You may even head to your computer to do a little pre-shopping online. There is a good chance, though, that you will have a hard time finding concrete answers to your question about pricing. Shipping containers prices are not readily available because they fluctuate and are be dependent upon quite a few factors including what modifications have been made to them.

A twenty-foot steel storage container is one of the most commonly used container designs. These portable containers are useful for shipping large loads, providing home storage options, and housing small businesses such as food vendors. These containers are also great for an individual who is moving cross country or overseas. The price for a new, basic version of a twenty-foot container is around 2,000. When modifications, e.g. an extra door, a lock box, a refrigeration feature, a new paint job, or insulation, are added the price may be almost double at about 3,800. If you want to buy a used twenty-foot container you can expect to pay as much as 1,500 for a basic and around 2,500 for one with some alterations. If you are buying you can of course make self alterations. A twenty-foot rental will cost anywhere between 50 and 90 dollars per month. There may be a 50 to 100 dollar delivery fee.

If you have a large item like a car, or bulky goods to ship, a forty-foot steel container may be perfect for you. A forty-foot container is a great bargain and has some of the best land based uses including building cheap housing. For twice the length of a twenty-foot, a basic forty-foot container costs between 2,500 and 5,000. Modifications may add as much as 1,000 to 1,500 to this price. A used version of this container sells for as low as 1,750, while a version with several alterations may cost around 3,700. A forty-foot storage container is not as good of a deal when it is rented. Perhaps because it is harder to move, it is common that retailers charge a delivery fee of between 100 and 300 dollars. The cost of renting a forty-foot container is usually between 100 and 300 per month. There is, of course, a minimum rental period. This minimum rental period may be anywhere from six to eighteen months.

All of these prices are based upon what people have claimed to pay for common containers sizes. It is hard to find actual prices without getting a quote since there are so many factors that affect pricing. Some of these factors include container age, modifications such as pull-down doors or windows. The best way to find out a definite price is to contact a range of companies with your specifications and get estimates on new, used and rented versions of the container you want. If you choose to shop online, many online retailers, such as Aztec Containers, offer a link on their website for to receive a quote.

Why You Need Air Conditioning Repair?

A lot of people who are faced with an air conditioning repair understand the need to go for professional services. Customarily, the repairmen will go for simple cleaning and maintenance. Regularly cleaning the filter and grille of the air conditioner helps in enhancing its longevity and makes it more efficient in cooling. At times the aggregation of particles within the filter obstructs the air ducts making the machine ineffective. This issue can be resolved by simply cleaning the air filter. Some of the common issues with air conditioners include faulty cooling, rattling sound when the unit is shutting down, poor temperature regulation and accumulation of pools of water.

The most common issue that we see with this machine is related with cooling, water collection under the machine, strange sounds while turning off the machine, dysfunctional controlling of temperature etc. Some of these issues can be refurbished by owners without contacting them for technical assistance. The manual of the air conditioner carries several solutions to minor issues which can be implemented easily. Before repairing your air conditioner, the most important thing that you must do is to search for a reliable air conditioning contractor. These contractors are well aware of the common issues that stop the machine.

These contractors turn off the power of the machine while repairing it. Removing a grille is a simple task, but one should take extra care, if fan of the machine is attached with grille as you will find in some cooling machines. In addition, make sure that no wires are left loose when you remove grille and disconnect fan. If you find that there are some wires that connects fan to main board, the sequence should be kept in mind so that you can reconnect it later on. There are times when the air conditioner will not start because of a broken or tripped fuse. Replacing a fuse is a very easy and simple task.

If you do not have any idea about how to repair a fuse, there is nothing to worry as you can find all the information about it in the machine’s manual. Therefore, before you contact a mechanic, it is suggested to find that whether there is an issue with the fuse or not. Another common issue related with air conditioner is gathering of water below the machine. This might be because of the leakage of any of the pipes in the air conditioner.

How to Avoid Purchasing a Bad Portable Air Compressor

Portable air compressors are one of the most useful tools you can have around. They are used for a variety of tasks such as inflating bicycle tires, home improvement projects, etc. The only problem is that many of them require a lot of maintenance and don’t last very long. This article will show you how to avoid these issues and which compressors are better.

When you’re ready to choose a portable compressor, you’ll find that there are two choices. They are either made with aluminum cylinders or cast iron cylinders. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. One of these is practically maintenance free and the other requires a little more work.

Are “maintenance free” compressors really better?

If you’re shopping around for an air compressor you might have noticed various models being advertised that are cheaper and don’t require oil. Most of these can be found in your local hardware store. These compressors are advertised as “maintenance free” or oil free and look very tempting to buy. This seems great on the surface but lets dig deeper and find out if it’s really what you’re looking for.

Cheap Aluminum Cylinders

If you see a portable compressor for sale that’s made with an aluminum cylinder, the price tag might look pretty good to you. You also don’t have to worry about adding oil or messy cleanups. There’s only one problem with this type of aluminum-based model. Many consumer reviews show that they don’t last very long and if there’s ever a problem with the compressor itself, it can cost a lot of money whenever you have to take it in for repairs. You’ll have to ask yourself if it’s really worth the trouble. It’s true you can save a few bucks in the beginning but in the long run, you’ll either end up having to replace it or spend a lot of money having to repair it.

The solution

Portable air compressors made with cast iron cylinders do require oil and are more expensive than the aluminum variety. So, why would you choose one? It’s because they tend to last a lot longer and have less mechanical issues. Those of you who want a quality portable air compressor and don’t mind adding a little oil every now and then might want to consider one of these. Some of the top brands such as Makita and Dewalt are made with cast iron cylinders and consumer reports show that an extremely high number of customers are happy with the long-term results.

So, how do you decide which portable air compressor to choose? If price is an issue and you’re not going to be using your compressor every day, it might be better to choose an aluminum-based compressor. For those who’re going to be using their compressors for heavy duty work and want it to last a long time, a cast iron portable air compressor is the answer.

Your next step should be to read consumer reviews and find out what other portable air compressor users are saying.

Mauryan Pillars – Differences

The influence of West Asiatic factors in the art and culture of the period cannot be seriously denied in view of the close contact existing at this time between India and other West Asiatic countries. But it is rather difficult to regard the Mauryan pillars merely as imitations, or adaptations, of the Achaemenid proto-types. There are tangible differences between the two in their respective functions, as well in their conceptions and styles. Unfortunately, such differences have usually been ignored. Not belonging to any architectural composition, the function of the Mauryan pillars is totally different-a difference that is also reflected in their design and form. The Mauryan pillar, unlike the Achaemenid, does not stand on any base, nor does it exhibit the channeling or fluting which is invariably characteristic of the latter. Moreover, the shaft of the Mauryan pillar is, without exception, monolithic; the Achaemenian invariably composed of separate segments of stone aggregated one above the other.

Again, in technique, the Mauryan pillars partakes the character of wood-carver`s or carpenter`s work, the Achaemenian, that of a mason. Finally, the design as well as the shape of the capitals is different, due, no doubt, to the new conception of the Mauryan pillars as standing free in space. The supposed resemblance of the so-called `bell` in the Indian pillar with that of the Persepolitan is merely superficial. It should be remembered also that the member, with which analogy is drawn, usually appears in the Achaemenid column at the base and not as the capital, as in the Indian pillars. The double curves of the Indian member surmounted by animal sculptures in the round exemplify rather a new order of capital which is distinctive of India alone. This lotiform member, representing either an inverted lotus or a purna-ghata, is entirely in accord with Indian tradition and it would be futile not to recognize its Indian origin. The real affinities with the West are recognized in the use of such decorative motifs as the honey-suckle, the acanthus, the `knop and flower` pattern, etc. But in view of the wide divergences in form, design and conception, a borrowing from the Achaemenian pillar design cannot truly explain the Indo-Iranian affinities. India had long been a part of the West Asiatic culture complex and the key to the problem lies, as Coomaraswamy observes, in “inheritance of common artistic traditions.”

Finally we can conclude by saying that the indigenous and original contribution to the creation of this item of Mauryan art is therefore undeniable. Equally undeniable is also the fact that on their lustrous varnish, in their adoption and adaptation of the bell-shaped capital, in the higher place of conception and driving idea and in the general monumental and dignified quality and appearance they exhibit, the Mauryan columns seems to reveal clearly the debt they owe to Achaemenian art, as well as to Hellenistic Art so far as the crowning member of the columns and part of the general effect are concerned. The twisted rope design, the bead-reelcable design and so on to mark the transitions, the acanthus leaf and palmette and other designs to decorate the abacus may have however been derived from the older and common West-Asiatic art-heritage.

Freecell PowerMoves Explained

Most people understand the rules for Freecell, but not everyone understands

Freecell PowerMoves. Understanding PowerMoves is one of the most important keys to winning Freecell, and knowing how they work will increase your chances of winning Freecell.

A Freecell powermove (also called a supermove), is simply a shortcut move. It lets

you move a sequence of cards in one move, instead of doing lots of individual


It isn’t a special move though.

It’s just a shortcut, to move all the cards in the sequence in one move, rather than

several moves using the available freecells and empty columns.

The number of cards you can move in a supermove sequence is based on how many

freecells and empty columns are available. Some freecells games implement this

incorrectly, and let you move any number of cards in a sequence.

But this is wrong. If you couldn’t move the sequence using individual card moves,

then you can’t move the sequence using a powermove either.

A freecell supermove uses the empty columns and freecells as efficiently as

possible, to ensure you can move the maximum number of cards. To work out how

many cards can be moved, the following formula is used:

(1 + number of empty freecells) * 2 ^ (number of empty columns)

This is easier to understand by looking at the following chart:

Empty Columns Empty Freecells Card Sequence Length
0 0 1
0 1 2
0 2 3
0 3 4
0 4 5
1 0 2
1 1 4
1 2 6
1 3 8
1 4 10
2 0 4
2 1 8
2 2 12
2 3 16
2 4 20

This assumes you are moving the sequence to a non-empty column. If you are

moving into an empty column, then the column you are moving into does not count

as empty column.

A freecell powermove can always be broken down into several individual moves.

Suppose you have 1 empty column, and 1 empty freecell. From the chart above you

can see that we can move a sequence of 4 cards. Suppose we want to move 9,8,7,6

sequence onto a 10. The moves would proceed as follows:

  • Move the 6 to the freecell (Now one empty column, no empty freecells)
  • Move the 7 to the empty column (Now no empty columns, and no empty
  • Move the 6 onto the 7 (Now no empty columns, and one empty freecell)
  • Move the 8 to the freecell (Now no empty columns, and no empty freecells)
  • Move the 9 onto the 10 (Now no empty columns, and no empty freecells)
  • Move the 8 onto the 9 (Now no empty columns, and one empty freecell)
  • Move the 6 to the freecell (Now no empty column, no empty freecells)
  • Move the 7 onto the 8 (Now one empty column, and no empty freecell)
  • Move the 6 onto the 7 (Now one empty column, and one empty freecell)

So in this example, the powermove has saved us time by allowing us to do 1 move

instead of 9.

There are a few things to notice in this example:

  • The freecells and empty columns are used temporarily. At the end of the
    powermove, the number of empty freecells and columns is the same as at the start
    of the powermove.
  • The freecells and empty columns are used as efficiently as possible. There is no
    way that any more cards could have been moved.
  • Only the empty freecells and empty columns were used. Cards in other stacks
    were NOT used as temporary storage spaces.

This last point is particularly note-worthy. A supermove will only use the freecells

and empty columns. It doesn’t account for any other cards in the tableau. This

means you can often move a longer sequence by breaking doing the moves

yourself, or doing several powermoves.

In the example above, if there had been a spare 9 in the tableau with the right color,

a much longer sequence could have been moved. The 8,7,6 sequence would be

moved onto the other 9 first. Then we could move another 4 cards using a normal

powermove (Because we still have an empty column and freecell). So we could now

move 9,10,J,Q onto a King, and then move the 8,7,6 onto the 9 again. So by

breaking the sequence up into 2 moves, we are able to move a sequence of 7

instead of 4.

Being aware of this short-coming of supermoves will allow you to move longer

sequences, which helps a lot in winning some of the harder freecell deals.

The other thing to be aware of with supermoves is how important empty columns

are. If you look back to the chart above, you will see that empty columns are very

valuable in freecell. Four empty freecells lets you move a sequence of 5 moves,

while two empty freecells and two empty columns lets you move a sequence of 12!

So try and empty up columns as soon as you can!

What Is a Coir Mat?

A coir mat, or a coco mat, is a mat made from coconut husk fibers. These fibers are quite resilient making them ideal for doormats. They can be trounced upon for years and years and barely wear down. They can hold plenty of weight, and are good with water, but should not be left out in areas that get tons and tons of rain, as they don’t love water. If you live in a city that gets a lot of rain and you don’t have an overhang, you could stick it inside your home. I do seriously recommend investing in a coco mat, as they will save you from a lot of cleaning later on, these mats are great for getting mud and grime off of shoes and keeping it, so it’s not tracked through the house.

There is a large variety of coir mats out there to choose from. Aside from plain cocomats, you can get ones with a ton of different designs on them, there are floral prints, nautical prints, ones with sayings written on them. One of the most popular choices for coir matting nowadays is the funny ones. Make your guests giggle with a mat that says “Nice Underwear” or “OH NO not you again!” You even have the option to customize your own mat, put your last name or some initials on a mat, and you can choose from a selection of colors, fonts, and borders.

Coir mats are the ultimate front door accessory; they can add a touch of homeyness to a cement door step. It’s your homes first impression, so select carefully and figure out what kind of vibe you want to be giving off to your guests. Maintaining your coir mats looks and keeping it clean is also easy to do, just pick it up and give it a few shakes or a hit on the back to get the larger clumps out, and then take a vacuum to it. These mats are also green, which is becoming more and more important in our world. They are made of all natural fibers that can decompose in ways similar to fruits and vegetables, making them one of the most environmentally friendly home décor options.

No matter what look you are going for, when looking to spice up your front door you should have no problem finding the perfect mat, as there are a variety of websites committed to serving your every coir mat need.

Everything You Wanted to Know About Carpet Patching (But Didn’t Know Who to Ask)

A patch is one of the most common types of repairs that we do. We use a carpet patch to solve several types of carpet problems where small to mid-sized portions of wall-to-wall carpet have been damaged. People usually call us to patch their carpet when other methods to restore their carpet won’t work.

Common causes of carpet damage that require this type of carpet repair include carpet burns, carpet stains, carpet tears, carpet holes, pet damage (Bad Kitty!), and remodeling as well as worn traffic paths.

We remove the damaged area, and replace it with an identical piece of carpet. When done correctly, it’s normally, but not always invisible to the eye. Depending on the type of carpet you may be able to see the patch, but it will almost always look far better than what we started with.

Reasons why your carpet patch may not look as good as you’d like

* The patch is a different color due to the original carpet fading.

* The patch is new and the area where it’s going is old and worn.

* The patch has a gap or overlap in the seam.

* The carpet is running the wrong direction.

Start with the essentials: carpet anatomy

The greater the damage, the more complicated the repair, so it helps to understand what exactly your carpet is made of so you can assess how far the damage has gone.

Every carpet has several layers below what we can see with the eye. That top layer, which comes in various colors, weaves, heights, materials, and densities, (and which is the fun part to pick out when you go carpet shopping) is called the pile. The pile is made from many different materials: nylon is the most common encountered in both commercial and residential carpet repair, because it is relatively stain- and heat-resistant and doesn’t crush easily.

Most people are familiar with the fact that padding lies below the carpet, which helps give it its comfortable feel when you walk on it. This is the bottom layer. Common types of padding include foam (cheap), rebond, frothed foam, slab rubber, waffle rubber, fiber (such as jute, recycled textiles, synthetic fibers, etc.), and in some cases special Berber padding.

Between the pile and the padding is the backing, which is made of two layers and holds the fibers together so the carpet doesn’t fall apart. When the carpet is manufactured, needles are used to push the fiber through the primary backing. It’s then sealed against the secondary backing with very strong adhesive to keep everything in place.

Once you’re familiar with how your carpet is constructed, it’s easier to envision how patching works, even if you’ve never done it before. These are the basics of your carpet’s anatomy, and should help you in assessing how far down the damage has gone, which is an important step in carpet repair and carpet patching.

#1 Carpet Patching Requirement: Carpet Patches!

Just as important as removing the damaged carpet is replacing it with well-matched good carpet. There’s a few different ways to find a fresh carpet patch:

· In ideal situations, the new carpet patches come from spare scraps left over from the original installation. Always save the scraps!

· If you don’t have any leftover carpet from the installation we may be able to steal some carpet from a closet, beneath a radiator or from under a piece of furniture that you never move. (Now you’ll never move it for sure.)

· If your carpet is a relatively common style, a nearby retailer may have a perfect or near-perfect match that you can purchase. (The chances of finding a perfect match are somewhere between slim and none.)

· If you need to patch a significant area that matches the rest of the house (such as several steps in a stairway or a hallway, one great carpet patching alternative is to re-appropriate matching carpet from another room, such as a bedroom. Re-carpeting just that one bedroom means the hallway/stairway still matches the rest of the house, and costs a LOT less money than replacing the carpet for whole common area.

Basic Steps of Carpet Patching for the novice.

1. Removing the damaged carpet: Start by using a straight edge and a row finder. An ice pick or a Phillips screwdriver can be used instead of a row finder. Place the straight edge on the carpet with the groove side down. Use the row finder to separate the nap. Do this by dragging the point of the row finder across the carpet up and down and against the edge of the straight edge.

2. Use a slotted blade knife with a fresh blade. You can use a slotted blade knife (butted up against the straight edge to cut through the carpet without cutting through too much of the nap if you used the row finder properly. The more nap you cut off, the worse the carpet patch will look.

3. Choose a scrap of carpet that’s leftover from the original installation for the carpet patch. If you don’t have any leftover scraps of carpet then you’ll need to remove a piece from a closet or from under a piece of furniture. Some people try to find a piece of matching carpet at a carpet store but it’s nearly impossible. On occasion we will have the customer buy some carpet from a carpet store that is very close to matching. We then take carpet from a closet to do the patch with and use the new carpet in the closet.

4. Determine the direction of the nap. Carpet lays down more when you brush your hand in one direction than in other directions. It’s incredibly important for proper carpet patching that all the carpet runs the same direction. Sometimes it’s really hard to tell which way the carpet nap runs. All I can say is to keep brushing your hand in different directions until you really get to know the carpet. If you keep at it, you’ll figure it out.

5. Turn the carpet patch over and use the straight edge to cut a perfect patch from the back. If you are untrained, chances are that you won’t be able to cut a perfect patch. (Tip, use a fresh blade in the slotted blade carpet knife)

6. Now that the carpet patch is cut exactly perfect without any gaps or overlaps at the seams it’s time to seal the edges. You can seal the edges with latex or with a glue gun. Just use the slightest amount of glue along both edges so that there won’t be fraying in the future. Not everyone seals the edges but it is highly recommended.

7. The carpet patch is cut to perfection, the edges are sealed and now you’re ready to adhere the carpet patch to the rest of the carpet. The way we do it is to use a special carpet seam tape with an iron or with a hot glue gun. For the beginner I’d recommend using the glue gun.

Cut the seam tape to the size of the carpet patch. Line up the carpet seam tape so that half of it is under the existing carpet and the other half of it will be under the patch.

Use the glue gun to apply a generous amount of hot glue under the seam of the carpet. Slowly work your way all the way around the carpet until you have glued the carpet patch into place. (hint, have a glass of water right next to you for when you get molten hot glue on your fingers. A quick dip will cool it off right away and prevent you from experiencing nearly as much pain.)

When gluing the carpet patch down using the glue gun, pay special attention to the backing. You want to glue the backing down so that it’s butted up just right. Also be especially careful to avoid getting the nap of the carpet pushed down into the hot glue. It’s a mess when that happens and there’s no recovery.

As you glue the carpet together, push the carpet backing down into the hot glue using a carpet tractor. It’s a good idea to put a flat weight on top of the seam for a few minutes as you work your way around.

If you’re a novice, I wouldn’t recommend that you try to use the carpet seam iron to patch a carpet. It takes a skill that doesn’t come on the first try. You can get a better idea by watching the free videos that you can find on the main website.

Waterproof Area Rug Pad – Is There Such a Pad?

I often hear people ask for a waterproof rug pad. The closest to this is a waterproof pad made for under wall to wall carpeting. Even in this case, the waterproof aspect is still not a guarantee and could cause problems by trapping any moisture between the carpet pad and the carpet above it. In the world of area rugs, although there technically is no 100% waterproof rug pad, there is something that comes close.

For those who experience the occasional spill or perhaps pet accident, no matter what type of floor covering or protection you have in place, it is always best to try to blot the area as soon as possible. When you place an area rug on your hardwood or laminate wood floor, you should have the proper rug pad. Many of these pads do not resist water or liquid at all, hence causing the spill to go through the rug and the pad right to the floor under it. The only padding available with a plastic layer is one made for wall to wall carpeting and would be severely dangerous if used under area rugs as the plastic layer is quite slippery and causes rugs to slide right off.

There is a high quality rug pad made of a recycled jute and rubber combination. This pad is about 1/4 of an inch thick and very dense. Not only is ti one of the best protections for your rugs and your floors for normal wear and tear, it is also one of the only rug pads that will resist liquid until you can get to it and dry it up.

I have tested several pads by pouring a cup of water and watching the results. this above mentioned pad did the best in as far as the time it took to penetrate through to the wood floor underneath. Since we all would like to catch the spill or accident as soon as it happens, sometimes this is not possible. This jute and rubber carpet pad resists as best as possible and takes quite long to penetrate through to the rubber bottom. Although the top jute may be wet, and this can be dried up when you have a chance, the solid layer of rubber underneath acts as an excellent barrier between the spill and your floor. I will not say the spill will not eventually seep through this rubber. It will, depending on the amount of the spill, yet in my test it took several hours for the underside of the rubber to feel damp.

As I always mention in my articles, when I refer to this jute and rubber combination pad, I am referring to the finer one available. There are plenty where the rubber is a sprayed on latex and this will not stand the test as well. My test was on a solid rubber layer that is sewn on to the jute surface.

As much as we try to avoid spills and pet accidents, they are bound to happen. Choose the proper rug pad and you will have less worries and damage to your floors.

Cleaning Up Energy Drink Spills on Your Carpet Using Vinegar

Being active and staying in shape is important if you want to have a healthy body and be physically fit. It is really a good feeling to have a morning or afternoon run and burn all of the calories and fat in your body.

When you are exercising, it is important to always rehydrate yourself which is why sports and energy drink spills are becoming very popular nowadays. These drinks contain electrolytes, vitamins, and minerals which help replenish the lost fluids of the body through sweating while also adding some helpful nutrients.

Energy drinks though can also cause problems sometimes but it is not on our bodies but on the carpet. Accidents are sometimes unavoidable and so while you are gulping down a bottle of energy drink you could drop it by mistake and cause a big mess on your carpet. This spill can result in an ugly stain which you should try to remove right away. If you don’t know just how to get this done, follow the guide below to find out.

1. Removing the spilled energy drink on the carpet is the first step. You cannot remove the ugly stain it has caused if you don’t clean up the spilled liquid first. Use a clean sponge and slowly dab the affected area to absorb and extract the energy drink on the carpet.

2. Now you should put your attention to making a cleaning solution that will help get rid of the stain on the carpet. It is easy to make if you know how. Simply mix one part of vinegar with four parts of warm water to create a cleaning agent. Apply this solution onto the stain and let it set for five minutes.

3. Grab a clean white cloth and slowly blot the energy drink stain on your carpet. Continue doing this until all of the stain is eliminated. Blotting will help lift the energy drink stain but it may take some time until you are able to remove it entirely. Just be patient and continue doing this step until you have the results you want.

4. With the stain already gone, the last step is for you to flush out any cleaning solution residue on the carpet. You can do this by pouring a cup of cool water on the area you cleaned just a while ago. Then, use clean towels or rags to dry everything up before you can use your carpet once more.

Acne Rosacea Treatment – Treat Rosacea With This Effective Paste

If you don’t want to spend another penny on an acne rosacea treatment then this may be the most important article you read today…

Here’s why:

I’ve discovered a home remedy for acne that you already have in your house but may not know it can be used to clear up your acne.

Best part: This has already work wonders for many whose used it.

What is it that I’m talking about?

It’s toothpaste!

Yes the same toothpaste you use every day to brush your teeth can also be used as an effective acne rosacea treatment.

Why is that?

Simply because toothpaste contains powerful drying properties that can shrink, reduce and dry up your pimples.

Which brand should you get?

It doesn’t really matter which brand you get but what matters is the type of toothpaste you get. There are two forms of toothpaste, the gel form and the paste form.

The form I recommend is the paste form because the drying property of the paste form is much more powerful. However, I do not recommend you get the types that contain a lot of fluoride or whitening ingredients.

This is because these ingredients can be irritating to your skin.

Here are the step by step instructions on how to use toothpaste to treat acne:

  1. Wash your hands – Since you are going to be using your hands to apply toothpaste onto acne affected areas on your skin, it is important that your hands are clean and bacteria free or you may worsen your acne condition.
  2. Wash your face – it is also very important that you face is clean. This way, the toothpaste will be more effective when you apply it. So wash your face with a cleanser to remove any dirt, oil, or makeup that may get in the way.
  3. Let your face dry up – after washing your face, simply pat it dry with a soft towel and wait five minutes for it to completely dry up. Your skin will be able to absorb the toothpaste more effectively when it is completely dry.
  4. Apply toothpaste – now apply toothpaste on acne affected areas only. I do not recommend you apply everywhere due to its drying effect, it may dry up your skin. Remember, you only want to dry up your pimples and not your skin.
  5. Leave it on for 30 minutes – you want to leave the toothpaste on for at least 30 minutes or until it totally dries up on your skin. This is when the drying effect takes place and reduces the size of pimples.
  6. Rinse off with cool or warm water and pat dry with a soft towel.
  7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 once a day.

How to Remove Adhesive From Suede

There can be no doubt that adhesive tape was one of the greatest inventions of the 20th Century, especially duct tape which can hold anything short of a 747 together. However, when you need to remove adhesive tape from your suede jacket or couch, it is certainly a “sticky” situation.

Step 1

Remove the adhesive slowly and carefully from the suede surface, using your fingertips to gently pull as much off as possible. In case you are a nail biter, you can use a spoon instead. After you have removed as much of the adhesive from the suede as possible, then use an artgum eraser – which is a white eraser – rub the surface to get rid of the remaining adhesive residue.

Step 2

Use an emery board to sand the surface lightly in the event there is a bit of adhesive stubbornly clinging to the suede. If you do not have an emery board, you can use a fine grade sandpaper (6/0 – 8/0). It is important to proceed slowly to avoid removing suede resulting in a “bald spot” on the surface of your cherished item. Also do not press too hard when using the sandpaper otherwise you could easily create a hole, which is far worse than adhesive.

Some brave hearts have tried and indicated they were able to remove the adhesive using the common petroleum based can oil spray used for squeaky doors. However, experts generally recommend against applying any chemicals to suede. Before attempting this on the impacted area, first try it on a hidden area to confirm it will not leave an unattractive stain or discolor the item. Spray it on a cloth and dab the suede with it. Allow it to dry for five to fifteen minutes or until the adhesive appears soften. Using a clean cloth, wipe off the oil, repeat to the entire area is cleaned up. It is suggested to use a circular motion when attempting to clean the surface with the multipurpose product.

Another tactic is to lay a cotton cloth on top of the affected area, then rub an iron over the cotton cloth only. This should melt the adhesive and the cotton will absorb it. Move the cotton to a new area needing removal.

Step 4

Brush the nap of your favorite suede item with a suede brush after you have removed the adhesive. It is important to remember that suede has what they call a natural imperfection surface.

Additional tips and suggestions

If your item is very expensive or too treasured, consider using a professional to tackle the project for you.

Now keep in mind the next time you attend a networking event or conference wearing your favorite suede jacket, if they offer you a stick on name tag – just say no!

Required Items


Artgum eraser (white eraser)

Emery Board

Fine grade sandpaper (6/0 – 8/0)

Petroleum based spray can of oil

Cotton cloth


Suede brush

Best Glues and Adhesives For Handmade Cards

The best glues for handmade cards are the types of glue that work to adhere the materials that you choose to use with your handmade cards. Some glues are made for specific material, such as paper, and do not work well with other material, such as fabric. The best glues for making handmade cards are the ones that will stick indefinitely and will not disrupt the final design of the card with unsightly lumps or excess dried glue.

When making handmade cards, you may also come to find out that there are other ways to adhere materials that do not involve glue. For instance, many seasoned handmade card crafters sew items and embellishments onto their cards rather than using glue. Others find that double sided tape or spray on adhesives work best with the types of handmade cards that they create.

Here is a breakdown of common material types used when making handmade cards and the best glues or adhesives for those types of material:

Adhering Paper to Paper

Gluing paper to paper is the most common combination that is used for making handmade cards. The best types of glue used for handmade cards when working with paper are those types of glues and adhesives that do not create lumps. Double sided permanent tape is a great adhesive to use when attaching paper to other pieces of paper. The double sided tape allows the crafter more control over where the adhesive is placed and it is a very flat type of adhesive that will not result in lumps on the cards. Many scrapbookers choose double sided tape as their primary adhesive when working with adhering photos and other paper mementos into a scrapbook.

Adhering Embellishments to Paper

Embellishments, such as buttons, silk flowers, and other small items, are often used when making homemade cards. There are a few types of glue that will work when using these types of embellishments. Clear drying glues work best, most times glues, such as Elmer’s or Aleene’s Tacky Glue, are perfect for adhering embellishments onto handmade cards. For a more sturdy adhesive, you can use a hot glue gun with clear drying glue sticks. When using clear drying glues or hot glue sticks remember to allow the glue to dry completely before handling the card again.

Adhering Fabric to Paper

Different types of fabrics are a great way to add dimension and texture to a homemade card. If you are using light fabrics, such as lace or cotton, then you may consider using spray on adhesive. Spray on adhesives give the back of the fabric a nice light layer of stickiness. The light stickiness allows you to adhere the fabric to the card without any lumps. If you are using heavier fabric, such as denim, then you might consider sewing the edges of the fabric to your card or you might consider a fabric glue. When using fabric glue you should spread the glue as thinly and as evenly as you can. Once the fabric is in place, you might choose to take a bone folder or the edge of a ruler to smooth it out before it dries. This will help to ensure that there are no lumps or air bubbles underneath the fabric.

Snowmobile Power Valves – Polaris, Ski-Doo & Arctic Cat Variable Exhaust Valve System Basics

They can be called “APV” by Arctic Cat, “RAVE” by Ski-Doo or “VES” by Polaris. If you own a 2-stroke snowmobile made in the last 15 years, the engine is likely equipped with “variable exhaust power valves”. If that is the case, you probably know that you have to be quite diligent about their cleanliness and operation. This is one engine component that has to be monitored regularly to maintain peak performance.

Variable exhaust power valves are moving devices located at the engine’s exhaust port. Every brand’s variation is there to provide the same essential service and that is to vary the height and width of the exhaust port according to engine RPM. This vastly broadens the power band. At low RPM, the valves are in a closed position which promotes more complete combustion. This improves low-end torque and minimizes unburned gases in the exhaust stream. At high RPM, the valves are wide open which allows for optimum exhaust flow. This enables the engine to rev freely and produce maximum top end horsepower. Older systems were actuated by a mechanical linkage which opened and closed the valves based on engine RPM. Modern systems are actuated by electronic servo motors which precisely position the valves throughout the RPM range. Before the advent of the power valve, engine builders had to determine one size and shape of the exhaust port and exhaust pipe. This predetermined whether the engine would provide its optimum power delivery at either the high, mid or low RPM range. The power valve allows the two-cycle engine to provide usable horsepower throughout its operating RPM range.

The modern power valve system has evolved from a number of different variations over the last 30 years. Yamaha was the first company to find success with this concept when they integrated a variable exhaust power valve system in their 2-stroke Grand Prix road-racing motorcycles in the late 1970’s. The technology then made its way to Yamaha’s production road and motocross bikes the early 1980’s. Other motorcycle manufacturers soon came up with their own systems. By the early 1990’s, virtually all high-performance two-cycle motorcycles, ATV’s, personal water-crafts and snowmobiles were equipped with variable exhaust power valve systems.

Keeping the power valve system clean is of paramount importance. As power valves are located directly in the stream of the exhaust flow, carbon deposits can accumulate on the valves over time. The deposit build-up can alter the shape of the valves and change the engine’s exhaust flow characteristics. In extreme cases, the exhaust port can become completely clogged and expensive damage can occur. Deposits can also can hinder the valve movement or leave them stuck in one spot. Any of these scenarios will drastically impair the power delivery and output of your engine.

The task of maintaining your snowmobile’s power valve system is not complicated. Your service or owner’s manual will give specific instructions on how to remove and clean the system. Be careful when cleaning the valves, as you do not want to scratch or roughen the surfaces. Your manual will also offer a specific service interval and it should be followed religiously.

Once your valves are clean, there are ways to prevent premature valve depositing. First and foremost is to make sure that your machine is tuned correctly. Overly rich carburetor jetting is a major contributor to this malady. Rich jetting will allow too much fuel into the combustion chamber and this promotes carbon formation. If your sled is fuel injected, make sure that the system is operating correctly. Also make sure that your oil injection system is delivering the proper amount of oil. Perform regular spark plug readings as described in your manual. If your plug readings are off and you cannot determine the cause, contact your dealer.

Another major contributor to power valve depositing is the use of poor quality 2-cycle oil. The cheaper base stocks and additives used in lower grade oils can be cooked into carbon deposits very quickly. High quality synthetic two-cycle oil is notorious for its clean burning characteristics and will dramatically lower the rate of deposit formation. Good quality synthetic oils use sophisticated base stocks and high temperature additives which are engineered to avoid power valve depositing. They also have an effective detergent/dispersant package which will allow for much cleaner operation. When it comes to two-stroke injector oil, you definitely get what you pay for. Spending a little more on an oil that is specifically engineered to provide clean power valve operation will not only improve your engine’s performance, it will save the headaches and expense that come with premature power valve depositing.

Snowmobiles operated at low speed and steady RPM over extended periods can also promote deposit build up. During this type of operation, the valves maintain a stationary position and this allows deposits to form. If the valves are constantly changing positions, there is less chance of deposits forming and increasing in size.

Variable exhaust power valves have revolutionized the capabilities of 2-cycle engines. With a little bit of maintenance and care, they will offer trouble-free performance.

The History Of The Air Hockey Game

The air hockey table game you know and love today was invented in 1969 by a group of Brunswick engineers of Brunswick Billiards. It was initially drafted for commercial release, but set aside. Many years after the development of the initial concept, the engineers designed the first air hockey game, including mallets and disks.

The game was originally played on a table, utilizing a disk and squared mallets. The game is now played utilizing round mallets. The table is meant to be a table that provides a smooth surface that generates zero friction. Generally, the game surface is dotted with hundreds of tiny holes, through which a steady supply of gentle air is pumped. The puck then glides on a cushion of air just above the table’s surface. Some surfaces are merely smooth surfaces without holes, and the air is generated by a battery-operated air hockey game puck that generates its own cushion of air. It should be noted that these are not regulation or approved for use in any United States Air Hockey Association-approved events, games or tournaments.

The air hockey game rose to popularity in the 1970’s, as an arcade toy sensation, a college dorm rec room staple and as an amateur sport with tournament play. Tournament play began in the early 1980’s in Houston, Texas with the formation of the first professional league, The Houston Air Hockey Association. After the establishment of the Houston group, a state-wide Texas Air Hockey Players Association formed and developed formal rules and regulations for the game, qualifying it more as a sport. USAA-approved tables will be suited for two player games only, though four-player game tables do exist for novice and recreational use.

Present day rules for the sport are now determined by the USAA, and include the following rules:

1) At the start of the game, a coin toss or face off determines the player that will start the game with first possession of the puck in play.

2) The first player that scores seven points wins the game.

3) Once the puck crosses into a player’s zone of the table by crossing the center line, that player has up to 7 seconds to return the puck to the opposing player’s zone, or else has committed a foul.

4) Other fouls include holding down the puck with one’s mallet, touching a puck with any part of a player’s body or the puck leaving the table entirely.

Competitive play and tournaments are still played on an international level today, with professional tournaments being played throughout Europe and the United States. The USAA is the only known governing body over the sport, in any country or continent, and therefore, the USAA rules apply to any tournaments played worldwide. Despite this level of success, the air hockey game is still considered to be a recreational non-sport amongst most players, who affiliate it with arcades and bar-play. It is still seen in many recreational venues and arcades, but is often over-shadowed by the presence of video gaming systems.