Decorative Wall Cladding

Decorative Wall Cladding is used to enhance the exterior or interior of a building. It can be used on existing decorated surfaces or un-decorated surfaces i.e.; plastered walls, brick walls etc.

Wall cladding usually consists of large hygienic plastic sheets, of various sizes and design. The decorative cladding sheets are joined to each other, and these are secured to the walls with screws. The fixings or screws are hidden by the cladding itself, and this makes a more visually appealing installation. These systems are available in a huge range of colours and designs, and the various styles will appeal to most customers needs and taste. Wall cladding systems can be supplied in kit form, or supplied and fitted by some suppliers. Decorative wall cladding may also be applied to ceilings, and even some types of door.

Decorative wall cladding panels are quick and easy to install and may be carried out by any competent DIY enthusiast.

Some of the components or fittings required for the installation of wall panels may include:

o Colour strips

o Internal and external corner fittings

o End cap piece

o Chrome coving fitting

o H Trim fitting

Depending on the type and condition of the wall or ceiling will determine what type of fitting is needed.

If nails are to be used then they should be applied evenly and level in the lip of the panel, taking care not to strike the panel with the hammer. This method only applies if fixing the panels to a wooden surface or wood battening.

Gluing will only work effectively when applied to a dry and even wall. The wall must be cleaned and be free of any greasy substances and dust, and only a special adhesive should be used.

When fixing the panels to wooden battening the recommended method is stapling. The battening should be flat and level and packed out where necessary on uneven walls. This is so the panelling does not develop a curvature when following uneven walls.

If the walls are damp or uneven, treated timbers should be used for battening to ensure an adequate amount of ventilation behind the panels. Battens should be spaced 40cm to 60 cm apart.

Advantages of decorative wall cladding are:

o Quick and easy to install : It can be installed on ceilings

o Does not require grouting

o Installs to a wide range of surfaces

o Rot proof and waterproof

o Warm to the touch and helps reduce condensation

Wall cladding is hygienic, cost effective and gives a good finish.

Hardiplank Siding Vs Cedar Or Vinyl Siding

There is plenty of debate in the building and home improvement industries about the topic of Hardiplank Siding vs. Vinyl Siding and Cedar Siding which have been around for a lot longer. Thousands of homeowners have looked to United Home Experts to help them determine the answer to this question. If the solution was so cut and dry, we wouldn’t still be installing all 3 clapboard style siding products. The truth is, it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish and what your long term goals are.  Although we’ve constructed a detailed comparison on our website, here are some quick rules of thumb to help you navigate this topic. You may fall into one of these categories.

Homeowner #1: You prefer the most autentic, natural, and traditional product, and are willing to pay for the initial installation and more frequent maintenance.

We would recommend sticking with CVG Western Red Cedar Clapboard.

Homeowner #2: You prefer the lowest maintenance product, and are willing to sacrifice a little bit of aesthetic appeal and color choices in order to avoid much upkeep in the future.

Vinyl Clapboard is probably right for you.

Homeowner #3: You really want the look and character of wood, prefer not to be limited by a narrow color selection, and want a product that is highly impact resistant, and impervious to insects, woodpeckers, and other indruders.

Hardiplank Siding is probably the way to go.

Hopefully this quick overview sends you well on your way to choosing a siding product or your new or existing home.

The 6 Steps To True, Effective Leadership

Before one decides to seek, or serve, in any position of leadership, he should objectively, and introspectively consider, why he wants to do so, and/ or whether he is fit to be a leader, or the right individual, to pursue leadership. If you determine it is for you, and you are the right person, then, you must seek the best way, to be as effective and relevant, as possible! Far too often, our elections, whether for national office, or local positions, become little more than popularity contests, and revert to empty promises and rhetoric! However, once someone is elected, selected or ascends, he should try to be the best he can be, and this article, will briefly review 6 steps, to true, effective leadership.

1. Examine goals, priorities, needs: It might seem obvious, but it is amazing how rarely new leaders begin their process, with a thorough examination of goals, priorities, needs, perceptions and concerns. How can anyone be effective, without addressing top priorities, in a well – considered, thoughtful, timely manner?

2. Strategic planning: While many groups claim to use strategic planning, few actually do so! In many cases, the process deteriorates to blaming and complaining, rather than seeking solutions, alternatives, and plans. It is indeed, this strategy, which will generally determine the eventual success of a leader. How do you know you are using the best approach or strategy, until/ unless you objectively examine alternatives, in sync with the heritage, present conditions, and future aspirations?

3. Action plan: The greatest strategic plan, unless acted upon, in a well – considered, timely manner, will become a mere exercise, rather than a viable course to creating a solution! Use this strategic plan, as the basis of your action plan, and use this process, to create a step – by – step, cookbook – style analysis and procedure, to achieve what needs to be done!

4. Develop your team: No individual, no matter how skilled, or well – intentioned, can do it alone! Rather, he must identify those individuals, who will make his team stronger, better, and more relevant. How can one delegate responsibilities effectively, unless he first identifies the best people to serve the cause?

5. Delegate wisely: While, at times, it might be simpler, especially, in the short – term, to do it yourself, in the longer – term, it is important to delegate wisely, to individuals who will get it done!

6. Get it done!: Good intentions, promises, and positive rhetoric, are necessary ingredients, and first – steps, in identifying individuals with the potential to be effective leaders. However, what really counts, is whether one can bring ideas to actions, and achieve what’s necessary. Get it done!

Don’t just serve in leadership, but seek to do so, effectively! True leaders are effective ones!

Stain on Railing–Just Spray and Wipe

Just remember my advice before you start this job of using opaque, semi-opaque or transparent stain. Don’t do it. You will have turned wood that didn’t do anything to you into a maintenance item. Weathered gray wood is nature’s way of staining and it will fit into most landscape plans.

But, I know most of you want to have some reddish or brown color; so stain away, however wait at least a year on new deck installations, wood that is green will not hold the stain.

As you wipe the sweat off your brow just as you finish your deck floor, you think maybe a cold beer then a cold shower, Wonderful! But wait, you still have all the hand rails and all those upright balusters to stain as well.

Those balusters are going to be a pain. They are small and close together and they have all those nooks and crannies. Try staining a cranny for for the whole deck. It gets tiresome and boring and it takes a lot of time.

Not if you follow my simple instructions;

Take old “Windex bottle” or some bottle with spray applicator, clean well and put your stain in bottle. Now just spray your stain on balusters and wipe down with a rag. If you want to get fancy, get one of those painting gloves and stain all those balusters as fast as you can spray and wipe.

No dipping, no brushing, just spray and wipe. Pop the top on that cold one, we are done with this job.!

Following Building Codes – Vital in Installing Stair Railings

Stairs serve an important purpose to people whether it's installed in a home or building. But apart from providing access to people in going to and descending from upper levels, a vital component of the stair also ensures the safety of users.

The stair railings protect people from falls during their ascent or descent. These are made up different parts – baluster, newel post, guards, landing newel and handrail. The balusters are the ones that protect people from falling off while the handrails help users in keeping their balance while going up and down the stairs. These same parts give the stairs its unique style.

As stairs come in different types, shapes and designs, they also need to be constructed in a variety of ways. Depending on the available space in a home, stairs can be gradual or steep, wide or narrow, hidden or grand. The tread part or the one you step on can also either be an open or closed type. In addition, stairs can be built right in place or you can have one ordered according to your specific requirements.

Another thing to take into consideration when installing stair railings is to be aware of the building codes in your locality. Any stairs need to comply with codes to ensure their safety to all users. The codes pertain to the heights of risers, depth and width of treads as well as placement of handrails. While there are national standards, local codes vary and feature different restrictions. Your city or county building department is your best source for the local requirements.

The restrictions normally are on the types of stairs, their measurements, head-height clearance, placement and construction of railing. If you're installing a spiral stair, for instance, you need to follow codes concerning measurements. A tread depth of 9 to 10 inches at 12 to 14 inches from the narrow side is usually required by many codes.

For the balusters, the opening or spaces between the vertical posts should be from a minimum of four inches to a maximum of six inches. This is so because a wider space in between can allow small kids to get through which may result in accidents.

The handrails need to comply with certain codes as well. For stairs situated against the walls, the required handrail height in the US should be from 30 to 38 inches only while for open stairs, it should be from 34 to 38 inches. In Canada, the allowed height is 32 to 36 inches. A handrail is a must if the stairs are above 24 inches high.

It is also critical that stair railings include handrails that can be easily grasped by users. There have been many cases of slips and falls from places that use wide handrails whether made from wood or metal. The flat and wide types used in stair railings are not advisable because they are not friendly to the hands.

Protection is the foremost goal of stair railings but this can only be achieved if the proper building codes are followed during installation.

What is Involved in Architectural Ironmongery?

Ironmongery is a term used to describe products that are made from iron, or products with fittings made of iron for use in construction. The word Ironmongery has its heritage in the iron industry. Its significance in building a structure can not be disregarded, as iron is one of the essential building components used in construction industry. Other words used for ironmongery includes architectural metal work or architectural ironmongery.

Iron is used in different phases of construction of buildings. The architectural ironmongery is used at the last stage of construction, when the building is about to be completed. The most frequent use or Ironmongery is in handles, banister and railings. So, it basically works as an accessory that can make or break the overall look and impression of the building.

There are mainly three types of architectural ironmongery; Pre-Pack Hardware, Iron Window Hardware and Iron Door Hardware. These three categories include: latches, door bolts, bow handle bolt, Breton bolts, tower bolts, Suffolk latch, swivel locking bar, turn buttons, wire hasp and staple, tee hinges, etc.

Different buildings, according to their looks and needs, require different ironmongery. So, to cater to these different needs and looks, there are many different types of ironmongery available, both in modern and traditional styles. It blends in well with every look, be it Old World look, the Ultra Modern look, or anything in between. The elegant, classy or modern look of the building determines the type of ironmongery used.

Ironmongery can be used for a variety of purposes. It is also used for the security and safety purposes of a building. The safety equipment like door knobs, door locks, door chains and door viewers, which are all usually made of iron, are installed in both homes and commercial buildings. So, ironmongery, because of its basic quality of resilience, plays an important role in safeguard and security of a house.

Ironmongery can be used to beautify a house or a commercial building, while renovating the first thing that anyone can think of is a little change or enhancement in ironmongery of a house. A little change in the ironmongery can bring about a radical change in the look of the building.

The ironmongery is durable and long-lasting decoration and building component. It does not require much maintenance and frequent replacement. So, choosing the right ironmongery the first time is very important because it is bound to stay with you for a while. The metal work of any building is the first thing that catches your eye and makes an impression. And lastly, it adds value to the building.

The art of architectural ironmongery is timeless. It works to provide ease to life. The significance of ironmongery can be gauged from the fact that it is being used for safety purposes of many commercial and homes buildings. Its use for beautification purpose of buildings is an added plus. So, incorporating ironmongery in any building has become the need of the day. It may be expensive, but it is compensated by the fact that it is durable. Invest in ironmongery wisely, because it is bound to stay with you for a long while with its intrinsic long-lasting characteristics.

Baby Bottles and Brands

Choosing the right brand of baby bottles for your precious little baby may be as simple as getting anything of the shelf or as tedious as listening to tons of advice from your friends and relatives. Nevertheless, it is still up to you to decide what brand of baby bottles you will be using for your baby's feeding.

One of the most popular brands is Avent. Avent is a world-renowned brand that has put a lot of effort into making the safest and most appropriate baby bottles. Bottle Avent not only manufactures a single line of baby bottles; they specialize in baby bottles for pumping moms and older babies.

One of the best features of Avent is the teat or nipple that comes with the bottles. The silicone-made and wide teat imitates the form of the mother's nipple and thus offers the best comfort for your baby.

Avent also boasts of a valve that has a patented anti-vacuum skirt. This prevents air from flowing into your baby's mouth during feeding. Avent's teats come in different types of milk flow for your unique milk-drinker. The nipples are available in slow, medium, and fast flows. If you are unsure as to your baby's preference, you can start with the slow flow teat and if your baby shows frustration, change the teat to a faster flowing one.

Avent is also dishwasher safe and does not get cracked or discolored as easily as other bottles. This means that you would not have to change your baby's feeding bottles as fast as when you use other brands. Plus, Avent have wide mouths which means you can clean it by hand easily without the need for bottle brushes that may not be able to clean the bottle as thoroughly. Bottle Avent is also easy to fill; with its wide mouth, mixing your baby's formula will not cause frustration on your part. Transferring from the pump's bottle to the Avent, or mixing powder and water will not cause spills.

Your baby's bottle Avent will also be very easy to handle come the time that your precious baby starts grasping. The wide shape of the bottle is easier to hold for your baby's developing gross motor skills. Just make sure that you are there to support your baby's attempts to be an independent milk-drinker at the start. For more information of Avent, you can check out their website and other parenting websites for reviews.

Should Rotational Exercise Be Avoided in Favor of Sagittal Plane Work?

A panel of five fitness experts gathered their opinions and thoughts on a specific question for the Round Table Discussion. The panel was asked the following: “If it is safe to say that power lifters and athletes in strength/power positions that exhibit massive body structure have a history of weight-lifting like “bodybuilders”, and then is it acceptable to say that all athletes should have a base of sagital plane work? Does this put rotational work on the back burner? And/or does it put it further down the priority list of exercise design for athletes?

In no specific order, their answers are as follows:

Rick Karboviak, CSCS:

“Today’s athlete needs more than just a base program of strength training to get the job done. Unfortunately, the general mindset in today’s typical athlete is that “More muscle equals better performance, therefore I must gain muscle because Coach X says I need some on me.” Hence, their own training research usually digs up the bodybuilding books or magazines for their guidance. And the ads in there for Super Whey Protein Mass Gain 1000 Turbo Drink don’t help matters any. What they get caught up in is more time spent in the weight room on the weights will equal better performance, and that is not the case. I once had an athlete I was training for a combine tryout. He lifted 2x a day for 4-5 days a week, sometimes 6. He was on a high calorie diet, and the end result was in just after 3 weeks of this ‘gain weight now’ approach, his vertical height dropped by 10% and his 40 yard dash time increased by .3 seconds. Not the types of performance numbers you want to see when you’re trying to increase vertical height, and decrease the 40 yard time. He was so caught up in the ‘gain weight’ mindset with the lifting; he failed to spend the quality time on his performance needs. Today’s athlete needs more than just weight lifting, in any single or multiple planes of motion, to get the job done for overall conditioning. You can’t mimic a sprint without doing a sprint, for instance. So, regardless of what type of program you are doing for strength training, you still need ‘basic skill work done on conditioning your body for your sport’s demands. Weights won’t do it alone. I don’t think we will ever have athletes fully stay away from the bodybuilding genre, but with professional guidance and assistance, trainers and strength coaches can help them out to develop them into fully functional all-around athletes.”

Rob Pilger, CPT:

“If you look at the injuries sustained in sports, or daily activities, they happen mostly in the frontal and transverse plane. Why not the sagital? People train the most in this plane. So training should include frontal and transverse exercises. Or exercises that include all planes in one exercise, ex. supine lateral ball roll. One needs only to look at the requirements of the task, or sport, to see what planes predominate.

Maybe some trainers have overkill with the sagital plane, exercise, and tend to neglect the frontal and transverse plane exercises, or vise versa. If a person has trouble with a sagital plane exercise, descend it, teach it right, can’t do a push up, do a wall push up.

Sagital plane exercise should not be neglected, or down played, depending on the persons training age, background, preparedness, they will perform these exercises differently. They obviously should be able to perform sagital plane movements. People think they know how to lift, make sure their motor control is solid.

I think some trainers like to get ahead of themselves, just to seem cool, or innovative. Trainers need to do a movement pattern assessment to see what the client can or can’t do. I like Paul Chek’s method of looking at the Squat, Lunge, Bend, Twist, Pull, and Push. See how the client performs these, and ascend, or descend, accordingly.

Programs just need to be balanced, to keep clients strong, and stable. Neglecting planes to be trained can cause imbalance. Frontal, and transverse plain exercises need to be trained in for balance, and for avoidance of injury.

It makes no sense, to discard sagital plane exercise, or limit them, just make sure they do not make up the entire program,

I think this is the real issue to be dealt with. So, this is simple, look at the task the client uses, and look at what planes of motion the task is performed in. This will make up your program design. Just make sure there is balance, and the needs are addressed.”

Dr. Kwame Brown, CSCS:

“Bottom line: If an athlete has success because of his or her size, then that athlete will have greater success still if they actually know how to move!!! So, yes the athlete needs to be challenged in all planes. Sagittal plane work such as lunges is essential, because much of the time athletes must, at least briefly, support on one leg. Movements like lunges also assist in developing an athlete’s ability to use different muscle groups together to make a movement stronger, or more robust (known as synergy). Rotational work should be done as well, but this does not mean rotating the trunk through large ranges of motion. Most of what the trunk does during athletic movements is act as a resistive conductor of energy between the arms and legs. What I mean by this is that the trunk stores and transfers energy. Take the tennis serve for example. The power comes from the legs and keeping the arm loose like a whip the way that the trunk contributes to that power is to create torque. If one tries to use the trunk as the original source of power, the serve will lose power. So, including exercises that involve resisted rotation (which can be integrated with sagittal plane work) can be beneficial. Is size important in certain sports like football? Absolutely. Is it the only important factor? Absolutely not. Dwight Freeney is one of the premier defensive ends in the NFL, but he is mid-sized. He simply moves better and quicker than the offensive linemen he beats. He has great balance and agility. I am sure that he did not build that solely by “pumping iron” for the goal of gaining size.”

Steve Payne, CSCS, CPT:

“I train predominately baseball players, most of which do not have a correct understanding of lifting principles, techniques or theories. Most have been overtrained in high school by typical bodybuilding methods, which leave them largely ineffective, or less effective, in their chosen sport than if they hadn’t lifted at all.

I do believe that a well planned regimen for strength training should include sagittal plane work. However, there are two motivating factors which, I feel, must be addressed in this regard. 1) Lifting heavily in the sagittal is a necessary component for strength gains, but not like a bodybuilder would train. Strength gains are good, but excess bodyweight and the wear and tear of bodybuilder routines are counterproductive to the athletes I see. 2) Because baseball is highly motivated by rotational ability at the plate and on the field, it must be a priority in the training regime. However, the one (sagittal plane development and proficiency) compliments the other (rotational strength and ability) if the two are melded together correctly.

Let me also add this addendum: most baseball players do not understand the explosive nature of the game, and therefore lift much too heavily and train much too slowly for their strength training programs to be effective. Whether lifting in the sagittal, frontal or transverse plane, movement should reflect the explosive nature of the game, when relevant. Barry Binds may have had the most power at the plate, but he wasn’t a real threat on the bases or in the field. His size was also his downfall.”

Brian Nolan, NSCA-CPT:

“Great question. I don’t think it’s fair to necessarily look at the success certain people have had in spite of their training. The question begs the question, “How good would they have been if” There will always be genetic freaks that respond to anything and will have a certain level of success regardless of their training intensity, or appropriateness of their training protocol. In fact, we can probably look at most professional athletes falling into this category. We all know the level of strength and conditioning is below where it should be, yet athletes keep getting bigger and stronger.

I’ve heard the statement that sagittal work should be mastered before rotary and coronal training, and on the surface I think it makes sense. But, I think you need to know the root reason for a statement like that. It’s not necessarily that frontal and transverse work isn’t as important, it is just much more difficult to quantify and control. To this point, there isn’t much ground work to define

become a reach (hip dominant)? If someone is a control freak such as much as myself, it’s easy to see why they would chose to stick to more definable and controllable exercises with a clearly defined progressive pattern.

Now, that is not necessarily MY school of thought, “but I understand.” I have always approached training from all three planes and have just tried to control the variables and measurements as much as possible. Does it work, yes. Could it work better with more information? Probably. However, I can’t help but feel that there are many instances when sagittal work may be limited by ones functionality in the frontal and transverse planes. If the rotational and counter rotational qualities aren’t inherent or the abilities to adduct and abduct aren’t nurtured one will never reach their athletic potential on the field or in the gym. Also, when do we actually consider someone proficient in the sagittal plane? How do we define when someone is fit to be trained in the coronal or transverse planes? It appears the argument against using multidirectional work also works against the idea of mastering sagittal plane exercises first. There can’t be a “first” if there is nothing to follow. Many of us have abandoned squats, deadlifting, pressing, and rowing in favor of the fancier, “functional” version instead of integrating both.”

Wes Norris, CSCS:

“I believe that exercises in all three planes of motion should take place when training athletes. Most athletic events require movement in all three planes, so it is important to train the athlete to be able to react and perform in multiple directions. I think that most athletes probably have a pretty good base of sagittal plane strength from years of performing in their sport and unsupervised weight training. I have not heard anyone claiming that sagittal plane exercises should be steered away from. They are critical to enhancing performance.

But at the same time, frontal and transverse exercises should not be placed on the back burner, but should be trained equally with sagittal plane movements. Training in these planes is also important, as most sports will require strength and agility in multiple planes, and training in the frontal and transverse planes can help prevent against serious injury. A properly periodized program should incorporate training in all 3 planes with a proper balance of compound movement strength training, plyometrics and game-specific drills and exercises.”

Chaney Weiner, CSCS, CPT:

“I would say yes and no. There are some people who move better in the frontal plane than they do in the sagittal plane. I would say to train the sagittal plane first and the frontal plane second. Since we move in multiple planes, whether it is in athletics or just everyday activities then doesn’t it make sense to train all planes of movement? I say to train all planes from day one and just have the client do whatever they can do. Obviously if they are collapsing during a sagittal plane movement then you may want to stay away from other movements outside of the sagittal plane. Most of this is situational and depends on the individual.”

Gain More Strength With Your Bench Press

Here are some of the most effective exercises for a bigger bench close-grip pressing movements like close-grip flat and slant bench presses, close-grip board presses, will help increase your triceps making them stronger for your overall bench.

– Maintain your shoulder blades pulled collectively and stretched. At the time of pressing you have to create the most even environment achievable. This can’t be made in case both of your shoulder blades are off the bench. Keep your shoulder blades flat creating a stretched, more even surface from which to press. This is for the reason that more of your body is in touch with the bench. These tips also alter the distance the bar takes to travel. The solution to pressing big weight is to press the shortest distance achievable.

– Maintain the pressure on your higher back and traps. You want the force around the sustaining muscles. This is done by stretching your feet into the floor, thus stretching your body into the bench. Make an effort for this: stretch out on the bench and line up so your eyes are four inches in frontage of the bar (toward your feet). Now utilizing your legs stretch yourself into the bench to put pressure on the higher back and traps. Your eyes must now be still with the bar. This is the same pressure that requires to be pertained at the time of pushing the barbell.

– Drive the bar in a straight line. Drag your shoulder blades jointly, push your chin and elbows, and get the bar to your upper abdominals or lower chest. This will lessen the pressing distance and decrease the amount of shoulder rotation and strain.

Have your elbows tucked in and the bar straight over the wrists and elbows. The elbows must stay tucked to maintain the bar in a straight line as illustrated above. Maintaining the elbows tucked will also permit lifters to use their lats to push the bar off the chest. Football players are trained to drive their rivals with their elbows tucked and then blow up through. This is the similar for bench pressing. Bench pressing is all regarding producing force. You can create larger amount of pressure with your elbows in a tucked position relative to an “elbows out” position.

– Fill your stomach with air and hold it. If your doing your max bench of three reps or less always remember that breathing is very important. If you breathe out in course of the utmost effort, the body structure will vary slightly, as a result changing the channel in which the barbell is traveling. Also keep in mind to breathe with your stomach, not your chest.

– Prepare with compensatory increase of rate. Drive the bar with maximal force. You must have proper technique when you’re trying to move forward, be it 40% or 100% of your max, you have to go to 100% failure to get stronger. If you can bench 500 pounds and are preparing with 300 pounds, you must then pertain 500 pounds of energy to the 300-pound barbell.

When bench pressing try to drag the bar at a distance! Do not lift heavy weights if you’re not in a comfortable physical state when lifting the barbell. The most excellent way to get the body stretched is by pressing the bar.

– Dedicate one day per week to Max press training. The bench press must be taught using the dynamic-effort technique.

Creating An Efficient Contemporary Kitchen Design

Contemporary kitchens are described as minimalist, modern and geometric. Its features include asymmetry, horizontal lines and devoid of molding and other decorations. The materials used are usually man-made instead of natural. To name a few are laminate, chrome, frosted glass inserts, lacquer, stainless steel, linoleum and concrete. Contemporary design covers those styles from the 1940's up to the present.

The key to achieving a well-organized kitchen design is an effective layout and visual element. If you want to create a modern facade in your kitchen, there are some things that you need to pay attention to.

1. Color combination

This is usually the first aspect that almost everyone observes about your kitchen. From the kitchen wall to the countertops, up to the ceiling and down to the floor, your kitchen's color palette will elicit the first and lasting impression for visitors. No specific rules have been set regarding the color combination that's right for your kitchen; the choice of shade will depend on factors such as lifestyle, age group and personality of the persons using the kitchen.

2. Lighting

This is another important element that must be taken into consideration when creating a contemporary design. Lighting influences the people's size perception of the kitchen. Downlights can be nice, stylish touch to your kitchen. They should be used only to accentuate particular spots and not as principal sources of light. Bear in mind that a bright, well-lit workplace can make your kitchen look larger, more favorable and safer area to work in.

3. Safety

For safety purposes, the cabinets and doors in your kitchen should have soft closing systems. With this, the cabinet doors will settle gently before closing slowly so you do not have to worry about your children's fingers being caught. The work area and the cabinets should have the right height and you should also install reachable pull-out drawers for the older family members. For the flooring, you can use non-slip tiles.

4. Kitchen furniture

The kitchen furniture that you should use, such as chairs, bakers racks, table and bar stools should complement the kitchen's overall interior style. To set off the contemporary design, you can pick items that are made of stainless steel and birch wood. You can also consider items with sleek linear style to maintain the modern look of your kitchen.

5. Accessories

These are important ingredient in every decorating style. However, in contemporary design, it might be better to use only few minimalist items.

How to Solder EL Wire

Many people will tell you Electroluminescent Wire (EL) is one of the coolest things on the planet. New technologies across the globe are bettering many of our lives and EL Wire seems to be no different. From its amazing colors it creates, to the safety and benefits it has, to the smile on peoples’ faces, Electroluminescent Wire is changing the planet as we see it forever. All too often people seem to be baffled how you can create things like this that glow. This is a simple article to explain how easy putting Electroluminescent Wire together really is.

In a nutshell, Electroluminescent Wire is similar in size to a common speaker wire, and as such is a good basis to learn from. All speakers have a positive and negative, commonly referred to as the red (positive)and black (negative). This is no different. Rather than a tradition wire that runs side by side, the positive and negatives actually surround one another. You may be wondering which is which. Well, there is no wrong answer. Since the wires are never touching, it doesn’t matter which you use for your positive and which is your negative.

Since EL Wire is relatively expensive, we recommend using cheaper speaker wire to run from one distance to the other, if the wire has to go places where is doesn’t need to light up. For instance, if you were writing in standard letters, you may have to jump a gap, whereas writing in cursive is one fluid motion.

Items Needed are as follows:

– EL Wire

– Speaker (or lead) Wire

– Wire Strippers

– Razor Blade

– Solder

Let’s get right into it. First you have to strip the end off the EL Wire. To do this take your strippers about 1 inch away from the end, clamp down and pull. You should end up with a pair of angel hair wires (which are very fragile and only count as one wire when tied together) and one thicker one(with a powdery coating over). These two different wires are going to be your positive and negative wires I talked about previously. Next bend the small angel hair wires out of the way for use in the next step. Please use caution with these wires because if they break off you have to re-strip and start over.

Take the thicker wire with the powdery coating (it’s actually the element phosphor which makes the EL Wire glow), and use your razor blade to remove all the coating around the wire, leaving the metal wire exposed. Next tie the speaker wire you have (or lead wire) to your two different wires. When connected properly, the wire will light up at this point. If they light up, you are in business. But not quite finished. The last thing you will need to do it place some solder around the two pieces you connected. This will make it is very secure, and ensure that it will light up even during crazy dance parties.

If you have electrical tape or heat shrink tubing you can place it over the soldering that you just created to make a nice seam. That’s it, and you’re finished. You should be ready to go out and glow.

Tools and Items Needed For Hand Soldering a Quad Flat Pack

Before you start to hand solder a quad flat pack (QFP) to a printed circuit board, you will need several tools and items. This article describes what is needed for the process, including safety items, consumables (materials that are "used up" during the process) and tools.

Whenever doing any soldering, the first thing to consider is safety. In particular, the protection of eyes, hearing, lungs and skin.

The first safety item that I recommend is a face respirator. You can get a face respirator at your local hardware store. There is a selection of filters that you can buy for these, including ones for dust and paint fumes, and so on. I recommend getting the filters that are for agricultural use because they provide good general purpose fume and chemical filtering. They will help to protect your lungs from soldering fumes.

Another way to deal with soldering fumes is to use a bench-top fume extractor. These are great, but personally I just use a face respirator, which is effective and low cost.

Still on the subject of air safety, it is important to make sure that your work area is reasonably well ventilated so that there is not a build up of solder fumes where you are working.

Eye protection is a must at all times. If you use a head magnifier, this will protect your eyes and give you magnification at the same time. When you are not wearing a head magnifier put on a pair of safety glasses.

You must also protect your hearing, especially when using an air compressor during the circuit board cleaning process. Air compressors can definitely be a hearing hazard while they are running. I like to use yellow foam ear plugs for hearing protection. Alternatively you can use ear muff type hearing protectors. For extra hearing protection you can use the foam ear plugs and the ear muffs at the same time.

For protection of your skin, I recommend using latex gloves. Make sure you get the powder-free ones so that you do not get any talcum powder from the gloves floating onto your boards and solder. You can buy these gloves at the supermarket. They may be labelled "powder free latex gloves for food handling".

Now we will look at consumables. Consumables are the materials that are used up during the process, such as flux, solder and cleaning solvents.

One of the real secrets of doing quad flat pack and other types of surface mount soldering successfully is to use "gel flux", not "liquid flux". Liquid flux does not have enough solids content, or rosin content, for this process.

It is also important to get the "no-clean" type flux, which is inert and non corrosive. Do not buy the water soluble type flux because it is corrosive and can damage your board if you are not able to wash it all off properly after the soldering process.

Any brand of electronic soldering gel flux will do a good job, such as AIM or Multicore. One way to buy gel flux is in a syringe package. This is the most convenient way to buy it. Alternatively, you can buy it in a tub and load it into a syringe for dispensing.

For cleaning the boards after the soldering you will need some methylated spirits (also called "metho") and a plastic container of some kind. The plastic container can be a lunch box, a food container or an empty ice cream container. Choose the size of the container depending on how big your circuit boards are and how many you want to put in to wash or soak at one time.

And of course you will need some solder. You can get a reel of tin-lead rosin cored solder from your local electronics shop. Any kind of wire type tin-lead electronic solder is fine.

As a side note, if you want to do lead free soldering then of course you will use lead-free solder instead. The process for lead-free soldering is exactly the same, except that the temperature of your soldering iron needs to be higher. You can use the same gel flux as for normal tin-lead soldering. In general, I recommend that you stay with tin-lead soldering unless you specifically need to do lead-free soldering for a project.

Next we are going to discuss the tools that you need.

First of all, just a quick note – you do not need to buy a "hot air rework station". They are expensive and you do not need one for this process. What I recommend that you do get is a soldering iron with a "reservoir tip".

A reservoir tip means that the soldering iron tip has a concave cavity where you feed the solder in and it stays there, by the magic of surface tension. Then when you place the iron onto the circuit board, the solder in the cavity flows onto the pads and pins of the chip.

The reservoir tip is the best type to use for this kind of soldering but you could also use a normal wide chisel tip on the soldering iron. As long as the wide chisel tip can hold a little volume of solder for the soldering process.

The next tool is a vacuum pickup tool. This is simply a little suction cup with a squeeze bulb attached. You can use different sized suction cup fittings depending on the size of the component that you are picking up.

You will also need some kind of brush. My favorite is a horse hair brush, which is a brush made specially for brushing circuit boards. However, you can use any other kind of natural fibre or nylon brush. For example, a small automotive parts cleaning brush, a toothbrush, or maybe a cosmetic nail brush.

Another item that I have found invaluable is a hypodermic needle. It's a needle that is normally used with a syringe for intravenous injections. It is extremely useful to have one of these on-hand to fix any problems with quad flat pack bent pins, in case you have a little accident and drop or bump your chip.

To turn the hypodermic needle into an extremely useful tool, simply use fine pliers to make a small 90 degree bend on the end of the needle to make a little hook or grabber for the pin legs.

You can get hypodermic needles at your local pharmacy. Just ask at the counter.

I recommend getting an air compressor. Personally I have a 1500 Watt, 24 litre air compressor that I got at a hardware store for less than a hundred dollars. An air compressor is a great investment for anyone doing electronics work. It is useful for cleaning boards and components. It can blow away dust and also move flux residue.

I also recommend using an in-line separator and nozzle with your air compressor. A separator is simply a cylindrical device that connects in-line with your air hose and nozzle. It separates out any moisture from the air that is coming out of the compressor, so that the air that comes out of the nozzle is relatively dry.

Finally, it is important to consider anti-static handling. Anti-static handling means making sure that any static electricity build-up in your body is not discharged through the chip or board. There are various ways that you may build up a charge in your body, including going for a short walk across a carpet.

To prevent from zapping your chips with a discharge through your fingers or hands, you can wear a grounded anti-static wrist strap, or at the very least make sure that you dissipate any static charge in your body first. You can do this by touching a grounded metal object on your workbench, such as the exposed metal screw on a grounded metal equipment case.

That covers all the items that you will need for soldering a quad flat pack, including safety items, consumables and tools.

DIY Electrical Socket Installation

A well planned home has electric sockets at every pre-determined spot in the house, allowing for ease of use anytime of the day. Unfortunately, only 1 or 2 houses out of a hundred have been designed this way. This is the reason why many of us make use of long extension cords that snake around the house – bringing electricity to un-serviced regions of the house. Sometimes it's convenient, oftentimes it's not.

To make the picture more complicated, extension cords are not recommended for heavy or power-intensive appliances, such as washing machines and automatic dryers. In these instances, you really have to install new electric sockets. But how does one do it?

DIY socket installation

Who says it can not be done? "Can not" should be removed from the vocabulary of a competent DIY-er or do-it-yourselfer. If you can follow simple instructions and you know the basic skills of do it yourself home repair, home improvement and renovation, then there is no way that you're going to fail.

Note of warning

If you think that the power cables in your house have already been battered too much by overuse, misuse or by it general age, then leave the task to a qualified electrician who can do it professionally. Losing a finger or a whole hand to electricity is never a pretty sight. Do not bite off what you can not chew, especially if you're dealing with electricity.

The steps

1. Safety first: turn of the main switch, and make sure that all the lines that you would be touching have absolutely no power. If you think some lines are not controlled by an automatic main power switch, use a small volt tester to make sure. If you can, remove the wounded wires inside the automatic switch to completely render the lines inside the house power-less.

2. Install the sockets one by one. Make sure that you know what kinds of circuits you are dealing with. For example, radial circuits have more than one wire in them. There are earth wires, positive and negative wires, etc. Make sure that you attach these properly to the new sockets before anything else.

3. Remember that sockets should be well above possible flood levels. Flood levels vary from region to region, as well as country to country. As a general rule of thumb, electric sockets and electrical appliances should be placed at least 170 mm above the base ground level. Adjust accordingly, based on your own calculations. But do not place the electric sockets too high up that they become unusable.

4. If you plan to install surface-mounted electrical sockets, then you are in luck. These are relatively easy to install and far easier to observe for defects than other types. Though a bit bulkier, surface-mounted electrical sockets can be easily installed and just as easily removed.

5. Surface-mounted electrical sockets should have "safe boxes" that have been screwed in place before the actual socket is placed inside. Never install "naked" surface-mounted electrical sockets as these can cause immediate shock or even death, especially to small children and pets.

6. Flush-mounted electrical sockets are more difficult to install; you actually have to install it behind the wall. But if you do choose flush-mounted over surface-mounted, you would have the benefit of having a neater installation, minus the bulk.

Penis Skin Benefit With Man 1 Man Oil

The human penis is not like any other male organ found in the animal kingdom and, in particular, mammals. Unlike most other mammals, which have erectile bone, humans rely on the arteries and capillaries of their phallus to gain a full erection.This is attributed to the fact that the male human organ becomes engorged with blood, which then causes the penis to stand upright and become erect when sexually aroused. Therefore, care of penile skin and blood vessels is extremely important in order to fully enjoy sexual activity and maintain an erection.

For those of you who are not familiar with the constitution of the skin of the penis, a male’s manhood consists of a shaft that contains nerve endings, which give it sensitivity, and a head, which is medically referred to as the glans. The outer shaft of the penis and glans are filled with tiny capillaries while the main body of the phallus, which is comprised of tissue columns, contains arteries that are a part of the main arterial flow and enable the male organ to become erect.

Prolonged intercourse or aggressive masturbation may damage penile skin, expose capillaries, and desensitize the erogenous tissue of the penis. Man 1 Man Oil, when used daily, can restore a youthful appearance to the skin of your manhood, increase skin sensitivity over time, and help smooth phallic skin.

Regular use of Man 1 helps to restore the skin of the penis by repairing skin cells that may have been damaged during sexual intercourse or masturbation. This is because Man 1 Oil is made especially for the shaft of your phallus and the glans. It contains Vitamin E, D, A, B5 and C as well as Alpha Lipoic Acid, L-Arginine, Acetyl L Carnitine, and Shea Butter, which help protect and restore penile skin cells to their former glory.

Man 1 is a regenerative product that prevents moisture evaporation from phallic skin, reduces skin and vein damage created by dry rubbing, and enables penile skin to keep a soft and youthful appearance.

Don’t wait until it is too late! Buy Man 1 today and protect your best asset, so that you, too, can look your best always.

Shopping For Motion Sensor Outdoor Lighting – Our Surprising Discoveries

This article is about our shopping trip to find motion sensor outdoor lighting, and it describes some of the surprising discoveries we made. After reading this article you will have an overview of some of the types and styles of lighting for both security purposes and yard illumination.

A few months ago we decided to install outdoor lighting for our new home. We had heard about motion sensor outdoor lighting, and because we were attracted by their huge energy saving advantages, we decided to go shopping for these types of units. We had not kept up with the advances in security systems over the years and had a preconceived idea of drab silver floodlights with large bulbs. So, when we looked around the lighting section of a large home supply store, we were absolutely astounded by the huge variety of types and designs of motion sensor models. It was actually quite overwhelming, and if it wasn’t for the help of a very knowledgeable and patient store assistant, we would surely have left the store without making a purchase.

The first thing that we discovered was that there were in fact two categories to choose from: those models that were intended for general yard illumination and those that were installed for security purposes. The variety of designs of motion sensor fixtures for paths, porches, decks and gardens was incredible. Many of them had brass or pewter finishes, whilst others were made out of wrought iron or framed in wood. There were also beautiful carriage style models, wall sconces as well as free-standing post lights. We purchased two of these in the old lamp-lighter style. We also bought several spotlights to illuminate the doorways of our home, the stairway up to our deck and to highlight a fountain and a beautiful flowering tree we have in our garden. One of the best things we discovered was a wireless remote motion detector. We installed this at the entrance to our driveway. Now as soon as our car turns into the driveway, the remote sensor activates all of the spotlights and path-lights around our house.

Obviously, the security lighting fixtures were not nearly attractive as the others, but I was surprised to see how energy efficient some of these powerful floodlights were, especially the LED models. We actually decided to use LEDs for both our garden illumination and our security floodlights. We chose solar floodlights for remote areas of our yard where there wasn’t a convenient electric hook-up. The solar units are just as powerful as our electric units, and they can be easily moved around. One great discovery was that all of the yard lights had a manual switch, so when we wanted to have barbecues or just spend time in the garden at night, we could over-ride the sensor and have the lighting on all of the time. Motion sensor outdoor lighting is really a great invention, for it allows you to save electricity most of the time and still be able to have constant illumination whenever you need it.