6 Types Of LED Lights

LED lights are loved by many people as they consume little energy and last for a long time. If you are looking for the units it’s good to know that there are many types you can go for. The many types include:

Miniature LEDs

These are the indicators you see on mobile phones, remote controls, digital cameras, and television sets. Since they are small, they produce small light that is in form of a long-range beam of light. The cool thing is that they are compatible with different types of circuit boards. They come in “ready to fit” mode thus you don’t have to worry of how to install them.

LED strips

They feature high-powered LEDs that are mounted on a thin flexible circuit board using an adhesive coating. On first look, they resemble long strips with small twinkling stars. You can use them to decorate different rooms such as dance halls, kitchen, and the sitting area. There are some people that also use them to decorate their vehicles.

LED spot lights

These offer brightness and durability. They are made from tough materials and produce a lot of light ideal for you if you have a large showroom. They come in different colors that you can use to attract attention to the different areas of your product. They are also used in attracting attention in arenas.

Corn bulbs

They are known as corn bulbs as they resemble the ear of a corn. Inside the bulb, there are 80-180 tiny lights that work together to produce a lot of light. You can use the bulbs anywhere but they are ideal when you install them in your house. Experts recommend them when you are looking for energy efficient units that give you a lot of light under little maintenance.

Tube lights

They are slimmer and shorter than the regular lights thus you can install them in a wide range of areas. Some of the areas you can install them include: conference rooms, home and in the office. They are eco-friendly and last for a long time. Unfortunately, they don’t produce a lot of light.

Panel lights

These are high-grade indoor lighting units made from aluminum. They come in different powers such as 12W, 18W, 72W, 36W, 48W, 36Wand 85W. The good thing about them is that they are easy to install and last for a long time. According to the manufacturers, they last up to 50,000 hours.

Floor Safes – Proven Protection

With an alarming increase on crime rates these days, more and more people are getting cynical about their belongings and how they can protect them against intrusion and the elements. Thus, manufacturers and entrepreneurs came up with an idea on how to safeguard man’s valuable things and properties through a device that can endure the test of time. And so, floor safes came into the limelight. Basically, a safe has three main classifications or configurations. They are the wall or wall-mounted safes, the freestanding safes, and the in-floor or simply floor safes. Without going into the details of the other two, let us discuss the compositions of floor safes.

1. The Nature Of Floor Safes

Basically, floor safes, like its two counterparts, are specially designed to provide protection and security to valuables and other pertinent documents. As it name suggests, floor safes are exclusively made to be mounted into the concrete slab of the floor. Because of its position, manufacturers of floor safes strongly suggest that the position of the safe must be carefully analysed and considered so as to maximize its potential. If mounted properly end extensively, floor safes can be the best protection against burglary and even tragedies like fire.

2. Installation

Floor safe installations are actually more complicated and more expensive compared to wall safes. When installing floor safes, you have to cut a slab out of the floor first. Then, you have to dig a hole. After which the safe is placed into the hole and more concrete is poured to cover the area. This will firmly ground the safe and prevent it from being physically removed during a burglary.

3. About Floor Safes

Floor safes are under the category of composites safes. That means that they have a combination of two functions, to combat fire and burglary. In its entirety, the floor safe has been tested against all forms of burglary. The ratings that floor safes obtain will also determine the price of the item.

One drawback that consumers find on floor safes is that it has a tick wall covering, which, by practicality, floor safes render smaller space as compared to the typical metal vaults or the ordinary filing cabinets. But people must understand that the main reason why floor safes are designed this way is because of its purpose, and that is to protect the valuables and not just be a mere storage item.

The other feature of floor safes is its electronic lock. It provides convenience to the user because they no longer have to rotate on a counting basis so as to open the safe. Plus, because it is electronic, the floor safe’s combination can be changed as often as you like.

The ironic drawback of floor safes is that, during a burglary, the burglar will have no option to try and take the safe with him, which may instigate him to be more hostile and violent with nearby hostages in hopes of obtaining the combination. Thus, the floor safe should be considered the absolute ideal safe for coverage at night and when no one is present.

Wallpapering The Right Way – Part 3

Last time we looked at wallpaper paste and which paste will suit you for the job in hand. In this article I'm going to let you know how to prepare your wall ready for papering.

Preparing the surface

Time spend preparing a wall surface will be rewarded with a decent finish. No matter how good your papering technique, a poor surface must be smooth and free from dust and grease or the job will end in disaster. Only plasterboard with oil-sealed skimmed joints demands little preparation. Both new plaster and previously painted walls needs plenty, and you should allow for this when you plan the job.

New plaster: Leave new plaster to dry out thoroughly for at least six months before papering it. Paper it any sooner and you'll only have to do it all again when the damp starts coming thought. In the meantime, fill any blemishes in the surface and rub down with sandpaper. If you do this in stages, a layer at a time the end result will be so much more rewarding.

New plaster must also be sized before it is papered, to provide a key for the paste and to stop the walls absorbing too much water too quickly. Commercial size is available in powder form: you mix it with water, paint it on the walls and leave it to dry. In most cases, however, a dilute solution of your wallpaper paste makes a perfectly adequate substitute.

Papered surfaces: Never paper over existing wall coverings and the paste may soften them and cause peeling later on. To strip ordinary paper, start by scoring the surface with a wire brush or nail (take care not to damage the plaster underneath). Then soak it with warm water or a proprietary stripper like Polypeel, applied with a brush or sponge.

Using a wide blade stripping knife and starting from the bottom, scrape off the soaked paper. Again, take care not to damage the plaster underneath. Afterwards, smooth any roughness left on the surface with sandpaper, wash down the wall and let it dry thoroughly before pasting.

If your walls are papered with vinyl, you may be able to get away with just peeling of the surface layer and papering onto the paper backing left on the wall. But make sure the backing is firmly stuck before you do this: if in doubt, strip it in the normal way.

The most effective but expensive way of stripping wallpaper is to hire a steam stripper. Normally there is no need – water or stripper work perfectly well. Nevertheless, on heavier papers such as Anaglypta and wood chip, a steam stripper is a good investment, especially if you have a lot to do.

Painted surfaces: Scrape off any flaking emulsion or gloss paint and sand the patches smooth. If sound, wash the surface down to remove any traces greasy of oily stains – sugar soap generally gives better results that ordinary soap – then lightly score to give a key for the paper.

That's it for now next time we will start of hanging paper. Doing all this ground work may seem long winded and pointless. But you will defiantly see better results in the end.

Van Insurance Quote – Three Must Ask Questions

If you're a van owner you have already have an insurance but you may be considering getting a new quote to see if you can save the extra money. Before you look there are a few things you will have think about. Here are three questions that you need to ask yourself.

Question # 1 – How much can I afford to spend? – Ask yourself how much can you send on your van insurance before looking for your quote on the internet. Figure out the budget you can afford and the money you can play with and this will make looking for your quote easier later on.

Question # 2 – What will I use your vehicle For? – First before you start looking for your quote ask yourself what you will use your van for. Will you use it for business, for family use or maybe both. Whatever the use of your vehicle you need to know before you look for your quote.

Question # 3 – Where will you drive your van? – The location you drive will affect your van insurance quote so ask yourself this question before you get your first quote. Do you drive in the country, the city or do you drive overseas in the EU.

You may want to ask yourself these questions before you look for a new quote and you find you be more prepared and will have a better idea what your looking for when speaking to your agent the next time you want renew.

How Much Does a Fitted Suspended Ceiling Cost?

Suspended Ceiling Installation Cost

Maybe you’re thinking of relocating premises and the new building will either need a new suspended ceiling or the old suspended ceiling is looking very tired with water stained, missing or broken tiles. You might already have a suspended ceiling and you would like to replace it with a fire rated ceiling, an acoustically superior ceiling or would like to improve the insulation properties to save on heating bills. Whatever the scenario you’ve probably come here looking for a provisional cost to enable you to see if your project is financially viable.

There are literally hundreds of different types of ceiling tiles available on the market today and so this article can only give you an approximate idea of cost.

The price of a ceiling also varies depending on lots of other factors but the main ones are location in the country and the size and type of the ceiling. As I said there are lots of other factors so for this article we will assume the floor to existing ceiling/soffit height is anywhere up to 4000mm high, that it’s on the ground floor of the building with easy access and parking.

Budget Suspended Ceiling Cost

A low cost ceiling complete with ceiling tiles in an area of 30m2 to 50m2 will cost approximately £20 to £30 per square meter reducing to about £12 to £18 per square meter in larger areas.

Mid Range Ceiling Cost

A mid range ceiling complete with ceiling tiles in an area of 30m2 to 50m2 will cost approximately £25 to £35 per square meter reducing to about £15 to £22 per square meter in larger areas.

High Performance Ceiling Cost

A high performance ceiling complete with ceiling tiles in an area of 30m2 to 50m2 will cost approximately £35 to £45 per square meter reducing to about £25 to £35 per square meter in larger areas.

MF Plasterboard Ceiling Cost

For plasterboard ceilings in an area of 30m2 to 50m2 will cost approximately £30 to £40 per square meter reducing to about £25 to £30 per square meter in larger areas. Unlike the ceilings above this would also need to be plastered and painted after it is completed.

Insulation Cost

If you were to add insulation quilt to be fitted above the ceiling, depending on the thickness you would be looking at somewhere between £5 to £8 per square meter adding on to these rates.

Small Projects

In projects that are less than 30m2 I would assume it is going to cost £300 to £400 minimum for a low cost ceiling.

These prices should give you some idea of how much a ceiling is going to cost you for a local firm to supply and fit a suspended ceiling and I would add an additional 10% to 20% for London areas.

Marble Flooring, the Cool Alternative?

There are many myths about certain types of flooring materials. Some are believed to be easily damaged, others to be difficult to maintain or keep clean, still others to be limited it their variety or style. Marble floors, however, seem to have escaped most of these often unfounded concerns. Here we will discuss not only the reasons why a marble floor is a great choice for a new home, but also its cooling properties in warm climates, timeless visual appeal, its durability and ease of cleaning and maintenance. Let's look at some of the advantages and disadvantages of this fascinating medium.

Marble floors conjure up visions of cool, white, Spanish style houses with small paved courtyards and sunny terraces. Hot, sunny days and long cool drinks enjoyed around a low, wrought iron table in the middle of a large, airy room with a white marble floor. In the heat of summer, just imagine walking barefoot on that cool, smooth marble floor. There is the first of the great advantages of marble flooring. It stays cool in the heat of summer and feels smooth to the touch.

As marble floors can be found in many homes in warmer climates, there is a huge market for them. The quality and finish of the marble is very high and due to the myriad of different natural patterns of veins running through the stone, there is a huge variety to choose from. For this, among other reasons, marble never seems to go out of style.

Marble as a flooring medium is surprisingly durable. When it is first laid, it is treated with a propriety stain resistant sealant, which protects the floor for around ten years, after which it is recommended that it be resealed. It will survive most spills as long as they are cleaned up right away, although strong acidic liquids may cause stains, which can be professionally removed. Other than keeping them clean, marble floors are virtually maintenance free.

Cleaning marble floors is as easy as mopping with hot water and leaving to dry. A propriety cleaning fluid can be added to the water, although this must be mild, bleach-free, non-caustic and pH neutral. There are several brands available, but if in doubt only go for the ones that are clearly marked "suitable for marble floors".

The disadvantages of marble floors are few. Once professionally laid, they will remain in place for their extremely long lifetime, unlike ceramic tiles, which can lift with moisture invading through cracked grouting. They can be stained or marked by spillage of caustic liquids if not cleaned up right away, but this is a common disadvantage with most flooring materials. While marble is wonderfully cool to the touch in the heat of summer, it is a different story in winter. A marble floor can then make a house feel cold. This can be simply remedied by using Hessian backed rugs to cover the floor during the cold months.

With all the above in mind, it seems clear that marble flooring is a good choice for a new home, especially those located in warmer climates. They look good, come in a variety of styles and are long lasting and durable. They are easy to clean and maintain and have few disadvantages. All in all, marble really is a cool choice for any home.

Enhancement Exercises Vs Penis Pumps – What Causes Growth And What Causes Side-Effects?

Two of the most popular options for getting a bigger penis size are natural enhancement exercises and using penis pumps. Both of these methods claim to increase blood flow into the penile shaft, but they both do not work the same way for enlarging a man’s penis size. If you are interested in making your penis reach a significant size (permanently), and also develop some other exciting benefits (such as lasting several times longer with sex… and more), then read on to discover which of these 2 enlargement methods are by far the best option to go with.

Just a heads up: I’ve used BOTH methods myself before. I started off using pumps and then I wound up going with penis exercises. That being said, there will be no bias in this article. I’m just speaking from what I know to be the truth about these 2 methods. You can make a decision on which route to take based off of my analysis… but just please understand I’m not trying to steer you one way or the other. If anything, I certainly want you to decide to go NATURAL with getting bigger… and that’s because going with the other side of the coin will lead to some serious (and dangerous side-effects).

First, How Does Each Method Work?

– Pumps work by creating a vacuum on your penis to suck blood into the penile shaft. The blood then get’s “trapped” in the penis by using a rubber ring that is placed around the base of your manhood. The ring keeps your erection during intercourse. This all will slightly make your penis look bigger.

– Penis exercises work by you performing massaging, stretching, and tensing exercises on all areas of your manhood. All of these routines will speed up blood circulation, strengthen and enlarge your penile chambers, and will also strengthen your PC muscle.

Second, How Does Doing Each Method Affect Love Making?

– With penis pumps, many complain that it is a serious interference with intimacy during intercourse. Also, these tools have to be used before sex every time in order for you to get that slightly bigger erection. That of course, in the long haul, will make it pretty annoying.

– With penis exercises, there are no interferences with love-making. You do the exercises as taught in a guide, and you can continue comfortably with intercourse during your enlargement process.

Third, What About Side-Effects?

– Penis pumps can burst blood vessels, cause issues with the skin on your penis, cause serious pain, cause soreness, cause deformation, cause lymph blisters, and can cause impotence.

– Penis exercises can cause soreness on your penis if you do not do the exercises properly, and they can cause chaffing if you don’t use natural lubrication for the exercises that require lubrication.

Fourth, What Are Some Common Complaints?

– The complaints that most men have with using pumps is that their erection size doesn’t last, there are complaints that the erection doesn’t look normal, there are complaints of feeling numb, there are complaints of discomfort when ejaculating, some men have noted that their penis has become thinner after using pumps, many men complain that they have become dependent upon using pumps in order to develop (and keep) an erection, and there are complaints of weaker ejaculation.

– Common complaints with penis exercises are with some of the exercises, you have to develop a 1/2 erection, and for most men, this is pretty difficult to do, and another common complaint is chaffing, and that of course is fixed by following the recommendation mentioned in most penis exercise programs to use lubrication while doing certain exercises.

Fifth, What Type Of Results To Expect?

– Pumps will temporarily make your penis erection somewhat bigger and harder.

– Penis exercises can permanently increase the length up to an extra 4 inches, increase the thickness of your erection, make the hardness of your erection stronger, increase the muscular look of your erection, make you ejaculate further and stronger, extend how long you can last during sex, and improve the overall health of your manhood.

Bottom line, as you can clearly see from above, penis exercises wins this battle hands down. And there is only one reason why exercising your manhood wins… and that’s because this method is 100% natural. Any unnatural method will not be able to provide you with significant results, permanent results, and do it all without developing side-effects or pain like a natural method such as penis exercises.

Horseback Riding Instruction – How to Recognize Bridle Lameness

Often a confusing and difficult to diagnose condition, bridle lameness is also referred to as Zügellahmheit or ‘rein lameness’ in German. It is important that you watch your mount carefully as you ride him for signs of discomfort which need to be cared for as soon as possible.

What Are The Signs Of Bridle Lameness?

A horse that appears perfectly fine while in the paddock or lunged in a halter may go lame when being ridden or lunged in the bridle. When this happens, the horse is said to be “bridle lame” and may manifest in uneven head nodding, the horse appearing to be lame in one foreleg, or appearing to have spinal pain or stiffness.

The horse will lean towards one rein and away from the other which will affect his strides when walking or trotting. Apparent lameness results from the horse’s unbalanced contact as he may appear crooked and may shorten his stride in one hind leg to compensate for the lean to one side.

Bridle lameness can effect a horse regardless of energy level or health. If a horse is not managed properly in the early phases of its training, even an experienced rider may unwittingly cause the condition by forcing the animal to over exert itself. The horse may fluctuate between being hesitant and rushing ahead. Horses may not exhibit the behavior in an extended trot, though in collected trot they may try to go above the bit and refuse to step forwards. Nodding head and non-symmetrical stepping is also common.

What Are The Causes Of Bridle Lameness And How Can It Be Treated?

A rider who lacks balance and is stiff in one arm can cause bridle lameness in his mount. Rider stiffness results in a mount that is not able to relax in the back. As a result, the horse’s legs are forced to work harder to compensate for the imbalance. This can result in an injury to the horse’s leg due to the uneven stress.

It is important that the rider learn to develop a balanced seat and proper and equal contact on both reins if their horse is showing signs of bridle lameness. Allow the animal to discover his natural stride and rhythm without rushing him as you ride forwards.

It will take a lot of patience to correct a horse that has been bridle lame for an extended time. Learning to function without being crooked will take some time to get used to. Once the manner of his movement is corrected to maintain an even, flexible contact he will perform properly when in the saddle.

Who is Durrrr on Full Tilt Poker?

Better known by his Full Tilt Poker alias 'durrrr', Tom Dwan was born in Edison, New Jersey, on 30th July, 1986. At only 23 years old, Dwan has become one of the most popular poker players in the world, winning millions playing online, and appearing on Full Tilts 'High Stakes poker' television shows, but just how did a teenager change the face of online poker and win millions?

As a teenager he regularly played for fun with his family, but when he was 17 years old he decided to try his luck at online poker. He created an account at PokerStars, using the alias Holdem_NL, and deposited $ 50. He began playing $ 6 sit n go tournaments, and almost blew it all when he found himself with around $ 14 left in his account. He had a good run however and soon grew the $ 50 into several hundreds and decided cash games was where he could earn most money. He became a member of Two Plus Two (the popular poker forum), and began grinding at the low stake cash games. Dwan was a regular winner and was rapidly moving up in stakes as his bankroll ballooned.

Soon Dwan found himself playing $ 10 / $ 20 No-Limit Hold'em and was crushing the games, which were the largest stakes available online at the time. Being such a prolific winner at the biggest games available brought lots of attention to Dwan and soon the whole poker community was talking about him. At this point the $ 10 / $ 20 stakes just were not high enough for Dwan and he went in search of bigger online poker games, which is when he found European poker sites which offered $ 200 / $ 400 heads-up tables. Yet again Dwan proved to be the biggest winner in the games however action dried up and no-one wanted to play against him, forcing him to search for another new room to play at.

He soon found out that Full Tilt Poker had began hosting the highest stake games available online and immediately created an account, this time with a new alias. He decided to go by the name of 'durrrr' in the hope of tilting his opponents when they lost to him. As usual Dwan began crushing the No-Limit Hold'em games, however there was lots of high stake Omaha action and Dwan found himself losing his winnings. Dwan persisted though and soon began winning the PLO games too, making him online pokers biggest money earner.

Despite crushing the online games for years, 2009 has been without doubt his most exciting year. As well as his continued success playing online, he announced the now famous 'durrrr challenge', challenging anyone (except for close friend Phil 'OMGClayAiken' Galfond), to play him heads-up multi-tabling four tables at $ 200 / $ 400 stakes for 50,000 hands or until someone quits, with the opponent having the choice of game selection – either NLHE or PLO. Dwan has offered 3: 1 odds for his opponents, if he wins they must pay him $ 500,000 however if his opponent wins Dwan must pay $ 1.5 million, all this on top of the winnings over the 50k hands! Finnish high stakes poker player Patrik Antonius was the first to accept the challenge, opting to playing PLO, and their match is still continuing because of conflicting schedules.

As well as this, he set a live version of the challenge, with English player Sammy 'Any Two' George being the first to accept. The live version has a $ 500,000 buy-in with blinds of $ 500 / $ 1000 and will last for 500 hands or until someone decides to quit. The challenge is set to take place in December in Las Vegas.

He also made history by winning the largest pot ever televised – $ 1.1 million. He won it during filming for the fourth season of Full Tilt Pokers 'Million Dollar Cash Game', with Phil Ivey being the player to pay off his straight.

And at only 23 years old Dwan was considered for pokers greatest honour this year, being shortlisted for the WSOP Hall of Fame. Although Dwan was not inducted, it shows just how much of an impact he has had on the poker world, online especially, and he will without doubt be a Hall of Famer in the future.

Which Honda Car Accessories Do You Prefer

There are many types of Honda vehicles which creates a large array of Honda car accessories to power up or brighten up the look and feel of the car for the owner. Many car enthusiasts just can’t drive around in a car with all the regular amenities that come along with it when it is purchased. There are so many ways that they can make their car look better, drive better, and be a lot more fun for them to drive.

For the Honda Accord, the Honda car accessories include back-up sensors, rear view camera, remote engine starter, auto day and night mirrors that have compasses on them, Bluetooth hands free link kit, interior illumination kit, engine block heater, 6′ 3.5mm mini stereo plug cord, first aid kits, LED lights, magnetic cell phone holders, all season floor mats, custom design interior trim, cargo management systems, custom fit heat shield windshield shade, body side molding, car covers, door edge guards, fog light kits, moon roof visor, door visors, full front nose mask, bumper protectors, and splash guards along with many other Honda car accessories.

For the Honda Civic, the Honda car accessories include cd player, in dash charger, cassette deck, auto day and night mirrors, XM satellite radio, car cover, car cover cable and lock, chrome exhaust finisher, fog light kit, moon roof visor, half nose mask, full nose mask, splash guards, deck lid spoiler, rear wing spoiler, trunk spring remover and installer, front under spoiler, side under spoilers, door edge guards, sport alloy wheels, wheel locks, engine block heater, and chrome license plate frames.

For the Honda CR-V which is more of a sport utility vehicle, the Honda car accessories include auto dimming mirrors with compass, portable navigation systems, back up sensors, remote engine starters, all season floor mats, retractable cargo covers, cargo nets, wood grain trim kit, rear armrest trays, custom fit heat shield windshield shade, front splash guards, fog lights, exhaust finisher, door visors, air deflector, nose mask, moon roof visor, running boards, side steps either in chrome or black, tailgate spoiler, body side moldings, roof rack, bike attachment, ski attachment, luggage basket, door edge guards, trailer hitch, alloy wheels, and other Honda car accessories.

For the Honda Odyssey which is a family type van, the Honda car accessories include six disk in dash CD player, XM radio kit, security system, back up sensor, auto day and night mirrors with compass, leather steering wheel cover, all season floor mats, 3rd row all season floor mat, wood grain trim kit, touring model 2nd row center console, cargo tray, cargo mat, 3rd row sunshade, second row seat cover, third row seat cover, expandable clothes bar, fenderwell trim, door edge trim, fog lights, splash guards, full nose mask, moon roof visor, door visors, air deflector, running boards, roof rack, trailer hitch, and many other Honda Car accessories to make a family trip organized and roomy.

Are Cheap Awnings Worth It?

Having an awning does present a lot of benefits for your home. Having an awning in the lawn, patio, window or door will allow you to control the weather in a sense because you can block out strong sunlight, harsh winds and cold drafts. An awning also allows you to enjoy the outdoors without worrying about the weather condition that much. Awnings also add flair to your home as they come in different designs that enhance the beauty of your home. Adding them to windows, doors and patios gives your home a very cozy and classic appearance. But despite all of the benefits that awnings can offer to homes, many shy away from installing them because of the costs involved. Many think that buying and installing an awning is expensive and not worth it, but this is not entirely true. Just like any other purchasing decision, knowing where to look is important in scoring a cheap but quality buy. There are many cheap awnings for sale out there, and many of which are of good quality.

Hearing the word "cheap" combine with any good for sale brings a stream of doubt and hesitation in the minds of many people. But there is no reason to shy away from these goods, because they might be better than buying the more expensive versions of the product. Many awnings for sale is branded, of good quality and are packed with many features set for convenience. But the downside to these awnings is that they are ridiculously pricey. There are many cheaper awnings out there that offer the same quality and features that more expensive brands can offer. Cheap awnings may offer the same kind of protection and aesthetic value to your home without you shelling out much money.

A cheap awning may lack some of the technological advancements that expensive awnings have, but think about it. There are features that you really do not need and you can do without. So why add burden to your wallet by purchasing awnings with these features, when you can buy an awning without these features, but can still deliver good results? Furthermore, you can actually enhance the awning's features by buying accessories for it, instead of buying the more expensive one with built-in accessories. Many will find it surprising that the cost of their cheap awning and installed accessories is a lot less than buying a awning with built-in features!

There are many specialty shops out there that offer awnings and their accessories for a fraction of the cost of more expensive awnings. Do not let the price fool you though-these awnings deliver good and quality performance that can match the more expensive ones. Again the key is to know where to look!

Parking Lot Pavement – Why Sealcoating is Important

Does your asphalt pavement have excessive cracks or potholes even though it was recently redone?

Houston weather with the excessive summer high temperatures, high amount of rain and year-round humidity take a toll on asphalt parking lots. In addition, leaking fluids from cars in parking lots tend to destroy asphalt as well.

When asphalt is not treated with the proper sealant, oxidation occues and dries out the asphalt binder. When this occurs, the pavement loses flexibility and will start to crack. Oxidation is when the sun’s ultraviolet rays harden and dry out the asphalt surface. This accelerates erosion and reduces asphalt thickness so that in just a few years the pavement needs to be totally resurfaced.

As oxidation occurs, then the rain, chemicals and other pollutants seep into the cracks and the pavement deterioration begins to rapidly progress. Once the process starts, the damage has occurred.

Applying a sealcoat protects the surface of the asphalt and reduces the damaging effects of oxidation and the Houston weather extremes. This application will greatly extend the service life of pavement as well as enhance the overall appearance. Sealcoating keeps and will even restore the original dark color of asphalt to greatly enhance the overall appearance of the property.

If you were to look at a cross section of treated and untreated asphalt, you will see the difference that a sealcoat makes.

In addition to the improved physical appearance, the sealed pavement becomes a smoother surface to make sweeping and maintenance easier and less costly. The most important aspect is the ability of the asphalt pavement to resist the damaging effects of gas, oil and chemical salts.

What does asphalt consist of?

Asphalt pavement is a mixture of crushed stone (known as aggregates) and chemical binders that glue the mixture together. Over time the sun’s ultraviolet rays break down the binding materials allowing moisture to fill in the cracks and subjecting the empty spaces (known as voids) to expand and contract breaking down the integrity of the pavements. This is most noticeable when pavement changes from black to a dull gray. As the process continues, the binding materials continue to weaken until large visible cracks and potholes develop.

What does sealcoating do?

Sealcoating prevents the adhesive qualities of the asphalt binders from being broken down as quickly. The most important benefit is it’s ability to prevent premature pavement wear. Sealcoating is a good investment when applying new asphalt pavement and parking lots or when updating those in need of minor repair.

How is sealcoating applied?

First the pavement surface is swept and all visible potholes or cracks are cleaned and filled. The sealcoat is applied using a sprayer to ensure proper thickness. A high quality sealcoat has the proper ratio of additives and fine sand as an aggregate to make the survey more durable and non-slip. We recommend a second coat on roadways and other high volume traffic areas to ensure longer service life of the pavement.

As we mentioned, it is important to fill cracks to keep them from expanding and causing others to form. We suggest using a rubberized hot crack fill material to provide a flexible that reaches into cracks and crevices. We also recommend that during all pavement repairs that you make sure pedestrians and vehicles are kept away until all materials have had time to completely dry.

You can expect these types of pavement repairs will last for many years of normal use.

Landscaping With Bridges

Using A Bridge In Your Backyard Design

You may want to consider building a bridge in your garden if you have enough space for it. It can really add a rather original and attractive angle to your design scheme. Overall adding a bridge would a fairly quick process, and there are quite a few ways to go about it.

Add a pond and a bridge to your landscape

Ponds are a great focal point in any garden and also add a very chilled and relaxed feel to your overall design. For instance you could locate the pond close to your patio or decking, then add a path and bridge so you can easily cross the expanse of water. It is guaranteed to add quite of bit of pizzazz to your décor!

Doing It Yourself vs. Hiring A Specialist

If you’re planning to add a bridge to your back garden, you can either decide to do all the work yourself, or get a professional in to get the job done. This last option may work out to be rather costly so you may want to consider building the bridge on your own – this would also give you greater satisfaction showing off your handiwork!

How To Go About Building A Bridge In Your Yard

In addition to some creativity you will need basic materials such as timber and nails to build a footbridge to go over an existing water feature like a pond. Then, before you get started in earnest you will need to consider the particulars of your backyard such as whether there will be a path going from the patio to the bridge, how long the bridge needs to be and what shape would best fit with the rest of your scheme.

How to Get Started

Before you get digging you should plot out the area where the pond will be using paint. Once this is done you can get your spade out, remembering to dig a few inches deeper that the intended depth of the finished water feature, say about 15 to 20″.

Cleaning Up The Rubble

As you need you will unearth pointed rocks and hard roots that could pierce through the lining of the pond: you therefore need to remove all debris that can get in the way, leaving the surface even. If this is not done properly then you run the risk of the overall result looking off once the pond is filled with water.

Using a Layer Of Sand

In order to help keeping the pond liner firmly where you need it to stay you can use a layer of sand underneath. You can always cut any additional material that is not required but you should keep enough liner to put over the edges of your pond. A useful trick to make the liner more flexible and help it stretch is to leave it to warm up in a sunny spot first.

Putting The Bridge In

When you are finally ready to install your footbridge in its intended location you should position stones all around the edges of your pond. You can be quite creative there and add even more interest to the feature by choosing rocks of particular shapes or color. As you put your bridge in place ensure that it is completely stable and is properly anchored, so you can enjoy its great decorative effect straight away.

Build DIY PC – PC Assembly Made Easy

When you have the new PC components items available, next step is to Assemble the PC together. This is the most interesting part and also the most rewarding part when your system is up and running, all credits to Yourself !!

Essential Tools required:

1) A screwdriver (Cross-shaped)

Optional Recommended Items:

1) Torchlight (To illuminate hard to see areas)

2) Antistatic wrist strap (To discharge of any static charges)

Let's start now. Firstly, discharge yourself of any static charges by touching the metal casing or attaching the other side of the antistatic wrist strap to the metal casing.

1) Open the case

2) Install the motherboard

Find the motherboard standoffs that should have come with the case. Insert the I / O Shield that came with your motherboard. Now locate the screw holes on your motherboard and find the corresponding holes on the motherboard plate (or tray) in the case. Put a standoff in each of these holes on the tray and position the motherboard so that you can see the holes in the top of the standoffs through the screw holes in the motherboard. Now fasten a screw through each of the motherboard screw holes into the standoffs underneath. These screws should be snug but not tight. With the motherboard in, we are now able to start adding in other components.

3) Install the CPU.

As I mentioned earlier, the processor (CPU) and motherboard go hand-in-hand, so you should spend some time planning and researching what you really desires and buy compatible CPU / motherboard components, just like the importance of buying the right shoe size for yourself. Given that this is a minimum system upgrade, you are saving up quite a bit through reusing other components; I suggest you build a better performing system so that it can serve you for several years to come.

Before start, please read the manual provided with the motherboard / CPU carefully, understand the different parts, and the installation diagrams before proceeding. Then again, it is not very difficult with only 3 simple steps to success.

1st step to success: Install the CPU

I will be using Intel Socket 775 as illustration as it is the latest socket used so far.

-Remove The protective socket on the new socket protecting the pins

-Open The lever and lift up the metal flap so as to install the CPU

-While Carefully holding the CPU at the edges, look for the notch in the corner and match it up with the socket. Slowly lay down the CPU in the socket, before lowering the metal flap, and closing the socket lever to secure the CPU.

2nd step to success: Install the CPU heatsink

If you like to go to a cool place to enjoy some aircon when you are hot, the same can be said of the CPU which you have just installed. We need to dissipate the high heat generated by the CPU so that it would not overheat and fry.

-I Am recommending getting hold of some thermal paste which you can apply evenly on the CPU surface for better heat conductivity and dissipation. (To note: Intel® boxed processor already come with their integrated thermal solutions, and so does not need extra efforts)

-Align Heat sink onto the Socket containing the CPU, with the fan cable orientated closest to fan power connector, and check for any entanglement.

-Press Down on fastener caps with thumb to install and lock. Repeat with the other 3 fasteners.

3rd step to success: Power up the heat sink

This is done by connecting the fan cable from step 2 to the CPU_FAN connector located on the motherboard, which is located very close to the CPU. Tie up excess cable to prevent interference with fan operation or other components.

Congrats, by the time you finished this, the rest should be a breeze already =)

4) Install the Memory

With a new motherboard and faster processor, we will then need more RAM (random access memory) to enable and facilitate this faster performance. Again, you should spend some time planning and researching on memory which is compatible with the new CPU and motherboard you have installed to bring out the best overall performance. To install the RAM modules, you need to unfasten the clips located on each side of the memory slot. Align the RAM module in the socket, such as to match the indent located on the memory chip and the memory slot, for the right facing direction. Push down on the memory module until both clips refasten and a click sound is heard. To change memory, simply press down the both clips at the same time, and the RAM will come out easily.

TIP: Start adding RAM at the slot labeled "Bank 0" or "DIMM 1". If you do not, the system will think there is no memory available and wont boot.

TIP: For newer systems supporting hyper treading technology, you are encouraged to use the dual channel memory functionality by placing 2 sticks of the same memory on alternate slots (ie: slot 1 & 3 or Slot 2 & 4, often differentiated by color as well .) This has been proven to enhance the performance as well.

After installing the new motherboard / CPU, and memory, you are already DONE installing the New essential items you have bought. YEAH !! Now that is left is to migrate the remaining items from the old pc to your "Brand New" PC. =)

5) Install the Power Supply

There will be a bracket at the top of the case where you can mount the power supply, and secure the power supply using screws. The power supply will consists of the following connectors: ATX power connector, ATX_12V connector, IDE power connector, and FDD power connector. Look for the 20 or 24 pin ATX power connector, and plug it into the motherboard allocated power slot. There may also be an additional four or eight pin power lead on the motherboard that needs to be plugged in, which is usually located near the processor socket. Do double confirm with the motherboard manual for details.

TIP: You might want to consider getting a new power supply which rating is at least 300W so as to support any future upgrades you have in mind.

TIP: You need to select the right power supply settings (115v or 220v) depending on your country settings. For newer power supplies, it is equipped with automatic detection, so that will not be an issue at all.

6) Install the Floppy drives / Hard-disks / DVD writers

Floppy disks, Harddisks and DVD ROM / writers communicate with the CPU through data cables commonly called FDD / IDE cables, although newer harddisks now connect via SATA cables for faster data communications.

Note: FDD Cable for floppy disk drives appears smaller and has fewer wires.

Note: Using multiple hard disks If you have intention on using multiple hard disks, you must adjust the settings on the multiple disks to inform the computer system which is the main disk and the other supporting / additional disks. If not done properly, the system can get confused, and the disk may not boot at all. Do read the simple instructions as shown on the harddisk surface for the right way to place the jumpers so as to distinguish between the master drive (main operating system) and the slave drives (other files / documents). This instruction varies across different harddisk manufacturers. This configuration should be done before inserting the IDE cables.

First, remove the front casing of the computer, and remove the 5.25 "plate so as to expose the front of the DVD drives later. Similarly do it for the floppy drive plate. Insert the IDE cables into the floppy drive / harddisk / DVD data connector noting the orientation of the notch in the centre, so as to insert in the right directions. The remaining connector is to be connected to the motherboard. Next, to power up the drives by plugging in the 4 pin molex power connector from the power supply in step 5 into each hard drive and optical drive. For the floppy drive, the power plug is also 4 pins in a row but significantly smaller than that of the hard disk. Need to take note of the power connector orientation as well.

Final securing all disks and optical drives with screws before securing back the front casing cover.

TIP: Recommend that the IDE hard disk be connected to the IDE 1 connector and the optical devices connect to the IDE 2 connector. Maximum of 2 IDE devices per IDE connector. If using multiple IDE hard drives, you should enter BIOS later on and set their boot sequence accordingly.

7) Install the Video Card

For older motherboards, we typically see AGP video card being used, which will be installed onto the AGP socket, which is often brown in color. For newer systems, PCI Express video cards are more commonly used due to better data transfer performance and better resolution performance. Both AGP and PCI Express slots can be identified easily, and is usually located adjacent to the CPU unit.

Now, insert the card into the slot with some force, and check that it is fully inserted with no protruding edges, before screwing it in at the top of the metal bracket. If it has a power connector, connect it with a 4-pin molex connector.

8) Remaining Internal Connections

-Connect The audio cable from the DVD to the motherboard CD_IN connector (if required)

-Connect The power / reset buttons, and signal indicators (those external blinking lights) to the F_Panel connector on the motherboard. (Ie: Power indicator, hardware indicator, internal speaker, etc …). Read individual motherboard manual for clearer inserting of these signal connectors.

-Double Check on proper power connection to all hardware components

– (Optional) Install extra items such as front mounted USB, firewire and / or sound ports.

At this point We are 90% done with our DIY PC Assembly already !! Do not put back the casing covers as yet.

9) Final External Connections

-Connect Back the outer devices including items like

a) Keyboard

b) Mouse

c) Monitor

d) Printer / Scanners

e) Speakers

f) External power supply cable

10) Bring on the POWER !!

This brings us to the last stage of the PC assembly process. If you have done everything right, now is the time to sit back and savor the fruit of success.

With the casing still open, and all external peripherals connected, turn on the computer and observe for any abnormality such as fan not spinning, or beeps alarms from the PC. If so, turn off the power and spend some time checking through the connections, and also the manual for some tips on troubleshooting.

Well, if you observed no abnormality till far, and you have seen the splash screen from the motherboard, CONGRATULATIONS !! You have succeeded in building your own PC in this PC Assembly DIY guide by flashG.

3 Things to Consider When Installing a TV Outdoors Near a Pool Or Spa

With the cost of flat screen televisions decreasing, it has become more popular to put a standard TV outdoors, either in our garden, or by our pool or hot tub. However there are some considerations you should know about, before you embark on installing a TV outdoors. 

TV outdoors all the time?

If the TV is going to be removed indoors when ever threatening weather approaches, the following information will not apply to you, however if you want a solution that once installed looks after itself, read on. 

You have to consider if the display is going to be outdoors all weathers and all the time. If this is the case, the need for protection is essential from the weather and potential theft. Now let us take the weather issue, this will depend upon the area you live in and you will know better than anyone the average weather conditions for example if you need to protect the electronics from snow, rain or extreme heat. 

If for example you need to cover a temperature range from -20 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, you need an LCD or plasma TV enclosure that has the facility to heat the inside of the case to prevent the electronics failing. On the other hand if you are in an area with extreme heat, you may need to cool the inside of the TV case, in some instances LCD enclosures have been installed in areas that reach 150 degrees Fahrenheit, providing adequate protection for the electronics inside the case. 

Now there are 2 type of enclosure for televisions, the large steel units that can even withstand being shot with a .22 bullet or a lower cost high impact acrylic enclosure, these are lighter however they do offer excellent protection from the weather as well as offering some protection from the opportunist thief. 

Normally, people mount the TV case direct to a wall near their hot tub or pool, however there are pedestal stands that bolt to the floor and the TV case bolts to the back of the stand, this however does take up valuable foot space, the other option is to mount the TV and case from a ceiling mount, however you are best looking for a heavy duty mounting arm as the total weight for a TV in a protective case is in the region of 150lbs. 

Getting the video to the TV.

The easiest way to get high quality video to any LCD or plasma television is to connect the cable signal receiver to a VGA Extender, this enables high quality video to be broadcast up to 100 metre or 360 feet from one source to the screen, these units supports resolutions up to 1080p but it does depend upon the length of cable. 

These VDS units allow you to leave your cable box in your home, in a secure environment whilst you can take advantage of the technology and watch your favourite game or programme whist in the pool. 

These are available at any local electronics outlet and eliminate the demand to protect a cable receiver outdoors. 

Cables for connecting the VGA Extender to the TV.

Now you have the TV outdoors mounted in a protective case with the cable receiver in your home, now you need to use some high quality UTP cable, UTP is Unshielded Twisted Pair cable or Category 5 cable commonly used in computer networks. 

These are normally available in 300 metre drums, however if you go over the 100 metres from source to TV, the quality of the video will be effected; you can try it but don’t push it! 

Go for quality cable and this will pay off, do not think it is a trade off and buy a low quality cable and then go over the 100 metre distance, personally I would go for a mid range priced cable and try to locate the TV no more than 75 metres or 220 feet that way you should have the best image possible on your television.