Telephone Handling

A telephone communication is a two way communication process with rapport (relation of mutual understanding or trust between people).

Procedures to make a telephone call

  • Greetings
    • E.g. “Very Good Morning”
  • Identification (two way)
    • E.g. “I am ABC, Business Coordinator. Can I speak to Mr. ABC or I am requesting for an appointment with Mr. ABC”
  • Message taking
  • Obtaining Confirmation
  • Providing feedback
  • Closing the call

Procedures to receiving a telephone call

  • Greeting
    • E.g. “Good Morning, XYZ”
  • Caller identification
    • E.g. “May I know who is on speaking / line”
  • Message taking
    • E.g. “How may I help you”
  • Information giving and feedback (collect the contact details of the caller)
  • Closing the call
    • E.g. “Thanks, for your call” or “Thanks a lot for calling”

Planning telephone calls

  • Organizing the message – have supporting documents in hand.
  • Be aware of time and cost
  • Set priority for the message
  • Synthesize essential information and conclusion

Your voice on your telephone can say a lot about you and your company so here is some tips or guidance for Telephone handling:

  • Variety & Volume – A variety in the pace should be used or else it will be boring and monotonous for the listener. For example, when expressing important points please slow down. Volume can become a problem for listeners, don’t scream or don’t be so soft, be in between and make sure that other in the room are not disturbed.

  • Be optimistic about the caller and their concerns, requirements and their company. Be very polite.

  • Impact & Interest – Think about the words you use and how they can add impact – which words create pictures in the caller’s mind? This adds interest which should be audible – expressing your sincere interest in them.

  • Clarity & Confidence – Pronounce words clearly avoid voice drop at end of sentences and be confident of what you say, no “ers” & “umms”

  • Follow the track of the caller, emphasis on important words which are important. Don’t pause in between sentences. Be enthusiastic while greeting and closing the call.

  • Answer the call as quickly as possible

  • Keep all promises made – never let the caller chase you

  • Have the tools of trade near you – should be prepared always

  • Try to speak the same language the caller speaks

  • Show full interest and attention to the caller at all time

  • If you cannot give the information your caller requires, take the details and offer to call them back rather they hold on for an indefinite length of time.

  • If you have to transfer the call pass the details of the caller to that person before passing the caller through. Don’t make the caller repeat why he/she call every time when the call is passed.

  • Show charm, warmth, friendliness and courtesy

  • Place the phone receiver back softly otherwise it can bring a bad impression to customers

  • Always remember that the customers who telephone are not nuisances – they are your company’s livelihood.

  • You have to let go the tendency to evaluate, make judgments, set conditions, accept or reject any proposal or statement, the very first time and rather learn the art of being good listeners with proper understanding of the matter. If you can listen then you can communicate effectively.

Top 10 Homeopathic Remedies for Eye Problems!

Eyes are the doorway to one’s soul! Eyes reflect mind, eyes reflect psyche, and eyes reflect HEALTH! No wonder homeopathy that caters effectively the ‘mind’ of an individual has lot to offer in problems of eyes. Eye is certainly one of the most delicate organs of the body and therefore, caring for eyes has to be done by an expert homeopath. A homeopath might want to consult an ophthalmologist to rule out certain critical eye problems before proceeding for the treatment. But here one should remember that while treating homeopathically, we should not give much importance to the diagnostic name of the eye problem but its signs and symptoms that point us to the accurate remedy.

There are hoards of homeopathic remedies useful in the treatment of various eye problems. However, one must remember that for constitutional eye problems like cataract, glaucoma, recurrent blepharitis or conjunctivitis, corneal opacities, and/or recurrent styes, one must go for constitutional prescribing after carefully considering the physical, mental, and emotional characteristic of the individual; then only it is possible to impart perfect cure! But one must be acquainted with certain remedies that specifically render beautiful results in varied eye problems so that they can be used for acute prescribing as well.

Here is the list of top 10 homeopathic remedies for eye problems-

(1) Euphrasia-

– Acute catarrhal conjunctivitis

– Eyes water all the time with inclination to blink frequently

– Acrid burning eye discharge that corrodes the margins of the lids

– Corneal opacities with thick discharges that burn

– Blistery cornea

– One of the great remedies for rheumatic iritis that may be associated with partial ptosis

– Almost always associated with bland and watery coryza

– Swelling of the lids with burning, which feels better when in open air

– Worse in the evening, indoors, light, warmth

– Better open air, coffee, dark

– Must be compared with Allium cepa while dealing with allergic rhinitis associated with conjunctivitis. In Allium cepa, eye discharges are bland and coryza is acrid. 

(2) Ambrosia-

– Allergic eye problems

– Intolerable itching of lids

– Smarting and burning in eyes with watery coryza and nosebleed

– Wheezy cough almost always present with eye problems

– Compare with Sabadilla, Arundo 

(3) Ruta-

– Eye-strain headaches

– Red hot eyes with pain in eyes

– Especially associated with sewing or reading fine print

– Accommodation of vision disturbed

– Weariness in eyes with headache

– Excessive lassitude associated with eye troubles

– Bruised, pressure feeling over the eyes

– Compare with Natrum mur, Argentum nitricum

(4) Pulsatilla-

– Pulsatilla is one of the most invaluable homeopathic medicines for eye troubles.

– Bland thick greenish eye discharges call for it

– Associated with itching and burning sensation

– Recurrent styes invariably need a dose of Pulsatilla during the course

– Inflamed agglutinated eye-lids

– Sub-acute eye complaints in venous constitutions

– Sub-acute conjunctivitis associated with dyspepsia

– Veins of fundus oculi enlarged

– All complaints are worse in warm room and better when in open air

(5) Spigelia-

– Neuralgic eye pains

– Pressing pains in eyes on turning them

– Extreme photophobia

– Rheumatic ophthalmia

– Pains in and around eyes feel as if extending deep into the socket

– Eyes feel too large

– Very sensitive to touch

– Worse from touch, jar, noise

– Better by lying with head high

(6) Apis mellifica-

– Swollen, edematous lids that burn and itch

– Bright red puffy conjunctiva

– Prevents recurrence of styes

– Pain around orbits with serous exudates

– Swelling below the lower lid (upper lid- Kali carb)

– May be associated with urinary problem

– Worse heat, touch, pressure, right side

– Better cold washing, open air

(7) Merc sol-

– Syphilitic eye troubles

– Thick, red, swollen lids

– Profuse burning acrid eye discharges

– Floaters

– Eye trouble that starts after exposure to the glare of fire etc

– Iritis with thick corroding discharges

– Extremely offensive eye discharges

– Boils in and around eyes with yellow fetid pus

– Worse at night, wet damp weather, warmth

(8) Silica-

– Day-light produces sharp pains through the eyes

– Tenderness of eyes worse when closed or pressured

– Suppuration in the anterior chamber of the eye, iritis

– Confused sort of vision where letter run together while reading

– Lachrymal duct affections

– Has potential to clear corneal opacities when homeopathically indicated

– Cataract in office workers

– Worse new moon, cold

– Better warmth 

(9) Hepar sulph-

– Corneal ulcers

– Suppurative eye troubles, iritis with pus in anterior chamber

– Conjunctivitis with purulent discharges

– Red and inflamed lids and conjunctivae

– Pain in orbits

– Soreness is marked in eyeballs

– Objects appear red and enlarged

– Half-reduced field of vision

– Styes with pain and suppuration

– Worse exposure to draft of cold, touch

– Better warmth, wrapping up head 

(10) Agaricus-

– Double-vision with flickering before the eyes

– Twitching of lids and eyeballs

– Neuralgic eye pains

– Letters seem to move or swim while reading

– Agglutinated margins of lids with burning pains with red inner canthi

– Eye troubles associated with vertigo and icy cold head

– Worse open cold air 

Installing Vinyl Replacement Windows on the Second Floor

If you have a two story house, and you are going to replace the windows on both the first and second floor, there are little tricks that you can use to make the upper floor job a bit safer and easier. If the windows are replacement style frames, you install them from inside the house, so the only thing that you will do different than the first floor windows is to use an extension ladder to caulk the exterior. So, let’s talk about doing retrofit style windows on the second floor. You can usually remove the old window from inside the house, but if you have a picture window, you have to use the extension ladder to remove the stops holding the glass in place. Then, you can go inside the house and cut the glass free from the frame using a utility knife. Put a tarp on the ground below the window, to catch any glass pieces that may fall during the removal. Also, don’t forget to keep people and animals away from the area below the window.

Once you are ready to install the new window, you can do it from inside the house. Remember, when installing retrofit style frames, you install them from outside and raise them into place. Instead, carry the window upstairs. If it’s a slider, remove the screen and sliding panel. Then, using a helper, you can angle the window frame through the opening, extending the retrofit lip completely outside of the opening before pulling the window back toward you, and installing the window as if you were outside. Have your helper hold the center bar while you put a screw into the top center to hold the frame in place. You can do the entire installation from inside. The only time you will need to go on the extension ladder is when you’re ready to caulk the exterior. Make sure you put a generous amount of caulk where the top of the frame meets the stucco or exterior material. You don’t want any water getting past the new frame, otherwise it can work it’s way through the wall and down through the ceiling or the walls. You would be surprised how easily two people can install an 8′ wide by 5′ tall sliding window on the second floor if you remove the sliding panels and screens. In fact, my helper and I did one 10′ wide and 5′ high. That was the biggest one I ever did on the second floor. You can run a bead of caulk on the outside face of the old frame before installing the new frame right from inside the room.

Now, if you are installing a picture window, it’s a little tougher. You can’t remove any panels to lighten the load, and it’s tougher to get as firm a grip on the frame. But, on the positive side, picture windows aren’t usually much larger than 3′ by 5′ on the second floor. If you have a large picture window, or if you have several to install, I have access to suction cups that are used in the glass industry. You can attach them to the glass and use them as handles when extending the frame outside through the opening. Contact me on my website at How to install windows if you want to get pricing on suction cups. You can get the smaller, inexpensive models for around $40 each.

So, if you are hesitating to replace your old windows yourself because you didn’t think you could do the upstairs windows, now you know you can. Next week’s topic is going to be about replacing the rollers on your patio door. If you can’t hardly open your sliding glass door anymore, a couple of new rollers can make all the difference in the world.

Learn to Improve Golf Putting Skills Fast

One of the best ways to reduce your handicap in golf is to learn to improve your putting. The short game accounts for nearly sixty percent or more of your total score for most rounds. The best golfers spend a lot of time working on the wedge game and chipping around the greens.

Find your perfect putting style:

There are many different putting styles out there to pick from. Do not get caught up trying to find the perfect stroke because every putter is different so you need to find a style that will work for you. The key to success in putting is to maintain confidence and believe that every putt you step over will go in the hole. Golfers that struggle with the putting yips usually get caught up always changing putting styles or drastically changing their routines. This leads to always doubting yourself which will inevitably lead to loss of confidence and a poor golf game. A key mechanical tip to keep in mind is to keep your eyes over the ball as much as you can. A good exercise to help you accomplish this is to hold a golf ball to your eye level and then drop the ball and see if it hits the playing ball on the ground.

Developing a selective memory is another key component to becoming the best possible golfer you can be. It is very important to remember to forget about the bad shots, learn what you can from them and then move on to the next shot believing the ball will go in the hole. Do not dwell on the misses as this is a surefire way to lose confidence and risk getting the yips. How you think has a great impact on your confidence levels so be sure to focus on the positive aspects of your game and learn from the negative experiences. Another key point to keep in mind regarding putting is to ensure that you are always putting to make it. No matter how long the putt is you want to always focus on making the putt as this will give you the lowest margin for error. This does not mean that you have to hit the putt hard but instead think about putting to make it in such a way that the ball rolls into the hole softly as this will reduce your margin for error and cause you to make the most putts possible.

Baby Care – The Proper Environment

Baby care, for the most part, is routine and is best approached in an organized way. The key to this organization is to correctly equip and arrange the baby’s room. Bathing, changing, and feeding the baby also should follow an organized routine whenever possible. Common sense is also essential, especially concerning the safety of the child. Members of the family with illnesses should be kept out of the baby’s room, as should any type of pet.

The Proper Environment

The baby’s Room.

A newborn infant may share the parent’s bedroom for the first few months, but even if this is the case, a separate room should be planned and equipped so that everything is conveniently at hand for the main activities in the baby’s life: nursing, body hygiene, and diaper changing.

The room itself should be warm and well ventilated. A constant temperature of 68 to 72 Fahrenheit degrees (20 to 22 Celsius degrees) is advisable for any baby who weighs less than 8 pounds (3.6 Kg), but as the baby grows and puts on weight, the nighttime temperature may be allowed to drop slightly. It is important that the air in the room is not dry. If possible, place a humidifier in the room to keep the air warm and moist.

Every baby needs fresh air but should be protected from drafts, so make sure that the crib is not next to an open window when the baby is asleep. In cold weather, the room should be aired when the baby is not occupying it.

Lightning.

For the convenience of the parents, the room should be well lighted, but newborn infants are unable to adjust their eyes to a bright light. A ceiling light therefore should have a low-power bulb or a dimmer attachment on the light switch. A small table lamp is useful, particularly when placed on the dresser to illuminate the contents of the drawers.

Even a small baby becomes quickly bored by having nothing to look at. A mobile above the bassinet or crib may hold the infant’s attention, as will brightly colored pictures fixed within the baby’s field of vision.

Furniture and Equipment.

The most important piece of furniture in the baby’s room is the bed. The most suitable first bed for a newborn infant is a bassinet, straw basket, or portable crib because a tiny baby feels more secure in a fairly small space. If the baby is going to sleep in a crib, put bumper pads around the edge and wrap the baby firmly so that he or she feels secure.

The mattress must be firm and smooth and should fit the bed snugly. Never use a pillow instead of a mattress-use a foam pad at least one inch (25mm) thick, and make sure that the waterproof cover fits tightly over the mattress. If you are using a straw or cane bassinet, line the inside with material to prevent the baby from catching or scratching the fingers or face on rough edge. This also helps to prevent drafts. A baby under the age of one year should never be given a pillow for the head.

A low, comfortable chair with armrests and a straight back is another important item in the baby’s room. The chair can be used for feeding with the bottle or nursing at the breast; or the parent can sit in the chair and change the baby’s diaper on the lap instead of on a changer.

All the equipment needed during a diaper change should be within reach so that the parent does not have to leave an infant unattended on the changing surface. A shelf attached to the side of the changing table is useful for storing cream, powder, cotton, and diapers. If this is not possible, make sure that there is a working surface at the correct height next to the changing area. Overhead shelves are convenient, but can be dangerous since a jar or bottle could fall on the baby.

Place two buckets with lids for dirty diapers and clothes by the side of the changing area. A wastebasket also should be beside the changing area for used pieces of cotton.

There should be a plastic bathtub on a sturdy stand in the room and a rack on which to hang towels and a facecloth. It is more suitable to bathe a small baby in his or her room because the temperature is more easily maintained than in an adult bathroom. Even if the room is centrally heated, it may be necessary to boost the room temperature with a heater before bath time. The heater can be either of the radiator type or an electrical heater placed high on the wall.

If parents intend always to feed the baby in his or her own room, a separate low table or cart should be set aside for nursing and feeding articles.

A dresser is useful for storing sheets, blankets, towels, diapers, and clean clothing. As the baby grows out of clothes, they should be stored elsewhere to ensure that the dresser does not become overfull.

Safety.

When planning and equipping a baby’s room, safety factors should always be kept in mind. Babies quickly become mobile; it is often not until a near-accident occurs that the parents realize how active the baby is.

All the furniture in the room should be strong and stable so that a crawling infant is not able to overturn it. The windows should have safety stops on them so that they cannot be opened wide enough for the child to crawl out of. As an alternative, parents can fix bars (vertical ones) over the window. If there are electrical outlets at ground level, cover them with outlet covers (which are available at hardware or department stores) or place a piece of heavy furniture in front of them because the crawling child will soon try poking something into the plug.

Cribs should be selected carefully. Bars should be less than 2.5 inches (6.25cm) apart, so that the child cannot get stuck or choke. There must be no peeling paint. Once the crib is set up, do not tie to the bars anything in which the child might become entangled.

Never use an unguarded space heater in a baby’s room. Liquid fuel heaters are also dangerous and should not be used.

Manage The Growth Of Your Goldfish Using Green Water

Goldfish hobbyists are turning to green water due to the benefits shown on the natural ecosystem of their tanks. Green water used by the more serious goldfish keepers, can deliberately influence the evolution and expansion of their fish. Whilst a really good strategy it must be watched carefully until there is an abundance of strong green algae developed in the tank.

The Effects Of Green Water On Your Goldfish

For goldfish keepers that are trying to manage the rate at which their fish grow, one of the most powerful tools is green water. Where the tank sports substantial green water, the fish will be more tranquil and less energetic. This in turn sees the protein from their diet directed to their wen, which is the aided in the growing cycle. Should the goldfish keeper wish to control wen growth or encourage other areas of growth they simply need to dilute the algae and the fish will become more active again and the protein will then go towards the growth of body mass and size.

Warning Signs To Keep Your Eye On

If the plan is to cultivate the green algae in your tank, you should note that it will take time and trial and error to create the correct formula of green water supply. The first problem could be that the green algae may grow too quickly. This will result in the tank becoming too murky which will result in behavioural defects in the fish. An abundance of algae is best treated by controlling the amount of light received by the tank. Tanks that are constantly exposed to the light will grow algae that soon fill the entire tank. The recommended lighting as stated by the experts would be 8 – 12 hours per day for a green water tank. However some hobbyists have gained success by reducing the lighting to 5 hours a day.

If your tank does become overrun with algae then you may have no alternative but to change the water. The experts recommend that this is only necessary when the tank has become so cloudy that you are unable to see the fish swimming in it when looking from the top. Due to the speed in which the algae reproduce too high population should be offset with 90% water change. Although over populated it is important to leave a minimal amount of algae to promote the regrowth of the necessary organisms required.

Apart from the green algae there are other forms of algae that can grow under the same type of conditions but these have no benefit on the goldfish. Most commonly is the blue-green algae, this is difficult because it is not actually an algae; it is a bacteria that is represented as a blue coloured slime coating throughout your tank. It will grow on the glass, gravel, rocks or any plant life you have in the tank. The only way to rid the goldfish tank of these bacteria is thorough cleaning and water changes.

A good combination of green water and natural water is the best way to control and maintain healthy growth of your goldfish. High concentration of algae will lead to larger wen and other visible changes to your fish. By lowering the green algae in the water the fish will be more active and develop more length and body mass. Remember though, when using a green water tank you must always keep an eye out for the harmful types of algae growing and constantly control the light to the tank to regulate sudden spurts of algae growth.

Cellar Tanking – The Condensation Problem and How to Avoid it Part 2 – What Causes Condensation?

The average cellar tanking system will cost many thousands of £’s. The primary aim is to keep out ground water, but how often do we think about the internal naturally occurring atmospheric humidity? We ignore this at our peril; cellar tanking and other forms of basement waterproofing can interact with humidity and cause condensation problems… My last article on cellar tanking and condensation looked at what condensation is. Condensation occurs wherever the humidity and temperature combine to create ‘dew point’. So we need to look at those specific factors in a tanked cellar or waterproofed basement that cause temperature and humidity to come together in this way.

Temperature

Waterproof coatings or membranes are not usually very thermally efficient so they can get cold. And they are usually applied to the internal surface of the outside walls during a cellar conversion or basement waterproofing project this makes them even colder. If we put insulation in front of the waterproof membrane this insulation makes the colder still (insulation keeps heat in the room and therefore away from the membrane).

Heating patterns

If the basement or cellar is heated on an irregular basis this can give rise to periods where the temperature is too low to avoid condensation.

Humidity

Moisture vapour in the air will move in all directions, so not only is moisture vapour coming into a basement or cellar from the ground outside, it is also moving from the internal air space of the cellar or basement to the outside. An effective waterproof barrier (tanking system), designed to be effective against the ingress of ground water will also prevent the escape of internal moisture vapour. Rooms below ground are generally more difficult to ventilate due to lack of windows and doors. General living generates moisture vapour, even breathing and perspiring, also cooking, drying clothes, boiling kettles using a shower or bathroom without adequate air extraction all contribute to internal moisture vapour. This in itself is not necessarily a problem. It only becomes a problem is any part of the cellar or basement as a temperature which is equal to or below the dew point temperature and the most likely place for this (cold) dew point temperature is the waterproof barrier itself. In my own professional experience I have seen many cases of otherwise good cellar conversion and basement waterproofing projects ruined due to condensation.

In my next article I will be looking at the damage that it can do, not only to the building fabric, but also to the health of the occupants.

Meanwhile to find out more about problems with cellar tanking and how to avoid them click cellar tanking.

Padlocks – A Full Guide to the Different Types, Their Uses and Security Ratings

The different parts of a padlock

With countless different styles, sizes and applications of padlock available it may surprise you to know that the basic principles of their function and design are all pretty much the same.

Although the bodies of certain types of padlocks (some disc or combination padlocks, for example) are made from alternative materials, the majority of padlocks have a solid metal body. The solid padlock body is by far the strongest part of the padlock and, as a general rule, the larger the body the larger and more substantial the locking mechanism can be.

The U-shaped metal bar that exits and re-enters the padlock body is called the shackle or shank. Whilst the body of the padlock is relatively well protected this part of the lock is exposed and therefore most vulnerable to attack. As with increasing the size of the body, incorporating a more substantial shackle into a design a considerably more secure padlock can be produced. Whilst most padlocks use a spring-loaded shackle mechanism, certain others incorporate a manually released shackle.

Now for the business end of the padlock, the locking mechanism and key-way. Usually made up of between 3 and 7 tiny spring loaded pins, the unique key entering the padlock’s barrel causes these pins to be precisely aligned, in turn allowing the barrel to rotate, releasing the shackle.

As previously mentioned, most padlocks follow roughly the same principles of design. Having said that, certain other products do have slightly different properties. Continue reading this document explaining the different designs and merits of each.

Types of padlocks

There are countless designs of padlocks on the market and many of them can be found on this site. Each of these padlocks has unique and interesting features that set it aside from all others in terms of design, convenience and security.

  • The Closed Shackle Padlock

An increasingly common design of padlock on the market, the name ‘closed shackle’ padlock simply implies that the normally vulnerable shackle has been protected in some way. In doing so the manufacturer has made it considerably more difficult to defeat these padlocks with either bolt cutters or a saw. Crucially, many insurance companies demand the use of such closed-shackle padlocks as an absolute minimum security measure.

It is worth noting, however, that in protecting the shackle in such a way it can frequently reduce the flexibility and ‘usable clearance’ of the padlock. By ‘usable clearance’ we mean the area between the shackles that allows us to pass them through a hasp or hole, around a bar or, indeed, onto a cable. As a result it is vitally important that you check not only your own requirements but also the exact dimensions on our website prior to making your purchase.

  • The Straight Shackle Padlock

Another commonly used design is the ‘straight shackle’ padlock, otherwise referred to as shutter padlocks because of their common application for securing roller-shutter doors, something for which they are perfectly suited.

It is wrong to assume that this is their only purpose, however. Indeed, the straight shackle padlock is an incredibly versatile product having a wide variety of uses – from securing warehouse doors to shipping containers – due to their design and the levels of both security and convenience that this results in.

  • The Discus or Round Padlock

Frequently referred to in the industry as a ‘closed shackle padlock’, the term refers to the long, curved shackle that wraps securely around the entire body of the lock. This precise feature is exactly what makes the discus, circular or round shackle padlock pictured here so resistant to attacks from tools such as bolt cutters.

Otherwise known as ’round shackled’ or disc padlocks, these locks are circular and have a curved shackle that encompasses the entire body of the lock. This precise feature is exactly what makes the discus, circular or round shackle padlock pictured here so resistant to attacks from tools such as bolt cutters.

That said, whilst more conventional padlock designs incorporate a solid body, this type of lock has a circular shackle enclosed between two metal cases that combine to produce a disc, the keyway being placed directly in the middle of one disc. Due these locks’ non-spring-loaded nature, they are relatively safe from drilling or other excessive force and will most often remain firmly locked.

It is worth bearing in mind that these discus padlocks were originally intended to be used in conjunction with a staple and hasp, thereby covering the albeit small part of the shackle that would have been otherwise exposed. Clearly this makes it even more difficult to be cut, hammered, sawn or bolt cropped.

WARNING: In recent times many budget padlock manufacturers have released products that have sullied the reputation of those high-quality locks that have become known for their high levels of security. Indeed, a number of these cheaper, flimsier locks can be defeated simply by hammering on the join between the halves of the circular body. Unfortunately this has become a fact widely known amongst the criminal fraternity who use this technique regularly to smash the lock and expose the mechanism inside.

It is worth noting that this site only sells high quality locks such as the ‘ABUS Diskus’ range that are not susceptible to such attacks. This lock and those from other premium brands incorporate a disc of hardened steel within the case that stops the body of the padlock from being smashed. As a result the ‘ABUS’ range of disc padlocks sold on this site are the leading discus padlocks on sale today.

  • Long Shackle Padlocks

Simply a traditionally designed, solid bodied padlock with a longer, extended shackle, this feature adds an element of convenience by increasing the locking area and thereby the number of potential applications. This added convenience can lead to a corresponding reduction in the lock’s security rating. Quite simply, because of the exposure of the shackle the lock is more susceptible to attacks by bolts cutters and saws.

  • Combination or Coded Padlocks

We are frequently asked if combination padlocks are as secure as keyed padlocks. Quite simply the answer is no. Due to the very nature of a combination mechanism, such padlocks can never be as strong as a decent keyed equivalent. Also, whilst a relatively unlikely occurrence, a combination can always be cracked over time simply by trying out each possible combination of numbers one after another. As a rule a 3-dialled lock with 10 numbers per dial can be opened within 40 minutes with a 4-dialled lock taking somewhat longer in 4-5 hours.

As a result, insurance companies will rarely cover your property or possessions when they are protected by a combination padlock. That is not to say, however, that these locks are not a hugely useful tool in the right circumstances. One obvious advantage is seen when a number of users need access to a single place with another benefit arising from eliminating the need to carry a key around at all times.

A further convenient security factor is afforded by being able to reset and change the combination of the padlock at any time – whilst unlocked of course. That said, there have been occasions when a single malicious and yet authorised user has reset the code to suit their own ends. To combat this issue a number of manufactures have introduced a feature that prevents the combination from being reset without a key.

Weather Proof Padlocks

A completely weatherproof padlock – frequently known as the ‘marine’ padlock due to their suitability for salty and other extreme environments – is a lock that consists of 100% stainless steel and non-corrosive materials.

With many padlocks being constructed from more vulnerable materials, the obvious weak link across nearly all padlock types is the internal mechanism, a series of tiny springs and pins that, when rusted, will stop the lock from operating correctly and ultimately stop the lock from functioning at all.

That is not to say that many ‘non-marine’ padlocks are not ideally suited to outside use due to the fact that many high-quality locks have been developed using non-corroding materials. A prime example of this would be the range of ABUS padlocks sold here on this site, a series of padlocks constructed using only the best quality of marine grade materials.

  • The Choice Between Weatherproof and Security

Why would you choose a standard, more traditional padlock if a marine padlock is so very secure? Put simply, completely non-corroding materials such as those used in the manufacture of marine padlocks are softer than those used for conventional locks. As a result the shackles of these locks can be cut, sawn through or bolt cropped more easily. It is vital that you consider this factor very carefully before you choose which padlock to use.

Whilst the exposed shackle may discolour over time, the conventional type of padlock would generally be a better option for normal outdoor use. Whilst this discolouration may worry some customers it is nothing to worry about as the corrosion they see will not affect the functionality of their lock.

As with most things in life, however, there are exceptions to this rule. The ABUS Granit series padlocks found on this site are actually manufactured using fully marine-grade materials, are cataphorically coated and therefore able to cope with incredibly extreme environments for over 80 years.

All things considered, however, if you are planning on leaving your lock unattended for long periods of time, by the sea, on a boat or in areas with extreme environments we would always recommend you use a fully marine-grade padlock. To make it easy to find locks like these on our site, any padlock with the ‘raindrop’ icon is classed as fully weatherproof.

Some types of padlocks offer even greater levels of protection by including an external protective plastic jacket and a shielded keyway. You will find that this specific type of padlock is frequently marine grade or ‘weatherproof’ and present a suitable option for those wishing to guard their lock from moisture be it from precipitation or other elements.

Insurance Rated Padlocks

More and more often insurance companies are requiring policy holders to install specific types of padlocks, often ones with minimum security ratings. Whilst this will depend upon your individual insurance firm the majority of them will adhere to a similar set of basic requirements, most insisting that the insured used a ‘closed shackle’, keyed design rather than a more traditional or combination style.

Quite often, however, underwriters will insist on padlocks that are towards the higher end of the industry standard for European padlock testing – the CEN grade. Whilst Level 6 padlocks frequently cost in excess of £100, they are easily the most secure padlocks on sale in the UK today.

The grading process undertaken by CEN is intended to effectively simulate a determined attack upon the padlock. Environmental effects and manipulation by humans are not included in these tests:

  • GRADE 6 – Maximum Security
  • GRADE 5 – Extra High Security
  • GRADE 4 – High Security
  • GRADE 3 – Medium Security
  • GRADE 2 – Standard Security
  • GRADE 1 – Low Security

Frequently criticised, this grading system is arguably rather flawed due to the fact that a padlock need only fail one of the test criteria to be awarded its lowest grade. One example of how this can affect an otherwise excellent, high security padlock is where the said lock may pass all tests with flying colours but may fail at minus 40 degrees centigrade, a temperature that would never be reached in most areas of the world.

Despite its flaws it is still a much more useful system of classification than simply defining a lock as ‘closed shackle’ as required by many insurance underwriters. Nothing But Padlocks stock a number of open-shackle padlocks that are 2 levels higher in the European CEN scheme than some of our (traditionally more secure) closed-shackle locks.

If you find yourself with this problem and discover that a closed-shackle padlock just won’t work, why not consult your insurance company and they will provide you with the relevant BS EM or CEN grading.

Can A Padlocks Be Picked?

It is an inescapable fact that any padlock can be picked by a true expert. Some padlocks, however, are more easily picked than others. Reassuringly though, even the greatest locksmiths can spend hours picking the cream of the modern padlocks.

The workings of a padlock are not as simple as many would imagine. Inside is a series of spring-loaded pins of varying lengths which are aligned as the notches cut into the key move over them. It is technically possible to adjust these pins (using specialised lock picking tools) into such a position that the padlock will open.

Unfortunately, due to their smaller dimensions and the correspondingly smaller number of pins, smaller padlocks are usually easier to pick. As a general example, a 50mm lock could contact around 4-7 locking pins whilst a smaller, 30mm device would only use 3-4.

This is not to say that smaller padlocks will not be particular secure, not at all. Knowing the limitations of their locks all too well, the premium manufacturers of padlocks have come up with a number of devices that help prevent manipulation by outside elements – commonly known as criminals. Split pins with mushroom-shaped heads, guarded keyways and completely ‘pinless’ locking mechanisms are just a few of those anti-manipulation devices that now mean any high-quality padlocks, regardless of size, will be resistant to almost any thief or lock-picker.

However, when it comes to securing truly valuable items it is always worth going for the very best, something that will defeat even the most experienced lock smiths around. Both ABUS and Abloy, for example, have devised ingenious padlock lock cylinders for the padlocks that now use rotating discs instead of pins. Those very ABUS padlocks are available on this site and are referred to as the ‘Granit Plus’ range. With these discs rotating around 360 degrees, compromising such a padlock is near impossible. Furthermore, a malicious keyholder can’t simply get another key cut to further their own ends. These padlocks come with a unique code card that must be presented to an authorised locksmith before another key can be cut.

Keyed Alike and Master Key Padlocks

Whilst the majority of padlocks can only be opened by a single key it is frequently useful to have a number of padlocks that can be unlocked by a single master key.

At manufacture most padlocks are what the industry refer to as ‘Keyed Different’ meaning that the locking mechanism of each lock produced by that manufacturer is chosen at random. Usually this translates to 2 out of approximately 500 locks working with the same key. Clearly the number of duplicates will fall along with the number of locking pins used in the lock, i.e. if the padlock in question is a smaller device with fewer locking pins there will probably be more duplicates in existence. The same applies to many budget padlocks where quality control and accuracy are more in question.

  • Keyed Alike

There is also another type of padlock, only marginally more expensive than keyed-different locks, called ‘keyed alike’. Due to their minimal price difference they have become incredibly popular purchases for the customer who needs one key that can open the same ‘suite’ of padlocks. The term ‘suite’ refers to a series of identical padlocks.

“Does this compromise security?”… a commonly asked question and one that makes a lot of sense considering that more people will have access to the keys. Quite simply the answer is yes, more people will have access to the key but, for many of our customers, that price is worth paying for the added convenience.

If this does concern you it is possible to reduce this risk by choosing a lock from one of the premium manufacturers. Most of these firms will have a number of key-sets available thereby reducing the level of risk to the security conscious customer. As a padlock specialist we take steps to further mitigate the risk inherent in keyed-alike padlocks by stocking a number of these key-sets and rotating them on a regular basis.

  • Master Key

For a compromise between ‘keyed-different’ and ‘keyed-alike’ padlocks there is always a third way – ‘Master-keyed’ padlocks. In this case each lock has its own key but is part of a larger group which can all be opened by one common key, or master. As long as the master key is kept tightly locked away the whole set should be perfectly secure.

Clearly with this increase in security comes an increase in cost if only because of their added complexity. When a combination of both convenience and security is essential the master-key setup is ideal.

The New Interior Design Trends In Vogue

For those planning to have their house done up by interior decorators, here is a rundown of the latest trends in interior design.

IN

1. Macramé and fibre-art wall hangings: It gives the sculpture feel to the wall, adding texture while replacing fine art of wallpaper that often is a costly affair.

2. Window sheers: The charm of heavy drapes is on the wane. The trend is more on greater transparency and more light. And sheers are available in linen and rich wool-look. It could be sheer panels with inverted box pleats to give a masculine and tailored look to it.

3. Corduroy upholstery: The look is cool on formal chairs and it is the alternative to velvet, and is equivalent to chenille. The statement is quite gutsy with wider wale.

4. Venetian marbled-paper prints: often found on the back papers of old books, these paper prints with intricately swoopy patterns evoke the romanticism of pre-digital era. The prints are having a renaissance on everything from finely silk-screened linens to the choicest of wallpaper and gold-leafed porcelain.

5. Deco hues: Gray and grease may be going out of the picture when it comes to colour, but for many decorators, bright primary shades are still a source of dislike. The favourite palette for many could be anything muted and Deco-inspired: rose quartz, amethyst, topaz, whiskey, olive and raisin. In short, the colours that seems to be getting filtered through smoke and sunlight. There is an exception however: for many designers, there is a creeping fondness for hits of acid yellow as an attempt to jolt a mellow colour scheme.

OUT

1. Ikat prints: Originally used on prints of dresses for the grandest pashas, the Ikat pattern has turned into a patchy print on kitchen towels.

2. All-white kitchens: It is the control-freak look, with the all-white kitchen that gives it a cold, humourless and stark feel to it. However, the new white-glass appliances provide calm and cleanliness, unlike stainless steel.

3. Woodland creatures: The use of Machiavellian foxes, blinking owls, timid deer and, currently, mushrooms in artwork and textiles as decorative motifs is bordering on kitschy. Go for something that is in fact alive like potted fiddle-leaf fig trees.

4. Books reduced to décor: it is actually making a statement about not reading. Wood of books are being dust-jacketed in matching colours, and then stacked into tabletop tableaux or arrayed on shelves with their spines facing the wall.

5. The Belgian look: Passing into a catalogue cliché, there has been a strong influence with the combination of freshly manufactured “antiques” and linen upholstery with neutral tones. No doubt about, a whole room would look like a hotel lobby by having such a look.

Cleaning And Maintenance Of Your Cable Tray Installations

The cable trays are the boon for the industries which are operating with a messier wire system and are seeking for some reliable solutions. Cable trays are one of the most popular wire management systems which are safe and reliable. They are available in huge variety and serve the various purposes to the industries as per the requirement as well as the type of the trays. They are used in a large number of industries and the main aim of the trays is to provide a flexible, strong structure to the worldwide prestigious customers. They are a perfect solution for various ranges of projects, including damp saline environments, commercial sector, industrial sector, etc. for the internal as well as the external installation.

They are safe, popular and dependable. You can install the system over the heads or under the floor for space savings. The device is designed for one of the essential purposes that is the proper management of cables and wires. They prevent the damage of the cables and allow them to slide through easily. They prevent the spillage of the wires from the trays and are designed to hold more and more cables. They are fixed on the walls but are suspended from the ceiling.

Cleaning And Maintenance Of Cable Trays For Better Efficiency:-

  • Avoid Sharp Objects For Rubbing The Surface: While cleaning the tough machines and installations, we never keep the soft cleaning in mind instead we go for abrasive cleaning with some metal scrapers. However, rubbing the surface vigorously with sharp objects can damage the surface of the installation and harm the structure of the trays. Choosing some soft cloth or plastic scouring pads for such purposes are recommended.
  • Don’t Go Harsh With Chemicals: Using some harsh chemicals like chlorine which is also known as chlorides and found in hard water to make it pure. It should be avoided because it damages the protective layer of the trays which leads to further damages and increases the risk of corrosion. Also, hard water contains high mineral content which harms the trays too. If you use any cleaner that contains chlorides immediately rinse the surface of the trays to reduce its effects.
  • Use Correct Tools: Using the correct tools for handling and cleaning of the trays is as important as using them at the time of installation of the system. This helps to preserve the protective layer of the trays and also eliminates the corrosion of the material.

Removing Common Stains From Hardwood Flooring

Having hardwood flooring in your home not only adds elegance and beauty to your home but should you decide to sell it can also add value. No matter how hard you try hardwood floors can become stained or damaged due to everyday use. How you remove a stain would depend on how long it has been there and what type of stain it is. Here are some tips for removing common stains from hardwood flooring

Simple liquid

If a liquid has been spilt on the floor, the first thing to do is mop or wipe it up immediately. Make sure that you get it all up because the longer it stays on the floor the harder it will be to remove. If any remains it can seep through the sealant of the flooring, enclosing moisture within the panels, and cause a white discoloration. Once they have set in it is hard to remove them. You will then need a commercial hardwood flooring cleaner to get rid of the discolorations. Once you have gotten it all up dip a clean towel or absorbent paper towel in a little vinegar mixed with water and wipe over the spot.

Candle wax

If candle wax drips on the floor do not try immediately to wipe it up because it will just spread across the hardwood flooring. Let it harden first, which you can hurry along by applying an ice pack on the wax. Use a nonabrasive tool like a blunt, thin butter knife to scrape the wax off gently. Buff the wood with a soft cloth to get rid of all the small wax particles left after picking up the bigger pieces.

Oil stains from food

If you drop greasy foods on the floor, absorb the grease with paper towels and then wipe the hardwood flooring with a cloth that has been saturated in hydrogen peroxide and let it dry.

Dried food

Children often drop food and milk on the floor so it should be cleaned up and mopped dry immediately. If it has dried gently scrape from the outside edge toward the center of the stain with a razor blade but be careful you do not scratch the floor. Once you have the hardened stain removed you just clean the area with a dampened cloth.

Crayon marks and gum

If you find crayon marks or gum stuck to your hardwood flooring put a plastic bag of ice cubes over the stain and cover it with a towel. Let the stain harden and then you can scrape it off using a sharp blade but be careful you do no scratch the finish.

The best way to prevent stains from marring your hardwood flooring is to clean them up immediately.

The Burning Volkswagen Kombi – A Fiery Problem For A Classic Van

The air-cooled Volkswagen Kombi is an iconic vehicle that just oozes character. Kombis are practical too. You can drive them to work, carry the family around and go camping in them, and you still see them being used on a daily basis as well as being restored for occasional use. There are still plenty of young guys and girls who would like to own one as their daily driver.

Volkswagen kombis do have one disturbing fault though. They catch fire, and then it’s goodbye Kombi.

So just why do they catch fire, and what can you do to stop yours burning?

I haven’t found a definitive article in a VW magazine yet, but I’ve been driving my 1976 2 liter bay window as my daily driver for over 14 years, so I’ve taken an interest in the problem and learnt as much as I could. I’ll answer the question as well as I can.

There are actually a few different things that can cause the Kombi to burn, but they all come back to fuel getting loose in the engine bay. Kombis have a fuel tank in front of and above the engine, a hose going down from that to the fuel pump, and another hose going up through the tinware to the carbies.

Kombis are old now, and they have a lot of age related problems unless they’ve been rebuilt. Even then, it’s most likely not everything has been brought back to as new condition.

One of those old-age problems is perished and cracked fuel lines. Chances are yours have been replaced, but check them anyway. When they crack they can leak gas everywhere. One spark and your Kombi is history. Also, right below the engine are two hot heat exchangers that have the exhaust running through them. I don’t know what causes the biggest problem, heat exchangers or sparks, but it’s largely irrelevant when your van goes up in smoke.

So check those fuel lines, and if you buy a kombi don’t drive it anywhere with old and cracked fuel lines. Replace them! And don’t forget to check the hose from the fuel tank to the pump. It’s out of the way and easily overlooked.

If you’ve undone the fuel hoses a few times, make sure you haven’t cut through the hose with the edge of the hose clamp. It can happen, and then you have gas dripping down onto the engine.

The fuel hose runs through the tinware surrounding the engine. The tinware plays a very important role, it’s essential for keeping your engine cool. It’s nearly as important as the radiator on water cooled cars, so don’t discard it. But do check where the fuel line runs through the tinware. There should be a rubber grommet protecting the fuel line from the tin. Mine eventually perished, and it was one of the few parts I couldn’t buy new, so I wrapped the fuel line in a larger diameter piece of hose to stop the rubbing,

Another old-age problem is where the fuel lines go into the carbies. There is a brass inlet pipe that is part of the carburetor, and they come loose. You can imagine what happens. All of a sudden the gas that was going into the carby is spraying all over the engine. Goodbye Kombi!

I was very lucky. I was buying parts from a long-time VW mechanic, and he told me about that particular problem. I checked the inlet pipes not long after, and one of them actually pulled right out of the carby very easily. I put it back in with loctite and check both inlet pipes regularly. If yours are loose, check with your mechanic and get them fixed before you drive your van again.

My Kombi also had loose inlet and outlet pipes in the fuel pump. They got put back in with loctite, and they also get checked whenever I’m doing maintenance on the engine.

I’ve come across another problem too. There is a rubber elbow near the fuel filler. Mine perished, and I could smell gas, but couldn’t find the leak. Eventually I found fuel dripping of the bottom of the Kombi below the filler. Needles to say that got replaced before I drove it again.

I’m not saying that I’ve listed everything that can make a Kombi burn, so if a vee-dubber tells you other causes, listen to them. And keep a good eye on your kombis fuel lines. If you smell gas find out where it is coming from and fix it. It must be very depressing sitting on the side of the road watching your beloved Kombi going up in smoke.

And it does happen. You’ll read about burning Kombis in VW magazines and on forums, and I’ve heard of a couple of incidents personally. My wife was driving to work one day and up ahead was a column of smoke and the local fire crew. As she drove past she saw a kombi burning. The burnt out shell ended up in a holding yard near where I lived for a few weeks.

A couple of months later the attendant where I got gas told me about his Kombi. His wife was driving it, smelt gas and went into a gas station to get it checked. The mechanic couldn’t see any leaks so she kept driving. The Kombi burst into flames and that was the end of it.

Don’t let it happen to you.

The Five Components of Health Related Fitness

In order to properly design a fitness program we must first understand the five components of health-related fitness. these are:

1: Cardio respiratory endurance – the body’s ability to deliver oxygen and nutrients to tissues and organs and the ability to utilize them over sustained periods of time. This component is illustrated during long-distance running or swimming.

2: Muscular Strength – the ability of your muscles to exert force. This component is illustrated when lifting or moving heavy objects such as doing a weightlifting workout.

3: Muscular Endurance – the ability of your muscles to exert force or to perform repetitive movements over prolonged periods of time. This component can be tested by doing sit ups or push-ups

4: Flexibility – the ability to move our joints and muscles through their full range of motion. This can be seen when doing stretches or splits.

5: Body Composition – this refers to the ratio of lean muscle to fats in the body. A good fitness program should include each of these five components of health-related fitness. You should begin each workout session with 5 to 10 minutes of stretching and low intensity warm-ups. Cardio respiratory endurance can be improved by doing at least 20 minutes per session of aerobic activity. This can be in the form of jogging, bicycling, brisk walking, rowing, swimming or playing tennis or racquetball. Lifting weights whether free weights or strength machines will help you improve your muscular strength. Muscular endurance can be improved by doing push-ups sit ups or pull ups. Flexibility can be improved by doing 10 minutes of stretching exercises a couple times per week.

By including each of the first four components in your fitness program you will improve the fifth component by increasing the amount of lean muscle in your body and reducing the amount of fats.

Four Golf Tips On Beating Blocked Shots

Swinging aggressively isn’t a bad thing, but it can be if taken too far. Golfers who swing too aggressively often jerk the club back on their backswing, thrust forward violently from the top of the swing, or execute a host of other actions that throw off the rhythm and timing of their swings. The result: bad shots and added strokes to their scores and golf handicaps.

Block shots rank high on the list of bad shots by golfers who swing the club too aggressively. When driving, being too aggressive often forces golfers to fire their bodies too quickly on the downswing, causing the club to drop behind the players too far to the inside. From there, golfers either block their shots or hook them, depending on their release at impact.

If you tend to block shots, you may be swinging too aggressively. If you are, you must learn to curb your aggressiveness to improve your game. Once you learn to control your aggressiveness, you can use it to lower your scores and golf handicap. Below are four golf tips I recommend in my golf lessons to help eliminate blocked shots.

Tip #1: Better Posture, Better Impact

When your lower body races ahead of your upper body-the result of being too aggressive-your upper body tends to tilt away from the target. Being too fast with your upper body produces blocked shots. Since you want to “feel tall over the ball,” make sure you set your spine straight at address. Also, make sure you’re not squatting too much. If you are, flex your knees slightly. And make sure the ball isn’t too far back in your stance. Setting the ball forward helps keep the back straight during the swing.

Tip #2: Less Tilt, More Coverage

When you’re too aggressive, your upper body often tilts away from the target. If that happens, your back shoulder will drop, causing the club to drop too far under the backswing plane. Your path becomes too inside out through the swing plane. Now if your legs get too aggressive and your front hip clears too soon, your upper body falls away from the target. That’s not good. If you want to eliminate blocked shots, keep your upper body straight during the swing and your back shoulder “covering” the ball through impact. In other words, stay stacked over the ball throughout the swing.

Tip #3: Release The Head Early

Keeping your head down and straight contributes to blocked shots. Lack of head movement causes you to lose your forward tilt toward the ball. If your head stays down and straight, your hips lunge toward the ball, pulling you out of your posture and leading to poor contact. But if you turn your head slightly with the shot you’ll have better results. You’ll keep your spine straighter and get the club back in front of your body sooner. When your arms get out in front of your body, they can swing down the line better. Watch Annika Sorenstam and David Duval. They’re great examples of releasing the head early.

Tip #4: Brace Your Left Side and Release

Getting the club too far inside also results in hooks. To compensate for hooks, some golfers “hold” on through impact, so they don’t flip the clubface closed during impact. But this can cause you to pull your arms away from your body. Since you can’t release the club from that position, you end up blocking the shot. To overcome this problem, brace your front side. With a firm front side, you can swing the club down the line and release it, resulting in a straighter, truer drive.

Numerous drills exist that ingrain the four tips suggested above. For example, to learn to maintain posture, take a narrow stance and then drop your back foot away from the target line about 12 inches. Using a middle iron, hit shots from this position, which discourages your upper body from tilting back on the swing and teaches you to hit against a firm left side. Use drills like this to improve your swing.

If you block shots off the tee, it may be because you’re swinging too aggressively. Being aggressive has its advantages as long as you keep it under control. Then, you can use this aggressiveness to your advantage, as I teach in my golf instruction sessions. If you’re serious about chipping away at your golf handicap, learn to control your aggressiveness and put it to better use.

Copyright (c) 2008 Jack Moorehouse

Easy Solutions to the Most Common Garage Door Problems

Are you having trouble with your garage door? Repairing minor problems can be easy as long as you know the source or you know what the problem is. In addition, understanding how the door for garage works and knowing how to troubleshoot minor problems can help you put everything in order easily so as not compromise the safety of your home. Here are some of the more common door for garage problems and their fixes:

The door opens with the remote but will not close, what should you do?

The receiver’s signal might be weak and need replacing, or there is a problem with the power source. Sometimes, all you need to do is to replace the batteries so be sure to check the batteries first. If the batteries are okay, slowly move away from the receiver and press the remote control at distance intervals. You might need to replace the receiver if you are unable to control your door when you distance from it. Check the sensors too. Sometimes, when the infrared sensors malfunction, one of the sensor lights is blinking. Check for anything that might obstruct the sensor beam. It may need re-alignment or the photo lens need some cleaning if the trouble is originating from the beams.

You close the garage door. Suddenly it stops, reverses, and goes back up. What could be wrong?

There are various assumptions for this problem: look for signs of wear and tear on the springs, like uneven gaps between coils, broken spring, or excessive wear. Depending on the type of door for garage you have, the extension pulleys might need replacement. Alternatively, the roller bearings might need some lubricant. Double-check the sensors again if they are blinking. Clean the door’s track and ensure that it is properly aligned; otherwise, the wheels might be causing the reverse. Loosen the screws that hold the track and carefully adjust it. Then, tighten the screws back up and see if it happens again. If this does not work, it may need to be replaced.

Your garage door closes at once after hitting the floor, is there a problem?

If your door for garage is having problem in opening and closing properly, you should check on the limit switch if it needs adjusting or moving. However, be careful when doing this one yourself as it requires basic mechanical skills and use of the correct tools. If you are not confident with your skills, then it is suggested that you hire a qualified professional to fix this problem for you.

Garage door gets stuck, should you call for help?

This one is another clear issue of obstruction on your door’s path. Again, look at the track that raises and lowers your door for garage. Is there a foreign body in the way? If there is, remove it and try again. If removing the jam does not do the trick, you might have a few chains that need lubricating.

If none of the solutions provided worked, then it is time to ask help from a qualified technician preferably from a reputable company so that you are assured of their quality and effective service. Although this option will cost you more compared to just doing it yourself, do not risk it or you might end up adding more damage to your electric garage door.