Pressure Washing Heavy Equipment

One of the best ways to make money in the pressure washer business is to power wash heavy equipment. It is not necessarily easy work and you will get quite greasy but it is steady work and there is lots of it. You will need to know the different types of equipment and the issues which are of concern to preventative maintenance technicians, operators and owners.

Scrapers

The average scraper costs over $250,000. With these monsters, excavation companies can literally move mountains. The incredible size of scrapers and power it takes to propel it self, plus all of the dirt these machines move, add up to extremely dirty engine compartments. A small oil leak and the dust clings to the grease, clogging radiator flanges, and causing fire hazards and cooling problems.

Scrapers are probably one of the hardest pieces of equipment to clean. Like bulldozers and turret-mounted trackhoes, they are difficult to climb on. Their massive size and the time to clean them appear to be an impossible task, but give yourself 3 – 4 hours and you will have it so clean you can eat off of it. Give yourself 10 hours and it’s ready for fresh paint.

Realize that scrapers collect a lot of grease and oily dirt in the center where all the hydraulics come together. This occurs due to hydraulic leaks or an overzealous mechanic with a heavy hand on the grease gun. Just get in there and blast it all over everything. You must remove it by conventional methods first.

Excavators

The average excavator sells for about $180,000. Although it’s concept is relatively simple, it is important to clean it thoroughly. Remove all exterior panels, rotate turret 90°, and extend arm forward as far as possible. This way, you can clean the arm and all the hydraulic fitting surrounding it. The cab must be carefully rinsed out and the body is cleaned bottom to top and from inside to out side and then rinsed the other way. When it is completely cleaned, all the panels are replaced and then you soap it, and rinse it again and detail the cab. It’s about a three to four and a half hour job on a large size excavator with cabin.

Bulldozers

Bulldozers are some of the hardest worked equipment in excavation. You can clean everything from huge D-10 dozers down to an old 1960 John Deere Museum piece. Many bulldozer owners have many pieces of equipment, one we recently worked for owns 136 other pieces of serious heavy equipment used in road construction, forest cleaning and grading of future housing tracks. Most larger excavation companies have numerous contracts for flood control, hurricane demolition and land clearing for five states, so you need to do good work because the referrals are endless and you will need to buy more equipment and hire more steam cleaning pressure washer employees for your company.

A small dozer, such as a D-4, can take an hour to and hour and a half to three hours to clean, including the cab. A D-10 or larger may take as long as three hours and if dirty up to seven. This service includes complete cleaning of the triple radiators with steam and 1500 PSI with 6 gpm, so as to not bend the radiator flanges. We recommend that you use a dual tip system with 2 15° angle tips.

A motor on a D-10, if it overheats, can cause permanent damage. New engines go for about $55,000.00. You must take our job seriously and realize that you must help the owner maintain their equipment equipment. Down time is as much a killer in the excavation business as it is in the power washing business. By keeping the heavy equipment cleaned, it is easy to detect hydraulic and oil leaks earlier so they can fixed before permanent damage occurs. Your ability to help the owners maintain such equipment is a huge factor in their success.

By setting up a preventative cleaning schedule and working around any union labor, you will be virtually invisible, environmentally friendly, and extremely cost effective. Not to mention a very valuable resource for their team. Think about cleaning heavy equipment and expanding your pressure washer business today.

Bulldozers Trivia: 5 Interesting Facts That You Need To Know

Bulldozers are tractor-like heavy-duty vehicles that are attached with a wide blade system on the front and an optional ripper at the back. They are mainly used for fine grading, ground leveling, and shoving of large soil or snow piles. Bulldozers are widely used in many industrial applications, such as in landfills, construction, quarrying, and mining.

The blade and ripper are basically the main functional attachments of bulldozers. The ripper is used to loosen the soil and break down rocks embedded in the ground. A bulldozer blade, however, make use of three types of blades – S-blade, U-blade, and S-U blade – for fine grading, carrying and pushing large earth piles.

When it comes to bulldozer vehicles, the Caterpillar Company is undeniably one of the best manufacturers on the market. This company is highly respected for producing top-of-the-line bulldozers that feature great maneuverability, versatility, ergonomic designs, and powerful net horsepower. They have about 300 machines under their belt that includes their caterpillar crawler loader, caterpillar loader wheel, and caterpillar track loader. Up until now, the caterpillar d9 bulldozer is still their most famous model.

Have you ever heard of the Oswalt bulldozer? No, it’s not another brand for a bulldozer. It’s actually the term used to refer to the Caterpillar D6N XL bulldozer that Roy Oswalt of the Houston Astros received when their team won over the St. Louis Cardinals. As promised, he received this $200,000 bulldozer as his victory prize.

Lo Chiamavano Bulldozer (They Called Him Bulldozer) doesn’t involve any actual bulldozer in the movie. It’s actually an Italian movie about a former football athlete who lost his job and end up taking the role of coach for a group of street people in order to help them win against the local army base. With his large and brawny appearance, it’s no wonder he’s compared to a bulldozer.

June 4, 2004 sparks an unpleasant memory for the people of Granby, Colorado. The Granby Colorado bulldozer, which is a Komatsu D335A, was used by Marvin John Heemeyer, who was mad over a zoning dispute, to destroy every structure in Granby. Fortunately, there were no reported casualties. Clearly, a bulldozer can be a weapon of mass destruction when it falls under the wrong hands.

You might be wondering what the world’s largest bulldozer is. For most people, they consider the Komatsu D575A-3SD as the biggest bulldozer ever built. It measures 24 ft. wide, 41 ft. long and 16 ft. tall. Its bulldozer blade, which measures around 90 cubic yard, is tremendously huge and is powerful enough to push 480,000 pounds of earth pile.

There are different ways to acquire a bulldozer for your company or even for your own personal use. You can buy either a new or used unit, or you could also choose to rent. Before you buy one, it’s important that you determine your company’s paying capabilities and find a reputable dealer. Before choosing any brand of bulldozers, be sure that the parts and service repair are accessible.

How to Mig Using Spray Transfer – Mig Welding Settings for Spray and Short Circuit

Interested in learning how to mig using spray transfer? Maybe you are not even sure what spray transfer is. Don’t worry. I am about to explain how to mig with spray using down and dirty plain talk.

Spray transfer is the kind of mig welding done in heavy production environments. Like for building railroad box cars, heavy earth moving equipment, etc…

The reason it is called “spray transfer” is because that is how the molten metal is transferred from the arc to the puddle. Fine droplets of molten metal spray into the puddle and that is what makes the humming sound that is so distinct.

Spray transfer mig welding requires a different shielding gas than what is normally used for short circuit mig welding, ( I will explain short circuit mig later) gas mixtures of 90/10 argon/co2, 95/5 argon/co2, and 98/2 argon/o2 are used for spray transfer mig along with much higher voltage settings.

For.035″ ER70s6 wire ( like Lincoln L56) a typical setting for welding 1/4″ (.250″ or 6mm) steel would be around 25 volts and 350 ipm or inches per minute of wire speed.

So what is meant by short circuit mig welding?

The term “short circuit” means the wire actually touches the weld puddle. It short circuits while melting into the puddle and all the while is heating up until it finally blows like a fuse. When that happens it creates the arc that is what makes the heat. This arcing and short circuiting happens so many times in just one second that the arc sounds like bacon sizzling in a pan.

Short circuit mig uses much lower voltage than spray transfer but is much more versatile for welding thinner metal and for welding in all positions.

So for general fabrication, short circuit mig is the way to go because general fabrication requires welding in all positions as well as all thicknesses of steel… all the way from thin sheet metal thickness, up the 1/2″ thick and even thicker.

A good tip for you:

If you want to utilize spray transfer in your shop but don’t want a separate gas mixture, get a cylinder of 85/15 argon/co2. This mixture works well for both so if you have a mig welding machine big enough to handle the high welding currents used with spray mig, all you will need to do is adjust the voltage and wire speed and you will be spraying like a champ.

6 things to remember when learning how to mig with spray transfer:

  1. push the puddle
  2. only weld flat and horizontal
  3. stickout will be longer than with short circuit
  4. .045″ wire is probably better than.035″ for most spray applications
  5. you need a heavy duty mig machine with high duty cycle to spray mig in production
  6. use an argon mix with at least 85 % argon

How to Build a Cobblestone House

He huffed and he puffed and he blew the house down – certainly not if the house was built with cobblestones. Building cobblestone houses was a folk art that flourished in upstate New York from 1825 until the Civil War in 1860. Many of the 700+ cobblestone homes that were built survive today, a testament to their fine craftsmanship.

To build your cobblestone house you’ll need 5 main components: cobblestones, soft lime mortar, wood for windows and doors, cut stone blocks for quoins, lintels and sills, and lots of cheap labor. Lets take them one at a time – assuming the cheap labor is you, your family, friends, relatives and anyone else you can convince to do manual labor for $1.00 to $1.50 per day.

The first step is to gather the cobblestones. This may take several years. Cobblestones are small fist-sized stones deposited by the glaciers that swept from the north millennia ago. Rough-shaped ones can be gathered from the farm fields or rounded, lake-washed ones can be gathered along the shore of Lake Ontario. You’ll need over 14,000 cobblestones, so get cracking. As the manly work of stone gathering progresses, the women and children can be kept busy sorting the stones by size and color. You’ll want to use the finest, smoothest, similar-sized stones on the front of your house, and save the rougher, odd-sized ones for the back, sides and interior of the walls.

While this is progressing, you better start preparing the soft lime mortar. Don’t skimp and use Portland cement. It dries too fast and will pop the cobbles out as it dries. Soft lime mortar is made of lime, sand and water. Find limestone (calcium carbonate) or dolomite (magnesium carbonate) and break it into pieces. Burn it within heaps of logs for 2 to 3 days to create quicklime. Add water to the quicklime to create a hydrated lime sludge.

Mix in 5 to 9 bushels of sand to 1 bushel of lime sludge. Age the mortar in a ground pit covered by sand or cow manure for up to a year.

Fell a bunch of trees. They’ll need to be hand-hewn to build the doors and windows – each custom fitted to a specific opening. Also, find a quarry where you can get limestone or sandstone blocks for the corners of your building (quoins) and as structural support over the doors and windows (lintels) and under the windows (sils).

Now the fun begins. Start by laying the stones in walls 18 to 20-inches-thick. Build the wall with rubble stone, faced by cobbles. Use elongated or triangular shaped stones to tie the cobbles to the rubble wall. Use the soft lime mortar as your glue, getting fancy with straight ridges between the horizontal and vertical rows of cobbles. Build about 3 rows (or courses) per day so the mortar has time to slowly begin setting. It will take 35 years for the mortar to fully harden. Lay in the cut-stone blocks at the corners to create quoins. To finish the inside, apply horsehair plaster to the stone.

Once the walls are above reach, you’ll have to build scaffolding by burying poles in the ground 6 to 8 feet from the wall and tying cross members from the wall to the poles with hickory witches. Then lay planks on the cross members to provide a building platform. As the walls rise, you’ll have to repeatedly raise the height of the scaffolding. Attach a crane and tackles to the highest pole to winch up buckets of cobblestones and mortar.

Hand build your windows and doors to fit each opening and hand-hew trusses for your roof. Winter is a good time to do much of your carpentry work. Depending on how many workers you have and their skill level, you may finish in a year. More likely, the building process will take about 3 years.

When you’re done, you’ll have a fine home that will stand for centuries. Go see for yourself. A new guidebook called “Cobblestone Quest – Road Tours of New York’s Historic Buildings” (Footprint Press, http://www.footprintpress.com, 1-800-431-1579) offers 17 self-guided car or bicycle tours for viewing the diversity of cobblestone buildings clustered within a 65-mile radius of Rochester, NY, and no where else in the world.

“Cobblestone Quest – Road Tours of New York’s Historic Buildings”

By Rich & Sue Freeman

17 self-guided car or bicycle tours for learning the history and observing the diversity of unique cobblestone buildings in Western New York State.

http://www.footprintpress.com/Cobblestone/CobblestonePreview.htm

208 pages, 20 maps, 85 photos, indexed, paperback, 10 X 7 inches

Price: $19.95, ISBN# 1930480199

Footprint Press, Inc., http://www.footprintpress.com

###

Photos available – email sue@footprrintpress.com or call 585-421-9383.

Career Tip: Work to Put Yourself Out of Your Job

OK. I admit that the title might be a bit confusing – why the heck would you want to put yourself out of a job? What kind of “career tip” is that? In fact, it is one I believe strongly in, and when I look back over my own career I realize that this was pretty much my strategy throughout my whole working life in the corporate world… let me explain…

The way I am naturally wired, I like a lot of change, I like to solve real problems, and I like new challenges. In fact, the more difficult and complex the task, the more I gravitate towards it. In my early days – because I didn’t know any better – my hand always shot up when the managers were looking for someone to take on some new “ugly” project…while others counseled me to “keep my head down” as these projects might turn into CLM (career limiting moves), in my youthful exuberance I ignored the prevailing wisdom and jumped at the chance to learn something new and tackle some new, gnarly project.

What would invariably happen is that I’d jump in with both feet, immerse myself in the problem, start to pull together a big-picture understanding of the issues, and cobble together a strategy for tackling the issue. I learned that clean, clear, no-BS lines of communications were critical, as was setting and managing expectations, and adopting, measuring, and reporting on key improvement metrics. As things started to improve and we could start to see the critical temperature of the project go down a bit, I’d start to think through what the “steady state” solution needed to look like – you know, the one that didn’t involve me. Why? Well, because frankly I knew that I would eventually get bored and would need some new challenge to take on. I started to realize that I was a builder and a fixer, but I wasn’t a “maintainer”. As time moved on, I would start to position the project for transfer into an existing group with an existing management structure. Of course I would only “pull the trigger” on this once the company management was satisfied that the project objectives had been met and the new manager/group was receptive and ready for the addition of new responsibilities.

I did this over and over in my career, and when I look back I realize that most of my roles had a 12 to 18 month time frame to them, and that in each case I worked to put myself out of my job, so I could take on a new challenge. Now at the time I don’t think I realized that this was a very attractive feature to my corporate managers; I did it because it worked best for me, and allowed me what I wanted – the chance to fix and build things, and lots of variety and challenges.

What I realize now is what is very attractive about this from a company performance perspective – with each project I took on they were getting someone keen to jump in and fix/build a major capability in the company, they were getting the integration of that feature back into an existing function of the company (typically reducing overall operational cost by eliminating unnecessary management), and they were getting a fresh “problem solver” ready for redeployment on another critical problem area. What’s not to like about this, if it was your own company?

I was operating this way against the backdrop of the high technology industry in the 80′s and 90′s, when change levels were significant and generally companies were in high growth (or high shrinkage!) mode. Of course, with new technologies and globalizing trends, the backdrop today in most industries is one of even more dramatic change, and companies need even greater agility and flexibility in their workforce.

So, sit down today and think about ways that you could “put yourself out your job”. The good news is that if you are the first to think about it and push to make it happen, it could go a long way towards improving your overall job security.

Replace Your RipStik Wheels – The Easy Way!

The RipStik is a popular caster-board created by the “Razor” company (known for their successful Razor Scooter.) Two separate small platforms are conjoined by a bar which rotates using a heavy duty spring. Each platform or “deck” hosts a rotating wheel identical to a roller blade wheel.

The construction of the board allows a person to propel themselves using a twisting motion of the body and legs to move the two decks and wheels. The feeling of riding a caster board has been attributed to being like riding a snowboard or surfboard.

Repairing a standard RipStik wheel is a simple process which is not unlike replacing a roller blade or skateboard wheel.

To begin you will need a few things. You will need a pair of needle drivers (or similar) which will act as a crowbar to remove the bearing from the wheel, a new roller 76mm blade wheel (which are the same as RipStik Wheels), or two, if your going to be replacing the front and back wheel. You will also need two alan wrenches (also know has alan keys) 3/15th in size.

First of all, you will need to remove the wheel out from the RipStik truck. Place one alan key on the right side of the wheel, inside the bolt, the other on the left hand side of the bolt. Now, twist one alan key anti-clockwise to un-screw the bolt while holding the other side to keep it from twisting. Continue rotating the alan key until you have completely un-screwed the bolt.

Once the wheels is out your going to take the needle drivers and pry out the bearing away from the inside of the wheel. Once the two bearings are out you will be able to place the bearings inside the new RipStik wheel. Put the bearings in the middle part of the wheel (taking care it does not fall over while it is inside the wheel) and press in the bearing.

Once you have both bearings in the new wheel, take your wheel and place it in the truck. Now place your bolt in through the truck, the wheel and the bearing. Tighten the bolts until they are very firm to make sure they are secure. Be careful not to over tighten your bolt as this could cause your bearings to seize. Once you have got your RipStik Wheels tightened you’ll be good to go and you will have a new RipStik Wheel to race along with.

What Are The Properties And Benefits Of Installing Bolt Protection Caps?

The bolt protection caps are the protective device which is installed on the bolts and nuts of the flange joints, pipeline & valve joints to provide them protection from the environmental harms, corrosion, excess buildup, oil, dirt, dust and much more. It acts as a protective seal which protects the various fasteners from all the problems. The caps are made with various material and come in different sizes to provide the best protection. They seal the gap and cover the exposed part of the bolts while protecting them from rust and dust. They are used to seal the high tensile fasteners to protect them

They are made with high-quality material to withstand heat process, harmful chemicals, oils, etc. It also protects the bolts from the harmful effects of chemicals and heat processing. Due to its applicability, it is widely used in chemical lines, pharmaceuticals, offshore processing, automobiles, etc.

Properties Of The Bolt Protection Caps –

  • It seals the bolts of any material perfectly.
  • It is highly electric resistant.
  • They also resist heat and chemicals.
  • It protects the bolts from rust, dust, dirt and oil.
  • They are easy to use and can be applied with the hand pressure.
  • They are easily removable and reusable.
  • It also protects the bolts from loosening all over again.
  • They are available in the market in various sizes, materials, color and shapes to fit the need of your industry. They are best used at the joints of the pipelines, valves or flanges, etc. It is a unique approach for protecting the bolts from various problems like corrosion, dust, heat, etc.

Benefits Of Installing Bolt Protection Caps At The Flange Joints –

  • They provide excellent protection against various problems of rust.
  • They are used to avoid the excess buildup which eases the process of bolting and unbolting of nuts anytime.
  • They are used to keep the bolts and nuts new like before.
  • They are excellent chemical resistant and used widely in the chemical and pharmaceutical units.
  • They do not let the moisture, air, water inside which are the main causes of the corrosion.
  • The bolt protectors block the way and create a seal for providing protection from sand, chemicals, salt spray, and other external factors.
  • They are affordable, light, reusable and easily removable after the use.
  • The product is designed with the view of protecting the ends of bolts and nuts from the harmful effects of corrosion, heat, and chemicals.

Differences Between Batch and Continuous Concrete Mixers

What is a mixer? Well, a mixer is any machine used for mixing various ingredients. In general they are of two types; continuous and batch mixers. In continuous concrete mixers, loading of contents, mixing and unloading is a continuous process and goes on for an indefinite period of time. Where as in batch concrete mixers, loading, mixing and unloading can be done only for a definite quantity and for a definite period of time.

However the principle behind the mixing process remains the same for both continuous and batch mixers and it is more or less like a long-screw. In other words mixing of the ingredients is done by means of blades or paddles which are mounted on revolving shafts. Based on the structure, concrete mixers are broadly classified into three types:

1. Gravity

2. Rotatory

3. Paddle

However, when it comes to purchasing or renting a concrete mixer, performance and requirement will be taken into consideration. For instance, if you are looking for a mixer which should be operated for an indefinite period of time for mixing huge quantities then the continuous mixer is the best option. In case if the mixing quantity if less or for a small period of time then batch mixer will serve the purpose.

To better understand the differences between a batch and continuous mixer let us compare D-10 batch and D-25 continuous mixer. Both D-10 and D-25 can mix all types of pre-blended mortar products but D-10 can mix products up to 2.25 CuFt batches where as D-25 can mix products in any amount.

Similarly capacity of the D-10 batch mixer is 4.5CuFt whereas the capacity of D-25 is up to 80 Cu Ft per hour. Dimensions of D-10 batch mixer are 45″H x 36″L x 29″W and that of D-25 are 74″ x 30″ x 47″. So, the major differences between D-10 and D-25 mixers are only in terms of capacity, dimensions and the operational hours. Apart from that both D-10 and D-25 share common advantages such as:

1. Variable pump output

2. User friendly

3. Can be operated via remote

4. Compact and easy-to-use

5. Almost maintenance free due to incorporation of high quality components

6. Versatile applications etc.

So, the choice of concrete mixer depends on your business requirements. If you have big projects on hand, then opt for continuous mixer whereas if you are looking for a small project with minimal mixing operation then opt for batch mixer.

What Does a Concrete Contractor Do?

A concrete contractor is a specifically trained and experienced individual or team that is able to manage concrete in its various stages from an unmixed combination to the hard finished product that is produced. A qualified Concrete Contractor can design intricate plans with expert industry knowledge and experience, allowing homeowners to create their own perfect custom products for renovations in their own homes today.

The contractor will oversee delivery and ensure the concrete is poured correctly. The product will then need to be worked with by an expert to produce a leveled and smooth surface that will be able to cure properly. Ensuring this process is completed accurately is one of the key procedures that need to be handled carefully and diligently by the professional involved.

All great contractors can custom design features for their clients using their knowledge, skill and different techniques to ensure the best possible results with excellent customer satisfaction. Uniquely designed plans will be functional and structurally sound with patterns or color added to suit a customer’s project idea.

An experienced contractor like many of the large companies in the industry will be able to give a customer a helpful insight into their job progress and what to expect in the outcome of the finished project through their many years’ experience and the quality of previous work completed. They know how to stain and add creative textures and colors to enhance each project for every customer.

Concrete specialists can complete any task quickly and efficiently using their expertise and attention to detail. Using specialist tools to fill the entire area requested whether it is a large business complex or small residential home, whilst continuing to deliver the highest quality service and application to the client.

Homeowners can enjoy planning and creating their own ideas for driveways, patios, decorative items, buildings and many other constructional projects around the home that a contractor will help ensure the most ideal plan for both parties. Customers will be quoted a reasonable pricing frame with minimal production time which will all be organized for the most efficient and effective method available.

Hiring a professional to take care of all structural additions to any home or commercial building is vital to achieving good results. The complexity of the project and the understanding of the many techniques involved are important to ensure problems and safety issues do not arise. With all the specialist equipment available to handle all small and large jobs; specialists with years of valuable experience can be located in every area of the country.

Delivering the best options, quality and pricing to suit everyone’s needs; a professionally trained Concrete Contractor will be able to provide the highest quality completed projects with top structural standards and ongoing customer support during and after the work is finished. A concrete contractor will ensure the expectations of a client are met at all times throughout the process of any construction with the most effective, reliable and reputable service available in the market today.

Fixing Your 2006-2009 Ford Explorer Radiator Problems

Some 2006-2009 Ford Explorers are experiencing failure in their radiators. This article will share some of the things that you can do to prevent this failure from occurring, and get you back on the road if your radiator does fail.

While not a difficult repair, replacing a radiator does have significant cost associated with it. Wholesale cost from Ford on a radiator for a 2006-2009 Explorer runs as high as $470 for the part alone, and labor costs can take replacing the unit much, much higher.

It is thus prudent to take steps to avoid replacing the unit is possible. Regular coolant flushes are your best ally in keeping your Explorer Radiator in tip top shape. I personally do a complete machine flush of my coolant right before each winter. This not only keeps all my cooling lines and the interior of my radiator as clean as possible, but gives me a good time to check my coolant to make sure it can handle a hard freeze. Use a standard anti-freeze tester that you can buy at any local auto parts store to periodically check the coolant to make sure it can handle hard freezes in your area. If you think the temperature will fall to 20 below, make sure you are rated 20 degrees lower than that – handle 40 below! The alternative is a cracked radiator, or possibly even a cracked engine block.

One of the most common problems with 2006, 2007, 2008, and 2009 Ford Explorer radiators is not with the radiators themselves. It is, rather, with the starter. The wiring leading to and from the starter corrodes. When this happens, there is, of course, electricity introduced into the frame of the vehicle. Electrolysis can cause coolant to eat through a radiator faster than you can blink an eye.

Ford has a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) out stating that anytime you replace a radiator on one of these vehicles, you should check for electrolysis in the cooling system. According to Ford, you should not ground the heater core in a 2006-2009 Ford Explorer. Rather, you should check for electrolysis. You check for electrolysis by disconnecting the battery cables, making sure they are not touching each other or the car, putting the negative DC voltmeter probe on the engine ground and the the positive probe in the coolant and checking to see if you get more than.2 Volts in the coolant. Ford says.4 in the TSB, but that is too much for me!

If you are experiencing electrolysis in the early stages, and use a voltmeter to check all grounds. This is long and tedious, but if it isn’t done, you’ll have the same problem again. No companies will honor a warranty on a radiator that has been subjected to electrolysis. Once you have repaired issues causing improper grounding, flush all coolant.

If your radiator is beyond hope (cracked tank, leaky core), you will need to purchase a new one. There is no need to purchase an OEM Ford Explorer Radiator, as aftermarket radiators can be found with better warranties for much less money. Silla is a leading brand and has an excellent radiator available for this application. When you get it in, again, check for electrolysis!

Manufactured Roof Trusses Vs Conventional Roof Framing

Manufactured roof trusses are used in nearly 80 percent of all new homes constructed in America. The trusses are designed by structural engineers to ensure they meet roof load and building code requirements using a minimal amount of lumber, as opposed to conventional roof framing where choosing the size of rafters is often left to the builder. The result is often wasted lumber due to over building, if a 2 X 8 is good then a 2 X 10 would surely be better!

Ask anyone framing new homes today which is better and the answer will most certainly be trusses. Modern truss manufacturers can design and build trusses for the most complex roof and ceiling plans available in custom built homes.

Disadvantages of Conventional Roof Framing

  1. Conventional roof framing requires the use of larger framing members to form the roof plane as well as the ceiling resulting in higher labor costs.
  2. Each individual piece of the roof and ceiling must be figured out, marked, cut to length, then placed and nailed in the correct position.
  3. Requires the use of interior load bearing walls.
  4. May take several days to construct leaving the new home exposed to the elements for a longer period of time, increasing the chance for moisture damage.
  5. Highly experienced carpenters must be used further increasing labor costs.

Advantages of Stick Framing

  1. Building site space restrictions can be overcome with the use of stick framing roofs.
  2. Most truss builders can’t build an interchange hip, rolling hip, or turret style roof.
  3. All framing lumber can be purchased locally and delivered the next day.

Disadvantages of Manufactured Roof Trusses

  1. Trusses must be ordered two to six weeks in advance.
  2. Uplift of improperly installed trusses results in drywall cracks and nail pops at the intersection of the ceiling and interior walls.

Advantages of Trusses

  1. Carpenters with less experience can set trusses, lowering labor costs.
  2. Fewer interior load bearing walls are needed due to the trusses longer free span.
  3. Shorter lengths of two by four stock are used to build trusses reducing material prices.
  4. Structural engineers design and certify roof trusses.
  5. Trusses can usually be set in one day, the interior of the home is exposed to the weather for a minimal amount of time.

Types of Roof Trusses

  1. Common
  2. Raised Heel
  3. Hip
  4. Gambrel
  5. Bowstring
  6. Scissor
  7. Room in Attic
  8. Girder
  9. Polynesian
  10. Multiple Piece

Ceiling Styles

  1. Flat
  2. Cathedral
  3. Vaulted
  4. Studio Vault
  5. Tray
  6. Coffer
  7. Barrel
  8. Inverted

These lists of roof truss type and ceiling styles is by no means exhaustive, consult with your builder and local truss manufacturer for more complete details.

Why Choose a Pier and Beam Foundation?

Building a home is an exciting venture. Homeowners get to choose wall coverings, flooring materials, up-to-date appliances, room size variances, and windows and doors. But, what most homeowners do not realize is that building a home starts from the ground up, from the foundation.

The most important step to building a new home is choosing the most efficient and safe foundation for your property location. Researching foundation bases is essential in securing the structure of your new home. Some contractors are knowledgeable about foundations and will help you choose which is best for your home. But, there are many who will pour a foundation of their choosing without discussing the choice with you, the homeowner.

Two foundation choices that a new homeowner should be aware of are slab-on-grade foundations and pier and beam foundations. The two are quite different when it comes to construction, cost, and longevity.

Slab-on-grade foundations are constructed with reinforced concrete and are usually shallow, quickly built, and inexpensive. For a builder that doesn’t have to live in the homes that he builds, slab foundations are a dream. Slab foundations are used with homes that do not have basements. A major disadvantage to slab-on-grade foundations is that they are not resistant to seasonal movement changes and moisture disbursement due to root growth. In other words, slab foundations are not a long-term option for homes in North Texas. Another disadvantage is that generally all piping is placed under the slab foundation causing a very costly procedure should a water pipe burst.

Pier and beam foundations, on the other hand, rate a few steps above a slab-on-grade foundation. Pier and beam foundations incorporate a crawl space (usually at least 18 inches) beneath the home and footings filled with concrete to support the slab. This type of foundation is not considered a time saver, but it is safer and more convenient. The crawl space allows access to heating and plumbing utilities without having to break through the concrete slab. The piers mean foundations are less susceptible to damage due to ground shifting, a problem many North Texas homes with slab foundations experience. If extreme ground shifting does occur, the foundation is easily adjusted, a process that is much less expensive than slab foundation repairs, a process most homes in North Texas will have to undergo.

Since pier and beam foundations leave homeowners walking on a suspended wood platform, they are much easier on the body’s joints. Pier and beam foundations are preferred by back pain suffers over slab foundations.

Pier and beam foundations are generally used for homes built in the Northern part of the country because the climate consists of the freeze and thaw conditions. This condition requires that the foundation be built deeply in to the ground. The safety feature here is that deep foundations are very rarely affected by climate changes. But, the shifting grounds of North Texas make pier and beam foundations the best, longest-lasting choice for foundations in the area.

Monster Constructors is professionally known for laying pier and beam foundations in the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex. They will test the ground on which the home is to be built to decipher the best foundation for that particular area.

Ways of Removing Super Glue

It is said that every strong thing has a weak point. The trick lies in finding out what it is. Removing super glue is very easy. The adhesive’s weakness is acetone which is found in nail polish remover. Acetone dissolves the glue allowing its removal. A small amount may be applied if the glue pours on your skin. Wash with soap and water then apply lotion. Ensure that you use branded acetone.

The glue can also be removed from fabrics using acetone and an old toothbrush. The chemical can be reapplied for old stains. For better results, work from the outside of the fabric. The adhesive can also be removed from floors, tables, glass etc. The object is then rinsed with plenty of water. Removing super glue from lips, eyelids and eyes uses a different method. Rinse the area with plenty of warm water. Do not use acetone. It may take 2-3 days to fully remove the glue. Try not to open your eyes until the glue is completely removed.

Other chemicals can help for very tough stains. Some of these include: white spirit or ethanol. Do not scratch the glue with razor blades. The adhesive can be removed from glass using netromethane. Acetone damages lenses and glass. The product is available in specialized shops. Removing super glue from surfaces can be quiet cheap. A simple home remedy can do.

Pour lemon drops and wait a while. Add common salt to the same place. Peel off the adhesive from the surface. Acetone should not be used on painted surfaces. Use more water to remove the stain for gentle results. It is time consuming. A clean up tube is also available. Check if the substance is compatibility with a certain surface.

Philosophy of Deconstructive Architecture

We often relate the Deconstructive Architecture with the works of world famous architects like Frank Gehry, Zaha Hadid, Coop Himmelb (l) au, Peter Eisenman, Rem Koolhaas, Bernard Tschumi, Daniel Libeskind. But before labeling an Architect as ‘Deconstructive’ let us understand the Philosophy behind –

The term Deconstructivist Architecture was first used in 1988 as the title of an exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in New York, curated by Philip Johnson and Mark Wigley. Seven architects assembled beneath this ambiguous banner, they were – Peter Eisenman, Daniel Libeskind, Zaha Hadid, Frank Gehry, Koolhaas, Tschumi, and Coop Himmelb(I)au-and were unambiguously seen as “theoretical”. They were criticized by both proponents of various “postmodernisms” and conservative anti-intellectuals. Any idea that “Deconstructivism” was a movement with substance beyond this exhibition was rejected. Yet nearly twenty years later these so called theoretical architects have developed themselves as major practitioners on a global scale. Still theoretical in formal and programmatic stance, they are much more than theoretical in practice, since it is apparent in some of the most significant cultural commissions of the late twentieth century.

As is admitted by its practitioners, deconstruction aims to take form apart – to degrade connections, symmetries, and coherence. This is exactly the opposite of self-organization in complex systems, a process which builds internal networks via connectivity. Extra binding energy is required to hold components together. Natural morphogenesis unites matter, establishing multiple connections on different scales and increasing the system’s overall coherence; whereas deconstruction undoes all of this, mimicking the decay and disintegration of form. For this reason, deconstructivist buildings resemble the severe structural damage such as dislocation, internal tearing and melting suffered after a hurricane, earthquake, internal explosion, fire, or nuclear war!

“This is an architecture of disruption, dislocation, deflection, deviation and distortion, rather than of demolition, dismantling, decay, decomposition, or disintegration. It displays the structure instead of destroying it.”

The deviation from the structural order, threatening the former values of harmony, unity and stability, is therefore isolated from the structure, and can thus be considered as an adornment. The qualities of unity, harmony and balance arise from the geometry of purity and strict composition. The merging of such pure forms adhere compositional rules which do not allow one geometry/form to conflict with another and therefore the overall harmony is maintained. But form is no longer pure with Deconstructivism. It becomes adulterated by some variety of ‘alien’…

“The alien is an outgrowth of the very form that it violates; the form distorts yet does not destroy itself.”

The nature of the word proposes a reversal of construction, thus architecture which seems to take ‘knock down’ a structure, is being called Deconstructive. However Deconstruction is not the dismantling or disassembling of constructions! The imperfections, or ‘contamination’, do not result in the total collapse of structure. Deconstruction, as per Wigley, is a challenging of the values of harmony, coherence and balance. It suggests a new interpretation of structure; that the imperfections are inherent to the structure, and therefore can’t be removed. The flaws are structural!

A Deconstructive architect is therefore not one who dismantles buildings, but one who locates the inherent dilemmas within buildings!

Treatment of Cavus Foot Deformity With the DonJoy Arch Rival

The DonJoy Arch Rival Orthotic was developed in collaboration with Dr. Arthur Manoli, II, MD, director of Michigan International Foot and Ankle Center and Brian Graham, C Ped.. According to Dr. Manoli, Cavus Foot Deformities may affect up to 30% of the population.

A Cavus Foot Deformity is a term that describes a number of foot shapes, with the common factor being a “high arch”. This foot type changes the biomechanics of the foot during gait, causing an array of foot deformities and foot conditions, including bunions, callous formation and hammertoe deformities.

Most people are born with a high arch, just as some people are born with flat feet. There are some neuromuscular diseases such as Charcot Marie Tooth Disease that cause a high arch, but we will discuss the mild to moderate type that are the most common.

A high arched foot can also cause ankle sprains, leg pain and back pain due the position of the heel (varus), and poor shock absorption of the foot/ankle complex.

According to Dr. Manoli, rigid molded orthotics are not indicated for patients with cavus feet, as they tend to aggravate the condition, and reduce shock absorption, causing foot stiffness and stress related metatarsal fractures.

The DonJoy Arch Rival was designed specifically for patients suffering from mild to moderate Cavus Foot Deformities. Its patented , prefabricated orthotic design, ensures natural foot function, stability during gait and improved shock absorption. The unique feature of the Arch Rival is the recessed area under the head of the first metatarsal.

In may patients with a Cavus foot type, the first metatarsal is plantarflexed or below the normal level of the ball of the foot. When a patient lands on the ball of the foot, the first metatarsal strikes the ground first, causing it to elevate. This disrupts the natural gait cycle. In many patients, the first metatarsal complex is rigid and does not elevate, forcing the foot to turn outwards. Painful callus formation occurs under the first metatarsal due to the abnormal pressure that occurs. By creating a recess area or “pocket” under the head of the metatarsal, brings the ball of the foot into a more natural alignment, and therefore improved gait.

The addition of an elevated cushioned heel, improves shock absorption during heel strike, and accommodates patients with tight calf musculature, a common side effect of a Cavus foot type.

The Arch Rival is made of an anti-microbial, thermodynamic material that helps prevent bacteria growth, odor and blister formation.

The DonJoy Arch Rival comes in 7 different sizes that can also be trimmed for a more customized fit.

Please consult with your treating doctor or therapist to determine if the DonJoy Arch Rival is the orthotic device for your condition.