Dimensions of a Large Wooden Coffee Table

Large wooden coffee tables go well with big sofas and look wonderful in rooms that are larger than normal. These tables however can be placed even in bedrooms to place sculptures or family photos and are usually created with sleek lines or the antiques ones with carvings. Although coffee tables are available in contemporary or classical designs, the one you chose for your room or home depends on its style while the dimensions of the table must suit the living room arrangement.

Types and Dimensions

The more popular type of large wooden coffee tables are generally made of mahogany, pinewood or oak with the tops coming in glass or marble available in the traditional square, round or rectangular shapes. The larger ones have dimensions of 840mm wide, 280mm high and 40mm deep and are large enough to hold a full tray of coffee as well as magazines and newspapers. Some of the much larger wooden coffee tables can be used even as a cabinet or side table and has the capacity to hold a number of items.

Shapes and Styles

Of all the large wood coffee tables, the rectangular is by far the most popular especially since it matches the dimensions of most living rooms and lends a special ambiance to it. Tables made of oak veneer are also very popular with the nest of three tables made of wood not only looks good but does a great job in maximizing space in any room.

The designs of these large tables can be as traditional wooden or contemporary with a tempered glass top rectangular in shape and legs crafted in the cross over design. The modern designs also have extensions that lead from the legs for the purpose of placing magazines or plants to suit the décor and personality of a contemporary living room.

Some Examples

A large table that is great to look at and well made is the Leighton Barclay square table with overall dimensions of 20 "H, 40" W and 40 "D, constructed with rustic cherry veneers and hardwood and has four drawers and a wood framed woven cane shelf, or the William Sheppee Rajah Coffee table in walnut finish and acacia wood constructed with dimensions of 18 "H, 53" W and 29 "D. Both are perfect for a large room or living space.


The advantage of the large wooden coffee table is that it can be used not only as a decorative piece of furniture that lends sophistication and elegance to a room but can also be used to play cards, board games or for kids to use as a study table and as a centerpiece to hold snacks and nibbles when friends and relatives gather for a cozy, intimate evening. If this large coffee table comes in more than one level, so much the better since the extra space can be used to keep plates, and cutlery for easy reach.

When looking to buy a coffee table, if you can afford it and providing space is not a problem, you really should go for a large wooden coffee table which would turn out to be a worth while investment in the long term, especially if you ensure that it's made of high quality wood and well crafted by expert craftsmen.

Concrete Pool Deck Repair Solutions

When your concrete pool deck cracks or sinks, you may wonder how much it’s going to cost to repair it. You may worry how long your pool will be out of commission or if it might be damaged during the deck demolition. But when you use experienced professionals to do your concrete repair work, you won’t have such worries. Take a look at what you need to know before hiring a concrete lifting firm to handle repairs for your pool deck.

What Caused the Damage?

The most common reason pool decks crack is soil settlement after initial installation. When the pool site was first excavated and the pool was installed, backfill was placed around the edges. This is the surface upon which the concrete deck was installed, and this soil is normally not compacted enough to handle the weight of the building material and constant use.

Over a period of time ranging up to 10 years, soil settles as air pockets under the concrete are released. Depending on how extensive the settlement, the deck may gradually develop a slope, or it could drop seemingly overnight. If it lowers suddenly, the material could crack.

The concrete pool deck may also crack due to shrinkage. When the material is poured, some water evaporates during the curing time frame. If the mix contained too much water, the volume loss results in the concrete pulling apart during the drying period. Concrete can also crack when exposed to a number of freeze/thaw cycles throughout the winter. Melting ice is absorbed into the surface only to freeze again, causing the materials to expand and contract.

Pool Deck Damage Poses Safety Risks

Uneven, cracked decks surrounding pools are not only unsightly, they are also a major safety risk. Large cracks and lifted slabs create tripping hazards that may go unnoticed until an injury occurs. Pool decks are intended to include a slope that directs water away from the edges of the pool, decreasing slippery conditions. Tilted, uneven slabs can also work against this goal, increasing the chances of a harmful slip due to pooling water. It is not wise to ignore the problem – injuries near a pool are more serious, as they include a risk of drowning.

Pool Deck Lifting and Leveling Process

The lifting process is a useful, effective way to combat the effects of settling and cracking. A small hole is drilled into the sunken slab and a tool is inserted that pumps grout beneath the fixture. The substance props up the slab and restores it to its original level. The grout hardens and stabilizes the deck so no further sinking takes place. After the surface is even, cracks can be sealed and the repair solution can be stained to match the deck’s finish.

Concrete lifting is often a better solution than complete excavation, not just because it’s cheaper, but it’s faster and less risky as well. Consider concrete lifting to fix your cracked or broken pool deck.

Bathroom And Shower Room Wall Tiling Tips

Having a new bathroom tiled?

The following article is in response to all the people that are actually considering having new tiling for for the first time round and for those of you that want a decent job done.

Read on and you can spare yourself lots of anguish and desperation (and some money too).

It is now quite often when I go to price a tiling job that I have to advise people on some problem on carrying out the work. The typical hotspots are:

  • bath out of level
  • fitted showers
  • shower trays and baths with excessive gap between these and the walls
  • lipped shower trays not set in
  • shower unit/controls at the wrong height
  • radiators, towel rail, basin already fitted, toilet pan height and servicing
  • old tiles still in place after having a new suite installed

How can the above hotspots interfere with the tiling you may ask. Well, it goes like this:

“Bath out of level”

One of the first things that I do when starting a bathroom wall tile installation, is to put my long spirit level on and along the perimeter of the bath. What I found often is that the bath is badly out of level, sometimes dropping towards the plug hole and on fewer occasions dropping opposite to the plug hole. Of all of the baths I have seen to date I have not yet seen a bath that has not got a natural internal fall in order to drain the water, so I cannot see a valid reason for not having the top of the bath level. It must be said though, that occasionally, some baths are simply badly built. No much thought has been given for accommodating the tiles

If the tiles to be installed are a medium to large size and have no strong pattern, then is not a problem for the tiler. He/she would just need to trim the tiles accordingly to the fall but if the level is too much out you can have problem when installing a bath/shower screen onto the bath edge.

if on the other hand you are installing mosaic or tiles with lines or strong patterns, the tiling will look awful as even the smallest level difference along the bath length will be very noticeable. When dealing with mosaic, doing cuts means more time and money.

“Fitted shower”

I is important to have the tiles to go behind the unit as this can avoid water penetration in the wall/s. Some showers have the hot and cold pipes covered with a plate. On these type of shower units tiling must be done before the unit is fitted as the tile can be drilled neatly to accommodate the pipe work; if not, the tiles will need to be cut in a way that will have to show an unsightly finish. If the plumber is fitting a new shower unit ask him/her to allow for the pipe work to protrude from the wall more than it is needed, then to wait for the tiling to be done before final installation. I have had situations where the shower has been fitted, without even allowing for the tile thickness between the cover plates and the wall.

“Shower trays and baths with excessive gap”

When installing baths or trays make sure to have very little gap from them to the walls otherwise you might end up using either too much silicone or having to install a bath trim. I am not in favour of these bath/shower trims or tile beads as I have found the baths and trays can move downwards causing the trim to separate and capillary action allowing water to draw into the walls. If you find that the bath or tray is not fitting tight to the walls it is likely that it is due to the right angled wall not being square to the other or that the wall is bulging. It is standard practice to slightly bed in the bath/tray into the wall; just enough for the gap to close. This also helps “hold” the bath/tray in place. Many times you would only need to channel one wall only. This is when the internal corner of the wall is not square. Again, only set the tray into the wall until the gap closes. Care must be taken not to inset the bath too much as you might have problem with the taps distance to the wall, hence preventing clear access on opening and closing them. Also, pay attention to the shower tray as if you inset this too much, you might have problems later fitting the shower screen.

“Lipped shower trays not set in”

Lipped showers are those trays that have an upstand along 2 or more sides.

These trays are supposed to be containing the water within the tray and avoiding water leakage into the adjoining walls. In theory this is great but I have carried out a number of tiling repairs due to this type of tray. The reason why there has been some problem with this type of tray is because of poor plumbing installation. On a few occasions the tray was placed against the walls (not inset into the wall). On other occasions the fitter did not inset the tray enough into the walls. I have noticed that there usually is a considerable lateral movement once I step on the tray during tile installation. This causes the tray’s upright lip to move (from inside outwards) towards the tile and doing so, de-bonding the first row of tiles and in turn allowing water to penetrate in the wall, causing problems. The only way not to have any problem with this type of tray is to make sure that the tray is set in the wall more than the lateral movement allows. Care must be taken not to go too deep in the wall as the shower screen might not fit inside the tray.

“Shower unit/controls at the wrong height”

A common problem that can be avoided is the placing of the shower controls height onto the walls. As it is important for the user to have the controls at the right height one overlooked situation is the height of the tile border. If there is no border then it’s not a problem but if you are considering installing a tile border, then get the tiler to relay with the plumber as you don’t want to spoil the border being interrupted by the controls. If the border is thicker than the main tiles then you can have more problems with the control’s cover plates not seating flush, also if the border is thicker than the tiles the tiler will need to know where the shower/bath screen will be going exactly as that part of the border where the screen will cover must not be tiled or the screen won’t seat flush.

“Radiators, towel rail, basin already fitted, toilet pan height and servicing”

On situations where basin, towel rail radiators and toilet are fitted, this is where a lot of time will need to be spent as it (unless removed) will require to cut around these items (if possible). Here if planned in advance the tiling would need to be carried out BEFORE the final plumbing installation. Reality is that many plumbers want to get in and out as soon as possible not worrying about the tiling (after all, they are not doing it, are they!). If you are going to have the floor tiled then you MUST have the basin (pedestal), toilet pan and any surface mounted radiator OFF the floor and the plumbing already prepared for the new floor height. If the existing floor is made of wood, then there is a big chance that the floor will go up around 1″ – about 25 mm but can only be assessed during the estimate or quote.

“Old tiles still in place after having a new suite installed”

This is another thing overlooked.

You have planned your project for a long time, the workers get in to replace the old bathroom suite with the one you really wanted for a long time. They remove the first row of tiles abutting the old suite and install the new one. Job done.

It is beyond belief that some people can do this. “The tiler can take the tiles off”.

It must be appreciated that removing tiles after a new bathroom suite has been installed is no easy task and the risk of damage to it can be considerable. Also, at times, some sections of walls may need to be replaced or repaired according to the surface type and adhesive strength. Make sure that the tiles ARE removed prior to the new installation.

The same applies to kitchen installations.

© Tile Master © 2008

A Helpful Device – Helios Series Green Laser Pointer

Many people still have no idea what a laser pointer is in despite of its abundant applications in entertainment and scientific fields. I don’t say such words without a reason. I met a friend yesterday and told him I wanted to buy a green laser for business presentation. He was puzzled what a laser could do for presentation and I explained everything to him. Afterward, I realized that not everybody knew clearly about laser device, perhaps only professional people or laser followers were familiar with it.

A laser pointer is a small device which can emit narrow visible beam with a power source, and it used to highlight objects by illuminating them with a small bright spot. Lasers can be separated into many categories, which include green lasers, red lasers, blue violet laser pointers and so on. Now a green laser pointer has become the bellwether among all lasers by its bright shining beam, clear visibility, cheap price and high quality. Green lasers have different output powers, for example, some of them range from 1mW to 1000mW and people choose appropriate ones according to their purposes.

Generally speaking, lasers lower than 5mW are safe to use. However, people sometimes have to purchase high power ones to complete their tasks. That’s because many experiment effects cannot be achieved without enough power. The problem is how to meet various requirements of numerous people with different intentions?

With a wavelength of 532nm, the output power of Helios series green laser pointer ranges from 5mW to 150mW and it almost can meet all demands from different users. Helios series green lasers lower than 50mW are very appropriate for indoor presentations. Teachers at seminars, business people and interior decorators all make use of this green laser to help them to finish difficult assignments. It is indeed a capable assistant for long distance pointing and presentations.

Helios lasers from 50mW to 100mW are mainly used for stargazing and celestial objects observation. Hard explanation and arm waving are no longer needed with a laser pointer. The green laser is so bright that you can see its beam even at days, not to speak of in the darkness. Lasers above 100mW are quite useful for people who want to carry out professional researches and burning experiments. Besides, high power laser gadgets can be used in hiking and outdoor activities. The laser beam is bright enough to scare away large wild animals and users can send out signal for help in case of emergencies.

The injuries of high power laser pointers are serious and it is important for people to take protective measures when operating the laser pointer.

Gelcoat Repair

Undoubtedly at some point during your period of boat ownership gelcoat repairs will be necessary. After all, a boat is a big investment (well maybe not an investment) and for the most part boaters take pride in the appearance of their boat. What is worse than a freshly cleaned and waxed boat with a noticeable scratch or chip?

All is not lost when this happens. In fact gelcoat repairs are quite easy with a little bit of knowledge and some good ol 'elbow grease.

Before making the repair you should check to make sure that the damage is contained to only the gelcoat and has not damaged the fiberglass or that there is no structural damage. If the fiberglass is damaged or you suspect structural damage, have your boat inspected by a professional.

Perhaps the most difficult part of gelcoat repair is matching the gelcoat color with your hull color. This can be easily accomplished with a little bit of research. Try contacting the boat manufacturer or research on the internet. More often than not, you will find the exact color can be ordered to match your boat. If you can not find an exact color match you will have to mix a coloring agent with the gelcoat to obtain the desired color. Mix a small sample of the gelcoat and the coloring agent, let it dry to ensure it is the correct color when it dries.

If you have a scratch or chip it is best to use a gelcoat paste. Gelcoat paste will allow you to fill the scratch or chip with minimal coating. In most cases, one application will suffice. Liquid gelcoat will take many applications to build up the scratch in order to make it flush with the adjacent surface area.

I found the following steps will produce the best finish and minimize the cleanup.

1. Preparation
When you are satisfied that the gelcoat you have matches the existing color it is time to prep the scratched or chipped area. To do this get some masking tape and mask off the four sides around the chip leaving a small area of ​​good finish exposed (approximately 1/4 "-3/8" around the scratch on all sides). This will prevent excess gelcoat from adhering to the surrounding surface areas that have not been damaged.

When the taping is finished, sand the scratch and the exposed area around the scratch inside the tape with some 80-100 grit sand paper. You want to sand the area enough to lightly scuff up the exposed surface, but not so much that you make an indent or damage the fiberglass. Next sand the scratched area to remove any loose flakes or debris. You want to sand enough to make sure that there will not be any possible voids when applying the paste (create a "V" groove of the scratch). Gelcoat paste can bridge an opening when applied which will create a hollow void when it dries. Once you have finished sanding, wipe the area you sanded with some acetone to remove any wax or foreign debris.

2. Mixing and Applying the Gelcoat
Mix the paste and the hardener as indicated on the instructions supplied with you gelcoat. Once it is mixed apply the paste to the scratch. Do not put on to much paste or it will ooze out beyond the taped area. After the paste is applied, using a utility knife razor blade or a plastic scraper remove the excess paste with one smooth steady drag across the surface. You want to straddle the edges of the tape on either side of the scratch with the blade or scraper. This will give a finished surface of gelcoat slightly higher than the rest of the area when the tape is removed. Make sure that you level the paste and scrape off the extra before the gelcoat hardens. Do not keep trying to scrape and level the paste to get a perfect finish. Believe it or not this will only make it more difficult to sand and finish later.

3. Sanding and Finishing
After the gelcoat has fully hardened (follow manufactures drying time), remove the tape and begin sanding the repaired area with 150 grit sand paper. When sanding, do not sand the repaired area below the adjacent surface. Use a small sanding block to help ensure an even surface with the adjacent surface.

When the new gelcoat is flush with the adjacent surface, change the paper to 220 grit wet paper. Again using a block, sand the repair, this time use a small circular motion keeping the sand paper and the area slightly wet. Feather the repaired area into the old gelcoat until you can not detect a ridge or bump in the repaired area (use caution to sand the area flat if it is on a curved area).

Change the sand paper to 420 grit wet paper. Wet sand the area until the repair area has a uniform appearance and blends in with the surrounding surface completely.

Again change the sand paper using 660 grit wet sand the area and finish off with 1000 grit wet sanding paper.

Once you are satisfied with the blending of the sanded area, dry off the area. Apply rubbing compound to the repaired area. Buff the area in a circular pattern in order to get a high gloss. This may take a couple of applications, reducing pressure on every application, to reach the desired finish which should match the glossy sheen of the original surface.

Finish off with a fresh coat of wax. If done correctly, the damage should be undetectable when you finish.

Feng Shui Architecture

Feng Shui is a Chinese philosophy focusing on the relationship between humans and the environment. It is a natural earth science which reveals how people are affected by their immediate surroundings. Since everything is connected, certain geographical, architectural and planetary conditions have the power to either improve or worsen our well-being.

Feng-Shui is based on the laws of nature and provides us theories that explain why certain things happen in our lives. These theories stem from logical conclusions about natural cause and effects that have endured through time The Chinese philosophy dictates that everything is made of chi, or energy which is further broken up into the five basic elements of metal, fire, water, wood and earth. Each of these physical elements has energies that have frequencies with a unique wavelength which react with each other in different ways, either positive or negative. Humans are affected by cosmic and earth energies and feng shui is a way for us to harness this power and use it for our good.

Based on the Taoist philosophies of nature which include the Yin-Yang Theory, Five Element Theory and the Yi-Jing Trigrams, feng shui helps us determine which frequencies work positively with our own personal energy as well as the energies of our family members and co-workers. By using this knowledge we can create an environment of comfort that allows us to live efficiently and progressively. Everything can be designed keeping the principles of feng shui in mind – feng shui decorations, feng shui bedrooms, fengshui living rooms etc.

However, the phenomenon of Feng-Shui as passed down from the generations is complex to understand in its entirety and mastered by only a privileged few.

Today, feng shui is a multi-disciplinary study encompassing architecture, urban planning, geography, astrology, electromagnetism, landscape design, environmental psychology and much more.

Using the ancient science and philosophy of feng shui we can design, build, remodel, and decorate our homes successfully so that they will become environments that support our lives and our well-being. In today’s fiercely competitive world, architects have thus succumbed to the needs and demands of the clients and started incorporating principles of feng shui to harmonize with the spiritual forces that inhabit it, and their application in architecture through planning principles, services, building elements and materials. The architect well versed in feng shui can also use its benefits to match structures and land, forecast development related concerns such as cost overruns, quality issues, worker injuries and trade disputes.

Come to the Edge

“Come to the edge.”

“We can’t. We’re afraid.”

“Come to the edge.”

“We can’t. We will fall!”

“Come to the edge.”

And they came.

And he pushed them.

And they flew.

— Guillaume Apollinaire, 1880-1918

French Poet, Philosopher

Every day, parents and teachers are coaxing children a little closer to the edge, until eventually they are ready to be pushed off. To build enough trust in another person to be willing to come to the edge, even when fearful, is the true foundation of a solid relationship. In the above quote, I think of the fearful responder as the child or apprentice, and the coaxer as the parent or guide.

The idea of guided participation or coaxing, is a foundation of the RDI® program. Each parent is equipped with the ability to guide, encourage, scaffold and eventually “push” their child over the edge into independence. The scenario that is described in the quote is a very common occurrence for the families and children we see on a daily basis in our clinic. The child with an autism spectrum disorder frequently communicates, “I can’t. I’m afraid. I’ll fail.” This may not be communicated verbally, but can be seen in the child’s behavior or demeanor. When parents or teachers are able to provide the right amount of guidance, encouragement and scaffolding, the child begins to trust that the guide will not push them over the edge until they are ready to fly solo.

How do guides help the apprentice prepare for flying solo? Scaffolding is the best technique I know for working toward independence. Scaffolding requires that the guide provide just the right amount of support to ensure that the apprentice does not fail, but not so much support that s/he does not learn anything new. Scaffolding can be provided in several different ways, and the amount of scaffolding varies from task to task. A child that requires complete physical hand-over-hand scaffolding in one task may only require an occasional nonverbal prompt in others. It can be difficult at times to determine how much scaffolding is appropriate for a give situation; but my general rule of thumb for guides is that if you feel like you are doing all of the work and the child is just a passive participant, then you have provided too much scaffolding. On the other hand, if you are having breakdown after breakdown and the child and you walk away from the activity feeling like failures, then you probably have not provided enough scaffolding. This can sometimes be a fine line to walk; but with some practice it gets easier to determine what type of support an apprentice will need in a given situation. The goal is to be able to reduce the amount of scaffolding over time until the apprentice is ready to “fly solo.”

This may take a few days, a few weeks, a few months, or even a few years. Take it slow, and make sure you are building competence along the way. Bring the apprentice to the edge without fear and uncertainty; help them want to fly. This may be one of the best gifts that guides can give: enough scaffolding to build the competence to go it alone.

Around the Dinner Table

The dinner table can be a great place for family bonding. Many families do not make use of the kitchen table and family meals together as they did in the past. We live in such a hustle and bustle society that all too often, family members are running in different directions instead of spending time together as they should be.

Many studies have shown that children from families who eat together do better in school as well as other areas of their lives. They are more secure in who they are and they tend to have more confidence. Such a small thing can make such a huge difference in the lives of your children.

Here are some tips to help you get the most from time spent around the dinner table with your kids:

  • Ask open-ended questions so you get more than one word answers or grunts.
  • Do not do all the talking; give your child a chance to tell you about their day.
  • If you have multiple children, give each one the same fair amount of time to share.
  • Ask for your child's advice on something happening in your life.
  • Share some parts of your day (but do not vent).
  • Ask your children how they feel about certain current events or things in the news.
  • Ask about where they would like to go on vacation.

With these tips, you can get more from around the dinner table. Make it a point to have family meals together as often as possible. It will be good for you as well as for your children, no matter what their age.

Clear Gloss Concrete Sealers

A clear gloss concrete sealer is an acrylic resin system with built-in water repellence. Clear gloss concrete sealers generally consist of low volatile organic compounds, which are non-inflammable and non-staining. They ensure outstanding adhesion and durability, by repelling moisture and resisting efflorescence, marring and stains.

A clear gloss concrete sealer is chiefly used to provide a high gloss finish along with a wet look to concrete surfaces. It also helps to protect the concrete from chemicals such as brake fluid, transmission fluid, motor oil, salt water, bleach and gasoline. Clear gloss concrete sealers are most effective to treat concrete patios, driveways, exposed aggregate, garage and basement floors, porches, steps, and sidewalks. It is also applied over acid stones, untreated bricks, and unglazed tiles.

Clear gloss concrete sealers are usually applied directly on bare concrete surfaces. Sometimes, these are used as a top coat to provide superior protection. Before applying clear gloss sealers, it is necessary to prepare the surface, which includes removal of dirt and oil. Some concrete surfaces may need acid-etching. In the case of previously painted concrete surfaces, all chalk and peeling paint must be removed. For concrete surfaces coated with high gloss items such as epoxy and urethane, the surface is required to be abraded to remove the gloss. A floor scrubber or an abrasive scrub pad will best serve the purpose.

It is also vital to test for product compatibility, prior to the usage of clear gloss concrete sealers. For best results, a minimum of two to three coats is required. To apply clear gloss concrete sealer on porous concrete, airless sprayer is the most recommended equipment. A stationary pull-along applicator or a brush can be used for applying clear gloss concrete sealer in smooth surfaces.

At present, a choice selection of clear gloss concrete sealers formulated from advanced technologies is available. Concrete sealers with non-toxic, bio-based penetrating systems are suitable for green buildings and structures with complaints regarding air quality.

Tips to Keep Your Combi Boiler Running Smoothly and Avoid Repairs

  • Inhibitor – First of all, always make sure you have inhibitor in your system. Inhibitor is a chemical that is added to the water in your system to protect it from scale and corrosion. This will stop parts of your boiler from getting blocked and/or damaged when the water (and debris) is circulating around your central heating system. I would strongly recommend getting a decent inhibitor (Sentinel/Fernox) as opposed to a cheaper alternative. You can pick these up for around £15 – £20 at your local plumbers merchant or DIY store.
  • Frozen condensate pipe – A common problem for condensing combi boiler repair call outs in the winter is when the condensate pipe freezes it causes the boiler to shut down completely. A simple solution to this problem is to make sure the condensate pipe that is outside is at least 32mm in diameter. As standard, condensate pipe is around 22mm and it would be best to keep it indoors as much as possible but increasing the size outside will stop the pipe from freezing and your boiler from needing repairs.
  • Pressure gauge – Keep an eye on your pressure gauge. Most combi boilers need to have the pressure set between 1 and 1.5 bar of pressure. You will usually have different coloured safe zones on the pressure gauge. If the pressure drops below the safe zone then you will need to top up the pressure by adding some water to the system via the filling loop. If you keep having to fill up the system because of pressure loss, then you must have a leak somewhere in your boiler or a radiator or on some pipework.
  • Bleeding radiators – If your radiator is getting hot at the bottom but not at the top, then you will need to bleed the air out of your radiator. To do this you will need a radiator bleed key which you can buy for less than £2. Simply find the little square bolt at the top of the radiator and unscrew it anti-clockwise with the key until you hear the air coming out. Keep going until you get some water coming out but always remember to top the pressure back with water via the filling loop.

Keeping on top of these simple problems could save you a lot of unnecessary expense for boiler repairs in the future. If you do not feel confident at doing any of these, then it is best find someone that does.

High Power Led Flashight

This flashlight is one that will:

* Stream over 300meters of light

* Run for a whopping 150hrs

* IPX-8 Standards waterproofing

* The finish is a Type III hard-anodized anti-abrasive

My backyard is approximately 25meters in width. If I stand on my veranda with this flashlight shinning down the yard, it’s beam literally reaches fence to fence with so much light, it’s like going from night to day.

The amazing Fexin TK40 comes with eight modes of operation. Four of the modes are primary functions and other modes are secondary functions.

Here are the output ratings in lumens, out of the four power modes.

* Low = 13 Lumens

* Medium = 93 Lumens

* High = 277 Lumens

* TURBO = 630 Lumens

To compare, the medium setting on the Fenix TK40 is about the same as my three, D cell battery mag light torch. My maglight beam was set to the same size as the Fenix TK40.

As mentioned earlier, each mode has a secondary function which are;

* Low function is Slow Flash

* Medium function is SOS Flash

* High function is Fast Flash

* TURBO function is Strobe

Of course the SOS function would be handy if you had to use it. It better than manually turning it on and off for hours. You never know when you might need to use one of these flashing functions. For instance, if you need a marker for a night navigational course, the slow flash is perfect. If you are a security or police officer, the strobe would be excellent for startling people.

On the low setting, you’ll get 150hrs of run time. That’s approximately 6 straight days. Is the low setting worth it? Good enough to light up a tent at night. If you’ve been asleep for a while and wake up, it will sure light up the room. I know from experience, on low my house lights up late at night.

If you hunt and want a good spotlight, turn this to TURBO mode for the brightest LED flashight you’ve ever used. Honest! TURBO has a run time of 2hrs.

Still in TURBO mode, when it’s the darkest it can be, you can set the flashlight on a table, facing up towards the ceiling, turn it on and it’s just like having a regular light on.

You can act as if you were using regular light and read or eat dinner. I have never had or used such a great flashlight. To this day I’m still amazed at how good it really is. This high powered LED flashlight is second to none.

How to Remove Stains in Leather Seats

You left the car window down or the sunroof open and there’s a water stain in your car’s leather seat….or your girlfriend spilled here red wine in your leather car seat on a night out on the town….or your kids decided they were a soon to be artist and tried their techniques out on your leather car seat with a pen, arrggg. Got kids myself, so feel your pain. Stain removal in leather seats can be tough, here’s a few tricks to help get you going.

As a professional leather repair specialist I’m here to tell you that there are not to many products that can be used on a leather car seat that won’t remove the finish before removing the stain. Most leather in today’s cars is a finished leather with a water borne urethane leather dye applied to it and is pretty susceptible to chemicals and can be removed pretty easily with a solvent cleaner. So when in doubt call a professional.

Water stains in Leather Seat….this is a pretty hard one to get rid of. I recently had reader send me an email on how he could get the water stains out of his car after leaving his sunroof open. This part is kinda for him considering I think I lost his email with pictures, I did get to see them though, so not all was lost. The pictures showed a crease that ran along the middle of the leather seat where the water had puckered the leather. In this type of situation there are two things we could do, one is sand the crease out and with some fillers and dye make the seat new again, this is where a leather professional comes in to play, or replacement of the section that is creased, that’s where an upholstery shop comes in. In these type of situations there aren’t any leather conditioners or cleaners in the world that will remove a creased or puckered leather, what happens is the actual structure of the fibers in the leather have been altered and what you see is what you have.

If the water hasn’t puckered the leather and has just left a stain, a little trick I learned from my good friend Dwain Berlin with Leather Craft Secrets, and you go to your bread box in the kitchen for this one. Take a piece of bread and roll it up into a ball and rub and blot the area with the bread ball, works pretty good. Dwain has a lot of great advice for leather care, and if your interested in some great fun with leather go check out his book, it’s quite impressive and I myself learned a few things.

Most of the time water will just evaporate and with no problems and the stains will disappear. If your car leather gets wet dry it as best you can with a towel and then condition it with your Lexol Conditioner. One way to dry the cars leather is by leaving the windows down and setting it in the sun to dry, or crack the windows and turn your car on with the heat on full blast and let it run for about 30 minutes. I’m not real hip on that one cause it’s a waste of gas but it does work to dry things out better. But always condition, some rain waters are pretty dirty and harsh and the leather needs those extra nutrients to keep it soft.

If the stains are just too bad then new leather dye is the only way to bring it back then call your local leather professional like me to come and make it new again.

Mold Stains in Leather Seat….Or mildew which ever. This one kinda goes along with the water stains. Take and mix a cup of water and a cup of rubbing alcohol and mix them together, take a towel and rub a small amount of the solution onto the stained areas, until the spot is gone, again watch for dye lift, this trick works pretty well and usually removes the mildew pretty quick without dye removal.

Food Stains in Leather Seat….This one can be an easy one if you just don’t eat in your car, but I’m just as guilty as most and eat on the run. A mild dish soap and warm water with a rag or scotch brite pad will do the trick in most cases. Most automotive leather is finished and food stuffs usually will wipe right off. If you run into a stubborn one though try a little all-purpose degreaser on a rag, don’t rub too much or dye may lift. If the stain on your leather car seat from food doesn’t come up with this then the dye from the food has penetrated the fibers of the leather and has dyed it, so it’s time for a professional leather dye job.

Aniline leather or NuBuck leather is a different story though, thats the soft stuff you see as an inserted piece usually in the middle of the seats. You can use the soapy solution but water spots sometimes show up, so a special cleaner works best for this kind of leather. One I suggest is from the guys over at Leather Magic, they have a NuBuck Leather Care Kit that is the answer to all your NuBack needs. This kit includes cleaners and conditioners for the soft stuff, this type of leather is delicate and should be treated as such. Don’t use your usual leather cleaners and conditioners on this type of leather due to fact of the oils in them will damage the look of the leather, then no more soft feeling NuBuck, so definitely check out Leather Magics NuBuck Kit.

Ink, Marker, and Crayon on Leather Seat….Urgent!!! Get to it as soon as you can! If the ink is fresh you have a better chance of removing it from the leather then not. Rubbing alcohol, with a little bit of acetone added will sometimes get it. I’ve heard of hairspray, tried it with not much luck. Usually when an ink pen and leather come together they marry and don’t split to easily. Ink is a dye and is made to penetrate whatever it comes into contact with. Most ink spots I’ve ran into I’ve usually had to dye the leather to cover the spot.

Crayon on a leather seat can be a booger if it’s melted in the seat, you can try this but be careful not to burn or pucker your leather. Take an iron and a paper towel and lay the paper towel over the crayon and with a low heat rub the iron over the paper towel over the crayon. The crayon will melt into the paper towel, move the towel around to clean spots until the crayon is gone, a little of rubbing alcohol should remove the remaining. This trick works on carpet and cloth too. If they’re just marks on the leather seat a little soap and water should do the trick or even a little rubbing alcohol on a towel works good to. If all fails there is a product from Protective Products Corp. that is all natural with no solvents that will remove crayon and lipstick it’s called Solv-It, but just like anything try a spot in an unsuspecting spot to see if it removes dye.

One last trick that I’ve read about around the net and am in the process of testing it, but it the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, they do work around the house, so why not the car too. I’ve removed crayon and marks on my walls before with them, I do notice it take a little paint with it though, but they do work. If you use one, be careful and don’t go ape sh$#, rub it then look, rub it then look, they will remove dye, so when using it take your time and check it as you go.

Sweat Stains in Leather Seat ….Salt stains from sweat can be pretty gross looking, but there is a little trick. Take and make a solution of 3 parts vinegar and one part water and wet a towel and rub the area clean, the vinegar breaks down the and helps to remove the stain.

Paint on Leather Seat….Paint removal on a leather car seat, well that ones a hard one. If it has dried it’s probably there to stay. If it’s a water color, just use soap and water to remove it. Latex house paint, you can try a little Goof Off but keep in mind this is a solvent and can damage the leather seat and remove dye. I have in the past been able to take my pocket knife and scrape it off. Wet the area first with a little water and lightly try to lift the paint off with your knife or even a razor blade, but don’t cut the leather. Mostly though this really doesn’t work without removing the dye underneath, but I have had luck sometimes. If its car paint, try a little paint reducer on a rag, but just wipe lightly and don’t soak the area with the reducer. Solvents and leather seats just don’t mix.

My best advice to all when it come to stains in your leather car seats, and that is to be conscious of what you do, try to keep our little Picasso’s pen free, keep our food out of our cars, roll the windows up and sunroofs closed, and always remember to treat the leather with your Lexol Conditioner on a regular basis, this helps to keep the leather car seats protected and soft and makes it easier to get the spills and accidents from turning into disasters.

But always remember that we leather repair professionals are here to save those leather car seats and bring them back to there original state. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact me for all your leather repair needs.

Interior Design and Architecture – How to Tie Interior and Exterior Together

The key is to pay close attention to the size and shape of the facility. Creating a coordinated setting is all about acquiring appropriate furniture and fixtures to fill in the room. Never forget that interior design and architecture must complement one another or else your room will wind up as a jumble of odd bits and pieces that do not appear to belong together.

Interior Design in the Office

Well-designed corporate buildings are a pleasing sight to behold. All around the country, you will see commercial buildings with remarkable designs that are both functional and beautiful. If you happen to maintain an office in a commercial building that prides itself on the beautiful architecture, make certain that you don’t spoil the effect by placing interior décor items that do not blend with the existing architecture. To make sure that your interior design does blend well with the architecture,

it would be a wise decision to hire an interior decorator to do your office. A good interior decorator is adept at knowing just how to blend interior design and architecture. That way no one can accuse you of creating a sort of monstrosity inside your office.

When hiring an interior designer, you will want to present him or her with the ideas of what you are looking for. For instance, you might have in mind to project an ultra modern atmosphere in your office which will suit your occupation. Of course it’s easier to simply let the interior designer decide what all to do with the office décor. However, if you want to keep your personal touch in your surroundings, it would be smart to suggest your ideas about the design in advance. Besides, the blending of interior design and architecture is not the ultimate objective in designing your office.

You will also want to have an office where it will be a comfortable and pleasing place to work. Functionality and comfort of the office should be one of your primary considerations aside from the interior design and architecture.

Since decorating your office will entail a sizable investment, you might want to give your Interior Designing Techniques an idea of how much you are willing to budget on the décor. Giving the interior designer such guidelines will help a great deal when he or she sets about to select furniture and fixtures for your office.

How To Find Professional Scaffolders?

Scaffolders are an important investment when a person or company is starting any construction project. One could be working on a residential home or a commercial property like an office building and would still need to find some professional scaffolding companies with which to work. This is no joking matter – one wrong move with such equipment, and there could be a serious accident that could injure lives and could damage property. This is why it is important to do research a scaffolders London group is selected. The more one knows about a group’s reputation and insurance policies, the better off he or she will be to choose a company that will really protect them.

One of the first things a person should do when looking for London-based scaffolders is look online. The Internet is full of rich information. With the click of a finger, a person can read reviews and find lists of such companies in the London area. Interested individuals should really check out all of the websites of such groups, should compare prices and services, and should read as many reviews as possible. This ensures that the right group will be found: one with a solid reputation and competitive prices.

Interested parties and companies that need scaffolding should talk to loved ones and local businesses to find out which professionals scaffolders to work with in London. Referrals and recommendations are a safe way to find and select a reputable company. It is important to ask about everything from pricing and the staff to the quality of the equipment this group provides. Talking to people in person means that interested groups can find out as much about local companies as is possible. The fewer surprises, the better off one will be.

Lastly, newspapers are a great resource to turn to when in need of professional scaffolding companies. Companies may have advertised their group’s prices and services in local papers. One can check out such publications both in print or online. This could be a great way to hear about deals and promotions and to read up on which companies are used for which projects.

Folks looking for scaffolders London groups should look online, talk to loved ones, and see what local businesses have used in the past. Reputations in the community count for a lot when looking for professionals in the London area. Newspapers, websites, and friends, family members, and coworkers will all have great information about which professionals to work with in London.

How to Play Table Tennis

It's cold, and it's snowing, and you can not get outside to do any of the things you enjoy. What's a sport that you can play all year round, regardless of rain, shine, or snow? Table tennis! It's easy to learn and incredibly fun. Here are the basic facts about this exciting and engaging game.

First off, you should know the point scale. To win a game, you have to score eleven points before your opponent does. If the game is tied at 10 points each, that's called a deuce and the first person who snags the lead by two points wins.

Now that you know what to do, you can get started! Although in a big-time table tennis match, players often toss a coin to decide who will serve first. If you're just hitting around in the den, it can be less formal.

When you're just learning how to play table tennis, serving can be difficult. Do not worry, it gets easier with practice. Simply remain standing behind your side of the table, hold the ball in the hand without the racquet, and toss it in the air. When it falls, tap it with the paddle, just enough so that it gets over net. If it bounces more than once before the other player hits it, you'll get a point. Do not let it touch the net and then hit your opponent's side because then you'll have to serve it again. If it hits the net and then bounces back to your side, the other player gets the point. While you're playing, remember not to let the ball hit your side more than once because that's a point in favor of your opponent.

Serving duties will alternate back and between players. Once someone scores a point, the person who did not serve last time will serve. You'll keep getting points as long as you hit the ball longer than the other player does. They'll score if they hit it longer than you do, if you make a poor serve, or if you let it bounce more than once on your side of the net.

A game ends when someone's point total reaches eleven. After each game, players switch sides and the person who did not serve first at the beginning of the last game will serve. To turn these little games into a match, simply play three to seven games. Ready, play!