Roofing Terms – Do You Know These?

When discussing a topic with someone it facilitates the conversation to have a working knowledge of the vocabulary. If you have a need to inquire about your roof whether for repairs, updates or new construction it would be beneficial to know some roofing terms. The basic descriptors of a roof have to do with the style or shape of the construction.

These shapes are often chosen depending on your house style and sometimes the geographic location. Although there are variations, the style of a roof will be classified into two categories – gabled or hipped. When using the roofing terms gabled and hipped you are referring to the elements of slope, overhang and peak style.

A gabled style is the type where the roof slopes from the peak, or ridge in this case, down to the eaves. This results in a triangle appearance on two or more sides of the house. On these sides, the part of the roof that hangs out over the edges is referred to as the rake. The sides of the house without the signature triangle appearance also have an overhang. This is referred to as the eaves.

There are basically three sub-categories of gabled roofs, which also have their own roofing terms. A front-gabled house is the type where the front door is in the gabled side. That is, if you look at the front door you will see the signature triangular section above the door. This is often used with A-frame houses.

The second sub-category is side-gabled. These houses have the front door on an eave side, and the appearance from the front is a view sloping up the roof to the ridge. The triangular areas are on the sides of the house. The third type is cross-gabled. These houses appear to be a blend of two gabled sections merged at a 90-degree angle.

When a roofline is termed hipped, there are generally three other roofing terms that describe the subcategories. A hipped roof does not have the signature triangle as the continuation of the walls. All the slopes of the roof will slant in toward a center ridge or point at the peak. The first sub-category of a hipped roof is termed simple hipped.

All four roof sections of the house slant toward a central ridge running across the top of the house. The second sub-category is termed pyramid due to the appearance of the roof resembling a pyramid. All the sections of the roof slant to single point at the peak of the house. This was a popular design back when historic homes were built. The last sub-category is termed cross-hipped. Like the cross-gabled it has the appearance of two units joined at a 90-degree angle.

All these elements carrying their own unique roofing terms add to the style and type of home construction. Some choices are made based on the climate or other environmental factors, and some are chosen for aesthetic reasons.

Take a look at your roof and define which of these basic types you have on your home. This will assist you in conversing with professionals when you are in need of repairs or updates…

A Good Keyword Tool From Google

Many webmasters who come online would have come across a good keyword tool from Google. It is known as the Google Keyword Research Tool. Take a closer look at this program and you will know why it is a good tool to use.

Google Keyword Research Tool

If you are looking for a good keyword tool that you could use for free, you should turn to Google, which has its Google AdWords Keyword Research Tool. It is a special program that is designed to help users obtain the right and most targeted keywords and key phrases for any online content. Through time, this tool has proven to be very effective in helping online advertisers and website owners in producing articles and content that would not just attract users’ attention; they would also rank high in search engine results.

Google Keyword Research Tool has recently updated its features to be more helpful to users. Now, keyword analysis and search engine optimization is made much easier and more effective. You could maximize the advantages from using the program through strategic techniques and tricks that you could easily master as you keep on using it. This makes it not just a good keyword tool; it could also be considered as the best in the market today.

Competitive Keywords In A Niche

If you own a business website, you must be finding it hard to determine keywords that would stand out in your market niche. You could no longer rely on the old and traditional way of looking for such keywords. Trial and error technique may be too tedious and too time-consuming. This is where a good keyword research tool like Google Keyword Research Tool could be most helpful. It is now a breeze to get into a keyword analysis that would be easiest and most profitable for your purpose.

The process of using this good keyword tool could be considered very easy. First, go to the webpage of the Google Keyword Tool. On a designated search box, enter the subject or niche. Click the search button. In a matter of seconds, you would obtain a list of keywords and key phrases that would certainly be more optimized when used in articles and other content used across the Internet.

Filtering Options

What sets Google Keyword Tool more outstanding compared to all other good keyword tool programs is its ability to filter or customize the search process. You could make the search more optimized and more specific to fit in your purpose and requirements. You could search for keywords that are specific to your target language, geography, and demographic targets.

Through this advanced filtering search option, you could choose to attain keywords that are more competitive. You could also opt to use keywords that have recently topped global monthly searches, using Google’s own search engine facilities. There are many other filtering options available and facilitated. It would be best if you do the exploration yourself.

Architectural Engineer Job Description

Architectural engineers build and design facilities for the improvement of public standard of living. They solve the requirements of energy needs, urban development, building systems and community planning. There are different fields of specialization in architectural engineering like: construction engineering, heating, structural engineering, ventilating and air conditioning engineering, illumination and electrical systems, solar heating and cooling. This professionals use high-tech products in applying latest CAD (computer aided design) and analysis techniques, using sensing devices during design, construction and non-destructive testing and measurement. Architecture is the favorite field for most engineers. But many choose varied fields such as landscape architecture, interior design, engineering architecture jobs, planning, urban design, computer imaging, solar design and technology, environmental law, community development, environmental engineering and environmental psychology. The employment growth in this field is estimated around 19% in recent years. The average starting architectural engineering salary nationally is $ 48,805. Graduates with a Bachelor's Degree get a starting offer of $ 41,667.

Engineering Architecture Jobs – Scope:

Majority of AE graduates join firms which deal with structural, HVAC, and electrical design. Some choose small specialty firms with a focus on acoustical consulting or lighting. One may work as facilities managers or choose a manufacturer and work with design of building system components or in sales. There is another option and that is construction management.

Top Architectural Engineering Firms:

Here is a list of top notch engineering firms, having engineering architecture jobs with whom, will enhance your future career prospects tremendously. Tighe & Bond is a civil engineering and environmental consulting firm The Dennis Group is a design, architectural, engineering, planning and construction company Vanasse Hangen Brustlin Inc. provides civil and environmental engineering, transportation, land development services The Berkshire Design Group excels in landscape architecture, civil engineering, surveying Coler & Colantonio Inc deals with land development, civil engineering, and surveying Fuss and O'Neil Inc. handles civil / environmental engineering, transportation, and environmental compliance SVE Associates overlooks surveying, planning, engineering Environmental Compliance Services Inc. is an industrial / environmental compliance, cost recovery, remediation system design / installation company Hill Engineers Architects Planners Inc. handles mechanical, electrical, structural, civil and land surveying Lindgren & Sharples sees to mechanical, electrical, and design construction.

What is the Meaning of Floaters?

What is the meaning of floaters?

Floaters are seen by the patients as floating black spots on their visual field.

Why patients see floaters

The eye consists of two segments, the anterior segment which lies in front of the lens and is filled with aqueous humor while the posterior segment is filled with vitreous humor. During childhood, the vitreous is clear and is jellylike material. Later in life, vitreous normally will undergo liquefaction and changed from jellylike material to fluid like material in a process called vitreous syneresis and this will cause the collage fibers within the vitreous to form strands. With each eye movements, those strands will also move, causing floaters.

Another normal mechanism of floaters is posterior vitreous detachments. Normally there are adhesions between the vitreous and the retina and for some reasons like old ages, myopia and trauma; these adhesion's will be released causing vitreous detachments from the retina. Vitreous will collapse inside the posterior segment of the eye and with each eye movements, collapsed vitreous will move, causing floaters.

Posterior vitreous detachment is normally present in old ages and also in myopic patients. Usually it occurs without complications and only the patients will complain of floaters which usually will disappear from few weeks to month later. Sometimes, posterior vitreous detachment from the retina is incomplete, in which some parts will remain attached to the retina, causing traction on the retina. This traction will be noticed by the patient as flashes of lights and with time, this traction can lead to retinal detachment.

Note: Any patient who noticed floaters for the first time should have complete ocular examination to rule out any incomplete vitreous detachments with traction on the retina.

Other causes of floaters are deposits on the vitreous humor which can occur after uveitis in which white blood cells will deposit, after resolved vitreous hemorrhage in which red blood cells will deposit, after cataract surgery especially when there is posterior capsule rupture, after intraocular injections in which drug remnants will deposit in the vitreous.

What are the causes of deposits in the vitreous humor?

1- Causes of uveitis like sarcoidosis, multiple sclerosis, Behçet diseases, leukemia and many other causes of intra-ocular inflammation
2- Causes of intra-ocular infections like syphilis, toxoplasmosis, tuberculosis and CMV retinitis
3- After cataract surgery especially with posterior capsule rupture
4- After YAG laser capsulotomy, in which the laser will be used to create a hole in fibrosed posterior capsule.

How floaters disappear?

1- By brain adaptation, in which your brain will ignore the presence of these floaters and you will no long see them
2- By natural absorption process of the eye, especially of cases that occur after uveitis, vitreous hemorrhage.
3- Treatment of the underlying conditions like with anti-inflammation and antibiotics
4- Vitrectomy, which is the surgery to remove the vitreous. It is indicated when there are large amounts of deposits in the vitreous that did not cleared with time or medications and they affect the vision of the patient.

Is Removable Insulation Your Best Solution?

Before we can talk about whether removable insulation is the correct solution for anyone, it’s worth taking a minute to define it: Removable insulation is a blanket or jacket that can be put on and taken off easily. Often, the blankets use Velcro(TM), and are as easy to affix as putting on sneakers that have Velcro ties. In contrast, regular insulation can be put on by professionals, but to take it off, you have to rip it out. It cannot be reused, and the process of ripping out the regular insulation creates quite a mess of fiberglass (I’ll bet your itching right just reading that).

So for whom is removable insulation the appropriate solution?

Organizations (factories, schools, etc) that have to have routine maintenance on their pipes or other fixtures requiring insulation. Often, the manager of the facility orders standard insulation, but when it comes to having that routine maintenance, the insulation must be ripped off so that the maintenance people can see the valves. The result is usually a pile of broken insulation on the floor, and a bare pipe or valve. With removable – they unstrap the insulation, do their work, and strap it back on.

Organizations that need to measure the output of their pipes and other fixtures. For example, maintenance people often have to measure if there is excess heat coming out of a steam trap. If there is, they know that the steam trap is not working correctly, and needs some maintenance. In order to get at the trap, the “standard” insulation may need to be ripped off (resulting in a costly replacement and fiberglass everywhere.)

Some organizations use insulation to dampen the noise that pipes produce, but are required to measure the vibration that creates the noise. Again, the measurement results in ripping off old insulation, but just a quick open and close if the company had the foresight to purchase removable insulation.

Organizations that need to manage “metal fatigue.” When a pipe is subjected to frequent changes in temperature (hot then cold, hot then cold), the pipe expands and contracts so much that the metal gets “tired” of holding its shape. Stress fractures begin to propagate, and a dangerous situation develops. This is a problem for most energy plants. In order to evaluate the fatigue, the insulation must be removed to x-ray the pipe.

Very hot pipes bring a secondary and tertiary problem with them: it may take a while to get a re-installer for the insulation, resulting in a) being out of OSHA requirements and b) danger to the workers from being burnt by an exposed pipe. The latter not only hurts workman’s comp rates, but is also bad for productivity and employee morale.

Removable insulation alleviates most of the insulation problems that come with metal fatigue. It can be easily removed and reused on the same pipe. However, removable has an added advantage here: just like your Velcro(TM) sneakers can be made a little looser if you have a swollen foot, removable insulation can be adjusted. As the hot-then-cold pipes expand and contract, the regular (non-removable insulation) will gradually break, since it is built for a specific size; the removable, however can be loosened and tightened.

Grilling and Smoking Chicken

Chicken is one of my favorite meats to cook. It is low in fat, high in protein, and if

cooked correctly, it will definitely be a crowd pleaser. There are many different

recipes for grilling and smoking chicken, and I have included my two favorite

recipes below. I am known as The Smoker King, and I am the author and

Webmaster of “Outdoor Cooking: Barbeque, Sauces, Mops, Rubs,” so you can bet

that my favorite way to cook chicken is outdoors, on a grill or smoker.

The first recipe is one that I use when I cook chicken fajitas. The marinade gives a

tequila-lime twist to the chicken, which is great for Mexican-type dishes. The

second recipe is my take on the famous beer can chicken recipe. Through my

experience, I have found that placing the chicken on a beer can throne while it is

smoking produces a juicy, tender bird. Smoking chicken is one of my favorite ways

to cook chicken, and after you have tried this recipe, I believe that you will really like

smoking chicken too.

Grilled Tequila Lime Chicken


4-Chicken Breasts

2-Cups of Margarita Mix (I prefer Mr. and Mrs. T’s)

1/2-Cup Vinegar

1/2 Cup Olive Oil

1-Tbsp Onion Powder

1-Tbsp Garlic Powder

1-Tbsp Cajun Seasoning

Lemon Pepper

Option for a kicked up version: Add one shot of Tequila


1. Trim chicken breasts to remove fat

2. Using the flat side of a meat tenderizer, pound the each chicken breast until they

are about 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick.

3. Mix all ingredients into a bowl just big enough to hold the chicken breasts while

they are completely covered in the marinade.

4. Add chicken breasts, and refrigerate for 1/2 to 1 hour. The longer they stay in

the marinade, the more Tequila lime taste they will have.

5. Season both sides of the chicken with Lemon Pepper before grilling.

6. Grill over medium heat for about 3-5 minutes per side. Times may vary

depending on heat, just make sure that the meat is white throughout the breast,

and the juices run clear.

This is a great recipe for chicken fajitas.

Here is my recipe for Cajun smoked, beer-can chicken.

Injection Ingredients:

1. A 3 or 4 pound chicken

2. 1/2 cup melted butter (room temperature)

3. 2 tablespoons of Tony Chachere’s seasoning (more for a spicier chicken)

4. 1-teaspoon garlic powder

5. 1/2 cup vinegar

Rub Ingredients:

1. Olive oil

2. Tony Chachere’s seasoning.

Mop Ingredients:

1. Apple Cider

2. A Spray Bottle


1. A beer of your choice (1/2 full)

2. 3 cloves of garlic

3. About 3 tablespoons of chopped garlic


1. Whisk all injection ingredients together.

2. Using a kitchen syringe, inject the liquid into various spots on the chicken. Try to

be even as possible, injecting about 1/2 of the mixture into the breasts, and the

other 1/2 throughout the rest of the chicken.

3. Rub the chicken down with olive oil, and apply an even layer of Tony’s to the bird.

4. Drink half of the beer, widen the opening at the top of the can, then put the garlic

and onion in the can.

5. Place the bird on the can. It should sit up by itself.

6. Preheat your smoker to about 250 F degrees. I use hickory for chicken, charcoal

works well too.

7. Put the chicken on the smoker and spray the chicken with the apple cider about

every 30 minutes.

8. Smoke the chicken for 3-4 hours, or until the internal temperature of the thickest

meat reaches 180 F Degrees.

I hope you enjoy both recipes as much as I do. You can find many more at my

website listed below.

How To Build A Tiki Bar In 24 Hours

So you want to know how to build a tiki bar? Well building a tiki bar actually is not that hard if you follow some simple guidelines. In this Article I give you the basics to building your tiki bar within 24 hours. Here are the basics:

You want to build a tiki bar within 24 hours?

This really is not a hard task to achieve, you can go to your local home depot to get everything you need pretty much. You need to realize it’s very possible to build a professional Tiki Bar in only 24 hours. Want more advice on how to build a tiki bar? Well here are some basic supplies you need to build your tiki bar:

-You need a sturdy table for the bar; you can use any table or even make your own. Use your imagination here and remember you can cover the surface with a laminate, plywood or straw.

-Lots of straw, if you do not live near the coast this could be a little harder to find locally. You can check out local plant nurseries or even stores like Wal-Mart depending on the season. Another place to look is pool stores.

-The roof of the tiki hut can be made from large leaves or palm fronds if you can find them, and you can attach them to plywood. I advise you put together your tiki bar roof on the ground then attach it to the rest of the bar.

-Bamboo of course is something you need, whats a tiki bar without bamboo? You can find bamboo at most local plant nurseries.

-Be creative with your tiki bar design, be sure to use sand and sea shells if you’re going for the tropical look (almost all tiki bars have a tropical look.)

These are just some basic guidelines on how to build a tiki bar in 24 hours. I have a lot more information on my blog on building a tiki bar; you can check my bio box for the link. I hope this guide has helped you some, good luck!

Basketball Shooting Instruction Nobody Gave You!

Suggestions for improving your basketball shot. Not the usual kind of coaching, but you’ll find it’s the way of the great shooters.

Let me ask you some questions, and then I’ll respond. First remember that shooting is at a low ebb in this country, and we need to question all the coaching out there, including mine!


Do you Square Up? If you do and are not taking a two-handed shot, that’s your first mistake! The best shooters do not Square their bodies to the target; they have an Open Stance! Check it out. An open stance is more natural and athletic, plus alignment with the eye and target is easier the more open you are, and it’s more powerful because the body energy can drive the ball upward and forward, not just up. It’s like a boxer stands to throw jabs, open, jab arm forward. Try it and see how such a stance is strong and stable.

SET POINT (where the Release starts from):

Is the center of the ball in line with your eye, your ear, your shoulder, nose, other eye? For greatest shooting it’s best aligned with the shooting eye. Then you know where the target is and you can fire off your Release exactly on line. Direction is thus not as much a challenge.


As you bring the ball up to the Set Point, is the center of the ball in line with eye and basket a long time, or is it so aligned only at the last moment, or not at all? If the latter, accuracy is compromised.


Is there a flow (a one-piece action) from the setting to the release that helps you with accuracy, or are you hesitating before shooting (breaking the flow) or bringing the ball up off line?


How would you describe your release action: throw, flip, push, or catapult? Most people these days flip the ball, and I feel this is one of the main reasons no one can shoot any more. I recommend an upward pushing action with relaxed wrist and hand with a solid, connected Follow Through. That’s what our greatest shooters are doing. It defines them. Mediocre shooters throw or flip the ball, thus adding variables that are hard to control.

When you release the ball, is your arm action going to full extension at the same speed every time, or is the speed inconsistent or is the arm stopping short (called “short-arming”) or moving around or pulling back quickly? Great shooters go to the “end of their arm” with full extension every time at the same approx. speed and thus have reliability and predictability.


What kind of spin are you putting on the ball? Is it pure backspin, or is there some sidespin creeping in? Maybe it’s a dead ball, or all sidespin. If it’s not medium backspin, you will know you are messing things up with the wrist, hand or fingers. A “push and flop,” as I recommend, will give you beautiful medium backspin every time.


What do you do to control distance? Do you vary the Release? Or change leg action or the timing of when you release the ball? Or do you vary the angle or arch? I recommend the latter, because with a release action that’s the same speed and force every time, your only decision in the moment of Release is the angle, the trajectory. That’s an instinctive decision, not a thinking process. Shooting becomes less complicated.


I’ve been researching and writing about shooting for over 20 years. Almost every shooting coach I’m aware of (and regular coaches who attempt to teach shooting) teaches ~4-5 things that are not effective. Somehow in our history, coaches started teaching and demanding things that are not effective, not how our bodies are made. One of these is the first thing out of their mouths… SQUARE UP!

Squaring Up is appropriate… for two-handed shooting!!! It’s not appropriate for the one-handed shot of today! But coaches still say it. (A few have told me they mean “Face Up,” not “Square Up,” and an open stance is implied.)

The only line (make it a plane) that matters is the one from your eye through the hand and ball to the basket. If that’s achieved, direction is controlled and easy. If not, direction will always be a challenge.

Some of the other “Myths” of shooting I see include these:

o Flip your wrist

No, flipping puts control into small muscles.

Rather, use a pushing action with relaxed wrist and hand, and the benefit you get is a simple, effective and repeatable shot.

o Elbow under the ball

No, that prohibits the hand position from aligning on target.

Instead, focus on the hand, centering it on the eye-target line (and the elbow has to be out a bit to do that).

o Shoot at the top of the jump

Only if you are elevating over someone. It’s a great weapon if you can do it, but it’s extremely difficult, as all you have left for power are the smaller muscles of arm, wrist, hand & fingers. Much easier and more effective is shooting “on the way up!”

o Reach your hand in the Cookie Jar

No, if you have such an action, the wrist is engaged. Thus you would be flipping the wrist.

If wrist and hand are relaxed, they’ll hang down a bit but not be in a forced, downward position. One sign of a great shooter is the hand flopping in the Follow Through.

o The arm should form an “L” at the Set Point

No, that applies only to those strong enough to have ball above the eyes, near top of the head.

Younger kids have to have the ball below the eyes, where the arm forms a “V,” not an “L.”

Stronger players who have the ball above the head a couple inches or more have an extended “L,” not a true “L.”

o Cock the wrist and hand back such that there’s a reverse “C” formed

No, that encourages, even requires that you “un-cock” it as you release the ball, thus engaging those small muscles which are hard to control and repeat. Backspin is interfered with.

Instead, just let the hand fall back to approx. 50-75 degrees from vertical, from where you can push the ball upward and forward without engaging the “flippy” muscles.

Every one of the answers given above are what our greatest shooters do/did naturally: Chris Mullin, Steve Kerr, Diana Taurasi, Steve Nash, Sue Bird, even older “shooters” like George Gervin and Detlef Schrempf, and more recently, Stephen Curry, to name a few. My guess is that these players, as for me in my high school days, were self-taught. We didn’t have coaches harping on us to square up, flip the wrist, etc., etc., so we developed naturally to what works best. And we all found the same stuff, as will you with this simple coaching.


I say this in all my clinics. Don’t believe me! But also don’t dis-believe me! Check everything out with your own experience! That will tell you if it’s true or not. Not many people check out the myths; they just keep thinking they’re the truth and keep performing or teaching the same way… and the result is what you see: poor shooting everywhere!

The answers are very simple, and they lead to a way of shooting anyone can do well with Free Throws, Jumpers, Set Shots and 3’s, even runners and floaters. The elevated, athletic shots we see the more gifted players perform take more strength and coordination, and the best they get to is streaky shooting.

Scour my website for the articles, testimonials, video clips, etc., that support what I say. You CAN do this. Commit to it and keep things simple and you’ll become the best shooter on your block/team!

Tom Nordland, shooting coach

How to Disassemble a Pool Table

Disassembling a pool table can be rather easy, providing you have the right tools and manpower. The instructions listed here are for a standard wood frame home pool table with a slate bed and leather drop pockets. Coin operated tables and non slate tables have different instructions when disassembling.

Tools Needed: 9/16″ socket, socket wrench, Philips screwdriver. Marked sandwich baggies to place screws and bolts.


Rail Assembly: Contains the wooden rail, the cushion or bumpers to which the apron attaches to.

Bumpers: The rubber part of the rail. They are covered with felt.

Aprons: The wooded segments that attach to the rail assembly. Can be a permanent part of the rail assembly or can be screwed depending on manufacturer of table.

Felt: The cloth that covers the playing surface and the rail bumpers. Usually it is a 75% woolen 25% nylon blend.

Slate: The playing surface of the pool table. Usually comes in (3) pieces. Can either be wood backed or unbacked.

Frame: The base of the pool table which the slate sits on.

  1. First start off by detaching the pockets from the table itself. Usually the straps of the pockets are attached to the table itself with either screws, staples, nails or glue.
  2. Next using your 9/16″ socket and wrench; remove the rail bolts (12) located underneath each rail. Place the rail bolts in a marked baggie for storage.
  3. Take one section of the rail assembly (2 sides and top/bottom) and flip them over onto the covered bed of the pool table. Unscrew the pocket screws.
  4. Remove pockets from rail assembly and place to side.
  5. Place rails to the side. Some tables you will have to remove the aprons at this point.
  6. Remove felt from slate bed. The felt is usually either glued down or stapled to the wood backing of the slate. If it is stapled, remove each staple carefully, as not to rip the felt itself.
  7. Remove the slate screws and place in marked baggie. Sometimes all the slate screws will be filled in with either beeswax, Bondo or spackling putty. Carefully remove the product from each hole.
  8. Pull the slates apart and lift each one and place to the side.These are very heavy so please be careful.
  9. Disassemble the frame. Generally, most of the time if you are just moving the table a short distance all that will be required is removing the legs.
  10. Removed the bolt from each leg. Pick table up and remove legs and place to side.

Build Your Own Golf Ball Display

Build your own golf ball display with some basic power tools. You can build this 56 golf ball display with a drill, power saw, razor knife and three drill bits.

We will start with the tools required. The first being a power drill. 3/8 "chuck size either a corded drill or a cordless drill. The second tool you will need is a power saw. A 7 1/4" circular saw will do. Third you will need a sharp razor knife. Last you will need 3 drill bits. You will need a 1/8 "bit suitable for wood or metal, a 1/2" reduced shank bit suitable for wood or metal and a 7/8 "reduced shank bit suitable for metal.

Now we will move onto the material required for the display. You will need:
2 each 1 "X 4" X 48 "Pine, Oak, Poplar or wood of your chose
1 each 1/2 "X 48" wood dowel rod
1 each 1/8 "X 48" wood dowel rod
You can use the wood of your choice. Pine is easier to work with for a novice, but the dowel rods will probably oak at most home improvement stores so oak or poplar 1 X 4's will match the 1/2 "dowel rods better. While at the home improvement store you want to pick up some stain, polyurethane and sandpaper if you do not have these items in your shop.

Okay lets build this display. First we will start by ripping the 1 "X4" X 48 "boards into half with the power saw. You will have 4 pieces 1-11 / 16" X 48 ". The 1-11 / 16" dimension is about the same size of the diameter of a golf ball. Now we take the 4 pieces and cut into 8 twenty inch pieces. These pieces will be the shelves the golf balls rest on. Now we take the 1/2 "X48" dowel rod a cut two pieces 21 3/4 "long. These will be the supports for the shelves. Next we take the 1/8" dowel rod and cut 16 pieces 1-1 / 4 "long.

It easiest to cut the 1/8 "dowel rod with your sharp razor knife. Now we will drill the holes in the shelf boards for the supports and the golf balls. Take your 20" shelf boards and draw a light pencil line down the center of the board. Measure 13/16 "from the edge of the board to achieve this. Next from one end put a pencil mark at 1-1 / 8", 2-1 / 2 ", 5", 7-1 / 2 ", 10" , 12-1 / 2 ", 15", 17-1 / 2 "and 18-7 / 8". Put these pencil marks on the center line that you marked on the length of the boards. These are center marks that you are going to drill. Using the 1/2 "drill bit drill completely through all the shelf boards at the 1-1 / 8" mark and the 18-7 / 8 "mark. Next using the 7/8" bit we are going to drill for the golf ball rests. You are going to drill at the 2-1 / 2 ", 5", 7-1 / 2 ", 10", 12-1 / 2 ", 15" and 17-1 / 2 "marks.

Putting light pressure on the drill you only want to drill approximately 1/8 "deep or so to form a 7/8" round dimple in the wood for the ball to rest in. After all your dimples are drilled now would be a good time to stain your shelves and 1/2 "dowel rod. It is a lot easier unassembled. Now it is assembly time. Take your first shelf and insert 1 of the 1/2" dowel rods in each end where you drilled the 1/2 "hole through the shelf. Now take the second shelf and slide down the dowel rods until you have 2-1 / 4" between shelf 1 & 2. Repeat this step for the remaining shelves. When you reach the top you should have 8 shelves spaced evenly at 2-1 / 4 ". The final step. Lay the assembled display face down on a table with the sawed edge up. Using the 1/8" bit drill through the shelf into the 1/2 "dowel rod. You want to drill 1-3 / 8". You can put a piece of masking tape on your drill bit 1-3 / 8 "up ​​from the tip to drill uniform depths. Now that you have all 16 holes drilled take the 1/8" dowel rod pieces you cut 1-1 / 4 "long and insert them into the 1/8" holes you just drilled. Put a little wood glue on the rods push them in until even with the shelf. It may take a few light taps with a hammer. You are done with assembly. Now you can put 1 or 2 coats of polyurethane on and enjoy your project.

More About MEAN Stack You Want to Know!

A latest technology to the old-fashioned LAMP/WAMP stack for building professional websites and real-time applications is MEAN (MongoDB, Express, AngularJS, Node.js) stack, which is an open-source software.

MEAN is nothing but a rearrangement of code and technology upgrades switching the base platform from Linux OS to a JavaScript run-time which brings Node.js. Node.js allows to work on Windows as well as Linux. It acts as a web server which replaces Apache in LAMP stack. It allows the developer to deploy the application directly to the server instead of deploying to a stand-alone server. Deployment is easier and simpler as such the required version of the web server is clearly defined along with the rest of run-time dependencies. In short, Node.js is far more than a simple server.

Compared to traditional web-serving techniques where each connection (request) generate a new thread, taking up system RAM and eventually maxing-out at the amount of RAM available, Node.js operates on a single-thread, using non-blocking I/O calls, allowing it to support tens of thousands of concurrent connections (held in the event loop). Additionally, it is all based on the open web stack (HTML,CSS and JS) running over the standard port 80. In simple, it is really scalable.

It is very important to think that Node.js is especially suited for applications that require persistent connection from the browser back to the server such as chat programs, interactive games, real-time applications etc. If one is just building an application that does not necessarily need user/server COMMUNICATION, developing with other frameworks would be just fine and will take much less time. Node.js is well suited for applications that have a lot of concurrent connections and each request only needs very few CPU cycles, because the event loop (with all the other clients) is blocked during execution of a function.

Instead of writing more SQL commands, MongoDB gives more time writing map/reduce functions in JavaScript. MongoDB, a NoSQL which is schemaless, document oriented persistence represents a fundamental shift in steadfastness strategy. It will also reduce the complexity of transformation logic, because MongoDB release JavaScript Object Notation (JSON) natively. Consequently, writing RESTful web services is easier than ever.

But the biggest shift from LAMP to MEAN is the move from traditional server-side page generation to a client-side single-page application (SPA) orientation. It runs JavaScript, so you can use the same language on server and client, and even share some code between them (e.g. for form validation, or to render views at either end.)

With Express, you can still handle server-side routing and page generation, but the emphasis is now on client-side views, courtesy of AngularJS. This change involves more than simply shifting your Model-View-Controller (MVC) artifacts from the server to the client. And perhaps most important, you’ll move from a page-centric view of your application to one that is component-oriented. MEAN stack isn’t mobile-centric. AngularJS runs equally well on desktops and laptops, smartphones and tablets, and even smart TVs. And as the MEAN stack is growing in adoption, a variety of testing strategies have developed and available. With world-class testing frameworks such as MochaJS, JasmineJS, and KarmaJS, you can write thorough, comprehensive test suites for your MEAN app.

The single-threaded event-driven system is fast and simple, compared to traditional Java or ROR frameworks, when handling lots of requests at once. Knowing more about MEAN helps you to play around with the technology!

Lionel Model Train Sets – A Guide For Set Up

Following are some tips and guidelines for the maintenance and cleaning of your model trains. Whether your trains are Lionel or another manufacturer, any set benefits from regular maintenance to keep it running smoothly.

Lionel locomotives are designed in such a way that checks can be done by removing the cover. Remove the screw that is located under the smoke stack in order to remove the cover. Spread the diesel engine's body at the sides until the pins release and pull upward gently. Then turn the engine upside down to access the wheels. Pare off any layers of dirt and grime with an X-acto knife. Finish by applying an eraser to the model's wheels which will remove the rest of the debris.

Locomotives also require regular oiling of the moving parts to keep them working smoothly. Your owner's manual will have instructions for applying the oil as well as the best oil to use. Take care that the oil does not drip onto the rails because oil can interfere with the electrical conductivity of the set and keep your train from functioning properly. A thin oil, such as a 3-in-1, is recommended.

Cleaning and maintenance should also be done on the commutator ad the brushes. Dirt can build up on these parts which will prevent the motor from getting electrical power. If left unattended, the locomotive will fail to work. Cleaning need be performed only about once a year, however. One technique for keeping the commutators clean is to run the locomotive slowly without the body. Apply Rail-Zip cleaner to a clean rag and apply the rag to the commutator while it spins. You will also need to clean the brushes. You can purchase television tuner cleaner from most electronics stores and use it to spray the brushes. Let the cleaning solution drip off and then dry the area by wiping with a clean rag. Put the body back on after you have cleaned it.

You should also perform maintenance on the wheels of the freight cars. Clean wheels are necessary for any Lionel model train set to run smoothly. One way to clean the wheels is to mount a straight section of track on an 18-inch 2×4 board. Then, cover the heads of the rails with a rag or paper towel and slowly drip rubbing alcohol onto it. Place a few small drops of Goo-Gone on the rails prior to running the cars. Run the locomotive over the rails, back and forth until the wheels appear clean and glossy.

It is said that Lionel trains are built to last. Customers report some of the highest satisfaction ratings in the industry. However, regular maintenance is important for any set to keep it functioning smoothly. Some regular maintenance can keep your train set running properly for years!

ARC of Understanding

In relationship we all make mistakes and sometimes we are insensitive to the needs of others, especially those very close to us All this leads to disappointments and resentments. The answer to handling disappointments is understanding.

Relationships do not come about because people are perfect. They come because of understanding.

There is more gratification in being a caring person that in just being a nice person. A caring attitude builds goodwill which is best kind of insurance that a person can have and it does not cost a thing.

Being understanding is far more important than money and the best way to be understood is to be understanding. And the basis of real communication is also to be understanding.

Practice Generosity: – It is a sign of emotional maturity. Being generous is being thoughtful and considerate without being asked. Generous people experience the richness of life which a selfish person can not even dream of. Be Considerate, Selfishness bring it's own revenge. Be sensitive to other people's feelings.

Kindness: – Kindness is language the deaf can hear and the blind can see. It is better to treat a friend with kindness while he is living that displaying flowers on his grave when he is dead.

Act of kindness make person feel good regardless of whether he is doing it or it is done to him. Kind words never hurts tongue.

(Scientologist – Sir L. Ron Hubbard said – Affinity, Reality, Trust, Faith, Elegance & communication are the basic components of understanding. And Understanding makes people coexists, cooperate, correlate. Called as ARC of Understanding.)

People who are true friend in the real sense help one another, but these are not favors. they are acts incidental to friendship and if that do not help they'd be failing in their relationship.

RELATION & LOVE just do not happen, they take time to build they are built on kindness, understanding & self-Sacrifice, not on jealousy, selfishness, puffed up egos, and rude behavior.

Relationship never be taken for granted. Once relationships are established, they need to be nurtured constantly. Nobody is perfect. Expecting perfection is setting yourself for disappointment.

SYMPATHY & EMPATHY: – well Lets know the difference: Sympathy means "I Understand what & how you feel. EMPATHY is" I feel what and how you feel ".

Proper Ground Blind Placement

Do you really know where and how to set up a ground blind? When preparing for your hunt, there are a lot of things that need to be done before setting out in the woods, securing a good location for a deer stand is one of those. Picking the wrong location can leave you empty-handed at the end of season. Learn how to pick a perfect hunting location by following these steps.

First, you will need to scout an area for deer before choosing a location for your blind. Choose a well concealed or heavily wooded area with water and / or a food source (such as acorn trees, rye grass, soybeans, oats, corn feeders etc) available. Look for deer trails, tracks and rubbings on trees. You can begin your scouting process for deer months to a year in advance depending on how detailed you want to get.

Second, choose an area to locate your ground blind after you have found all the signs you where looking for. Make sure you are able to reach the area without making a lot of noise and that it is easily accessible. Many times you will arrive at the stand in the dark, the deer might still be bedded down and you do not want to scare them off and risk the chance of losing that good buck.

Third, if you have the means, plant a food plot in the summer months of May and June. Planting a food plot of corn, soybeans or field peas will invite deer to keep coming back for the food during the year. In the winter you can plant rye grass in the plot to keep the game interested in the area. Have the plot clearly visible from your deer blind, but make sure the stand is not visible to the passing deer. If you choose not to plant a food plot, you may need to set up a feeder and the most common feed slung from these is corn. If you have other wildlife on the lease (ie cows, sheep, goats), you will need to build a feeder pen in order to keep these unwanted animals from getting to your corn and knocking your feeder over. The feeder pen should be big enough so the deer has plenty of room to move around and not feel crowded, they will never jump in if they feel they do not have enough room to maneuver. I use t-post and barbwire to make my feeder pens but you can also use cattle panels or similar materials.

Lastly, place your stand 10 to 30 feet away from you food source or trail so you have a good view of your hunting spot and so you're not crowding the deer's "personal space" so to speak. You want the deer to come in and eat and never know you are there, if you're too close, they may hear you draw back on your bow or smell you before you get the shot off. Make sure there are no limbs or brush to obstruct your vision or shot in any direction. Place the ground blind in your desired location as early as possible in the season so the deer can get used to having it there. After awhile, the deer will consider it a permanent fixture and you will have a better edge as long as you remain quiet and they do not catch your scent. Now that you are armed with all this knowledge, you can set out, set up correctly and prepare for the hunt of your life. The proper ground With blind, hunting equipment , and maybe a little target practice, nothing will stand in your way of harvesting mature buck That we 've all waiting 's are On to the find.

Happy Hunting!

How to Clear Clogged Drain Pipes

Congested drains can be a big headache for homeowners. Unfortunately, this is an issue that you will surely experience as these fixtures start to deteriorate. It is possible to perform minor repairs. Otherwise, call an expert plumber if the scope of work is too difficult. Your first move is to find out the possible probable cause of the congestion. This will allow you to think of cost-effective solutions and save resources as well as time.

You can buy drain cleaners but it is practical to choose preventive measures first. Congestion mat arise if concentrated liquid substances are poured down the drain. Some of these are lubricants, used paint and hot wax which do not melt quickly. Said substances mount up at the edges of pipes causing debris to stick to it. Refrain from throwing solid materials in the drain. Falling hair, food crumbs and paper are also responsible for blocking sewages.

Be sure that you have a trash can and drain strainer in the bathroom to prevent objects from being washed to the open drain. Do not forget to clean the filter regularly because blocking can lead to more serious problems. Plumbing maintenance is also important frequently to help you stay away from these issues. It is advisable to pour boiling water to break up all stubborn particles. Follow this up with cold water to wash away the rest of the debris.

Check structural defects within your plumbing system. These are caused by the natural movement of the ground, substandard or leaking pipes, dropping of land level, growth of tree roots, and disintegration of ditches. These can hamper water flow and lead to total obstruction. Contact a capable plumber right away once these problems begin to come out.

The best thing to do is to check the litter that goes down the drainage structure often. Find time to scour kitchen utensils so food leftovers can be separated and thrown to the trash bin. Use the right type of detergent that can eliminate grease that builds up when you cook food. Do not throw this used oil directly to the kitchen sink. Just put this into a separate container and let it cool down before putting it away. Do not let this jam to turn into an unmanageable problem. Fix everything immediately so you will not have to call the problem and spend money. Nonetheless, the plumbing expert is the best person to call if things go out of hand.