Sliding Glass Door Security Issues

Houses that have glass sliding doors are considered to be more vulnerable to attacks from intruders. While typical doors can be made safe by using deadbolts, chains, latches and other security measures, the same cannot be done for sliding glass doors. Therefore, security for buildings that use sliding glass doors becomes a concern. Sliding glass doors are used in residential and commercial buildings. They provide a certain appeal to the eye, nevertheless ensuring the security of these glass sliding doors is an issue. Since these doors cannot be secured in a typical fashion, it tends to present opportunities for thieves and burglars to gain entry into the house.

Currently there are several security gadgets, which are empowering as issues of security go. Security bars for sliding glass doors is a viable option. The door security bar is a rod like device that has a hinge in the shape of a V at one end and this attached to the doorknob. The security bar has two ends of which, one end is attached to the sliding door frame using screws. The other end of the security bar is left hanging as it is supposed to meet the floor. The security bar has to be raised until it is a good fit with the door. This will ensure that outsiders will not be able to open the door. Another efficient way by which one can make certain of sliding door security is to place the wooden dowel along the base track. This runs between the glass door and its frame.

Even though a track grip may be small it can be useful in ensuring that the sliding glass doors remain secure. Using a thumbscrew, latch or key, you can place a track grip along the track.

While the above-mentioned measures are good for ensuring that the sliding doors are secure from being opened, there is another important aspect that needs to be addressed. The glass doors can be lifted from their tracks. Hardware stores provide options for those looking to encounter the issue of the doors being lifted. These are anti- lift products. The security pin is one such product. It extends along the door frames. Screw heads which can be installed at the top portion of a door frame could prevent door lifting. Also, you can substitute ordinary glass with laminated or tempered glass.

This can be done with a little effort on your part. Ensuring the security of sliding doors is not expensive and you can access material on the various options available in the market for this. If you are considering installing a sliding glass door, be well informed on aspects of security.

Tips on Church Banner Making: How to Hang the Banner

In this article, I will share with you two common ways to hang the banners. 1) For wall hanging: Use dowel with finials and rope with tassels. 2) For free standing pole in a base: Use horizontal and vertical dowels with finials, a weighted base and a center PVC T-joint.

1) For wall hanging: First, ropes and tassels are a nice elegant touch to your finished banner. You can find twisted satin rope, metallic ropes or upholstery ropes online or in your local fabric or drapery stores. Before cutting the rope always be prepared to wrap a small piece of tape on the rope where you want to cut it. Cut in the middle of the taped section leaving tape on both cut ends so that neither end will unravel. You can also use decorative ropes to hang on the sides and/or swag over the top of your banner just for aesthetic purposes. This article explains how you can use the ropes as one way to hang the banner on a wall.

You will need a wooden dowel cut to the length you desire to fit the width of your banner and extend a couple inches on either side. This is to your taste. A wooden closet rod will work or a smaller dowel. PVC tubing or metal rods can work as well. If you are draping fabric on the sides of the banner, you will want to add enough length to the horizontal dowel to allow for the draping on either side. The diameter of the dowel also depends on the size of your top casing. Generally, the larger the banner, the larger the diameter of the dowel. I also like to add screw-in finials on the cut ends of the dowel to give it a finished touch. Finials are usually made of wood and come in different sizes. You can order them online from specialized wood websites or sometimes find them in your local home improvement store. Choose a finial that is appropriately sized to fit your dowel. If unfinished wooden finials, you can spray paint them.

The next step involves using an electric drill. Use a drill bit size that will accommodate the size of the rope you are using. Carefully drill a hole through your dowel on the right and left sides that extend beyond the banner. Always measure and mark where you plan to drill. Remove the banner before you drill the holes. You may also want to use sand paper to smooth out any roughness left after drilling. Now slide your banner onto the dowel. The drilled holes should be at least 1 inch away from each edge of your banner. Work your rope up through one hole; then over the top and finally down through the other hole. The taped cut part of the rope helps to feed it through the holes… like a shoe lace. Knot the rope at either side just under the dowel so that the rope cannot slip up through the hole. The rope over the top does not need much slack but can now be used to hang the banner… for example over a hook or ornamental knob. The unfinished ends of the rope can either be cut short near the knots or left long and tassels added to the cut ends. We can discuss an easy way to make tassels in another article.

2) For free standing hanging: The second easy method of hanging a banner is to use a horizontal dowel, vertical dowel, weighted flag base and a PVC T-joint. PVC T-joints can be found in the plumbing section of your local home improvement store. The T-joint should be able to slide onto your top dowel. So you may want to have the dowel with you to find the right size T-joint. If the closest size T-joint is still too loose, there is a remedy.

TIP: I wrap masking tape around the center of the dowel where the T-joint will be secured. The tape will create a snug fit. Another way is to drill holes in the T-joint and fasten the joint with screws to your dowel.

Next, be sure to measure the dowel to find the exact center for the joint so the banner will hang level. Before sliding the dowel into the top casing of your banner, you will need to measure the width of the banner to find the center and carefully cut an opening into the back top side of the banner casing or back lining (if no sewn-in casing). The opening should only be large enough to accommodate the T-joint so that the bottom of the “T” can protrude out of the opening. This bottom “T” part of the PVC joint is where you will insert a vertical pole to support holding the banner. So now slide the top horizontal dowel with the T-joint secured into the top casing of your banner, or between the back lining and front of the banner. A vertical dowel rod will need to fit into the bottom of the “T” and then into a weighted flag base or some other constructed base. Flag bases can be purchased from flag stores.

TIP: If your banner has a top casing and the T-joint cannot fit through the casing; try first sliding the dowel to the center cut opening WITHOUT the T-joint attached. At the center opening, now place the T-joint in the cut opening and continue sliding the dowel through the joint and through the other half of the casing. Add your finials on the dowel ends for a finished appearance.

These are two ways to hang a church banner, but by no means exclusive ways. The next article will share how to make easy and beautiful tassels.

Stacked Income – How to Stack Your Income Online

Internet marketing is not new and many people are jumping on the bandwagon more and more each and every day. One way to earn income is to stack your income online.

So exactly what is stacked income?

Stacked income can be compared to a simple business model where you have one product or business that services the needs of your customers. What you are doing is starting a business make it very successful and then you can diversify your needs into another area.

People that can only offer one product online will find it very hard to make a continuous income. If a person were however to branch themselves out and offer their clients more products then they could in fact stack their income from the same customer.

A good model to look at is computer games or console games. Let’s say you wanted to start an online store for computer games and console games. What you would do is start your business and make it as profitable as possible. You only offer 1 product to your client as you are just starting out and want to make their experience the best experience they have ever seen. With games you will continually make income as new games come out each and every month.

Once you have completed your successful business model for games you would then start to offer your clients more products for the games such as controllers and memory cards. Once you offer another product you want to make sure that you have more and more products for your clients to purchase. What you are essentially doing is making more money from your current clients without the extra work involved.

Applying the stacked income method is not that hard. The principle is actually very simple. You want to start your business slowly offering your clients one product that you know has many side products or add-ons that can supplement your income. Where most people fail with this business model is that they actually chose the wrong product and diversify themselves with a wide range of products that have no up sale value.

The main thing to remember is that you want your first business model to be successful. If you are not making a steady income with your current product then it is going to be very difficult to offer your current clients add-ons. To make the stacked income business model work make sure your initial product is very profitable at its maximum level and then branch yourself out to offer more and more products.

Do I Need a Website For My Business?

If you are considering building a website for your business, ask yourself why do you need one? We think the most pertinent reasons for why are as follows:

  • I want my businesses running costs to be as little as possible

Using the Internet and a website as an operating platform can leave you with truly tiny running costs compared to your competition. It is now possible for some businesses to be entirely virtual or extremely close to it. All you really need is a PC and a place to run it from. Even for what are considered smoke stack or old industries it is now possible to be almost 100% virtual. Take estate agencies as a case in point, do they need high street offices? Absolutely not, it is possible to conduct these kind of businesses, and many many more who don’t even realise it yet, entirely online. In the process massive cost savings can be achieved, making your business truly competitive

  • I want my business to reach it’s maximum potential audience?

The audience you can reach with a website is truly enormous, it really is the world. The only limitation is how can you use your business to supply that market. The Internet and a website will enable your reach. If you already know how you can supply that market, you really are well on your way to exploiting the most the Internet can provide.

  • I want my business to be ready for now and the future

Staying ahead is critical for any business and without a website as a platform to access the latest technology, this could prove truly fatal. Just consider the evolution in technology over say the last two years. Communication is changing radically, virtually all mobiles can now access the Internet. There is now not a single piece of modern communication technology that does not interact with the net or need it as an essential to function. Now consider how people and businesses communicate with each other across the net.

Heard of LinkedIn, Alibaba, Twitter, Facebook, Mixx, Redd it? If you haven’t I suggest you do some research now. The list goes on and on. Now run them through a search engine, see how many businesses have Twitter pages, Facebook pages, LinkedIn pages, and Alibaba pages. Still think you can afford not be there with your web presence? A website connecting to these social hubs is the only way to extract the most from them. If you need more evidence on how these social networking platforms are for right now and tomorrow, consider how they are affecting the recruitment industry. Look at all those employees marketing themselves on LinkedIn. Now think how many businesses really need a recruitment consultant if they know how to use LinkedIn and are properly connected to it through their website.

OK still not convinced? Think about this then? Look at how other businesses communicate with their customers across those platforms, telling them about new offers, products and savings they can make. Now factor in the ingredient that all that advertising and exposure was free and went global at the click of a button. Still not convinced?

Ok, let’s take the most stoic, technologically resistant business in the UK, no offence intended here, but let’s say it’s a small engineering business making fasteners and struggling to access global markets. Now lets build them a website with a store and install a payment engine, hook it in to every associated online social network, and give it exposure to 4 billion customers letting them know that UK quality is the best quality. You know that business it going to start taking orders. That’s a fact. If you don’t believe us, log onto Alibaba and have a look at all those other companies doing just that. Even with a tiny budget, you can be there with them and in places on the Internet that they haven’t heard of yet. It’s possible.

There is absolutely a social hub out there for your business and market niche, and they are holding your customers in a pool ready for you to access them. Now try and access them without a website.

  • I want my business to be paid immediately

Tired of hearing, “the cheques in the post”, with a website you can collect all your payments online and know their there, safe and secure. You can do this without a merchant account and any credit checks. With a website it’s possible to take payments from anywhere in the world, instantly.

In conclusion having a web presence these days is truly an essential part of any businesses trading and marketing strategy. The way it’s used is the key ingredient for success. A web presence can make you competitive, punch above you weight and deliver a hoard of customers battering down your door for more.

Cybex Arc Trainer 750A Report

If you wish to concentrate your workout at the lower portion of the body, the Cybex Arc Trainer 750A is what you require. The equipment has all the functionality of a Cybex Total Body Arc Trainer with no arm movement, thus it provides total freedom and flexibility for the bottom body.

You will enjoy the many features and benefits provided by the device:

  1. It is load-dependent. This means that it will not matter how much you weigh, everyone who decides to use the Cybex Arc Trainer 750A would experience the same outcome as long as you select exactly the same workout level, you will receive the same results.
  2. It has a reverse arc motion. It is pre-loaded with a unique stride technology that ensures the toe on no account goes behind the knee and so avoiding any stress on the knee joints. Due to reverse arc motion the legs travel within the pathway that’s biomechanically correct; making sure that stress is evenly distributed between the hip and knees.
  3. Targets the muscle specifically. Work on specific muscle groups with the wide range of resistance and inclines.
  4. Three positions with three important exercise zones. With these 3 different zones you get ultimate variety. Achieve “glide” actions whenever you set the machine during the low position; “stride” is achieved when the equipment is at medium position and “climb” is achieved when the equipment is during the high position.
  5. Various programs. Adjust your workout for a particular need. You can find 8 Preset, 9 Custom, 2 Advanced and 1 User selectable Heart Rate control that you could select from. You can do many different types of outdoor workout inside your house. Climb uphill and undergo adaptive power exercise; the choice is yours.
  6. Various colors. You no longer have to worry about getting the standard silver and gray workout equipment. The Cybex Arc Trainer 750A can be chosen in 5 standard colors and over 180 custom colors so that the equipment can match your room plus your home. There is no other machine that can give you this option.

A Glossary of Archery Terms A to Z

Armguard: A leather pad worn on the inside of the forearm of the bow hand to protect the arm from the slap of the bow string.

Arrow Plate: An inlay just above the handle on the side of the bow where the arrow passes as it leaves the bow.

Ascharm’ A cabinet in which Bows, arrows, and archery tackle are stored.

Back: The surface of the bow farthest from the archer when the bow is held in the shooting position.

Backing: Various materials including: fibre glass, cellulose products, raw hide, etc. glued to the back of the bow to improve its cast.

Backed Boiv: A bow to which a backing has been glued.

Barb: A projection on a hunting head which prevents its easy withdrawal.

Barreled Arrow: An arrow whose shaft is tapered from the middle toward each end and having its greatest cross-sectional area in the middle of the shaft.

Boss or Bast: The twisted and coiled straw back of a target to which the face is attached.

Bow Stave: A billet of wood from which a bow is to be manufactured.

Bowyer: A maker of bows.

Brace: To string the bow.

Belly: The belly of the bow is the side that you see when you hold the bow in shooting position.

Bend: The act of bracing or placing the string in the bow nocks.

Bobtailed Arrow: An arrow that has its greatest cross section at the pyle and tapers toward the nock.

Bodkin: A three bladed broadhead arrow.

Broadhead: A flat triangular shaped hunting head made of steel.

Butt: A backstop to which faces are attached, such as bales of straw.

Carriage Bow: A bow that has its two limbs joined under the handle in a ferrule. It can be disjointed to permit easy transportation. (Takedown).

Cast: The inherent ability of a bow to propel an arrow.

Chested Arrow: An arrow that has its greatest cross-section toward the nock and tapers from this point toward both the nock and pyle.

Chrysal: A compression failure i.e., a fracture of the fibres usually appearing as a line across the belly of the bow.

Clout Target: The standard four foot target enlarged twelve times and laid out in a horizontal position on the ground.

Cock Feather: The feather on the arrow which is at right angles to the nock. Usually the odd colored feather.

Crest: Colored bands of varying width and spacing, painted on the arrow for identification purposes.

Crossbow: A short bow set crosswise on a stock, drawn by mechanical means, and discharging a dart by trigger release.

Cross Wind: A wind blowing across the target.

Curl: A swirl in the grain of a bow stave.

Down Wind: A wind blowing toward the target.

Draw: The act of pulling the bow string the full length of the arrow.

Drawing Fingers: The first three fingers of the hand used in pulling the string.

Drawing Weight: The force in pounds required to bring a bow to full draw.

Drift: The sidewise movement of the arrow as it travels toward the target due to a cross wind.

End: A unit number of arrows used in scoring. In target com¬petition six arrows constitute an end.

Eye-‘ The loop or loops in a bow string.

Field Captain: The official in charge of a tournament.

Finger Tips: Leather finger stalls used to protect the tips of the three shooting fingers.

Fistmele: The distance from the base of the clenched hand to the tip of the extended thumb. Used as a measure of the proper distance from the handle to the string when a flat

bow is braced or strung.

Fletch: Placing the feathers on an arrow.

Fletcher: A manufacturer of arrows. Arrow maker.

Fletching: The feathers which guide the arrow in flight.

Flight Arrow: A long, light arrow with very small fletching or vanes. Used in distance shooting.

Flirt: A jerky or jumping movement of an arrow from its theoretical flight line.

Follow the String: A bow that has taken a permanent set in the drawing direction.

Floo Floo: An arrow used in wing shooting. It is generally fletched with a complete spiral. The size of the fletching is such that the flight distance is short.

Footing: A hardwood splice at the pyle end of a wooden shafted arrow.

Gold: The bulls-eye in the regulation four foot circular target. A circle nine and three-fifths inches in diameter.

Grip: The part of the bow held in the shooting hand.

Hen Feathers: The two feathers, generally of the same color,which are not at a right angle to the arrow nock.

High Braced: When the fistmele distance exceeds seven inches.It is better to high brace a bow than to low brace one.

Hold: The pause at full draw position prior to release of the arrow.

Home: When the arrow is fully drawn with the pyle even with the back of the bow it is said to be “home”.

Horns: Tips of the bow made from animal horn in which the bow string nock is cut.

Jointed Bows: Same as a carriage bow.

Kick: A jar which is felt when a bow is shot. Generally due to unevenly tillered bow limbs.

Lady Paramount: A lady assistant to the field captain. In charge of the women’s shooting line or division in a tournament.

Laminated Bow: A bow that is built up in layers. It may consist of different kinds of wood, wood and metal, wood and

fibre glass, etc.

Limb: Half of the bow. From the handle or grip to the tip.Upper and lower limbs.

Loose: The act of shooting. Letting the drawn bow string slip

from the shooting fingers.

National Archery Association. (NAA): National Association of Target Archers.

National Field Archery Association. (NFAA): National Asso¬ciation of Field Archers.

Nocks: The grooves at the tips of the limbs of a bow into which the bow string is fitted, also the slot at the feathered end of an arrow.

Nocking Point: The point on the bow string where the arrow nock rests.

Overbowed: A bow with a drawing weight in excess of that which the archer can shoot properly.

Overdraw: To draw the bow beyond the arrow length for which the bow is designed.

Overstrung: When the fistmele is exceeded by the use of too short a bow string.

Pair: Two arrows and a spare, also three feathers.

Pennant: A small flag with the fly longer than the hoist. Placed at the line of targets on a staff to indicate the direction and velocity of the wind at the targets.

Petticoat: The border outside of the last or white ring of the target.It has no scoring value.

Pyle: The metal tip attached to the head of the arrow shaft,the point of the arrow. Anglo-Saxon (pil) meaning dart,also spelled pile.

Pin: A very small knot in bow woods, especially yew or osage.

Pinch: To crush the fibres of the bow by compression. See Chrysal.

Pinch: To squeeze the arrow between the drawing fingers.

Pin Hole: The center of the gold of the target, i.e., dead center.

Point Blank: The act of aiming directly at the target.

Point of Aim: An object at which an archer aims by sighting over the tip of the arrow.

Quiver: A container for arrows. Shape, size and materials vary.They may be carried at the waist, over the shoulder, on the bow, or on the bow arm.

Quiver, Ground: In the simplest form, a metal rod approximately 18 inches long, pointed at one end and a loop formed at right angles to the stem at the other end. Inserted

in the ground, arrows may be dropped through the loop and withdrawn one at a time.

Range: The terrain used in archery competitions. Also called a Field Course.

Recurved Bow: A bow that is bent back from a straight line at the ends of the limbs.

Reflexed Bow: Unstrung and held in a shooting position, the limbs of the bow curve away from the archer.

Release: Same as Loose.

Round: A fixed number of shots at a given distance or set of distances.

Rover: An archer who engages in field shooting. See Roving.

Roving: Shooting over fields and woodlands at natural targets.

Run: When a single one of the strands which make up a bow string frays, stretches, or breaks, the string is said to have a run.

Sap Wood: The wood immediately underneath the bark.

Self: Used in reference to a bow or an arrow made from a single piece of wood, i.e., self bow, self arrow.

Serving: The winding or wrapping around the bow string at the nocking points to protect the bow string from wear.

Shaft: The body or main section of the arrow. The term “feathered shaft” is frequently used in print to designate an arrow.

Shaftment: That section of the shaft to which the feathers are attached.

Shake: A longitudinal crack in a bow stave.

Shooting Glove: A three fingered glove used to protect the shooting fingers.

Shooting Tab: A flat piece of leather designed to be worn on the shooting fingers for protection.

Spiral: The curved position in which the feathers are attached to the arrow shaft.

Spine: The quality of resiliency in an arrow which permits it to bend as it passes the bow in flight and then recover its original shape.

Stacked Bow-‘ A bow with an oval cross section. One in which the thickness of the limbs is little greater than the width.

Steele: Same as shaft.

Tab: See shooting tab.

Tackle: The equipment of an archer: bow, arrows, quiver, tabs,strings, etc.

Takedown: See Carriage Bow.

Tiller: Shaping the bow to proper curvature. To tiller a bow.

Toxophilite: One fond of, or devoted to, archery. Derived from the Greek toxen meaning bow and philos meaning loving.

Turn: A term used to describe a bow that has a twist to right

or left of the string. Underboived: A bow having too little drawing weight for the

archer.

Unit: Fourteen targets of a field roving course.

Upshot: The last shot in an archery contest.

Vane: The web or flat expanded part of a feather. The flat extended plastic surfaces attached to a shaft to serve as fletching.

Wand: A wooden stick two inches wide, standing upright in the ground. Six feet in height. Used as a mark at which to shoot.

Weight: The weight in grains of an arrow. See also Drawing Weight.

Whip Ended: A bow which has limbs that are too weak at the tips.

Whipping: See Serving.

Sinus Drainage Bad Breath

Cleanliness, perfection, and fragrance are the embodiment of a modern, civilized person. Bad breath – or halitosis, in medical terminology – can hinder that image you are trying to project. Not only that, but it can also seriously hamper you from forming social relations with other individuals as you might be too embarrassed to talk to anyone or others are turned off by the offensive odor.

How to solve this problem?

Well, the only way to really solve this problem is to identify the cause. There are many possible causes of bad breath from the foods that you eat to improper oral hygiene (or lack thereof) and certain underlying medical conditions, such as diabetes, periodontal disease (gum disease), among others.

But perhaps second only to foods and hygiene, the most common factor associated with bad breath is the sinus drainage. Experts say that 85 to 90% of people with bad breath have this stench coming from their mouths. Rarely do you see cases where bad breath comes out of the nose. When they do, this condition is actually caused by sinus drainage bad breath.

What is Sinus Drainage Bad Breath?

Sinus drainage bad breath is little more than a symptom of sinusitis, a condition where in the sinuses become infected or inflamed. It can be due to a viral infection, as in the case of colds, or to allergens, as in the case of allergies. Sometimes, sinusitis may even be related to asthma attacks. Whatever the cause, sinusitis more often than not leads to sinus drainage bad breath.

How Sinus Drainage Bad Breath Occurs

Whenever a person gets sinusitis, the mucus lining of the sinuses become irritated and start to produce excessive amounts of mucus. A normal person regularly produces mucus to keep the nasal passages clean and clear. However, when these mucus linings are irritated, they go on overdrive and produce too much mucus, causing a common sinusitis symptom called postnasal drip, which in turn could lead to sinus drainage bad breath.

Furthermore, the infection causing sinusitis may also cause inflammation of the nasal passages. These nasal passages connect with the nose through your sinuses to let air into the lungs. When these nasal passages are inflamed, the channel is narrowed as a result of congestion, thus adding to the whole problem by blocking the normal drainage of mucus. As a result, the mucus gets trapped within these nasal passages and starts to attract bacteria, which thrive on dark, damp places.

These bacteria will proliferate and excrete waste products that contain noxious sulfur compounds causing sinus drainage bad breath.

Treatment

In order to treat sinus drainage bad breath, you may consider medications usually taken to treat the symptoms of sinusitis. Over the counter nasal sprays, antihistamines, and decongestants work by relieving inflammation and congestion and drying excess mucus.

The Do's and Don'ts of Clogged Drains

Do you hate dealing with those nagging clogged drains? Well there is usually a simple answer to fix the problem. Some clogged drain only need to have the drain trap removed and cleaned of soap and hair. Others are going to require different measures stronger than just cleaning. Often times an item can be found at your local hardware store that will assist you in fighting even the toughest of clogged drain. Commercial drain cleaners are sold in stores in many different forms. You can find them in liquid, granular, or pressurized. Granular relies on lye to dissolve the clog, liquid uses lye and other chemicals and pressurized cleaners uses chlorofluorocarbon propellant and pressure to remove the clog.

Do's

* Clean the drain traps regularly.

* Treating the drain as soon as it starts to slow drain.

* Pour boiling water down drain that may be running slow due to grease build-up. Followed up by pouring some baking soda in the drain and flushing it with more hot water.

* Have a plunger handy for a quick need.

* Place a plug or cover over the overflow when using the plunger for maximum pressure and suction effect.

* When the simple steps have not proven to remove the clog you may want to try a commercial drain cleaner.

* When you use the granular drain cleaner remove any standing water. It is not necessary to remove water when using liquid drain cleaners.

* Use commercial drain cleaners with caution they can be harmful to eyes and skin. Use them in well ventilated area.

Don'ts

* Do not wait until the clog has completely stopped the drain up.

* Do not empty food or coffee grounds down a drain.

* Do not pour grease or any greasy type substance down the drain.

* Do not mix household cleansers with drain cleaners.

* Do not allow any chemical cleaner to remain on porcelain. Allowing it to remain will cause damage to the finish.

* Never mix two types of drain cleaners together.

* Make sure any previous cleaners in completely wash away by flushing with plenty of water before using another drain cleaner.

* Once you have used a chemical cleaner do not use a plunder or pressurized drain cleaner. Using these can cause a splash back which can contain chemicals.

* If you do need to call a plumber tell him of any chemical cleaner you may have previously used.

For drain that are just moderately clogged you can pour 1/2 cup baking soda down the drain followed then by 1/2 cup of vinegar. This will cause a reaction of foaming and fumes so if you replace the drain cover leave it loose. Wait about three hours then flush the drain.

Drain that may be slow running because of grease can usually be cleared by using 1/2 cup of baking soda and 1/2 cup of salt. Pour it down the drain with a pot of boiling hot water after them. Let it sit overnight.

Hockey Skating Drills

The most important aspect of hockey except scoring, is skating. Knowing hockey skating drills is very important for anyone who might want to try out the game of hockey. Here are some hockey skating drills that you can use to better the technique of your skaters.

Power start drill

This hockey skating drill will teach skaters how to have fast powerful starts. The drill is to have a player pull another to the red line. Player 2 holds player 1 by the jersey. Player 1 takes 5-6 strides or until he reaches the red line to come to a gliding stop. Each player that is being pulled should do this 5-6 times before switching places.

4-minute skating drill

First, you must divide all players in groups of 3 players each. Each player will skate from the blue line to the middle red line and back again twice with full speed. The next players repeat what player 1 did, and this goes on for 4 minutes.

4 stop drill

Players form a line at one end of the rink. Player 1 takes off clockwise and skates to each of the four face- off marks, power stops, looks up and waves at the coach. After all four marks are hit, player one skates back in line behind the rest as player 2 takes off and so on. The drill is repeated 4-5 time without stopping.

Piranha pivot

Starting at one end of the rink, Player 1 skates full speed to the blue line, then pivots and skates backwards to the second blue line, pivots again and skates to the other red line and goes behind the net, pivots again, skates backwards until the second blue line, pivots again to reach the end of the rink where he started.

Russian circles

Players skate in a single file around the 5 face-off circles with a puck.

Skate figure 8

You must place four cones on the back face-off dots. Players must skate in a figure 8 pattern around the goal outside the cones. Once they pass the goal, they must sprint, pass the cones and skate to the other end.

Snow cone drill

Players are divided into two groups and are put in opposing corners. A cone is put at the blue line. Both teams must skate to the blue line with a hard stop, pivot and skate backwards to the starting point.

The dots

Separate the players to make two groups and put them on opposite sides. At the same time, make them skate to the dots in a zig zag manner so that they will cross each others path. They will make a full stop at each dot until they reach the other end of the rink.

Chasing the wind

The players will line up side by side on the blue line. When the coach blows the whistle, they will skate the second blue line and stop. The coach will blow his whistle again and the players will skate to the red line in the middle. The coach will blow the whistle again and the players will skate to the blue line where they started. This is good for cardio, starting, and stopping. As minutes pass, the coach will make the players go faster by decreasing the stop time at each line.

The hockey skating drills found the above are On good for beginners and more advanced player. Coaches and players must always remember that you can not reach the net to score if you do not first know how to skate.

Why Vinyl Is Better Than Timber For External Wall Cladding

Home improvement is a task that will never end since there are a lot of new materials and items homeowners can opt for to make their houses more comfortable and more appealing. The only way homeowners can reduce home improvement tasks is to look for materials or items that can match their needs and last for a long time. When it comes to outdoor aesthetics and improvement such as external wall cladding, most homeowners prefer vinyl than its traditional counterpart timber due to the following features below.

Durability

Timber cladding is made from wood. Of course, everyone knows that wood can last for a long time. However, there are numerous issues that can affect the credibility of wood such as water and pests, which can be a huge expenditure. Luckily, vinyl cladding can withstand water problems. In addition, vinyl cladding does not attract pests. As a result, this type of cladding can be used for a longer period of time.

Maintenance

When it comes to maintenance, vinyl also has little to no maintenance. In addition, cleaning vinyl is also a breeze since you only need to make use of a mild solution and a brush or cloth. Unfortunately, when using timber, homeowners need to do a pile of maintenance tasks from repainting, re-oiling, and even filling cracks to ensure that timber cladding will last for a long time.

Appearance

As for appearance, many homeowners still opt for timber cladding since it features a unique and natural appeal for the house. Its gradation of colours, the rings, and grain increases the wonderful aesthetics of the cladding. But, if you are looking for a more contemporary look to match your modern house, vinyl cladding can provide you with such feature.

Installation

In terms of installation, vinyl cladding is easier and more convenient to install since it is light-weight and flexible. Therefore, you can easily install it even on unusual wall shapes. On the other hand, timber installation can be a huge task since it is heavy. Apart from that, there are cases when you need to hire experts to properly accomplish the job.

Costs

Lastly, the costs of vinyl and timber claddings are virtually the same. Costs may differ depending on the type of timber or the type of vinyl texture you are looking for. Size can also alter cladding costs. So, it is important that you measure your house properly to avoid over spending when you purchase.

By knowing all these, homeowners can easily choose the right wall cladding that can match their needs and preferences.

Design of Roof Trusses

Typically Roof/Floor Trusses under Miami-Dade Building Code / Florida Building Code are not required to be built with Treated Lumber, because simply our code requires the homes to be fumigated for termites during the construction process.

However, all export jobs going abroad do require the Trusses to be built with Treated Lumber. The Treatment that is normally used is Borate

Borate treated wood is on the rise as a safe and long-lasting method to protect homes from wood destroying organisms. There are several types of borate wood preservatives used to treat solid wood, engineered wood composites and other interior building products like studs, plywood, joists and rafters. Borate treated wood has been used successfully for more than 50 years in New Zealand, for a decade in Hawaii – specifically to combat the voracious and highly destructive Formosan subterranean termite – and increasingly throughout the mainland United States. Borates prevent fungal decay and are deadly to termites, carpenter ants and roaches – but safe for people, pets and the environment. Borates interfere with termites’ metabolic pathways when ingested through feeding or grooming, effectively killing them. Surviving termites avoid the protected wood products

Many Truss Manufactures use Sillbor a Borate Treatment done by Robbins Lumber. By using Borate Treated Lumber no Special Truss Plates are required. The standard G60 Truss Plate works fine.

For added Protection you can have your trusses built with Borate Lumber at an additional cost of roughly 20%. This added benfit will Protect Your Trusses as Follows

Termites… Experts on this subject all agree, “In the South, you either had, have or will have termites.” The southern United States is an ideal habitat for subterranean termites. Now there is the added threat of the Formosan termite. This voracious species poses an even greater problem because of its huge colonies and destructive appetite.

Many homeowners have found that, against some termites, standard soil treatment alone is an inadequate defense.

Rot & Decay… The fungi that cause wood rot exist throughout the United States. SillBor® wood provides a shield with warranted protection for the home’s sill plate and other interior uses..

Cockroaches and other pests… A laboratory study reported in the Forest Products Journal found only one of 60 cockroaches alive after 28 weeks exposure to borate-treated wood. Meantime, in control enclosures with untreated wood, the cockroach population increased from 60 to 201. The particular species of cockroach tested is considered an indicative organism for other non-wood-destroying pests. The authors conclude, “The results suggested that borate pressure treated lumber may provide control of cockroaches in the immediate vicinity.”

Why People Hate Nonprofit Board Service

Tonight, the stakeholders (parents) of my daughter's school will be voting to approve the list of new board members to replace those who are rolling off at the end of the school year. I am on the new member list, so I thought I would take this occasion to address board service and why it is so dreaded.

If you have been around the nonprofit world very long, you undoubtedly have heard the horror stories. You may have a few of your own. The examples include everything from complete and utter apathy to dictatorial death grip … and lots in-between. Over the course of the past 15 years, I have been on 6 boards of directors and have advised countless others. Tonight's vote should make the tally 7. Some of these boards have been healthy, productive boards and some have been dysfunctional beyond belief. One of the boards I serve on started with a nightmare board, but has evolved into one the best I've ever seen (so there is hope for you!).

Here are some typical situations:

  • The board is unengaged. Apathy reigns supreme. Nobody cares. The board members give lip service to the cause, but dump everything on the shoulders of the hired Executive Director. Few new board members who come into this type of situation are comfortable rocking the boat even if they realize it's unhealthy. Most will quietly serve out their term and move on. And that's assuming the Executive Director does not quit and the organization fold as a result.
  • The board has a dominant leader. By dominant, I do not mean simply persuasive and hyper-engaged. I'm talking about a dictator who runs roughshod over everyone else. Talk about miserable! Well-meaning board members caught in this situation dread meetings and fear even opening their mouth for fear of getting shot down and publicly humiliated. This is a nightmare scenario and all too common.
  • A board that does not understand its role. This one is stealthy … and very, very common. A BOARD'S ROLE IS TO GOVERN, NOT TO MANAGE. Read that sentence again. If you get nothing else from this article, get that. The board's role is to establish the mission, define the programs and set strategy, then to install those staff members and / or volunteers who can carry it all out (manage). Boards that do not understand the difference between management and governance will constantly undermine those charged with responsibility for conducting the programs. This unhealthy micromanagement leads to frustration and, inevitably, ineffective programs. Often, members of a micromanaging board may not even realize the dysfunction if they have never been a part of a board that understands this concept. They will be aware, however, that anything that manages to get accomplished seems to take Herculean effort.
  • No training for new board members. For some reason, most nonprofit boards assume new members just automatically know what to do. Some might, but most do not. Investing in training of new board members can pave the way for a fulfilling experience that may result in more people being willing to contribute their time and talent to other organizations.

No matter the particular dysfunction, the resulting damage can be widespread. Obviously, the charity suffers greatly. So, too, do the board members involved. As a result, many a valuable person is forever burned by the experience and he or she swears off board service forever. It should not be that way. Serving on the board of a great organization should be a privilege, not a chore. Yes, it is work. And, yes, it takes precious time that we all have too little of.

I am happy to report that the board I am about to join is exceptionally healthy and functional. If only more were like that.

The Front Porch "Is this the answer?"

Before World War II the front porch was the gathering place for friends and neighbors. They would gather on the porch to sing, play games or just to talk. For the adults and children alike, it was the favorite place to be after supper. Back then they were friends with their neighbors; they did not have to worry if the next door neighbor was a murderer, rapist, child predator, or drug dealer.

After World War II technology took over our lives. We began to live in a fast paced world where we did not have time to sit on our porch or to socialize with our neighbors, thus the decline of the front porch. This allowed the criminal to move into our neighborhoods. We do not even know the name of most of our neighbors, we do not have time to stop and say hi let alone gather to talk, sing or play games.

Lately there has been a yearning to go back to simpler times, when life was simpler, when we knew our next door neighbor. In recent years we have seen the return of the front porch but we still do not have the time to sit and gather with our neighbors.

So what would happen if we actually took the time to sit on our porch and get to know the people next door? Maybe this would help bring our neighborhoods back to the safe place they used to be. Maybe it would deter the murderer, the rapist, the child predator or the drug dealer from moving next door.

We need to take back our neighborhoods so that our children are safe. Maybe the answer is so simple that we have overlooked it. Maybe it is as simple as the return of the front porch. But it will not do any good to just build a porch we will have to actually use it.

One way to implement the use of the front porch is to invite your neighbors over for a pot luck barbecue. There are many activities you will be able to come up with that everyone would enjoy.

So why do not we turn off the televisions, get off the internet and take the time to gather on the front porch, get to know our neighbors and bring back the safe haven our neighborhoods should be.

Would not it be wonderful if it's just as simple as making our front porch a gathering place.

How to Spot Potential Contractor Fraud – Here Are 10 Red Flags

Contractors are having to bid with minimal profit, if any, just to stay afloat and projects that would have garnered only a handful quality bids in better times are now seeing 4 and 5 times the number of bids as was once the norm. The low number for a new construction, remodel, home improvement or repair project is not necessarily the best number and without your due diligence may bring you more headaches than you know.

Signs of Potential Contractor Fraud:

  • Contractor shows up unsolicited and offers services in exchange for payment
  • Contractor is unable or unwilling to provide references for prior work performed
  • Contractor asks for payment in full up front or asks for payment in cash
  • Contractor provides a "lump sum" or very general estimate lacking detail
  • Contractor's place of contact is a hotel, work truck, construction trailer or any other place not verifiable as an established business
  • Contractor does not have a local office or local phone
  • Contractor is unwilling to provide evidence of Certificates of Insurance for General Liability or Worker's Compensation
  • Contractor prefers to handle all contact in person and avoids the use of mail or email
  • Contractor does not have a license or contractor's bond required in those states issuing licenses as a requirement to do work
  • Contractor's bid is too low in comparison to other bids received for the same work

Proceed with Caution

If you've made the decision to hire a contractor, then exercise contractor fraud prevention before signing on the dotted line. Here are some helpful tips to consider:

  1. Obtain bids and written estimates from at least 3 reputable contractors who have been referred by friends, co-workers or other family members
  2. Contact the Better Business Bureau to see if any complaints have been registered against the contractor (s) you are considering. This step is invaluable and often overlooked
  3. As a general rule, if you do not understand it, do not sign it. Seek outside assistance, if necessary, for interpretation of contract terms and do not be afraid to make changes
  4. Never leave any blank areas on a signed contract and make sure you get a copy of the contract and the contractor's insurance BEFORE any work begins
  5. In most areas, you have 3 days to cancel a contract if solicited at a place other than the company's place of business. If you do decide to cancel, do it in writing by registered mail with a return receipt
  6. Final payment to a contractor should NEVER be made until the contractor provides verification, through signed lien releases, that his subcontractors and suppliers have been paid for their work and work is completed

Check your state's Licensing Requirements

A general note, some states have minimum dollar limits before a contractor is required to be licensed for example, the state of Arkansas requires contractors, who choose to bid on construction projects, to have a license if the value of the work is $ 20,000 or greater . Each state's requirements will vary. These can be verified through your state's Contractor's Board.

Avoiding Contractor Fraud

Taking into account these 10 Red Flags and then taking a few extra steps when you have decided on a contractor, can mean the difference between a successful project or having to deal with the loss and embarrassment of contractor fraud or a contractor scam.

You as a consumer do have rights when dealing with any contractor. Know your rights, before starting any home improvement, repair or addition and check with your local state or municipality for any laws pertaining to the licensing of contractors and insurance requirements in your state.

Stopping contractor fraud starts with consumers who are best informed and know what signs to look for. You work hard for your money so you should expect nothing less than getting full benefit from every dollar spent.

Stainless Steel Sheet

A Little Bit Of Info About The Versatility Of Stainless Steel Sheet.Stainless steel is a marvelous invention that changed the face of industrial, commercial, and domestic metallurgy forever. It is such a normal part of our everyday lives that we may not notice its presence, but we would definitely notice its absence. Here's a little bit about this amazing and versatile alloy.

Carbon steel has long been used for construction and other uses, of course, but its main drawback was its corrosive nature. Any kind of exposure to the elements meant rust, rust, and more rust. Very few steel artifacts remain from ancient times because they simply crumbled away over the centuries unless they were protected in some way. In the 19th century, European metallurgists discovered that adding chromium to carbon steel would make it much more corrosion-resistant, but they were never able to create practical applications for their discovery.

In the 20th century, however, Americans found a workable formula for combining chromium with steel, and "stainless steel" was officially patented. Although it is technically not completely stainless, a steel / chromium alloy containing at least 11% chromium is much more stain resistant than its pure carbon counterpart, and does not rust or corrode nearly as easily.

Though originally seen as a great solution for cutlery, clever and enterprising pioneering inventors and engineers soon found a host of applications for it, particularly in the area of ​​architecture.

During the art deco period of the 1920's, American buildings began to take on a luster that they did not have before: New York's Chrysler Building, for example, had its top covered with intricately and artistically cut sheets of stainless. The Gateway Arch in St Louis is perhaps the best example of a monument protected by the non-corrosive properties of stainless steel. With very little maintenance over the years, these two structures still look as fresh as the day they were built.

In addition to architecture, It is used for machinery of all kinds, commercial kitchens, medical instruments, lighting fixtures, restaurant furniture, household appliances, backyard grills, and even jewelry. It has also become a favorite with amateur metal workers who want to create sculptures, box planters, and even mailboxes for their homes!

The higher the chromium content, the greater the weather protection, and there are over 150 different grades of stainless steel alloys available on the market today. Which kind is used depends entirely on its application.

The chameleon-like properties of a stainless steel sheet are the main reasons why it is so widely used yet so little noticed. We've come to take stainless steel for granted in our everyday lives, yet we'd hardly know how to live without it anymore.