Collecting and History of Blue Willow China List of Companies That Produce


I have seen credit given for the willow china pattern given to at least two different people. One would be Thomas Turner who is said to have introduced the famous design in about 1780. The original copper plate for his design was engraved by Thomas Minton and is still preserved at Coalport China. The most reported story says that the willow design was the creation of Josiah Spode, a derivation of an original Chinese pattern called Mandarin. Spode developed his willow pattern sometime around 1790.

The traditional willow design always features a large beautiful Chinese home with a willow tree, small bridge with 3 figures, a humble servants house at the foot of the bridge, a small Chinese boat & of course the famous love birds above the willow tree. The romantic lore of the design could have added to it’s popularity over the years.

The story goes something like this…….

Long ago, in the days when China was ruled by emperors, a Chinese mandarin, Tso Ling, lived in the magnificent pagoda under the branches of the apple tree on the right of the bridge, over which droops the famous willow tree, and in front of which is seen the graceful lines of the fence. Tso Ling was the father of a beautiful girl, Kwang-se, who was the promised bride of an old but wealthy merchant. The girl, however, fell in love with Chang, her father’s clerk. The lovers eloped across the sea to the cottage on the island. The mandarin pursued and caught the lovers and was about to have them killed when the gods transformed them into a pair of turtle doves. These are seen gazing into each other’s eyes at the top of the design. A lengthy and old Staffordshire poem of the pattern concludes with the verse: “In the oft quoted plate two birds are perceived, High in the heaven above: These are the spirits of Chang and Kwang-se, A twin pair of ever in love”.

Companies That Produce Willow China Due to Spode’s obvious success with the Blue Willow design, many, many pottery & china companies went on to produce some version of it. Here is a list of manufacturers that I am familiar with that produced or still do produce Blue Willow.

Adams Adderly Alfred Meakin Allerton Barratt Booths Buffalo (restaurantware & hotelware) Burslem Churchill Coalport Cuthbertson Homer Laughlin John Maddox & Sons Johnson Brothers McCoy Pottery Myott Made in China Made in Holland Made in Japan Maruta Moriyama Pottery (Japan) Norcrest Ridgeway Royal China Royal Doulton Royal Wessex Scio Pottery (Ohio) Spode Staffordshire Syracuse China(Restaurantware & Hotelware) Wedgewood Wood & Sons

VARIETY OF WILLOW ITEMS As the popularity of Blue Willow grew & grew over the years many companies begin to make a variety of merchandise to coordinate with the customer’s china pieces. You can find just about anything in Blue Willow including but not limited to: glassware, wallpaper, linens , tablecloths & towels, flatware & cutlery, picture frames, piggy banks, cookware, enamelware, fabric, tins, needlepoint pillows & kits, planters, candles, switchplates, items for bed & bath, soap dishes, even paper products including paper plated & napkins!

Besides numerous price guides written to aid collectors, there is a child’s story book entitled BLUE WILLOW by Doris Gates. You might enjoy recipes from The Blue Willow Inn Bible of Southern Cooking.

In 2005 there was even an animated short movie made in New Zealand that tells Blue Willow’s story of love & family betrayal.

The willow design is also made in red (sometimes called red transferware, or pink willow), green, brown & multicolored.

There are many Blue Willow pieces now being made in China. These are nice pieces to fill in your collection with & much more reasonable than antique or vintage pieces. There are sellers however that try to pass these newly produced items off as vintage or antique. Be sure you are buying from a reputable sellers.Also be sure what you are buying is actually blue willow. I have seen Flow Blue, Blue Onion, Blue Calico & other Blue Transferware advertised as Blue Willow.

The most valuable Blue Willow items are the early English, Staffordshire & Spode pieces. The Mid Century Made in Japan pieces are growing in popularity as well & can command a good price on unusual styles. There are quite a few restaurantware collectors out there too, so the heavy restaurant weight china usually does well.

I hope this has given you a little insight into collecting Blue Willow China ~ Have Fun!

How to Repair a Hot Tub Filter Housing Leak on a Hot Tub?

Filter Housing Leak Review

Sooner or later, you will need a hot tub leak repair depends on how you care for your spa. A tub spa normally does not leak. The majority tub leaks can be derived to certain parts of the tub such as: heater assembly manifold, pump wet end seal, jet bodies, PVC plumbing parts and tubing, slice and gate valves, connections. It is recommended to do tub leak repair in the beginning to avoid hot tub severe damaged.

Leak and discolorations are the most filter housing problem. Discoloration is usually happened on an older hot tub while the hot-tub leak unclean water. Housing leak can damage tub overall if you don’t do anything, not so with discoloration.

Filter housing discoloration is a nature event with really nothing you can do now but know it is happening. Over time it will happen to brittle and easy to break. Until it starts being a problem and it’s out of spectacle, let it be not in of mind as well.

The discoloration will not hurt anything including housing; it is just natural discoloration from over a decade of use. You do not need to worry about it since it is still working well.

How to repair a filter housing leak spas problem?

Having a housing leak in your hot tub can be a real throbbing, especially if you don’t know what you have to be done. You need to call tub repair professional for easy way.

The best way to stop a leak between the filters housing and the shell is by draining some of the water in your tub to get it below the filter. You can add some good silicone sealant and caulk all of the seams between the tub shell and the filter housing.

Make sure to press the sealant into the gaps with your finger or caulking tool to get good penetration and let it set until fully cured before filling. Filter housing leak might cause a plumbing leak or damage the housing when you try to remove it. So you must do carefully.

Make sure there is no strain on the filter housing system, the o-ring locks up with strain. Depending on the diameter of housing, a large pair of channel locks or a strap wrench should work. But be careful to hesitate you don’t want to break the filter head. Remember to do carefully.

Concrete & Foundation Requirements For Steel Building Kits

Steel building kits are becoming a very popular option in regard to new building construction. Typically, you can construct a steel building kit much faster, and much cheaper than you could a traditional wood frame building. They are virtually maintenance-free and for the smaller buildings, you don’t always need a contractor to build it.

One detail that will need to be worked out before you build, and before you purchase, is onto what will the building be erected? Bare dirt? Concrete? Concrete foundations increase the overall cost of the project, but may be required for a larger building, or a structure that will be permanent. The primary type of steel structures that are on dirt foundations are carports. But, depending on local requirements, steel buildings can sometimes be built on bare ground. The following information will illustrate some details on ground foundations and concrete foundations.

You will find that steel building kits can be anchored on the ground (without a concrete floor) or on concrete. Before getting into particulars, if you are in an area that has a frost line, you will need to be approximately 12″ under that frost line for your perimeter footings. This depth requirement for colder areas applies to ground anchoring as well.

The below described concrete applications do not account for frost line requirements.

Ground Mount (no concrete pad):

  1. When mounting your steel building kit to the ground, you will be required to dig a post hole approximately 10″ in diameter and 30″ deep every five feet or every four feet depending upon whether you have purchased a 5′ on-center system or a 4′ on-center system.
  2. Assemble your base rails** and lay them in place, marking where your holes should be dug. (A 16 D nail poked into the ground through the pre-drilled hole in the base rails works very accurately for this.)
  3. Next, use a post hole digger or auger and drill your holes 30″ deep. Clean out the holes.
  4. You would now lay out your steel building kit base rails according to the instructions and drop the ground anchors into the pre-drilled holes. Use a 2500psi concrete (pre-mixed bags or mix your own) and, using a shovel, fill the holes.

You should wait at least seven days for the concrete to properly set before moving on with the assembly of your steel building.

Concrete Mount:

  1. Size the slab. You should make your slab 4″ wider than the width of your steel building and 6″ longer. This is so you don’t break or crack the edge of the slab when affixing the concrete anchor expansion bolts into your slab.
  2. Concrete Floor: Your floor should be a minimum of 4″ thick. Make it 6″ thick if you are intending large vehicles such as trucks or larger RVs to be parked on it. The concrete should be a minimum of 2500 psi concrete with fiber mesh reinforcement added at the batch plant OR #3 rebar on 24″ centers. You should also consider going with a concrete mixture of 4000psi along with the extra two inches of concrete if you are intending more than a normal amount of weight.
  3. Be sure to saw cut expansion joints within an appropriate time after the pour is finished or trowel in the expansion joints while the finishing is occurring.

Footing Requirements: (International Building Code 2000 or “IBC 2000” requirements)

At the same time you pour the floor, you are going to pour the perimeter footings. This is called a monolithic pour or monolithic slab. Perimeter footings need to be 12″ deep (you can include the 4″ of floor as part of the 12″) and 16″ wide. The footings will have to have two #4 rebar lengths top and bottom, continuous run around the complete perimeter.

In our local area (Tempe, AZ), the footings would cost approximately $11.50 per lineal (running) foot.

That’s it. If your building department is still using UBC 1997 (Uniform Building Code), which many of them are, your footing only needs to be 12″ wide. That should knock about $1.00 per lineal foot off the above footing price estimate. For more information on concrete requirements for steel buildings, visit Absolute Steel and Storage. You can find many pages of technical help information there.

** = See pictures on putting together your base rails here: Assemble your base rails

How to Remove the Keyless Chuck From a Makita BDF452 Cordless Drill

It is always the small things in life that make the biggest differences – smiling at a stranger on the street, holding hands with your partner at the movie theater, taking the garbage out before it overflows, and those blasted drill chucks that seem to require Naval attention to beak loose.

It’s true, many craftsmen struggle with their drill chucks. They can be pesky beyond imagination, but, users of Makita’s BDF452 18v cordless drill, fear your chuck no more. Although it may still require what some would consider saintly patience to remove it, there are just a few simple steps to follow and you should have that chuck removed in no time.

To begin, recognize the appropriate safety precautions (i.e. wearing safety glasses) and ensure the chuck is fully engaged and that the gear box is set in low. Open the chuck completely and you will see a small screw down in the center of the opening. Keeping in mind that the screw will have left-handed threads and the chuck itself will have right-handed threads, remove the screw. If said screw is missing, this is no problem, it is replaceable and simply saves you a step.

Next, insert the smaller (or short) end of a large allen wrench into the chuck and tighten the chuck completely around it. Remember, your drill should be set in low and the clutch should be set to “drill.” With your BDF452 now firmly set on a bench (or on the floor), and using a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet, smack the long end of the allen wrench (with counter-clockwise force). The chuck should release with the blow. If it does not let go on the first whack, simply repeat until the chuck breaks loose. As many chucks are secured very tightly, it is not abnormal to require a few blows before release.

If after a series of good whacks, your stubborn chuck still does not release, spray some WD-40 into the center of the chuck’s opening. After allowing the lubricant settle in (for about an hour), repeat the hammering process until the chuck breaks loose.

Top Ten Mistakes Made in Masonry Repair

When you have settling cracks in your brick walls, you need to get them repointed. This process is known as tuck pointing. However, before you make any attempts at repairing this yourself or hiring the repairs done by a contractor or handyman, you should know the top ten most common mistakes made in repointing mortar.

The first mistake is having the repairs made before checking for additional problems. Repairing the cracks in the mortar and brick before checking the foundation or other problems that occur can result in more damage to your home and to your masonry siding.

Settling cracks occur due to the foundation settling and applying stress to the bricks. This makes them a common symptom of foundation repair and can help in understanding where and how much movement of the foundation has occurred.

To tuck point the mortar and replace broken brick along these settling cracks limits the ability to accurately repair the house foundation. Performing these repairs often results in damage to the brick walls when the foundation is repaired. Any mortar or bricks placed in these cracks to fill the gap become a wedge and force the opposite crack to form in the area and the brick tend to push out at corners of the house causing brick walls to crack, lean away from the house, or come off the foundation entirely when the house is lifted.

It cannot be stressed enough to check for other problems with the structure or foundation of the home before repairing mortar cracks.

The second most common mistake made in fixing settling cracks in brick is choosing a foundation repair company to level your foundation. There is a difference between leveling your foundation of your house and fixing your foundation problems.

There has never been a house foundation built perfectly level that I am aware of, and to level the foundation under your house would apply stresses to your home and cause more problems with your foundation. This in turn would create more cracks in the bricks and mortar joints around your home. When they stress the word level and use a computerized level for their readings, it is a strong indication that they intend to try leveling your foundation even if it causes more problems. If they focus on lifting, stabilizing, adjusting, and use the cracks in the mortar and brick to acquire their range of movement in the house slab, then they are likely taking more accurate details about the movement and have a better chance at providing quality foundation repair services.

The third common mistake in brick repair is using these tubes of mortar repair caulking in an attempt to repair the cracks yourself. While caulking is used around doors and windows and in expansion control joints to seal the wall and still allow movement, they are not intended for use as the mortar and can cause other damage to the brick.

The caulking will never look like the mortar and tends to be difficult to clean off of the faces of bricks due to their texture. The same is true of many other masonry repair products. They contain adhesives, epoxy, and other add mixes that can be hard to work with and difficult to remove. It often requires removing all of the brick in areas where these products are used to repair the brick. If you want to repair the mortar cracks yourself, you should use a proper repointing mortar with the same composition as the original. These are not bulk items they are custom made for matching your mortar composition, and require a mortar matching analysis of your existing mortar samples.

The fourth masonry repair mistake is how you match the mortar. This is not to be confused with matching mortar color. Mortar matching is the process of analyzing samples of the mortar to identify their composition, performance, and formula. As the color of sand and other materials in the composition effect the color, they are related, but the base formula of a mortar composition must be matched before any attempts are made to match the color of an existing mortar.

The mortar composition and formula are the guide to making a proper repair mortar and maintaining the formula. This is important because if the mortar is mismatched and has a different composition than the original mortar, it can have complications that make the color more difficult to match, cause damage to the bricks, prevent the new mortar from bonding with the old mortar, and could allow the wall to fall if the mortar crumbles.

The fifth most common mistake in repairing masonry is matching mortar color. Most of the time the mortar composition analysis of the original mortar is skipped and general assumptions are made in its place. This causes difficulty in matching mortar color because the color is a direct result of the composition and the ratio of materials in the mortar mix. To match the color of a mortar, you need to first match the formula and composition of the existing mortar.

After you have the base formula and composition, you can adjust the mortar color by adjusting the colors of base materials and adding pigments as needed. However, a common error is adding pigments or other materials too fast or changing the formula base. You must adhere to the base formula to maintain the performance and type of mortar being produced, and remember to add all portions slowly as you can continue to add but are unable to take anything back out.

In masonry repair, the sixth common mistake is the depth of repairs. A patch or bandage covers the top of a problem, but to repair the cracks, you need to remove some of the existing mortar. It needs to be removed to a depth that allows for a good bond of the new mortar to the old mortar and the bricks. This will help to ensure a lasting masonry repair. Generally, a good depth is about 1/2-3/4 of an inch deep into the mortar joints. More is better especially when the gap allows you to replace the entire mortar joint.

The seventh item where errors occur is in preparing the cracks for repointing. Dust and debris remaining in the cracks prevent the new mortar from bonding to the old cement and prevent the mortar joints from filling completely. It is important to brush away any loose debris or dust and rinse and moisten the old mortar. This will help the new mortar bond to the existing mortar.

The eighth mistake commonly made is in mixing the mortar. Too often, water is added rapidly and exceeds the amount needed and attempts are made to adjust this. The most common attempt to correct this problem is to add sand or mix to the mortar. When you do this, the composition formula is changed and the resulting mortar will not meet your requirements.

If you add too much water, you must add more of the entire composition materials based on the formula to adjust this without changing the ratio and mortar type. It is best to add water or pigments slowly as you cannot remove them, and when mistakes like this occur, you might be better to dispose of the mortar and start again.

The ninth most made error in tuck pointing is filing the mortar joint completely. When filing the mortar joints, they may look full, but they must be packed in to the mortar joints tightly. Dust and debris can prevent this and should be cleaned out before installing new mortar.

When mortar joints are not filled completely, they tend to crumble when pressure is applied. This is often noticed during tooling the mortar joints if the mortar has began to stiffen in the wall before jointing or tooling takes place. If this is noticed, remove the mortar where it occurs and replace it again. Also, remember that begin to stiffen does not mean let it get hard before tooling the joints. Applying pressure to dry mortar that hasn’t cured will cause cracking or crumbling of the mortar and will need replaced again.

And the tenth most common mistake in brick mortar repair is tooling and brushing the mortar joints. As I previously mentioned, tooling must be done as the mortar begins to stiffen but before it gets too hard for tooling. However, when tooling the mortar, it is important to match the existing type of tooling. There are all different designs for the tools that shape the mortar joints. The most common design is a rounded or raked mortar joint. You will want to use a jointing tool that produces the correct design and size of mortar joint. These tools come in wider angles for thicker mortar joints.

This is important to making the repairs blend into the wall. Using a jointer that doesn’t match will cause the mortar to cast a shadow at the intersections of new and old mortar. This also occurs with the mortar tags or excess mortar that are pressed out furring tooling. You must brush the excess away and blend the edges of each and every mortar joint to make the repairs match properly.

As you can see, masonry repair is a very detailed process where slight variance of any detail significantly changes the out come of the repairs.

Painting Business – 6 Tips For Painting Business Success

If you have always wanted to start your own painting business and have it run smoothly and profitably right from the start…, if you would like to go home at night and relax in your easy chair with a smile on your face and the sweet feeling of having your entrepreneurial desires accomplished, below are 6 tips that can get you there fast.

1.) Use the best paint available for residential painting – I use Benjamin Moore paint in people’s homes. The new latex version of their famous Satin Impervo for woodwork and trim is outstanding. Their Regal wall paint in the Matt finish is very good also, especially when it comes to wash ability that doesn’t leave burnishing marks like with cheaper paints.

You just can go wrong using a high quality name like Benjamin Moore – especially when the products are excellent and user-friendly. This brand name is always welcomed in the finest of homes (million dollar homes) as well as everywhere else!

2.) I recommend having a painting business partner – this is so critical in business. There are so many reasons why it makes sense not to go it alone as a painter. You can turn your jobs faster, the work becomes easier, two people can come up with good ideas, techniques, etc.

3.) Diversify your services – some painters like to offer more than just painting. There are natural add-on services like power washing, window washing, light carpentry, drywall/plaster repair, driveway sealing, etc. These extra services can help keep you consistently busy and more profitable.

4.) Strive for repeat business – many businesses prosper just from repeat business alone. An example would be window washing. Having painting business contracts set up that are repeating on a monthly or seasonal cycle could be a strong backbone for your company’s profits. This can work in commercial painting where you and the customer agree on a monthly or seasonal maintenance or touch-up painting schedule.

5.) Use referrals and other free painting business getting secrets – Word of mouth or getting referrals is the strongest form of advertising. If your company does good work you will get a lot of referrals. These referrals are people that are pre-sold on you and your company by their friends and acquaintances.

So if you go do an estimate from a referral consider the fact that most of the time it will be a sure yes. Also having good references on demand for new potential customers who are cold contacts is important and works well also.

6.) Learn how to estimate – next to getting a lot of free advertising, nothing beats having a good estimating system in place for maximum painting business profits. New painters struggle and many times eat their jobs in the beginning. Or they will give their work away just to get the job because they are so afraid the customer will reject their bid.

When you know how to estimate correctly you will not be afraid of your company prices because you know they are fair. Plus if the customer says no, you can always offer to go a bit lower or just move on to the next estimate.

7.) Bonus tip: I like to work comfortable hours. I usually work 9 am – 4 pm Monday through Friday. I like my weekends off. Once in a while there are exceptions when I will work a half-day on Saturday or a commercial job that requires you to work nights.

But I never work Sundays. I wouldn’t make an animal work on Sunday let alone a human. Sunday is your God-given day off to relax and enjoy spending it with your loved ones. Give yourself some class.

The Proscenium Arch

The proscenium arch is like a window to the stage! It is a window that separates the audience from the stage and it is a central element in an established form of theater design.

The theater is entertainment! Yes the theater is entertainment! The theater is about viewing the stage. In the old Victorian theaters, seating rose almost literally and symbolically to ‘the gods. This was where the highest seats were…but these seats were away from the plushness, glamor and style below. Yes the gods, they offered a view but it was one view.

You could say the proscenium arch was the window for this view. It was a ‘real and true’ window. However, maybe the real window was the great central space of the theater which rose to the lights, sometimes great chandeliers above….

Sometimes as you look through the proscenium arch, you can see the great stage below…and sometimes it is at the back of this stage that the orchestra plays.. the orchestra plays behind the stage rather than in front of the stage in the ‘pit’. And here then the stage is another world..

The proscenium arch and its curtains and all..and the lighting around.. these can create the illusion of space. You could argue that the proscenium arch restrains and hinders ‘space’. The audience is ‘cramped in’ as they wait for the rise of the curtains. But why would they be cramped in? There is space for everyone! Maybe the proscenium arch does the opposite. Instead of ‘restraining’ space, it rather creates space.

Space is important in theater..and in the victorian theaters..seating rises to the ‘gods’. It’s as if there is a lack of seating and the only way is up! But is this really the reason? Maybe the reason is to view the stage or maybe it is ..something to do with the real and true purpose of the theater, which is entertainment. Yes, entertaining not just the so-called high-brow but the low-brow also…the high brow, the low brow..and the middle brow of course. Yes, the reason is entertainment and theater, it’s just offers the human being the chance to be a spectator, any chance…and ‘the gods’ and the ‘circles’ can give that chance. And ‘the gods’, although they are cheap and high’ are sometimes the best places to see the entertainment.

But what does the proscenium hide? It hides the stage behind and when the curtain rises,the stage opens out into a wide space. Sometimes it’s not just a picture that the audience sees… is not just a picture they see but a whole world. And in this way, you can say that the proscenium arch hides and then uncovers a world rather than a stage or a picture and people want to see new worlds! So the proscenium arch is the great window which ‘offers’ this world. It is the ‘book cover’, the great outer design aiming to uncover the great inner design behind.

Curb Appeal Ideas for Homes on the Market

There are simple and affordable ideas to add charm, beauty and uniqueness to your home without breaking the bank. Your home needs to stand out from the hundreds of other homes on the market in order to increase foot traffic of potential buyers. If you are not able to complete the work yourself, you may want to hire a reputable company to help.

The condition of the front door is the first issue to be addressed. Make sure it is clearly visible from the road by cutting down any tree limbs hindering the view. Make sure it has a fresh coat of paint, no cracks in the glass or tears in the screen. If you are showing your home during a holiday like Christmas, add special touches that reflect the season. Create a fresh wreath of evergreen boughs and add a few silk poinsettias for a splash of color. Examine the house numbers and mailbox area, making sure they are in good working condition, painted, and clearly visible.

If you have a concrete drive and walk with a few cracks and you have a few months before the house goes on the market, plant sedum. Incorporate composted topsoil into the crevices and plant a few sedum plants to add softness and charm. After the plant is established, it will be drought tolerate. Sedum grows in the full sun; varieties have different foliage color and most plants offer spring blooms.

If there are areas of your lawn that are brown and patchy, don’t fight it. Turn those areas into plant beds. You want the first impression to reflect to the buyer that the front landscape/garden needs no additional work. Even if you have no extra funds to fill the new plant bed with shrubs, it is better than looking at unhealthy turf. An affordable way to add interest is placing a bench in the middle, create a 3′ wide path of light, cedar mulch to the seating area and mulch the rest of the bed with pine needles or mini nuggets. Two different mulches will add contrast and interest to the space at a very low cost.

A fresh application of mulch is an affordable way to spruce up the front garden. Pine needles are the least expensive with one bale covering a 5’x5′ area. The needles should be a nice amber color and be tucked in where they meet the grassy areas. A beveled edge can be created by a spade shovel to define plants beds and turf areas adding a crisp, manicured look.

Existing shrubs and trees should be in good condition. Prune out any unhealthy limbs and make sure the top of the shrubs do not exceed the bottom of the front windows. There should also be at least 1 foot between the shrub and the house. This is a safety and maintenance issue for the potential buyer.

If you’ve added semi-permanent structures such as a fence bordering the front walk, a birdhouse on a 4×4 post, or a flag-pole in the middle of the lawn you may want to remove these personal touches in order to keep it clean and simple. These additions could be viewed as non-functioning eye sores to the new home buyer. It is better to keep the front landscape free of clutter with minimal touches of personality. Ultimately, you are looking for another family to move in, so try not to dominate the landscape with your favorite things. It is acceptable to add a few personal touches that you can take with you.

Pots flanking the front entryway are a good addition for a splash of color and hint of charm that can easily be removed. It is always best to go bigger with the pot size than going smaller. You can either do one pot on either side of the front door or group 3 of various sizes on both sides. By grouping 3 different sized pots you are creating a more relaxed, informal style. If you have a more formal and manicured front garden, you will want to place 2 symmetrical pots on either side of the door and insert an evergreen shrubs. Keeping the shrubs in the pots you purchased them in will make packing up easier when you sell your home.

Potential buyers are going to drive by in the evening hours to witness what happens in your neighborhood after the sun sets. A low cost lighting system can be purchased from your local hardware store and taken with you when you leave. Add the up lights to accent a tree, statuary or exterior home details to liven the landscape in the evening hours. It is not recommended to line up lights in a plane runway style or the use of holiday lights.

It is encouraging to hear potential buyers saying, “I can put my hammock between those 2 trees” or “I am going to create a wildflower bed in that natural area”. Put the needs of the buyer before the needs of yourself when selling your home. Let your home be the vision of someone else’s dream and sell, sell, sell.

Five Reasons Why Davao City in the Philippines Is a Nice Place to Retire

There is a growing trend of people seeking to spend their retirement abroad. The reasons for this trend are diverse. Part of the allure is monetary. The living costs are cheaper but there are others too. There are some very attractive reasons why you might want to retire in Davao City.

Point 1 – The weather in the Philippines is tropical. That definitely means a person can forget about shoveling snow and bundling up in heavy winter clothes. Older people may also appreciate the lack of cold that stiffens the joints and brings on a chill that seems to last for months. The weather is part of the overall reason I’m suggesting Davao over other Philippine cities. It’s location deep in the Davao Gulf gives Davao City natural sheltering from the severe tropical storms that can batter the other areas. Should you choose to invest in some nice Davao City real estate for your retirement home, your investment could weather through comfortably too.

Point 2 – The much lower cost of living in some parts of Asia in general can help a fixed income stretch much further and even into the luxury range. Hiring people for regular cleaning or gardening chores in the West can be very costly but the same is priced more reasonably in the Philippines.

Point 3 – Another attractive factor in favor of retiring in Davao is the intrinsic value of property investments. A person can buy retirement real estate in the Philippines for a fraction of what they would have to pay for a similar property either in North America or other established retirement destinations. With the trend of more people seeking invest in Davao City for retirement or extended stay vacations there, the value is more likely to rise than it is to decline.

Point 4 – Having a stable government keeps business moderately secure. My bias is perhaps surfacing a bit as I had to bite my tongue when I said the words ‘stable’ and ‘government’ together in one sentence. Let’s just say the governance of the Philippines is as stable as you’ll find almost anywhere else. The laws in the Philippines regarding foreign ownership of property is more relaxed than in other places.

Point 5 – Filipino people are awesome. Life in Davao City isn’t all about money like it’s come to be in the over-developed west. There is a relaxed lifestyle there that is refreshing and that fact alone is likely the biggest reason why the trend of older people coming to retire or enjoy an extended vacation in Davao City and elsewhere in the Philippines is rising.

There are other great reasons to retire in Davao City. These are just five of them.

Functions of Mechanical Tools and Equipments Used for Construction

A construction site usually has many mechanical tools and equipments in the scene, each having a specific and important function to perform. The main purpose of using mechanical tools like cement mixers is to significantly lower down the work load of the construction site workers.

These machine based tools and equipments also enable fast construction works that save time as well as construction costs. It is the result of using these powerful tools that even the biggest construction projects are completed with ease and within the designated deadlines. For the rest of the discussion, you can learn about the functionality of cement mixers and other construction site mechanical tools.

Cement or Concrete Mixers

Concrete is an important constituent required for the construction work. Cement mixers are the mechanical tools used for the preparation of concrete by mixing cement, sand and water. The function of these tools is to make concrete ready on the construction site so that it can be used for construction before hardening. These mixers have wheels that make them easy to be transported to different parts of construction sites. Concrete mixing transportation trucks are the advanced versions of these mixers.


Forklift is a useful construction site mechanical equipment type which is also known by many names like lift truck, trailer loader, tow motor and fork truck. An important function of these trucks is to lift the construction materials. They are also used for the transportation of these materials. Some of the common forklift designs include hand pallet truck, rider stacker, side loader, rider stacker and others.


Just like cement mixers and forklifts, loaders too are the important mechanical tools that are a part of any construction project. As the name suggests, these equipments are used to load different construction materials like asphalt, gravel, sand, rock and debris to other types of mechanical equipments. Dump tucks, for example, are loaded with debris, dirt or other waste materials using loaders. Some of the popular designs of these equipments include armored wheel loaders, tractor front loaders and skid loaders.


In order to lift and move abnormally heavy loads, cranes are the befitting equipments one can see at different construction sites. It is one machine which makes use of many small mechanical tools to perform its functions. Lever, pulley and hydraulic cylinder are among the small machines that enable a crane to work. There are numerous types of cranes, each designed to perform for different projects related to construction industry.

Backhoe Loaders

Small construction projects require small sized cement mixers and loaders. Backhoe loaders are the mechanical equipments used for building a small house or repairing a road or any other similar type of project. Transportation of building materials, paving roads and demolition of small structures are among the functions performed by these machines.

Skid steer, excavators, crawlers, road rollers and many other mechanical tools and equipments are used in conjunction with cement mixers, cranes and other aforementioned machines to make task easier at construction sites. It is important that all these importance machines are purchased carefully and only from reputed manufacturers and suppliers.

21 Tips for Being a Master Socialite

I’m going to share some of the methods and a few easy tricks for increasing your social proof and mystery quotient. Including how to remember people’s names, how to turn cockiness into charisma, 4 easy tips that makes you seem much more genuine, how to talk about what you do, how to make a very memorable impression when meeting women, how to get invited and how to get on guest list.

Get invited

Being invited to swanky parties and events is easier in this day of age now than ever before, go on Facebook or LinkedIn and join the groups in our city related to the following.

  • Entertainment
  • Nightlife
  • Entrepreneurship
  • Professional Networking

Initially you may have to pay the minimal cover charge, consider this an investment in your social proof. As you get to know the organizers better they will hook you up. Initially you may not know anyone at the events, this is ok, go anyway bring a friend if you have someone who will go with you.

Get on guest list

Guest list is primarily a tool that event marketers use to get people in the door. Shot the event marketer a text message, email or social media message asking…

Who do I need to sweet talk to get on guest list?

Obviously its them and in my experience the vast majority of the time they are happy to hook you up. Ask for at least a +4 on guest list. That way you can invite you friends (who don’t know the way this system works) and tell them to drop your name at the door. This is another great way of increasing social proof.

There are instances when a guest list is not a marketing tool and when the door cover is major revenue center for the event organizers. In these cases you should just pay the cover to show your support for the event or contact the event organizer about getting involved, more on this below.

Be involved with the event, marginally

Being the primary coordinator of an event or party is a pain in the ass & takes a lot of work. Instead look for events or parties that you can get involved in marginally as a sponsor of some sort, host or affiliate promoter. Being involved immediately gives you higher authority at the event. When people ask about your involvement insist that you are no one important, even though it’s obvious that you are. This makes you come across as very personable and genuine.

Know the owner

Knowing the owner of the venue immediately drastically increases your social proof. In my experience most venue owners are easy to meet and establish a friendly rapport with, here’s a very easy way to do it.

When you get good service at a bar or venue (If you are a socialite you should be going to frequenting venues that provide excellent service) ask to see the owner. When the owner comes over let them know that you experienced great service and will be coming back. Then make sure you give the owner your business card. Tell the owner you will be writing them a good review on or Google local, this is golden to the ears of a venue owner. They will be tripping over themselves next time you arrive at their venue to give you great service & drinks on the house.

For even more social proof introduce people to the owner, this makes them feel really special.

Drink Patron Red bull

This cocktail of potent premium liquid is very unique and makes you come across as unique and slightly adventuresome. It also gives you economic proof because everyone knows it’s not a cheap drink.

Turn your cockiness into charisma

Act slightly aloof but at the same time show a lot of interest in other people. The world is full of boring people with over inflated egos, if you are also friendly you come across as one of those rare people who actually deserve to be a little cocky. A master socialite is magnanimous, meaning that people are drawn to them because they make them feel great. The next 4 tips will explain how to do this.

Remember people’s names

The vast majority of people are terrible at this, remembering people’s names can do wonders for you in the social scene. There’s a simple memory-association method that makes it a breeze

When you meet people try to visualize something physical that sounds like their name does, go with the 1st thing that comes to mind, no matter how ridiculous… Now visualize that thing on the most prominent part of their face or physique. Here’s an table that breaks this down.

Name: Chris

Sounds Like: Christ visualizea cross

Visualization: Visualize a cross on Chris’s large nose

Name: Betty

Sounds Like: a beet

Visualization: Visualize a beet on betty’s fat checks

Name: Alex

Sounds Like: a-lex visualizea Lexus

Visualization: Visualize a Lexus logo on Alex’s large adams apple

Name: Richard

Sounds Like: Richard the Lionheart the crusader

Visualization: Visualize Richard as a crusader

Initially you will not be very good at this but if you make it point to try it on everyone you meet after a while it will become completely second nature to you and everyone will be very impressed with your seemingly effortless ability to remember names.

Tip: After you do the visualization technique make sure to use their name at least twice in the first 5 minutes of conversation. This further helps you to remember their name and also makes you seem much more genuine.

Learn how people know each other

When it’s obvious that people are friends, ask how they know each other. Here’s my favorite line

‘How do you know this character’

The knowledge about how people are connected will frequently be useful to you later on as well.

Tell me something interesting about yourself’

This is a golden line, everyone (worth talking too) has those interesting things about themselves that they don’t get to share nearly as much as they would like to. I’ve found this information is also very useful later.

Compliment people publicly

As you notice praiseworthy or interesting qualities of your friends and acquaintances wait until you are in a public setting in front of other people to compliment them. This makes you seem magnanimous and gives you that rare quality of charisma.

Kiss women’s hands

When you meet a friendly, single woman, in a slightly less than professional setting do this.

  1. As you shake her hand and cup you other hand over hers.
  2. Then lift her hand up and kiss the back of her hand.
  3. Make sure your lips are slightly and look into her eyes as you kiss her hand

Very bondesque, very few men are confident enough to do this.

Give everyone a business card

After you meet anyone hand them a business card, this makes it clear that you are at least important enough to have a business card and it also sets you up as the dominant one in the conversation. I use this simple line ‘Here’s my card, I give people cards. I’ll trade you if you got one!‘. Sometimes giving someone a card can turn a boring conversation into a lead generation opportunity when they learn what you do.

Invitation Etiquette

Whether it’s a phone call, a text message, an email or social media message only directly invite people once to a party. After that make sure that their friends (your mutual friends) are inviting them. The philosophy behind this comes from marketing 101, the more times and different media that people hear about your party through the more likely they are to come.

Look good…

The reality is that we live in a world where people make a lot of judgments about you based upon the way you look, this is especially true in the socialite scene.

Gents – Wear a suit, yeah I know suits aren’t terribly comfortable but a suit makes a loud clear statement, I do things important enough in life that I wear a suit. Unless it’s a really swanky function I do not recommend a tie though. I recommend leaving the top bottom on the suit undone, women find this look very sexy. I recommend buying your suits at Express for Men where they run around $300, I bought a suit about 4 years ago at there. I’m amazed at the amount of compliments I get on it after all the drinks that have been spilled on it and all the adventures it’s been through over time.

Ladies – I’d recommend a cocktail dress, there is truly no better way to strike the delicate balance between sexy and classy than with a cocktail dress. If it’s more a business setting a lady suit is fine. Also get yourself a small purse for when you are going out. Women who are out socializing with large purses are just clumsy looking.

Talking about what you do

The mark of a master socialite is someone who can hold an engaging conversation without telling people right away what you do for work or business. The trick is to carry on the conversation and hint that you do something important or interesting without revealing exactly what you or how much money you make. This is how to increase you mystery quotient.

If it’s a flirtatious conversation, be ambiguous yet funny

What I do is incredibly interesting, I’m very good at and I’m passionate about it. If you get me started I will go all night. Let’s talk about… (something humorous, something else)

I sell dreams

Mention something related to work but then change the subject

I have a client… who does that

I read/wrote a blog/article/interview etc on that topic

If it’s a professional, networking kind of conversation you should have a well prepared elevator speech (This is a pitch of what you do that you could make in less than 60 seconds, or approximately the duration of an elevator ride). I also like the line…

I dable…

Also if you meet someone who is in your same industry, if you can pull it off in a humorous way

Q: So what do you do?

A: Well, I compete with you!

Swing dance

Swing dancing is a great way to lively up an event. If no one is dancing and you want to get the party started it’s NOT a good idea to start by bump & grinding on the dancefloor. Grab somebody and by doing a few moves. Swing dancing established you as someone who is fun, confident, classy and talented. If you don’t know how to swing dance watch this video for some ideas of fun, easy moves. Search on Youtube: Swing Dancing to learn some easy moves.

Bring gum

A lot of socialite activities (Eating, drinking, smoking) make your breath stink. So bring gum and also offer it to other people. FYI: If you buy your gum in large packs in the candy aisle of a grocery store it’s about 1/3 the cost of buying individual packs at the register or at gas station.

If you smoke…

Bum cigarettes from people. Here’s why, smoking is a very social activity and it’s an awesome ice breaker. When you bum cigarettes from a stranger use this line

Excuse me, I’m trying to start(smoking) do you mind if I bum a cigarette from you?

This is a hilarious yet slightly horrific thing to say so people will quickly forget whatever irritation they have with you for bumming their cigarettes.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure you have gum and a drink after you smoke, that way you cover your nasty cigarette breath. FYI: Nonsmokers find conversations with smokers very unpleasant, especially if you are a few inches away from each other in a loud nightclub.

Propose a Toast

When you are with a group of three propose a toast to celebrate your camaraderie. The ideal time to do this is after something funny has been said or at a high energy moment in the conversation. I personally recommend proposing using the most clever cocktail toast ever (Google it).

Give interesting facts

A socialite punctuates their conversations with poignant, relevant facts. If you have a low level of interesting facts I would suggest spending a five minutes every day surfing these websites

Use social media

I list this at the bottom because it should be obvious. Socialites are very well connected and popular on the internet. Go on Facebook and look for groups and pages in your city relating to

  • Entertainment
  • Nightlife
  • Entrepreneurship
  • Professional Networking

Join these groups and start by making friends with admin or creator of the group. Then start to make more friends with the other members. As you get more connected within this group more of its members will start friend requesting you! Repeat this process with other groups. If you are feeling especially bold start your own group/fan page & categorize under on the interest areas I have listed above. Now people will really be friend requesting you!

Acrow Prop Safe Installation Guide

Acrow Props are an extremely versatile product which can be found on many construction sites. They are commonly used on building sites to provide a quick and simple method of providing temporary support for formwork for reinforced concrete floors and beams. Acrow props are equally useful as raking shores to support formwork for columns, walls and staircases. They are invaluable in repair work, demolition or for replacing a permanent support, for supporting canopies, lintels and the like while brick work or concrete is setting.

Acrow props consist of two circular steel tubes, an inner tube with a top plate that slides up and down freely inside an outer tube which is attached to the base plate. The inner tube has holes down its length so that you can quickly extend the inner tube to just below the desired height and insert a steel pin to lock in that length. To extend the prop to the correct height the top of the outer tube is threaded and a collar, which is similar to a nut on a bolt, picks up and supports the steel pin. So by rotating the collar and moving it up it extends the inner prop. This allows you to achieve the exact height required.

The ‘Acrow Prop Safe Installation Guide’ gives you a checklist of what to check before you even start and then shows you what you need to check to ensure the safe installation of your acrow props. Once installed there is a list of items that need to be checked regularly to ensure the continued safe performance of your acrow prop installation and then finishes off with a checklist for their safe removal.

Pre-installation Checklist

  • Start by planning the job. Make sure you have the right number and sizes of props. Inspect the site and if necessary mark out the prop locations.
  • Have you correctly selected the right sized props for the job? Do you have enough to support the weight? Never exceed the safe working load (SWL) for your specific size props. Refer to the manufacturers load charts. If unsure, consult your Engineer or other responsible person, who will consider the weight of the overhead structure that is to be supported and work out the correct size and quantity.
  • It is the responsibility of the user to check the props each time before they start work. When inspecting the props, items to check include:-
    • Check that the inner and outer tubes are straight and that they slide easily.
    • Check to ensure that the collar rotates freely around the thread and that the tread is not damaged or blocked.
    • Check to ensure that there is no damage to the pin. If the pin is secured by a chain, make sure that it is still attached. If it is fitted with a wrap around pin then it does not need to be secured by a chain. Only use the original pin, do not use any other pin.
  • Do Not try and repair any faulty prop. If a prop is faulty it should be immediately tagged and isolated and is not to be used.

Installation Checklist

  • Warning props which are designed to be used in compression CANNOT be used to in tension.
  • Always wear the appropriate safety equipment when using this equipment.
  • Ensure that the work area is cordoned off to prevent public access, only essential people should work in the area.
  • Ensure that the props are installed by qualified people who have the necessary knowledge and experience to do the job safely.
  • It is important that the prop is installed vertical to ensure that it can support its specified load. Props must never be used more than 1.5 degrees off vertical as this can substantially decrease its capacity. This is about 50 mm (2 inches) out of true vertical for every 1.8m (6 feet) of length.
  • Make sure that the base plate and top plate of your prop is bearing directly on the surface. Ensure also that the floor surface and roof surface are sturdy enough to support the weight that will be placed upon it.
  • When props are bearing on a flexible surface, such as a gravel surface, each prop should stand on a timber soleplate or equivalent. A timber soleplate should be at least 225mm (9 inches) wide by 38mm (1.5 inches) thick. It should be long enough to project at least 300mm (1 foot) either side of the prop’s base plate. A soleplate can also be used above the head plate to help spread the load if required. If you are unsure or have any doubts please refer to your engineer or other competent person.
  • Acrow props come in 5 different sizes so Do not use props that are too short by making up the gap with timber. Always use the correct length Acrow prop.

Post Installation Checklist

  • Props left to support a curing slab can loosen up with time. As the slab cures it naturally contracts which can cause the prop to loosen up so it is recommended that they be inspected by a competent person and retightened regularly.
  • As a minimum, all props must be inspected at least once a week.
  • Ensure that the area safe from the general public if props are to be left in position unattended.
  • Do not string or tie anything to the props.

Prop Removal Checklist

  • Start by planning the job.
  • Always wear the appropriate safety equipment when using this equipment.
  • Ensure that the work area is cordoned off to prevent public access, only essential people should work in the area.
  • Ensure that the props are removed by qualified people who have the necessary knowledge and experience to do the job safely
  • Do not remove or adjust any prop until you are certain that it is safe to do so.
  • Always return the equipment to the hire company in a clean condition.

Always seek professional advice before undertaking any propping / shoring projects. A propping job that goes wrong can be disastrous, endanger lives and be an extremely expensive exercise to repair.

Tips for Staying Warm in the Bleachers

Your body is designed to burn food for energy and produces heat from within. So, don’t forget to eat! If your body is getting cold, it will sacrifice your feet and hands to save its life. Ever wonder why your feet and hands are the first to get cold?! Your body loses heat in 5 ways – radiation, convection, conduction, respiration and evaporation.

  1. Radiation: Just as a wood stove radiates heat into a room, your body radiates heat into the air. The more insulation you put around it, the loss of heat is decreased.
  2. Convection is moving air. Wind blowing through your sweater or around your jacket is heat lost through convection. Windproof outer layers will help prevent heat loss.
  3. Sitting on some cold bleachers at a football game, grabbing a ski pole, or just catching a cold zipper on your neck, are all heat loss by conduction.
  4. Evaporation is a very efficient cooling process.

6 Tips for Staying Warm at a Sporting Event:

  • Check weather conditions before heading outside. Watch your local weekly weather forecast to make it easy to prepare in advance.
  • Dress appropriately. If you are going to be in the extreme cold, wear as many layers of warm clothing as possible. If it’s mildly cold, try to dress in just a few layers and pack an extra coat or sweater in case the temperature drops.
  • Be prepared for all conditions. Keep an umbrella, poncho or warm jacket with you. Have an indoor, heated place to go… you don’t want to be stuck outside if the weather conditions become extreme.
  • Wear waterproof shoes or boots with a good grip. If your feet are cold and wet, it won’t matter how well the rest of your body is bundled up. You will still be miserable!
  • Wear gloves and/or mittens and long thick socks. These protect your hands and feet, which are the hardest places to keep warm blood flowing. Try wearing thinner gloves underneath heavier winter gloves for extra warmth.
  • Pack warm food. Sometimes all you need in chilly conditions is hot food or drink. Carry a thermos with hot drinks, soups, or noodles. Warm food and drink will warm you inside and keep your strength up.

Signs and Symptoms of Hypothermia: shivering, shallow breathing, confusion, exhaustion, slurred speech, loss of coordination, weak pulse, unconsciousness (in severe cases)

Treatment of Hypothermia: remove any wet clothing, protect individual against the wind, move to a warm shelter as soon as possible, rewarm the individual with extra clothing, take the person’s temperature if a thermometer is available, offer warm liquids (avoid alcohol or caffeine).

Food Safety Tips You Can Do at Home to Minimize the Risk of Food Poisoning

Food Preparation Safety


Always refrigerate perishable food within 2 hours.

Refrigerate within 1 hour when the temperature is above 90F.

At home, place meat, poultry, and seafood in the refrigerator immediately.

Freeze poultry and ground meat that won’t be used in 1 or 2 days; freeze other meat within 4 to 5 days.

Defrost Safely

Completely defrost meat and poultry before grilling so it cooks more evenly.

Use the refrigerator for slow, safe thawing or thaw sealed packages in cold water.

You can microwave to defrost if the food will be placed immediately on the grill.

Safe Food Preparation

To prevent food borne illness, don’t use the same platter and utensils for raw and cooked meat and poultry. Harmful bacteria present in raw meat and poultry and their juices can contaminate safely cooked food.

Only use knives and cutting utensils for one thing, either for meat or for vegetables. Thereafter, the utensils should be thoroughly washed.

NEVER place the grilled meat back on the dish or board on which the raw meat was placed, as this has blood and juices from the raw meat.

NEVER use knives or dishes that have been used for the raw meat for the grilled meat, too.

Clean all counters and cooking surfaces, with hot soapy water before use.

Clean all cutting boards with hot soapy water before use.

Avoid using the same plate for raw and cooked food.

Marinade in the refrigerator and discard the marinade immediately after use.

Use a separate brush one for marinating and another for basting cooked meat.


Marinate food in the refrigerator, not on the counter.

Discard the marinade immediately after use.

If some of the marinade is to be used as a sauce on the cooked food, reserve a portion of the marinade before putting raw meat and poultry in it. However, if the marinade used on raw meat or poultry is to be reused, make sure to let it come to a boil first to destroy any harmful bacteria.

Safe Food Handling

Keep all raw and cooked food separate and keep it “wrapped and refrigerated”.

Use separate BBQ utensils when handling raw and cooked food.

Make sure frozen meat is thoroughly thawed (unless otherwise stated) before cooking and do not refreeze once thawed.

Safe Cooking

Cook thoroughly. Cook food to a safe minimum internal temperature to destroy harmful bacteria. The only way to be sure foods are cooked to a high enough temperature to kill harmful bacteria is to use an accurate digital instant-read thermometer. Thermometer use to ensure proper cooking temperature is especially important for those who cook or serve ground beef patties to people most at risk for food borne. Those most at risk include young children, the elderly, and those with compromised immune systems.

Unless you are in a big hurry or you like for your meat to be dry, do not press on it. You will just be squeezing out all those wonderful juices. Additionally, squeezing the juices on the coals and crating smoke is not healthy.

Meat and poultry cooked on a grill often browns very fast on the outside. Make sure the meat is thoroughly cooked before serving. Only large whole pieces of meat may be a bit pinkish inside. Sliced or smaller pieces of meat should be well done.

Ground meat, because of the grinding process is typically more exposed to harmful pathogens. Hamburgers made of ground beef should reach 160ºF. Color is not a reliable indicator that ground beef patties have been cooked to a temperature high enough to kill harmful bacteria such as E. coli O157:H7. Eating a pink or red ground beef patty without first verifying that the safe temperature of 160ºF has been reached is a significant risk factor for food borne illness. When a ground beef patty is cooked to 160ºF throughout, it can be safe and juicy, regardless of color.

Beef, veal, and lamb steaks, roasts and chops can be cooked to 145ºF.

All cuts of pork should reach 160ºF

All poultry should reach a minimum of 165ºF

All cuts of pork should be cooked to 160ºF throughout.

Keep Hot Food Hot

After cooking meat and poultry on the grill, keep it hot until served – at 140ºF or warmer.

Keep cooked meats hot by setting them to the side of the grill rack, not directly over the coals where they could overcook.

At home, the cooked meat can be kept hot in a warm oven (approximately 200ºF), in a chafing dish or slow cooker, or on a warming tray.

Serving the Food

When taking food off the grill, use a clean platter. Don’t put cooked food on the same platter that held raw meat or poultry. Any harmful bacteria present in the raw meat juices could contaminate safely cooked food. In hot weather (above 90ºF), food should never sit out for more than 1 hour.


When reheating fully cooked meats like hot dogs, grill to 165ºF or until steaming hot.


Refrigerate any leftovers promptly in shallow containers.

Discard any food left out more than 2 hours (1 hour if temperatures are above 90ºF).

Food Storage

Keep meat and poultry refrigerated until ready to use.

Only take out the meat and poultry that will immediately be placed on the grill.

Store the meat on an even tray and only take the meat out of the refrigerator when the barbecue is ready.

If a large portion of meat is to be used, try to take out only the amount that fits on the grill and grill the rest later.

Meat and poultry can be marinated for several hours or days to tenderize or add flavor.

Seven Cover Reviews of the Best Travel Trailer Covers Sold on the Internet and Retail Stores

Usually an outdoor enthusiasts begins to show interest in a travel trailer when they feel that they have outgrown the “sleeping in the outdoors or tent” phase and are ready to enjoy the luxuries of home and yet still have that feeling of living & camping outside by the ocean or lake or in the mountains or desert. Purchasing a travel trailer is an investment that the RV owner hopes will last for many years and numerous excursions. Travel trailers can and will last for many years, sometimes decades. The interior will keep its looks as long as it is protected from sunlight exposure. If an RV is left uncovered the sun’s UV rays will beat down on the camper and fade the interior upholstery, curtains, blinds, carpets, and bedding. The exterior will show its age a great deal faster than the interior. In only a matter of years a travel trailer that is left unprotected from the weather, will exhibit quick and steady exterior damage when the decals fade, crack, spilt and eventually wear off. The plastic window and door seals will turn gray to black in just a year. The welded seams that connect the sides will expand and contract with every snow fall because freezing/melting cycle that occurs when the snow melts on the roof crevices but remain in the crevice, then re-freezes in the tiny, microscopic crevices. These seams will expand inevitably with the freeze cycle that causes a widening of the connecting seams. This constant cycle of water freezing, melting and re-freezing will eventually cause problems with the roof which results in very costly repairs.

The easiest way to prevent the aging process on your travel trailer is to cover it with the best RV cover for the area in which the travel trailer will be stored and for the time in which you will be storing your camping trailer. With so many RV covers on the market how are you going to be able to find the cover that you need?

For the most part, all of the deluxe RV storage covers discussed in this article are sold on the Internet (as well as Walmart, Sears, and Cabelas) and are basically made of the same material (polypropylene) with few differences. Advertised as deluxe winter snow covers these travel trailer RV covers, (Expedition, ADCO, PolyPro 3, Camco and CoverKing) are generally made of triple-layered breathable non-woven polypropylene. The roof/top of the cover is made to accommodate the AC on the roof and is usually large enough to extend over the sides to protect the awning. At the joining seams where the roofing top meets the single layer of polypropylene sides there are vent flaps that allow the cover “to breathe”. These vents prevent wind friction and moisture buildup that would cause mold and mildew to develop. The sides have several long zippered entry panels that will allow you access to your travel trailer during the storage period. The entire cover is usually secured with an integrated tie-down strap system with adjustable click-close buckles and tension panel flaps in the front and back of the travel trailer that reduce cover stress when tightening or loosening the straps on the cover. This gives the RV cover a semi-custom fit. The major differences between all of these winter snow covers comes in the price and the length of the warranty of the product.

Winter Covers for Travel Trailers 20-33 ft Cost & Warranty

Expedition by Eevelle Cost: $205 – $321 Warranty: 3 years

ADCO Designer made with Tyvek Cost: $262 – $365 Warranty: 2 years

Poly Pro 3 by Classic Accessories Cost: $273 – $341 Warranty: 3 years

Camco Ultraguard Cost: $262 – $415 Warranty: 2 years

CoverKing 600 Denier Presidium Cost: $375 – $575 Warranty: Repair for 1yr

When a travel trailer is stored through the summer in the extreme Southeast and Southwest, the cover must be made from an extremely rugged durable woven material. Travel trailers that are in the sun year-round must have a cover with ultimate UV protection. Winter snow covers (like the Expedition, PolyPro 3, Camco Ultraguard, CoverKing Presidium & the Tyvek ADCO cover) disintegrate within a few short months if they are used to protect the RV through the summer. The non-woven fabric cannot stand up to the intense UV rays in this area of the United States. There are two RV covers made of woven material. The first cover that is made with the newest technology in UV block protection is called the PermaPro RV cover made by Classic Accessories. This RV cover is backed by the newest technology in extra strength UV block protection. The PermaPro cover is made of a light weight extra strength ripstop fabric that is tear resistant with nylon reinforcements in the material. The fabric resembles that used in parachutes and athletic wear. This water-repellent fabric repels rain and snow to make it an all season protective RV cover. This travel trailer cover ranges in cost from $375 – $505 and is backed by a four-year warranty.

The Goldline RV cover sold by Eevelle has long been recognized as the best RV cover by customers and dealers alike. The Goldline RV covers are designed to outperform every other RV cover in all the critical categories of RV protection- strength, durability, water repellency, etc. The extra strength yet supple Goldline Tru-weave woven fabric can handle the strongest winds and can stand up to the extreme UV rays of the sun as well as being a water-repellent rain & snow semi-custom storage cover. This travel trailer cover ranges in cost from $455 – $578 and is backed by a five-year warranty. The Goldline is also the only RV cover made for small travel trailers (10 – 20 ft.) as well as the extremely large ones (up to 46 ft. long).

PermaPro and Goldline are the only extra strength travel trailer covers that can be used as summer storage covers. Their woven design stands up to the winds that accompany winter and foretell the change of seasons. Both of these covers are truly all season RV covers that will protect the investment you made into your travel trailer as well as all the upcoming vacations & excursions you will take well into the next several years.