Reading Blueprints – 15 Tips to Help You Understand Drawings, Elevations and Floor Plans

Blueprints are nothing more than copies of the final plans drawn up for the home owners’ approval. Highly detailed, these documents contain a wealth of information. Typically, a blueprint package includes a set of drawings called elevations, illustrating exterior and interior walls. But that’s not all. The package contains other drawings. One is of your building site, and another drawing illustrates the foundation of the house. The reflected ceiling plan reveals where light fixtures are to be placed.

In addition, each blueprint incorporates a materials list with sizes and quantities of all necessary components required to construct the building features. This information enables the contractor to compile building costs. There is one additional category of blueprints-the floorplans-with which people are probably the most familiar. Here’s an insider’s guide to reading the plans to your dream home.

1. Scale and dimensions are clearly indicated.

The scale of blueprints may be 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch to the foot. Whatever the scale, it will be noted in one of the lower corners of the blueprint. All blueprints to the house are drawn to the same scale. Dimensions are noted in feet and inches. In most cases, the length and width of all the exterior walls are shown in addition to dimensions of each room. With this information in hand, you can easily determine which rooms are best sized for various family activities. You can also plan for the arrangement of furnishings.

2. Exterior walls are represented by thick parallel lines, and interior walls are represented by thinner lines.

The placement of the walls, particularly the decisions you make regarding the interior partition walls, greatly affect the layout of your home. And, if you can understand the exact placement when you first receive the blueprints, you’ll likely make fewer changes as the process evolves, cutting down on unnecessary and unforeseen expenses to your project.

3. Rooms are clearly labeled by function- kitchen, living, dining, etc.

Built-in items within rooms also are presented in a logical fashion. For example, as you study the documents, fireplaces, closets and built-ins become obvious. Also apparent are the placement of kitchen and bathroom fixtures, counters, sinks, cabinetry and kitchen appliances.

4. It’s easy to determine ceiling configurations and two-story rooms.

A series of parallel dashes across a room denotes a ceiling beam; an arrow accompanied by the word “sloped” marks a cathedral ceiling. A double-height room is easy to spot. The blueprint of the lower level bears the notation “open to above” and the upper level “open to below.”

5. Doors are represented by a straight line.

When you study the blueprint of the floorplan, pretend that you are walking through the actual house. Visualize the two-dimensional blueprints in a three-dimensional form. This technique helps you transform the data and symbols into something more real. A good place to start is at the entryway. From there, you can clearly see the overall organization of the home’s interior. In houses designed today, rooms are placed into one of three zones dedicated to living (family room, dining room and living room), work (kitchen, laundry and utility rooms) or sleeping (bedrooms and corresponding bathrooms). They appear as if open with a thinner, curving line showing the space required for them to close.

French doors have two straight and two curved lines. Two overlapping sets of straight lines is the symbol for sliding glass doors. Parallel solid lines within walls are windows. Like doors, overlapping lines indicate sliding window units. As you study the placement of windows and doors, you can determine if they will permit good ventilation and natural lighting of the interior, as well as make the most of exterior views and provide sufficient access to the outdoors.

6. On the blueprints of a two-story house, you will encounter a staircase, revealed by a group of parallel lines.

The number of lines is equal to the number of steps. The lines are accompanied by arrows. Those labeled “up” mean that the staircase leads to a higher level; conversely, those labeled “down” lead to a lower level.

7. Letters on the drawings serve as keys to the information listed in the margins.

For example, on the blueprint of the floorplan, a series of circled letters beginning with “A” refer to the types of doors selected. This “door schedule,” as it is called, coordinates the location of each door, as well as the style and size. A closet door, for example, has a circled letter at the proper place on the blueprint. In reading the blueprint, the corresponding margin notation may read something like “2′-0″ solid core flush door, paint-grade veneer.”

8. Openings on the blueprint for windows bear a number within a circle.

This marking refers to the list of window styles and sizes cited in the window schedule in the blueprint margin. As an example, a bathroom window may bear the designation of “1” in a circle. Looking at the window schedule, the circled 1 may be listed as a “3’0″ x 2’10” awning window.”

9. The same approach applies to electrical symbols.

Here are some common examples: A capital “S” stands for a wall switch that controls an overhead light fixture. A capital “S” with a subscript “3” refers to a three-way wall switch. A capital “J” in a box marks the location of a junction box. A capital “L” in a circle is the site of an exterior light fixture. A triangle indicates the location of a telephone receptacle.

10. Large letters accompanied by carets (>) pointing toward each wall refer to an elevation, or drawing, of the wall as it will appear when built.

An exterior elevation is illustrated by a large letter and a 90-degree, angled line to the side.

11. The placement of appliances and fixtures is easy to determine.

The symbol for a kitchen range or cooktop is four circles within a square. Bird’s-eye drawings are used to represent the refrigerator, kitchen sink, bath sinks, toilets and showers. In the kitchen, a series of dashes accompanied by the notation “DW” mark the location of an undercounter dishwasher. Look carefully to see that the appliances have been placed where you want them. Again, visualize yourself inside of the home, preparing meals (or doing the dishes).

12. Tile flooring also is easy to spot.

It is illustrated by an expanse of small squares in the bathroom or in front of a fireplace drawing.

13. Elevations represent how the walls of the house will appear when built.

Interior wall elevations include drawings of fireplaces, cabinets and shelving, windows, doors and other desired built-in elements. Exterior elevations note the location of windows, doors and other items such as roof eaves.

14. Accompanying the elevations may be some drawings which outline the construction details.

Frequently, you’ll find drawings outlining the configuration of exterior corners. Or, you may be given the foundation footings and column bases, indicating depths and widths.

15. Sections provide a see-through representation of the house.

You can visually see how various elements of the house will align when construction is completed. This is helpful in visualizing porticos and other details of the facade, as well as outdoor decks, arcades and any decorative aspects. If this seems too overwhelming, don’t try to absorb all of the information that blueprints provide at one sitting. Study them in a leisurely manner, allowing the house to reveal itself to you gradually over time. Then, when you have a firm idea of what your new log home will look like and how it will function, you’ll have much more confidence in your leap of faith to start building.

SDRAM, DDR, DDR2, DDR3, SODIMM, MicroDIMM, Pins, Timings and CAS Latency Made Easy!

You maybe feeling somewhat baffled by the various acronyms you see on websites selling laptop memory. Acronyms like SDRAM, DDR, DDR2, DDR3, SODIMM, MicroDIMM, pins and CAS Latency might be fine and dandy for all the computers gurus out there but what if you’re the 98% of us just out to upgrade your laptop and aren’t computer savvy? Well you know what, we hear you – in fact we’ll take action to prove it! While we can’t promise to make you a memory genius via what follows below, we do very much believe we can genuinely help. Ready to wipe some of that haze and get you on the right path to a successful laptop memory upgrade? Read on!

SDRAM, DDR, DDR2 and DDR3

All the above, SDRAM, DDR, DDR2 and DDR3 are in themselves memory technologies. They differ in their age, speed, operating voltage and timings if to simplify things somewhat. Despite only SDRAM containing the RAM acronym, all are in fact RAM albeit of type SDRAM, DDR, DDR2 and DDR3. RAM in fact stands for Random Access Memory and is often used as an alternative to saying “memory”. You’re much more likely to see them written without the “RAM” component in their name but just remember that if you ever spot DDR RAM, DDR2 RAM or DDR3 RAM then it’s the exact same thing as DDR, DDR2 and DDR3. SDRAM is always written in a single form so if you ever see any source referencing SDRAM RAM then let’s just say whoever wrote it is a little keen on rewriting history.

Because SDRAM, DDR, DDR2 and DDR3 are all memory (or should we say RAM) technologies they are different too. You can’t go installing more than one type in your laptop as each has its own exclusive specification, including accompanying memory slots that are generally speaking in-compatible with the other types. Consequently, whatever your laptop (unless it’s older than circa 1997) it will only make use of one of the above. Have a DDR laptop? Install only DDR RAM. Have a DDR2 laptop? Only DDR2 RAM will work and so forth.

SODIMM

Now that you’re up to speed with memory technologies and a few other bits and pieces about laptop RAM then next in line is a SODIMM. Four different laptop memory types but only one SODIMM you ask? In short “yes”. You see, SODIMM stands for Single Outline Dual Inline Memory Module and is a rather elegant albeit technical way of saying the type card on which your memory arrives. Professionally speaking you would say a SODIMM is a type of PCB (Printed Circuit Board) rather than “card” but card is just as fitting.

A SODIMM being a PCB or card (no hurry deciding this for now) will contain SDRAM, DDR, DDR2 or DDR3 memory chips soldered onto it. Does this mean SODIMM’s vary depending on the memory type they feature? Yes, but don’t go rolling your eyes up just yet – it’s not as terrifying as you might think. While there are various differences, all you really should know is the number of pins (see below). The number of pins identifies the type of SODIMM. By knowing the number of pins the type of SODIMM your laptop requires contains, you can double check that you’re ordering the right type. Sometimes you may find some discrepancies in descriptions when buying so it certainly doesn’t hurt to do so.

MicroDIMM

If you’re more of a mobile mogul who often takes your laptop on travel then the chances are you actually own what’s known as a sub-notebook or netbook. Overall, we can classify these as types of small laptops. You’ve probably guessed what we plan to say next but just for consistency, a MicroDIMM is a miniature version of a SODIMM designed for small laptop computers, which just so happen to feature a more compact chassis. Not all sub-notebooks use MicroDIMM’s but don’t let that stop you remembering what they are.

Unless you own a sub-notebook or netbook then it’s suffice to say a MicroDIMM is not likely to be in your agenda. Even if you own a netbook, most aren’t upgradable so much the same applies there too. Perhaps the best advice is to keep in mind what a MicroDIMM is and also recall what we said about SODIMM pins above. The same theory can be applied to MicroDIMM pins – by noting the number of pins you can easily deduct the type of MicroDIMM.

Pins

We’ve spilled the beans about what SODIMM and MicroDIMM pins are above, which is in fact excellent because as a result we can immediately jump into defusing how many pins each of the different types of SODIMM’s and MicroDIMM’s (corresponding to each memory technology) contain.

If you’re ordering a SDRAM SODIMM laptop memory upgrade then you should expect a SODIMM with 144pins.

If however you need a DDR SODIMM laptop memory upgrade then it should contain 200pins.

And so we proceed onto a DDR2 SODIMM laptop memory upgrade. These also contain 200pins just as DDR SODIMM’s but rest assured they are incompatible with each other.

And finally (as of 2010) we have a DDR3 SODIMM laptop memory upgrade. These contain 204pins.

Things are a little dissimilar when it comes to MicroDIMM’s. If it’s a SDRAM MicroDIMM you need then the number of pins equals 144, the same as in a SDRAM SODIMM.

Meanwhile, if it’s a DDR MicroDIMM you need then this is 172pins.

Finally, should a DDR2 MIcroDIMM upgrade be on your agenda, these contain 214pins.

Timings

Each time you see or hear about timings (in the context of RAM) it’s all to do with the delays concerning how efficiently a given SODIMM or MicroDIMM operates. For simplicity’s sake this includes the delays associated with how fast a memory module can be accessed, find the data to be read or locate a free area to where to write some new data, copy data and refresh after performing any such commands.

Since timings influence the performance of a SODIMM or MicroDIMM, you will at times find that some memory manufacturers offer what we might reference as performance parts. These are standard SODIMM or MicroDIMM memory modules except for the trait that they’re certified to run stably at somewhat faster (tighter) memory timings.

Each type of memory technology, SDRAM, DDR, DDR2 and DDR3 operate in their own realm of timings. A SDRAM memory module will likely feature timings of 2-3-3-6, a DDR memory module 3-3-3-8, a DDR2 module 4-4-4-12 and a DDR3 module 7-7-7-20 respectively. Note that there are four numbers in each and that the newer the memory technology, the higher its timings.

While there is a small performance boost (circa 5%) to be gained from installing performance SODIMM’s or MicroDIMM’s you’re not prone to feel the difference even should you desire paying somewhat extra for the privilege. Nevertheless, if you do decide your laptop deserves nothing but the best then always remember to replace all the currently installed memory modules with new performance SODIMM’s or MicroDIMM’s. Failing to do so will cause your memory to run at the timings of the older module(s) thus wiping clean any performance benefit from installing your new RAM.

CAS Latency

The above deposition on timings wouldn’t be quite complete if we didn’t mention a few words on CAS latency, especially if you’ve taken the plunge and decided to purchase performance SODIMM or MicroDIMM’s after all.

When it comes to RAM timings, CAS latency is the one that has the most performance impact. CAS stands for Column Access Strobe and marks the delay that a SODIMM or MicroDIMM module must ensue prior to locating a given area within the memory. The CAS latency is usually marked as for example CAS 3, CL3, CL=3 or is hidden within the timings description as denoted above. For example, if you see a SODIMM or MicroDIMM with its timings written as 4-4-4-12 then the first number from the left (4 in this case) is the CAS latency. Similarly, if you find a DDR2 memory module of the same frequency but with timings of 3-4-4-10 then this means it’s been certified to run at a CL=3 instead of CL=4.

Conclusion

If you can muster the above then dare we say this outright but you’re already likely to know more about laptop RAM than most sales people in large computer chain stores. And they have a job their trying to selling you amongst others memory upgrades? Anyway, the focus is on you and not them, in fact it’s not even on you but instead on what you’ve just learned above.

You may not realise it but you actually deserve a sincere pat on your back. At first all the above acronyms may appear as hogwash but isn’t that just delusional? Take a deep breathe, follow the advice word for word and in spite of everything your fears might be telling you, buying a laptop memory upgrade will be a success!

Spy Earpiece: A Micro Earpiece That Will Help You Through Presentations, Interviews, Speeches + More

This device originally developed for covert operations is now made available for the public to use. Each earpiece kit can provide a way for you to transmit and receive audio information without anybody in the room knowing. Whether you want to receive pre-recorded messages or information from another party to assist you during your presentation / interview or speech, the earpiece can be set up with your phone, audio recorder, radio, or MP3 player to send the message to your earpiece , placed in your ear channel so that it is undetectable .. All kits also include a built in microphone so that you can engage in 2 way conversation should you wish

So how does it work?

The key is the inductive transmitter that will transmit audio from a phone / mp3 player to the earpiece. The transmitter itself is available in many forms. For example the transmitter may be included within a neckloop to be worn around the users neck, this may connect to your phone or mp3 player via its earphone socket. Or you may have a Bluetooth are often included in everyday objectes such as a pair of glasses, a Pen or even a bluetooth watch. The transmitter acts as the aerial for reception and signal transmitter from phone to earpiece. At the same time, output sound picked up by the tiny microphone attached to the neckloop / pen / glasses is sent through your phone just as if the user is talking directly into it.

How to Use The Spy Earpiece?

Depending on what kind of information you wish to receive the earpiece can be set up to suit. For example during a presentation or speech you may wish to pre-record your speech or presentation on an mp3 player, then play it back to yourself during the presentation / speech. Or simply record a simple prompt for each point you would like to make. You could then connect up your mp3 player to an inductive neckloop included in most earpiece kits, and wear a spy earpiece. So long as the battery is inserted into the earpiece you will hear the audio from your mp3 player in the earpiece.

Alternatively you may prefer to have a team prepped in another room to assist you during your speech. This can be achieved by simply starting a mobile phone conversation with your team just before the speech starts. You would then need to either connect an inductive neckloop to the headphone output of your phone, or pair your phone with a bluetooth induction neckloop / pen / glasses. Insert the earpiece into your ear making sure the battery is inserted correctly. Your team should be able to hear your speech in real time over the phone, and can give you tips in your earpiece along the way. The same may apply in an interview situation, you may wish to have a third party issue you advice during your interview.

Each Inductive transmitter whether it be a neckloop or a bluetooth device like a pen, glasses or bluetooth neckloop, will also include a built in microphone so you can also talk back to your colleagues should you wish during your speech / presentation or interview.

Lets not forget the original intention of the Spy Earpiece which is for security and covert surveillance. The Spy Earpiece excels in these situations where the requirement is for a security operative to communicate covertly.

The key to success is in the careful planning and preparation so that everything runs smooth.

The way I see it, when the challenge is great and the results mean everything, why not try the Spy Earpiece and take the risk out of the equation?

Brief History of Chester Cinemas

This is an article on the history of Chester’s cinemas. I myself worked in the Classic Chester in the projection box. Chester’s first full time cinema hall was the upper floor of what had been the Corn Exchange on Eastgate Street. This opened in 1909 and was leased to a Mr and Mrs Will Hunter. For a while it was known as the Corn Exchange cinema before becoming the Picturedrome. It closed in 1924. The Glynn Picture Hall opened in 1911 in Foregate Street. This stayed a silent cinema, not installing sound. This little cinema closed in 1931 and was at that time run by Gaumont British.

The Music Hall in St Werberg and Northgate Street ran films on a full time basis from 1915, opening with The Corsican Brothers. It was known as Music Hall Pictures until 1921; it was then altered and the screen was changed from the St Werberg side to the Northgate. It became the Music Hall, opening in November 1921 with Charles Chaplin in The Kid. It was the home of Chester’s first Talkie, The Singing Fool in 1929. It closed in 1961.

The Pat Collins Cinema De Luxe opened in 1921 on Brook Street, becoming the Majestic in 1926. In 1956 it closed and became the Majestic ballroom. It was eyes down in 1965 when bingo took the place of dancing. Bingo was transferred to the former Gaumont after the auditorium of the Majestic was demolished for road widening.

The Park cinema in Saltney, a suburb of Chester was a one level hall and opened in 1923, closing in 1959 with the Japaneese war film The Camp on Blood Island.

1931 saw the magnificent Gaumont open on Brook Street. This housed a Compton organ and live shows were often staged. It housed a cafe where cinemagoers and non cinemagoers could enjoy a meal and drink. Films ceased in 1961 and it became a Ten Pin Bowling establishment. In 1970 bingo was the name of the game.

The art deco Odeon was opened in October 1936 and in attendance was film star Douglas Fairbanks junior. In 1976 it was converted to three screens and five in 1991. The Odeon closed in June 2007.

The Tatler Foregate Street, later becoming the Classic opened in December 1936. It started as a news and cartoon cinema. In December 1937 it ran its first feature called It Happened One Night, directed by Frank Capra. This was screened five times a day. In December 1970 it closed its doors and was demolished along with several other buildings to make room for a C&A store, which became a Woolworths and is now Primark.

The last super cinema to be built in Chester was the ABC Regal in Foregate Street. It was opened by the Mayor Robert Matthewson in October 1937. Eventually it became just ABC. It was taken over by EMI in 1969 and converted to a twin cinema in 1980. The Cannon group took it over in 1987 and the cinema closed in 1990. Today the building is a Primark store. A new multiplex opened on 18th December 1990 on a shopping complex in the Sealand Road area. In 2013 that was demolished and an Asda store now stands on the site.

Important Facts on the Electrical Wire Log Homes

Electrical wiring for a new log home is always a thing that worries owners. As wood is organic it can easily get burned and so a perfect kind of electrical wiring is needed for a material like wood. The electrician performs his main task once the dry-in phase of construction is complete. The electrician should be contracted and he also should be consulted early in the construction process to approve and supervise wiring in the second floor system, roof system, and in the log wall system. All the wiring practices are to be approved by and supervised by your electrician.

In order to wire the outlet boxes many holes would be needed and so they should be drilled and this is to be done when your log erection crew is installing the logs and not later than that. The construction crew will want to mark the location of the holes when they drill these holes on the sub floor. You need to make sure the drilled holes go all the way through the sub floor. The outlet box holes are to be cut then.

A very good way to notch out an outlet box is something you should know about. That is to mark the outline of the box on the log wall, using the actual box as the pattern. Then you would need to drill a series of 1-inch to 1-1/2-inch holes within the perimeter of that outline using a butterfly bit or hole-saw bit. Cleaning the holes is to be done with a chisel. Then plunge the wiring hole to remove chips and sawdust with a stiff piece of wire. The dry in process is to see the holes being drilled and the outlet boxes being cut.

The wires need to be drilled through the rafter or rather the ridge beam when it comes to light fixtures and these wires should hang directly underneath the rafter. A block of wood is needed for rafters that run at an angle to mount to the bottom of the rafter. Even this block is to be cut at the angle of the roof pitch. This is done in order to create a bottom flat surface that is level with the house floor. At the bottom of the block is where the light should be mounted.

When it comes to the wiring for cable and phone lines as well as burglar alarms and so on you would need to consider the process of the wiring before and throughout the construction process and wiring runs coordinated with your electrician. All this wiring is normally run under the sub floor with legs branching upwards at windows or the doors, stud walls etc.

Wiring to overhead lights under a the roof system can run from under the sub floor, up through exterior door jambs and for that you would need to drill through logs above doorway, or interior stud walls, or over the top of the roof decking to the proper location, then down through drilled holes to the light fixture location.

Top 10 Dive Watches Under 300 Dollars

Do you love dive watches? Many people do, including persons who have never been diving. Why is this? Reasons vary from person to person but some of them are:

Ruggedness. Dive watches tend to have robust construction for everyday use.

Style. Dive watches look “adventurous” and that style is appealing to many

Practicality. Dive watches can be worn all the time, whether working, swimming, showering, sleeping, even in formal settings if a nicer style is chosen.

Image. Similar to the style point above, the Dive watch can make the wearer look cool!

So, what are the top 10 dive watches for under $300.00?

If you ask someone what the top 10 sports cars are, you’re going to get a wide variety of answers but there are a few classics and favorites that can be enjoyed by most everyone who likes dive watches;

1) Invicta Pro Diver: The 8926C Pro diver in stainless steel or two tone looks a lot like the R***x Submariner, one of the kings of dive watches. It’s affordable, often less than $100, and it’s great looking, rugged, and well made. A true classic!

2) Freestyle Hammerhead XL: This large chronograph is very dive oriented stylewise, and very practical and affordable. 200m water resistance makes it dive practical and 50mm size make it commanding on the wrist. The Hammerhead XL is also available in a new Black on black style!

3) Reactor Dive watches: The Reactor brand is fairly large and some of their watches are more than $300 but they still have some very cool models for under 300 dollars including the Meltdown, the Fallout, and the Heavy water models. Reactor prides itself in extremely tough construction and dive worthiness for a reasonable price.

4) Orient Mako and Mako II dive watches: These very popular dive watches also follow the style formula of the R***x Submariner. Orient watches are highly respected because they’re very well made for the price. Mako watches feature automatic movements and can be had for less than $100 oftentimes.

5) The Wenger Aquagraph Deep Diver: Swiss Made quartz watches that are water resistant to 1000 meters! Reasonably priced, solid, and great looking too!

6) Deep Blue Watches: Not all Deep Blue watches are under 300 dollars but two models that are include; All Purpose Diver, a quartz watch with 1000m water resistance for around 150 dollars, and the Seadiver, an automatic watch with 1000m water resistance for around 280 dollars. Either way, they feature rugged looks and construction.

7) Seiko SKX series: The Seiko SKX series feature, among others, the Orange Monster and the Black Monster watches which are legendary for quality, legibility, affordability, and coolness! They feature automatic movements and 200m water resistance in a variety of really cool styles.

8) Luminox Navy Seal Colormark: These watches feature tritium gas tube dial illumination, which means that they glow even without being exposed to light. They never get dark for around 10 years and more, although they do dim with time. The Colormark features a reinforced plastic construction and the requisite 200m water resistance rating along with diver’s bezel. Available in a number of color choices for around $160 – $180

9) Citizen Eco-Drive Professional Diver’s watch: Specifically, the BJ8050-08E is a classic dive watch with a style all its own: Eco Drive means it never needs a battery, and 300m water resistance with a 48mm case make it very practical for diving. Anti reflective crystal and screw down crown, too. Available for around $240

10) Invicta Subaqua Noma series: While some Subaqua Noma watches cost more than 300 dollars, quite a few can be had for 300 or less. Always Swiss Made, They are available as GMT or Quartz chronograph watches for under 300 dollars. Large and in charge, Subaqua Noma watches feature a 50 mm case and are available in a variety of style combinations with stainless steel and rubber straps.

There are many great watches for less than 300 dollars but those are my favorites. Thanks for reading!

Small Table Lamps – Great for Decoration and Lighting Purposes in Small Areas

Small Table lamps are the lamps that are very useful for lighting small area. For example if you have a small table and you need to lighten it then you should go for these lamps. The size of these modernlamps can be made very small. For example the height of lamp may be less that a foot and the size may be extremely thin.

Nowadays there are different sizes, styles and colors available in table lamps. Therefore it is not difficult to find that small lamp which exactly suits and meet your requirement. These contemporary style small lamps are also available with small rounded base which gives small chunky looks. However if you want more light then you should not count small lamps for this purpose as they require an extremely low wattage bulb and thus the shade remain small. If you use high wattage bulb in these table lamps then there may be danger of fire because the shade will be sitting close to the light bulb. However if you want extra light along with these small lamps then you can use a floor lamp or a hanging fixture in the area. In this way you get additional glow of light.

These small and portable table lamps can be used for lighting the area beside your bed for reading because it provide you as much light as you require and will not disturb the eyes of another person. There may be small corner in your room that is less lit than the rest of the room and if you just need a little bit of extra light then in this case small table lamp is the best option for you. Generally these modern and contemporary style lamps are used for decoration purposes. These table lamps are very attractive and provide cute appeal to the décor of your room. They act as a stylish and sophisticated accessory to a room.

There are different colors available in these lamps and you can purchase any of them depending upon the requirement and décor of your room. You can buy these small lamps from any lamp store or any store that sell decorative things for a home. You may also find small lamps with decorative shades and designs. Different materials are used to make lamps of this style. Usually ceramic is used but wood, plastic or porcelain is also used to make these lamps. The variety in small lamps is endless and you will not get any problem in finding exactly what you’re looking for once you start shopping.

If you want lamps that are cheap in prices then you can find them in a department store or the Internet. For getting wider selection in the style of table lamps you should go to the furniture stores because they usually sell contemporary style lamps. How ever if you are looking for really high-end small table lamps then you should go to the designer furniture stores or shop online. Here you can get some really unique lamps once you start looking around.

How to Draw: 6 Tips on Framing Pencil Drawings

It’s how your finished artwork is presented that makes all the difference. Although it’s tempting to simply place your drawing in a ready-made frame, there are several things that you should take in consideration before framing your artwork to insure it is adequately protected over the years.

Use acid-free materials
Any matting, tape or adhesive, barriers, or backing that you use in the framing of your art or drawing should be completely acid free. Acidic materials, after long periods of time can actually damage the artwork in the frame by distorting the actual paper or by turning the paper a yellowish color.

Use matting
I prefer using mats with the framing of my drawings.

If an acidic matting is use, it should be backed by an acid-free material that will act as a protective barrier between the matting and the drawing. There is a standard thickness that is necessary and preferred in the industry for this buffer or barrier. The same consideration should be given to the backing of your drawing. If your drawing or art is backed or mounted on an acid-free material, the barrier is unnecessary. Some framers use a foam-core board for backing.

Stay away from black
As a general rule, I always stay away from black, especially solid black-although, it can work if is part of a color scheme with a particular molding and if it is not overpowering the drawing. It’s good to have something that has a range of values-including molding and mats, working as a set. Even with the values and gradations created within the graphite media, the mat or mats and the frame can all be chosen to either compliment, subdue, or emphasize any particular value or aspect of your drawing.

Always frame with glass
I would always frame with glass, but I would also spend the extra money for the UV protection glass. However, I would never use non-glare glass or plexiglas.

The drawing should be cleaned well, removing smudges, dust, or eraser fragments. To see if there are any tiny fragments on your paper or drawing, you should look at the surface closely from a severe angle, so that you can see them contrasting from the paper’s surface as they rise up. You can use a brush or compressed air to remove the fragments from the framing material.

The glass should be exceptionally clean and should be tested for finger prints, dust, hair, or other foreign material, before securing it permanently in the frame. You may have to do this more than once.

Let your artwork breathe
In attaching the drawing to the backing or whatever secures its position within the mats or frame, it should only be secured at the top and allowed to hang if an adhesive or tape is used. It should not be secured firmly at all four corners or around its perimeter, because the humidity changes continually and the paper has to have freedom to flex, expand, and contract. Otherwise, the paper will ripple or develop waves if it is restricted in any way. These waves in the paper become very apparent when the lighting is directional or at an angle to the framed piece of art. The light causes highlight and shadow because of the contours in the paper. Some framers are using a large plastic photo type corner that allows the paper to slide in and be secure at all four corners and still allow for the flexing of the paper. It seems to be working quite well, as several of my drawings and illustrations using other media on paper, have been framed this way for a number of years.

Add a protective dust cover
After attaching the art and framing materials to the actual frame, a dust cover should be used on the back to keep additional dust, spiders, or bugs from entering the framed picture compartment. This is usually done by using a two-sided tape on the back surface of the molding all the way around the perimeter. Then a piece of brown paper is laid down on the adhesive surface as it is stretched flat as you press it onto the adhesive surface. You then trim the outer edges of the brown paper to fit and then you are ready to attach your hanging wire, before placing your artwork on display!

Have fun drawing!

Get To Know All The Advantages And Disadvantages Of Rammed Earth Homes

Rammed Earth Home is one of the most economical, comfortable, durable and elegant looking building structures. It was an ancient method of building construction which is still very popular up in order to these days. Why? Simply because of the many top qualities it possesses that benefits both the homeowners and the rammed earth builders. These advantages include the following:

Long Lasting Strength and Durability

The thousands of years of remaining standing from archaic times to the present day plus several scientific testing conducted are evidence enough so as to prove the durability and long lasting qualities. They have been recognized by the engineers as having load bearing characteristic, so no need to spend for additional framing to protect the structure. Not just that, rammed earth construction has exceeded the minimum requirements achieved by most timer frame construction because of the substantial bracing and stability it provides against natural calamities.

Thermal Mass

The thick material density is one among the reasons why these homes remain standing for thousands of years in spite of extreme calamities. There’s just a slight penetration because of this quality that takes place during hot or cold climate. Therefore, it gives off natural warmth during winter and chill feeling during summer when inside the house. This also makes it an ideal choice in areas like Australia, where temperature fluctuations need to be kept to a minimum.

Versatile

Because of the natural color and texture variations of rammed earth constructions, many architects find it very easy to style rammed earth homes many styles with a great deal more elements. A stunning beauty is given to the structure by combining the foreign materials with the natural properties of rammed earth materials.

Termite/Sound/Fire Proof

Termites and pests have no place in order to stay due to the durable quality of the materials used. There are no cavities in walls for pests to reside or use as a route in order to the roof or other timbers. Plastering, wallpapering, or repainting is not required so as to reinforce a rammed earth home. Apart from all these, you can even ensure that no unwanted sounds like traffic noise could go through the walls due to its sound insulation property.

Nature Friendly

Unlike other building structure materials such as bricks and cement, it doesn’t produce toxic, is non-polluting and especially, it breathes. Utilizing all these qualities, rammed earth homes are ensured safer, more comfortable home building in order to live in that stays longer throughout the years.

They are a team of companies specializing in stabilized construction. The group comprises local and international teams who work together to deliver the best outcomes for clients wanting to use this beautiful, natural and durable walling for their houses or commercial projects.

How to Prepare to Train Others

I went to a public seminar a few years ago, arriving 15 minutes or so before it was scheduled to begin. The trainer was flying around the front of a room like bat. Out of his briefcase came his leader’s guide, followed in quick succession by overheads, flipchart markers, a host of samples he would later distribute to the participants, and, believe it or not, a banana. For the next few minutes he was a blur as he tried to organize his materials and the equipment he would use. He may have had a really good reason for being late. Hey, this was in Minnesota. For all I know he may have been stuck behind a snowplow for his entire commute. But whether the delay was legitimate or the result of poor planning, the outcome was the same: not being ready for his session drained his credibility. If he’d gotten there in time and had everything ready to go, his group would have been able to focus on the content, not the frazzled presenter.

Doing the groundwork before your session sets the stage for more engaged, less distracted participants and a more effective, less stressed presenter. It ensures that you as well as all your equipment and materials are ready to go. Your goal is to start off appearing in control, relaxed, focused on your attendees.

Here are a few tips to help you get ready for your presentations.

Get a head start

Can you spot which of these examples is fiction? The presenter arrives at the session site and:

  • Finds all the windows have been painted shut. It’s 85 degrees outside. It’s hotter inside.
  • Discovers it’s being redecorated…that day. A workman is busy removing the wallpaper. She Is told the room she booked for her group isn’t available, but accommodations have been made in the grand ballroom. It’s as big as a tennis court and has 35 foot ceilings.
  • Finds out this is where the company stores extra chairs. There are chairs everywhere, at least 200 of them, which works out to about10 chairs per person scheduled to come. There are, however, no tables.
  • Sees none of the equipment he ordered in the room.

Now for the shocker: all of these are true. And these aren’t even the really scary things my colleagues and I have talked about over the years. The only thing worse than getting to your presentation site and finding something horridly wrong is getting there too late to do anything about it. So how can you avoid this?

  • Arrive about 45 minutes to an hour early. In the best of situations, you have plenty of time to get your equipment and materials set up and still have a minute to collect your thoughts. When the worst happens, you have time to correct problems or make other arrangements.
  • Set the room up the night before, if possible. If you’re working at an off-site location that doesn’t have the room you’ll use booked the night before, the management might allow you set up then. The next morning, you can arrive a little later (say 30 minutes early) to finish getting ready.
  • Lay at each participant’s place any resources he/she will use at the beginning of your session. This avoids spending the first few minutes of your time dealing out materials. Hang on to anything you’ll use later in your presentation so attendees aren’t distracted by it.

Check Your Equipment

When you order that overhead projector, PPT PROJECTOR THING, flipchart, microphone, video/dvd player, and monitor, you’re assumption is that these tools will make your presentation easier and more effective. Theoretically, this is true. Reality, however, can be an entirely different story. Projector bulbs blow out. Flipcharts have limited amounts of paper. Microphones can be dead, video/dvd players can be short the cable need to connect to the monitor, and the PPT PROJECTOR THING not compatible with your computer. We won’t even get into white boards covered with non-erasable ink. Here are some equipment checks to make before your session begins:

Overhead projector:

  • Make sure you have spare bulb (better yet, two) and that you know how to install it.
  • Turn the projector on and check that the glass clean, not covered with the last user’s stray ink marks or fingerprints.
  • Tape the cord down so no one trips over it.
  • Screen:
  • Position it so everyone in the room can see it. Turn the projector on and tour the room, checking visibility from every angle.
  • Dim the lights around the screen so participants can see better, if possible. If not, consider where else you could move it that would be a bit darker.

Do they have something to write on?

PPT THING:

  • Save your file(s) on three different disks if you’re using someone else’s computer to show your PowerPoint presentation. For reasons known only to the MIS world, a disk that works like a charm in your computer will be a dud on another system. Hedge your bets. Bring multiple copies.
  • Save your file(s) in different ways. Consider saving as a regular PowerPoint file in the current version, as a “presentation” (which is read only) and in older PPT versions (PowerPoint 95 or PowerPoint 97-2000). Again, if you’re using someone else’s system, you can’t guarantee they have the same software version you have.
  • Email your file(s) you files if you’re working off site or for a client company and ask the recipient to open it so you know you have a working copy. In some cases, you can send it directly to the MIS person in charge of the equipment. Ask them to put it on their network/hardrive, so when you get there, you can access it. This is good when you have multiple presentations to give. It’s always ready to go.
  • Bring your own cables if you’re running the presentation on your computer and someone else’s PPT THING NAME so you know you have cabling that a) is present and b) works with your PC.
  • Charge your notebook’s battery (if that’s what you’ll be using to show your PowerPoint slides) or bring power cable and extension cord to ensure uninterrupted power.

Microphone:

A headset or lavaliere microphone can be a huge asset if you’re presenting to a large group, the room you’re working in is big, or you’re doing a multiple-day presentation. I once did a five-day, 8 hours a day training course. By the end of day three, my throat felt like I had a tiger in it trying to claw its way out. Oh, what a blessing a microphone would have been! Since projecting your voice for hours at a time is exhausting and can leave you too hoarse to continue, consider using a microphone. Check your microphone for:

  • How it fastens to your clothing You don’t want it flinging around your neck like a noose, so spend a minute figuring out how to attach it properly. If you’re using a headset, adjust it to fit securely so it doesn’t slip around as you move.
  • If it has enough cable to allow you to move around the room comfortably. If it’s a cordless model, make sure you have a spare battery or two.
  • The sound quality. Resolve any issues with crackling, dropping out, or dead spots in the room before your group arrives.

Flipchart

Ah, the flipchart! The lowest tech piece of equipment you have, yet it gets a workout every presentation you give. Yet, believe it or not, it can throw you a curveball or two if you don’t give it a thorough once over. Check things like:

  • If the stand sturdy or if it’s going to collapse if you exhale on it. Older stands tend to buckle at WHAT’S THAT THING CALLED THAT ALLOWS IT TO COLLAPSE FOR STORAGE/. If necessary, tape the THINGS open.
  • If it’s level. If it tips every time you touch it with a marker wad up some packing tape and stick it to the bottom of the short leg(s).
  • How much paper the pad has and if the remaining paper is clean. (Someone else may have used sheets in the back of the pad, leaving you less paper than you thought you had.) If it has less than ten sheets on it, replace it. Use the remaining sheets on the original pad to hand out for group work.
  • If you have an adequate number of markers on hand. Never, ever trust that a) markers come with it when you order it; b) any markers that do come with it aren’t dried up, worn out, or those awful scented ones that give you a headache. Bring your own. Stick to colors that are visible throughout the room, which pretty much lets out anything pastel, yellow, or orange.

Video/DVD player

Make sure:

  • You know where the play, stop, and pause buttons are on the video/dvd player and the volume control is on the monitor.
  • The cables are in place between the monitor and the video/dvd player.
  • The volume is correctly adjusted for the room size.
  • It’s positioned so people can easily see it from anywhere in the room.
  • No lights, including sunlight, are causing glare on the monitor.

Check your materials

The last things to check over before your presentation are the materials you’ll use. Check your:

  • Overhead transparencies. Are they in order? Are they all there?
  • Video tape. Is it cued up to the spot you want to start it?
  • Leader’s/Presenter’s Guide. Are your pages in the right order? Are the notes you use handy?
  • Job aids, demonstration materials, brochures, samples. Are they present and accounted for? Are they ready to use?

Preparation is the most important stage of any training presentation. When you take time to really consider the participants’ needs, they will notice and be able to focus on the teaching points, exercises, and how to apply what you’ve shared to their lives.

How to Seal Reclaimed Terracotta Tiles

Reclaimed terracotta tiles are a virtually perfect flooring product. Exhibiting unbelievably warm earthy colors, they provide authentic old European and Mediterranean charm to any home. When properly and well sealed, they’ll last a lifetime and easily stand up to heavy foot traffic, as well as the daily exposure to food and liquid spills. Although antique floors made from reclaimed terracotta tiles age gracefully and increase their beauty and character over time, if they are incorrectly or poorly sealed, critical problems can occur and persist through the lifetime of the floor. It is important to protect your investment from problems that can spoil the experience of an antique floor.

Homeowners often wish to improve, enhance and preserve the beauty of their antique flooring. Improperly cared for terracotta floors can become dull or take on a hazy appearance. In extreme cases, some unprotected floors will begin to deteriorate. Proper installation and sealing of the floor with appropriate products will prevent these problems.

Antique terracotta tiles were generally, originally manufactured in past centuries, using simple processes and materials- using clay and volatile components. Modern sealants are often inadequate for these antique tiles and fail to protect them adequately. While modern tiles tend to be more ceramic, reclaimed terracotta tiles have been fired only once in simple kilns-they are very porous and some modern sealants, due to their low viscosity, will actually seep through the tiles and seal off the thin set mortar, causing it to retain moisture. Initially, the tiles look great, with rich warm colors but as the sealer seeps into the tile, the dull, hazy appearance will return. In the worst-case scenarios, some water-based sealants will interact with the volatile materials in the antique terracotta tiles, releasing salts from the clay that will travel to the surface and blossom out in a process called efflorescence. The aftermath of this process leaves a white chalk-like layer that covers the floor. Efflorescence loosens the physical bond of the clay, damaging the tiles. Damaged tiles or complete floor areas have to be replaced.

To seal and finish a reclaimed terracotta floor properly, install the reclaimed terracotta tiles like any regular tile. Be sure that the thin set mortar has minimal moisture content. Reclaimed terracotta tile tends to absorb moisture from the adhesive, preventing it from forming a strong bond. Sanded grout is preferred for reclaimed tiles. A colored sanded grout that blends with the tile makes grouting easier. Avoid the use of grout products with pre-sealer. Trapped moisture from these products can create unforeseen reactions that harm your floor. Grout small sections at a time to allow moisture to escape. Upon completion of grouting, clean the floor with water or a mild acid solution and let the floor dry completely over a period of two weeks allowing all moisture to evaporate. If the floor is installed over radiant heat, first wait 48 hours; then turn on the heat to speed up drying. This scenario allows your drying time to be reduced to one week. Remember that terracotta tiles are extremely porous and small air pockets in the clay media can interfere with the transportation of moisture to the surface. Terracotta tiles can look dry on the surface in a short period of time, but will still be saturated with water inside. Always allow ample, properly prescribed time for drying.

When you are certain the reclaimed terracotta floor is thoroughly dry, use a high viscosity, naturally hardening sealing and priming oil. When applied, the sealing and priming oil will penetrate both the tile and the grout. It will fill any air pockets and form a sealed layer in the upper part of the terracotta tile. In 24 hours time, the sealing and priming oil will harden into a waterproof layer, forming an amber like material. This will lock in salts and minerals. Apply the oil liberally so that the terracotta tile soaks up as much oil as possible. After half an hour, check the floor surface and remove excess oil with the cloth. You may repeat this process if you feel it’s necessary but most floors only need a single application. The application of sealing and priming oil may initially exaggerate the color of the title but after a few days of drying, the resulting appearance will be that of the original tile installation with a slightly richer hue. After the one or two days of drying time, apply a surface finish. One good choice is Carnauba wax emulsion. It adheres to the sealed terracotta tiles and dries to a beautiful, hard matte finish. Your terracotta flooring will have a rich leathery luster without an overtly glossy appearance. For reclaimed terracotta tiles in bathrooms or other areas with lots of moisture exposure, use a durable semi-gloss acrylic finish. Where antique, reclaimed terracotta tile is installed in a shower, an even more durable epoxy sealer is the right choice.

Importance of Cleaning a Septic Truck Tank!

Septic vacuum trucks used to suction out septic tanks are highly specialized industrial vehicles, designed to withstand the rigors of this unsavory job. Daily maintenance and inspections are a priority to ensure things are running correctly; being carefully cleaned after emptying is part of that maintenance. Constantly in contact with infectious and corrosive waste material, these industrial units need adequate protection from harmful elements as do their operators.

A septic pumping job is far from over when the vacuum truck leaves an area after having emptied the septic reservoir. Obviously, the unit’s tank needs to be emptied at a designated dumping facility. Once that has been completed, it is important to clean the vehicle, inside and out, and prepare it for the next day’s use.

Important Handling Steps

Following is a chronological listing of the steps that occur after suctioning raw sewage into a septic truck.

  • Treatment Plants – Sewage is usually taken directly to waste treatment plants where it is offloaded under pressure from the vehicle into a larger sewage holding tank. At this point, the contents are processed through treatment although there is still work to be done before the vehicle can be parked for the day.
  • Sludge Removal – It is critical that the inside of septic trucks are cleaned after off-loading. Solid material left in the bottom will not only become harder to remove, it will begin to take tank space which could affect the ability to completely pump out a septic system. If it is noticed that a truck tank has been filling to capacity and holding less pumped material, it is a good indicator that there is a layer of sludge in the bottom that must be properly removed.
  • Sewage Plant Protection – Cleaning not only protects the machinery but the sewage tanks and equipment at waste treatment plants as well. Receiving mixed or unknown waste material and dumping it into sewage tanks can spell disaster; chemical reactions can take place as well as fires and explosions. Therefore, in order to contribute to protecting what they deal with, treatment plants provide truck wash stations for use before vehicles leave a facility.

Cleaning Procedures

Cleaning the inside of a septic truck varies depending on the type of tank, although most generally have two manhole openings for interior access for this very purpose.

  • Water or Vibration Removal – The interior is sprayed with water and disinfectants where applicable, removing any sludge on the bottom. If there is sludge that is difficult to take out, a device called a vibrator can be attached to vibrate the tank, loosening the inside layers of solid material.
  • Manual Removal – If the above method does not work or if sludge that has been inside the tank for a while, the only way to eliminate it is manually. Operators have to either enter the tank or work from the manholes, digging out any residual material. Once the interior of the vacuum tank and hoses have been properly cleaned of all liquid and stuck-on solid materials, the exterior of the truck can be cleaned to remove any residual waste.
  • Wash Stations – For safety reasons, wash stations are provided with wash water bins. Throughout the entire cleaning process, wash water runoff is collected in large bins since this, too, is now considered to be contaminated. The water in these bins will then be added to the sewage reservoirs.

Only after a thorough cleansing is the vacuum truck considered to be ready for use. There should be little or no trace of any material remaining that was in the truck when the job was completed, making it safe for any subsequent jobs.

Keeping the interior of a septic truck’s tank clean is not easy; however, for the safety provided it is well worth the extra effort. It will also reduce the risks involved when someone has to climb in and dig out the sludge – something that every operator should appreciate. Hopefully this article has provided some valuable insight into the importance of clean a septic truck tank when the job is done!

Understanding HP Leanft

What is HP LeanFT?

Businesses in today’s world need to act with speed and agility to deliver not only efficient, but also innovative applications and software models. This requires them to continuously implement variations into their existing or upcoming product(s). This has led to the evolution of the Agile Model. Agility is one of the main factors that has led to the businesses shift left and introduce tests processes early into the software development life cycle. LeanFT or Lean Functional Testing is an automated functional testing solution for enabling better collaboration in Agile and DevOps testing teams. It was announced by HP on June 2, 2015. It is developer-oriented and provides a robust solution to continuous testing and integration processes to develop, test and deliver high quality and secured applications.

Technical Features of HP Lean FT

• It can be fully integrated with standard IDEs like, Visual Studio, Eclipse, etc.

• It comes as an extended plug-in for standard unit test frameworks like, Nunit, Junit, Cucumber and MS Test. It can also be used in other testing frameworks or in a custom framework.

• Modern languages like C# or Java are used for test coding.

• It supports standard AUT (Application Under Test) platforms like, Windows Standard, Web,.NET Windows Forms, WPF, Mobile, Insight. It also enables modification of AUT and its objects.

• It is compatible with UFT object identification engine. Thus, it adopts and enhances the test models of Unified Functional Testing (UFT) which is more inclined towards Business Analysts and QA Analysts.

• It provides the detailed flow of test execution and shows exact reasons for the failure of the test.

Working of LeanFT

• In the IDE, a project for testing is created using LeanFT with the framework libraries already referenced.

• The test is implemented using LeanFT library.

• Additional tests and classes are added.

• Project is then built and the tests are then executed using the framework runner and it is ensured that they are running as expected.

• The source is then checked into Software Configuration Management.

• The tests are executed from the Continuous Integration system to the Application Life Cycle Management

System Requirements as defined

• Processor 1.6 GHz or faster x86-bit or x64-bit processor

• Hard disk 600 MB available disk space

• Memory 2 GB

• OS Windows® 7

• .Net framework 4.5

• LeanFT plug-in OS Windows 7, Windows 8, Windows Server™ 2008 R2, or Windows Server 2012

• Visual Studio supported versions Visual Studio 2012 (all editions but express; recommended is ultimate edition) Visual Studio 2013 (all editions but express; recommended is ultimate edition)

• Eclipse supported versions Eclipse Kepler 4.3; IDE for Java developers edition Eclipse Luna 4.4; IDE for Java developers edition

Advantages

• Its comprehensible set of tools accelerates test design and maintenance. Object Identification Center is used for generating code and models are used for abstracting applications under test.

• It provides templates for standard unit testing frameworks and enhances the communication between developers and test engineers which in turn allows for early detection of bugs in the SDLC.

• As it fully integrates with and extends the popular IDEs and enables the coding in familiar scripting languages, the requirement for a new system does not exist and the same tools can be utilized.

• It combines the best of vendor based and open-source concepts by wrapping up Selenium with the key functionality of UFT.

Respond Elegantly Whenever Someone Gives You a Compliment

THE “ELEGANT COMPLIMENT REPLY”

For many years I have worked as a professional tour director leading groups of seniors on first-class sightseeing trips throughout the United States and Canada. In the role of a tour director, I’ve been in the unique position of receiving numerous compliments and complaints from the passengers on my trips. As a result, I have a lot of practice handling both situations in a professional manner.

Complaints are actually the flip-side of compliments and both are forms of feedback on how well a person does their job. For complaints, I immediate that full responsibility by apologizing for any mistakes, promising never to do any such things again, and thanking the person for their valuable feedback. I do so in the most professional manner possible.

As far as compliments go, I also treat them with similar care. What I do is say “Thank you” and then add, “You’re so kind,” “That’s a nice thing for you to say,” or more informally “It’s really cool of you to say that.” If I am truly touched by the emotion of their compliment, I will tilt my head a bit, smile, and nod as well.

I fully realize that a compliment is a gift of emotion from the other person. And just like any kind of physical gift, it is my job to accept it graciously rather than throw it back in their face with denial. I will even accept the compliment if I don’t feel like it is completely warranted. That’s because I want the sender to feel validated and acknowledge the kindness they showed me in their act of giving.

The Bottom Line

Look at compliments as an unexpected opportunity to give back to the sender and demonstrate a level of class on your part as well. This is a lot better than being unprepared for compliments and having the sender wish that they never offered it to you in the first place. This simple and powerful idea will serve you well in dating, love relationships, and everyday conversations with friends and colleagues.

What’s the Difference Between Patio Room and Sunroom?

The sun is shining and it’s pretty great weather out there. Well, when it wants to behave. The Pittsburgh area summer temperatures average between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, give or take a few degrees. But, we also know what happens when the summer weather kicks into action– the mosquitoes are on the attack.

It’s no mystery why most humans, animals, or anything living has a fairly high disliking for the little buggers. They love to bite and buzz, and they leave us with an irritating itch! Not the best household guests, are they?

But, we also know that they come out in fleets right in unison with our work schedules. They come out early in the morning as you’re grabbing the paper, and they swarm at night when you want to relax outside after a hard day’s work.

So, how can you enjoy your patio when there are mosquitoes everywhere? You live in the marshy side of town, which only makes things worse. The wildlife is beautiful, but the mosquitoes; yikes!

Well, there are plenty of options. If you are looking for ways to improve your home’s livability and curb appeal, then choosing between a patio room and a sunroom may be your best bet. But, what is the difference, anyway? Keep reading!

The Patio Room

A patio room is a great idea for any homeowner looking for an escape from the pesky critters and mosquitoes that ruin the outdoor experience. You may be hardly using the patio as is. Now is your chance to really make the most of your home and its assets. If you think you will ever sell, make the upgrade now and reap the benefits when your house gets sold.

By locating your local contractor who specializes in patio room installation, the job will get done in no time. With some insulation, flooring, beautiful windows, doors, and screens; your patio screen room will be good to go!

Are you finding it difficult to understand the rational behind screening in your patio? Well, nowadays homebuyers are looking for all the possible ways to improve their home’s beauty. When the time comes to sell, you are going to want to make home improvements by the bundle. If your home could use the extra space and the added curb appeal, then there’s no reason you shouldn’t enclose your patio.

So, what if you make the installation and then the house gets sold. But the new homeowner wants to have a room that can be used all year round? Do they have to tear down your patio room?

No!

Enter the Sunroom

A patio enclosure is a great use of space and your money. By updating your patio into a patio room, you are actually taking the first step that could lead to becoming a room with a year-round purpose!

By just asking your contractor to make some changes you can have your very own year-round sunroom.

Your sunroom will provide you with all the natural light you could ever want, and you can even get glass that is insulated!

What’s Your Choice?

So, do you want to just escape the bugs and don’t really need to use the room all that much in the winter? Are you just interested in taking the first step and see how things go?

No problem. You can always upgrade your patio room into a sunroom. That’s the major difference between the two rooms. A patio room is not as advanced, or an as comfortable year-round space.