Solar Panel Home Kits

If you are keen to install solar energy at your home, you must have seen the numerous websites promoting Solar Panel Home Kits. But before you spend your hard earned cash on one of these kits, find out if these kits are just another Internet scam or are they worth buying.

In general there are two types of Solar Panel Home kits.

1. The first type is simply a “how to” guide. They provide the manuals and videos that show you how to make your own solar panels.

2. The second type provides a manual and also includes some of the key materials required, e.g. some solar cells, a few feet of tabbing wire & bus wire and possibly a flux pen and junction box.

I want to look at the Solar Panel Home kits that claim to show you how to make a solar panel but do not include any materials. These “how to” guides / kits are heavily promoted on the Internet and typically cost $40 to $50 for the complete package of eBooks and videos.

Making Your Own Solar Panel Will NOT Save You Money

Despite all the wonderful claims made by the websites promoting these kits, you will not save money by making your own solar panel or photovoltaic panel (PV panel). Yes, you can make a 60watt PV panel for around $180, but you can buy the equivalent, retail, for the same price. And a retail panel is guaranteed to perform for 25 years. A home made solar panel has no guarantees and will last only a few years, at best.

So, only consider making a PV panel as part of a DIY or science project. The project will not save you money but it will keep you busy over the weekends and making a PV panel can be an enjoyable, rewarding and satisfying experience. The end result will be a functional solar panel that you can show off to your friends and neighbours and use to provide light and some power for a shed or outbuilding.

Do these “How To” Kits Really Show You How to Make a Solar Panel?

YES. Having bought and reviewed most of the leading kits on how to make your own photovoltaic panels I can assure you that some of these kits are very good. Not only do they contain manuals on the build process, the best kits include very good videos that show you step by step what to do and how to do it.

“Do I need to be a DIY Genius?”

No. Even a novice DIY person can do this. One of the good things about making your own solar panel is that it requires only a few skills and no special equipment. Although the process to manufacture the actual solar cells is very high tech, when it comes to making your own PV panels there is no high tech stuff to worry about, in fact the work is rather low tech. You need to acquire skills in the following areas:

  Soldering .

If you have not held a  soldering   iron  in you life, don’t despair. Give yourself a few hours to watch how it is done, (the best solar panel home kits have videos that show you exactly what to do). Practice for a few hours until you get the hang of it. Give yourself time to learn the skill AND save yourself some tears and dollars and don’t practice on your solar cells!

Measuring and marking out.

I know this sounds so simple and it is, but how many times have measured or marked something out and made mistakes. Follow the instructions and watch the videos carefully. This is simple stuff and just requires that you take your time, concentrate and watch what you are doing. Always double and triple check.

Using the silicone sealant/caulking.

The clear silicone is used for making the panel watertight. This is easy; just don’t try anything fancy like the professionals. Squeeze out enough silicon sealant in the approximate places and then use your wet finger or wet latex gloved finger to move the silicon into place and make it neat and smooth. The important thing is to make sure you seal all the gaps and holes and try not to get it where you don’t want it. But hey, it dries clear so no one is going to notice if you have used a tad too much.

That covers the main skills and techniques that you have to learn for your solar panel science or DIY project. The key thing is to take your time, don’t rush, enjoy doing it and the skills will come.

How To Start A Campfire Without Matches Or A Lighter

Traditionally, campers and hikers have relied on matches or lighters to get a good blaze going. The downside of using matches and lighters is that they tend to get wet, break or just plain not work. Being able to light a fire without matches or a lighter is an essential survival skill. You never know when you’ll find yourself in a situation where you’ll need a fire. Whether or not you ever need to call upon these skills, it’s just damn cool to know you can start a fire, whenever and wherever you are.

This article will cover a few of the more common methods like the Hand Drill, Fire Plough, Bow Drill, Flint and Steel. When building a fire you must remember that fire must have three elements to work and they are Fuel, Air and Spark. It is always a good idea to carry some fire starting materials along on you camping trip. Sometimes it is difficult to easily locate tinder. Bring your own and save yourself some hassle. Here are a few examples of easily obtained fire starting materials; Dryer Lint, Cotton Balls coated with petroleum jelly, and Wood Shavings soaked in Kerosene. You should store the tender in a clear zipper bag to keep it dry.

The first item you will need is your tender. Tender is the very small and dry item that will catch fire easily. You can use dry grasses, wood shavings, bark, cotton balls or even dryer lint. Pile your tender together about 2 inches high forming a bird’s nest to catch your spark. On top of the tender you will place your kindling. Kindling is about the thickness of your thumb and will burn longer than you’re tender and needs to be a little stronger and thicker. Place the kindling in a teepee formation about 3-6 inches above the tender. The tender will light first by dropping or throwing a spark into the tender nest. Since the fire needs air you should face with the wind to your back. You will need to blow the tender gently encouraging the fire along. After the tender lights the fire it will then will move to the kindling which will give you a longer and stronger burning flame. Sometimes you might need to blow into the kindling to help strengthen the fire. Next you will need to add the fuel. Fuel is your main burning source for your fire. You should use thicker limbs and branches. Place them over the kindling the same way you placed the kindling over the tender in a teepee formation.

The Friction Method

The wood must be bone dry in order to work properly. If you create enough friction between the drill and the fireboard, you can create an ember that can be used to catch your Tender. Cottonwood, Juniper, Aspen, Willow, Cedar, Cypress, and Walnut make the best fire board and spindle sets.

The Hand Drill

The hand drill method is the most primitive, and the most difficult to do. It is not for the faint of heart. Spindle rotation and downward pressure are two of the most important requirements for starting a hand drill fire. All you need is wood, tireless hands, and some gritty determination.

Build a tinder nest. Your tinder nest will be used to create the flame you get from the spark you’re about to create. Make a tinder nest out of anything that catches fire easily, like dry grass, leaves, and bark.

Make your notch. Cut a v-shaped notch into your fire board and make a small depression adjacent to it.

Place bark underneath the notch. The bark will be used to catch an ember from the friction between the spindle and fireboard.

Start spinning. Place the spindle into the depression on your fire board. Your spindle should be about 2 feet long for this to work properly. Maintain pressure on the board and start rolling the spindle between your hands, running them quickly down the spindle. Keep doing this until an ember is formed on the fireboard.

Start a fire! Once you see a glowing ember, tap the fire board to drop you ember onto the piece of bark. Transfer the bark to your nest of tinder. Gently blow on it to start your flame.

Fire Plough

Prepare your fireboard. Cut a groove in the fireboard. This will be your track for the spindle.

Rub! Take the tip of your spindle and place it in the groove of your fireboard. Start rubbing the tip of the spindle up and down the groove.

Start a fire. Have your tinder nest at the end of the fireboard, so that you’ll plow embers into as you’re rubbing. Once you catch one, blow the nest gently and get that fire going.

Bow Drill

The bow drill is probably the most effective friction based method to use because it’s easier to maintain the speed and pressure you need to create enough friction to start a fire. In addition to the spindle and fireboard, you’ll also need a socket and a bow.

Get a socket: The socket is used to put pressure on the other end of the spindle as you’re rotating it with the bow. The socket can be a stone or another piece of wood. If you use another piece of wood, try to find a harder piece than what you’re using for the spindle. Wood with sap and oil are good as it creates a lubricant between the spindle and the socket.

Make your bow: The bow should be about as long as your arm. Use a flexible piece of wood that has a slight curve. The string of the bow can be anything. A shoelace, rope, or strip of rawhide works great. Just find something that won’t break. String up your bow and you’re ready to go.

Prepare the fireboard. Cut a v-shaped notch and create a depression adjacent to it in the fireboard. Underneath the notch, place your tinder.

String up the spindle. Catch the spindle in a loop of the bow string. Place one end of the spindle in the fireboard and apply pressure on the other end with your socket.

Start sawing. Using your bow, start sawing back and forth. You’ve basically created a rudimentary mechanical drill. The spindle should be rotating quickly. Keep sawing until you create an ember.

Start a fire! Drop the ember into the tinder nest and blow on it gently. You got yourself a fire.

Flint and Steel

This is an old standby and is probably one of the most reliable and easy ways to start a camp fire. It’s always a good idea to carry around a good flint and steel set with you on a camping trip. Modern Flint and Steel fire starters can be seen on the popular survival TV show’s like Man vs. Wild and Survivorman. A company from Sweden called Light My Fire Originally developed for the Swedish Department of Defense the Swedish Fire Steel. Its 3,000°C spark makes fire building easy in any weather, at any altitude. Used by a number of armies around the world, Swedish Fire Steel dependability has already made it a favorite of survival experts, hunters, fishermen and campers.

Build a tinder nest. Your tinder nest will be used to create the flame you get from the spark you’re about to create. Make a tinder nest out of anything that catches fire easily, like dry grass, leaves, and bark.

Step 1: Grip Fire Steel in one hand while taking the Striker in the other hand.

Step 2: Position the Fire Steel against your base to keep it from moving. Then push the Striker down the length of the Fire Steel in one fluid motion.

Step 3: Start a fire! Drop the ember into the tinder nest and blow on it gently. You got yourself a fire.

Learning to light a campfire while camping without a lighter or matches takes a lot of practice. You should never wait till you are in an emergency life or death situation to give them a try. We suggest you practice and practice often. We only scratched the surface in this article. In the next article we will discuss other methods like Balloons and Condoms, Fire from Ice, Coke Can and Sand, and Batteries and Steel Wool.

Speaking Tips – Ace Your Opening

Imagine yourself standing in front of a room full of people, all waiting for you to begin your presentation. Now imagine that you begin with the words “Did you hear the one about…”. Believe it or not, you just started digging a very deep hole for yourself. You may be thinking, “but Rob, how do I avoid that?”

You have probably heard the old adage, tell them what your going to tell them, then tell them, then tell them what you told them. The thing that is missing there is the essential need for you to develop a connection with your audience. You do not want to jump into that first main point until you have established that connection.

Here are three ways you can establish a connection right from the start. Each of these techniques is designed to be the very first thing you say when you address the audience. Let me repeat that, the very first thing you say. Why do I repeat that? Because someone will think I meant for you to use these techniques after “Ladies and Gentlemen”, or “I’m really glad to be here”, or “thank you Mr Toastmaster”, or… you get the idea.

What I am suggesting is to use one of the options below starting with your very first word.

The first method you can use is to open with a story or a quote. This is a 1-dimensional approach, since it only includes you speaking. If you use a story, remember to keep it “you focused” as much as possible. For example, “do you remember what it was like at your high school prom? You should have been there at mine when……you would have seen me…”. Use this method to include your audience in the story. Of course, the story should meet a few criteria:

– it should relate to your presentation

– it can include humor, but probably not include jokes

– you should be able to call back to it throughout the presentation. i.e. “Just like my high school prom date told me, ‘It’s just the way it is'”.

If you choose a quote, make sure you do a couple of things:

– again, it should relate to your presentation

– you should quote a source most (if not all) of the audience would be familiar with

– both the subject and the source should relate to your presentation. i.e. quote Gen Patton or Stephen Covey on leadership, Jay Leno or Dave Berry on humor, etc.

The next method you can use is to open with a question. This is a 2-dimensional approach, and had two really good purposes. The first is to get them thinking right off the bat. Once they are thinking, they are involved…and you are getting connected. Second, you can gauge their overall energy level by their response, and work your next segments accordingly.

The final method is opening with an activity. This is a 3-dimensional approach, since it involves true audience interaction. BEWARE- this is not for the novice or the unprepared crowd. It can be tough enough to make activities work in the middle of a presentation, but to open with one, you will need to be on your game. If you pull this one off, you will have a high energy room with an audience that is glued to your entire program. If you bomb it, well…ouch. I recommend feeling comfortable with leading activities in other parts of the speech before trying this.

A successful connection with your audience does not have to be a difficult pursuit. By using one of the techniques I have discussed, you can make that connection, feel comfortable and confident, and with practice, Ace your Opening.

10 Uses For Your Impact Driver

Not positive if you will really use a cordless impact driver too much if you get one? Or maybe you have got one already but are not doing work too much with it. Check out these ten ways to use your tool and finish the job fast!

Build a deck

Work smarter not harder next time you build a deck – use a cordless impact driver. You will set the screws in no time, and regardless of the fastener type you won’t strip the heads.

Purchase one with a low weight li-ion battery pack and keep from getting fatigued!

Am I boring you?

There’s nothing like curing boredom than creating something round the house. Like wood chips. Or a hole. A huge hole. Bore some massive holes using some massive torque.

If you need to hog out some huge holes with that spade bit, and you are not close to an outlet for your regular drill, use an impact driver to blast through without killing your battery. Since the power isn’t provided just by the motor, even difficult jobs won’t kill a battery as quick as a regular drill.

Replace those tires

You will probably need a minimum of an 18 volt model; however if the mechanic who put on your wheels wasn’t too aggressive you most likely have enough torque to take off those lug nuts in no time.

If they’re too tight or rusted or otherwise stuck, use a breaker bar to knock em loose, then move over to your powered impact driver to make short work of the rest. Then grease everything up, and screw them right back on.

Another tip: for those of you without a regular floor jack, speed up the tiny scissors-jack that comes with the automobile and use the cordless impact driver rather than the tiny lug wrench.

Rock your socks off

Yes, you can put up wall board with an impact driver. In fact, the low weight and small size make it easy to wield and less tiring, too. Be careful not to become too carried away! Some impact drivers are too hard to regulate with a light press. If you think you would possibly have that issue simply grab a drywall screw adapter and go to town.

Pre-drilled holes

With a chuck-adapter or a set of hex-shafted drill bits, you’ll be able to transform your driver into a drill. Quickly drill out holes near the edges or ends of the workpiece. Although the powered driver has the strength to sink a screw without the assistance, this can prevent splitting and cracking.

Do not lag behind

Driving lag bolts is where these tools show off their strength. A cordless drill simply does not have the power to set long lags while not killing the batteries. You will still want to drill a pilot hole to prevent the wood from cracking, but luckily you already have the tool for that job, too…

Make certain you’ve got an impact-rated socket or you may break it and be looking for a new socket set before you know it.

What’s so screwy?

Driving screws, of course! This is why most people get an impact driver to begin with. Quick speed, high power, no cam out, easy to handle… should we continue? Of course, you will now have to worry about tearing the heads off of some of the weaker screws. It’s a small price to pay!

If you have ever attempted to put a 4″ polymer-coated exterior screw into pressure treated wood, over your head, with a drill, and barely got partially in before it started to strip… you understand what we are talking about.

This is illuminating

Many of the current cordless impact drivers sport a bright LED in the front. This allows you to work in the back of the cabinet beneath the sink easily.

Get one like the Makita with ‘Afterglow’ and you’ll be able to even see for 10 seconds after releasing the trigger switch – that ought to be long enough to get to that mini-fridge within the garage without anyone seeing!

Nutty!

We’ve already written a very little about lug nuts, however there are heaps of nuts out there. And they all need to be tightened. Or loosened.

Anyway, the point is that by using a nut-driver attachment, or with a socket adapter and socket set, you’ll be able to quickly finish any nut-wrenching jobs with minimal effort.

There’s a reverse mode, too!

So you have already engineered a deck, but now you’ve got to disassemble the old deck before you rebuild. There’s not much worse than 15 year old rusty looking screws that are buried in wood. You’ll be able to tell in a glance that they don’t want to turn. And you know from experience that a drill will end up stripping half of them, if you are lucky.

Conversely, impact drivers have the power to loosen them up while not stripping those heads – which you already knew if you were paying attention.

Start off simple if you’re dealing with old fasteners – an excessive amount of power, too quickly, and you will rip the top off while leaving the remainder of the screw buried within the decking. And then you’ve got another kind of problem.

Calculating Power Supplies for LED Strip Lights

If you are planning on installing LED strip lights (also known as LED tape) you need to be able to accurately calculate the power required. Having insufficient power supply will lead to only some (or none) of the LEDs illuminating, or can cause irritation flicker. An over specified power supply will cost more to buy, and will also be harder to fit as they are bigger.

To calculate the power supply required for your new LED strip lights, you need to know:

  • Length of the strip or tape
  • Number of LEDs per metre
  • Power consumption per LED

To calculate the size of power supply (in Amps) you need to multiply the length of the LED tape by the number of the LEDs per metre and then multiply this by the power of the LED (0.08w to 0.24w per LED are typical values). Then divide the value by 12 volts to calculate the required Amperage of the power supply.

(Length of LED Strip x LEDs per Metre x LED Power) / 12

We recommend you add at least 10% to the calculated value to allow for resistance and losses in the cables. You would also need to allow for any possible expansions or additions in the future. Most LED Strip Lights can have additional sections added using joining cables.

Calculation Examples:

Example 1: A 5m roll of SMD3528 (0.08w) with 60LED/m would be: (5m x 60 x 0.08) / 12 = 2amps +10% = 2.2Amps.

Example 2: A 5m roll of SMD5050 with 60LED/m would be: (5m x 60 x 0.24) / 12 = 6amps +10% = 6.6Amps.

For any LED strips over 2 metres in length you can provide a 12volt feed to both ends of the strip or one feed in the middle, by cutting the strip into two and connecting the power supply to both strips. This gives a more even power distribution and should provide a more consistent illumination.

LED Strip Light Uses

There are two main reasons for using LED strips. One is efficiency – LED lights are very efficient, with most of the power going to produce light, not heat. Their extremely long life (20,000 hours is typical) means that they also do not need replaced very often, leading to vastly reduced lifetime costs.

The other reason is aesthetic. LED lights can be made extremely small – some LED lighting strips are as thin as 4mm – and so can be installed in places where traditional lights would not fit. Add to this the various LED colour options, including RGB LEDs with remote controlled colour changing abilities. This gives a whole new range of possible lighting effects that can dramatically change the look of a room.

LED Lighting Tax Aspects of Furniture Chains

The 2008 collapse of the U.S. housing market had a particularly damaging effect on the domestic furniture industry. A virtual freeze on new and existing home purchases resulted in a drastic decline in sales for furniture chains who, prior to the collapse, dominated the industry primarily by selling foreign-made furniture. The furniture industry has largely evolved into an import model where huge warehouses store the furniture that is then sold in retail show rooms. Some major brands use large, warehouse-like structures as their retail facilities. As the economy continues to improve, these companies will be able to realize significant energy cost savings and very large EPAct tax deductions by installing LED lighting in their showrooms along with energy-efficient lighting and heaters in their distribution centers.

Large store showrooms looking to showcase their furniture can use LED’s for focused lighting, while huge warehouses that hold the furniture before it reaches retail storefronts can realize tremendous operating cost reductions by installing LED’s or other energy-efficient lighting. While each of these building types involves a distinct planning process with different tax implications, LED lighting can drive large tax deductions for all furniture chain facilities.

The Section 179D EPAct Tax Opportunities

Pursuant to Energy Policy Act (EPAct) Section 179D, furniture chains making qualifying energy-reducing investments in their new or existing locations can get immediate tax deductions of up to $1.80 per square foot.

If the building project doesn’t qualify for the largest EPAct $1.80 per square foot immediate tax deduction, there are tax deductions of up to $0.60 per square foot for the three major building subsystems: lighting, HVAC (heating, ventilating, and air conditioning), and the building envelope. The building envelope is every item on the building’s exterior perimeter that touches the outside world including roof, walls, insulation, doors, windows and foundation.

Alternative Energy Tax Credits and Grants

Pursuant to the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act of 2009, there are multiple 30% or 10% tax credits available for a variety of alternative energy measures with varying credit termination dates. For example, the 30% solar tax credit and the 10% geothermal heat pump tax credit expire January 1, 2017.

All alternative measures that are eligible for the 30% and 10% tax credits are also eligible for equal cash grants for the three years staring January 1, 2009 and ending December 31, 2011.

Unique 2011 Opportunity: Enhanced Bonus Tax Depreciation

Solar P.V. and geothermal systems are ordinarily eligible for 5-year MACRS depreciation, but building owners who install these systems after September 8, 2010 through December 31, 2011 can take 100% depreciation tax bonus immediately. Even if building owners miss this 2011 window, they can enjoy a 50% tax depreciation bonus on equipment placed in service from January 1, 2012 through December 31, 2012.

The Tax Planning Implications for Furniture Chains

Showrooms and EPAct 179D

LED lighting is excellent for presenting furniture because it provides a high-powered, focused beam ideally suited for showroom floors. The shopper is naturally drawn to the furniture because of the LED’s spotlighting effect. For this reason, the Ashley Furniture showroom in Boca Raton, Florida has opened one of the first furniture stores seeking LEED certification for its inclusion of, among other things, LED lighting. Since this store is nearly 100,000 sq. ft. large, it will be eligible for up to $60,000 in tax deductions for lighting alone, and potentially greater EPAct deductions for qualifying HVAC equipment and building envelope measures. Indeed, as part of its plan to seek LEED certification, Ashley installed high-performing, low-emitting glass with automatic shades that conserve energy and rooftop solar tubes at its Boca site. A qualified professional can convert Ashley’s required LEED energy model into an EPAct tax model.

Warehouse Lighting and EPAct 179D

Building lighting comprises a large part of furniture warehouse energy use. Most warehouses that have not had a lighting upgrade to energy-efficient lighting in the last 7 or 8 years use earlier generation metal halide or T-12 fluorescent lighting. It is important to realize that effective January 1, 2009, most probe-start metal halide lighting may no longer be manufactured or imported into the United States and, effective July 1, 2010, most T-12 lighting may no longer be manufactured or imported into the United States. This means that warehouses that still have older lighting technology will soon be, or already are, subject to large price increases for replacement lamps and bulbs.

This earlier generation T-12 and metal halide lighting is energy-inefficient compared to today’s T-8 and T-5 lighting, and a lighting retrofit can easily cut lighting electricity costs by 40 to 60 percent. In addition to large energy cost reductions from upgrading basic building lighting, most warehouses undergoing lighting retrofits install sensors that completely shut off lighting in portions of the warehouse that are not in use. Previously, many warehouse owners and lighting specialists were reluctant to install sensors because they reduced fluorescent lamp useful life. Today, with improved technology, sensors are available with warranties that protect against reduction in lamp useful life. In the furniture warehouse business, sensors will prove particularly useful because warehouses only need intermittent illumination. Combined with fluorescent, induction or, increasingly, LED lighting, sensors are a vital consideration to any furniture warehouse operator.

Warehouse Heating and EPAct 179D

New, improved commercial heating systems can give energy cost savings of 8 percent or more over the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) 2001 building code standards. There are multiple heater technologies suitable for the furniture warehouse market, including Cambridge direct fired gas heaters, unit heaters, and infrared (e.g. radiant) heaters. If it can be done, the warehouse heater could mount on an exterior wall to optimize the roof top space for a solar P.V. roof top system.

Typical Large Furniture Warehouses Obtain Large Tax Deductions

Many large warehouses have made the investments necessary to get the full $1.80 per square foot EPAct tax deduction. Since the EPAct tax deductions relate to square footage, a 500,000 square foot furniture warehouse can secure a $900,000 EPAct tax deduction.

IKEA’s Pioneering Solar Projects

IKEA uses large integrated warehouse/retail facilities to directly sell furniture. The Swedish company has recently announced that it will install solar P.V. in some of its stores in Colorado, Massachusetts, and New Jersey. By taking advantage of its enormous, flat rooftops on its facilities, IKEA will be able to generate enough kilowatt-hours to power its own stores’ lighting and HVAC needs with energy left over to sell to utilities. Further, they are making the ideal use of their solar investment by installing highly energy-efficient geothermal heating systems and LED lighting. Geothermal typically generates large EPAct 179D tax deductions, especially when coupled with LED lighting. As noted above, the geothermal system will also be eligible for a 10% tax credit or grant and very favorable tax deprecation.

The New York Market

New York City has experienced a quicker economic recovery than the rest of the country, and furniture chains are acting now to try to capitalize on the city’s momentum. Cleveland-based Arhaus Furniture; Nadeau Corp., a West Coast-based seller of eclectic furnishings; and discounter Home Goods, a division within TJX, are all newcomers to the NYC scene and each is hoping to take advantage of the heightened demand than has often forced homeowners and renters into the suburbs to shop for their furniture. With the opening of 20,000 to 40,000 square foot retail centers, these companies have the opportunity to use LED lighting, and, in some locations, solar P.V., in their building design to drive down their operating expenses while utilizing large tax incentives.

Furniture Warehouse Tax Incentivized Energy-Efficient Design Process Steps

1. Assemble team including warehouse experts for EPAct tax incentives, utility rebates, lighting, heater, building envelope and solar energy.

2. See if roof is compatible for solar and heater. Obtain proposals for installations of solar installations and any other needed roof/insulation projects and any other needed roof/insulation projects.

3. Obtain lighting design that replaces all inefficient lighting. Compare and contrast costs of fluorescent, induction and LED lighting alternatives.

4. Obtain Cambridge heater or alternative heater proposals, taking into account possible roof designs.

5. Determine utility rebate based on all proposed separate and joined energy-efficient measures. Efficient lighting will cut electric use. Roof, insulation and heater will cut “therms.”

6. Determine tax incentives including EPAct Section 179D tax deduction benefit and solar credit tax deductions. EPAct is based on total project square footage, including mezzanines and pick and pack modules. The 30-percent solar tax credit is based on the total solar material and installation costs.

7. Prepare project proposal detailing project costs, energy savings, utility rebates and tax incentives.

8. Get project approved by building owner.

9. Hire contractors and execute project.

10. Have EPAct tax expert prepare model and tax documentation using IRS approved software.

11. Process utility rebates.

12. Reduce federal and state estimated tax payments to account for expected large EPAct tax deductions and credits.

13. Celebrate tax-enhanced energy-efficient warehouse achievement

Conclusion

U.S. furniture industry supply chain structures are ideally situated for LED lighting particularly in showrooms and integrated warehouse show rooms. Since EPAct tax savings relates to square footage, the industry’s large facilities drive large tax deductions. The required warehouses are typically large, flat roof structures that are ideal for solar P.V. Achieving energy reduction enhanced with tax savings will help this very competitive industry accelerate its recovery concurrently with overall economic recovery.

Language Barrier

Language is the human use of spoken or written words as a communication system this definition is according to Encarta dictionaries. Language in the world can not have a fix number, it changes over time. During the year 1997, it was stated that the Bible is translated over 2, 197 diverse language. That is a large number. How many language you can speak at the moment? Two? Three? Five? Eight? Ten?

You make speak more than ten or twenty languages but for sure you are not fluent with each of the languages. That is why when people met each other and came from different countries who speak different languages has a difficulty in talking to each other and expressing the real point of the message they want to deliver to you. It is hard for you to understand them all. Especially, if you only knew small number of language.

Then people think of a solution to this problem to avoid language  barriers . One way is by practicing a universal language for all. We used the languages who are spoken by most of the people and that is Mandarin, English and Spanish. By that, we you practice that languages you can travel in the whole world and meet different people and cultures with different races and languages without any difficulty in communication and expressing your point.

Not along time from now, my friend and I met someone who is from Europe and we can not understand her basic language. So, we use one of the languages who are spoken by many and thank God she can understand us. She just visits and has a vacation in my country for about a week. We are here guide while she is in our country, she invited us to go to there country to. We just said, hope so it will come. I have now a new friend who speaks in different tongue and that is amazing. By the way before she left, I saw her removing her false teeth. I thought it was an original tooth, she said I only let my true friends see me this way. She also added that she have that disease when she a kid, first it was just a gingivitis and it became a chronic periodontitis. I like her so much; she is very true and so nice of her to share that to us even though it is quite embarrassing for her.

Fireproof Electric Enclosures – Designs and Values

You may have come across several industrial product categories under electric enclosures. But have you ever come across their fireproof versions? Well, fireproof electric enclosures are important especially in shielding electronic goods from explosive atmospheres. They enhance the output by maintaining its quality and safety.

Fireproof electric enclosures do not guarantee prevention from fire around the device though. What they actually do is prevent fire from spreading all over the tool. In order to know more about the product, see through its typical designs and general standards.

Basic fireproof electric enclosure structure

Businesses that look for fireproof electric enclosure relay what they want in the end product. This is because each business has its own requirement for the device. However, behind this specification are basic design features to follow.

Cables and connectors are not directly accessible to the enclosure. When sealing the joints of the enclosure, rubber and some forms of flammable materials are not acceptable. There is also a standard minimum distance made between the outside core and the inner surface of the enclosure and this has to be followed during the machining and installation process. Fasteners are also sealed even if they have already covered the output.

On top of all the basic design features for a fireproof electric enclosure, careful testing is always critical. This is to assure that the real essence of constructing a fireproof product is met. Tests include identifying of maximum pressure and determining if the output can withstand explosion in a so-called combustible atmosphere.

Standards devised for fireproof electric enclosures

Standards are utilized to assure end users that the fireproof enclosure meets what the industry needs from the product. First, the product should have structural integrity. This is to assure end users that the enclosure is highly dependable and is tamper-proof. Next, repair and installation of the product should only be entrusted in the hands of certified experts. Experts should have undergone the necessary training before they qualify as makers of the product.

Fireproof electric enclosures should also be guided by safety protocols. Cables used to finish the entire output should also be gauged in such a way that they prove of reducing ignition or combustion risks. Since fireproof guidelines may differ from one nation to the other, some may depend upon terminal enclosure to complete the fireproof surrounding.

How To Remove Wallpaper

Removing  wallpaper  doesn’t have to be a tedious and dreadful project. Yes it will take a little time and some elbow grease but if you follow these steps you will end up with the  wallpaper  and glue completely removed and then you can move on to painting your walls or hanging new  wallpaper . First you will have to figure out which type of  wallpaper  you have. Basically there are two types. Most of the newer  wallpapers  are strippable while the older  wallpapers  will require more labor. I will show you how to remove both types.

Strippable  Wallpaper .

Tools Needed: Hot water with detergent mixed in, a sponge, rubber gloves and a painters spatula.

To determine if your  wallpaper  is strippable simple start in a corner and see if it will peel. Use your spatula to loosen stubborn areas and soften the glue using your sponge and detergent solution. Once all  wallpaper  is removed scrub the wall completely making sure all glue is removed. A gallon of hot water with 2 cups of vinegar will make this easier. You could also use solutions of fabric softener, various household cleaners and dish detergent. You can experiment to see which works best for you.

Older Non-Strippable  Wallpaper .

Tools Needed: A perforation tool such as utility knife or paper scorer, bottle of  wallpaper  remover, hot water, painters spatula, broad knife and a sprayer or paint roller.

Before you get started, make sure you have any nearby furniture and carpet covered with a tarp. Believe me, this is a tip you don’t want to forget as removing  wallpaper  is messy business. Most  wallpapers  have a water repelling layer on top to protect it. Because of this you will have to score that top layer to loosen the glue by using a utility knife or paper scorer (sometimes called a paper tiger). Using a crisscross pattern score the area to be removed. Do not cut too deeply as it can damage your wall. Mix the  wallpaper  remover according to the manufacturers instructions (DIF is a good  wallpaper  removal product and I would recommend it). Using a sprayer or paint roller moisten and scored areas and allow 15 to 30 minutes for the liquid wall paper remover to soak in. Next using your broad knife or painters spatula scrape off strips of  wallpaper  from the wall. It’s best to start from the bottom and work you way upward. The strips should come off without too much work. Keep working until all the paper removed from all areas.

Once all of the  wallpaper  is removed make sure to rinse the area with a heavy detergent mixed with hot water. Most likely there will be some minor repair needed for the drywall. You may need caulking around the windows, trim and ceiling areas. Once the sheetrock is completely dry you can sand the walls to remove any rough spots. Make sure to dust off the walls when finished.

If you don’t want to use the techniques listed above you could try using a steamer. Most rental stores or paint shops will rent one to you. When using a steamer make sure to work on smaller sections at a time. Once the  wallpaper  is loosened you need to use your broad knife or painters spatula and remove it by working your way up. Again, once the paper is removed you’ll need to clean the walls as described above.

Once your walls are completely dried they are ready for painting or new  wallpaper . Make sure you use a primer designed for that application. Since  wallpaper  is installed on smooth walls this would also be a good time to think about texture if you plan on painting the walls.

Now that’s how to remove  wallpaper . Enjoy your new walls!

Using An Insulation Blowing Machine

It is important to insulate the walls of a house, as this will prevent cool or warm air from coming in and out of the house. You can save a lot of electricity if the walls are properly insulated. No matter what the weather is, you can keep the house cozy when you use a heater or an air conditioning unit. This, there is no need to run these machines full blast (and suffer from high electricity bills), as long as the house has insulation.

When insulating an existing closed-up wall, it is ideal to do it by using the blown-in insulation method. You need to have an insulation blowing machine for this task. A blower forces different insulation materials into the attic or wall cavity such as fiberglass, rock wool and cellulose. You can rent an insulation blowing machine if you intend to do the job by yourself. However, it is a tedious task, which would often require a professional for efficiency in insulating the house.

There are different types of insulation blowing machines. Each type contains standard components such as the blower, hopper, the hose and the engine. Here are more details about the insulation blowing machine types.

1. Professional or Commercial-Grade Insulation Blowing Machine

This type of blower has massive capacity and heavy-duty materials. These professional-grade blowers can force in about 85 to 135 bags of insulation materials per hour. Some brands of blowers contain odor-free materials that are   noncombustible  and noncorrosive. For instance, Northern White blowing insulation does not contain chemicals that cause bacteria or mildew. Moreover, the material used with this blower will not absorb any amount of moisture that would cause decay.

Industrial-type blowers are also enormous in size. Some machines have a huge dimension of six feet by four feet and a hefty weight of up to 1,500 pounds. These blowers used for commercial purposes cost around $16,000 or even more. Nevertheless, you will find the blowers very efficient to use if you are working on a huge construction.

2. Lower-Capacity Insulation Blowing Machine

If you think that a blower that costs several thousand dollars is too overwhelming, you can consider using a blower with lower capacity. These blowers cost much cheaper, thus making them ideal for a low-budget company. However, you will expect lower volume and capacity specs with these machines. Several brands of lower-capacity blowers can force in about 450 pounds of fiberglass or 2000 pounds of cellulose insulation per hour. Hence, this type of blower is ideal for residential buildings and even commercial establishments that do not require a massive blowing insulation machine.

The lower-capacity blower is also quite light, as compared to professional-grade ones. You can also move the machine easily because it comes with wheels. A typical blower with low capacity weighs about 300 pounds, and it can fit perfectly at the back of a truck.

Aside from the size and capacity of the two types of blowers, there is also a difference in how they are powered. The professional grade blowers use gas to power the motors, while the low capacity can use about 20 amp of household circuit.

Although the insulation process may appear simple, it is still much better to leave the work to professionals. Renting a blower can cost you about a hundred dollars; moreover, the whole process can be very long and tiring. The process is also quite tricky because you have to do the insulation perfectly to achieve excellent results. Hence, it would do you well to consult a professional who can handle the insulation of your attic or the walls in your house.

Elegant Wedding Tent Decor

Outdoor weddings are incredibly popular. If you are planning to have a tent over your reception area, you will have some special design challenges. How do you go about transforming a plain white tent into an elegant and unforgettable reception?

One of the nice things about having your wedding reception in a tent is that you are basically starting with a blank slate. The natural beauty of your site can serve as inspiration, but you will not be faced with trying to work around a pre-existing color palette as you would at an indoor venue. This is the good news. The freedom afforded by that blank slate is also going to be your biggest decorating challenge; when you start with a mass of white fabric, deciding where to start can feel like staring at a blank page with writer’s block!

The trends for decorating an outdoor wedding are similar to what brides are doing for inside receptions. At a tented wedding, you may find more natural elements being used, but the basic framework is still going to be the same. You want your tent décor to fit in with your overall style.

If you are having a very classic ceremony and the bride is wearing a traditional gown with custom pearl bridal jewelry, then you want that timeless feeling to carry through into your reception décor. On the other hand, if you are wearing a daring designer gown and your bridal jewelry is custom made from unique and organic looking keshi pearls, you will want to find more eclectic design elements for your tent.

The hottest trend for weddings inside or outside is to hang decorations from the ceiling. Often this is in the form of a chandelier. You can rent one massive crystal chandelier for the center of the tent if your reception is going to be very formal, or have smaller feminine chandeliers suspended over each table. This is an interesting flip on the idea of bringing the outside to an inside venue. In this case, you are making your reception more elegant by bringing an indoor element, such as a chandelier, to an outdoor space, the tent. It will certainly be a surprising element that your guests will notice right away.

If you love the idea of hanging something in your tent, but do not want to use traditional chandeliers, there are many other great options. Handcrafted lighting fixtures can be created using natural materials such as grapevine and flowers for an earthy feeling. You can also go with a modern elegant style and suspend clear plexiglass squares covered with pillar candles for a glowing and chic ambiance.

When you are trying to make a plain white tent appear more elegant, it is important to cover up the utilitarian parts of it, such as posts and other supports. There are many beautiful ways to do this. One idea is to drape lengths of fabric from the ceiling of the tent. If you choose a soft color like peach or rose, it will also cast a very flattering glow onto the skin of everyone present. Fabric can also be used to hide vertical supports in a tent. One of the most stylish ways to do is is hang draperies around the posts so that they look like part of your design, rather than something unattractive that you are trying to hide.

A tented wedding can have a magic all of its own. You have the ability to transform your wedding reception into a place that brings your vision to life. When you take the time to consider the tent decorations, the result will be a gorgeous space to dine and dance the night away.

Why Rubber Flooring Is Increasing In Popularity

With an increasing number of people realizing the benefits of rubber flooring, this type of product is gaining popularity fast. The use of Rubber Floor is of great help in areas that are exposed to spills or deterioration due to heavy traffic. Despite the versatility it offers, floor covering specialists tend to overlook this medium of covering. Many people have a false impression that it is difficult to maintain rubber flooring, and consider it to be very costly. Well, it may not be among the cheaper options for covering floors, but it pays for itself in the long run due to its long life. When following the instructions provided by the manufacturer, its maintenance becomes easy. If you are looking for floor covering option, you should certainly consider rubber matting.

Natural resilience, low maintenance and exceptional durability are inherent characteristics of this flooring. These properties make rubber flooring a number one option for various applications. These are already being used by commercial and public establishments, health care industry and retailers.

Here are some other significant advantages of rubber flooring:

Resilient and comfortable

Rubber makes an excellent surface for floors where people need to stand for long. Since it is naturally resilient, it provides a slight cushioning effect which helps reducing the weariness plus the foot injury. Moreover, it doesn’t cause any static buildup and thus is an excellent material for use in bars and restaurant kitchens.

Recyclable

Rubber is a recyclable material and therefore helps maintaining a healthier environment. Recycled rubber is used for producing landscaping mulch and for preparing the surfaces of playgrounds or athletic fields. If needed, rubber can also be treated with adherent paint conforming to EPA specifications. The final product we get as a result of this treatment is rubber mulch, an economical, environment friendly material that is used for getting attractive, long lasting landscaping surface, which is known to be the safest and cleanest.

Easy maintenance

Rubber flooring is an excellent material for covering spaces in educational, commercial, government and institutional facilities. The reasons include its long life, anti skid properties and resilience that offer comfort to users. These properties, along with its availability in novel colors and designs, is prompting a number of designers and architects to recommend this material to an increasing number of establishments. It is being aptly exploited by building owners plus facility managers.

Plastic flooring continues to gain popularity as its striking designs and colors match very well with the present architectural styles without compromising the sustainability and performance, and even cost. Apart from being durable, rubber flooring helps improving the quality of indoor air, being environment friendly. Because of its availability in varied textures and color, rubber flooring is gradually being favored for use in residences. Households will find it an ideal material for use in laundry and the recreation area, home bars, mud room as well as home offices.

Is a Pump Needed to Build Muscle?

Who could ever forget that famous line from  Pumping  Iron where Arnold said that getting a good  pump  was better than sex?

We all laughed, although some of us harder than others, because deep down we agreed with what he said. But after all these years, the question still remains- is a good  pump  a defining component of a productive muscle building workout. Is it really that important?

Some people emphatically state that getting a good  pump  is necessary if you want to build muscle. There are no studies that show this to be true, but real world evidence shows that there is something to getting a good  pump . First of all, the ability to easily obtain a good  pump  is a sign that your body is in an anabolic state and ready to train. It shows us that the body and the cells are well hydrated and ready to grow.

Some days, you go to the gym and can’t get a  pump  no matter what you do. Those are days that you probably shouldn’t even be training. Your body is telling you something, and that something is that you are not in an anabolic state, probably not fully recovered, and you are not ready to train. In other words you will not be building muscle on that day.

As far as the  pump  having an anabolic effect, this is debatable, but most bodybuilders swear that there is something to it. When you get a good  pump , you are delivering tons of nutrient-rich blood to the muscles that will greatly increase amino-acid uptake. Theoretically, this should result in a greater anabolic effect.

The kind of training that stimulates a good  pump  causes sarcoplasmic and mitochondrial hypertrophy. This is the kind of hypertrophy which is lost very quickly when you stop training. It is completely different from myofibrillar hypertrophy, which comes from heavy training and lasts much longer. However, sarcoplasmic and mitochondrial hypertrophy is necessary if you want to be as big as humanly possible.

So, while it isn’t proven by science, there is probably something to gain from getting a good  pump . Having said that, I definitely wouldn’t make it the focus of your workout. Chasing the  pump  and disregarding all of the principles of

effective training is one of the biggest mistakes you can make and will do nothing to help you build lean muscle.

You can get a great  pump  from doing 50 pushups but everyone knows that’s not going to build muscle. Just mindlessly pursuing a  pump  will get you nowhere and may even cause losses in size and strength. However, after you have done the bulk of your workout you can always finish with a backoff set, a rest/pause set or even an occasional drop set to maximize your  pump  and thus maximize your body’s muscle building potential.

For example, on your chest workout you could do a couple heavy sets on the bench press for 5-6 reps and then finish with one higher rep set of 8-12 on dips to get a great  pump . If you do this you hit a variety of muscle fibers and target both types of hypertrophy. That way you get the best of both worlds.

Remember, it isn’t necessary and should never be the focus of your workouts (heavy training should) but getting a good  pump  tells you that you’re ready to build muscle and can even maximize your potential to do so.

Belly Fat Diet Plan

If you want to know how to lose the fat on your stomach, you do have to appreciate that it does have its challenges. But, if you have the right information, a belly fat diet plan does not have to be as hard as it may initially appear. As a starting point, totally avoid processed foods and substitute them with nutrient-dense, natural foods. This first step will certainly help you to lose the fat on your stomach and you will lose weight and feel healthier in a much quicker way than you thought possible.

Fresh Fruit and Vegetables

Make sure that you include a wide range of fresh fruit and vegetables to what you eat each day as these foods help you get the nutritional supplements you need to support your body system. For example, calcium is good for healthy bones. Vitamin C helps your immune system and vitamin A supports healthier vision and skin.

Fruits and vegetables are rich sources of carbohydrates and fibre. Carbs are essential because they provide fuel for your body system. Fibre manages the bowels and expands in your stomach to help you remain fuller for longer. And obviously, the longer than you feel full, the less you will eat and the more likely you are to lose the fat on your stomach.

Poultry and Beans

Beans and poultry provide your body with protein it needs to stay healthy. Protein is referred to as the foundation of the body system for a reason. It is found almost everywhere in the body system. Without it, you will experience problems like exhaustion, sleeping difficulties, and weakness.

As beans and poultry are high in protein they provide very satisfying meals which means that you are less inclined to over eats your appetite is satisfied.

Lean Meats

As part of your belly fat diet plan try to include lean meats. This will provide your body with iron which help to manage fatigue, issues regulating the temperature, headaches and dizziness.

Healthy Fats

Although it might sound odd, you do need to eat healthy fats as part of your belly fat diet plan. Such food items as fish and raw nuts provide good sources of healthy fats. These fats develop the brain, provide the body system with energy and help produce hormones. Fats also enable your body system use vitamins more efficiently.

Be Patient

If you remove processed junk food from your daily diet and substitute them with the meals listed above, you can lose the fat on you stomach but it will not happen overnight. The secret of how to lose the fat on your stomach is to have a sensible diet plan that you can stick to with foods that you like eating. When you combine this with an exercise program you will lose your belly.

How to Kiss the Neck

Possibly one of the most underrated abilities available in a man’s repertoire of seduction. Definitely overlooked as an ability in a WOMAN’S repertoire of seduction, the neck kiss can evoke amazing results if done correctly, and if the recipient happens to be particularly sensitive in their neck, there’s no telling what may happen!

How to Kiss a Girl’s Neck

This is for the gentlemen. Ladies, I’ll be talking to you in just a bit. Guys, it’s time to learn how to kiss a girls neck. When you are getting ready to kiss a girl on the neck, you need to know how powerful of a move this is. This is a kiss that gets very intimate, very close, very fast. This kiss can be made from a normal make out session, or can be started on the dance floor. There are no really set rules when it comes to how to kiss a girl on the neck.

From a make out session: Just break off the kiss, and use a hand to tilt her head back. This will give you a clear approach. Bring your face in and lay down small kisses, or pecks all around her neck, throat, chin line, and collar bone. Also, the soft area under the ear is a great spot to concentrate your kisses. You can try spreading out the kissing, or laying them down in a line. Keep them short, do not lick or slobber on her throat, just try to go with the small pecks.

While dancing: If you have been dancing for a few minutes, and you aren’t sure what to do to intensify your interaction, you should start kissing the girl’s neck. It should not be hard to figure out how to kiss her neck. Just lean your head over her back (assuming you are taller than she is and her back is to you) and breathe gently on her neck. Then take her hair and softly pull it to one side of her head. At this point, she may even help you, by pulling her hair sideways.

If you’re doing these things right, then your girl will probably be closing her eyes, tilting her head back, and maybe even sighing with enjoyment.

How to Kiss a Guy’s Neck

Finally, what you’ve been waiting for ladies. I bet you never guessed that guys’ necks can be just as sensitive as your own when it comes to a little wandering lip action.

The best part about kissing a guy on the neck is that sometimes he won’t expect it. It feels great, believe me. Having a girl’s lips nuzzling up against his throat and caressing his neck muscles, will send shivers right down the spine of any straight guy lucky enough to experience this. Follow pretty much the same rules as listed above for guys kissing the neck. Try surprising your guy by grabbing him from behind, wrapping your arms around him, and softly kissing the back of his neck.

ONE MORE THING!

You know how to kiss the neck, but when you’re kissing the neck, there’s a place that you can EASILY transition to that is so extremely arousing, it will leave both guys and girls out of breath and begging for more. Read More about this on my blog, How to Kiss Good Look for the article about the Sexy Secret Spot.