Chronic Ankle Sprains In The Professional And Amateur Athlete

Problems with your ankle after a sprain? It may have never healed properly.

It is estimated that 40% of all people who suffer an ankle sprain will suffer chronic pain and weakness in that ankle long-term. The reason? Your ankle never healed properly. Here is why: Our ankles are held together by ligaments and tendons, strong bands of connective tissue. Ligaments hold the ankle bones together while tendons attach the muscles to the bones.

When ankle sprains occur, the ligaments of the ankle are stretched and torn. Most commonly, ankle sprains occur when the athlete lands unevenly from a leap or jump, or has someone fall on their ankle during contact sports. Sprains can also occur when stepping into a hole or divot on a playing field or golf course. The severest of ankle sprains are the extreme or violent twist or “roll-over” of the ankle causing a hyper-extended turning in or turning out of the foot. The turning out injury causes a sprain of the anterior talofibular ligament, and this is the most commonly injured part of the ankle.

When ankle sprain is suspected, the severity of the injury is then graded by a medical professional and a treatment suggested.

Grading the sprain

Grade 1 sprain:

A grade 1 sprain is the least severe of ankle sprains. The ligaments are slightly stretched with a minimum of tearing to the ligament fibers. More of a discomfort than pain is felt as the athlete can usually “walk it off.”

Grade 2 sprain:

There is stretching of the ligaments and partial tearing causing an unstable or loose joint. The condition is also referred to as ligament laxity as the ligament, now stretched beyond its normal range has become weakened or lax, as an overstretched rubber band. There is noticeable swelling and tenderness and depending on extent of injury, instability when walking.

Grade 3 sprain:

A complete tear of the ligament causing extreme instability, swelling, and pain

Grading the treatment:

Grade 3 sprains are not the most common forms of ankle sprains and surgery may be prescribed, but this is rare since the ligament usually scars over during healing.

Is it the treatment at fault?

The “gold” standard of treatment in Grade 1 and Grade 2 sprains is RICE. Rest, ice, compression, and elevation. Recently however this therapy has been debated by some physicians because of the high incidence of chronic or recurrent ankle sprains.

Among the theories put forth questioning the RICE treatment is that it does not fully allow the ligaments to heal because it reduces and impedes inflammation that is needed to stimulate new tissue regeneration.

Creating inflammation to heal the ankle sprain

Basic medicine tells us that the body’s natural healing response is inflammation. Inflammation is the trigger for the immune system to begin the cascade of events in injury repair. When ligaments do not heal completely, they weaken and put the athlete at risk for chronic ankle sprain.

Preventing with Prolotherapy

When there is not enough inflammation to heal a ligament injury, some physicians have turned back to a new “old-fashioned,” treatment to jump start the healing processes. Prolotherapy was first introduced in the 1950’s as a means to cure chronic pain by strengthening the ligaments of weakened, loose joints by creating inflammation – not suppressing it.

Prolotherapy works by introducing a mild irritant through injection to the exact spot of the ligament damage. This irritant is usually something as benign as simple dextrose. What the dextrose does is create a small, controlled inflammation at the spot of injury accelerating healing and returning strength and resiliency to the ligament and stability to the ankle. In remittent cases, PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma) is used as a stronger proliferant.

Prolotherapy is gaining adherents among athletes because it is minimally invasive, does not require long periods of inactivity and in fact, a Prolotherapy doctor will usually recommend supervised activity or a recommend training plan to get the athlete back on the field as fast as possible.

One to six treatments is typical for the competitive athlete, spaced at weekly intervals.

Koran And The Jewish People

Koran

The word Koran in Hebrew has three different interpretations of the simple meaning of the word: the horn of an animal. The horn of the animal plays a major part in Jewish life from the very beginning when Avraham slay a ram instead of his son. The horn of the ram is blown every Rosh HaShana for over 3500 years as a way to cry out to God. The word Koran / Horn comes up in many metaphors like when Chana in gratitude of the barren who bare a child after many years acknowledging to God saying, I will lift up my horn. The oil kept for anointing was kept in a horn.

The Cabalists arrange the meaning of Koran / Horn in three different categories: strength, essence and illumination; when Moshe comes down from the mountain with the Ten Commandments his face is beaming with Koran Ore / Horn Light. One of the attributes of the horn is being considered as nothing – therefore left behind with the carcass, but in Cabala nothing – that which is beyond being – is the highest of all. Strength, essence and illumination are qualities which all human beings strive to acquire and all three come out of nothing as seen in the three categories of the word Koran / Horn.

These three categories of the word Koran / Horn also have an application to the word Koran / Corner. The corner is also made of three components: two walls and the connection between; though it may seem a simple thing, theoretically the line between the two walls is as etheric as an infinitesimal point. It is the great strength through the essence that brings the fire of illumination melding two disparate planes together.

There is a practical implication to all this.

One of the purposes that the Koran was given to the Arab People was in order to make a corner out of the Middle East; Mohammad welcomed the Koran to the rabbis asking that the Arab and Jewish People, the People of the Book, should be joined together in coalition, but the Rabbis declined and as a result masses of Jewish population were extricated from that area until today. The rabbis thought the great wall of Torah was sufficient to stand by itself, but they were wrong.

The Jewish People became eclipsed in the shadow of the Koran and now 1500 years later a great animosity has arisen between these two brothers of a common father – Avraham. After Rosh HaShana and Yom HaKipur comes the holiday of Succoth where it is obligatory to make a structure of four walls and sit benefit the boughs of evergreen branches; the structure must have at least two corners. The corners do not change or compromise, in any degree, the uniqueness of each wall.

When the Jewish People with the Torah and the Arab People with the Koran unite together through the love of brotherhood, then there will be peace in the Middle East.

5 Barriers to Workplace Flexibility

Workplace flexibility, results-only work environments, and work-life balance initiatives often get stopped in their tracks before there's even an attempt at making them work. Why? Because people fear change, fear losing control, and are concerned about potential negative implications that may or may not be realized.

Here are five barriers to workplace flexibility that may be holding you and your organization back from fully embracing the flexibility you want and need.

1. Resistance to change.

Our natural state is to resist change and overcoming that requires some work. Defense mechanisms and a "that will never work here" attitude must be bypassed before true change can take place.

2. Concerns about equity.

People often ask about how to handle the perception of fairness among employees regarding who gets flexibility and who does not. Different jobs and positions will be charged for varying degrees of flexibility, but you can combat concerns about equity by providing every employee, regardless of position, with more control over how, when, and where they do their job.

3. Fears of abuse.

This is a common fear, especially when employees begin working outside of the office. Managers fear workers will take advantage of the system. There's an underlining concern of, "if I can not see you, how do I know you're working?" The problem with this is that in your current work environment you probably have employees abusing the system and even though you can see them, there's no guarantee they're working either. This fear is really more a fear of losing control, but as a manager, how much control do you really have or need anyway? You can only control yourself-you influence those around you.

4. Employees worry they'll be penalized or punished for choosing flexible work.

Many workers believe there is job jeopardy associated with working flexibly. Concerns about face time, other employee's perceptions, and worries flexibility will hurt your career are very real considerations. The idea of ​​job jeopardy stems from employers who offer flexibility and then penalize its use; which should never happen.

Another source of this barrier comes from employees and managers who believe promotion primarily depends on face time. In these situations, if you're out of sight, you're out of mind and may miss out on career opportunities.

5. Flexible workers take more time to manage.

This is a common misconception. Just because workers are opting to work flexible hours, schedules, or in other locations, does not mean it will take more time for the manager. Leaders may need to develop a different skill set or style, but it should not require more time. In fact, JP Morgan Chase found that 95% of their managers said it did not require more time to manage flexible workers, 88% said there was no negative impact on supervision, and 66% said it increased their management skills.

Do you see yourself or your organization putting up any of these barriers to workplace flexibility? If so, what steps can you take to overcome them? FEAR is just False Evidence Appearing Real . Focus on the facts about workplace flexibility and what's really happening within your organization and you'll be able to break down the barriers and enjoy more flexibility in how, when, and where you work.

© 2009 Ashley Acker

Nonflammable Thatched Roofs

The potential flammability of the thatched (or any other natural material, e.g. wood shingles) roofing is frequently a reason why the homeowners do not decide to thatch their houses.

They are right – reed is flammable…

and they are wrong – we live now in times when science is able to turn any flammable stuff into a nonflammable (even fire retardant) material (I strongly hope we are just one step away from inventing the nonflammable safety matches).

In the past, the thatchers solved this problem with dipping the thatching straw into the mud. It formed a hard, nonflammable crust over the thatched roofing so it was quite safe when confronted with some smaller fires (fireplace sparks, etc…).

Nowadays you have much more possibilities how to make your thatched roof fireproof as well.

Following methods of fireproofing your thatch roof are worth your consideration:

Fire retardant sprays for thatched roofing

There are some substances available on the market, like e.g. Flame Stop I-DS, which prevent the spread of flames by developing a chemically self extinguishing reaction.

Most of them are available in the form of an aerosole (spray).

Fireproof aluminum foils

As aluminum is perfectly nonflammable material (it is a metal able to last high temperatures) even a thin foil helps to keep your house interriors thermally separated from the roof (this is the method that doesn´t protect the roofing material itself – let it burn, if fire is its destiny, but rather keeps the other parts of the house separated and so safe from the roof in flames).

Fireproof batts (thatch batts) that are usually used for filling the roof framing spaces between the truss beams. Thatch batts actually are the rockwool batts, again, separating the thatched roofing from another parts of the house.

Do you think none of the above mentioned methods would protect your home enough from fire?

Separately maybe they wouldn´t… but why don´t you combine them? You´ll get one really reliable, water- and fireproof, natural, ecological and cool-looking thatching material that last years and is quickly reparable at low cost.

Cleaning Up Oil Spills in Your Garage

One of the worse things which can be spilled on a floor is oil. It is one of the hardest things to effectively clean up, since the film stays behind after it has been cleaned. There are a few different techniques you could use, though, so that you are able to get the oil off of your floor as soon as possible. The sooner you get the oil off of the floor, the better chance you have of it not ruining the spot where it landed.

The most common way for people to clean oil is to use a rag or paper towels to be able to soak up the excess. This works for a quick clean up, but the film will still remain on the ground after you have cleared away the bulk of it. For you to truly be able to clean up the oil, such as compressor oil, you will need to use something such as paint thinner or turpentine. This will break away the film on the ground so that you will be able to pass with another clean rag or towel so that you can effectively clean away whatever remains.

Another way to clean up oil is to use your air compressor parts to be able to push away the excess oil. Make sure if you use this method that you have a safe place for the oil to go to. You can not simply blow the oil away from one area to put it somewhere else, nor are you able to push the oil outside. Once the oil would hit the ground, there would be a chance that it would be able to pollute the environment. Another good reason for not pushing the oil onto the ground is that if you should get done, you could be heavily fined.

Which ever method you choose, it is important to make sure that the oil is immediately cleaned up. Waiting to see whether or not it will still be there later can lead to much more serious problems than if you should simply clean it up. If you are concerned about getting oil on your clothing or hands, you can buy latex gloves for yourself and coverings for your clothes so that you will not have to deal with this problem.

Not cleaning up an oil spill, such as compressor oil, can lead to problems, such as permanently staining the area benefit it. The oil will be able to soak into the material and embed itself there. Once oil becomes embedded, it is very difficult to remove it without having to replace the spot where it fell. An oil spill can also lead to other hazards, such as slipping and falling on the ground. If this is your shop, you could find yourself having to pay for someone else's medical bills because of this.

Oil spills can seem like a problem at first, but with enough cleaning supplies and your air compressor parts; you will soon find yourself being able to tackle them long before they become a problem. This also makes for a clean work environment for you and that can lead to better results.

How to Choose The Best Fireproof Gun Safes

Homeowners are concerned with the safety of their families and homes. The methods used to make sure this safety varies, depending on the beliefs of the occupant. An increasingly common method is having a firearm. With all the thought directed at securing the safety of your home, not enough is being directed at keeping your guns safe.

Selecting a fire-proof gun safe or a stronghold box for your firearms is a wise choice for anyone. It can keep those who are not intended to use the guns away from them safely. This results unauthorized use as well as accidents by curious youngsters. However, a secure place for your firearms should act to keep your guns secure within just as it should act to keep unauthorized users out.

When coming to select a gun safe, you should consider a few more factors than if it locks. Gun safes come in all different dimensions to accommodate all different types of firearms from rifles to handguns. It is wise to choose a size that is adequate to store the amount and type of weapons that you own.

You should also pay attention to whether it is a fireproof gun safe. Not all fireproof gun safes are created the same so it is worth a few features. Certain composites are more resistant to high heat than others. Not only is the composite material important but also the thickness of the walls of the safe should also be considered. The thicker the better of course but you will want to think about the weight of the item especially if it is being stored on an upper level or in a basement.

Several homeowners will buy a fireproof gun safe that is adequate to store all of their household valuables. If this is the case, you want to be sure that it is a burglar fire safe and is significant enough to protect the items stored within. Documents are not as durable as a gun, so if this is what you are making make sure your safe can with stand the abuse. If a business is located in the person's home then installing a home security system for extra safety is also a very good idea. Because you never know if you or your company is being desired by someone else and would try to take it from you.

Pistols, handguns, and rifles are an investment even for those that do not collect firearms. They are the one item that retains its value and in many cases appreciates over the life of the weapon. Because of this, they are easily fenced items on the black market. A fireproof gun safe is durable enough to withstand fire as well as ward off an invader in your home keeping your guns safe from theft.

There are many reasons for a person to secure their home. As there are many ways for a person to secure their home. However, if you are going to pick owning your own handsguns then you should consider carefully the best way to store them.

Everything You Need To Know About Fireplace Insulation Material

In order to reduce waste and save as much money on your home's energy system as you can, one of the best things you can do is to check your fireplace's insulation system. Just by adding insulation to your fireplace, you will be able to drastically control the heat levels in your home.

Your goal with fireplace insulation materials is to adequately isolate your fireplace. This will make your fireplace more heat efficient. Start by sealing the gaps between your fireplace opening and the insert. By not doing so, you're losing a lot of heat.

Closing the Gap

– Closing the gap in your fireplace dampers will be a two person job, so have a dependable coworker to help you. Begin by removing the cover plates, and then pulling the insert out far enough for sufficient space to stuff insulation into the gaps.

– Next, stuff fireproof insulation into the fireplace. The insulation should be fire resistant for up to two hundred and twelve degrees Fahrenheit, with a self-adhesive side of wrapped insulation.

– You can then slide the insert back into its former place, and reinstall the cover plates. If there is any loose insulation, it should be stuffed into any remaining gaps. If you need any additional help with this process, you can always seek the assistance of a chimney professional.

Insulation

– Each type of insulation has its pros and cons. For example, loose fibers can easily be pressed with an adhesive to make them more beneficial. In contrast, fibers that are chopped can easily be placed into tight places. Foam insulations are most often used because they can also be applied as insulation for a number of outside surfaces. Without any further ado, here are some types of fireproof insulation materials:

– Fiberglass is melted glass that can be spun out into glass fibers. Fiberglass does not burn, however, it is often covered in paper or foil that will burn, so be careful about what you buy. Almost all fiberglass is officially rated as being fireproof, but as a general rule of thumb, they should not be used in temperatures in excess of twelve hundred and twenty degrees. This makes fiberglass a very versatile choice for many fireplaces commonly seen in homes today.

– Mineral wool is recycled from iron ore blast surface, but it can also be produced from natural rocks. Due to its very high melting temperature, mineral role is almost noncombustible. Being able to withstand more thermal applications, mineral wool is a very robust and durable type of fireproof insulation.

– Glass wool is produced from recycled glass. It trains air to practice block out the heat. Glass wool is very lightweight and also incredibly flexible, but the greatest benefit to it is the ease of installation.

– Fibrous mats are composed of many different kinds of minerals that when put together are called asbestos. Asbestos is well known for its strength and resistance to heat, but the most notable benefit of it is how it does not conduct electricity. Asbestos is well used as insulation in many fireplaces today, and it's also affordable in comparison to some of the other alternatives.

Things to Note When Removing a Popcorn Ceiling

During the 60's and 70's popcorn ceilings were very popular, even into the early 80's people were to put up this type of textured ceiling. As time has gone by homeowners notice one thing about these types of ceiling, they are very difficult to clean! In addition, they really date your home much the same way as shag carpets can. Many people therefore are looking for a simple method of removing popcorn ceiling material.

First and Foremost

In the 70's asbestos was a popular building material and if your home was built or could have been remodeled in that time frame you will need to find out if the popcorn material contains any asbestos. In order to do this you should carefully moisten about four small areas of your ceiling, these should measure about one inch square. Gently scrape away the material with a putty knife and place it in a zip lock bag. You will have to call around to find a local laboratory that can test the material for you.

If the test results show any traces of asbestos you will need to call a professional to have it removed or cover the ceiling with a new drywall ceiling instead. It is not advisable to remove this material yourself due to the cancer causing properties of asbestos. However if the tests are clean you are set to proceed.

Mess

Once the issue of asbestos is, out of the way removing popcorn ceiling material is straightforward; however, you should be prepared for a mess. If at all possible you will want to remove your furniture and collectibles from the room. The best option for keeping the mess to a minimum is putting down tarps; you may even want to tape them around the edges or at the corners.

Removal

Removing popcorn ceiling material can be done in two ways. You can dry sand the material off the ceiling, however this creates massive amounts of fine dust particles and is generally left to professionals with specific equipment. The most common method for removing popcorn ceiling material is with a spray bottle and a scraper.

Simply spray plain water on a section of the ceiling, the same way you took your sample earlier and then utilizing a scraper begin to peel the popcorn from the ceiling. You want to moisten the area well but not saturate it, especially if you are planning to paint the under drywall. Too much water will cause staining of the material underneath the popcorn.

Finally

As you can see, there really is not that much involved in removing popcorn ceiling material. The biggest problems you will encounter are asbestos and creating a mess. Most homeowners can do this job themselves, though many choose to leave it to the professionals. When you hire someone skilled in removing popcorn ceiling material the job is usually done more quickly than you can accomplish it on your own, of course this means going out the added expense so you must weigh the pros and cons of both options.

The Do's and Don'ts of Oak Flooring

Oak flooring can add such beauty and value to your home. However; it should not be done and put in too many rooms. One of the keys to any hard wood flooring is to make sure you match it to the right rooms for the most value and style. This article will look at a few key places where you should and should not add oak flooring.

The kitchen is one of those tricky places that many people are never sure if they should add oak flooring to or not. Based on experience from others who have installed oak flooring in their kitchen you will find that many would say to stay away from putting hard wood flooring in any kitchen setting.

One of the main reasons for leaving the kitchen off the wood flooring list is the fact that you are very likely to drop a knife, pans, and heavy cans. Such item can damage your floor in the course of a few years of use in the kitchen. Any of these objects can cause a large dent into wood flooring. Oak flooring is a little stronger and can handle some abuse, but it is still not recommended area for any wood floors.

If you really want to get the most use out of oak flooring you should concentrate on the entry way to your home. This is the number one best place to add a nice hard wood surface. You can then protect your oak flooring with a nice area rug.

The next best thing and most popular place to add hard wood oak flooring is the den or great room. It is best if this room is a smaller and has a nice warm feel. Perhaps adding a decorative pellet stove or gas burning fireplace to the room would give it the charm and feel you are after.

How to Turn Your Articles Into Lean, Mean, Lead-Generating Machines

If it's one thing I can not stand it's a hassle – something that takes too long or is too hard to put in place. I want results and I want it right now. I'm not some big corporation with years to build a brand. I want sales immediately, not years from now.

That's why writing short articles is so important to making article marketing work for you. May consumers are just like me and they want solutions to their challenges now, now now! That's a good thing. Because if you provide results, they'll buy from you just as fast.

So how long does the article have to be?

Short answer : 500 to 700 words.

Long answer : If you can not say it in under 700 words do you really have a strong command of the subject matter?

The bottom line is writing short, concise articles takes expert status. If you are not got it, baby, then work hard until you've learned the ropes.

3 Ways to Cut the Fat from Your Articles

Since I spent several years editing, proofreading and generally skewering the writing of other journalists I can give you a few points for cutting down long articles into ezine article. My advice: Put your articles on a word-count diet. Instead of counting carbs, count how many words it will take to get your point across. Here are three tips that can help:

Article Weight Loss Tip # 1: Split those articles up.

If you have an article that's 1,200 words long, make it into two 600-word articles.

Article Weight Loss Tip # 2: It's all about the themes, baby.

Stick with one theme for each article you write and just expound on it. Really work to dissect one theme or piece of advice to solve a key problem everyone in your industry is facing. For accountants right now a good theme would be balancing your current rush of clients with cultivating new business relationships, keeping the new leads coming in so that when tax season is over you still have a steady stream of income.

Article Weight Loss Tip # 3: Use subheads, bullet points and numbered lists to break up your content. Scan your article and pull out the pieces of advice you give through the piece. More often than not you're telling people here and there what they should do to solve a problem. Put that information all in one place and you'll be surprised at how much you'll cut from the article.

To keep your articles lean and mean you'll want to focus more on giving the advice to solving a problem more than anything else. Really bring home that fact that you've been where your teams are now and you know the way to "freedom" from those challenges they're facing now.

That's what makes you the expert – and the one who can command top dollar for your products and services.

The Stack and Tilt Golf Swing – A Review

One of the most hotly debated topics in golf circles for the last couple years is whether the Stack and Tilt golf swing will truly revolutionize the game of golf and golf instruction in general. Many proponents of the swing are almost cult like in their selling of the model, while more traditional instructors appear to be equally fanatical in their opposition.

The Stack and Tilt golf swing model first came onto the scene in 2005. It was developed by instructors Andy Plummer and Michael Bennett, who were very interested in working with tour players. Some of the tour players they initially started working with include Steve Elkington, Dean Wilson and Charlie Wi. Other players that have since adopted some or all of the model into their swings include JJ Henry, Troy Matteson and Tommy Armour III. Stars that employed the model but have since abandoned it include Aaron Baddeley and Mike Weir.

The Stack and Tilt golf swing is controversial in a few ways. First is the way it has been marketed as the swing that is “Remaking Golf.” A book and DVD set have been published. The book is highly critical of conventional instruction, but in a somewhat misleading manner. Some of the comparisons between the Stack and Tilt swing and the supposed conventional swing are misleading in that most instructors worth a grain of salt would clearly not teach swing positions similar to those compared to in the book.

The second way that the swing is controversial is that it does away with any type of weight shift in the golf swing from the front foot to the back foot in the back swing. Most weight is kept on the front foot throughout the swing to prevent swaying and to keep the upper body “centered”.” Many golfers have a habit of swaying too much in the back swing, and this idea is meant to counter that issue. A big sway in the back swing tends to lead to inconsistent ball striking among average golfers. On the other hand, some very successful golfers have had a bit of a sway in their swing, as taught by renowned instructor Jimmy Ballard. These players include Curtis Strange, Hal Sutton and Rocco Mediate.

Traditional golf instructors prefer to see a little weight shift to the rear leg in the back swing, particularly for longer shots, as this helps to add swing speed. Most competitors in long drive competitions clearly have a very large weight transfer to the back foot in the back swing. This helps create depth away from the ball, and more room to generate club head speed. However, timing this move is clearly more difficult.

In the Stack and Tilt model, there is a forward thrust in the hips that is offered as a different way to add swing speed. Old guard instructors are quick to point out that this thrust in the hips results in a “Reverse C” position, which puts pressure on the lower back. Anyone with lower back issues will have difficulty with this aspect of the swing.

One other aspect about the controversy surrounding the swing model is that many of the proponents suggest that the book is not meant to be followed to the letter. When describing certain feel positions in the swing, some of the positions illustrated in the book are exaggerated. Furthermore, many of the drills that are associated with the model that may be seen on the internet also exaggerate these positions. When confronted about these positions, particularly the lean of the spine toward the target in the back swing and the severe tilt in the spine away from the target in the follow through position, many proponents suggest that they are simply exaggerations, and only meant for drills. However, the book certainly does NOT make this suggestion.

Generally speaking, the Stack and Tilt model has some merit. For golfers who tend to be less skilled and have difficulty making solid contact, or tend to slice the ball, the Stack and Tilt swing can certainly be helpful. It forces the golfer to strike the ball with a descending blow, which results in the swing bottoming out past where the ball was sitting. This is a critical fundamental to solid ball striking. Most good golfers are already swinging the club in a similar way with their short irons, as there is very little weight shift involved. Furthermore, the model also encourages hitting the ball from a more inside out swing path, which will allow the golfer to learn how to hit a draw. This is done by swinging the arms more behind the body in the back swing while turning the shoulders on a steeper plane than with more conventional instruction.

On the other hand, there does appear to be an issue with ball flight when dealing with longer clubs. Maintaining most weight on the front foot and swinging the arms behind the body more does not allow for traditional shot making. From that position, the player has to come way over the top in the downswing with a big loop in order to a fade. Also, it is more difficult to get the ball high in the air using less lofted clubs with more weight on the front foot in the back swing. A steeper swing plane is then required to compensate and that can lead to other issues.

Overall, the debate regarding the merits of the Stack and Tilt swing versus more conventional golf instruction will likely rage on. Many proponents of the Stack and Tilt swing are now hoping for validation from Tiger Woods, who is now being taught by Sean Foley, a disciple of the swing model. Foley does not employ the entire model in his instruction, but he clearly does apply a good piece of it as evidenced by how Tiger appears to be swinging more recently.

A good instructor will learn to take the best of all models available and apply them in their instruction. The fact is that there is no one swing model that is perfect for every golfer, or for every shot. With that said, Plummer and Bennett have boldly put forth some new concepts and they are to be commended for that. The book is definitely recommended to golfers of all abilities seeking to educate themselves more about the golf swing.

The Brand New Lexus ES 350

The brand new 2007 Lexus ES 350 offers a sleek interior design and serves up an exterior to match. Standard 16 inch alloy wheels, with the option of 17 inch alloy or chrome wheels, add to the eye appeal of the new 2007 Lexus ES 350. A power moonroof is also an appealing feature, which is included in select models.

Safety is a large factor in today's automotive industry, which is why the 2007 Lexus ES 350 features HID Headlamps to help illuminate additional space of the road ahead and also helps to reduce the glare to oncoming traffic. Integrated foglamps, as the name implies, will help to improve visibility when the driver encounters fog. Auto-dimming mirrors and rain-sensing wipers are added safety features found on the 2007 Lexus ES 350.

As passengers climb into the new 2007 Lexus ES 350, they will find wood and leather trim with a sleek metallic-finish instrument panel. The driver, who has audio and display controls located directly on the steering wheel, will be able to find the perfect driving music. Speaking of which, the Mark Levison Premium Audio System is available for those who desire a powerful sound and an experience to match.

As an added feature, the 2007 Lexus ES 350 features a voice-activated DVD navigation system that incorporates satellite technology to help pinpoint the location and provide verbal directions to thousands of destinations across the United States and Canada. The driver and passengers may select from up to three routes, including the shortest, the quickest and an alternative. In addition, the navigation system can help to locate specific points of interest, such as nearby hotels, ATM machines and restaurants. The control for this system is conveniently located on the steering wheel and has the capacity to understand more than 100 commands.

Rounding out the popular features of the new 2007 Lexus ES 350 is dual climate control, power-adjustable seats, a rear mirror compass, power rear sunshade and HomeLink remote control, which can open entry gates, a garage door and even turn on the front -door lights.

The new 2007 Lexus ES 350 is now available at local Lexus dealerships.

How Do Retractable Awnings Handle Rain, Snow, and Storms?

One of the most common questions about retractable awnings is “Can it handle rain?” And, depending on the climate of the customer, the rain question is quickly followed by questions about whether retractable awnings can handle snow, strong winds, sleet and other atmospheric conditions.

The most accurate answer, is it depends. It depends mainly on the type and severity of the weather. The good news is that retractable awnings have options to respond to almost any weather condition.

Why Weather Affects Retractable Awnings

Anything outdoors is subject to some kind of exposure to weather; when looking at retractable awning options, part of the decision lies in determining what the options are for responding to weather.

Fixed awnings, canopies, and gazebos are fixed in place. The fabric is stretched taut across the frame and supported by stanchions. This inflexibility is what makes them vulnerable: sun damage wears out the fabric, the frames become weather-beaten and weak. The posts and frames offer limited support against wind, though it leaves the fabric more vulnerable to the weight of snow and rain.

Retractable awnings are fixed in place only at the base; their support is from tension springs in the arms of the retractable awning. High-quality frames are lightweight aluminum, which is strong and durable. However, because they aren’t supported externally, anything that puts heavy stress on the frame – like heavy weight or sharp movements – can potentially cause damage.

Retractable awnings have a significant advantage, though. Fixed canopies simply wear out after exposure to weather; retractable awnings can retract into a hood and be protected.

The Impact of Rain and Snow

The biggest danger of both rain and snow is the weight. Very light precipitation – drizzle, fog, a very light dusting of snow – doesn’t have enough heft to damage a high-quality retractable awning when it’s extended. But steady rainfall or snow can cause problems.

Rain has the biggest impact on the fabric. The rainwater pools on the fabric and, over time, causes the fabric to stretch, sag, and possibly tear. There are two ways to prevent damage from rain:

o Adjust the pitch of the arms, so that the angle of the retractable awning can be made steep enough to cause the water to run off.

o Use a rain sensor which, when the retractable awning has a motor, will automatically retract the retractable awning when it begins to rain.

Snow impacts retractable awnings differently than rain. Snow and ice tends to build up, layer on layer. Along with putting stress on the fabric, snow and ice can put enough weight on the retractable awning frame to bend and damage the lateral arms and the mounting (torsion/square) bar.

There isn’t a “snow sensor,” but having a motor with an indoor switch or radio remote control makes it easy and comfortable to retract the awning even in cold weather.

The Impact of Wind and Motion

Good quality retractable awnings are designed and tested to withstand winds up to 35mph, so almost any day is safe. The rule of thumb is this: if it’s too windy to sit outside, it’s too windy for the retractable awning to be extended. However, wind gusts can be a hidden danger. Sudden, sharp wind shears can cause immediate damage to retractable awnings, twisting and wrenching the frame.

There are sensors for both types of wind. A standard wind sensor measures the current wind speed and retracts the retractable awning when it gets above a certain user-defined point. A motion sensor can detect abrupt movements, something common as a storm kicks up. Both sensors recheck wind conditions, so the retractable awning can be automatically extended as soon as it is safe.

Design Makes a Difference

The shape of the retractable awning makes a difference in how well it handles the elements. Traditional awning styles are flatter, with a taut stretch of fabric between arms (called lateral-arm). Dome retractable awnings, however, are steep, rounded, and closer to the building (due to shorter projections), providing good run off and protection from precipitation as well as making them more resistant to winds. Dome retractable awnings are ideal for windows, doors, and walkways.

The key part is, assess your climate. Do you get heavy rains? Does snow linger or melt off? Is there a lot of wind or storms? With a motor and the appropriate sensors, retractable awnings can be safe in any climate.

8 Things You Do not Want to Cut from Bridge Saws

Bridge saws are the essential saws in manufacturing of products made of stone. This large saw can provide accurate cuts in slabs of material such as marble at a faster production rate than manual handsaws. When a company is considering the purchase of a bridge saw, it has several features to check out in order to choose the best bridge saw.

1. Beams and Bridge

Since the saw mechanism moves along the bridge and beams, these parts need to be strong and stable. The pressure created from cutting through heave stone will transfer to the bridge and beams. If the bridge and beams are not strong enough, they will give cause the cut to be off. Although cast iron beams can add up to 2 tons of weight, it is best to have a bridge saw that is more accurate and durable because it is built sturdier.

2. Oil Bath

A life saving feature for a bridge saw will be the oil bath. Stone cutting produces a great deal of dust and moisture that can be detrimental to the rollers and bearings of the machine. An oil bath will provide a self-maintaining lubricated track saving maintenance costs that come with bridge saws that have open, dry channels. This oil bath will also provide smoother tracking to increase the accuracy of cuts.

3. Controls

The modern programmable controls make running the bridge easier for the worker if it is user friendly. Look for a controller that allows manual, semi-automatic, and completely automatic programming. The operation of the controller should be simple enough for anyone to figure out fairly quickly. The best location for the controller is on a hanging pendant so that the operator does not have to walk around to set all the features. This type of controller will make production much more efficient.

4. Water System

When cutting stone, the water system protects the stone from cracking from overheated blades. The best water system for a bridge saw is an automatic valve that lets water out only when needed. This eliminates having to manually turn the water on or off from a distance that lets the water run longer than needed theby increasing your water usage. Another cost saving feature to consider is a closed water system that recycles the water through the machine and possibly through the dust booth.

5. Tilting Table

For limitless options of angles, a hydraulic table that can be positioned to any angle rather than preset angles is preferred. Not only does it make loading the slab easier, it also allows angles for any required cut.

6. Motor

Depending on the material you will be cutting, you can choose a smaller bridge saw with a 10 to 15 horsepower motor. This is sufficient for up to 3cm thick stone. However, a larger 20 horsepower motor is needed for thick materials such as granite or marble.

7. Blades

Ranging from 24 inches to 48 inches, the size of the blade will also depend on the material you intend to cut. The larger blades do allow faster cuts, but they will have to use the larger motor.

8. Other Accessories

A laser can increase accuracy of cuts by projecting a cut line across the material to help line up the bridge saw blade with the cutting line. A safety shut-off device is a must to help prevent accidental injuries to the operator. The warranty should also at least meet the industry standards, which are one year on mechanical parts and labor and 90 days on the electrical parts.

Consider all of these aspects before investing in a bridge saw. Use collections who are familiar with the industry to find references for reputable bridge saw manufacturers to consider.

CNC Routers

A CNC router is an acronym for a computer numerically controlled router. This is a machine used in the manufacturing industry, mainly for cutting through materials like wood, metals and plastics. A router is special because it is controlled by software as opposed to mechanically by a human.

This is of interest to the manufacturing industry because it produces better results. You might wonder why that is, surely a human could do better work than a computer? The reason a router can work better than a mechanically controlled router is because the software that controls it allows it to move in a closer more detailed and steadier manner than a human ever could. This does not mean that there is never human intervention when it comes to the router, but what it means is that the movements are extremely made by a computer, so are extremely accurate and detailed and the machine can move the tiniest amount if that is what is needed. This is why CNC routers improve manufacturing. They can also work continuously whereas a human would have to take a break and results would get lower in quality the longer they continue, due to fatigue.

A CNC router looks something like a table top work station that operates on its own. Parts that a CNC router has includes a cutting tool, a control panel, a worktop and, naturally, a router. There are many other parts that also make up this fascinating CNC machine.

CNC routers take a lot of skill to make. That is because the person or team that produces one needs skills from varying fields. That is they need to be able to design the machine to start with. Then they need to be able to source the parts and be able to assemble it from scratch in a safe manner. IT and programming skills also need to be thrown into the mix in order to create the software that the machine runs on. So, as you can see there really is a broad range of talents required to create a CNC router; it is certainly not an easy task.

If you need to use a router there are a few different ways of taking advantage of one. The best option is to go with a CNC machining provider. These firms have CNC routers that are ready to be used and can be programmed to match your productions needs. They are especially useful if you only need to manufacture a small amount, or a certain part. They also provide a team of experts with the broad range of talents mentioned above who can assist and advise you with your production.

There is also the option of building a CNC router. This will require a lot of skill but it is surely possible to build a basic one and it can be a fun task if CNC machinery is a hobby of yours.