Best Hotel Views in Paris

France’s city of love has some of the most luxurious hotels with fantastic views. Here are some of the best:

Radisson Blu

Situated in the 16th arrondissement of Paris, the Radisson Blu is close to the Trocadero and offers astounding views of the infamous Eiffel Tower. Relatively small for a chain hotel, the hotel has 38 uber cool rooms that combine comfort and style with a convenient crash pad. There is a wellness centre that has a swimming pool with a wave machine and also a hammam. Mediterranean cuisine is served in the Metropolitan restaurant whilst the piece de resistance can be found at the hotel Lounge bar, which has wonderful views of the city.

Hotel de Banville

Hotel de Banville’s location is slightly off the beaten track in terms of wandering Parisian streets yet it is still within walking distance of Arc de Triomphe and the Eiffel Tower. The art deco façade leads to some truly contemporary design inside the hotel from the quirky lobby to the uber chic rooms. Close to local amenities that offer a truly French experience, the hotel is ideal for those looking for a bit of quiet away from the touristy bustle. For the real wow factor, book into Amelie’s room and enjoy coffee and croissants on the terrace with the Eiffel tower, Sacre Coeur and Arc de Triomphe in the background. Parfait.

Plaza Athenee

This five-star luxury hotel in Paris is part of the Dorchester Hotel Collection. Beautiful flowers adorn ornate windows at the front of the hotel creating a warm and inviting façade. Close to the main shopping street of the Champs Elysees the Plaza Athenee has long been a favorite of the rich and famous and has well and having truly established itself over the years as a classic Parisian hotel. Dine in the hotel restaurant, Alain Ducasse Restaurant, at the Plaza Athenee where guests can dine on a delectable range of French cuisines.

Hotel Eiffel Seine

Nestled within the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, the Hotel Eiffel Seine couldn’t be any better located for first time visitors to Paris wanting to see the sights. A renovated Art Nouveau boutique style hotel. Monochrome themes sit beside flashes of red which add a warmth to the décor and comfortable rooms offer a much needed home from home. The hotel website offers great advice on exploring the neighbourhood by foot and the buffet breakfast should provide more than enough energy to do so.

Les Jardins d’Eiffel

Les Jardins d’Eiffel is a three-star hotel located close to the Invalids and Eiffel Tower. Most of the 80 rooms have balconies or terraces and stunning views of the infamous landmark. There is a quiet courtyard where guests can escape the frantic French streets and rest tired feet after hard days exploring the city. The buffet breakfast is complementary and can be served in the garden on days when the weather permits.

Copper Connectors

Copper is one of the most widely used metals with highest electrical conductivity and hence offers negligible resistance to the flow of electricity. It is incredibly durable so that it can be used to make connectors for a wide range of applications. Over other metallic connectors, it is highly preferred because of its softness and usability. High quality copper connectors are extruded from 100% electrolytic copper and copper strip can also be used to make such items. The level of performance depends on the heaviness so that the light weight ones are of better performance.

The copper connectors are used in electrical equipment, plumbing, power plants, house hold uses and many more. For optimal mechanical and electrical performance, it is made out of seamless ETP copper which has higher conductivity. Because of the anti-corrosive properties, it is always preferred over iron. The copper conductors are relatively soft and hence easier to use in all the applications. Since copper is non-toxic when compared to lead, it is a safer option. The connectors are specially designed to fit seamlessly with pipes in plumbing applications. According to the type of pipe used, there are different types of connectors available in the market.

The varieties of copper conductors are specific to the size and type of pipe selected. It mainly help to join pipes same size at each end or to achieve a change in pipe size. It can also be used to integrate pipes that have sizes in meters to those pipes that are of much bigger size to the screw threads located outside and is used mainly for iron pipes or sink taps. The most commonly used type of copper connectors includes straight connector, 90 degree bend connector and the ‘T’ shaped connector. There are many other varieties of connectors that are specifically designed for a purpose. The straight connectors help to connect two pipes end to end and are mainly used for plumbing. Whereas the 90 degree bended connectors have a characteristic bend so that two pipes can be connected over the bend. The ‘T’ shaped connectors have three joining phases so that three pipes can be joined easily in the shape of a ‘T’. For linking copper pipes, compression connectors and solder connectors are used. This is the major classification of copper connectors are based on the usage of connectors. The compression connectors are compressed on to the pipe and the nuts at the end are tightened onto the connector.

In the case of solder connectors, the gap between pipe and connector is filled with solder and is done by heating the joint first. The compression connectors can be reassembled and reused whereas the solder type of copper connectors cannot be reused. Another style of connector is the ‘Y’ connector which resembles the shape of ‘Y’. Fast model of copper connectors can be used for defense and aerospace applications. The connectors made of copper are ideal for use as it have a higher strength and is more efficient and economical.

RV Owner and Handyman

In the excitement of considering life as an RVer, it may not occur to some that the new lifestyle demands several non-recreational roles to be assumed. One of these roles is the handyman (ladies included). I point this out not to throw cold water on the exciting plans, but to prepare you for a certainty that comes standard with living in an RV, no matter how new the unit.

If fixing things around the house is your thing, then fixing things in an RV will come easy for you. On the other hand, if you rely on someone else when the simplest thing goes wrong, prepare yourself to become handy or take a handyman along on your RV adventure.

Think that you can dismiss this role by throwing money at it? Not so fast! Even if your budget can sustain paying for all preventive maintenance and repairs, services may not always be available. Imagine the difference it would make if you can do your own RV repair, versus having to spend a day or two of your week-long vacation at the shop.

RV REPAIRS VS. HOUSE REPAIRS

Even though an RV is considerably smaller than a modest house, it requires more frequent repairs. This is also true for brand new recreational vehicles, while new houses are mostly trouble-free in their first few years.

Some of the reasons for the increased repairs in an RV are the following:

  • Lighter construction throughout, due to weight and space constraints. Even the appliances are not made as well as the ones manufactured for fixed residences.
  • RV’s have more moving parts, some of them complex.
  • Vibration, bumping, and frame flexing caused by travel can break or loosen all sorts of components.
  • Less insulation means preventive measures must be taken in freezing weather. If preventive measures are ignored, repairs may be necessary.
  • Unlike houses that are frequently inspected during construction, RV’s have no such regulatory requirements. This leaves quality control up to each manufacturer, some of which choose to build poor quality products. This is why it is so important to inspect all RV’s before buying.

WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO BE A HANDYMAN?

From my own experience and from observing others on both sides of the handyman fence, I have come to the conclusion that the two requirements to become handy are: interest in solving a problem and not being intimidated by machinery. A close third is knowing your limits; knowing when a problem is beyond your skills and being willing to ask for professional help. Once you posses the above three attributes, the finer skills of being a handyman can be learned with time and practice.

As you are gaining experience, keep this old saying in mind: “Measure twice and cut once.” The key is not to be so afraid that you won’t try, but to be extra cautious when approaching an unfamiliar problem. Are you about to drill through a wall? Do all you can to examine both sides of the wall and items near it. If there is a chance that utilities may be running through that wall, do not proceed without consulting blue prints or an expert.

MAINTENANCE & REPAIR TASKS

Handyman skills are necessary for RV preventive maintenance and for making repairs. Below is a list of common tasks that a person possessing a good dose of common sense and average skills should be able to handle without specialized training:

Motor home engine or tow vehicle components:

  • Check and fill engine oil
  • Check and fill engine coolant
  • Check and fill other engine fluids
  • Check and adjust tire pressure
  • Lubricate under-chassis steering joints
  • Lubricate hitch moving components

Recreational vehicle components:

  • Repair or install cabinetry hinges, slides, and latches
  • Re-attach paneling with nails or adhesive
  • Fix external storage door hinges and support arms
  • Replace broken entryway handles
  • Dislodge and lubricate stubborn awning mechanisms
  • Replace bulbs
  • Find and replace blown fuses
  • Troubleshoot basic electrical problems with a multimeter
  • Test RV park A/C power voltage
  • Check and fill RV battery water
  • Test RV battery charge level
  • Replace common electric motors such as water pump and waste water valve motors
  • Drill holes in various locations to run wires, but having enough sense to know where not to drill in order to avoid damaging components beneath the surface.
  • Find source of water leak and caulk it
  • Repair leaky water lines and hoses that are easily accessible
  • Unclog slow or blocked sink and shower drains
  • Insulate exposed hoses and pipes to prevent freezing
  • Winterize RV before cold storage to prevent freezing
  • Repair broken sewage connectors and covers
  • Detect and find propane leaks
  • Clear clogged air conditioner drain passages
  • Recognize and correct common refrigerator problems. For example, my mostly-new Norcold fridge occasionally stops cooling until I reset the control board by unplugging the 12 volt DC wire in the back. According to a service guy, this is common for this brand.

HANDYMAN ESSENTIALS

Take it from me and the Boy Scouts–it is good to be prepared. I remember racing across Dallas a few minutes before 11:00 P.M., trying to make it to an AutoZone to buy fuses before they closed. The converter in our brand new RV blew a fuse, the batteries were mostly drained, and without spare fuses our new home just sat there in the dark. This incident would have turned into an uncomfortable night were it to happen during a vacation, far away from auto part stores.

To be prepared, take along a complete set of common tools such as hammers, screw drivers, etc. In addition, take all of the following tools, supplies, and spares that apply to your situation:

Tools:

  • Hydraulic jacks rated for the RV weight
  • Sturdy blocks for using under hydraulic jacks. Check your jacks before you need them because they may not extend high enough to lift the RV without the use of blocks. Concrete or other masonry blocks may not be strong enough to support the weight of heavy RV’s and tow trucks.
  • Torque wrench for tightening the wheel lug nuts
  • ¼” and ½” socket drivers with extensions and sockets to fit all fasteners you might remove. The largest socket I needed was a 2″ for the wheel lug nuts to use with the torque wrench.
  • 15″ adjustable wrench with a 2.5″ jaw opening
  • Caulk gun
  • Grease gun or can of grease. I found storing the grease gun too messy and opted for the can instead.
  • Full set of Allen wrenches
  • Full set of screwdriver tips, including square and star shapes
  • Small wood and metal hand saws
  • Flexible magnet to retrieve fallen screws
  • Small mirror to look into tight spaces
  • Small shovel in case you get stuck in snow or mud
  • Small wood and metal files for rounding sharp corners
  • Multimeter with a set of alligator clip wires
  • Battery hydrometer for accurately testing battery charge
  •   Soldering   iron  and  solder  for re-attaching broken wires
  • Flash light with fresh batteries
  • Electric drill and complete drill bit set
  • Quality tire pressure gauge with long hose, rated for 100 psi or higher
  • Adjustable gripping pliers with jaws wide enough to clamp onto water hose connector. Handy when it is time to remove an over-tightened water hose.

Spares:

  • At least a couple of each fuse size found in your RV and tow vehicle. More of the common sizes.
  • Light bulbs
  • Fresh water hose and adapter to connect two hoses for longer reach
  • Sewer hose and adapter to connect two hoses for longer reach
  • Sewer pipe screw-on cap because it breaks easily in cold weather
  • Spare wheel for motor home, trailer, and tow vehicle
  • Tire valve cores and removal tool
  • Electrical extension cords designed for outdoor use

Maintenance & repair supplies:

  • Collection of screws and nails, the types used in your RV
  • Duct tape, both the permanent and temporary types. Temporary duct tape comes in handy to hold things like paneling and trim in place while the adhesive dries.
  • Clear duct tape for temporary repair of broken signal lights, torn awning canvas, etc.
  • Liquid Nails adhesive for re-attaching sagging ceilings and almost anything else
  • Marine adhesive for waterproof repairs
  • Caulk designed for the roof and exterior walls of your specific RV
  • General use waterproof caulk for the interior
  • WD-40 for lubrication and for removing tough petroleum-based stains
  • Propane leak tester solution in spray bottle
  • Wire nuts for connecting electrical wires
  • Pipe insulation

KNOW YOUR LIMITS

Being handy around the RV will save you time, money, and the added aggravation of spending part of your vacation in a shop. At the same time be smart about what you are capable and willing to take on. One time I removed and completely disassembled a wheel hub from my trailer to track down a squeaky noise; this has taught me that wheel hubs are too complex for my skills and messy too.

It is never fun when something goes wrong with the RV, but you will get a great deal of satisfaction being able to repair common problems.

Hip Dysplasia

Canine hip dysplasia is a complicated and serious problem for dogs. It results in minor to severe crippling of the animal due to excessive looseness between the ball and   socket  joints in the hips. The bone forming the  socket  apparently fails to develop sufficiently to form a good joint. Also the ball part of the joint may be poorly formed, resulting in a joint that doesn’t work properly.

Studies of hip dysplasia indicate that the problem often occurs in large breeds more often and more seriously than in smaller breeds. However, there is probably some incidence of hip dysplasia in nearly all breeds.

Hip dysplasia is thought to have a genetic component. It also, is believed to have a nutritional cause, which may be aggravated by mistaken ideas of what is considered good feeding practices. The genetic part cannot be overcome entirely by nutrition treatment, but poor nutrition can further complicate matters. Good balanced feeds that help reduce the effects of the genetic weakness may cover up the genetic problem so that dogs are bred that will retain this tendency. Good breeders are aware of this situation and are doing their best to select for breeding only those animals, which do not exhibit hip dysplasia regardless of the diets they have been fed.

Canine hip dysplasia (CHD) is a complicated and serious problem for dogs. It results in minor to severe crippling of the animal due to excessive looseness between the ball and  socket  joints in the hips. The bone forming the  socket  apparently fails to develop sufficiently to form a good joint. Also the ball part of the joint may be poorly formed, resulting in a joint that doesn’t work properly.

Studies of hip dysplasia indicate that the problem occurs in large breeds more often and more seriously than in smaller breeds. However, there is probably some incidence of hip dysplasia in nearly all breeds.

Hip dysplasia is thought to have a genetic component. It also, is believed to have a nutritional cause, which may be aggravated by mistaken ideas of what is considered good feeding practices. The genetic part cannot be overcome entirely by nutrition treatment, but poor nutrition can further complicate matters. Good, balanced feeds that help reduce the effects of the genetic weakness may cover up the genetic problem so that dogs are bred that may retain this tendency. Good breeders are aware of this situation and are doing their best to select for breeding only those animals that do not exhibit hip dysplasia regardless of the diets they have been fed. A requirement of the Small Munsterlander Club’s breed council is a prerequisite that a dog will not be allowed to breed if it exhibits a tendency to hip dysplasia.

The dog foods that are available today for puppies all contain the good bone building nutrients, calcium, phosphorous, vitamins and trace elements that pups need.

Over-consumption of puppy food and rapid growth of large breeds of dogs has been found by researchers at Cornell University to increase the severity of hip dysplasia. The pups should not put on more weight than their skeletal development is ready for. This can aggravate the problem of a poorly developed joint. If you are raising puppies, it is better to keep them a bit hungry rather than letting them eat too much. Letting a pup grow a bit more slowly won’t hurt anything and it may help your dog enjoy a better, longer life.

A dog needs to be X-rayed to ensure that it doesn’t have canine hip dysplasia (CHD). Years ago there was only one organization that would qualify a dog’s lack of evidence for hip dysplasia. It was the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, Inc. (OFA). OFA required that the X-rays not be taken earlier than two years of age for certification. Veterinarians would perform the X-ray examination and mail the result to OFA to certify the dog employing the expertise of 3 trained veterinary radiologists. When an agreement was found among the radiologists subjectively reviewing the photos, a certificate would be issued with an excellent, good or fair rating for the hips if it were determined that hip dysplasia was not evident.

Since 1993 another method has gained prominence. It is the PennHIP examination and certification, which can be carried out with greater accuracy. PennHIP exams can be used for dogs as young as 6 months of age. Dr. Gail Smith at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine conceived the PennHIP method in 1983. After about ten years of laboratory tests PennHIP was developed as a cooperative scientific initiative to serve as a multi-center clinical trial of the new hip dysplasia diagnostic technology. The PennHIP certification is a quantitative method that relies on actual measurement of the hip joints’ distraction index (DI) as a determination of the joint’s laxity. The interpretation of laxity is breed dependent and the values are therefore compared to other dogs of the same breed to determine where in the distribution a particular dog falls. The lower the distraction index, the lower the chances of the dog developing arthritis. This is often called degenerative joint disease (DJD) because of excessive wear on the hips’ cartilage. The idea behind this method is to keep breeding on dogs with low distraction numbers to ensure that hip dysplasia does not show up in your breeding. Several studies have shown that dogs with tighter hips are less likely to develop CHD. To learn more about the two methods please check out http://www.offa.org and http://www.PennHIP.org.

Microsoft Outlook Not Opening

“Microsoft Outlook has encountered a problem and needs to close. We are sorry for the inconvenience”. This error message may appear when you try to open the Microsoft Outlook program. Also, Microsoft Outlook may refuse to open up without showing an error message or with a different one. There are a number of reasons that may prevent the program from opening. Let’s look in to the below mentioned free Microsoft Outlook support guide. It will help you troubleshoot such Microsoft Outlook problems and understand

Instructions:

Make sure the Outlook program is not running in the background. Close any error message that is appearing on your screen. If MSN or Windows Messenger is running, close it too. When done, click the Start button and click Search. Type ‘outcmd.dat’ (without quotes) in the All or part of the file name box, select C: drive as the directory to look in to from the drop-down menu under the Look in box, and hit the Search button to begin the search. Windows 7 and Vista users can use the Start Search menu to type and search for the ‘outcmd.dat’ file.

When finished, you will see the outcmd.dat file. Right-click the file and select Rename. Give a different name to file (any name of your choice). Exit the Search Results window. Now click the Microsoft Outlook icon and open it. It should open up fine. If the email program still does not open, go back looking for the outcmd.dat file in the Search Results window. Right-click the file and select Delete. If prompted, confirm the action by clicking the Yes button. Close the window and reopen Outlook. It should open fine.

OUTCMD.DAT is a small file that stores the custom changes you make to your Outlook toolbar buttons. Since malware or virus infections often target toolbars to slip into your computer, they add toolbars or add-ins to this file, making it corrupted. Also, a temporary glitch can cause this file to become corrupted. If Outlook starts working fine after renaming the file, you can customize your Outlook toolbar buttons again. Otherwise, delete the file and then re-customize your toolbar buttons.

If you are using Windows 7 with the Outlook 2010 version and receive “Cannot start Microsoft Outlook. Unable to open the Outlook window. The set folders could not be opened. The server is not available. Contact your administrator if this condition persists”, check this method. Click the Startbutton and open Command Prompt. If you do not see Command Promptanywhere in programs, type ‘command’ (without quotes) in the Start Searchtype, and look in the search results. Click to open Command Prompt.

Type ‘C:Program FilesMicrosoft OfficeOffice 14Outlook.exe” /resetnavpane’ (without quotes and as is) and hit the Enter key. The command assumes that your Office program resides in Programs Files in the C: drive. If it resides in a different location, change the path accordingly. Exit the Command Prompt window. Open Outlook and check back, it should work fine. The command removes and recreates the navigation panel for your Outlook profile. If the problem persists, move on to the next step.

Disable the add-ins that you no longer use and will never use in the future. Since Outlook is not opening in the normal mode, restart in Safe Mode. To do so, click the Start button and go to Run. Type ‘outlook.exe /safe’ (without quotes and as is) and hit the Enter key. When in Outlook, click the Tools tab, and select Trust Center. Click Add-ins in the left hand panel of Trust Center. Look at the bottom of the window beside Manage.

If COM Add-ins is not selected beside Manage, click the drop-down menu and select it. Hit the GO button to get in the COM Add-ins window. Look for the unnecessary add-in, click to uncheck the box beside it, and then hit the OK button. If you want to remove an add-in, just select it, and hit the Remove button. The add-in will be removed. Exit Trust Center, close Outlook and reopen it. It will open up fine in the normal mode.

Additional Tips:

If none of the above mentioned methods works, open Outlook in Safe Mode and delete your existing email profile. Create a new one, close and reopen Outlook normally. In case Outlook still does not open, contact a Microsoft Outlook support service.

How to Break 80

There are many psychological barriers in sports. For example, many people thought the 4 minute mile would never be broken. For many golfers the big psychological wall to crash through is How to Break 80.

It cannot be overstated how big a difference there is between shooting 80 and 79. It’s only one stroke but when you are trying to break 80 for the first time that one stroke is the size of the Pacific Ocean. It’s just not the same as the difference between 85 and 84. No one grinds or gets butterflies over that putt on the last hole. So how do you break 80?

Research

First, make sure you know what it takes to break 80 in terms of golf statistics. To be very simple on a par 72 course you need to have 11 pars and 7 bogeys. So here’s how that breaks out statistically speaking. You will likely hit 5-6 greens in regulation. You will need to make par or better on those holes. That means there are 12-13 holes where you miss the green in regulation. You will need to get up and down on 5 or six of those which means 5 or 6 one putt greens with no 3 putt greens. That means you are going have a total of 30-31 total putts at most. We haven’t talked about driving but to hit 5-6 greens you will need to be in play on at least 7-9 holes off the tee.

So to summarize here are the stats to help you break 80:

Fairways Hit- 7-9

Greens in Regulation- 5-6

Putts- 30-31

Blow up Holes/Others- 0

It is important to understand what it takes so you can move on to the next phase of breaking 80.

Your Game Analysis

You need to chart your next 5-10 rounds of golf and be brutally honest. It’s very easy to trick yourself into thinking you are better in a particular area of the game than you really are. So record every shot.

For driving record:

How many fairways you actually hit

How many times did you leave yourself no shot or a risky shot to the green?

How many times did you cost yourself penalty strokes

For irons record:

How many greens hit

How many miss short

How many miss long

How many miss right

How many miss left

Around the green record:

How many ups and downs

How many sand saves

How many chips result in a tap in?

How many missed greens

How many times you get down in 3 or 4

On the green:

How many one putts

How many three putts

There are software programs and scorecards out there that are designed for this and even more detailed tracking. They can be a great aid because they force you to record your actual shots.

You should analyze this data relative to the stats provided above to see where your game needs work to break 80. Start with the green stats and work back to the tee. Remember you need to be around 30 putts. If you are averaging 30 putts or better you can move on. If not, you need to start working on your putting. You may start to incorporate your stats from around the green. I know many people who blame their putting but actually they don’t chip very well around the green. They never give themselves a tap in and they always leave a 10-12 foot putt. Even the pros only make 50% of those. So you have to chip closer than that once in a while to get your number of putts down and ultimately break 80.

From there move back down the fairway to your approach shots. Do you really hit enough greens in regulation to break 80? If not, where are your shots missing. Almost all amateur golfers have the tendency to leave every approach shot short. They pick the club they have to hit perfectly to get to the hole. Trust me on this; the pros don’t play this way. The typically pick a club that will get them there comfortably. Try picking one more club than you usually play from a certain yardage. You don’t have to tell anyone what club you hit. Remember after the round the only thing anyone wants to know is what you shot? Also, remember on approach shots there is always a good place to miss the green. If you do miss the green, playing to the safe side will make your chip shot easier which means fewer putts which means you guessed it, you break 80!

Last but not least comes driving. It’s easy to get caught up in the macho aspects of driving. It’s too bad that it’s called driving. You should probably think of it as placing the ball instead of driving the ball. Off the tee all you want to do is place the ball somewhere where you can have a reasonable shot to the green. It doesn’t have to be your longest drive ever, but the easiest way to break 80 is to put the ball in play on every hole. This really takes stress off of the rest of your game. Think about it, if you have a good shot at the green after your drive on every hole you are going to hit more greens. You also have eliminated the blow up hole because those tend to come from a wildly errant tee shot.

Psychology

Focus on scoring. That is the part of the game you want to grind on. As stated above, try and take pressure off of the first part of the hole and really focus as you get closer to the hole. In other words, grind it out around the greens and take it easy from tee to green. All you have to do is get there in reasonable fashion.

Finally, not to be Zen about it but let go. Don’t try to hard. It really ties up your full swing. Relax and have fun. Focus on the positive.

In hindsight this article should be called how to shoot in the 70’s not how to break 80. How to break 80 is the negative way to express the score you’re trying to get. So stop worrying about how to break 80 and start shooting in the 70s.

Things You Must Consider Before Buying LED Lights

It is a well known fact that LED lights are the great medium for interior and exterior decorations. They enhance the looks and beauty of the placed where they are installed. Apart from that, they also have various benefits. One of the main benefits is that they save lots of energy as these lights are capable of emitting most of the energy as heat. You should be aware of the fact that they are more durable than other lights available in the market.

You might be visiting various LED shops for getting these lights. However, there are some important points to be considered before making any selection. First of all, you must choose the lights depending upon the area which you need these lights to be installed. Depending upon this factor, you can decide which one you want to go for. Supposedly, you are going to buy lights for staircase, you must choose round shaped lights which can be installed halfway in the stairs. It will increase the beauty and will be very beneficial.

In the garden, you can install various colored and different shapes of light. This will enhance the look of your garden and will make it very appealing. In you living rooms, you can get blue-colored light and this will create very peaceful environment in the room. Now, once you have decided the place where you will install these lights, you will also need to check the wattage of the bulb. It is highly recommended to ask the retailer to try the LED lights for you so that you can decide how much light is required.

Before installing any kind of lights in your home, it is required that you must get the right kind of connections so that you are able to get the better light. There are lots of designs and options available in the market. Some of them include LED stripes and you can use them for decorating your interior as it can be used in back and furniture   illumination .

Everyone is aware of the fact that LED lights have replaced the traditional lights and this is one of the big reasons why even policemen, emergency medical services and other professional make use of LED bars. They are considered to be the best emergency vehicle lights. Internet is the great source of finding any information. You must search on the internet about these lights so that you can come to know about their designs and price range.

Emergency Car Lighting

Emergency car  lighting  has been an industry ever since the first emergency car left the station. We are used to them and we see them every day, however how much do we actually know about emergency car  lighting ? I think not much. This is why in this article, I am going to tell you about the main types of emergency car light that have been used and that are being used today, to help keep the streets free, when emergency vehicles role down the road at full speed to reach their priority missions.

First of all, emergency car  lighting  refers only to the colors red and blue. The color yellow does not impose any special measures and simply lets you know that something is up ahead and you should slow down and also be careful. The red and blue light however, will require you to slow down and pull over completely, or sometimes simply get out of the way gently. The concept of emergency car  lighting  took flight in the 1930’s when cars started to increase in numbers on the streets and police cars and fire trucks had problems passing through, depending only on a strong horn, a good siren and some foul language directed at those that did not move.

The first type of light used for emergency purposes was the rotation light. A very simple and base design, it uses only one light bulb which is surrounded by a rotating mirror, that gives the feeling of a rotation beam of light. Used well until the 1980’s this is probably one of the methods that was used for the longest periods of time for emergency purposes.

The type of  lighting  used until a few years ago is linked to the famous red strobe light used in most Hollywood pictures. Emergency strobe lights have been used by police cars until only 3 or 4 years ago and have a very solid design also. They involve xenon flash lamps similar to the ones used in photography and although they flash for only a brief period of time of under half of a second, the intensity of the beam is very strong and easily detected by the naked eye.

The latest type of  lighting  technology is connected to LED lights. The new generation of light offers great reliability, as they have great lifespan, they are much lighter than the old  lighting  installations, so they are easier to mount, and they simply look a lot better helping the youth of today to form a better image regarding emergency vehicles.

Air Barriers

Temperature differential is the driving force behind moisture condensation problems within the building. It can be controlled relatively well by the use of proper equipment. The temperature outside can’t be controlled but the inside one can be in order to avoid pressure differences.

The larger the temperature difference, the more drive across a wall. Hence, it becomes worse in the cold winters. Temperature drives air and vapor leakage as well as basic heat loss through the building envelope.

The direction of the wind plays an important role. Depending on the wind direction, a high or low pressure area is created, pushing or pulling moisture through the building envelope. On the windward side it is positive and on the other side there is the negative impact. There are several effects that can be seen on the walls based on the wind direction that they face.

What can be the sources of moisture inside a home?

There are several sources of moisture within a home. These include things like shower, dishwashers, and the occupants. As a matter of fact approximately 60 % of all moisture produced with a home come from the occupants themselves.

Moisture moves through the envelope in 3 ways and makes its way through the building whether it is in or out.

Diffuse flow migrates through an assembly and once it is cold it turns to water and then to ice. This settling of the water can be problematic. To reduce or eliminate this a suitable material as to be introduced into the wall assembly. Every material has different permeance and this determines the amount of moisture that the material allows to pass through.

The other is through channels and channel flow. This is when moisture travels through and within a wall assembly via air spaces and gaps between materials or components of a wall assembly.

The third one is orifice flow. These includes things like services penetrations, windows, doors and structural elements.

The principal function of the air barrier is to prevent both the infiltration of outdoor air into a building and the exfiltration of indoor air to the outside. This applies whether the air is humid or dry. Air leakage can cause problems with the deposition of moisture in the walls, the loss of energy and infiltration of rain.

An air barrier is different than a vapor barrier in several ways. Firstly, air barrier goes on to stop the air movement through the cracks in the wall compared to vapor barrier which stops the diffusing through the wall.

Air Barrier is a system unlike vapor barrier which is usually a product like a poly film. Also, air barrier is continuous and all joints need to be completely sealed.

Air barriers must also be more durable.

The three important criteria used for the air barrier design are

  • Continuity
  • Impermeability
  • Durability

Continuity:

Continuity means more than being without holes. Because the component that performs the role of the air barrier changes from the wall to the window to the roof, continuity means that all these assemblies must be connected together so as to ensure that there is no break in the air tightness of the envelope.

Air Impermeability

A major requirement of an air barrier is that it offers a high resistance to air flow but not to water vapour. This a very important. The reason being is that a material that a high resistance to water vapour would not let out any moisture trapped within the wall cavity if it was installed on the outside of the wall.

A perfect example of this is plywood or OSD. These products although not used as air barriers doe act as air barriers on the outside of a building. But the problem becomes that they also act as vapour barriers. This means they trap moisture within the wall assembly. As such most building codes now require that plywood and OSD be installed with gaps at their joints to allow the moisture to escape to the exterior.

While absolute air impermeability may not be achieved, materials such as glass, sheet metal, gypsum board, cast-in-place concrete and a properly supported polyethylene sheet offer a much higher resistance to air flow than do more porous materials such as concrete blocks, fiber board sheathing, and expanded polystyrene insulation. A second major consideration is that individual panels be joined into an airtight assembly. The joints between gypsum boards can be taped quickly and effectively, sheet metal panels can be lapped with tape, precast panels can be sealed with rope and sealants.

Durability

The air tightness system must outlast the building itself. For this to happen, the materials used must have a proven track record or the material should be positioned in such a way that it is accessible for inspection and maintenance.

Durability is not an intrinsic property of a material but depends largely on how a material reacts to a specific environment such as moisture, temperature, ultra-violet radiation, and to the presence of other materials (incompatibility).

Why Buy a Fireproof Safe?

Fire accidents rank number one when it comes to statistics on loss of property and documents in organizations. Every year, organizations across the world lose billions of dollars’ worth of property to fire accidents, most of which turns out to be documents and other physical objects of value. To cut down on or even prevent this loss of property, businesses are now turning to fire resistant safes to store valuable documents and other artifacts. Fireproof safes and file cabinets are among the most sought after office storage systems today.

Fire resistant safes and file cabinets are made of special materials that are highly resistant to fire, high temperatures and the physical effects of the fire, while at the same time, protecting their contents. Fire resistant safes are usually classified into different categories or classes based on how long they can last in a fire at a certain temperature. There are models that can range anywhere from half an hour to four hours. One drawback of fire resistant safes is that they are not water resistant. If a fire resistant safe is sprayed with water in the process of putting out a fire, its contents are sure to get wet. It is therefore advisable to place the contents of fireproof safes inside plastic bags.

Fireproof safes are put through rigorous fire resistance tests to ensure that their contents are fully protected from the effects of the fire. Independent testing firms and other laboratories generally put safes manufactured by different companies through standard tests to ensure that the safes meet certain norms and standards. Fireproof safes are quite expensive, and come with the added cost of greater vulnerability to physical attack, thereby actually making them less safe compared to other safes when it comes to the risk of theft, robbery or vandalism.

Removing Wallpaper Borders

The method of  Wallpaper  border removal depends on what the Border was applied on, like painted wall or not, was it applied over  wallpaper , and what was used to hang the  wallpaper  border. If it’s on  wallpaper , it can be easily peeled off. However, if it’s on a painted wall, dampening the lower layer with warm water, and letting it soak for a while considerably make the job easier.

You can use any commercial chemical  wallpaper  remover if the border is a genuine  Wallpaper  border and is reasonably new. The remover will reactivate the adhesive and let you scrape off the paper with a scraping tool. However the chemical usually won’t permeate if the  wallpaper  border has a vinyl outer covering. Use a perforation tool to break the surface so the moisture can reach the adhesive.

Peel the  wallpaper  border with soft metal or plastic scraper, and not tools like strong metal scrapers or filling knives, which may result in unwanted scratches on the wall. If the  Wallpaper  border material is fibrous, like paper, you can use a garden sprayer to drench it with the chemical remover, and then remove the remaining residue. Use a  wallpaper  steamer to reactivate the paste. You can then easily scrape of the paper.

You can also use steam removal method for  Wallpaper  borders. First, steam the surface of the wall. Start from the bottom to the topmost part, one section at a time. If the  wallpaper  border uses extremely strong adhesive, you may need to steam each strip twice or thrice before removing. Use a broad knife to scrape a strip of  wallpaper  off the wall, working from the bottom up. And while the adhesive is still warm, scrape each strip of paper. Using warm water and sponge, remove remaining adhesive residue.

GFCI Receptacles For House Exterior, Garage & Accessory Buildings

The 2008 NEC did not change house exterior GFCI receptacles requirement since the previous edition.

GFCI – (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter)

  • All outdoor house receptacles must be GFCI protected.

There is one exception from this requirement:

If you have electrical outlets that are not readily accessible (you can’t reach them standing on the ground without using ladders, or any other equipment) and they are supplied by a branch circuit dedicated for snow / ice melting equipment (there’s nothing else on this circuit), GFCI protection is not required.

However, that snow / ice melting equipment must be permanently attached; you should not use those not GFCI protected receptacles for something that would be removed after the winter (i.e. holiday decorations).

There is also an exception within the exception above which applies to mineral-insulated, metal-sheathed cable embedded in a   noncombustible  (it doesn’t burn) material that would need to be GFCI protected. I don’t think you’re going to deal with this thing in your house.

  • If you have receptacles installed in the house soffits, which are not readily accessible, powered by a dedicated branch circuit for seasonal decorations – they have to be GFCI protected.

Exceptions for the garage GFCI receptacles and GFCI’s in accessory buildings

They have been removed by the newest 2008 NEC (National Electrical Code). The new rules apply to the structures that have a floor located at or below grade level, are not intended for use as habitable rooms and limited to storage areas, work areas, and areas of similar use.

There’s no more GFCI unprotected receptacles permitted in any of those areas. If you are planning to put one in your barn or storage shed, it must be a GFCI type receptacle or an outlet protected by a GFCI breaker.

  • Receptacles that are not readily accessible (i.e. garage ceiling outlet, or one serving garage door opener) now require GFCI protection. I personally have nothing against it, but resetting that tripped garage GFCI outlet on a very high ceiling will cost you a few hundred $$$… for the ladder that is. So, it would probably make sense to install a regular outlet on the ceiling and a GFCI receptacle protecting it in a readily accessible area.

Readily Accessible (2008 NEC definition) – Capable of being reached quickly for operation, renewal, or inspections without requiring those to whom ready access is requisite to climb over or remove obstacles or to resort to portable ladders, and so forth.

  • A single or duplex receptacle on a dedicated branch circuit that was previously identified for a certain cord-and-plug connected appliance, such as a refrigerator or freezer – it now has to be GFCI protected.

The new code actually made it simpler – no more guessing. On the other hand…, is it a good idea to have a freezer / refrigerator plugged into a GFCI receptacle?

Drum Tables – Classic Elegance

Drum tables, just as the name implies, are tables that also serve as a drumming instrument. Inspired by Native American culture traditions, these styles of furniture are gradually gaining popularity in our modern society. The instrument and table piece of furniture derived its concept from Native American slaves who hundreds of years ago, attempted to hide their handmade instruments by disguising them as everyday useful tools and items, as they were not permitted to have these recreational outlets according to their owners. While one might initially picture this Native American, western lodge type style as being particular to the Southwestern region of the United States, people all over the world are starting to implement this warm Drum table design into their homes.

Drum tables are very versatile in style and cut and because of this fact, can fit comfortably in virtually any room of your house depending on the model selected. Drum tables can be placed against the wall in a living room; they can serve as a type of mantel in a bedroom and even in the foyer as a familiar way to greet your guests. The table seems to work best, though, if given its own space and attention in the room of which it is located. These tables work very well as the focal point of an area. With many other capabilities to dress the tables up, as well, you can really go all out with the western style.

When choosing a table of this style, you have many options. Tables vary in height and as for shape, most are either a tall cylindrical, upright barrel type of structure or an elongated piece that backs flat up against a wall, similar but very different from an armoire. Other tables, such as the ones more pub-style in design, that is taller with a smaller circular surface area, can be used as ideal end tables, coffee tables or as that one of a kind accessory for your personal recreation room. Though many furniture companies have found a way to mass produce these items, you will likely find a good amount of retailers who offer one of kind selections. Most of the furniture you will come across will be hand carved to distinct perfection, and sometimes painted with ink, to give the piece a great authentic Native American look.

Tables of this nature can be either used for simple decoration purposes or as a convenient place of storage. While it certainly wouldn’t hurt to use the piece in a similar fashion as you might use for instance, the top of a dresser or armoire, for holding loose change and random everyday pocket items like your keys. But quite often to utilize these tables for something trivial like that undermines their importance and underrates the craft and skill that was put into making each individual piece of furniture. The best way to appreciate a piece like this is to make it the centerpiece of a room where the only items placed within or on top of it are designed to aid in its decoration and traditional elegance.

High Gloss Laminate Flooring

There are a lot of great laminate  flooring  finishes that you can select from. If you are trying for a rustic look in your home, or a country look, then you will probably want to select a low gloss finish. If you want a rich and elegant look to your  flooring  then you will probably want to select a high gloss finish.

While high gloss finishes are one characteristic that is often associated with a high quality  flooring  product, it is not the only characteristic that you should look for. In addition to having a beautiful finish, you will also want to look for a laminate floor plank that is at least 7mm. You will also want to look for planks that are backed with a good warranty.

Once you have determined what high gloss finish you are interested in your next step will be to find a brand that offers a plank that meets all of your selection criteria. Next you will need to find an online merchant that offers you the plank brand and style that you want to buy. Finally you will need to learn about how to order your  flooring .

If you are going to buy online you will need to know how much laminate  flooring  you will need, as well as what underlayment your climate requires. If you live in a humid climate, or if you will be installing your high quality laminate wood floors in your basement, then you will want to install a moisture barrier in addition to the typical underlayment. To make sure that you buy enough underlayment and laminate  flooring  planks make sure that you add 10% to both your plank order and your underlayment order.

Pump New Life into Miss America

“The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results”. – Albert Einstein

Clearly, The Miss American Pageant is guilty of doing the same thing repeatedly to a degree broaching the ridiculous. How many years has this little event targeted the same audience using the same approach? To what end? Realizing lower ratings and now jeopardizing the pageant’s existence all together.

No, I’m not expert on beauty pageants. However, as a businessman I know that if my company is losing market-share that I have to go to the source to find out what we’re doing wrong. That source is ALWAYS the customer. I’ve learned that almost any issue causing losses can be solved with a little research. Therefore, when asked if the pageant can be saved, I answer with a resounding YES.

Let’s look at why is the Miss American Pageant is failing.

We don’t know anything about the young women competing.

Give us their history; let us fall in love with them. Many of these girls have interesting stories, some come from deprived backgrounds, some have overcome handicaps–give us full disclosure, we want to know why winning is so important to them.

Give us time to talk about the pageant.

Rather than one big night, why not spread the pageant over a television season? Give us time to talk about it around the water cooler at work. Let us use the pageant as dinner conversation. You are depriving us of one of our most cherished rights as Americans by having the pageant as a one shot deal–gossip.

Let us see the talent portion of the pageant.

American Idol has proven that we love to see young talent. Let us see the bad along with the good.

Let us have a voice.

With current internet/phone technology, it is possible to allow Americans to vote for Miss American. We love to participate.

In short, the Miss American pageant is a reality show. Play the drama just as the successful reality shows do today and you’ll have a hit on your hands that will have advertising execs clamoring to buy ad-space and network execs bidding to get the show on their affiliates.

It’s as easy as that!