The Advantages of Laminate Flooring

Laminate flooring is less expensive than other types of flooring and it can actually make a room look very appealing. In some cases it is almost indistinguishable from real wood floors. There are many advantages to choosing laminate flooring over other options. Here are some of the reasons why it might be the best option for you.

Ease of Installation:

Laminate flooring is probably the easiest type of flooring to install. Some of the highest quality laminate offers an installation process that does not require the use of glue. To install the pieces, they just need to be cut to fit the area. They are then clicked together and put into place. Afterward, they are ready for use. They will withstand walking and furniture placement without any issues. A flooring professional can install your new laminate in just a couple days.

Low Cost:

Laminate is well known for being inexpensive. It is a very economical choice, especially when you take into consideration the prices of the other types of flooring that are available. Not only are the other options more expensive to install, they require costly maintenance. If you were to install hardwood flooring, for example, it will need to be refinished about four or five times over a lifetime. Carpet and vinyl will require quite a bit of maintenance as well. They need to be torn out and redone at least twice, sometimes more if they see more use. Laminate, in contrast, very rarely needs to be replaced at all.


Hardwood, vinyl, and carpet can’t hold up to the strength of a laminate floor. One of the layers in laminate is included specifically to prevent wear as time passes. Laminate flooring is much less likely to scratch over time than the alternatives. One small scratch may not look like much, but over time scratches cause the appearance of a floor to dull. Scratches can result not just from pet claws or dropped knives, but from dirt or sand caught in people’s shoes. This is not the case with laminate. It will look shiny and in perfect condition for several years.


Laminate floors will almost never stain. They also stand up to the elements. Moisture is less likely to cause them to warp, and they are unlikely to fade with time. To back up these statements, most manufacturers of laminate floors will provide a warranty that lasts somewhere between ten and twenty five years. Laminate is also incredibly easy to clean. Soap and water is all it takes to remove a mess from a this type of floor. Other types may require you to use specific types of cleaning products in order to be effective, and they may stain where laminate will not.


Finally, laminate is an excellent choice for the health of you and your family. Other types of flooring can end up contaminated with dust, especially carpets. People who are suffering from allergies will definitely benefit from using laminate floors.

Designing Your Kitchen for Your Budget

“How come it costs that much?” That must be one of the questions that I hear the most often when I submit price quotations for kitchen cabinetry to homeowners. Although it is true that cabinetry can be designed to be low-budget, middle-range, or high-end, there are so many factors involved that can easily push an intended low-budget project into a higher price range.

The place to start when designing kitchen cabinets for a specific budget is doors. There are more door options available than most people realize, and each option will affect your over-all budget. From least expensive to costliest, door styles are available as follows:

1)Melamine. These are flush doors (no panels or profile details), and are available in a wide range of colours and patterns, from solid colours to imitation wood, and countless others. The newer “thermo-fused melamine” doors have a very thin layer of melamine paper applied to a substrate panel-style door. They are inexpensive and not very durable. These should not be used near sources of water or heat, or where frequent washing will be required.

2)Wood veneer. These are flush doors made with a thin layer of wood over a substrate material. Birch, maple, oak, and ash are all in the same price range, while any exotic or more rare woods (mahogany, cherry, walnut…) will increase the cost. These are often found in modern style kitchens.

3)Wood frame with veneered panels. These doors have frames made of solid wood, and recessed flush panels made of a veneered substrate. A common style among this type of door is Shaker. The wood species chosen will affect the price.

4)Plastic laminate. Looks much like melamine doors, but of higher quality, and much more durable. Wider range of patterns and colours available. Laminates have a dark brown core, so depending on the colour of the laminate chosen, you may see dark brown lines at all the joints – at each edge of each door, and so on.

5)Wood frame with wood panels. These have frames and panels made of solid wood. The panel usually has a raised detailing. These are often found in traditional style kitchens. Again, the choice of wood affects the price.

6)Wood or lacquer painted frame with panels of another material. These doors have wood, or lacquer painted, frames and another material used for the panel. The other material can be anything, and it is this other material that will greatly affect the cost. Common panel materials include glass, painted finishes, plastic laminates, metal (perforated, brushed, hammered, etc.), cork, and even wall coverings (such as grass-cloth) applied to a substrate.

7)Thermoplastic. These doors are not manufactured by the average cabinetmaker; they are factory-made. Thermoplastics come in a variety of colours and finishes, but the most common are still the glossy white, and the imitation wood. More durable and more attractive than melamine. About the same price range as wood doors. Some manufacturers are now advertising “thermo-fused melamine” – be careful because the two are not the same at all.

8)Lacquer painted. These doors are usually lacquer painted MDF, but it is the lacquering work that increases the cost because more labour and specialized painting equipment is involved. These are not “painted” cabinets. Lacquer is applied in the form of a spray, over a sprayed-on primer, and no brush marks or other irregularities are visible at all. If you choose a special finish, such as glazing, the cost increases a bit more.

9)Stainless steel. These doors are usually not made by a cabinetmaker’s shop, but are subcontracted out to a metal shop. They are, without a doubt, the most expensive of your door options.

Because the finished sides have to match the doors, your door selection affects the cabinetry itself. So the cabinetry for lacquered cabinets will be costlier than for melamine. The finished side panels to match any wood doors are veneered; solid wood would not be as dimensionally stable (it would warp or bow), and would be astronomically priced. Then you have to consider the interiors of your cabinets. The standard is white melamine on the inside of cabinets, unless something different is requested. The most economical choice, if you do not like the idea of white, is melamine to match the doors. Using a more expensive material inside the cabinets is not advisable: why spend money on wood veneer or lacquer that is more likely to be damaged by pots or dishes being scrubbed against the surfaces? And why put a pricier material that you would then want to protect with shelf-liners, so you would then never see the wood or lacquer anyway?

The countertops are the other major price-affecting selection. The truth is, there are really only two price groups for counters. The plastic laminate counters are the economical choice, and not a bad choice as they are very durable and are now available in some amazing textures and patterns, plus they can be dressed up with wood or solid-surfacing edges. All other counter materials tend to be comparable in cost – granite, solid surfacing (Corian, Silestone, etc…), concrete, and stainless steel. Concrete countertops are quite expensive because of the fact that they are still relatively uncommon, and therefore a specialty-item – you cannot go purchase these just anywhere. Ceramic tiled countertops are the only real mid-priced option. They require a high-quality tile be used, otherwise chips and cracks will be unavoidable. The grout also has to be high quality and safe for food preparation areas, and it must be sealed. Marble, which tends to be a bit less expensive than granite, should not be used in kitchens, as it is porous and prone to staining.

What people find most surprising is that the final touches can become very expensive as well. Handles and knobs range in price from about $2 each all the way up to over $30 each. Kitchens commonly require about 25 handles, so that creates a price difference of $700 right there. A reasonable amount to plan on for handles is $5 to $8 each. The other “budget buster” is the accessories. Built-in spice racks, garbage cans, drawer dividers, pull-outs, and the like tend to be quite costly. Some of these gadgets are incredibly practical though, so try to determine which you would need and which appeal to you mostly because they are just really neat add-ons.

There is one aspect that you should never scrimp on just to save a few dollars, and that is installation. Imperfect installation of even the best-made cabinets will result in doors and drawers that do not close properly, or that look poorly constructed. A good rule-of-thumb is that you should have anything custom-made installed by the specialist that fabricated the item.

Cabinetry for the average sized kitchen can cost anywhere from about $7,000 all the way up to significantly over $30,000. It is often said that a home’s kitchen (including appliances, cabinetry, flooring, lighting, labour, and more) should cost about 15% of the value of the house, so a $250,000 home’s kitchen should cost about $37,500 if you want to go by this method of budgeting. There are a few things to consider with this: the size of the kitchen plays a major role in determining the budget – of course a larger kitchen will be more expensive to redo than a small one; a home built in the 1900’s will likely be costlier to renovate than a home built in the 1970’s; your preferences will affect the budget; and this is a figure that was developed as a guideline to some extent – it is not necessary to follow it. Based on projects handled by Idealspace Design, we have seen that the cabinetry (including countertops, handles, and installation) usually equals about 30% of the total renovation budget of a kitchen. These figures are to help you develop an idea of the budget range you should be expecting, they vary greatly from one project to the next.

LSD Review

What seemed like a tiny blip on the radar has by now completely shaken the entire network of film industry spread across the country. Easily a milestone in Indian cinema this path breaking film is arguably better than most blockbusters released this year, or for that matter any year.

The underlying mood of the film being antiestablishmentarianism, LOVE, SEX aur DHOKHA is a raw and uncompromising take on life. Deliciously entertaining, intensely honest and fiery in its mission, LSD is a riveting ride you won’t forget. Showcasing the pitiable plight of hopeless underdogs and their frantic attempts to live up against the misfortunes thrown upon them by the establishment, LSD is a running commentary of social satire at its peak. Epitomizing contemporary social scenario, LSD has an intensity that is disturbingly painful and shockingly shameful leaving you with memorable characters of outcasts, misfits, freaks and geeks. A real gem, this cinema is a challenge on the sensibilities of the Indian movie watching crowd to re-discover their sensitive sides.

Showcasing a disruptive chronological order (la strada, memento, pulp fiction, etc.) this spellbinding mockumentary, a boon for true film lovers, is simply simply not to be missed. The outstanding nonlinear narrative structure with three stories cleverly intertwined is truly refreshing to witness compared to boring social lectures of epic proportions which has become the hallmark of mainstream Indian cinema. Perhaps the most fascinating thing LSD belts out is Life as it is. It serves you a slice of current life on a platter for you to relish. Stand back in awe. This film is the sign of times.

An intense movie about frantic lives, the neoclassic LSD is a dizzying ride from silence that screams from a dead couple, to dreams and desires being annexed and annihilated by the engulfing fire of penury. LSD explores a dystopian world where love, bending knees, gets buried, amid deranged relationships between desperate people. LSD is definitely an entertaining attempt in the guise of black comedy to disembark and expose a self-righteous dysfunctional, hedonistic, dystopian society gone haywire. Go ahead and laugh yourself silly over its dark humor as you’re caught glued to every passing frame of this slick horror drama. Ultimately the joke’s on you (Read: society) as the superlatively captivating tongue in cheek title song embarks with the credits rolling in the end. What a show.

Delivering a   sledgehammer  impact with a treatment as furious as the message, Dibakar Banerjee is the man on fire burning all those who resist him. Bold. Daring. Dangerous. Dibakar is a force to recon. With dollops of attitude and awards predicted worldwide, this director is here to stay. Open your eyes. The master has arrived. This director has single handedly made the badshahs of this trade redundant with his genius. Uprooting the pundits of this industry as well, with simple plots and unheard actors. This is modern-day cinema at its best.

Having acquired a cult status with a cult following within days of release..LSD is addictive. For some, it’s an obsession. I say it’s a belter.

A New Look For Your Roof

The wide array of shingle options that are currently on the market for a roofing company’s client is very exciting. Now is a great time to be putting up a new home, or just re-roofing your existing home. There are so many different material choices available! Many houses in your neighborhood may still have asphalt shingles. This is because traditional asphalt shingles do have benefits. They look great and are very durable, all while being cost effective. Don’t make the default choice before you take some time to do some research on the many, many other choices out there. You never know one of those choices might be just the right fit for you. One of these options is clay shingles.

For homeowners who want to create a mood or an atmosphere a clay tile roof is the choice. This is the ideal roof for various architectural house styles. Clay tiles have been used on roofs since the ancient times, and are still common in areas around the world. Clay shingles can be found today in a large selection of styles among them flat, interlocking roman tiles, barrel, rectangular barrel, s-curved, and Italian tiles.

Any house can get a boost of interest and beauty from a clay tile roof. Clay tiles use their shape to create interesting and striking shadows that change fluidly as the sun rises and sets and the angle it shines on the roof changes. You will be the envy of the neighborhood with the bright vibrant colors the clay comes in.

The roof tiles are thoughtfully planned with two things in mind. First it is crucial that they interlock for the best chance of a successful installation. They are also designed with special channels so that they can direct water toward the roof’s gutters. Today’s tiles are each made with a mold to keep them all uniform in shape and size. After the tiles are molded to meet all these demands they are dried for up to four days. Every one of the tiles is then kiln heated. If you are looking for a special color in the tile a pigment can be add to the clay during the process. It isn’t necessary though the clay can also naturally give beautiful tones of reds, oranges, and earth tones. In addition to the pigment after the kiln process is done a glaze of black, white, yellow, silver, green, or blue can be used. Other special techniques can be used to give an aged or weathered look to the tile. With so much variation a roofing company should be able to find just the right clay tile for your home or even your business. The fact that there are so many hand done touches may make clay seem to be an expensive option, but the beauty and long lasting durability of a traditional tile roof makes the investment definitely worth it!

Tile is made in several grades. The first grade is the best fit for a northern roofing company’s client since it is resistant to the heaviest frost. The second grade isn’t designed to dip below freezing frequently although it can handle some winter weather. The third grade is found in the southern part of the country and is best installed where the weather will remain mild.

While a great choice, this roof style isn’t right for every home. Remember these tiles are much heavier than the standard asphalt option. You should always have a roofer make certain that your home will be able to bear weight the load of this roof style. This can be a benefit too; the extra weight makes a tile roof more resistant to wind damage.

If you choose to invest in this style of roof, a roofing company will show you toward a clay tile shingle that can resist salt, ice, and rain. Make your home shine in your neighborhood by using a roofing material that both compliments and adds character to the style of your home.

What Is The Best Roofing Material For Your Home?

When it comes to roofing, you want the best roofing  material  you can afford because your roof completes your home. Without it, you would be exposed to the harsh elements of weather and the hot sun beating down on you in the summer. When it rains, it could be destructive to your items in your home. Roofing  material  is important and when you need to complete your roof you want to go with the right  material  for a roof so you know it will last for many years to come.

There are many different types of roofing  materials  to choose from. Shingles is the most affordable of them all. Shingles give your home a unique look and they can keep the harsh weather elements out and the warmth or coolness in. There are many choices when it comes to shingles. You can choose a unique style and color to personalize your choice and create a new look for your home. Shingles is an affordable roofing  material  and is quite popular. The life expectancy of shingles can be twenty to thirty years. Shingles do have a few cons along with the pros. They do require that you have proper ventilation and you may notice moss growing on them over time. When you find a weak shingle and damage may be done to the roof, you may endure a large expense when you fix it.

Cedar shakes are also a popular  material  for a roof. Cedar shakes are similar to the standard shingles. They are environmentally friendly and they last for a long time. These shakes are known to last a good thirty years before you need to replace them. They give the home a rustic look and feel to your home.

Clay is another type of roofing  material . You may feel that clay is out dated but actually it isn’t. Clay roofs are very strong and can last longer than the cedar shakes or shingles. Clay is expensive so if this is the roof you choose be prepared to pay a lot for it.

Metal is one of the more popular types or  material  used for many reasons. They are practical and affordable. They help to fight off the elements of harsh weather as it happens and they can decrease the elements from the sunlight. UV rays tend to bounce off of the metal so your building or home doesn’t feel humid especially if you run air conditioning indoors. There are different metals to choose from; copper, aluminum, galvanized steel, stainless steel, and inverted box rib.

You can choose to do your own roof repair or you can hire a roofing contractor who knows all about the  material  and may be able to help you make the right decision on your roofing needs. Contractors who are experienced, have a good reputation, and are reasonably priced will be factors to look for. When selecting a contractor, arrange for an appointment for them to come out and view the roof to give you a better estimate of what you will need and how much it will cost. Have a couple of contractors come out and give you an estimate so you have more to choose from and you can get the job done correctly and within your budget.

How To Paint Your Car

Masking & Preparation

To begin this venture we need to clean the metal on the car. After we clean the metal, make sure it’s dry before we begin to mask the car, also do a last minute check to be sure it’s free of all dirt grease and other contaminants.

Now it’s time to mask the car, and be sure to mask all that you don’t want  painted  leaving no masking hanging of the car, that would get in the way of a nice  paint  job. The main idea of the whole thing is to produce the best quality  paint  possible with the given surroundings, it is preferred that you have a  paint  booth, but if not, make sure that the area that you use to perform the work is ultra clean and dust free.

After the car has been masked it’s time to get ready to spray the primer, once again make sure that you have cleaned your surroundings, it’s best to have some water on the floor to keep the dust down, once you are confident that the area is clean then you can begin checking the spray guns to be sure that they are clean. This is a very important step especially if they’re not your guns, dirty guns will make an ugly  paint  job there for wasting all of your time.

Now that you have determined that the  paint  guns are clean, make sure that your respirator is in good working order. Now be sure that you have all the products that you need to perform the primer job on the car. You will need primer, reducer and catalyst, you will also need strainers, stir sticks and a measuring device.

It’s best not to have to leave the  paint  booth during the time that your priming the car. Reducer comes in different temperatures and you need to know what temp is best for your working conditions.

The temps are as follows, their is a high temp that is designed to dry slower when it’s hot in the area where your working, high temp is good for 80 degrees and up, theirs also a mid temp, this probably the most popular temp used this is best used from 55 to 80 degrees and is designed to dry faster to make up for the colder temp, due to the fact primer will run easier in the cold weather. Now we have low temp reducer this will dry extremely slow therefore for giving the primer a better chance to run. I tell you all this in an effort to help you better understand the products that you are working with, the more you know the better armed you are for problems when they happen.

Now it’s time to enter the  paint  booth, and as you do pay attention to the booth filters and be sure that they sure clean also. Now get your can of primer and read the instructions on the side, usually the mix is 4:1 or 4 parts primer to one part reducer and a cap or two of catalyst and for the best results follow these instructions. After you spray the first coat of primer, you will need to wait 15 to 20 minute before you can spray the next and so on, the way I like to do this is to give the body work areas a coat or two first to build them up. The whole reason we use primer is is to give the  paint  a smooth surface to stick to and give the metal some protection from the elements, it’s usually a good idea to get 4 or 5 good coats on the car.

If you are really serious about the way that you want it to look the you might want to take the primer one step farther and use an etching primer before you spray the urethane or epoxy primer, an etching primer will give the top coat just a little more to stick to. Etching primer has no building qualities there for it’s not used for smoothing out waves in your work, but it will make the primer stick allot better.

I do suggest that you always use a urethane primer,and not lacquer type,as lacquer can and will shrink urethane or epoxy is recommended for best results. Epoxy is a very hard primer to sand but it’s extremely tough, and urethane is I think probably your best choice,because it’s high building and easy sanding, their are a lot of brands to choose from, I use DuPont euro myself but it’s all up to you to choose that.

Now that your card is primed, it’s time to remove the masking, and I like to do this while it’s still a little wet for the sake of ease, just be very careful about how you do it, you don’t want to screw up all that nice work, so just take it slow and easy while pulling the masking off your car.


Well now the hard part is here, before you start to sand the car you’ll want to be sure that it’s been guide coated, this will make it easier for you to get an ultra smooth finish. Heres where we weed the boys form the men, if your trying to do a show finish on the car that your  painting , you will want to sand it by hand with water running on it all the time.

This is the hard part,and you will have lazy people that will want to use a machine to do this, this is just a word to the wise, you have allot better control over a hand block. The best way to produce this type of high quality work is to have the best control over it that you can, offten a machine will go through your primer. If your trying to produce show quality work this would mean priming that area again I.E. more time spent, this is time that could be spent better doing other things.

Now I will explain a bit about what a guide coat is, this is it in a nut-shell. The guide coat is the step right after the car has been primed, you should do this before you pull the masking, what this in tails is misting a light coat of black  paint  over the primer so that you can see the low spots in your work, and no matter how good you are, you will have low spots. The idea behind this is to sand all the guide coat off with out going through to the metal on your car.

Now it’s time to start the actual sanding of the car, you need to pay close attention to detail on this part of the  paint  job, the better you sand it, the better it will look. I usually start with 320 grit wet paper on a medium hard block, this grit is good for getting the guide coat smoothed out, their will most likely be some small low spots that will require either spot filler or more primer. This is one of those areas where you need to pay a little attention to detail, here you will need to look at the depth of the low spot and think about it, how low is it will primer alone fill it, or will it take spot filler and then primer.

Now that you’ve finished that part it’s time to move on to the next grit of paper, I usually move to 400 grit on a medium- hard sanding block from here, you don’t want to move up to far because it can leave scratches form the previous grit of paper, so a word to the wise, don’t get in a hurry and move up to far a once this will leave seeable scratches in your work. After you’ve sanded the whole car with the 400 grit wet paper then inspect it for bare metal and guide coat still there.

The whole idea with sanding is to make the primer look the way that you want the  paint  to look, I sand my primer until it has a smooth shiny finish on it, as if it were the  paint  on the car.

You need to have a vision of how you want it to look, the one thing that you need to know is, the better you want it to look, the more you will pay for materials. Just a word of caution cheap  paint  materials are just exactly that cheap!!!!! and don’t use them if you want a nice  paint  job.

You might save some money but you will not save the agony of a crappy looking  paint  job. Think about this before you go and buy cheap primers and  paints , do I love my car or is it just some turd to push me to work and the old ladies and back, if you love your car then don’t put cheap crap on it.

Now that I’m through with my little lecture on low quality products, it’s time to move on to the next sanding step. From 400 grit I usually move up to 600 grit wet paper, this is where I usually stop unless requested to go one more step, this is really as far as you need to go with the sanding. After you finish with the 600 grit do one final inspection of the work before cleaning it.

Well now it’s time to clean the car, for this just use soap and water, just like washing a car normally. You should blow it dry though, this being the main difference between this and a regular wash job, be sure to blow all the water out of the little cracks in the car, like the cowl area, under the hood, between the doors and in the trunk lid. Believe me this will blow water on your  paint  during the actual  painting  of the car, so be very through about this step.

If you miss some and it happens to get in your  paint  during the spraying process it will bubble the  paint , the  paint  will look horrible so be sure to get all of the water out of the car first.

Now it’s to mask for the actual  paint , for this refer back to the top of this page. Masking right is an art and you better take this part very serious if you want a good job.

Now that you’ve masked your car it’s time to put it in the  paint  booth, hopefully this is a temperature controlled booth, in any case when you roll that car in the booth all you should have to do is clean and spray, again before you put your car in the booth make sure that it’s ultra clean in there and ready to go.

Now make sure that you have everything you need in there to  paint  the car I.E.  paint , reducer, catalyst, stir sticks, strainers and stir sticks and a measuring stick. Once again check your respirator and be sure that it’s working properly, tie your hair back and if you have a beard cover your face.

Follow all instructions on the back of the  paint  can to the letter or it could cause problems with the out come of your  paint .

Now that you have the car in the booth, be sure to double check the masking on it, what you are looking for here is perfection and nothing less.

This means everything that if you don’t want it  painted  it must be masked for sure, their is no room for error here. Now you need to take a look at the supplies that you have to do the job with, and inventory them to be sure that you have everything you need to complete the job, the last thing you need is to find that you don’t have something right in the middle of  painting  the car. Here’s a list of what you will need for the job.

Supply List

1)  Paint 

2) sealer

3) reducer

4) Catalyst

5) Tack Cloths, preferably designed for clear coat

6) Measuring Cups

7) Stir Sticks

8) Measuring Stick

9) Strainers

10) Respirator in working order

Now I will give you a few things to think about, if your  painting  with metallic  paints  then you must pay allot attention to the settings on your  paint  gun. Metallic  paints  will tend to get lighter if the pressure goes up and darker if it goes down, your fluid flow and fan on your gun will also effect this.

Now I will give you a basic mixing chart, most  paints  will follow this chart.


1) get your  paint  ready to pour.

2) make sure that your mixing cup is clean.

3) Get your strainer and sticks.

4) Put a strainer in the top of the measuring cup.

5) Now pay close attention to the level of  paint  in the cup.

 Paint  Mixing Table. Always be sure to read and follow the  paint  manufactures mixing guide lines. These mixing ratios are just a basic idea of what to do, things will change with different manufactures.

Recommended Air Pressure At Gun Head.  Paint  Mix Ratios.  Paint  Product.
25-40 PSI Mix 4:1:1 Base Coat

25-40 PSI Mix 4:1:1 Sealer

25-40 PSI Mix 4:1:1 Clear Coat

25-40 PSI Mix 2:1:1 Primer Coat

When using a  paint  gun, you try to achieve a certain spray pattern without any heavy or light areas, in the pattern chart above you would try to achieve pattern (A).

Now a lesson on gun angle. Their are only two angles you should ever need to use when holding a spray gun, and they are 45 and 90 degrees angles to the surface of the car that you are spraying, these angles will give you the best outcome possible, and also you should try to keep the spray gun at about 6 to 8 inches from your work. If you get much closer you will more then likely cause a run in the  paint  and, much more distance and you will get a dry look to your  paint  job, you also need to get a feel for the speed that you need to move the gun according to the air pressure and fluid flow of the gun.

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Doctor Who Action Figures Collection

The Doctor Who Action Figures are a treat for every Doctor Who fan. It comes in a set of 10 action figures that is packaged in a window style carton.

The figures are characters from the first series that was aired in 2005. Some of the Doctor Who Figure characters though have already appeared or have been mentioned in the older Doctor Who series. The series is a sci-fi TV show that has been entertaining generations after generations. Though it was first released in 1963, the revived TV program that aired in 2005 was still well received by the older fans and even gained new younger fans.

Among the many Doctor Who Toys released this is perhaps the best one as it is a collector’s item.

The characters included in the set:

  • The 9th doctor. The ninth personification of Doctor Who played by Christopher Eccleston in the first season of the revived TV program. He is a survivor of the Time War in which he wiped out his enemies, the Daleks as well as his own kin.
  • The 10th doctor. Played by David Tennant, this is the tenth personification of Doctor Who. He appeared in three series and also in eight specials.
  • Captain Jack Harkaness. First appeared in “The empty child” episode. A companion of the ninth doctor, he was previously a con man and also a time traveler in the 51st century. He became immortal in the final episode of the first season.
  • Slitheen. First appeared in “Alien of London.” They are a family of aliens from the planet Raxacoricofallapatorius. They have been hatched from eggs and are considered as creatures from living calcium. Profit is their major motivation and from a young age they have already been trained to kill thus making them instinctive hunters.
  • Space pig. A creature that was created by the Slitheens. He was created to crash a spacecraft to be a means of distraction from the real Slitheen invasion on earth.
  • Autons. Artifical life forms that are animated by the aliens known as the Nestene Consciousness. They first appeared in the 1970 Doctor Who episode “Spearhead from Space.” They are also the first monsters that appeared on the show in color.
  • Daleks. Mutants from the alien race that came from the planet Skaro. With their catchphrase “Exterminate!” and their robot like casing they are determined to wipe out non Dalek life forms. They are considered as Doctor Who’s greatest enemies.
  • Empty Child. From the episode “The Empty Child.” This boy wearing a gas mask was spotted by Rose Tyler while Doctor Who was looking for the cylinder that the time vortex marked as dangerous.
  • Sycorax Leader. The sycorax are skinless humanoids who are masters of swords and whips. They have a weapon that can disintegrate their target’s flesh. The leader carries a deadly whip and staff.
  • Moxx of Balhoon. One of the extra-terrestrials that came to witness the Earth’s destruction. They are blue skinned aliens with a small withered body and a big head. They travel on a maneuverable high-tech chair.

Another great thing about the Doctor Who Action Figures is that old and new fans alike will surely enjoy it. Old Doctor Who fans who have watched the earlier series that ran from 1963 to 1989 would surely love this item as they can relieve the days and have this package preserved as it is a collector’s item. So it will be a good gift for your husband, your dad and even your grandfather.

As the series has been revived and has garnered a new and younger fan base, the Doctor Who Action Figures set will also be a great gift for you son, your nephew or niece. They can play with the action figures as their arms and legs can be moved and swiveled. This will be a great new addition to their Doctor Who Toys.

4 Most Common Types of Construction Accidents That Cause Serious Injury and Death

Construction site accidents are responsible for numerous injuries and deaths each year. While construction site accidents vary in severity, the following article discusses the four most common types that result in the most serious injuries, including death.

  1. Electrical Accidents – Perhaps the most common accident occurs because of contact with power lines. Overhead and buried power lines at a construction site are very hazardous because they carry extremely high voltage. Electrocution is not the only injury that can occur. Burns and falls from elevation are also potential risks.

    Another common cause of electrical accidents is the inappropriate use of electrical equipment, such as using equipment outdoors when the label clearly indicates indoor use. Another misuse is cords or tools with worn insulation or exposed wires.

  2. Falls – Falls are the leading cause of fatalities in the construction industry. In fact, falls from elevations account for one-third of all deaths in construction. Falls most commonly occur in the following situations:

    • unprotected sides and floor holes without safety net or personal fall arrest systems;
    • improper scaffold construction;
    • unguarded protruding steel rebars, whereby the fall results in impalement;
    • misuse of portable ladders, such as not positioning and securing the ladder.

    Washington State regulations mandate that a “competent person” must supervise the erection of scaffolds. Despite this regulation, scaffolding accidents still occur when workers attempt to access a scaffold through unsafe methods and fall.

  3. Struck-By Accidents – Struck-by objects are another leading cause of construction-related deaths. About 75% of struck-by fatalities involve heavy equipment, such as trucks or cranes. One in four struck-by vehicle deaths involve construction workers. Forklift accidents are also largely responsible for worker deaths each year in Washington State. Common accidents involve not only vehicles, but also falling and flying objects. This type of accident is likely to occur when workers are beneath cranes or scaffolds or when hit by flying particles or nails when using power tools.
  4. Trenching and Excavation Accidents – Working in trenches and performing excavations are perhaps the most dangerous jobs in construction work. The statistics seem to support this observation with the fatality rate for excavation work being 112% higher than the rate for general construction. In Washington State, collapsed excavation walls or trenches kill an average of two workers per year. Soil weights 2000-3000 lbs. per yard, causing death by asphyxiation or drowning.

    Evacuated material piled too high or too close to the edge of a trench or excavation site is an accident waiting to happen. The piles can roll back on top of workers or cause a cave-in.

    Even entry and exits from trenches or excavations are extremely dangerous if no ladders, stairways or ramps are in place. For this reason and the reasons set forth above, regular inspections of trenches and excavations are necessary to avoid potential hazardous conditions.

Construction accidents happen every day, as well as in cities and states across the nation. Like every other American worker, construction employees are entitled to a hazard-free work environment. The reality, though, is that the very nature of construction work is hazardous.

Get ‘Er Done

“It’s a Problem When It’s a Problem”

Anticipating a problem before it exists is an excellent way to avoid unnecessary expense and business interruption. Truly, “a stitch in time saves nine,” but you need balance.

There is an undeniable advantage to being first to market, and that advantage can be lost if you are buried in ‘analysis paralysis’.

“If you see ten troubles coming down the road, you can be sure that nine will run into the   ditch  before they reach you.” Calvin Coolidge.

Larry the Cable Guy understands business: “Get ‘er done.”

If you have the core parts ready to launch a business initiative, go ahead and launch it. The feedback you receive from early adopters will be enlightening. In addition, you’ll earn revenue faster, and build more support for the initiative within your organization as a result.

Also, you might learn that features or functionality you thought were needed, actually aren’t. That will save money and result in providing something that delivers what your customers actually want instead of what you thought they wanted.

“Don’t overbuild”

If you think of the marketplace as a battlefield, you send the Marines in first to seize control. They sleep on the ground and eat out of cans.

Support staff like engineers, architects, cooks and accountants all show up later to build the buildings and create the permanent infrastructure once the immediate objectives have been reached.

Both types of staff are equally important. Do you have them both in your organization?

If the answer is “No”, you may be missing opportunities to beat your competition to market and lose out on the benefits of being first to market.

Contract Security

Not only security of any firm is important. The duration time to which the security has to be provided to the firm is very important. Sometimes this will be in the case of opening a shopping mall which needs some big actors or actress to open it for their security concerns initially for two to three days, there is a need of more men to guard and protect these actresses from any trouble, so they will be appointed for some few days till that function is over.

So the  contract  period of any security official is very important for an organization. This is because this thing will help in balancing the cost of productivity of the organization.

Productivity within some security framework, helps in achieving the corporate goals of security terms, and also makes effective protection of the assets of the company.

There are two types of units of security available, one is proprietary security unit and the other is security services, the firm has to choose one among them for their organization to suit its policies.

Here the cost and the value factor are the main goals to be achieved by the organization.

Security guard training

What ever may be the service taken by the company the proper training of officials is very important. In the case of proprietary case, the training has to be provided by the client. He has to give good training to men to understand the requirement of the company, what are the dos and don’ts, how much time they have to work, what are the key issues they have to concentrate on etc. the client has to mainly consider two important issues in this training procedure

1. Qualifications of the trainer taken into firm

2. Training provided adequately or not.

Coming to the  contract  services, these are provided on  contract  basis by some well-trained organizations, these services may include security guard services, UN armed security guard services etc.

These men are already well trained by the organization, and they are made to do all the work of the client by the organization policies.

The training provided to these officials can start for reading something in 20minutes and solving the problems to some physical training for 8 hours.

Hiring of officials

These hiring practices mainly keep the officials on the policy “hand off”; this makes the job performance to be categorized as poor to excellent. Based on such issues only he will be hired.

Some times the background investigations help out to sort out the best officials, if the background is clean than it can of sure

Suitable candidates have to be selected and search is to be made for proper connections to the firms

Personal qualifications

Most of the officials are selected for small wages for the companies, but efficient and full trained men require more wages, all these issues are sorted out by the service providers and finally provide well and efficient workers for the companies.

Suitable  contract  basis would be quite efficient for the organizations performance.

How to Grow an Olive Tree in a Container

Olive trees add Mediterranean flair to any abode. You don’t need to live in Southern Europe or California to enjoy the leathery, gray-green leaves of an olive tree. Neither do you need to own a garden for olive trees can be grown on balconies or indoors quite easily.

Most nurseries offer potted olive trees for sale. You will need to repot the olive tree a year later as the roots will start getting crowded in the normal container. To make your olive tree comfortable I suggest you buy yourself a large terra cotta pot with a drainage hole at the bottom, fast draining potting soil and a balanced houseplant fertilizer on the same day.

For your olive tree locate a spot which is situated near a south facing sunny window. Your olive tree will require 6 hours of direct sunlight a day to thrive. The pot should not be placed near a radiator or heat vent. Also consider that if the plant is placed to close to the window this could act as a magnifying glass and “burn” the olive tree.

After you have found a pleasant spot for your olive tree you will need to transplant your tree into the pot. I suggest you position the terra cotta pot first and bring your soil and tree to the pot and work there because once the pot is filled with soil it can be very heavy to reposition.

First fill the terracotta pot half way with the potting mix.

Then moisten the potting mix.

To remove the olive tree without damage to the roots from the original container you will have to clutch the rim and then turn the pot upside down.

Tap the pot gently with the heel of your hand.

The olive tree will slide out.

Pick up the tree and loosen the sides of the root ball with your thumbs.

Position the root ball of the olive tree so that it is about 1 inch below the rim of the pot.

Then fill the pot with the rest of the soil mixture.

Firm the soil around the olive tree.

Then water thoroughly.

You will know when to water your olive tree by putting your finger into the soil mixture. If this feels dry 1 inch below the surface, then water well. In the colder seasons olive trees take a natural rest so you will need to water less in autumn and winter. But make sure the soil never dries out completely! In the winter you only need to fertilize once a month and in summer every two weeks.

You can prune the tips of the branches in spring to encourage a bushy growth on the head. Make the cuts where where a pair of leaves attaches to a stem.

Unfortunately olive trees sometimes are victimized by soft-bodied scale which is small yellowish brownish insects which attach themselves to the stems of the trees and suck sap from the plant. To eliminate the scale you will need to spray the tree with insecticidal soap. Garden centers have different types of remedies for indoor use.

Enjoy your olive tree.

Air Conditioning – Major Uses For Air Conditioning

During the twentieth century air conditioning has been used in many ways to enhance our quality of life. Since the 1950s new houses and commercial buildings have been built very much with the comfort of the occupants in mind. Although the technology to achieve a high degree of comfort in buildings was available many years before this, it was not really financially viable for mass production in domestic properties at the low end of the market. Commercial air conditioning has a longer history, but recent advances have improved the efficiency and reliability of the equipment to a marked degree.

Air conditioning has actually been used in private homes since the times of the Ancient Egyptians, although of course this was strictly for the rich and powerful. It was only once air conditioning became established in commercial use, in textile mills where temperature and humidity control are absolutely essential, that it transferred into homes on any large scale. The years immediately following the Second World War saw the greatest expansion in the inclusion of air conditioning built in to new homes. These developments have had a profound effect on the construction industry and on urban planning, because it has allowed for the building of much taller buildings. This is because the speed of the wind at high altitude makes natural ventilation difficult.

As well as enjoying comfortable living conditions at home, many modern workers carry out their daily job in an environment enhanced for optimum comfort and performance. Scientific tests have now been carried out to ascertain the optimum temperature conditions for different types of work tasks to be carried out in and advanced systems of air conditioning have now been developed to produce these conditions no matter what the weather conditions outside. Of course there are some jobs where the comfort of the workers is secondary to the needs of the process being carried out. Today’s air conditioning evolved from the need for temperature and humidity controls in textile mills.

Of course the great change in the transportation habits of people in the Western world has also led to another common use for air conditioning. Both commercial public transport vehicles and private cars are now routinely fitted with systems to filter, regulate and even purify the air. With the modern lifestyle in the Western world meaning that more time is spent in vehicles, the need has increased to make the environment in those vehicles more comfortable. It is not only on hot days that the inside of a vehicle becomes uncomfortable to be in. On a cool but sunny day the temperature can still rise to an uncomfortable level in a fully enclosed vehicle. As well as helping with temperature control, air conditioning can help with reducing pollution levels in an environment where people are very much at risk.

From being an exclusive preserve of the rich and powerful in ancient times, air conditioning has become so common that there can hardly be anyone in the Western world who does not derive some benefit from it. Even if you live in one of the few modern homes not equipped with it, the chances are that you will work in a workplace fitted with some form of temperature and humidity control. Air conditioning is one of the great benefits to have become available to the masses in the twentieth century and with modern research the ozone harming gases are being replaced with more environmentally friendly options. There is no doubt that air conditioning will continue to benefit humanity throughout the coming century.

EQ and Compression Techniques For Drums in Mixing

Even though the drummer plays the entire kit as a single instrument, the miking of individual drums and cymbals can make for a very complicated mix scenario. The reason I reference country and rock music specifically has to do with the fact that in these genres the sounds of the individual drums and cymbals are not only singled out by individual microphones placed on each of them but also their sounds are exaggerated to create an even more dramatic effect.

Consider, for example, the tom fills in Phil Collins’ “In The Air Tonight.” By contrast, jazz drums are often treated as a more cohesive, unified sound and it’s not unusual to use a simple pair of overhead mics to capture the sound of the entire jazz drum kit.

In this article, I’m going to go drum by drum providing EQ and compression settings that will, hopefully, provide you with a jumping off point to getting great drum sounds in your mix. Because of its all-in-one mixing board channel approach, I’ll be using Metric Halo’s Channel Strip plug-in with its EQ, compression and noise-gate to illustrate my comments about various EQ and compression settings.

Kick Drum

As the heartbeat of the contemporary drum kit, the kick drum sound we’ve grown accustomed to hearing is both boomy and round on the bottom and has a nice, bright click in the high mid range. It’s the balancing act between EQ and compression that gives the kick drum its ability to stand out in a mix. Beginning with EQ, the best way to accentuate the lows and highs is to remove some low-mids. I’m a big believer in cutting as opposed to boosting EQ to achieve a desired effect. As a result, I tend to pull somewhere between 2 to 4db at between 350hz-450hz. Then, after removing some of this low-mid mud from the sound, I can enhance the clicking sound of the beater hitting the head of the kick drum by boosting around 2db in the 2k-3k range. I’m providing approximate dB and frequency range settings because depending on the kick drum, mic placement and, of course the drummer, all of these settings will vary. Use these general ranges as a jumping off point and then trust your ears.

As far as compression settings go, the trick is to preserve the transient attack of the kick drum with a fast but not too fast attack time (9ms in this instance) and then a quick release (11ms) so the compressor is ready to respond to the next kick drum hit. The ratio I use is a relatively mild 2.5:1 and I adjust the threshold until I hear the kick sound I’m searching for. Finally, in order to give the kick drum sound some separation from the rest of the kit, I use a noise gate and adjust the threshold to allow the kick sound to come through while essentially muting the majority of the other drum/cymbal sounds. Also, while setting the attack to the Channel Strip’s fastest “auto” setting, I allow for a long (400ms) release.

Sub Kick

This particular miking trick is one that can be used to bring great low-end presence to the kick drum. By way of explanation, a short stand holding essentially the woofer of a speaker is placed in front of the kick drum and picks up predominantly the low frequencies. When blended with the kick drum mic, the sub-kick generates great power in the lowest part of the frequency.

In order to accentuate the most important elements of the sub kick’s sound, I tend to use a low pass filter approach to my EQ that removes all frequencies above 500hz and drops off even more dramatically below 100hz. This is to make sure that only the essential parts of the sub kick’s sound come through. The sub kick should be felt more than it is heard. In terms of compression, a ratio of approximately 5:1, a relatively slow attack (120ms) and medium fast release (57ms) allow the sub kick’s tone to stay present and full underneath the sound of the kick drum’s regular miked sound. Then, I’ll use a noise gate with a fast attack (20ms) and slower release (200ms) to keep out any other kit sounds that might otherwise bleed into the sub kick sound.


Along with the kick drum, the snare drum is essential for driving a rhythm track. Poor EQ and compression techniques can leave it sounding thin, dull and generally uninspired. In order to accentuate the best parts of the snare sound with EQ, I’ll boost the low end of the snare by 2-3dB at around 80hz, cut 2-3dB between 350-450hz and then boost again, if necessary, for more high-end brightness, by 1-2dB at 5k. These three EQ points are a great place to start to sculpt an interesting snare sound.

Compression on a snare is a real balancing act where too much will take away the energy of the performance and too little will make it practically impossible to find an appropriate level for the snare in the mix. I use a ratio of 2.5:1 with a very quick attack (2ms) and release (11ms). If you’re finding that you’re losing the snap of the snare, slow your compressor’s attack a little but remember that slowing the attack too much will take the compressor too long to grab onto the sound and will leave the snare much less manageable in the mix.

Adjust the threshold settings until things sound right to your ear. This basically allows you to decide how much overall compression you’ll be applying. Don’t overdo it or the drum will lose its energy but don’t go too lightly or the snare won’t stand up in the mix. Gating the snare is a trial and error process as well. Depending on whether the snare approach in the song is aggressive or soft will have a lot to do with your threshold settings. Like on the kick drum, I use the very fast “auto” attack and a slower release on the gate in an attempt to keep out the ambient sounds of the cymbals, toms and kick.


While obviously a cymbal, the hi-hat is often used more as a rhythmic element than a tone color like some of the other cymbals in a drum kit. Making sure it has its own sonic space and speaks clearly without being too loud and distracting is what EQ and compression are about in this instance. For EQ, I’ll again use a shelving approach at around 200hz that will effectively clear out low-end information that is non-essential to the hi-hat sound. If I’m interested in bringing in a bit more high-end shimmer and sizzle, I’ll boost between 1-3dB between 6k and 8k again using my ears to tell me what’s working. In general, I tend to stay away from compression on the hi-hat as it tends to find is own dynamic range without too much additional help.

Low (Floor) Tom

A well-mixed set of toms can make all the difference between drum fills that are exciting and those that go by without catching the listener’s ear. Starting with the low tom, I tend to look for the places in the frequency range that bring out both the boom and the snap (similar to the way I approach the kick). In order to accentuate the low quality of this drum, I’ve found that a dramatic cut (12dB) at around 500hz allows the drum to speak clearly. Also, to add the high-end snap, a semi-aggressive boost of between 4-6dB at around 3k will do the trick. Compression also adds a lot to this equation. A ratio of around 4.5:1, a slower attack of 120ms and medium slow release of around 90ms will help the sound remain full and resonant. For the threshold, I simply adjust until the tom rings properly. Gating is another major factor for toms as the large diaphragm mics placed on these drums tend to pick up a lot of the extraneous sounds from the rest of the kit.

I set the gate with the quickest “auto” attack and a slow 400ms release and then adjust the threshold until I’m hearing only the low tom come through when it’s hit. For the “tweak heads” among us there’s a slightly more accurate and labor-intensive way to do this. By going into the actual sound files in your DAW and deleting all but the tom hits themselves, you can create a perfectly gated tom track.

High (Rack) Tom

Like the low tom, the high tom has it’s own frequencies that should be cut/accentuated to bring out the sweetest parts of the sound. For EQ, I’ll do another big cut of around 10dB at 600hz and I’ll make a similarly big boost of around 7dB at approximately 2k. For compression, I use a slightly more aggressive 6:1 ratio slower attack (100ms) and a quick release (25ms). As with the low tom, I’ll gate the high tom using the identical gate attack (fastest “auto”) and release (400ms). The key to the threshold is to adjust it until only the high tom punches through keeping the channel essentially muted for the rest of the time. A final note on the toms, as all tom sizes, tunings and even drummers are different, you’ll need to play with these settings until you find the sweet spots.

Overheads / Room Mics

Given that we’ve made a real effort to isolate and enhance each of the individual drums in the kit, overhead mics serve the dual purpose of capturing the cymbals and integrating the blended sound of the kit back into the sound of the drums. I pay attention to three specific EQ points in order to give the overhead mics a clean, balanced tone. First I’ll use a high pass filter (shelving EQ) at the very low frequency of 40hz to clean up any unnecessary sub-sonic rumbling. Then I’ll pull around 5dB at between 100 and 200hz to prevent any low-mid buildup. Finally, if necessary, I’ll enhance the overall brightness of the cymbals/kit with a small 1-2dB boost at around 5k. For compression, I’ll set the ratio at about 3:1, the attack at around 110ms and the release at a slightly quicker 70ms. The threshold should be adjusted to make sure that the overhead/room sound blends with the overall kit mix. Finally, adjust the volume of the overhead mics in the mix until you pick up just enough of the room to put some air and depth back into the kit.

Limiting the Sub Mix

A final trick to add punch to the overall drum kit is to send all of the individual tracks to a stereo sub mix and place a limiter like the Waves L1 on that stereo auxiliary track. By adjusting the threshold until the attenuation is between 5-7dB, you’ll find that the kit has a really satisfying overall punch and presence.


While I’ve been painfully specific about EQ, compression and gate settings, it’s important to remember that every mix situation is different. Use all of these settings as a jumping off point and then use your ears to tweak the sounds until you’re happy. Good luck!

Attract Money With Runes and Laws of Quantum Physics

Rune Meditations FA for Wealth/Prosperity

For the first time you can now combine the Ancient Wisdom of the Runes with the power of Quantum Physics to attract wealth.

I believe in the power of the Universal Creative Energies called the RUNES. The power of the Law of Attraction. The Law of Three. The Law of Resonant Frequencies. All laws you can now use to recreate your life the way you want it.

All these laws are now fully explained in the modern day language, called Quantum Physics. Our ancestors and the modern day metaphyscians called these working laws The Mind of God.

By consciously using these laws we can change our destiny, and our lives, to include more abundance, health and happiness.

Runic energies are the most powerful way to do this.

I am sharing with you my 25 years of rune work. I will use the modern languages of energy and Quantum Physics.

Runes, Rune-Meditations, Rune-Magic, Rune-Yoga are all part of the great truth of Creation.


You will notice that there is a great similarity between this meditation and the meditation for health. I am a firm believer in repetition. The more you see something, the sooner you will grasp it

What you about to read, about runic energies, you won’t find on any where else. This is the first time RUNES are presented from a strictly energy point of view.

To practice this runic breathing exercise you do not need any ritualistic paraphernalia. All you will need is to print out the oversized rune you will find at the this lesson.

It is best to print it out on hard card stock, it will last longer.

For this runic breathing exercise we will use RUNE-FA . The Rune of mobile wealth.

To begin, sit comfortably in your favorite chair. It is best if possible to use the same chair everyday for your runic meditations. In this way the chair will become imbued and charged with runic energies. After awhile, just sitting in the chair will bring you the feeling of peace and calm.

Relax, do not strain. Breathe slowly and deeply Do not be concerned if you are doing it right or wrong. Do not be concerned if you are pleasing or displeasing a god/goddess. It is not a ritual. It is about attracting rune energies.

It is your personal rune-meditation-for-wealth breathing exercise. It is energy and vibrations.

Where you place your attention your energy flows. You actually touch what you think about, and it will touch you back. When you place your attention on the runes in the Quantum Ocean their energies will flow towards you. You are performing an energy transfer.


The runic wealth energy that you are about to attract has to have a specific target, a specific place to flow to. You will now prepare yourself to mentally receive these energies into your personal energy field (AURA.)

Once your personal energy field is charged with this runic energy then you can mentally create whatever means to this wealth that you desire

Or, you can let this rune energy circulate throughout your body and energy fields, charging each cell in your body with the desire for wealth energy.

Or, you can mentally send runic energy to someone at a distance to help their wealth process to begin.

This is known as magic at a distance.

Your mind is a very powerful radionic tool, if it is used correctly. Visualization is one of its most creative tools. It works extremely well with runic energies.

We are not going to attach any magical, mystical, spiritual, religious or secret meanings to our runic breathing exercises. We are simply going to think of it as our individual energy system exercise. It is into this middle pillar system of energies that we will pour our runic energies..

You can visualize your five energy chakras as basketball size spheres.

These five chakras are :

* CROWN CHAKRA basketball sphere 4″ above your head.

* THROAT CHAKRA basketball sphere in neck and throat area.

* HEART CHAKRA basketball sphere in heart area.

* GENITAL CHAKRA basketball sphere in genital area.

* GROUND CHAKRA basketball sphere in your feet area.

These five chakras are lined up in the center of your body. There is a 3″ tube connecting each one. This way the runic energy can flow from the crown chakra to the ground chakra.



Sit quietly and visualize your middle pillar energy system within you.

Visualize an infinite ocean of energy, the Quantum Ocean all around you. Use whatever visualization you wish. This is not a prayer nor a sacred ritual to the gods/goddesses. You can’t do it wrong. This is your own personalized runic energy healing exercise.

Hold the large FA cardboard rune in your lap with both hands.

Look at it. As you place your attention on the runic symbol on your lap the FA energy from the Quantum Ocean will start to flow towards you.

Your runic energy must have a target, a place to go. This is where most students make their mistake. You must give the energy a specific target.

The runic energy target will be your Middle Pillar Energy System .

Now slowly and steadily, while looking at the FA rune symbol, breath this energy into yourself. Breath it in as if it were a wonderful flowing stream of light.

Intone (say mentally to yourself)

“I am now inhaling the PROSPERITY runic energy of FA, from the Quantum Ocean into my crown chakra (4″ basketball sphere above your head.”)

By using your mental powers you control the runic energy exchange from the Quantum Ocean to your energy fields.

Mentally see this runic energy flowing from the Quantum Ocean into your crown chakra. See your crown chakra fill up with this energy.

Take a moment and feel and visualize this crown chakra full of runic prosperity energy. Do not rush.

As you advance in your studies you will learn to use colors also.

For now it is suffice to use white light. But make it a dynamic, sparkling white light.

Intone three times.

Take a deep breath each time, look at FA rune in your hands.

The runic energy in the crown chakra will now start to flow down the 3″ tube and start to fill your throat chakra.

When your throat chakra is full of runic energy, see this energy flowing down the 3″ tube into your heart chakra.

When you heart chakra is full, see the energy flowing down the 3″ tube into your genetal chakra.

When your genital chakra is full, see the energy flowing down to your ground (feet) chakra.

Take a few minutes and sit in your middle pillar of runic prosperity energies. See this rich white FA energy filling all of your 5 spheres (chakras) and your middle pillar.


Start to circulate the money energy around your body.

Visualize a 3″ stream of this white light flowing out of your crown chakra and flowing down the front of your body.

This 3″ energy flows down your face, your chest, your stomach, your genetals, your legs, to your feet and toes.

Then under your feet and up your heels, your calves, your thighs, your buttocks, your spine, your neck, back of head and back into your crown chakra.

You now have a flowing ring of runic money energy flowing down the front of your body and up the back. You have the first ring of energy around your body.


Start a second stream of energy out of your crown chakra down the left side of your head, your ear, your shoulder, your arm, your hip, your thigh, your leg, your ankle.

Under your feet and up the right side. Your ankle, thigh, hip, shoulder, ear and back into the crown chakra.


From your heart chakra visualize a third 3″ flow of energy coming out of your heart. Let it flow to about one foot in front of you.

Now circle it clockwise around your body from left to right.

Let us stop here for a moment. This may sound very complicated. It is not. After some practice you will be able to do the whole middle pillar healing exercise in 15 minutes.

Fifteen minutes once a day to improve your health, wealth and happiness. This is a small price to pay.

Remember we are dealing with energies. Energy flows. That is what we are doing, getting the energy out of the Quantum Ocean to flow towards you and into you

You have now created 3 rings of flowing runic energy around your body.

One around the front of your body from crown chakra to feet and up your back.

One around your body from left side of crown chakra down the left side of your body. Up the right side of your body and back into the crown chakra.

One around your middle, clockwise.

Now expand these three rings so that you fill your aura, which is one foot from your body. See and fill your aura full of white prosperity runic light. Forget about the 3 rings and concentrate on your aura being full.

This is your egg shaped auric shell. This is where all prosperity begins.

You always have an aura surrounding you. Most people have aura’s that are very close to their body like a pair of pantyhose. We want to expand our auras out so that they are surrounding us at least one foot from our bodes all around us. This gives us more energy and more protection.

By continuing your breathing exercises your aura will get stronger and stronger. Your health and well being will also increase as your aura gets stronger.


(1) Give yourself a general prosperity healing session?

(2) Send prosperity energy to a certain business?

(3) Send this prosperity energy to a friend or loved one? (distance does not matter)


Take a deep breath and mentally intone:

“I am now inhaling this powerful runic FA energy into every cell of my physical, mental, emotional and spiritual bodies.”

Feel the energy from your auric shell entering your body and filling every cell.


Take a second breath and repeat intonation.


Take a third breath and repeat intonation.


Now sit quietly as your auric shell, which is filled with FA wealth energy, charges every cell of your body.

Sit as long as you like.

Give a silent thank you to the Rune FA .

Know that the Rune Meditation for Prosperity is at work as you go about your business


Let us say you have a particular business or money making plan that you want to send prosperity energy to.

Let us say that you are concerned about your website business.

While you are sitting in your chair with your auric shell full of runic FA energy, take a deep breath and intone mentally:

“I am now sending the powerful prosperity energy of the FA rune into every fawcett of my webiste business.”

Visualize the white sparkling energy in your aura flowing into your website. Visualize your website on the screen in front of you. Your website as far as the Quantum Ocean is concerned is a living entity. All living entities give off and attract energy. Treat it as if it was alive and send it prosperity energy.

Again three breaths.

Three and nine are the magical multiples when using the runes.

Sit as long as you like and enjoy the felling of well being that this transfer of energy between you and your website will bring you.

You can do it as often as you like.

You can use this breathing exercise and send the energy to any business or money making plan you have.

We are talking about energy. The beautiful simplicity of this exercise is that we are attracting energy out of the Quantum Ocean (MIND OF GOD). We are then using our minds to direct this prosperity energy to where it is needed.


Send wealth energy to the business of a friend or a loved one. Life-force knows no distance barrier. It does not travel like electricity does in our three dimensional world. The only distance in the world of Life-force (Quantum Ocean) is similarities of shape.

When you think of your loved ones business you set up a mental link. The thought of your loved ones business in your mind is your loved ones business as far as Quantum Ocean is concerned.

So, when you think of it, you are actually making contact. You are touching the business. Close your eyes and think of the business. You are mentally sending it the energy you have stored in your auric shell. You are touching it with this energy. There is no distance between their business and your mental picture of it.

With your aura filled with the runic FA energy, take a deep breath, visualize your loved ones business in your mind, then exhale slowly through your mouth and see this prosperity FA energy flowing out of your mouth and into the auric shell of the business.

Once it reaches the auric shell of your friends business it will know where to go to bring prosperity.

You can also hold a photo or a business card of your loved ones business in your hands and breathe on it. The prosperity FA energy will flow into the picture and into the business.

The Creator God made all his laws simple . Only man complicates them.

Learn all you can about the Laws of Quantum Physics. The next 2000 years will be all about energy and energy transferring.

You can use runes and the Laws of Quantum Physics to attract wealth energy out of the Quantum Ocean (Mind of God) and into your life.

Nonprofit Organization – Basic Understanding of a Statement of Functional Expenses

The statement of functional expenses gives users a different perspective on the non-profit organization’s financial situation, providing details not available on other reports. It shows expenses, such as salaries, rent, postage, like an income statement, but the expenses are allocated to more than one column.

When you look at a statement of functional expenses, you will see lines listing expenses to your left and then, three columns labeled: program, general & administration (G&A), and fund-raising- like a matrix. Note that this statement presents expenses only, no revenues.

If you want to verify how much was spent in salaries for programs, for example, you review to the statement of functional expenses, focusing on the “salaries” line and program column. Some organizations’ statements show multiple program columns, one for each program. For instance, a non-profit could have a column for food program, and another column for job training, showing expenses separated by program-instead of combining all program expenses in one column.

Donors and other stakeholders look into this statement to verify how expenses were allocated. Usually most expenses are shown under program, then G&A, and lastly fund-raising. If fund-raising has the most expenses, something is wrong- non-profits are “alive” to fulfill a program, a mission statement, not to raise funds. Raising funds is ancillary function, not the main event and too much in that area raises red flags.

Allocating no expenses to fund-raising also can raise red flags, since very few organizations have no fund-raising expenses at all. If nothing is showing in that column, the credibility of the expense allocation can come into question. A typical allocation presents programs with about 80% of total expenses, G&A with 15%, and fund-raising with 5%.

One of the challenges in allocating expenses is to make sure it is reasonable. Usually time sheets are filled out by everyone in an organization so that salaries are allocated properly. Occupancy may be a good way to allocate utilities or insurance. If programs occupies 90% of space, then 90% of utilities expenses are allocated to program. The allocation must pass outside CPA firm annual audits, so it needs to be sensible and consistent.

The statement of functional expenses is required on the information tax returns-990 and is an integral part of the financial statements of many non-profits.

Example of a statement of functional expenses:

ABC Organization

Statement of Functional Expenses


[Columns] Programs/ General and Administrative / Fund-raising/ Total





Veterinary Expenses


Office supplies