Driveway Pavers – Do it Yourself

A perfectly manicured Driveway Pavers, right after the entrance of your home, has the power of converting your home into a mansion. It has been observed numerous times, how this can alter the overall looks and the beauty of your home.

Earlier, you always needed a professional to make such an elegant arrangement. However, in case the total area to be paved is not more than 500 square feet, you can yourself initiate the construction process. Just that you need some sort of practicality to your approach, little bit of mathematics, few weekend hours and of-course a set of tools. Your driveway is ready!

The first step in the construction of Driveway Pavers is to make a proper planning. Make a diagram of the area which needs to be converted into a driveway. You should carefully note down the existing building, or any structure which needs to be altered.

Second step includes arranging the proper materials such as construction tools and the stone/granite which will be finally used in the paving.

Excavation is the third step. For the vehicles to pass comfortably, you need to excavate close to 9′ to 12′ of land. Once excavated, you can use a leveler to level the land.

A single layer of sand is always recommended just above the excavated land and below the pavers. This is the fourth step.

The next step includes arranging the driveway pavers: mostly stones or granites. You should cut these accordingly, as per the need and arrange them as per the plan. The pavers must be either diagonally or in the diamond pattern arranged on the sand bed. The ends should be at 90 degree to each other. If required, the stone also needs to be cut using the stone cutter. Wearing of the safety glasses is always recommended

That’s it. The paved driveway is ready. Let the sand and the paved stones for few days to be properly set in.

Maniac Magee by Jerry Spinelli: A Book Review

How much can happen to one boy in the space of a few years of his life? A lot, if you are the stuff that legends are made of. The legend is Jeffrey Lionel Magee, also known as Maniac Magee, in the book by the same name, by Jerry Spinelli.

He was born in an ordinary house, to ordinary parents. But when a trolley crashed into the river, killing them, Jeffrey’s life began to change. He was sent to live with his Uncle Dan and Aunt Dot, who lived together but shared nothing and never spoke to each other.

After eight years of this, one day Jeffrey started screaming during a school play. Then he left the auditorium, running, and he never stopped.

Thus began his life as a homeless child. He found himself in the black section of town, with a girl who hauled her entire library in a suitcase, back and forth to school. After he pleaded with her, Amanda finally lent him one book to read.

After that, the stories about him began. He was the only boy…ever…ever!…to not be afraid to enter Finsterwald’s back yard. If you lost your baseball or model airplane because it flew over the fence into his back yard, you didn’t dare go in there to retrieve it. Nobody would deliver papers there. Nobody would shovel that sidewalk, not even for a zillion dollars.

But Jeffrey Magee wasn’t afraid. He rescued Arnold when some high school kids were trying to throw him, screaming, over the fence into Finsterwald’s back yard. These things, plus his athletic feats, are what started people calling him “Maniac,” and the name stuck.

But he didn’t have a home. He jumped the fence at night to sleep with buffalos at the zoo. He snuck into Mrs. Pickwell’s house for dinner every now and then, and nobody thought anything was wrong, because they had so many kids to begin with, and usually a couple of friends over as well, that everyone figured he was just somebody else’s friend.

More than anything, though, this is a story of Maniac and the friends he makes, the fights he fights, and the challenges he faces. So much happens to him, there’s more stuff in here than an encyclopedia.

The chapters are short, and the way the people and events in his life weave together as the book goes on is interesting. Through it all, Maniac keeps running, running, running, looking for a place and people to go home to.

This has been a popular book with kids since it was published in 1990. Part of it is just that there is so much going on, and part of it is that Maniac and the things he does are so unusual. Kids can relate to his not feeling like he belongs anywhere, yet he keeps trying.

It’s a hard book to categorize. It’s not really about sports, although there is some baseball and running in it. It touches on racism, but that’s not the biggest part of the story, either. You’ll have to read Maniac Magee, by Jerry Spinelli, yourself, to see what you think.

Removing Stuck Screws With a Screw Extractor

The Screw Extractor:

All craftsmen have experienced the terror and toils of stuck bolts and screws; these tasks can quickly turn into some of the toughest jobs in the shop. When a screw or bolt gets stuck, or its head has been stripped or broken, it can be truly impossible to extract it. Craftsmen will go to excessive lengths, using excessive force to remove these frozen screws; but when the dust settles, craftsmen find the screw extractor. A screw extractor is a small, and yet miraculous device that gets into the center of a stuck screw, and releases its grips from the inside out.

The screw extractor is a small tool with big results designed to dive into the interior of a stuck screw (through a pilot-hole), bite into the it and turn the screw out counter-clockwise. Screw extractors range to fit screw-heads from 3/32″ and 1/2″ in diameter. They are built with a square head and shaft on one end and reverse tapered (cutting screw) threads on the other. The square head is designed to be fastened to a T-handle providing leverage to turn the extractor into the frozen screw. The square head can also be turned with vice grip pliers or an adjustable wrench. Extractors are manufactured with superior grade steel so that the shaft can be gripped with vice grips or an adjustable wrench for additional force or turning power. The extractors tapered threads are the real muscle of the device biting into the insides of a screw. The treads are designed to turn counter-clockwise, or backwards, reverse drilling into the center of a screw to pull it out. As the extractor is turned, it bites down tighter and digs deeper into the frozen screw and eventually begins turning the damaged screw with it. Essentially the extractor reverses the screw out of its frozen position.

Extraction:

Drilling a pilot-hole into the damaged screw is the first step to getting it out: With a power drill, drill a hole into the center of the damaged screw’s head. Start by using the smallest drill bit available and work your way up to a larger sized bit for a larger pilot-hole. Because the size of the pilot-hole will vary depending upon the size of the extractor, the extractor should come with a bit size recommendation on its packaging; this should help eliminate most of the guess work on your part.

After drilling the pilot-hole, firmly grip the extraction bit with a T-Handle or pliers and insert the extractor into the pilot-hole. Tap the top of the extractor with a hammer to secure it firmly into the screw. While exerting downward pressure on the extractor, turn it counter-clockwise (to the left) to begin releasing the stuck screw. If turning the extractor is difficult or unstable, tap the extraction bit down a bit more firmly into the screw. This should give the threads a better hold, and better biting power into the screw. You may also press down a bit more firmly on the top of the extractor, but be careful not the break the extraction bit off into the stuck screw. If a better bite, or increased pressure doesn’t make the process any easier, you may try enlarging the pilot-hole. Slightly enlarge the pilot-hole and attempt the process again. This should have that stubborn screw out in no time.

Sometimes stuck screws or bolts can prove to be one of the biggest frustrations in the shop. Using a screw extractor, however, can eliminate that stress and get that screw loose with minimal time and effort. Before resorting to the most drastic measures, the screw extractor provide relief in eliminating that stuck screw.

Dimensions of Bolt

Finding the Right Bolt Size: Dimensions of Bolt

Going nuts in finding the right bolt? The simple secret is the thread. The threads are the ridges or edges that enclose or surround the bolt. Logically speaking, a thread too big for a bolt would not do or fasten or lock and same goes with a thread smaller than the bolt, fitting would be impossible. Signs like M5 or the like are keys in finding bolts. M simply stands for millimeter and the variable (say 5) is the size. Therefore, a five (5) millimeter bolt is a M5 bolt. However, standards of bolt measurements may vary depending on a location.

There are a lot of types of bolts that could be encountered in all ‘do-it-yourself’ shops or hardware stores. The bolt that has a concave threaded shaft or shank is the breakaway bolt. This kind of bolt is used in some airplanes but usually applied in fire hydrants. The bolt that has threads all the way to the top or head is called the tap bolt. The bolt that comes with the ‘wing’ (or nut) is referred as toggle bolt.

Bolts or Screws?

A clear characteristic is not necessary in dealing or understanding bolt sizes or dimension. Nonetheless, attempts in defining the differences of the two items are not that of great importance. However, both screws and bolt are definitely considered or taken as fasteners.

Standard Bolt Sizes

Grade mark, mechanical properties and nominal size range (in inches) had been the terminologies used in measuring bolt dimensions. Mechanical properties are tensile strength, yield strength and proof load. These given properties are measured in pound square inch or psi. SAE J429 fastener is made of medium carbon steel and ¼ to 1 ½ nominal size range. The tensile strength, yield and proof load are 60000, 36000 and 33000 respectively.

Low carbon steel composes bolts that were indicated as ASM A307 Grades A and B. This kind of bolt has a tensile strength of 60000 and nominal size range if ¼ to 4. The B8 ASTM A193 Grade B8 has a tensile strength of 80000, yield strength of 100000 and its nominal size range is ¼ to ¾. The ASTM A320 Grade L7 has a tensile strength of 125000 and yield strength of 105000. Grade B8T has a yield and tensile strengths are 30000 and 75000. Its nominal size is ¼ and bigger. Grade 5 of SAE J429 tensile, proof load and yield capacities are set to 120000, 85000 and 92000 correspondingly. Its nominal size is ¼ through 1 and above 1 to a half inch.

Comprehending bolt dimensions or sizes and their components are the factors in using them properly. Knowing some few tips would take the complexity out and in the just few familiarizations; using bolts would never be a problem.

Cement Mixer

History of Cement and Cement Mixers

Cement mixers are a way of carrying and mixing cement while you are working to repair a foundation, sidewalk, or building a mold. Cement is mostly known to be made out of asphalt, which stands for secure in the ancient Greek language.

Cement is a mixture of several different types of materials. This includes sand, limestone and asphalt. Asphalt and cement were found to be used beginning in 625 BC in Babylon as well as in Greece. The idea of this secure foundation was lost for centuries, and began to be experimented with beginning in the 1500’s. After much exploration, European’s found that this type of material was being used in Venezuela. They took the idea and began to use cement for re-caulking ships.

Road building using cement became popular in America in the middle of the 1800’s. This was part of the revolution that began with the industrial age. Cement was first taken from natural resources, such as the lakes that were in Trinidad. However, by the beginning of the 1900’s, the mixture for roads and pavement began to be a mixture of several different types of rocks.

Cement mixers first became popular in the 1920’s, when automobiles started to become popular. Mixers were first seen as trays that were heated over coal fires. Aggregate was dried in this tray, than asphalt would be poured on top of it. This mix was then stirred by hand. Drums were soon after invented to be used, and soon wheels were added in order to make it easier for the building of roadways and sidewalks. These were known as floating screeds and were popular until the 1960s.

By the 1970s, these types of construction were becoming a concern with the environment. This caused even better technology to be produced in relation to cement mixers. The mixtures that are being used now have an increased improvement with mixture, allowing for less noise, skid resistance, and weather resistance.

Because of the ability to use the cement mixer in relation to the types of roads and sidewalks that are being built, it is allowing for greater roadways and sidewalks. It has also caused the major modes of transportation to be supported by this type of rock. More than ninety-four percent of the ground that is used for transportation is made out of cement. The cement mixer plays an important role in making sure that this secure surface is made.

Concrete – What to Do About Dusting, Crumbling, Cracks and Discolouration

Concrete is one of the most common materials used in modern construction; the reason for this is that there is no other material that can provide the same results as concrete. The use of concrete for construction provides some great advantages, such as ease of use and strength. When concrete is in it’s liquid form it is very easy to use, but when it dries it provides incredible strength that will last for years. Despite the fact that concrete is a great source of construction material for everything from concrete floors, to building foundations, bridges and tunnels, there could be some problems with the concrete over time. Some issues that may arise include the overall strength of the concrete itself, as well as corrosion due to the concrete being exposed to excessive moisture; in addition, the surrounding soil composition could also cause some problems. Not only could low quality materials and improperly mixed concrete be costly later, but it can also be dangerous if the result diminishes the concrete’s strength. To avoid these problems it is advisable to always use high quality concrete and to stay vigilant for possible problems with the concrete.Some of the most common concrete problems include,

  • Dusting: The surface of the concrete will form a loose powder, which indicates that the surface of the concrete is disintegrating. This can be caused by water bleeding into the concrete during finishing. This may cause the concrete to have a high water ratio, leading to a weakened surface. Additional causes of this concrete problem may include using heaters during a cold weather operation without adequate ventilation, which may cause excessive carbon dioxide, leading to carbonization, or allowing the surface of the concrete to freeze.

  • Flaking & Peeling: The freezing and thawing process of finished concrete often causes flaking and peeling; some of the factors that may contribute to this problem include, not using air-entrained concrete, which is a must to protect the concrete from the affects of freezing and thawing. In addition, if there was too much calcium chloride used as an accelerator, this may also cause a problem with peeling and flaking. Some other situations that may cause concrete to flake and peel include working the surface of the concrete too much, insufficient curing, water bleed, or using deicer.

  • Fine Cracks in the Surface of the Concrete: In some cases the surface layer of concrete may begin to form a network of fine cracks. This problem is often caused when a rapid drying procedure was used, or there was inadequate curing of the concrete. Other contributing factors may include water on the surface during finishing, or the sprinkling of cement on the surface in order to dry the water bleed.

  • Cracking: The most common reason that concrete cracks is due to the expansion and contraction of the concrete without s sufficient means of relieving stress. This could be the result of improper jointing, shrinkage, and settlement. Other contributors to this problem include freezing and thawing, or external restraint, such as flooring.

  • Shrinkage: Another common problem with concrete is cracking due to shrinkage. This may occur when there is a rapid evaporation of the surface before the concrete has set.

  • Reduced Strength of Concrete: This can happen when improper casting, handling and curing procedures are used; additional causes may include high air content, too much water, or an error in the manufacturing of the concrete.

  • Delamination: This is a situation where there is a separation between the top slab and bottom slab that may be caused by a thin layer of water or air. Some situations that may lead to this problem include when air entrained concrete is used for hard finishes, sealing the surface while there is still bleed water present, overworking the surface, or using a polyethylene vapor barrier.

  • Discoloration: Some of the most common causes of concrete discoloration include using calcium chloride to speed set times, changes in the mix proportions or material sources, uneven curing.

  • Curling: When curling occurs, essentially what happens is that there is a distortion of the flat surface into a curved shape. This is frequently the result of a difference in the temperature of the moisture content between the top and bottom of the slab.

  • Uneven or Spotty Setting of Concrete: The most common cause of this problem is not mixing the concrete thoroughly, and the use of some superplasticizers with normal setting or retarding admixtures.

Many of these common concrete problems can be avoided when the proper procedures and materials are used during construction. Concrete admixtures can help to ensure a perfect concrete finish, if they are used correctly. This is why you should always purchase your products from an experienced construction chemicals supplier. Concrete sealant is an important aspect of preserving a concrete finish. These sealants are designed to inhibit liquids from being absorbed by concrete. In addition, this will also help protect the concrete from water erosion or freezing, as well as from substances such as salts and acids. Making mistakes when laying concrete can be very costly; to avoid the added expense of having to repair the concrete at a later time, you should always ensure that you use the best concrete products available, and that you follow the proper procedure for laying concrete.

Do You Have Any Black Pepper For My Radiator?

Awhile back I had a woman traveling through to stop at

the shop.

Her radiator, the one in her car, had a leak.

It was a small leak but she had lost a lot of water, in

the car radiator.

Now, as I’m not a radiator repair shop, and the nearest

one was 20 miles, in the opposite direction, I did what

I do to my old 8N Ford tractor radiator.

I put a small can of black pepper in it. Yeah, I did!

No sugar, salt, or any other ingredients, just black

pepper.

If the hole in a radiator is not too large, black

pepper will stop it up, temporarily, and it’s better

than egg-white. You can store a can of black pepper in

your dash compartment better than you can an egg, and

it will last longer.

Black pepper will not dissolve, deteriorate, or digest.

That’s why I don’t eat it…plus, it burns my mouth. 🙂

I say it is a temporary stop leak tool, but I’ve used

in before and the customer drove his vehicle for over a

year before he sold it.

Go to the grocery store, get one of those 2″ cans,

brand doesn’t matter, and put it in the compartment on

the dash, or the console.

Just don’t use it all up at the drive-in eating

places…keep it until you create a leak in your

radiator.

Chanel Logo Earrings – How & Where To Buy

The much sought-after Chanel Logo Earrings, as with other Chanel brand fashion and perfume products, are famous for the unmistakeable Chanel logo design. This design is formed by an interlocking double-C, one C faces forwards the second faces backwards. The double C originates from the full Chanel name, “Coco Chanel”, although this full name is less commonly used now.

There are many products which bear the famous Chanel mark, for example earrings and jewelry, sunglasses, watches, and fragrances. The Chanel logo design is perfect for their range of earrings in particular. The Chanel logo is itself a work of art, attractive simple and elegant, so why not use it as the focal point of their jewelry range? Unfortunately the range has changed considerably over time and now incorporates earrings and jewelry which is seen by some as “fussy” and overly complicated, relying less on the simple logo. In fact browsing the latest catalogue online there do not appear to be any traditional double-C earrings.

In addition there are many fake Chanel products being sold online, mostly originating from China Vietnam and Thailand, which are designed to trick buyers into thinking they are purchasing original Chanel merchandise. There is a simple way to tell of course – a real new Chanel product cannot be found at discount prices. If you want a new Chanel product keep in mind that you will have to pay full price for that quality. If you are tempted by someone selling supposedly new Chanel Logo Earrings at an impossibly low price, it is very likely they are selling fakes, and you will find later that the quality of the product is not comparable.

However, if you have set your heart on Chanel Logo Earrings then do not despair – there are a number of solutions. One of the joys of the internet is the ability to see products and store catalogues from all across the globe, simply and quickly. Having access to this global market you can always locate Chanel Logo Earrings, Purses and other products which are being sold by their current owners, potentially at significant discounts when compared to new Chanel prices. This also means you may be able to find older designs which you perhaps prefer.

TV Antennas – The Large Old-Style Outdoor Types Will Receive Over-The-Air Digital/HD Signals

Anyone wanting to receive the free over-the-air (OTA) digital/HD TV signals needs to be close enough to the broadcasting towers to receive them well. In doing so, that old VHF/UHF antenna left standing high on the roof, next to the chimney, or in the attic works for receiving these signals.

Almost any TV antenna can receive digital signals.

Today’s newer so-called digital antennas do have select refinements for this kind of reception. However, most of today’s digital/HD signals are in the very-high and ultra-high frequency ranges (VHF/UHF) similar to the way the older analog TV signals were. Thus, an old antenna having these design qualities will work for digital/HD reception, too.

An old antenna having the combined VHF/UHF capability (i.e., the large flat-beam VHF antenna having wide multiple-crossbars plus a V-or-curved shaped UHF reflector with shorter crossbars towards the front end of it) works okay for receiving these digital signals under the right conditions.

Will the TV itself make a difference?

Yes. Even with a necessary converter box hooked up to it, a real old or cheap TV having weak reception capability to start with could have digital reception problems with any antenna.

Our personal reception.

Because we live in a metropolitan area having several digital/HD TV stations, we can receive 22 channels with table-top rabbit-ear antennas. These channels include the main national ones plus several public, creative/food/travel, full-time-older-movie, religious, cartoon/kids, foreign-language, music, and weather ones.

However, some of our older TV’s suffer occasional interference and choppy reception with these particular antennas. Part of this interference can come from within the house itself along with that from varied outside blockages, electrical interferences, and weather conditions.

Recently, we remembered the old unused single-directional VHF/UHF antenna hanging in the attic. We hooked it up to two of our TV’s. Wallah! The result was improved and steadier OTA reception for these two TV’s. This antenna was already pointed eastward toward our main transmission towers 15-miles away.

Tips for this kind of reception set up.

  • An analog-to-digital converter box is needed on the older non-digital TV’s. It also simplifies the channel selection on the newer digital ones.
  • Height counts. Raise or extend the antenna (including the indoor telescopic adjustable rabbit-ear types) as high as possible to strengthen the signal reception. Also, if possible or if allowed, place an old outside antenna high on the house roof or on a tower near it. This high arrangement eliminates most of the common interferences and blockages. Additionally, an upper-level attic could hold a fairly large outdoor antenna with minimum difficulty.
  • Size counts. Many of the older antennas are fairly large, which is okay. These large antennas pick up extra signal and stabilize it. Also, the stacking of two inter-connected antennas on the same mast makes for a larger antenna, if needed.
  • If rabbit-ear types are the only antenna option, try to avoid letting the transmitted signal pass through several layers of room walls.
  • Limit the number of TV’s connected to one antenna. Too many turned on simultaneously will weaken the reception to all of them at once.
  • If in-house interference obviously exists, use the protected coaxial cable to connect the TV in question to the old antenna. These interferences can come from certain inside duck-work, appliances, electronics, and electrical lighting and wiring. However, this cable will not increase the signal strength nor avert physical blockages, like, hills and buildings. If a hookup adapter is needed at the antenna’s split-terminal end, one can be purchased in TV departments for about $6.

In summary, the big old-style VHF/UHF antenna can be used to receive the free over-the-air digital/HD TV signals if it is located high enough off the ground and/or close enough to the transmitting towers to receive them properly. To locate your nearest transmitting towers, and to find more information on TV antennas, see the websites below.

Treatment For Toenail Fungus – What Really Works?

If you look up nail fungus cures on the internet, you will probably find many false hopes such as home remedies and non-prescription drugs that make all sorts of promises. Sadly, in the end most will not get rid of the problem. Nail fungus is not like a disease or bacteria that you can just kill by putting some kind of ointment on it. Actually, it feeds off the bloodstream underneath your nail so this is why it can prove to be a difficult task.

The famous prescribed Lamisil pill does just that but you have to go to the doctor. It goes into your bloodstream, the fungus feeds off it, and eventually it dies. I say eventually because it can take a while, but we will touch on that in a bit. There is also laser removal that you can get done, but you are also going to pay a hefty price for a procedure like this.

With that said, how can you cure the problem without having to go to the doctor and getting a prescription or without having to spend a lot of money? Well, there is a new product out that has been working on around 85% of people who have used it. It also works through the bloodstream and also comes with an ointment that helps the process go a little quicker. Now, if you don’t know anything about a treatment for toenail fungus then let me enlighten you a bit on how and why it can take a while.

It can take up to a full year for a new nail to completely grow. What happens is when you take Lamisil, or this new product, it will take a week or so to get into your system and it will prevent the fungus from staying alive. The end result is the fungus goes away after you grow a whole new toenail. Now, does this take a year? No, normally it takes around 5 to 6 months. This is true with the new product and with the prescribed medication.

I said eventually earlier because it is a process that definitely takes some time no matter what route you go. The main point is that this product has been proven to work on most people and you can read the reviews yourself if you like. Though instead of taking a pill, it comes with a spray that you spray underneath your tongue daily and a ointment to help the process work a little faster so that you will not have to endure it for over 6 months.

Greece – Cycladic Architecture

Cycladic architecture is famous for its uniqueness and charm. In fact, the rapid growth of tourism over recent years has extended its reputation well beyond the borders of Greece. When you visit a Cycladic town or village for the first time, you may have the feeling that you are inside an enchanting stage set.

The early Cycladic builders worked in the same simple yet daring style that distinguished the artists who created Cycladic idols some 5,000 years ago. With the authentic and untainted instinct of folk artists, these craftsmen constructed buildings that were adapted not only to the everyday needs of the inhabitants, but also to the beauty and grace of the Cycladic landscape.

One rarely comes across public squares in Cycladic villages. Public spaces in settlements are, as a rule, quite small. The common area is usually the street, with its exceptionally well-balanced building facades.

The street is characteristically paved with whitewash-outlined polygonal or rectangular flagstones. The pattern of the flagstones is usually adapted to fit along the outsides of the buildings, which are of two main styles: narrow-facade (“stenometopo”) and broad-facade (“evrymetopo”). Buildings in the same cluster or on the same block are most likely to be in the same style, with similar features. Therefore, a row of narrow-facade houses will have approximately the same dimensions and the same design. The houses usually have two storeys, with an outside staircase that allows separate access to the upper storey from the street.

The outside staircase exists regardless of whether the house is used as a single-family dwelling or two separate families individually own the ground floor and upper storey.

Separate ownership of individual floors is a popular tradition in the Cyclades, dating centuries back. It apparently started because of the lack of space within the fortified settlements that were built in the latter part of the 14th century when the islands first became settlements. Later, however, separate-storey ownership continued even after the pirate incursions had abated (mostly following the Battle of Lepanto in 1571), with the settlements then able to spread beyond the walls. Although the main reason for this is that it served the institution of the dowry, separate-storey ownership satisfied other needs as well, In Mykonos, for example, peasants who went to Hora (the Town) to sell their wares and do their marketing wanted storage spaces and rudimentary shelter. So, they purchased these ground floors from the locals.

The exteriors of Cycladic buildings are simple and unembellished, whitewashed, with only a few windows and a particular type of roof, which comes in three variations: vaulted, inclined, or pitched. For the most part, Cycladic houses resemble connected stark-white cubes.

Perched on cliff-sides, with an economy of space ensured by native ingenuity, these single or two-storeyed houses blend with church facades, fountains, windmills (where they exist) and dovecotes to compose pictures seen nowhere else in the world.

Buildings that form a compact mass, irregularly aligned houses, an economic use of curves, and walls that subtly slant out towards the ground to give the impression that the building is growing out of the island’s stark rocky ground, flagstone stairs rimmed in white to diminish their weight. When you add the painted doors (typically, the cobalt blue of the sea), windows and balconies, which contrast the stark white houses, you have the complete picture of Cycladic architecture.

But this is only the general picture. Each island has its own unique characteristics, determined by its history and topography, as well as by how the local materials have been utilized.

The interior of the houses is also similar, with only minor variations from island to island. The inside space is divided into two unequal sections by a kind of platform, 1-2 meters high and up to 3 meters wide, extending either the length or width of the house. This platform is called, alternately, “krevatos” (bed), “kraatos” or “sofas” (couch) depending on the locale. The furnishings, which are impressive for their aesthetics refinement and usefulness, are in total harmony with the decoration and architecture of the house. The interior decor consists of small cabinets, the “stamnos” (water jug) stand, trunks to store clothing, wardrobes, icon stands, wooden-carved chests, as well as a variety of furniture built into the walls.

This is often combined with pebble-paved front yards (particularly on Milos and Paros, as well as other islands), which add particular grace to the otherwise stark but always harmonious constructions of Aegean island vernacular architecture.

Why Do My Feet Hurt – Where Is My Foot Pain Coming From?

Foot pain can be caused by a variety of ailments depending on your lifestyle and the type of care you take of your feet. Caring for your feet also includes wearing footwear that fits you properly and has some kind of support. Unfortunately, some of the more “comfortable shoes” are often the culprits in making your feet hurt.

Shoes like high heels that are too narrow at the toes can squish your metatarsal bones together and create problems. Sandals and other flat surface shoes like slippers and sheepskin boots can cause flat feet after time, because your feet are adaptive. They will, over time, mold themselves into the position you put them into. Flat surface shoes may lead to flat feet.

Here is a list of some of the more common things that can hurt your feet, and how arch supports can help.

Metatarsal & Nerve Problems

Metatarsal problems occur when the foot is absorbing too much of the shock waves created by the body while walking and when the body is out of proper alignment. Nerves can then be pinch and inflamed due to the body trying to compensate. Arch supports support the foot, lift the arch and hold it in an ideal foot position.

Bunions

Bunions are the bump on the side of the big toe that is usually a swollen bursal sac or a bony deformity growing off of the toe joint. Arch supports help by support the ball of the foot and allow the toes to spread out naturally, which can relieve the pain from bunions.

Hammertoes

Hammertoes are the result of an imbalanced foot. The toes try to overcompensate for the lack of balance and grip the floor in order to balance the body. The toes then develop a bend in the second joint making the toe look like a hammer. Arch supports hold the feet in their natural position, dispersing your body weight properly, which allows the toes to spread out naturally and relax.

Neuromas

Neuromas in the foot refer to the thickening of the nerves between the third and fourth toes. Tingling, numbness and sharp pains have been reported by sufferers. Women often complain of these due to their high heels compressing the metatarsals (toes).

Pronation & Supination

Pronation occurs when the foot turns inward too much and the joints become loose. Supination is when the foot turns outward too much and becomes stiff and unable to act as a shock for the body. Personally sized arch supports cradle your feet and hold the foot in its most ideal position, keeping it from rolling too far either way

Plantar Fasciitis

Plantar Fasciitis occurs when the planter fascia (fiberous tendon along the underside of the foot) become torn, irritated or inflamed. It is very common to feel a sharp pain in the back of the foot on your first step in the morning. Arch Supports can help by holding and supporting the foot in its most ideal position, dispersing your body weight properly throughout your feet.

Hopefully, I’ve answered the “Why do my feet hurt?” question, with the added benefit of explaining how personally fit arch supports can alleviate a lot of the causes of foot pain.

The Building Life Cycle – Construction

This is the phase that is very synonymous with the construction industry. It involves the casting of the project design on the ground, forming a tangible and usable product. There are various activities involved in this phase, all of which are guided by the type of construction work at hand. A good example is the construction of a golf course against the construction of a commercial complex. These two will have very different activities and will also involve different sorts of people.

Construction is in itself a very unique activity, with every project having its own unique features, including;

· A set of professionals dealing with issues of design and administration of the project from start to finish.

· A contractor or group of specialist contractors charged with the responsibility of putting up the project to its desired state.

· Different material combination’s to come up with a unique design of the project in question.

· A unique site, usually not worked on before and presenting unique challenges.

· A new, usually one-off client, whether in the form of an individual or group of people.

All these make the construction process very unique and needing enough attention from all those that will be charged with the various duties of putting up the project to completion. It is common to have consultative meetings during this phase, to appraise what is on drawing against what is on the ground and what was actually envisaged. Whenever there is a dispute between these items, a compromise is sought and the right adjustment done.

The construction phase is very significant in the fact that it determines the character of the finished product (unless of course there is an omission at the design stage). How well the various components are put together will determine how practicable the product will be in handling its mandate. Quality is key at this point. This is because the products of construction are usually long-term and will as such need to give the required longevity.

Along the same lines, it is important to note that the particular needs of the finished product as envisaged will be satisfied during the construction period. A good example here is strength. This is usually a factor of detailing and if followed to the letter, it leads to the attainment of the required and as such, the right product. This will ensure proper performance during the lifetime of the product. Proper performance means adequacy and as such, leads to a reasonable lifetime with minimal restoration requirements.

SEO – Link Building for Beginners

Search Engine Optimisation has two distinct area’s the first being On-page optimisation and the second, off-page optimisation. On-page optimisation is what you can actually do to your website that will affect your ranking on the search engines. This includes changing your title tags, H1 Tags etc. Search Engine Optimisation (SEO) like anything else adheres to the 80/20 rule, whereby on-page optimisation accounts for 20% of search engine rankings.

The other 80% comes from link building, which is by far the hardest part when it comes to SEO. Link building is getting other sites to link back to your own website. Like everything else in the world, links have varying degrees of quality, you get really poor quality links which can actually harm your website or you can get excellent links which will help your rankings tremendously. Obviously, the best quality links are the hardest to obtain. For your information, the best kind of links to get, are links that come from Universities or Government websites. Search Engines love these links and if you do manage to get one your website will almost certainly help get your website on to the first page within a couple of months.

The worst types of links are backlinks that come from Porn Sites, Pharma Sites or Gambling Sites.

I will list the ways in which a person can obtain links for their website.

1) Buy Links – The better the link, the more expensive they are.

2) Ask For Links – Either via Phone or Email.

3) Link Exchanges – Swap Links with other webmasters.

4) Register with Directories – Register your site with a number of directories.

5) Write Articles – Submit your articles to article directories like Ezine.

6) Write Press Releases – Submit to sites like PRweb.

7) Use Viral marketing techniques – Use sites like pay per post (link baiting).

I would suggest doing all of the above when you first start trying to do SEO on your own site. A good mix of links is always good, try not to buy too many “cheap & cheerful” links as these will not do your site much good.

Control House Centipedes, 5 Facts You Need to Know About Centipedes!

Centipedes move into your home because they like the environment. And the only way to get rid of them is to change the environment so that it’s not longer centipede friendly.

But that can seem very hard to do!

Are you wondering what makes my house so centipede friendly? Well these 5 facts about centipedes will help you to understand why they are coming into your house.

One: Centipedes like water. In fact they like it and need it more than other bugs, so if you have centipedes in your home that means there is at least one spot in the house where they are getting access to moisture.

Two: Centipedes leave eggs in your house. They leave between 60 and 120 of them per centipede; this means that killing just the centipede you see will have a limited affect on them.

Three: In the wild centipedes live in moist areas, like long grass, rotting wood and under rocks. If you have these in your yard, or worse, right up next to the house, then it is much more likely that the centipedes will find their way into your home.

Four: Pesticides and Boric Acid won’t get rid of them entirely. The reason is that once the pesticide or the Boric Acid wears off, if you haven’t made your home inhospitable to them the will come right back.

Five: Centipedes are predators. That’s right they eat the other bugs in your home. So reducing or eliminating other pest infections will remove their food source and help get them out of your house.