Why You Should Hire a House Painter

Painting your house yourself might seem like a good idea to begin with but often times you’ll end up regretting it because you underestimate the amount of work and money that it involves. You may want to hire a professional house painter.

The mess of painting, touch ups, cleaning brushes, proper preparation of the area to be painted, moving furniture, drop clothes, masking, taping all while trying to work and live your life in a house in shambles, painting your house yourself could take awhile.

You’ll want to assess the size of the painting job. If you’re just painting one room in your house then it might be a good idea to do it yourself, if you’re looking to paint the entire exterior of your house it might be a better idea if you let a professional handle it. You’ll especially want to hire a professional house painter for painting areas like ceilings or high walls or areas that require scaffolding.

Another aspect you might want to consider is the cost of all the supplies you’ll need to paint your house. The cost of rollers, brushes, paint pans, ladders, tape, drop cloths, etc. can add up, if the area to be painted is a large one it may be cheaper just to hire a professional, they provide and use all their own supplies (your paint cost should be included in your quote).

A professional house painter will know which paint brand to choose, which will last the longest, which has the best finish, how many coats of paint the area will need and any special preparation needed.

Prepping the surfaces that need to be painted tends to be a lot of work, if you skip this part of the process your new paint job won’t look as good and won’t last as long. This is especially true when painting the exterior of an older house. Scraping off the old paint and preparing the area to be painted can be messy and time consuming, would you know what to do if the scraped paint had lead in it?Professional painters are better equipped to handle potential hazards and have experience dealing with these types of things, it’s what they deal with on a daily basis.

A professional house painter will finish the job in a timely manner, what could take you a week or three could take them a couple of days. They also know how to handle most painting situations without blinking an eye and what you might overlook will probably be something they automatically do (ie, masking off whole windows for overspray, etc). Where you might use rollers and brushes a professional painter will use a paint sprayer, saving time which in turn saves you money and saves you the hassle of renting and learning how to a use paint sprayer.

Most people have been to houses where a professional wasn’t hired, there is paint on the windows, ceilings and drip marks on window sills, this is all too common and looks sloppy. Hiring a professional eliminates a lot of the hassle and mess of painting your house.

Your professional house painter will know what is required to complete the job to your standards taking into consideration safety and proper preparation while doing the job faster than you could yourself.

Closing The Gap In Passenger Lift And Platform Lift Design

The passenger lift has now been around officially for an incredible 150 years. Although the first actual reference to a passenger lift is dated back as far as 236 B.C. by a Roman architect named Vitruvius, who give an account that Archimedes built one.

Throughout the history of man, there has been mention of passenger lifts, using hemp rope and wood, powered by animals or by hand; going back as far as the Egyptian times. However, the first safe and modern passenger lift was first installed in the mid-19th Century (March 23rd 1857), 488 Broadway, New York by the company Otis, which still stands as the starting point of the passenger lift.

In the modern world, this ingenious invention remains fairly unnoticed, as with a lot of things in our culture that become the norm and we take for granted. Conversely, without them the skyline we know would look very different, without the aid of high rise ‘elevator’ buildings. Passenger lifts are now expected in all types of public buildings to enable its users to gain access – but does this include the disability impaired?

Architects have been mostly appreciative for passenger lifts because it has meant they have been able to build upwards. It is only since the Disability Discrimination Act (DDA) was passed, making sure public buildings have access for all, that lifts are also used for the disability impaired. As many of the older and smaller public buildings don’t have passenger lifts in them, it means they have to be introduced, causing architectural, logistic and financial headaches by modifying existing access arrangements.

The other issue that hampers progress is that disability access products are seen as unsightly and not stylish in their appearance. The title of ‘platform lift’ has connotations attached to it too, as they are often thought of as aesthetically displeasing or having a functionally similar to those lifting goods.

Public buildings certainly have been reluctant to facilitate the introduction of platform lifts, partly due the aesthetic side of things and due to the logistics of whether the building is suitable for the modifications needed. The DDA was put into action in 2004, and only 15 per cent of England has officially got disabled access; this is a long way off the 100% disabled access objective by 2005.

The good news is that in an age where aesthetics mean a lot, the design and manufacturing of our products cater for this significantly. The modern day platform lifts are able to overcome many architectural hurdles whatever the size, age, orientation and scope of the building. Also, contrary to belief, the design of platform lifts has progressed and they have literally ‘broken through the glass ceiling’ in their aesthetic quality and precision engineering. Following on from passenger lifts, platform lifts now present the same functionality and sophisticated designs that blend harmoniously in with both contemporary and traditional environments.

One of the more popular solutions in terms of subtleness is the freestanding platform lift and reach up to 13 meters. They come with their own shaft, with a very small pit size (around 50mm), meaning disruptive building work is kept to a minimum and can be installed very quickly. Glazed or 1 hour fire rated shaft can be erected by simply cutting a 50mm pit in the floor with a 3- or single- phase power supply. This type of platform lift doesn’t even require wall fixings and means the foundations of the building doesn’t need to be dug in to reducing labour costs and disruption to businesses.

Nottingham Forest FC’s ground, The City Ground is a good example where a freestanding platform lift has been used to achieve disabled access for its hospitality suites. As it is one of the premier venues in the East Midlands for banqueting and conferencing facilities, it was vital the ground provided equal access for all members of the public. When the lift wasn’t implemented, disabled people actually had to be lifted up the stairs, which is not a long term solution! The platform lift is now accessible from the foyer area and the contemporary glass fronted doors are in keeping with the modern interior of the stadium and create a light, non-claustrophobic atmosphere for its users.

Freestanding platform lifts can even be used in listed buildings, which in the past have caused the most problems for those who are mobility impaired visitors, without compromising the architecture found there, which English Heritage keep a close eye on. A good example of where there has been success in these types of buildings is the Hugo Boss store in Sloane Square, London, which is a listed building. It now offers a bespoke lift mirroring the company’s image and also being receptive to the building’s heritage.

Another example is Butts Dental Practice, which is located in The Butts conservation area and is renowned for its grand 18th century Grade II listed buildings and historical value. Disabled access has also been created, so the basement is now accessible, use a screw and nut system. To keep the lift looking part of the existing architecture of the building, the platform lift was finished in black to complement the black balustrades on the wall. Its open design, which uses large glass safety panels and solid stainless steel details, provided a stylish and elegant look which complimented the distinct gothic appearance of this Victorian property.

These examples show that the line between platform lifts and passenger lifts is getting closer as the gap is closing with innovative design and practical, yet aesthetically pleasing solutions. Whereas passenger lifts have traditionally been accepted and have become architecturally significant through their design and functionality, platform lifts are following suit.

Which Flooring Types Are Safe and Non-Toxic For Your Home?

There are so many flooring types from which to choose – and fortunately, many of them available today would classify as “green” – meaning non-toxic and a wise use of resources. But with such vast selection comes the need to make a decision – and it can be hard to wade through all of those choices and pick the best option for you and your situation – unless you know more about the pros and cons of each choice.

We’ll talk here about the wise array of flooring types available to you – and you can feel more confident making your final decision after you have some solid research available at your fingertips.

In the hardwood flooring arena, you have various types of hardwood, and you can opt for either finished or unfinished wood. Unfinished wood is then installed and sealed on site. In addition to the purchase of new wood, many people are looking into reclaimed wood – to re-use a natural resource and add a sense of beauty and age at the same time. Have you heard of bamboo hardwood flooring? It is becoming more popular today. Bamboo is actually a fast-growing grass, is highly sustainable, and is said to be harder than actual wood. The manufacturing process is critical though, so be certain to do your “due diligence” on the company that is selling it.

Cork flooring is also making a comeback! Although it has a wood-type look, it is soft, resilient, and absorbs sound in a room, making it easy on the back and knees, and offering a bit of soundproofing as well. Cork also comes in tiles, and can be found in differing shades of color.

What about carpet? Although traditional carpet is replete with chemicals, there is now “green” carpeting available – non-toxic choices in various textures and styles. It is deserving of a closer look if you love the feel of carpet under your feet, but don’t want

the toxic air resulting from your typical brands.

Then there is laminate flooring – a kind of plastic feel with more of a wood-like look. Laminate flooring is cheaper than wood – but the resale value is likely to be less as well.

Linoleum flooring is making a comeback – and with natural linoleum being not only non-toxic but long lasting as well (some call it the “20 year floor”), it’s popularity is not likely to go away any time soon. Available in various shades of marbling, and in tiles as well, the options for creative design in various rooms in your home are beyond description!

Stone flooring comes in many shapes and with numerous options – from travertine and marble, to all kinds of tiles. Although there isn’t really much “give” to a stone floor, its beauty and value offer wide appeal to many people – even if it is used only in the bathrooms, kitchen, or in limited areas throughout the home.

Vinyl flooring is one of the least expensive options, but is filled with chemicals and plasticizers – not exactly your best choice in terms of health.

There you have it – an overview of many of the flooring options available to you.

Enjoy your research and your final selection of a new flooring option for your home.

What’s the Difference? (Linoleum Vs Vinyl)

So many people mistakenly think that linoleum and vinyl are the same thing. This couldn’t be further from the truth. And if you’re interested in installed resilient flooring in your home you need to know the difference.

Linoleum Flooring

Linoleum was the original resilient flooring invented in 1860 by an Englishman named Frederick Walton. In fact it was invented quite by accident when he discovered that dried linseed oil formed a strong yet flexible film on the top of the paint can. Paints used to be made with linseed oil in the mid-19th century.

After years of experimenting he came up with a thin, and strong product that was also comfortable under foot. Linoleum’s make-up has changed very little over the years. And due to that it is still one of the most natural and Eco-friendly products on the market today. In addition to linseed oil the other main ingredients are things like pine rosin, cork dust, and a canvas or juke backing. In fact it’s so green that it contributes LEED (a measurement of sustainable building) points to your building.

Some of the key benefits of linoleum are: natural antimicrobial and antistatic properties, hypoallergenic, fire retardant, and very strong wear resistance. The colors and patterns of linoleum are more limited than vinyl, but unlike vinyl the color runs throughout the entire body of the linoleum. Vinyl only has a thin wear layer of color that can wear out under heavy traffic.

Vinyl Flooring

Vinyl flooring was first offered to the public in 1933 and in the tough times of the Great Depression it’s low price point made it a major competitor of linoleum. It was available in more colors and printed patterns than linoleum. Both materials are sold in either 10-13″ tiles or large sheets that are cut to size for your particular room much the same way as wall to wall carpeting.

The biggest difference between vinyl and linoleum really is their chemistry. Whereas linoleum is an all-natural product vinyl is a product of fossil fuels. Vinyl is mainly a combination of Ethylene (a petroleum byproduct) and chlorine which adds stability and give vinyl its excellent heat resistance. Also, some vinyl made prior to the 1980s may contain asbestos. So, it’s best to call an asbestos abatement specialist if you have old vinyl in your home and are thinking of disturbing or replacing it.

Vinyl is also king when it come to variety of colors and price, though linoleum isn’t much more expensive, the price difference is noticeable in large quantities.

Which is Right

Which is right for you is really a matter of personal opinion. My preference is linoleum because of its eco-friendly qualities and longevity, but the low price and color variety of vinyl can’t be ignored. Whatever you decide it’s just good to know that the two are indeed different and that you now have a choice.

How to Transport Ladders, Safely and Legally

One of the difficulties many people face with ladders is transporting them about from A to B. Due to their need to be long, ladders can be tricky to transport, and some people often take risks in transporting ladders which can be dangerous and illegal.

Different types of ladder are different lengths and so depending on the type you are transporting will also depend on the type of transport required.

Extension ladders for instance are quite long and are usually transported on roofs of vehicles. Most people who transport extensions use a van, this is because it is ling enough the ladder can be strapped on top and doesn’t protrude over the van’s length.

This is important as a protruding ladder is not only dangerous, especially if somebody runs into you where it can cause serious injury, it is also illegal.

While extensions by their very nature extend, its important that when collapsed it doesn’t extend the length of the vehicle, if it does you should get a shorter ladder, or use a longer vehicle. Some smaller extension ladders can actually be fastened on the roof of long wheelbase cars such as an estate but they should also be strapped securely, an insecure ladder is a potential missile if you have to stop suddenly, again the potential for causing serious injury is very real.

Step ladders are a lot easier to transport than extensions as they are shorter. They can be moved about inside vans which removes the worry of having to secure it on the roof. With the seats down, many steps can be transported in cars too, but they should be secure as again, sudden braking could see the ladder shoot forward, injuring drivers, passengers or other road users if it goes through the windscreen.

For those requiring only a shorter ladder, a surveyor’s ladder is perhaps the best solution. Surveyor’s ladders can be collapsed to a small size and can easily fit into the boot of most cars. These are ideal for people that don’t need to work on height too high and as they are placed in the boot there is no need for them to be strapped down.

When transporting any ladder it is important to ensure you have the correct vehicle, or correct ladder for the vehicle you are using, otherwise you may find yourself in trouble with the law, or worse.

Changing Carpet Stairs To Wood – Do I Rebuild Or Reface?

Carpeted stairs are passé. Hardwood stairs are the way to go, but is it possible to replace carpet on stairs with wood, without destroying the house, living under the mess of a construction site for months on end or selling your only child to the bank? Absolutely, as long as you can answer yes to two questions!

Tearing the house apart to redo your stairs just doesn’t make sense. Besides to build a standard set of hardwood stairs probably costs four times more that taking your existing stairs and changing carpet stairs to hardwood steps, in a wood species to compliment the balance of your home decorating. It is not unusual to save thousand of dollars. So what do you need to answer first?

Question number one: Are your existing stairs structurally sound? In other words if I were to remove the carpet and add a few (or a lot) of screws to the existing structure would they meet the existing building code and NOT squeak in daily use. If this isn’t the case then give up and start from scratch before you waste any more money!

Question number two: Are you happy with the overall layout of your steps? Are they a suitable size, rising enough on each step to be safe and offering enough depth for you to comfortably plant your foot? Many do-it-yourselfer’s and even those in the trade, have trouble with the math used in constructing steps. They often think that when you get to the point of wanting to replace carpet on stairs with wood, that you can also play with the overall layout by adding width to an existing set of treads. They think that if they build up the front of the stair under the nosing it will give them a longer run. They forget that if you do this to every step it kind of cancels each other out, so your layout must be acceptable as is.

Thus, if you are happy with your existing “rise and run,” then you are in the ideal position to recover these stairs. Hardwood of any species can be used for the job, thus here is a list of steps for changing carpet stairs to wood.

Step #1: Remove the carpet, tacker strips and/or any residual glue. Don’t worry if the wood gets gouged in the process.

Step #2: Cut off the existing nosing of the construction stairs on both the front and if you have an open end, there too.

Step #3: Remove and store any spindles that may be drilled into the stairs. Leave the newel posts in place. You can work around them, unless of course your intent is to have a new railing as well.

Step #4: Use a matching hardwood veneered plywood to face the back riser and stringer. No point in using solid hardwood here as it doesn’t take any wear in this location and solids are much harder to work with.

Step #5: Glue down solid hardwood plank stairs to the face of your old treads, using construction glue. Glue that is in a caulking tube is the easiest to apply, otherwise use a small notched trowel to spread, especially when applying it to the ¼” plywood or bulges will be obvious.

Step #6: Replace your spindles and trim any corners with appropriate mouldings to hide seams between the plywood used for the riser and that used for the stringer.

Further: It is best to pre-finish all the plywood and treads before you install. Polyurethanes typically take 48 hours to come to full strength so it can tie up your steps for a bit of time if you chose to do the finishing on site. Besides it is easier to avoid runs if everything can be finished while on the flat.

For further information on replacing stair treads, changing carpet stairs to wood visit our website: http://www.woodsthebest.com Lots of information on how to order custom made hardwood steps in the size, shape and wood species that you really want plus all the tips on how to install like a seasoned pro. After all precision woodworking is all in the details.

Dangers Using Wood Stair Cleats – New Stair Construction

I would imagine most people don’t even know what it wood stair cleat is, in construction we have so many words that describe the same thing. A stair cleat is another word for a thread bracket. In other words it’s the part of the stairway that connects the stair stringer to the stair step. These have been used for years and over time, most of them will develop the same problem.

Most wood stair cleats loosened up and create a safety hazard. If the stairs are located outside in extreme weather conditions, for example, if it rains or snows a lot, extremely humid humid weather, or extremely hot and dry temperatures, your staircase might not last that long, if it is or isn’t maintained properly. It’s not a bad idea to use steel or concrete for stairways in these climates.

If you’re ever walking up a set of stairs with wood cleats and the stair steps feel a little loose or wiggly, make sure you examined the stair cleats for safety. It’s not uncommon for someone to be walking up or down a set of wood stairs and having the stair step or tread giveaway because the wood cleats has loosened.

If the wood stair cleats are nailed to the stair stringer, the nails can loosen up, causing it to become loose, as you walk up and down the stairs applying pressure to the stair cleat, this will create movement in between the stair step and the stair stringer. This could cause the cleat to crack, break and separate the connection between the stair step in the stair stringer.

I would suggest using metal brackets instead of wood cleats. The metal brackets will not crack or disintegrate like some wood cleats. Stair building brackets of course can loosen up and should be maintained regularly.

If you decide to use wood stair cleats, I would suggest using screws instead of nails and drilling holes in the wood stair cleats, most of the time this will prevent cracking the cleat. Try to use a thicker material for the stair cleat, for example using a 2 x 4 with lag screws and washers would be better than using a 1 x 4 with nails.

If you’re walking up a set of stairs and a stair step feels loose, contact the owner of the property and let them know, they have a problem with their staircase.

The 3 Main Types of Scaffolding and What They Are Used For

If you’re in the construction field or are into any type of larger home improvements, then you will most likely need some sort of scaffolding set up at some point in your life. But that is certainly not the only reasons you would need scaffolding. There are many types of scaffolding. These consist of three main categories; suspended, supported, and aerial. After reading this informative article you will have a more in depth awareness of these three types of scaffolding.

Let’s discuss further what all these three types of scaffolding involve. Suspended scaffolding is when the scaffold is securely suspended by rope from the roof or top of a house or building. Suspended scaffolding is compiled of pulleys, levers, and switches. These allow you to lower yourself from the top of the building back to the bottom and vise versa.

The next sort of scaffolding is known as supported scaffolding. This type is one that is built from the ground upwards. It consists of lumber and poles to make a framed scaffold. You climb up a ladder to mount this type and work from the middle length of the scaffold called a platform. Supported scaffolding is one of the only types of scaffolding that allows you to either be grounded on supports or completely mobile if wheels are attached to the bottom of the supports.

The last category we’re going to become more acquainted with is called aerial lifts. Aerial lifts are actually mounted devices that have the capability to be lifted to other elevations and locations. This is so helpful to workers when they have a need for the scaffolding to be lifted to a completely different location. However, for this to be accomplished, this is one of the types of scaffolding that requires shackles to prevent them from being accidentally disengaged from the hook carrying the lift.

Now that you have read through this guide you have a better understanding of what you need when sorting through different types of scaffolding. If you’re washing windows on a tall fifty story building then it’s probably best to use some sort of suspended scaffolding set up. On the other hand, if you intend on constructing a house then it’s in your best interest to utilize the supported ground scaffolding. And if you need a source for moving the scaffold in the air then it’s recommended that you go with the aerial approach.

Pros and Cons of Different Types of Timber, Laminate and Bamboo Flooring

(1) Laminate Floors

Laminate floors can be the cheapest option. Made from HDF with a paper decorative layer, a wear layer and a backing layer. Laminate floors have improved vastly in the last few years.


* Scratch resistant

* Hard to deep scratch

* Fade resistant

* Hard to dent

* Click together and are relatively easy to install DIY

* Quick to install

* Damaged boards can be replaced

* Easy to remove when renovating


* As they are laid floating they can sound hollow when walked on in hard shoes (this can be

minimised with a good underlay)

* Do not look as good as real wood

* The joints can swell if water is left over their joints too long (this can be minimised by

purchasing boards with waxed edges)

(2) Engineered Floors

Made from 3 ply or multi ply with the top layer a pre-finished wood veneer. Usually cheaper than solid wood but more expensive than laminate.


* They are more stable than wood and resistant to cupping

* Quick to install

* Can be laid floating or stuck down

* Can be installed DIY

* Floating boards with click system can be replaced

* Look more natural than laminates

* Some can be re-sanded a few times

* When laid floating easy to remove when renovating


* When laid floating they can sound hollow when walked on in hard shoes

* Very easy to dent

* Some wood species are susceptible to high heel marks

* Have little resistance to deep scratches

* Will damage with excess moisture

* Can fade in sunlight

(3) Strand woven bamboo

The newest type of bamboo flooring.


* Hard to dent

* Hard to deep scratch

* Can be laid floating or directly stuck


* May not be able to be re-sanded

* Can cup if exposed to moisture

(4) Bamboo vertical/horizontal

The original type of bamboo flooring usually directly stuck.


* Pre-finished

* Can be re-sanded

* Does not sound hollow when walked on


* Will dent easily

* Will deep scratch easily

* Cannot easily replace boards

* Susceptible to high heel marks

* Expensive to remove if renovating

* May cup if exposed to moisture

(5) Solid wood

Probably the most expensive option as all the labour is done on site, not at a factory.


* Can be re-finished

* Deep scratches and dents can be sanded out

* Solid underfoot


* Cost

* Will dent

* Will deep scratch

* Boards may cup

* Can fade in sunlight

* Some species are susceptible to high heel marks

* Expensive to remove if renovating or water damaged

Spray Guns and Spraying For Lacquer

Dirt is the biggest bugbear of spraying. Nozzles, tubes and liquids should be spotless; soak the parts in thinners and strain your lacquers through a single thickness of nylon stocking. Having carefully prepared your surface, damp all dust and sweep up thoroughly, then disturb it no more.

Practise spraying on a large piece of flat panel until you have a flat fan of spray, which will coat an area 35-45cm (15-18in.) wide with the gun held 20-30cm (8-12in.) from the surface at 90° to it. It is easier to spray a vertical surface than a horizontal one. Wait a minute to see the effect on your test surface, because lacquer takes some time to run if it is going to. Thin it 10 per cent and get the right consistency by timing it through a viscosity cup. The liquid should flow in a continuous stream off the end of a stick held at 45°.

Spraying techniques are illustrated opposite. Never trigger or stop the gun while it is pointing at the surface. Start the spray, and stop it, off the panel at the beginning and end of your strokes. Do internal corners in one smooth movement; external corners should have one stroke each side and one at a 45° angle.

Pre-catalysed lacquers can be de-nibbed with 600 grit wet and dry paper and water, wiped and tack-ragged after 45-60 minutes, and are then ready for recoating. Acid-catalysed lacquers take longer, about three hours on average. Final coats should be steel wool and waxed, or rubbed with burnishing cream.

Damp in the air causes a milky bloom as the lacquer dries. Burnish it with abrasive cream or paste, or if that does not work strip and refinish. Spray will pick up moisture in a cold damp atmosphere and take it to the surface, where it mixes with the lacquer, causing pits and craters in the finish, with the same white bloom. The air must be dry and warm, but if it is too hot it will dry the lacquer too quickly.

Always clean the gun as if it was a surgical instrument. Dismantle it, soak all the parts in thinners and blow thinners through the gun until there is not a trace of lacquer in the spray.

Finally, take elaborate safety precautions. Fine spray vapours are highly volatile, and extremely unpleasant to inhale; always wear a face mask, have a good extraction system, or do the work outside. Just having the windows open is not nearly enough.

Sledge Hammer – Great for Demolition Jobs

A sledge-hammer is as heavy long-handled hammer used or driving pins, stakes, wedges. Their design includes a double-sided head. This tool is typically used for tasks that require more brute force that’s why it needs to be heavy. They commonly weigh at 8-16 pounds but they can be as much as 20 pounds. The handle of the hammer is usually made of wood or fiberglass and they are noticeably longer than that of a typical hammer. The head is typically made of heavy metal.

The sledge-hammer is not designed for light duty tasks. It is designed to displace a large amount of force over a condensed area. This was made possible by the heavy head and the long handle. It takes some strength for a person to fully wield the sledgehammer, but this action results for larger impacts.

For a number of years now, sledge hammers have been used in the construction industry. This tool has been used to drive railroad spikes when railroads were being built. This is due to the fact that sledge hammers can withstand reinforced steel. Jobs that require fracturing concrete is a cinch with the use a this tool. You can also split large rocks and pieces of wood with this tool

Blacksmiths often use sledge hammers to shape pieces of metal works. In the year of 1980, the British SAS counter terrorist also used these hammers to gain access to rooms during the siege of Iranian embassy

Smaller sledge-hammers are also available for medium tasks. Since the use of this tool can be dangerous, it is encouraged that safety precautions should be implemented. Eye-protection such as goggles should be used to avoid splinters from damaging our eyes. Check the hammer for defects and breaks. Do not use if there are bystanders. Make sure to hold the tool with both hands. It is better to deliver short blows to the target area and then gradually increase the force and length of your strokes.

Choosing the Best Metal Roof for Your House

Metal roof is the best choice for houses that are situated in places which experience heavy snowfall. The metal roof does not allow the snow to settle down on it and it slides down easily. Thus it prevents roof damage or collapse due to the weight of snow. It is also suitable in many other situations. So in case you are considering getting a metal roof for your home then, you need to know many things about a metal roof before deciding to install it.

Modern looking metal roofs come in wide array of shapes, styles and colors. It is important for you to be acquainted and familiar with the different varieties available in the market. In such case you will easily be able to choose the best possible metal roof for your home.

To start with, let us discuss the type of metal used in the metal roof. Though the most common type of metal used is steel but you can also opt for other variations. Metals roofs are available in aluminum, stainless steel, copper and many other alloys of metals. Amongst these options, copper, stainless steel and meal alloys are quite expensive. But people still seem to prefer them because they are have a very natural look, have high durability and resistant to dents and scratches. You have a lot of options in terms of cost, materials and looks. So keep your budget in mind when you want to determine what kind of material you are choosing and how it should look.

Metal Roof

You can also opt for multiple choices when it comes to materials of the roof. As for example you can choose the whole metal roof to be of one material and choose another one for decorating the edges or highlights and other decorative stuff. In this way you can incorporate different types of materials in your metal roof.

Another thing to consider is the process by which your chosen metal is manufactured. There are different varieties available in the market. You can opt for single large sheet metal materials or individual pieces of material need to be placed and secured individually. You can also go for massive sheets of shingle style materials. Each of these types of materials is unique and distinct and will create a different look as well as feel. Amongst the various options found, sheets of shingles and metal sheets are most popular. This is because these metal roofs are the easiest and quickest to install.

Now the choosing of the correct type of metal, their form and style is complete. Next comes the next important part of underlayment of metal roof. This process’s importance is as equal as the metal roof itself. There are various processes by which a metal roof can be installed. Some can be directly installed over and above any pre-existing shingle. While others require that the roof is stripped of all the existing shingles and a fresh new surface is created.

The tip for sound proofing is to make sure that the surface is super smooth. It also provides excellent insulation. This will ensure that your roof has along life. Insulation also decreases the level of that irritating noise created by rainfall and hail fall on the metal roof. Apart from this, it also makes your home more efficient in terms of energy conservation.

Whatever metal for roof or the method of underplayment you choose, take utmost care of fastening system for installation. Due to natural phenomena, metal roof tends to expand during summer and contract during winters. This may result in under quality products of fasteners to come loose and may even come off. So choose the right kind of fasteners for your meal roof to ensure the best results.

Interior Design and Material Color Schemes

Balancing all of the wood tones, paint hues, tiles and stone elements can be a tough decorating challenge. You’ll also have to consider the tones of metal and the colors of fabric for a truly balanced room. You may even want to bring in artwork which will add an entirely new range of shades into your room. With a little practice you can make cohesive palettes with the best of the interior designers.

When choosing a color for anything in the room you’ll want to consider the cost. This will determine whether you go with a bold color or a neutral color. You might want a basic granite countertop color like black or taupe instead of blue. Even if blue is your favorite color it may hurt the resell value of your home later on because it won’t work with every design aesthetic and it doesn’t blend in for that mass appeal. Instead you might want to stick with a taupe or beige countertop and then paint the walls or even the cabinets blue or bring in bright cobalt blue pottery. This infuses the space with your favorite color but also gives your home durability.

The same principle applies to tile. You might not want to remodel your bathroom for another five or ten years. This means that you should go with a basic ceramic tile color that you can live with throughout all your design fits and moods. Who knows? In a few years the guest bathroom might be a kid’s bathroom.

You can still add interest to a tile job with texture. You might want to go with oversized tiles to give a beige faux stone more presence. You can also add in white accent tiles in a rope design to spice things up while keeping them neutral. Vary the finish by going with a stone tile border and then using a basic coordinating ceramic for the rest of the room. Neutral tile doesn’t have to be boring. You might want to go with a stone mosaic backsplash in a traditional kitchen to add warmth and subtle color. You can also use glass tile for a contemporary space that you’ll still be able to change out.

You might want to use the same wood tone throughout your home. For a contemporary space this would mean painting all of the trim and woodwork in your home a bright white or daring black. For a traditional home that still has warmth and character try a mahogany color on the cabinet, floors, furniture or all three. This gives a subtle red warmth without being over the top. Use a lacquered finish for an elegant space or try beating up the piece a little bit and then putting a black glaze over it. When you wipe off the glaze it will stay in the indentations for a rustic, worn look that still keeps within an elegant color palette.

You can use almost any color in an interior design color scheme and still have a cohesive look. The important thing to consider is how often and how expensive it is to replace a material. You might want to just paint the furniture red in a kid’s room instead of going with red carpet. The use of neutral colors, wood tones, and a tied together metallic color palette ensures a successful design aesthetic.

Changing Paint Finish – Painting Flat Over Gloss

Changing paint finish from gloss to flat can be as simple as adding a primer, then choosing your new paint color. Often, this requires just a few hours for the primer, time to dry, then a few more hours to add the next color. Once the drying time for the color of choice is complete, you are ready to add accessories, furniture, and other accents that make your room feel like a home.

There are a few basic tips and tricks for painting flat over gloss. If you do not follow the few simple rules, you may wind up with an unattractive paint finish and patches of gloss showing through the flat layer. This can give the room an unfinished or unprofessional feel, giving guests the wrong first impression about how you feel about your own home.

Consider Sanding

A very glossy coat of paint can be a real problem when you change the paint finish from gloss to flat. When this is the case, consider sanding the wall lightly in order to get rid of some of the glossiness. Use a rag to wipe away the majority of the dust before you take the next step, or it may cause some issues when you begin to primer or paint the next layer. If you are not sure whether the wall needs to be sanded, it is always best to err on the side of caution in this case, so go ahead and sand the wall.

When sanding just is not an option for some reason, consider a deglossing agent such as those found at many home improvement warehouses and similar stores. You can also find great ideas online, and some online stores offer these substances for purchase and shipping directly to your home. They are relatively inexpensive, and pretty easy to use as well.

Start With Primer

The most important step is to start with a coat of primer to cover the gloss, or it will bleed through to your new paint color. This primer coat should be the starting point for any transition from oil-based to water-based paint, too, but is especially important for transitioning from gloss to flat paint. Primer covers the first coat, and is the best way to ensure a more professional look in the long run. Latex primers are often very easy to paint, and offer a great barrier between gloss and flat paints.

Many home improvement stores sell brand names of primer, from Kilz to store brands, most with equal effectiveness. The biggest determining factor in this case is often budget, because most brand names have the biggest variation in the price tag. If budget is less of an issue, choose a brand name that is better known to ensure the best results.

As a final note, keep in mind that you have to allow time for the primer to dry completely before painting the next layer. Primer that is not completely dry will crack if you paint over it, causing unsightly cracks in your overall paint job. Allow at least twenty-four hours for drying before you move on.

Bella Stone – It’s Vinyl, It’s Insulated, And it Looks So Real That it Will Fool You

Vinyl siding has evolved in the thirty plus years I have been in this industry. In its infancy you saw vinyl siding products in basic white a two profiles. Then along came a few color options but one common problem among manufacturers remained. How to control the chemical process to keep the material flexible over time especially when subjected to extreme sun or winter cold?

As a result vinyl siding was considered to be fragile and easily damaged up until the last ten years or so. Through advances in technology all manufacturers have created much better products to the extent that most modern product now carry a limited lifetime warranty. When you combine that fact with the vast array of products and colors now available it is not hard to see why modern vinyl siding products have become a best value in many markets.

To illustrate how vast your choices have become, I am going to give you a breakdown of all the available products from one prominent manufacturer. I think you will be surprised to learn they even offer a very realistic cultured stone look in an insulated vinyl product that is very do-it-yourself friendly and looks amazingly realistic.

The vinyl siding manufacture I am going to feature here is the Exterior Portfolio by Crane. In this product line description I will start with the most unique products and work my way to the most basic. In the Exterior Portfolio by Crane the first product line I will cover is their newest.

Bella Stone® is the first architecturally correct looking stone finish I have ever seen in a vinyl product, an insulated vinyl product at that. It comes to you in panels of varied sizes and mounts with a simple starter strip and clip system similar to many other vinyl sidings. What makes it unique is that it has a full line of accessories including a joint filler and aggregate that you place on the joints to make them disappear. It can be cut from the back to form its own corners or the manufacturer sells a complete corner system as well water tables and window sill pieces unique to their system. I have been amazed at the natural look and ease of installation. This system is perfect for anyone looking for the beauty of natural stone at a fraction of the cost and effort to install. Bella Stone® also compliments this system with a package designed to create a stone base and finish cap for your exterior columns.

Next let’s talk about the Portsmouth Shake® Since the shake look has become a staple on most new homes it is no wonder that the Exterior Portfolio by Crane offers seven different styles. Whether you are looking for the natural beauty of Hand Split Shakes, the more rugged look of Hand Split Variegated Shakes, or the longer profile of the Staggered Shake they have your product and color. Each these products come in a more uneven rough split appearance. If you are looking for something a little more refined then Cedar Shake, Perfections Shake, or 8′ long Shake Sections should be more to your liking. These products display the look of a sawn wood shingle with a more evenly matched edge profile. Rounding out the line in a literal sense would be the Traditional Half Rounds. So you see no matter what style shake best suits your project you are sure to find the perfect answer here.

The last product series I am going to detail here is the Oracle™ Insulated vinyl siding series. Oracle comes in either a Quad 4″ Clapboard or a Triple 4.5″ Dutchlap profile. It boasts up to a 4.0 R value and a 45% noise reduction. It has a 17% better resistance to air infiltration than their standard products and a 300% increase in impact resistance.

I will round out the rest of the product lines in full detail at my web site where I encourage you browse for details on any home building or home remodeling subject. I will also provide you with a direct link to the Crane web site including its exclusive visual design center where you can place their siding on an image of your home.

As always I hope you have found this article informative, please leave me a message or comment and I will use your ideas to create further in depth product review articles from the perspective of a seasoned expert in the field.