How To Measure Yourself For A Trench Coat

Are you thinking about buying a trench coat for yourself? They’re definitely great jackets to have for so many different reasons. Before you go ahead and shop for one though, make sure you have your measurements taken down. Here’s how to properly measure yourself.

Arm Length

Measuring for the arm length is one of the more important steps that you need to complete in order to get the right size trench coat for yourself. In order to get any measurements you need to find yourself a soft tape measure. Using a normal tape measure won’t help because they don’t confirm to the contours of your body which can lead to incorrect measurements.

With the assistance of another person, measure down the arm while it is hanging at the side of your body. Place the end of the tape measure at the bottom of your neck, in the middle, right where your neck joins your back. Swing the tape measure down the side of your arm and measure to the back of the hand at the knuckles or the back of the hand.

Jot that measurement down

Chest Size

The next measurement that you need for your trench coat is the total size of your chest. You can take this measurement simply by measuring completely around your jest. Again, complete this step with the assistance of another.

Jot this measurement down as well.

Waist Size

Finally, the last measurement you’ll have to take for your trench coat is the total size of your waist. This is a measurement that you can do on your own if you don’t have anyone else to do it for you. Simply take the soft tape measure and measure around your waist where you wear your belt.

Write this final measurement down, and that’s it.

You now have all of the measurements that you need in order to purchase the right size trench coat when you’re shopping online or at your local motorcycle shop.

Remember, it’s important that you get the right trench coat size measurements before you make your purchase because it simply will save you money in the long run. How will it save you money? If you purchase the wrong size the first time you make a purchase, you might have to pay for the shipping costs in order to send the trench coat back for a new one. This obviously is something you want to avoid.

One thing to keep in mind also is that you might have to add to your measurements. Often times retailers will require that you do this in order to make room for clothing underneath.

Excavation Guidelines That Could Save Your Life

Open trenches are common on large construction sites. Pipe fitters of all types (fire protection, plumbing, gas lines, telephone, etc.) need to dig up the earth in order to install underground piping for future use. What most people don’t realize is how dangerous an open trench can be. For the workers, an improperly formed ditch can spell certain death if a cave-in should occur. Safety precautions may seem like an annoyance but they exist for one single reason: to preserve life. I was superintendent of a large Los Angeles based contractor for almost twenty years. During that time, I did my best to conform to all guidelines and applicable laws when it came to construction safety. I believe the one area that is most important for following rules and regulations is when a trench must be dug. This article will discuss common safety practices for excavation.

Have you ever heard the term “competent person”? OSHA has devised training guidelines for anyone working in or around an open trench. The course is simple and can be acquired for free through local trade schools or your local trade Union. Typically, there must be one competent person around an open trench while work is being performed. If you work near or around an open trench, ask if there is a competent person on site. If not, ask if you can acquire training. What you learn could potentially save your life or someone else’s.

Does your ditch have the proper slope? The general rule is as follows: any open ditch that exceeds five feet in depth must maintain a 1 to 1.5 slope – for every one foot that you dig, you must go “out” 1.5 feet and maintain this slope for the length of the ditch. Although five feet may not seem that deep, even a three-foot ditch can feel exceptionally deep if you are lying on your chest and working inside the ditch. In such a situation, if you are face-down and working in a three-foot deep ditch and a cave-in occurs, you are basically trapped face down. A collapsed mound of dirt can crush your rib cage and prevent you from taking a single breath, and this can happen in a matter of seconds. Always create the proper slope when digging a ditch, even when the depth does not exceed five feet.

Before you dig, call DIG ALERT. Unless you have an on-site engineer to reveal locations of local pipelines, you should simply call and notify Dig Alert two days prior to excavation. When you notify them, they in turn notify the utility companies who then have 48 hours to show up and clearly mark where their respective pipelines cross the intended ditch. This system was implemented in September, 1976 after a construction crew was killed when they accidentally ruptured a petroleum pipeline on Venice Blvd. in Culver City, California. Nine construction workers died and an entire city block burned to the ground as a result of that accident. The good news about Dig Alert: it’s free! There are zero fees whatsoever. The bad news: if you don’t have a permit to dig, you might be forced to get one as Dig Alert may notify the local city that you are intending to dig a trench.

Prior to digging, make sure there is a clear path available for vehicles to drive around the open trench. Make sure the vehicle path does not come too close to the ditch or the weight of the vehicle may cause a cave-in.

Try to keep two workers on site at all times. Although this can make a project more expensive, it is extremely dangerous for only one person to work inside of a trench. If an accident or cave-in should occur, a solo worker may become incapacitated and unable to call for help.

Another obvious but often forgotten safety precaution: cones and barricades. You should barricade the trench and string yellow caution tape from barricade to barricade. And if you can manage it, try to use barricades with flashing lights. Most construction workers will scoff at the idea of excessive barricades and say “we don’t need them!” But what you must realize is this: the barricades are not for the workers, they are for the average person who might be walking by the open ditch at midnight or two in the morning when it’s dark and there’s nobody else around. There have been countless occurrences where a pedestrian stepped into an open trench and was injured. There have also been situations where a vehicle was driven into an open, unmarked trench. When in doubt – add more barricades!

Tools, where are my tools? If you are going to create a trench, place a sheet of plywood nearby and lay your tools on it. Keep a standing rule that all hand tools, nuts, bolts, etc. must be returned to the sheet of plywood. This will avoid loss of tools and and/or pipeline components.

Those simple guidelines can potentially save your life or even a stranger’s life. They will also help in overall productivity and ensure a smoother installation. For complete information on trench safety, you should contact your local OSHA office and request their excavation guidelines.

Contract Tip – Include a Venue Provision in Your Agreements

When there’s a dispute over a contract, it’s not uncommon for the parties to land in court–the question is, which court? If you’re doing business with customers and suppliers outside your local area and something goes wrong, you could find yourself involved in a courtroom battle being waged hundreds or even thousands of miles away at a prohibitive cost. In fact, it’s common for plaintiffs to count on the fact that an out-of-state defendant will find it more difficult and expensive to fight a case than to either settle or simply be in default.

Most states have basic venue statutes which provide that, in the absence of a contract stipulating otherwise, lawsuits be filed in one of three places: the county in which the contract was entered into, where the defendant resides, or where the cause of action (the breach of contract) occurred. But depending on your particular situation, these statutes may not always work to your advantage. Also, though you may be able to change the venue after a legal proceeding has begun, that process will only delay getting the real dispute settled. That’s why it’s a good idea to address the issue of venue in your contract, long before a problem arises. Ideally, your contract should say that the venue is your county. The other party (or parties) to the contract may disagree; if so, then you must negotiate those terms.

In addition to selecting the location of a possible lawsuit, you also need to specify what court–state or federal–will have jurisdiction. Generally, state court is less expensive, it’s faster, and it’s more user-friendly than federal court.

Another important provision is choice of law. This means you should decide in advance which state’s laws will apply, keeping in mind that laws regarding various aspects of commerce can vary significantly by state. Typically, the choice of law matches the venue.

Your venue clause does not have to be lengthy or complex; it should simply state the location (county), jurisdiction (court), and state law that will apply in the event of a dispute or breach of contract. If the other party objects to your venue clause, or if you are asked to sign a contract and you object to the venue clause, work toward a resolution in your negotiation process. It’s a good idea to have an attorney review your basic venue clause as well as any modifications you might make as part of a negotiation. Generally a venue clause is not going to be a make-or-break issue when it comes to a contract; however, you should make your final decision based on what is best for your company and how much risk you are willing to take.

Container Gardening Vegetables – Benefits of Using Containers in Your Gardening

Due to smaller back yards, more time being spent at work and other things, more folk are turning there hand to a new idea in plant gardening. There’s a new interest in container gardening vegetables, and it is spreading in appreciation all around the globe.

Another great benefit from container growing vegetables is that in several cases, your vegetables can be grown all year. By growing in containers or pots, you straight away add a mobility side to gardening, where the containers can be housed in a conservatory, a back porch, on a deck, windowsill or kitchen table. There’s actually no restriction to where they can be grown!

By growing in this way, you may move your pots of vegetables around to follow the sun, or move them away from wind, rain, tempests, birds, and so on. Sure you would not need to plant your garden in this fashion if you were growing to maintain a family of four annually, but if there are one or 2 in the house, this may be a way of having fresh vegetables all the year round.

There are also no real limitations to successful container gardening vegetables. Relying on the depth and width of the containers, pretty much anything you would expect to grow out of doors, could in truth be grown in acceptable containers. Remember though the heavier the container becomes, the less mobile it becomes. On the other hand, this is going to be decided by screwing a wheel to each corner of bigger containers, and wheeling it in and about the house, or garden area.

Now that container gardening vegetables is reasonably widespread and interest in this technique of gardening is growing, some seed companies are even developing special sorts of seeds in particular for container growing. If your local supply chain isn’t stocking these varieties, the standard dwarf varieties are typically absolutely fine.

Ask around though and check online, though in some nations, the importation of seeds is illegal so take care you check the guidelines before purchasing seeds from overseas.

The best success with container gardening vegetables will come by planting vegetables with little shallow root systems. Some suited to this kind of environment would include lettuce, carrots, peas, tomatoes, beans, radishes, peppers and green onions. There are lots of others, and again, your local plant provider should be in a position to counsel the best varieties for you.

So if you’re needing to grow your own vegetables, and have not got the time, land or wish to have a tendency to an enormous out of doors garden, this is going to be the way to go for you.

This kind of planting removes the requirement for planning your out of doors garden to think about the daylight, wind, and natural environment. It requires less work and less time, and can produce the same glorious results as you would expect from the choice.

What Is the Average Price for New Furnace-Air Conditioner?

Many people purchase their very first furnace-air conditioner without even knowing about it. Usually when they buy their home, the HVAC system is already installed. Even when people purchase their next HVAC system they often open the contact book and call the foremost HVAC contractor mentioned on the list. This strategy will help to keep the house warm but can lead to spending an amount which is more than necessary.

There are many ways by which one can minimize the cost of buying and installing a new furnace-air conditioner. First contact several HVAC contractors to request a bid. Keep in mind that the decision an individual makes should not just depend upon the cost of the equipment alone. Choose a reputable contractor as it is very important in identifying the overall price and satisfaction. Various private and public entities provides financing and rebate incentives for buying a new HVAC system.

One of the best ways to raise the value of the house is by upgrading the home with new furnace-air conditioner. One of the great reasons for updating is to conserve energy. Preserving the energy which is used each month can substantially help to lower the utility bills. Helping to save the homeowner money on utility bills and enhancing the upfront market value of the house are just two of the benefits of installing a new HVAC system.

Many houses presently have older HVAC systems that use a refrigerant known as R22 refrigeration and this is used to chill out the air passing in the room. R22 is known for depleting the ozone layer. In order to ban all R22 refrigerants from further depleting the ozone, the government passed new laws which were made mandatory for all the new air conditioners that were being installed to use only a new refrigerant named R-410A. This R-410A refrigerant is costlier but is effective in not harming the ozone.

Houses are generally operating at around a 70-80% rate of efficiency which implies that 70-80% of the energy is used to run the furnace in the house and the rest 20-30% is wasted. At present times most of the furnaces that are being installed are 90% better or more efficient which implies that 90% of the energy is consumed, which in turn can help to save large amount of money over the entire lifetime of the home furnace due to less waste.

Updating the equipment is a good method to improve a home but it does require upfront cost. First there is the cost of the new HVAC system. This cost can range between $750 -$3000 depending on the brand, size and the model. The average cost for a new furnace is approximately $1,400 for the unit and includes no other elements costs which are used for installing the furnace. The price of a new air conditioner is between $600-$3,000 which depends upon the brand, model and size. The average cost for a new air conditioner for a 2 bedroom / 1 bath house is approximately $1,200 which is just for the unit and does not include any installation costs. The coil of the new furnace costs around $300- $600 and that of a new air conditioner costs approximately $400.

When it’s time to get a new HVAC system, price is always an issue. It’s important to do your homework, ask lots of questions and get at least three quotes from reputable HVAC contractors.

Basel II Summary – What is Important to Know About the Basel II Framework

What is Basel II? Who is behind it? Who has developed it? Is it an international law? Do we have to comply? Who has to comply? May I have a Basel II Summary? These are very important questions, and it is good to start from their answers.

The Basel II Framework (the official name is “International Convergence of Capital Measurement and Capital Standards: a Revised Framework”) is a new set of international standards and best practices that define the minimum capital requirements for internationally active banks. Banks have to maintain a minimum level of capital, to ensure that they can meet their obligations, they can cover unexpected losses, and can promote public confidence (which is of paramount importance for the international banking system).

Banks like to invest their money, not keep them for future risks. Regulatory capital (the minimum capital required) is an obligation. A low level of capital is a threat for the banking system itself: Banks may fail, depositors may lose their money, or they may not trust banks any more. This framework establishes an international minimum standard.

Basel II will be applied on a consolidated basis (combining the bank’s activities in the home country and in the host countries).

The framework has been developed by the Basel Committee on Banking Supervision (BCBS), which is a committee in the Bank for International Settlements (BIS), the world’s oldest international financial organization (established on 17 May 1930).

The Basel Committee on Banking Supervision was established by the G10 (Group of Ten countries) in 1974. These 10 countries (have become 11) are the rich and developed countries: Belgium, Canada, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, the Netherlands, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom and the United States.

The G10 were behind the development of the previous (Basel i) framework, and now they have endorsed the new Basel II set of papers (the main paper and the many explanatory papers). Only banks in the G10 countries have to implement the framework, but more than 100 countries have volunteered to adopt these principles, or to take these principles into account, and use them as the basis for their national rulemaking process.

Basel i was not risk sensitive. All loans given to corporate borrowers were subject to the same capital requirement, without taking into account the ability of the counterparties to repay. We ignored the credit rating, the credit history, the risk management and the corporate governance structure of all corporate borrowers. They were all the same: Private corporations.

Basel II is much more risk sensitive, as it is aligning capital requirements to the risks of loss. Better risk management in a bank means that the bank may be able to allocate less regulatory capital.

In Basel II we have three Pillars:

Pillar 1 has to do with the calculation of the minimum capital requirements. There are different approaches:

The standardized approach to credit risk: Banks rely on external measures of credit risk (like the credit rating agencies) to assess the credit quality of their borrowers.

The Internal Ratings-Based (IRB) approaches too credit risk: Banks rely partly or fully on their own measures of a counterparty’s credit risk, and determine their capital requirements using internal models.

Banks have to allocate capital to cover the Operational Risk (risk of loss because of errors, fraud, disruption of IT systems, external events, litigation etc.). This can be a difficult exercise.

The Basic Indicator Approach links the capital charge to the gross income of the bank. In the Standardized Approach, we split the bank into 7 business lines, and we have 7 different capital allocations, one per business line. The Advanced Measurement Approaches are based on internal models and years of loss experience.

Pillar 2 covers the Supervisory Review Process. It describes the principles for effective supervision.

Supervisors have the obligation to evaluate the activities, corporate governance, risk management and risk profiles of banks to determine whether they have to change or to allocate more capital for their risks (called Pillar 2 capital).

Pillar 3 covers transparency and the obligation of banks to disclose meaningful information to all stakeholders. Clients and shareholders should have a sufficient understanding of the activities of banks, and the way they manage their risks.

The Difference Between Fiberglass Composite Columns And Fiberglass Columns

Architectural columns can be a great addition to any new home or restoration project. There are many different column styles available today and knowing the difference between the various types of columns can go a long way in determining what will look best for your application.

The most popular columns are made with fiberglass or a fiberglass composite material. The differences between the two materials are the amount of resin used, the thickness of the columns and the weight of the columns. Fiberglass composite columns are made of marble dust, resin and fiberglass. They have a wall thickness of approximately ½” and are considerably heavier than fiberglass columns. Fiberglass columns have no marble dust in their composition. They are produced with fiberglass and resin only. Their wall thickness is approximately 3/16″, and they weigh approximately 2 lbs. per square foot. Composite columns are load bearing and true fiberglass (FRP) columns are decorative column wraps.

Both materials have their advantages. The composite columns are more economical in the smaller sizes from 6″ in diameter up to 12″ in diameter. In the size range from 14″- 18″ in diameter, both materials work equally well as far as cost factors are concerned. When you get into larger sizes, FRP columns can be more advantageous for your project because the lighter material costs less to install. For example, a composite column that is 18″ in diameter could weigh as much as 400 lbs. A fiberglass column would weigh 125 lbs. You would not need to bring in a crane or a boom to maneuver and install the larger FRP columns. Specifications and personal choice factor into which column works best for your project.

Another difference between the two materials concerns the use of decorative capitals with the columns. The Tuscan style capital and base fits both the composite column and the FRP column the same. These caps and bases side over the shaft on both conditions. They add no height and can easily be trimmed on site, by cutting from the bottom of the shaft, to cut the column to your desired height. When you get to more decorative styles of capitals such as Roman Corinthian, Ionic, Scamozzi, Temple of Winds, Modern Composite and others, the installation method will help determine which material to use. On the composite columns, the decorative capitals are made for load bearing capabilities. They are not designed to wrap around structural supports. This can cause problems when you are trying to hide a 4 x 4 post or I beam. The FRP capitals are a thin walled hollowed shell made for the purpose of wrapping around structural posts.

Both materials come in a variety of styles and sizes ranging from round and square, smooth and fluted, tapered and straight shaft.

Choose the Best Acupressure Mat

How the Tibetan Acupressure Mat is different to all the other Acupressure mats available on the market today?

The Tibetan Acupressure Mat is the ONLY Acu Mat developed by Scientists and widely clinically tested with positive results. The DESIGN of the Tibetan Acu mat is UNIQUE and DIFFERENT to the modified and softened ones created nowadays.

The idea of the Tibetan Acupressure Mat design confirms that the Sharper Pain the Stronger Gain.

So please check NOT the Name but the design. It is VERY easy to do there MUST be 18 SPIKES per standard Ø2cm flower. SIMPLY count, there should be only 18 points and the flowers MUST be distributed EVENLY.

All these can be checked visually. SO before you buy your Mat please do 3 initial checks:

1) Are there 18 spikes per Standard flower

2) Are the Plastic buttons distributed evenly on the base

3) Is the base a LINEN fabric WITHOUT PADDING for optimal Acupressure effect

If you answered yes to all the questions above, you won’t be wondering why your Acupressure Mat doesn’t work for you! Because our Tibetan Acupressure Mats work in 99.99% of cases! And it doesn’t perform as well in 0.01% when people simply forget to lie on it!

  • Only Tibetan Acu Mats are clinically tested and have all the relevant reports and certificates on effective treatment performance.
  • Tibetan AcuMats are manufactured in a Healthy and Safe environment in the EU. Only certified and environmentally friendly materials (plastic, glue and fabric) are used in the making of the mats
  • The use of Linen means the mats do not cause any allergies and eliminates the possibility of skin irritation. Linen naturally suppresses live pathogenic micro flora, bacteria and fungi. Linen flax is actually an effective barrier to some diseases
  • Not using any bleaching process for our Linen base. The fabric is kept natural to maximise it’s inherent properties
  • NOT Using foam or sponge padding. In use pads made with foam or sponge can cause skin to overheat. The padding can also become a breeding ground for Dust Mites which can cause allergic reactions in their own right!
  • Using only the highest standard of materials – medical plastic and non-toxic glue for our mats
  • Sharpness and density of the spines on our mats are different to the milder versions of competitors. Tibetan Acupressure mats have not been ‘domesticated’ to appeal to cultural norms! Acumats work best when the spines are sharp, this has been clinically proved. That is why the spines on our Mats are sharp. That is why with Tibetan Acupressure Mats positive results are guaranteed whereas with competitor mats it can only be truthfully stated that mats MAY help with similar problems
  • The maximum effect from using an Acu mat can only be achieved by using it on a hard flat surface. The flat base and Spike distribution of the Tibetan Acu Mat is a vital part of treatment quality and results. Padded mats or increased spike density simply reduce the Acupressure effect
  • Tibetan Acu Mats are very compact and easy to use anywhere, even if you are away on Holidays
  • Tibetan Acu Mats regularly receive the highest ratings by people who test different mats for value and effectiveness

Recarpeting and Refurbishing Your Bass Boat – Tips For a Professional Look

You’ve had the old boat around for a long time, and it’s getting pretty sea worn (or garage worn). The seats and carpet need replacing or recovering, the fiberglass needs a new gel coat, and several odds and ends need repair. You want a more up-to-date look, but you certainly don’t want to pay thousands of dollars for a new boat. How about sprucing up the old tub a little? It might be fun, but where do you start?

This was just the position my husband and I were in. We wanted to have access to a decent boat occasionally, but we would not use a boat enough to merit buying a new one. So, we decided to fix up the old one. First we assessed what it would take to put it back into good shape. One obvious eyesore was the seats. Should we replace or recover them? After investigating each option, we came to a pretty clear choice–to have them recovered would cost about $400. To replace them with new ones would cost around $160, so that was a no brainer. We found the seats on sale at a nationally known sporting outlet, ordered them, and had them within days.

The next area that was in dire need attention was the fiberglass. It had become dull and faded from years of sun and weather. After researching products that were designed for do-it-yourselfers, it was obvious that there was a lot of labor involved and the results were not great or long lasting; therefore, we decided to let the professionals restore the fiberglass. In order to get a better deal, we decided to strip the boat before taking it for an estimate. The seats, carpet, carpet glue, railings, compartment lids, and all accessories were carefully removed. Then we took it to a local boat builder. Because we had stripped the boat, it was ready to be refurbished. The cost–$700. We saved about $200 by taking all the “stuff” off. So far, we have $860 invested. (If your boat trailer needs repainting, this is an opportune time to do it.)

While the fiberglass was being restored, we set about the task of finding carpet, ordering it, and getting it ready for installation. Although boat carpet can be found in local carpet stores, home improvement stores, or marine supplies, the selection is usually very limited, especially in color choices. Because our boat was in the brown and bronze tones, our search led us to the internet to find a carpet color that would complement the boat colors. The best selection and best prices were found at a carpet outlet store in the carpet capital of the world–Dalton, Georgia. We ordered 20 feet to do the job, but that turned out to be too much, but at least we did not run short. The carpet was about $6.00 a foot. After shipping, we had about $160 in carpet. Now we have spent $1020.

After the fiberglass was shiny again and the boat was back home, we began the task of re-carpeting. We opted to do this ourselves. It is really not that difficult, just labor intensive. Because this is the step that we completed personally, I am detailing all tools, materials, and our steps and some of the “secrets” we learned through trial and error.

Tools Needed

* Utility knife for carpet and lots of blades

* Utility grade scissors

* Small clamps if needed for edges

* Drill with stripping wheel

* Scraper

* Putty knife

* Black marker

* Disposable paintbrushes

* Shop vacuum

* Rags, rags, rags

* Large work area

* Mineral spirits or acetone

* Roll of brown wrapping paper

* Yardstick

* Tape measure

Materials

* Outdoor latex glue–1 gallon

* Carpet

Steps For Re-carpeting

* Remove old carpet by loosening with putty knife and pulling from all surfaces. If carpet resists removal, use acetone or mineral spirits to dissolve glue.

* After all carpet is removed, scrape glue residue from all surfaces. Use drill and stripping wheel to remove remainder of glue. Be sure to remove as must glue as possible.

* Vacuum boat interior and wipe down.

* Make patterns of all parts to be re-carpeted by placing lids, etc., on brown paper and tracing around each, allowing at least an inch to overall area needed. On parts like compartment lids, don’t forget to include extra amount needed to cover edges plus enough to turn under for neat appearance.

* For immovable areas of the boat that require carpet, use yard stick and tape measure to determine the size and shape of the area. Draw pattern onto paper.

* Measure boat floor and draw off pattern for this area. Tape two widths of paper together to make this pattern.

* After all patterns are made, set each one in the correct position in the boat and mark with an “up” arrow to indicate the direction that the carpet grain must face. Failure to lay all carpet pieces with the correct grain direction will result in the carpet appearing to be different shades.

* Lay out patterns on carpeting, making sure each piece is positioned correctly with the carpet grain. Cut out each piece with heavy-duty scissors.

* Using disposable paint brushes, spread glue generously on the first surface to be covered. Position the carpet piece with the grain line facing correctly. Starting from the center, smooth out to the edges. If the piece has an edge and lip, make sure to wrap around smoothly. Secure turned under sections with clamps if needed until dry.

* For the boat floor, generously spread area near center with glue and work toward the edges. Once the carpet is in place, press and rub in place, making sure all wrinkles are out. Trim edges with scissors or utility knife.

* After allowing all carpeted areas to dry at least 24 hours, replace all lids, seats, trim, and accessories.

As a part of the refurbishing and renewing process, you should be sure to check all batteries, service the outboard motor and check out the trolling motor and fish finder. Make sure your boat lights are working as well as the lights on your boat trailer. If your bilge pumps need replacing, do this before you take her out. After everything is back together, all components working, and your boat is looking like new, take it out and enjoy the beauty and exhilaration of cruising on the water and finding that special spot where the fish are biting. The total cost of our project–about $1200–not bad for turning an eyesore into a beautiful vessel.

Why Polypropylene Carpet?

Polypropylene carpets

What you need to know when purchasing polypropylene carpets.

Polypropylene carpets are one of the most popular types of carpet as they are the most affordable and would be one of the most found carpets in domestic homes, due to its affordability and durability making up 80% of sales.

Polypropylene is a fully synthetic carpet which means it can be cleaned very easily. Stain resistance plays an important role when selecting your new carpet hence it being so popular in domestic and rental properties. The wear and tear of your carpet also plays an important part and that’s exactly what you get with this type of carpet, hard wearing as well as affordable.

Polypropylene is not as resilient as Nylon also not as commonly used in carpet fibers however this particular fiber is becoming much more popular being very cost effective, durable and practical in any circumstance. It is also keeping up with the fashionable trends now available in textured patters and designs in the latest colours.

Polypropylene (Olefin carpet fibre)

Olefin carpet fibre is strong, resists wear and permanent stains and is easy to clean. It is colour-fast because the colour is added in the production of the fibre. It is used in both indoor and outdoor installations because of its resistance to moisture and mildew, it also resists static electricity. Olefin carpet fibre is also used in the making of synthetic turf for sports surfaces such as used for tennis and hockey. You will also find it is good in the home in outside areas like patios and also in game rooms. Many Berber carpets are made of Olefin carpet fibre as they are better in loop carpets. Olefin fibres are colour-fast as the production process involves mixing polypropylene with the dyes.

Once again and most important aspect of all Polypropylene carpets are that they are strong, mildew resistant, moisture resistant, well priced and easy to clean.

Main Advantages:

Solution dyed colours

Good cover and bulk

Abrasion resistant

Stain resistant

Low static

Favourably priced

Resists fading

Carpet Care:

Tips to help keep your carpet looking good.

1. Carpets need to be vacuumed regularly

2. Spills need to be cleaned up as soon as the spills happen.

3. Before cleaning scoop up solids.

4. Blot liquid spills as soon as possible by using clean white towelling or a paper towel.

5. To clean for a specific stain us a recommended spot removal agent.

6. If the stain is quite bad or you are unsure what it is, call an expert carpet cleaner.

7. Before treating stains ensure you test treatments on an inconspicuous part of the carpet for possible colour change.

8. Rinse with cold or lukewarm water only but never saturate your carpet.

9. When drying carpet, blot with a white towel or paper towel or use a cold air fan to complete drying.

10. Have your carpet professionally cleaned when required. Steam cleaning is recommended.

11. During the stain removal and rinsing stages do not rub carpet pile

Wallpaper Paste – How to Make Wallpaper Paste That Works Like a Charm

How to make wallpaper paste? It is easy. Making homemade wallpaper paste has its advantages. First, it only takes a couple of minutes. Second, it is cheaper. Third, you can prepare your own paste that is environment friendly.

Learn how to make wallpaper paste with the following. Using the following ingredients, the preparation itself and gathering of the following is easy because they can be bought at any local stores.

1. Wheat flour or rye (250 grams)

2. Warm water (2 liters)

3. Turpentine essence or environmental friendly solvent (2 deciliters)

4. Sugar (2 tablespoons)

The following are guides in how to make wallpaper paste.

1. Mix the wheat flour or rye with one liter of warm water. Mix these two using a whisk. Start with enough amount of water to dissolve the flour or rye. Make sure the mixture becomes free of lump and smooth. Little by little, add more water until the mixture consistency becomes thin and easy to pour into the pot.

2. Put over low heat, with constant stirring for at most 10 minutes, at least 5 minutes. It will be noticed that the paste will thicken. Gradually add the remaining one liter of warm water. As the mixtures heats up, it will continue to thicken. Regularly stir. Cover it every once in a while, this will speed up the heating of the mixture. You will know if the paste is ready when the mixture becomes thick enough to stick on the whisk. Pour the paste into another container.

3. Add 2 deciliters of turpentine essence or any solvent that is environment friendly. This is to keep the paste from spoiling since it is made of flour. The paste will also gain pesticidal properties. This will help in keeping you wallpapers last longer. Since wallpapers, as the name suggests, are made of paper, there is high possibility that some pests will get attracted to your walls.

4. However, the solvent will speed up the drying process of the paste. Add two tablespoons of sugar to make it dry more slowly. Sugar also strengthens the solution. This step in how to make wallpaper paste allows you to make sure you will be using a wallpaper paste that is of good quality.

The two liters of wallpaper paste are just enough for 3 rolls of small to medium sized wallpaper. It will be better if you have a bigger pot that can accommodate more volume of mixture. It will allow you to make more in lesser time. It will also help you save. While making your own wallpaper paste is indeed easy, it will still take time for you to prepare the whole lot of paste needed for one room. So if you can use a bigger pot, it will be of great help.

Happy Wallpapering!

Rear View Mirror Fell Off – Rear View Mirror Tips & Mistakes

Installing a rear view mirror that has fallen is a simple job. It’s important to know how a common mistake could break the windshield if this simple task is done improperly. It’s very easy to glue the rear view mirror button upside down. I worked with someone years ago, that made this mistake. When he tried to remove the metal button from the windshield so it could be glued back on correctly the windshield was cracked! This simple job cost the company we worked for at the time, $350 to have a replacement windshield installed. Read on to find out what type of adhesive is recommended, the step by step instructions on how to secure the fallen mirror and what to do if the button was mistakenly glued on upside down.

Rear View Mirror Installation Tips (50 to 75 Degrees Fahrenheit)

  1. Use a rear view mirror kit made specifically for bonding the rear view mirror back on (like Permatex Rearview Mirror Adhesive).
  2. Separate the button from the rear view mirror. It is either held together with a screw or a spring retainer; the type without a screw will be pryed off with a screwdriver.
  3. Mark the position where the mirror will be re-glued. Use a crayon or piece of paper tape on the outside of the windshield.
  4. Scrape the old glue off of the inside of the windshield and the button. Clean the windshield and button with rubbing alcohol.
  5. The activator vial has a separator built into it, squeeze the vial until the inner portion breaks, the two parts will mix and is ready for application.
  6. Do not touch the surfaces with your fingers, apply the activator generously to the windshield and button. Allow to dry for 2 minutes.
  7. Open the adhesive and apply ONE drop to the center of the button (apply to the correct side of the button). One drop only, more isn’t better.
  8. Immediately hold the button in place on the windshield being sure that the it is right side up. Hold firmly for 60 seconds.
  9. Wait for fifteen minutes before mounting the mirror to the button.

If the button was glued on upside down or the wrong side to the glass, DO NOT try to remove it. Prying or heating to remove an incorrectly installed button may result in cracking the windshield! It’s best if this happens to purchase a new button and bond it on top of the incorrectly installed button.

What Exactly is Decoupage Glue?

Decoupage is a kind of craft that many people do because it is not only inexpensive but fairly easy. Cutting and pasting are the basic skills that you need in order to create really beautiful items that no one would ever have known was something you made. It is a craft in which you find an item, rather it be old or new, and make it into something more beautiful. It’s like turning trash in to treasure. All you need is a base, pictures or poems, and decoupage glue which you can either make yourself or buy at your local department store. At the store, you will find decoupage glue that is usually called “mod podge”.

People who create a lot of projects usually like to make their own glue in order to save themselves money. In order to make this type of glue, you can get regular white school glue and dilute it in order for it to be transparent. The most affective recipe that is used includes one part of white glue to one part of water. This is for the glue that will be placed underneath your picture and on the item that you are going to decoupage. For the decoupage glue that is going to be the sealant to the project, the best recipe is three parts of white glue to one part of water. More glue is needed for the sealant in order to make sure that your project gets sealed the correct way. If you are going to decoupage a plate that you are going to want to use, you will not want to have your project come apart.

Doing this kind of craft can be a little messy, but if you have a moist rag and towel near by, it will be easy to clean up. Many people do not like to actually touch the decoupage glue that they have bought or made, so they will use a spatula or Popsicle on their project as well as tweezers. This is perfectly fine but the real crafter will get down and dirty with the beautiful item that they are creating. You must try to keep some kind of order but not enough that you are worrying more about the mess you make instead of the beauty you are creating.

Karen

Decoupage Your Life

When Does a Leaking Heart Valve Mean Heart Valve Surgery?

A leaking heart valve fortunately, does not always mean valve surgery. And, heart valve surgery, if it becomes necessary, does not always have to mean that you’ll need an open-heart surgery.

In fact, most people with a leaking valve disorder, are totally unaware of their valvular disease. Their mildly leaking valve condition goes undetected because it just never progresses to the point of needing treatment.

Symptoms which might indicate that your leaking heart valve also called valve regurgitation is worsening to the point of needing some form of treatment are: unexplained fatigue, shortness-of-breath especially when you exert yourself, heart palpitations, an awareness of your heart beat, fluttery or irregular heart beat, chest pain also referred to as angina, dizziness or fainting, and swollen ankles or feet.

The heart valves are made to move your blood through your heart in one direction. When there is valve leakage, the valve leaflets fail to close properly, and some of the blood is regurgitated backwards in the wrong direction.

In severe heart valve leakage or regurgitation, the heart has to work much harder to re-pump the blood back through your heart and into your body. This “over-work” causes enlargement of the heart.

If you begin to notice that your normal everyday activities are tiring you out, and you’re experiencing one or more of the symptoms we’ve already mentioned, it may be time for you to visit your Doctor or cardiologist.

For example, do you notice that walking up your drive to the mail box is exhausting, or maybe just bending over to take clothes from the dryer causes chest pain, or do you experience breathlessness just from being outdoors the heat? These could all be signs of heart valve disease.

Your GP can listen to your heart with a stethoscope. Often, just listening to your heart can tell your Doctor if you have a heart murmur. Depending upon the severity of the murmur he or she hears, your GP may refer you to a cardiologist.

The cardiologist’s diagnosis will probably include one or more of the following tests:

– an electrocardiogram (ECG), a test that measures the electrical activity of your heart to see how well it is working

– an echocardiogram, an ultrasound scan that produces a picture of the inside of your heart – a chest X-ray – a heart cath, a small tube (catheter) is threaded up to your heart through an artery – usually in your groin. A dye that shows up on X-rays is injected into your blood stream and X-rays are taken to produce an image of the blood flowing through your heart – a cardiac CT scan that uses X-rays to make a three-dimensional image of your heart.

If these tests show that your have a severely leaking heart valve, then, you will probably require some form of heart surgery. When possible, heart valve repair surgery is always preferable to valve replacement surgery because your own heart tissue is being used to make the repair; however, if you need a valve replacement, the artificial and pig valves are overwhelmingly successful.

As of this writing, the only approved option for treating severely leaking heart valves is open-heart surgery with heart-lung bypass. But, if your problem is a leaking mitral valve, you just might be in luck, some 30 hospitals across North America are now participating in an FDA-approved clinical study of an experimental device for repairing a leaking mitral valve, which does NOT require open-heart surgery.

This is truly exciting news! Amazingly, this minimally invasive procedure can repair a leaking mitral heart valve while the heart is still beating. In this FDA-approved clinical study, an experimental device and procedure use a catheter inserted into a vein in the groin.

Mallet Putters – Why the Pro’s Are Turning to Mallets Over Blades!

More and more these days the pros are turning their hand away from the traditional Blade style putter in favour of the Mallet Putters which we are starting to see more and more of in the golfing world today. The more experienced and professional golfers out of the bunch are still tending to opt for their trusty Blade style putter simple because they have the skill set to actually use it effectively. But for new or newer golfers putting with accuracy isn’t that easy and it’s something which many golfers often struggle with, hence the Mallet Putter. Mallet Putters assist golfers in many ways when taking their putting swing and they have many benefits over the traditional Blade Putter. It’s major benefits include the following:

  1. Popularity – The increasing popularity of the Mallet quite honestly speaks enough for itself, many major brands including Taylormade, Callaway, Ping and many others are now manufacturing and distributing Mallet Putters in their thousands so there is clearly a market for them. The reason there is a market for them is because they are so good at helping golfers to do what they do best – play golf!
  2. New Designs – When Mallet Putters first arrived on the market it was difficult for golfers to like them, they were large, cumbersome and clumsey. But with the increased popularity of the mallet, manufacturers are getting increased feedback and are able to provide a solution to this feedback in the way of product improvements. This is why, today, we are seeing better putters being bought out every month.
  3. Improved Features – There are perhaps 3 major features to most Mallet Putters which enable them to react better than their nearest rival, the Blade Putter. These three features are:

    • The size/weight of the Mallet head – The larger than normal weight and size of the head of the Mallet Putter gives it a much better forward control and moment of intertia which prevents the twisting which we quite often see in common Blade Putters. Thus the person hitting the ball has more opportunity to concentrate on where they are hitting the ball rather than how they are hitting the ball.
    • Improved Alignment – This kind of Putter gives much improved alignment to the put. This is achieved by the size/weight of the Mallet head mentioned above as well as by the overall size of the club itself. The club design also has an influence on this by the way the club ‘rod’ has been attached to the head of the Mallet. The method of attachment offers a pool cue type of alignment assistance, enabling the Putter much great accuracy. Alignment is key in putting and the Mallet gives far more alignment support than the Blade which is why many pros are turning to Mallet Putters.
    • Weight of the Putter – The overall weight of the putter is in fact heavier than most of the Blade putters. This weight enables the pro’s to concentrate on the mechanics of their shot whilst the club does the majority of the work.

It’s clear why more and more pro golfers are turning away from Blade Putters and heading for the more popular Mallets, but will this change last or is it just a fad?