Changing Carpet Stairs To Wood – Do I Rebuild Or Reface?

Carpeted stairs are passé. Hardwood stairs are the way to go, but is it possible to replace carpet on stairs with wood, without destroying the house, living under the mess of a construction site for months on end or selling your only child to the bank? Absolutely, as long as you can answer yes to two questions!

Tearing the house apart to redo your stairs just doesn’t make sense. Besides to build a standard set of hardwood stairs probably costs four times more that taking your existing stairs and changing carpet stairs to hardwood steps, in a wood species to compliment the balance of your home decorating. It is not unusual to save thousand of dollars. So what do you need to answer first?

Question number one: Are your existing stairs structurally sound? In other words if I were to remove the carpet and add a few (or a lot) of screws to the existing structure would they meet the existing building code and NOT squeak in daily use. If this isn’t the case then give up and start from scratch before you waste any more money!

Question number two: Are you happy with the overall layout of your steps? Are they a suitable size, rising enough on each step to be safe and offering enough depth for you to comfortably plant your foot? Many do-it-yourselfer’s and even those in the trade, have trouble with the math used in constructing steps. They often think that when you get to the point of wanting to replace carpet on stairs with wood, that you can also play with the overall layout by adding width to an existing set of treads. They think that if they build up the front of the stair under the nosing it will give them a longer run. They forget that if you do this to every step it kind of cancels each other out, so your layout must be acceptable as is.

Thus, if you are happy with your existing “rise and run,” then you are in the ideal position to recover these stairs. Hardwood of any species can be used for the job, thus here is a list of steps for changing carpet stairs to wood.

Step #1: Remove the carpet, tacker strips and/or any residual glue. Don’t worry if the wood gets gouged in the process.

Step #2: Cut off the existing nosing of the construction stairs on both the front and if you have an open end, there too.

Step #3: Remove and store any spindles that may be drilled into the stairs. Leave the newel posts in place. You can work around them, unless of course your intent is to have a new railing as well.

Step #4: Use a matching hardwood veneered plywood to face the back riser and stringer. No point in using solid hardwood here as it doesn’t take any wear in this location and solids are much harder to work with.

Step #5: Glue down solid hardwood plank stairs to the face of your old treads, using construction glue. Glue that is in a caulking tube is the easiest to apply, otherwise use a small notched trowel to spread, especially when applying it to the ¼” plywood or bulges will be obvious.

Step #6: Replace your spindles and trim any corners with appropriate mouldings to hide seams between the plywood used for the riser and that used for the stringer.

Further: It is best to pre-finish all the plywood and treads before you install. Polyurethanes typically take 48 hours to come to full strength so it can tie up your steps for a bit of time if you chose to do the finishing on site. Besides it is easier to avoid runs if everything can be finished while on the flat.

For further information on replacing stair treads, changing carpet stairs to wood visit our website: http://www.woodsthebest.com Lots of information on how to order custom made hardwood steps in the size, shape and wood species that you really want plus all the tips on how to install like a seasoned pro. After all precision woodworking is all in the details.

Load Break Switch

In power applications, switches perform function to energize or unenergized an electric load. On the high end of the scale are load-break switches and disconnecting switches in power systems at the highest voltages (several hundred thousand volts).

Load-break switches are required to maintain the capability of interrupting the load current. The load break switch in a circuit with several hundred thousand volts, designed to carry a large amount of current without overheating the open position, having enough insulation to isolate the circuit in closed position, and equipped with arc interrupters to interrupt the load current.

Load break switches of air break are of versatile switch gear for transformer control & protection. They can also be used for Motor feeder in conjunction with Vacuum contactors. They are highly useful for Ring feeders for isolation of faulty section either manually or through remote control if fitted with motor operation. Load break switch in conjunction with HRC fuse can tackle high fault current and offer very good protection against dead short circuit capacity up to 40KA.The fault clearance and isolation through this combination will be achieved in a few milli seconds provided a proper selection of LBS and fuse is done. HRC fuses are manufactured with silver strips/silver coated Cu. Strips wires surrounded by granular quartz. When short-circuit occurs the metal element melts and the molten metal melts the surrounding quartz, making the combination an insulating material, called fulgarite. There will be a number of sections in the element which will create similar insulating media in quick succession and thus the arc will be extinguished in a matter of few milliseconds, say 5 to 8 milli-seconds, ie., less than 1/2 a cycle.

Electronic Engineering Services [http://www.engineeringservices.beganto.com/]

Cadillac’s 2010 DTS Frontal Impact Protection System Gets Highest Ratings

The 2010 DTS, Cadillac’s full-size luxury sedan, has no safety-related changes this year.

The DTS comes standard with front, side, and curtain side airbags; traction control; four-wheel antilock disc brakes; brake assist; daytime running lights; and GM’s StabiliTrak Electronic Stability Control system. Unlike many cars in this price class, the DTS does not offer seat belt pre-tensioners or other pre-collision systems.

The DTS offers several novel safety options. The Side Blind Zone Alert system flashes warning lights in the side mirrors and sounds a tone if another vehicle is in the Cadillac’s blind spots. The Lane Departure Warning system triggers a dashboard light and a warning chime if the DTS leaves its lane without signaling. Both systems are standard on the Platinum model and optional on the DTS Premium; they are not available on base or Luxury models. Premium and Platinum models also include Ultrasonic Park Assist, a rear-obstacle detection system.

Road tests say the DTS has acceptable emergency handling, but its panic stopping distances are longer than average for this class.

The NHTSA awarded the Cadillac DTS five stars (its maximum rating) for driver protection in frontal impacts. The DTS received four-star ratings for front passenger protection, side impact protection (for both front- and rear-seat occupants), and rollover safety. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety rates the Cadillac’s frontal impact protection Good (the highest rating), but side impact protection ranked only Acceptable; many comparably priced sedans receive Good ratings in both areas.

GM classifies the standard OnStar system as a safety feature, because it will automatically contact emergency personnel in the event of a crash. However, OnStar requires a monthly fee after the first 12 months.

Types of Tallahassee Homes

If you are looking for Tallahassee homes for sale you can find homes that range from a sixty thousand dollar three bedroom frame home with one bathroom to a 4. 9 million dollar mansion. Homes are available in many different price ranges to suite every taste and budget.

If you are interested in the sixty thousand dollar home, you should know that it has less that one thousand square feet in floor space, no garage and is on a lot that is less than half an acre. Monthly payments on the property would be about 269 dollars per month.

The bedrooms in this home are very small, being ten by ten, ten by nine and ten by eight.

If the 4. 9 million dollar estate is more your style, it has five bedrooms and eleven baths. This home has over ten thousand square feet in floor space and a guest house that is two and one half times the size of the first property described. The home has frontage on a lake and a golf course. Monthly payments on this home would be over 22,0000 dollars.

These homes are at the extreme ends of the list in Tallahassee homes. In actuality, you may not be interested in either of those extremes. More than likely, you will choose somewhere in between.

At the lower end of the price range, many of the homes that are offered are town homes. They, as well as many homes built in newer subdivisions have homeowner’s associations to whom the homeowners must pay annual fees. These fees take care of property designated as common areas for the development.

At the upper end of the range, you will find many large, well built homes that offer great views and exclusive neighborhoods. However, your monthly payment may be twenty two thousand dollars, every month.

Choosing a home is a very personal decision. In addition to income and ability to pay, one must choose the home that best reflects his or her personality.

Industrial Rope Access – Work at Height From Onshore Maintenance to Offshore Work

Industrial rope access has a huge expanse of potential applications for carrying out work at height. Often used onshore as a cost effective alternative to scaffolding or cherry pickers, the onshore applications of rope access range from building and facade maintenance tasks such as gutter cleaning, maintenance and repair, window cleaning at height, external vegetation removal, roofing and rooftop work, stonework and pointing in difficult access areas, painting and cleaning at height, bird and pest control such as the installation of high level netting, banner and sign installation, through to multiple industrial and construction uses, work on bridges, glazing solutions and maintenance on towers, Geotechnical work, as well as inspection and testing purposes. Similarly in the offshore sector, which in the UK and Scotland is generally on North Sea Oil Platforms, rope access allows work at height to be carried out in areas that other work at height alternatives wouldn’t be able to reach, and provides a safe and efficient mode of working at height for just about any required scenario.

Rope access techniques originated from caving and climbing techniques and were developed and adapted into safe access methods for industrial purposes several decades ago. The continuing evolution of these techniques has allowed industrial rope access to maintain the lowest instance of access in the whole access sector. In Scotland and across the UK, all aspects of work at height must be undertaken in line with British Standard BS7985 (2002) and the Work at Height regulations (2005).

There are several factors that make industrial rope access so useful for work at height tasks. Firstly the time taken to install access systems is minimal. The impact on the structures that work is being carried out on, as well as on the surroundings (including traffic flow and pedestrian access) can also be kept to a minimum. Work can be carried out safely in almost any scenario, and there is no height limit at which technicians can operate safely. This makes industrial rope access an invaluable tool for carrying out tasks in difficult to reach situations and locations.

Rope access technicians use a variety of gear to allow them to perform the tasks required of them safely. Obviously ropes are one of the most important, both the working and safety lines used should be low-stretch kernmantle type, between 10 and 11mm diameter. Descenders, Ascenders, Fall arrest devices, Harness, Pulleys, Carabiners, Cows Tails, Lanyards, Anchors and Rope Protectors are also all part of the rope access technicians arsenal, enabling them to get to difficult to reach areas and carry out the various required maintenance, cleaning, painting or inspection work.

Now that it is becoming more and more widely known and recognized as a safe, reliable, cost effective and viable work at height solution, the applications of industrial rope access techniques have an important role to play in the future of all work at height scenarios, from domestic maintenance to construction and the petrochemical sectors, not only in Scotland and across the UK, but also worldwide.

Treatment of Blood Under a Fingernail

Everyone at some point in their life pinches or smashes their fingertip under or between something. It’s just a part of life (ouch)!! If it were not for the fingernail, the injuries would probably heal within a few days like a common bruise and have no lasting effect or pain. However, because the fingertips are highly vascular, minor trauma, such as a crushing injury or a blow to the fingertip will cause them to easily bleed underneath the fingernail. Your skin, and the anatomy of the fingernail, naturally seals that area below the nail and does not allow the blood to drain. The blood therefore pools in the nail bed, causing an increase in pressure and intense throbbing pain. This is how the fingernail becomes darkened, and you can often literally feel throbbing pain to your injury, with each heartbeat.

Treatment and Expectations: Immediate treatment includes ice and elevation of the limb to minimize the swelling of the injury. Sounds easy you say? Well read on! The next part is not for the faint at heart.

If the pool of blood under the nail is painful and you can feel a throbbing sensation (your pulse), then relief can only be achieved by actually releasing the pressure. This can be done by creating a hole in the top of the fingernail itself, and allowing the blood to drain. Now this may sound like the last thing you want to do to an already painful finger, but if you get in the car and drive to an Urgent Care center, this is exactly what they would do. The following section describes two basic ways to painlessly achieve this, one by drilling a hole, and one by burning a hole. Neither way is any more painful than the other, and both are very easy to do.

One way to do it: The hole can be made with a jeweler’s drill (a really small drill bit that you can twist by hand), or an 18 gauge syringe type needle. Clean the top of the nail off with alcohol and begin drilling the hole directly over the largest and darkest part of the blood pool. Use a quick twisting motion of the needle or drill with very little pressure. You won’t feel any additional pain because the nail has no nerves in it. When you get through the nail, blood will spurt out of the hole, often with surprising force, and relief will be instantaneous. You can also try to gently squeeze out any remaining blood from the hole.

The fastest and best way to do it: The other method involves melting a hole right through the nail. Although it sounds horrifying, in my experience, it is easier, faster, less traumatic and more sterile since it cauterizes and kills bacteria with the heat. To begin, first straighten a small paperclip. Then holding it with a pair of glove or pliers, heat the paperclip in a flame until it gets red hot, and then poke a hole in the nail. You really should not have to push the paperclip, as it will melt through by itself. Apply just a little pressure, right over the darkest spot, and continue until you feel a little pop, or blood is released. You want to do this procedure quickly enough so that you won’t have to reheat the paperclip again to finish the job. When you get through the nail, blood will spurt out of the hole, often with surprising force, and relief will be instantaneous. You can also try to gently squeeze out any remaining blood from the hole.

Whichever method you choose, you don’t want to go deeper than about 1/16 in. (2mm) below the nail. (Don’t stress about this, just estimate it with your good judgment and get it over with!) After your done, soak in some Hydrogen Peroxide solution, repeat the soaks three times a day. This is to prevent a clot from forming and causing pressure to build up again. You might have to squeeze once or twice again, but usually, the first time does it.

When to seek professional medical attention:

-Signs and symptoms of infection. -You lose any movement or range of motion in the body part as a result of the trauma. -The injury appears to be worse than a simple bloody fingernail. -When in doubt.

Light of the Future – Hybrid Solar Lighting

Hybrid solar lighting (HSL) isn’t anything like solar power that converts sunlight into electricity. Through the use of optical fibers, HSL captures sunlight, channeling it and piping sunlight into a building. When there is little or no sunlight, these fixtures use electricity so that constant lighting is achieved.

Collector units, positioned on the top floor of a home or building, can provide as much as 50 percent of sunlight for indoor lighting. This is far superior to photovoltaic cells, which convert only 15 percent of sunlight into electricity, which then has to be changed back into light. An incandescent bulb uses only about 2 percent of this conversion and, yes, there is a lot of heat and energy wasted in this traditional lighting technology.

The use of incandescent light, a wonderful innovation of the past, served us well for decades, but has brought us to a crucial threshold. Research for alternative energy sources grows more important every day as we see our utility bills rise and our environment heat up because of our dependence on fossil fuels.

This type of Lighting employs a direct and efficient use of sunlight. HSL fixtures generate much less heat than regular incandescent fixtures, and, compared to fluorescents, the fixtures emit a full spectrum light, rather than the limited frequency spectrums of fluorescents. There are many advantages to using full spectrum light. The human eye and brain responds positively to full spectrum light because it replicates sunlight.

In retailing, colors of products are enhanced by full spectrum illumination. Shoppers, it is proven by retail research, feel good about buying in a full spectrum environment. Presently, HSL can save the most financially in commercial applications, and residential uses are being researched for the near future.

Hybrid Solar Lighting is employed by four foot wide mirrored dishes on rooftops equipped with GPS chips. Track the sun and focus the sunlight down into a single cord of 127 optical fibers. This light-conducting, flexible cord is a “pipeline” to HSL fixtures equipped with diffusers, which spread the light into room. One mirror collector can power eight HSL fixtures, which can illuminate an area of 10,000 square feet. The collector removes infrared rays and this makes HSL light fixtures cool enough to touch. The advantage of this cool operating temperature would be to reduce use of air-conditioning.

The fixture uses photo sensors to switch to electricity when sunlight illumination is weak, so that the fixture is always emitting a steady illumination. On a sunny day, a fixture can offset as much as 80 percent of artificial light. On a dark day, the illumination from sunlight might reduce to as much as 5 percent of required illumination for a given area. Light traveling along optical fibers grows weaker the longer the fiber cord is. Roof top collectors with shorter “pipelines” to fixtures located directly below would be the most powerful and efficient. Cost research for HSL’s aims at an expenditure of $3,000 per 10,000 square feet. This means that payback for the purchase of technology, for example, in Hawaii, would be approximately 3 years. For northern areas, the cost for HSL applications would have to be reduced further to make HSL’s a viable illumination technology for colder regions.

In field tests, interestingly, the solar fixtures emit a reddish light at sunrise and sunset. Test subjects responded positively to this change in color. This response can be attributed to the changes of natural light in sync with our circadian clocks (natural body rhythms.) This could explain why skylights in retail spaces have proven to increase sales. And because Seasonal Acquired Depression Syndrome is directly related to light (actually the lack of it, especially during winter months,) exposure to extended periods of natural light during the winter months could prove to be a welcome aid to those that suffer from this syndrome. Where skylights in commercial spaces have proven to positively effect sales and retailing ambiance, HSL technology has an advantage of providing constant natural light and increasing that positive trend.

Lighting – The First Rule of Home Staging

Home staging is all the rage, ever wonder why – well, because it works, that’s why! There are many great home staging consultants out there and their success ratios, speak for themselves. But did you know what one of the most important things you can do if you really want to sell a home? Clean the windows.

Sounds obvious right, it is but so many folks fail to see it, or see out of them. The windows are paramount for a home buyer, clean windows help sell homes. Now then, how do you suppose I know that? Well, it turns out, I am the co-founder of a franchise system that specializes in cleaning windows.

Our customers and the real estate professionals that hire us, tell us of their results. Indeed, now some home staging folks are starting to tell us what a difference it makes. It does not matter if you are selling your own home, the hard way or hiring a professional Realtor to help you through the tricks and traps of home selling, either way, if you can’t see out the windows, no one is going to want to come in and make an offer.

What is it about clean windows that make such a huge difference?

Well, clean windows let the natural light in. Psychologists note that the most important thing in home staging or for even curing depression is the lighting. That’s right, its all about the light! Lighting is the key, and the windows are the opening of the door to the sale of that home. Amazing something so simple, can be so important isn’t it?

Is Aging a Fertility Barrier?

Is there a natural way to cure infertility when you reach into your late 30’s or 40’s? Most women assume that the only way to do this is through expensive drug treatments such as IVF. In today’s society, more and more women are feeling the need to have babies when they are settled in their career, and are choosing to have children in their late 20’s or 30’s. This doesn’t necessarily fit in with the body’s ideal time clock to conceive. So by the time career driven women are trying to have a child, they can come across infertility issues.

There is no doubt that the age of a woman determines her egg cell qualities. Unfortunately once a woman hits 30, the egg cell quality declines, by the time they hit their mid-thirties, chances of miscarriage and infertility increase substantially. Once a woman reaches their forties, approximately only 50% percent have the capability to conceive a healthy child.

Thus the method to reverse infertility in your latter years becomes more intricate, and should be cured in a holistic manner. Generally, treatment should look to eliminate the build-up of toxins to induce hormonal balance. The consumption of raw clean foods, and quality supplements will help boost the declining progesterone and oestrogen levels.

As for the men, their fertility seems to work a little different. Even men who are 60 plus and above, still have the ability to father a child. Though, this does not mean they are not affected by poor fertility as well. When a man reaches his mid-thirties, he has approximately 15% less chance of fathering a child. And it continues to gradually decrease as a man reaches his later years.

To reverse infertility in men, testosterone levels are the key to solving the problem. Testosterone levels must be kept high, and sustained at a healthy rate. Dairy consumption has been shown to be a key contributor to decreasing fertility in men. This is mainly due to artificial hormones it contains, which have a countering effect on testosterone. A man’s BMI can also have also have ramifications to the male hormones. A male’s waistline should not go over 40 inches, as a rough rule of thumb. In addition, the male scrotum should not be overheated, and look to be kept in cooler conditions. It is suggested that prolonged hot showers are not encouraged, with cold showers being the preference to increasing testosterone. Studies have also shown it is a good idea not to place laptops directly above the crotch area. As laptops can emit heat, and directly affect this area.

There are certain natural products you can consume, to greatly increase your fertility health. Raw honey and cinnamon have been recognised to help treat fertility issues in cases of mature men and women. Ceylon cinnamon has been shown to greatly decrease a woman’s insulin resistance. Ceylon cinnamon is preferred over normal cinnamon. Insulin resistance can contribute negatively, causing higher cases of miscarriage. It also plays a role in food cravings, increasing food intake. Thus, this can result in weight gain. The suggested dosage of Ceylon Cinnamon powder is up to 4 grams each day.

Raw honey has been shown to have improve sperm quality in men, Just 2 tablespoons a day, for a few weeks can have a dramatic increase in sperm quality. Another product to have shown great results is royal jelly and bee propolis. If taken in tandem with raw honey, it has been shown to increase libido levels in both men and women. Studies also show royal jelly improves a woman’s egg cell quality.

A Review of the First Alert 2084DB Fire Proof and Fingerprint Gun Safe

The First Alert 2084DB (or is it the Honeywell 2084DB?) digital and fingerprint gun safe is one of the better small home safes on the market for your small valuables, like jewelry, papers, firearms, or whatever.

Before telling you why this is so, a little about the manufacturer/model confusion. This Honeywell 2084DB safe was originally made and sold through the Honeywell brand. Then the Honeywell safe division was purchased by Sisco and sometimes marketed as a Sisco-Honeywell safe. Now, more recently, this safe has become part of First Alert and is marketed under its name – the First Alert 2084DB.

Now what makes this gun safe so good? Well, many small safes are not fire proof. In other words, they cannot withstand a fire for sustained periods of time. If you want a fire proof safe you must specifically look for one that is fire proof.

Well, this 2084DB fingerprint safe fits this need. It has an Underwriters Laboratories fire rating of being able to withstand a temperature of 1700 F for 1 hour (inside temperature should not exceed 350 F). In most cases this should be quite sufficient to protect your valuables since most home fires are brought under control in less than an hour, and two, it is most unlikely that your gun safe will be located in the most severe, hottest part of the fire for the whole time.

The other unique and great thing about this First Alert safe is that it allows access through both an electronic lock or a fingerprint (or biometric) pad. Having these two options gives one a good bit of freedom in using this safe.

Actually, this safe is designed such that in addition to using the keypad or fingerprint pad a normal key must also be used to open it. In essence, the key can stay in its lock since the safe can’t be opened without entering a digital code or scanning your fingerprint.

The digital access lock allows you to enter any 2 to 8 digital pass code, meaning you have tens of thousands of combinations.

The fingerprint access of the safe allows you to enter up to 9 fingerprints. This means you can put multiple peoples’ prints in or just enter your fingerprint in different positions, which sometimes speeds up the safe access – since your finger must be pressed basically the same way (position and force) every time you use it.

These electronics run off four AA batteries.

Now this may get you thinking what if the batteries die or there is a malfunction with the keypad or the fingerprint pad? Well, in truth, there is a third way to gain access to your safe and this should only be used as a last resort, and that is by using a special emergency override key. With this key, you automatically bypass all the other mechanisms and take you directly into the safe.

A few comments on the physical aspects of this fingerprint and fire proof safe. The outside dimensions are about 18″ x 17″ x 18″ with the inside dimensions being about five inches less in each direction. This means the walls are about two and a half inches thick. The walls include heavy steel and fireproof insulation. Hinges and steel bolts are also heavy duty. Taking all these together your small fireproof and fingerprint safe will weigh a good bit over 100 pounds. The safe also comes with one shelf which is adjustable to whatever height you desire.

All in all this First Alert 2084DB fire proof and fingerprint gun safe is a good deal since it can do much and comes under the well known and trusted First Alert brand. At the time of this writing (June 2010), the price range on the Internet for these safes is between the mid three hundred to low four hundred dollars – and obviously does not include shipping.

How to Remove Wallpaper

Stripping down the interior wallpaper of your home requires the same meticulous preparations you did when you first installed it. If you are still using the traditional kind of wallpapers and wallpaper murals, you need specific materials and some chemicals too to make sure the removal will be successful and that the process will not damage your wall.

Modern wallpapers today are pre-pasted, which makes them easy to install and remove. Unlike traditional wallpapers, removing strippable wallpapers is not so damaging to the walls and requires less effort. In removing strippable wallpaper (newer wallpaper, murals, and wallies are of this type), you just need to scrape off the edge of a wallpaper and peel it away in strips. It’s that easy.

Sticker-type wall accessories and embellishments like wallies are pre-pasted and vinyl-coated. Anyone can easily remove wallies from their walls just by peeling them off.

Now for those that cannot be peeled away, such as traditional borders and wallpaper murals, you are going to need a wallpaper scorer, a paper scraper, a sprayer, some rollers, and chemical strippers. With these things ready, you need to:

1. Pepper the wallpaper with holes using the wallpaper scoring tool. The holes made by the scoring tools will enable the chemical strippers to penetrate deep into the fabric and soften the hold of the adhesive. More holes means less time needed for the chemicals to react. Remember though, that you need to exert light pressure on the tools so as not to damage the wall.

2. Spray or apply the chemical strippers on the interior wallpaper. There are two options when it comes to chemical strippers: the non-drip gel type, which stays wet for a longer period of time and is easier to apply by means of a roller or brush, and the liquid concentrate, which is more economical.

When applying the chemical stripper to your borders, wallpaper murals, and other wall coverings, it’s best that you start from top to bottom, working on one section at a time. Let the strippers soak into the fabric until it turns blue and/or starts to bubble;

3. Peel off the loose wallpaper. For stubborn residue and paper, use the scraper. If there’s glue left, apply the stripper on them and wait for 15-20 minutes, then remove any remaining adhesive;

4. Rinse the wall with clean water and sponge.

When stripping down wallpapers, it is advisable that you wear gloves to protect your hands.

Next time you order another set of interior wallpaper, go for the pre-pasted ones. They are easier to install, reposition and remove if you ever tire of them.

Fireproof File Cabinets – Protect Your Business and Home With the Right One

The safety of business files like customer contacts, mailing lists, billing information, business partnership contracts, and more are the main concerns of any business or home office. Their greatest enemy of mass destruction is fire which literally poses a key threat to the on going concern. No amount of fire insurance can help you save the core component of your business, that is, the high touch customer relationship aspect. Fireproof file cabinets can ensure that your documents are kept safely and within easy reach as and when you need to access them.

Made of a composite of steel and special materials, they are designed with fire resistance in mind to be able withstand high temperatures. Indeed, they often double up as burglary safes for valuables, important documents like title deeds, policy documents, passports etc. This is due to the fact that thefts have been a long plaguing issue since time in memorial. Made to match the normal cabinets in order to blend well into the background, they come in similar sizes and colors. The most popular types are the lateral and vertical fire proof filing cabinets which allow great versatility for filing as well as storage.

They are tested to ensure the authenticity of fire resistance. Often referred to as UL fire resistant ratings, these tests are conducted by the Underwriters Laboratories which sets the standards for industry fire resistant benchmarks. Take for instance, fire proof filing cabinets are often labeled as 1 hour 350 degree Fahrenheit UL Rated. This would mean that your cabinet is fire proof for one hour, maintaining a temperature of below 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Some are stress tested in terms of impact, from a drop point of 30 feet above ground level. In addition, they can also be tested for explosion hazard rating as well.

Very often, authentic and reputed manufacturers will include lifetime warranty on all operational parts. And when the safe or cabinets have been damaged in the event of fire, some even offer free replacements. So if you are looking for good fireproof file cabinets for your business or home office, be sure to check out the authentic manufacturers for total peace of mind.

All About Clay Tile Roofing

One of the most liked and popular choices of tile roofs include clay tiles as they are attractive, durable and long lasting, many people love having clay tiled roof. Generally, clay tiles are easily maintained as there is little or no maintenance required for quite a few years after installation.

Clay tiles are simple to manufacture. Although the traditional tiles were made with a mixture of aggregates and clay, rolled out in rectangular shapes, each of them had two holes for fixing it later to the roof. The wet clay tiles were dried and then fired in a kiln. Basically, each of the clay tile roofs was constructed of baked clay tiles. During the kiln firing, the shape of the tile was tilted, which gave it a different look, adding to the beauty of the tiled roof. Originally, the uneven temperatures, hand molding and crafting process lead to the variations in shape and size. There was difference in the hues and color due to the mix of clay, length of the firing and different temperatures contributed to it.

There was much experimentation during the Victorian era and numerous multicolored tiles were produced by varying heat and kiln firing duration. However, the modern techniques, high quality dyes and productions have eliminated the guesswork from tile manufacture.

Irrespective of where you are residing, tiles are an excellent choice for residential roofs as they are pest resistant, fire and decay redundant. As fired clay tiles are durable and hard, they are not easy to break and it is common to get the decking replaced while the tile roof is re-installed. These are perfect for giving the Mediterranean, Spanish and Italian look to the homes. And if you are looking for a modern townhouse, you’ll not be surprised to see clay tile roof there.

However, it is better to be aware that tile roofing is heavy and expensive to install but there is a wide choice o available colors, styles and brands that you can select from. As it is low maintenance, the cost of installation may be on the higher side but that is averaged out due to low or no maintenance. However, experts advice against walking the tile roof as they are prone to breaking if high pressure is applied. Thus, it might be best to call in the roofing experts when you require cleaning the gutters, clean fireplaces or cleaning the roof.

Additionally, other benefits of using tiles as roofing material are that they are non-combustible, so they don’t catch fire at all. With a variety of available shapes and colors, you can sure make your home look elegant yet unique. When suitable attention is paid on its maintenance, clay roofs can look like new for years to come. Periodic cleaning is needed to ensure that the tile roof does not sprout leaks and remove leaves from the gutters before the rainy season hits your hometown. When you are looking for hassle free roofing, go with a tiled roof.

Tips on How to Build a Drywall Ceiling

One of the first things the do-it-yourselfer realizes when learning how to build a drywall ceiling is that no man is an island – unless he uses rented equipment! Because the panels are big, bulky, and awkward, hanging drywall on a ceiling entails one or the other: the help of another person or renting a drywall jack from your local home improvement center. The cable mechanism on drywall jacks is not difficult to operate, and jacks do an excellent job of holding the drywall in a secure, flat position enabling you to more easily attach it to the ceiling.

Tools & Materials

How to build a drywall ceiling includes knowing what all tools and material you’ll need. In addition to either another person to help you or a drywall jack, you’ll also need a hammer, a drill with a screwdriver bit, and nails or screws for drywall. You’ll also, of course, need to measure your ceiling (twice!) and purchase enough drywall, including a little extra in case of mistakes, to do the job.

Mark Joists First

Find the boards – usually 2x4s or 2x6s – that function as ceiling joists by tapping along the wall studs with a hammer and following up the wall to the ceiling. As part of learning how to build a drywall ceiling, mark where these boards are located with a pencil. These are what you will be attaching the drywall to and marking them beforehand makes it much easier to find them than trying to find them as you are nailing or screwing on the drywall. You then need to measure where the light fixture goes on the drywall and cut out a hole to accommodate that area of the ceiling.

The Tough Part

Now’s the part in learning how to build a drywall ceiling where you’ll need the other person (who hopefully has plenty of stamina in addition to strength!) to hold the drywall up to the ceiling or to put the drywall panel on the jack. Position the end of the sheet of drywall – with its finished side facing down – at the center of the ceiling board (joist) to which you are going to nail it. Nail around the outside of the panel about a half an inch from the edges to prevent the drywall from splitting or cracking. The person who is holding the panel can now move or, if you’re using a jack, you can move it out of the way.

Make It Pretty

Countersink nails or screws at six- or seven-inch intervals all along the length of the joist to which the drywall has been attached. Countersinking allows you to cover up the heads of the nails/screws with compound so that when you paint, the heads won’t be at all visible. Although not really a part of knowing how to build a drywall ceiling, learning how to cover up ugly nail or screw heads serves its own purpose for overall general carpentry knowledge.

Learning how to build a drywall ceiling takes a lot more muscle than to attach the sheets to the walls, but it can be done with a little thought, at least one other person, and/or a jack. It really is pretty hard work, but, hey, after all – you can do anything, right?

How to Treat Scratched Prefinished Hardwood Floors

It’s a fact: No matter how tough the finish on your new prefinished floor, in time it will be scratched. Scratches on hardwood floors are an inevitability, and can result in major damage if left untreated. While the finished floor is resistant to moisture and decay, when a scratch gets deep enough to expose unfinished wood it more easily allows moisture and dirt to reach the wood. In time, this can lead to permanent damage..

Luckily, there are a few simple steps you can take to treat scratched prefinished floors. These steps are often used by novices to spot-treat floors, but if you are uncomfortable or unsure of your ability, don’t hesitate to call a professional.

Disclaimer: It is always a good idea to test the repair procedure on an extra piece of flooring or an inconspicuous area of the floor before attempting a large project.

Scratches vs. Gouges

There is a difference between scratches and a gouge. Scratches are light, surface-deep blemishes that can usually be repaired or refinished fairly easily. Gouges are the flesh-wounds of hardwood flooring blemishes. A serious gouge is one that has reached deep into the unfinished wood and can’t be filled with a basic finish. Boards with gouges need to be replaced entirely. If you believe your flooring has gouges, contact a hardwood flooring professional.

Repairing Scratched Floors

Gently remove finish on scratch.

The first step in repairing a scratched prefinished floor is to gently remove the finish on and immediately around the scratch. Both steel wool and fine sandpaper work well. Be careful not to add new scratches during this process – sanding along the grain of the wood helps prevent this. Sand only until the scratch has disappeared or is barely visible.

Clean the affected area.

All dust produced from the sanding should be completely removed and the affected area cleaned with rubbing alcohol or a light soap/water mixture. Don’t get the area too wet, though, as it will take longer to dry and could seep into the wood and cause a stain.

If necessary, fill the scratch.

If it was a deep scratch, you may need to use wood filler to hide it completely. Remember to choose filler that matches the color of your floor. Using a plastic putty knife, smooth the filler into the scratch and wipe off any excess before it dries. Wait for the filler to harden. If there is excess filler still present, carefully sand it away.

Apply a new coat of finish.

At this point, the scratch should be gone and the affected area should be clean. Next, carefully apply a new coat of finish to only the affected area. A small paint brush is a great tool for this part of the process.

Let it dry.

Now, you wait. It’s a good idea to cover the affected area with a plastic tarp or garbage bag. This prevents any dust or debris from getting into the newly applied finish and being trapped there forever.

If done correctly, the repaired area should blend in nicely with the rest of the floor. If the scratch was too large, or was actually a gouge, you may need to replace the board. Luckily, prefinished flooring is designed in such a way that single boards are easy to replace. You can even do it yourself if you have extra flooring materials left over from installation.

Of course, the best way to fix a scratched floor is to prevent it from happening in the first place. Place area rugs in high-traffic rooms, clip pets’ toenails, and place felt pads under the legs of large furnishings.