The Advantages of a Dental Bridge

There are several methods for replacing a missing tooth, including a dental implant, dentures, or a dental bridge. A quick fix that is relatively inexpensive is called a dental bridge.

Because something has to hold the replacement tooth (called a pontic) in place, a bridge attaches to the two adjacent teeth. The dentist can construct both a permanent and a temporary bridge. Depending upon which you prefer or your particular situation, the dentist will recommend one over the other.

There are two basic types of bridges available. The first type requires the permanent alteration of your adjacent teeth. The tooth on either side of the gap must be trimmed back substantially. The altered teeth will have a permanent crown mounted on them. The bridge will then span the gap, holding the artificial tooth.

The second type of bridge is often called a Maryland bridge. It does not permanently alter the teeth on either side of the gap. Instead, the dentist will permanently attach the pontic by using “wings” that attach to the rear of the adjacent teeth. Depending upon where in your mouth the replacement tooth is located, the bridge could have two or four wings holding it secure.

There are two drawbacks to a Maryland bridge. First, it is weaker than the other type of bridge and is prone to breaking or coming unglued. Second, the replacement tooth cannot be translucent. Due to the metal wiring behind it, a translucent tooth could be unsightly. In addition, the metal wiring tends to cast a grey hue over the adjacent teeth. There is a replacement tooth available that is reinforced with natural-colored plastic wings, but it is substantially more expensive. However, considering it is your smile we are talking about, the additional cost may be worth it for you.

A non-wire bridge usually requires two dental appointments. At the first appointment, the dentist will shave or trim the adjacent teeth in preparation for the bridge. He will then take a mold of your teeth, which his laboratory will use to create the artificial tooth and crowns comprising the bridge. The dentist will install a temporary bridge while you are waiting for yours to be custom crafted.

On your return visit, the dentist will remove your temporary bridge and throw it away. He will then install your custom bridge, permanently cementing it into place.

After your new bridge has been installed, you may experience hot and cold sensitivity from the teeth adjacent to the artificial tooth. That sensitivity should dissipate within a week. If you experience any substantial pain or discomfort, return to your dentist so he can ensure nothing is wrong with the bridge or its installation.

Bridges are not expected to last your lifetime. If properly cared for, a bridge can last anywhere from ten to fifteen years. If you would like a more permanent solution to your missing tooth, and you have the money to spend, you should consider a dental implant.

If you have any further questions about a bridge, speak with an expert – any family dentist who can apply his knowledge to your specific needs.

Wire Harness Vs Cable Assembly – What’s the Difference?

Often when sourcing electronics components, the words wire harness and cable assembly are used interchangeably. In truth, the two are actually quite different. If you are sourcing electronic components for product development or manufacturing operations, here is an analysis of wire harness versus cable assembly, so you can discern the difference in the future.

What is a Cable Assembly?

Cable assemblies are composed of a wire cable, or a group of wire cables, covered by an exterior sheath. This sheath is usually made from shrink-wrapped thermoplastic, thermoplastic rubber, or vinyl. There are a number of different materials used for sheathing the cable, however what sets a cable assembly apart from other components is that the sheathing lies on the exterior of the cable. This layer is usually an additional sheathing around the rubber or plastic insulation that coats the individual wires within the assembly.

This sheathing protects the assembly and the wires inside it from heat, friction and abrasion, moisture, compression and any other hazard the assembly might face. This makes it particularly useful for outdoor applications, since it is highly resistant to elements in the environment. For this reason, cable assemblies are most often used in industries where the cables will be exposed to the elements, such as military and oilfield electronics and major security installations.

Additionally, many manufacturers prefer to use cable assemblies over wire harnesses because they are bundles into a neat, convenient package to make it easier to route cables around equipment and components. Connectors can also be molded and sheathed to optimize its protective qualities. The disadvantage of cable is that they are usually quite large and heavy. Also, the extra layer of sheathing usually necessitates a higher price tag for these components.

What is a Wire Harness?

A wire or conductor is usually made of a highly conductive metal such as copper. A wire harness is an individual metal strand, or group of metal strands covered by an exterior sheath. Usually this sheath is made from the same thermoplastic or thermoset material that serves as sheathing for cable assemblies. This is what sets wire apart from cable. The wire only has one heat-wrapped sheath around the conductive strands. Cable then takes those plastic coated wires, bundles them together and yet another sheathing is applied to the exterior.

The advantages of using wire harnesses is that they are smaller and lighter, and can be sourced at a lower cost to manufacturing operations, since less material and labor are required. However, these are a poor replacement to cable when it comes to protection against environmental threats. Wires are poorly insulated and not secured, making it harder to snake them around various obstacles. Wire harnesses are often used in applications where the wire will be protected by an exterior shell. Primarily these are used inside products and equipment, such as computers, cars, and even airplanes.

When designing new electronics or sourcing the best materials for your oilfield, military, security, and even healthcare operations, knowing whether to use cable or wire is critical to mitigating manufacturing costs. Additionally, having this knowledge will help you ensure that your products and equipment functions without fail.

The Different TV Mounting Devices – Mounting Your TV So it Doesn’t End Up on the Floor

Most of the televisions nowadays need mounting devices so they stay fixed on the wall, above a fireplace or other locations in your room. It is up to you how you want to mount your TV: fixed on the wall, or allowing it to tilt horizontally and/or vertically, all is possible provided you bought the proper mounting brackets for your particular TV set.

Before you go out buying the device and end up with your TV falling on the floor or with it being bigger or much smaller than your brackets, here are the main types that you need to be aware of.

The low profile mounts – these are also called flush mount brackets. They are maybe the cheapest types out there are the easiest to install. These devices will hold your TV fixed to the wall allowing no movement whatsoever. Think of these as hanging your painting on the wall, they have the very same effect.

The tilting wall mounts – these are better than the previous type because they do allow some vertical movement. You can actually tilt your television up to 20 degrees up or down. However you can’t tilt it left or right at all, so if you have the TV at an angle from where you’re sitting, this mount type might not be the best for you. Of course their price is a bit higher than that of the low profile mounts due to the added tilting features.

The full motion or swivel mounting devices – these are the types that allow every movement for your TV, be it horizontal or vertical. They have quite some complex features but of course they cost the most from 3 three types. But if you’re walking around in the kitchen going about your business, this is the mount type you need to get, as you can simply move it with your hand quite easily in the direction that you’re heading towards. The device sits up to 20″ away from the wall, thus allowing for easy movement all around.

Knowing all this, you also need to take the proper TV screen measurements so you don’t end up with a much bigger or smaller set. Finally you need to know the weight of your television. Some mounts have a weight limit and in order to avoid having your TV at some point falling to the ground due to the extra weight, you’d better tell your sales person your television weight.

Top 5 Hammer Drills

A look at why these drills are on the top 5 list.

The Milwaukee ½-inch hammer drill offers many great features that has put in on the top list. The drill offers a pistol grip dual torque with 0-1350/0-2500 RPM. The 7.5 AMPS is perfect for drilling ½ in holes in concrete, making the job much easier. The dual range speed control provides users with the ability to choose the power they need according to the project they are undertaking. The side handle is removable which is added plus, that can help in setting the depth rod to allow preset hole drilling. The drill can be used in wood, selfeed bits, auger bits, hole saws, and flat boring bits. Other features include reversing Hammer with rotation, 10 ft. Fixed Trigger Lock, and 3-3/4″ Metal Capacity-Twist Bit.

Hitachi 1 1/2 inch Spline Rotary Hammer offers a sealed grease system that provides less maintenance than other drills along with a dust proof cover to help ensure that maintenance is minimal. The 5.2 feet pounds of impact energy provides high speed drilling along with forcible chipping. The drill offers two modes of use for better flexibility. The carbon brush system has an auto stop that helps to prolong the life of the tool as well as protect armature. The removable handle is a great option providing accurate drilling depth and better control.

The Hilti 18 volt Rotary Hammer Drill Performance Package is a complete package offering a 1.6-Ah CPC lithium ion battery, 18-volt cordless rotary hammer drills, two batteries, along with a charger. Not only this but more comes in the package including 3 Hilti’s SDS drill bits with sizes ½ inch, ¼ inch, and 3/8 inch.

The Industrial Rotary Hammer offers voltage frequency of 110 volt, 60HG input power, and 1 HP hammer frequency. Features of the drill include aluminum body which makes it light weight, high constant power up to 1 HP, 38mm hammer drilling, metal storage case, and auto stop carbon brushes.

The DEWALT 18-Volt Cordless Compact Hammer Drill/Driver is one of those tools that can do just about everything. It can handle wood, steel, concrete, and masonry. The high performance frameless motor makes all tasks fast and easy from drilling to fastening. The drill offers a nice grip and speed control, which helps with both lessening fatigue, and better job specific performance. The kit comes with more than just the drill making it an even better deal with a screwdriver bit, two 18-volt NiCad batteries, and a 1-hour NiCad charger along with the kit box.

Mosaic Tile – Things You Want to Know!

Mosaic Tile is a great option for home-makers to easily redecorate any surface at home. These nature-made panels are so versatile that they can easily stimulate your creativeness providing you countless remodeling ideas and opportunities. Want to learn more about easy do-it-yourself tiling options? Read the following article.

Short background

Mosaic Tile is created by assembling together seamless smooth stones that are manually sorted and then glued onto a sq/ft mesh backing. The seashores of S. East Asia are rich with these flat pebbles, and indeed most of these tiles are originated from that part of the world. It is important to remember that you can easily remodel almost any surface in the inside or the outside: Shower bases & backsplashes, kitchen walls & countertops, sink walls, and floors.

Main advantages

What is in it for us?

* Made of natural durable stones that hold for many years ahead.

* Saves extra expenses on hiring a professional installer.

* Impervious to water and other liquids.

Helpful advices!

* In order to maintain these natural stones properly, it is recommended to apply sealants every two to three years.

* If you want to enhance the color of the stones transforming it glossy or matte finish, use natural stone color enhancer right before applying the sealer.

* Test the sealers on an area first to ensure it is giving you the result you want and is compatible with the stone tiles.

Article summary

Mosaic Tile remodeling is undoubtedly considered as one of the ‘hottest’ true do-it-yourself tiling techniques. We could list many other important pluses provided by this stylish home redecoration option, simply because any home-maker can use it at minimal effort. Although this is a quick review, it is highly recommended to remember the above tips and advices once you prepare for installation.

Cleaning Tips For Your Crystal Chandeliers

Crystal chandeliers surely offer a touch of elegance to any room in the house. In spite of their stylish appearance, they can eventually become an eyesore if proper maintenance is not performed. Plus, the illumination wouldn’t also be as efficient as you would expect because of all the accumulated filth.

The task of dusting and polishing crystal chandeliers may seem daunting for a handful of obvious reasons. First of all, they’re normally mounted way up. Rich folks that live in mansions usually have their lighting fixtures installed on super-high ceilings, whereas middle-class houses typically have ceilings that are lower in height.

The second most likely reason is the fact that these fixtures are fragile and, often, expensive. Then again, isn’t this all the more reason to properly clean up your crystal chandelier? Instead of repeatedly postponing its regular maintenance, try wiping it clean on your own. It’s actually easy, if you only know how.

There are two ways on how to get on with cleaning crystal chandeliers. You can choose between a quick clean up and a thorough one. But before you begin sprucing up your home’s centerpiece, you should at least see to it that you have an alternate light source set up first. Also, make sure that the chandelier’s power is switched off to avoid electrical shock.

Quick-And-Easy Cleanup

This method is suitable for people who don’t have that much time for chandelier cleaning. Nevertheless, this is a fine way to maintain the shipshape appearance of crystal chandeliers without the need to exert a great deal of effort.

First of all, cover the light bulbs using sandwich bags before getting down to the cleaning part. Next, you need to position a drop cloth beneath the chandelier to avoid drenching the floor with liquid. You may also use old newspapers if you have any.

For the main part of the chore, you may use your preferred glass cleaner and just spray, spray, spray. There’s actually no need for you to scrub the crystal pieces or disassemble any parts. All you need to do from this point on is to let the liquid trickle off and wait for the chandelier to completely dry up.

Thorough Cleanup

Every now and then, crystal chandeliers need more than a quick cleanup. Luckily, you can make use of this practical guide on how to go about with the task.

For starters, remove the light bulbs and put them away for a while. Then lay a folded cloth over the bottom of a dishpan half-filled with lukewarm water. Put in an adequate amount of detergent powder and swish up to form soapsuds.

After that, fill up another pan with hot, rinsing water. Don’t forget to place a layer of cloth at the bottom of the pan to prevent breakage of the fine glass. Then, add a few drops of ammonia for additional sparkle.

Take off the crystal drops and saucers a few pieces at a time. Then soak them in the sudsy water you’ve prepared earlier. Rinse the parts and pat them dry. Put them back to where they’re supposed to go and remove the remaining chandelier parts. Repeat the cleaning process until the entire piece is spotless.

Using a cloth that was soaked and squeezed out of soapsuds, wipe the arm of the chandelier. To finish off, gently clean and rinse the light bulbs you’ve stored away earlier. Then pat them dry and place them back into their sockets. So you see, the maintenance of crystal chandeliers isn’t that difficult after all.

Garden Tools – Are You Missing Some of the Essential Gardening Tools?

Every gardener has a set of tools he or she cannot do without. These supplies are as very much a part of the gardener as the flowers and plants he or she grows. Among the many gardening supplies, the essentials are the shovel, spade, hoe and prying bar. Add to these a hardy wheelbarrow and some watering cans or a garden hose.

Shovels are useful and versatile and they are able to handle a variety of chores. A gardener depends on their shovel to help dig up daylilies and rose bushes. This garden tool is also helpful when compost needs to be spread about or when holes need to be dug for new plants. The garden spade is smaller and is commonly used to help prepare a garden or flower bed.

There is no better tool than the hoe when it comes to removing weeds and working in a vegetable garden. This lightweight instrument is perfectly suited for cultivating the soil in both flower beds and veggie plots. People depend upon a prying bar to help them remove stones and rocks from their freshly tilled soil. This makes the work of gardening much easier to handle. The wheelbarrow is like having an assistant helping you ?fetch and carry? compost, blocks, mulch and other items to the different areas where they are needed. Because mulch and compost is required in so many bedding areas around the yard a wheelbarrow is considered a very essential piece of gardening equipment.

To protect hands from chapping, cuts and scratches, most gardeners prefer to use gardening gloves. These can keep your hands and fingernails free from dirt and protect expensive manicures. You can find gloves that are waterproof and others that are made from heavy leather, It is up to you to select the ones that are most suited for the type of work you are doing. If you are pruning roses or working with thorn bearing plants the elbow length gloves provide the most protection for your hands and arms.

Seeds of flowers, vegetables, and herbs are as much a part of the garden as the soil in which they grow. Ornamental accessories such as decorated flower pots, flower baskets, and water fountains also serve to enhance.

There can be no thriving garden without clean water and sunlight. Lightweight watering cans with the long spouts are the perfect way to sprinkle a gentle shower of water over young plants and new seedlings. For larger sections of land a good garden hose with an adjustable sprayer is an efficient and reliable way to give the plants and soil the water that they need.

Locate the greenhouse in a healthy dose of sunlight. All-day sunlight is best, but morning sunlight coming from the east side would do for most plants. Morning sunlight allows the plant’s food production process known as photosynthesis to start early such that growth becomes maximized. Lighting supplies contribute just the right amount of heat and moisture for plants to thrive.

Tools need a storage shed so that they can be arranged neatly and be protected from rain and snow. Storage sheds can be used for gardening tasks as well. If your shed is large enough you could even place a potting bench. This would give you some additional storage space and the smooth work surface could be used for a variety of chores including re-potting your plants. When the day ends it is time for all happy gardeners to call it a night, put things away and prepare for a new day.

Digging a Water Well on Your Property

Water wells are a great addition to your property in both decor and utility savings, but there are a few things you need to know before you just “start digging”. Although the most common method people have used for millennia to dig wells is to simply…dig them, it’s easier said than done. It has more often than not been a community effort where all the able-bodied men in the village would gather to dig.

In other words, it’s not exactly a one-man job if you know what I mean. Digging your well manually is probably the surest, cheapest way – but the time and effort it takes to do so can make these benefits seem all but ridiculous. Other alternatives use drills, hammers, and various machines. But let’s say you’re in for some long-term fun and want to give it a shot. Alright…if you say so. In any case, now’s not the time to be short on friends. Call all your buddies and put a spade in their hands!

But before you start getting your hands dirty, you’re gonna need to know the more technical side of digging a well. The general concept is to dig down to the nearest groundwater or aquifer. But how do we know where and IF there is groundwater? Good question. Theoretically, there is groundwater of some kind pretty much everywhere in the world – the catch is the depth at which it’s located! In your case, you’d better pray to God it’s not too deep.

There are 2 broad well-classifications:

1. Shallow or unconfined. This will most likely be the first aquifer you’ll hit upon digging. Although these water reserves can be reached and extracted without too much ado, there are several potential drawbacks. Due to its shallow depths and “unconfined” nature, there is more risk of contamination and/or salinity. Also, being that it’s the point of uppermost saturation, it’s a considerably more unstable water source and may dry up during certain times of the year depending on location.

2. Deep or confined. These aquifers are what you would ideally be going for, although rather unrealistic digging with pick and shovel. They are located between 2 impermeable strata which must be penetrated before you can access it. Due to its depth and “confined” nature, there is a considerably lower risk of contamination – although it will still be “hard water” and may need to be softened before drinking.

Deciding whether you’ll dig a confined or unconfined well is great and all, but finding out other details such as just how deep the water table is in your given location, recharge area and rate, as well as your local seasonal patterns before excavation can save you a lot of time and effort – as not every back yard is an ideal water well location. This is done via geophysical imaging, and you may need to call in the cavalry for this one.

Fast-forward to the next step. So you’ve determined that your land is suitable for a water well and are itching to get started. You should select a site for your well that is conveniently located and can be accessible from the places of your choosing – such as your kitchen or garden. Having a storm drain of some kind nearby would be ideal to dispose of waste. Once you’ve chosen a good place for your well, you can begin excavation.

This step is relatively straight-forward and simply consists of digging, digging, and more digging. The diameter can vary but will need to comfortably fit at least one digger. The obvious safety issue is that of the sides collapsing on the workers as they dig. This is a very real danger and serious measures must be taken to ensure safety. Traditionally, various forms of bracing were used such as planks of wood pinned against the walls with wooden rods spanning the diameter.

Modern techniques incorporate reinforced concrete “rings” made slightly smaller than the diameter of the well. These rings will sink with gravity as the hole gets deeper and additional rings are added until the aquifer is reached. You’ll need men to both dig and pull up excavated material. Taking turns inside the hole is advised as this will help maintain optimal digging speed. Once the well is dug, you can top it up with a wall style of your choosing.

And there you have it. Building a roof over it is a good idea to prevent contaminated rain water from getting in, and you should also have a good tight lid to keep over it when not in use! You don’t want anything falling in your well that shouldn’t be there. Having this lid installed over the opening that can be unlatched during water extraction will keep a curious child from accidentally falling in.

And if you do dig deep enough – which with pick and shovel is highly doubtful – to hit a confined aquifer, you should be mindful of its hydraulic head. An “Artesian well” is a well whose “hydraulic head” is higher than the level of the top of the aquifer. In simple terms it’s the potential pressure of the water. This means that the water pressure will cause the water to spring out naturally creating a “fountain” of sorts. Hmm, nice for tourism but possibly impractical for a household.

Create an Elevator Speech For Personal Branding

The elevator speech is a simple and effective way to market your personal brand. Also called elevator pitch, the elevator speech is an overview of who you are and what you do. It highlights your strengths and qualities that make you unique and worth remembering. It is named as such because the idea is that you need to be able to present yourself in a short period of time, such as a typical ride in an elevator in which you have limited time to market yourself in a group of people.

What makes a good elevator speech? It does not have to be a long story of your life and experiences. If you meet someone in an event and he or she asks “What do you do?”, your response should be a summary about yourself and your skills in order to leave a lasting impression. You need to tell something that will pique his or her interest.

Start your elevator speech with a hook. This is a catchy statement that will grab people’s attention and make them interested in what you are going to say.

Focus on your strengths. Take note that you will be competing with a lot of people who are also trying to market themselves, so create and maintain a competitive edge by highlighting the qualities that set you apart from the competition.

Know your target market. Identify their needs, interests, and preferences. In building and promoting your personal brand, you must be able to present something that will be beneficial to your target audience.

Be confident. Speak with a firm voice. A good speech must be presented with confidence. Otherwise, it will be useless.

End your elevator speech with a call to action. You can ask for their business cards, or ask if they are willing to accommodate you in their company for a detailed presentation.

May these tips help you in creating a good and effective elevator speech. Just be confident and always be ready with your speech so you will know what to say when an opportunity comes your way.

Plate Form Dental Implants

If your missing teeth are causing you discomfort, then dental implants could be a suitable tooth restoration option for you. Commonly known as teeth implants, dental implants are tiny metal anchors that are fitted in a jaw to hold up prosthetic crowns. There are a number of different types of dental implants. Two of the most common forms of teeth implants are root form implants and plate form implants. While root form implants are thin, long metal screws shaped like tooth roots, plate are shaped like small blades. This article will tell you more about plate form implants.

What are plate form implants?

Plate form implants are also known as blade implants. They are generally used on patients who have low quantity and quality of bone in the jaw. In some cases, patients may naturally possess a very narrow jaw bone. In other cases, a patient’s bone may wear away as a result of conditions like bone atrophy, or factors like old age or poor nutrition. When a patient visits a dentist for a consultation regarding dental implants, the dentist will conduct a thorough assessment to determine their suitability for teeth implants.

If upon examination, it is learnt that a patient has insufficient bone quantity, and that the area is not suitable for bone grafting, a dentist may advise plate form implants. Unlike root form implants that may be too wide for placement in thin ridges of bone, plate form implants have a flat and long shape, enabling them to fit into narrow jawbone quite easily.

The procedure for fitting plate implants is similar to that for root form implants. After application of an anaesthetic, the dentist will conduct minor surgery to uncover the jawbone where the teeth implants will be placed. After suitably preparing the bone to accept the shape of the implant, the blade implants are carefully fitted in the jaw. The gums are then stitched up and left to heal for a certain period, during which the bone will osseointegrate with the teeth implants.

Situated in the heart of London, the Harley Street Dental Clinic has a team of highly skilled dentists who specialise in fitting plate form dental implants. The goal of the team at our clinic in London is to offer all our patients excellent implant treatment, through careful assessment and planning. At the Harley Street Dental Clinic, we are committed to painless dentistry, and provide the highest level of comfort to all our patients.

Alcohol Camping Stoves Are the Smallest, Lightest and Easiest Backpacking Stoves Around

Alcohol camping stoves are the perfect choice for the backpacker looking for a small, lightweight, easy-to-use and inexpensive stove.

The alcohol camping stoves are very simple, they have very little moving parts, no jets or orifices to clog and clean. Alcohol is a renewable resource and is a non-petroleum based product. If you have a spill in your backpack, it will evaporate quickly, leaving no tell-tale odor. It’s the perfect “green” fuel.

Ok, let’s look at the pros and cons for the alcohol camping stoves…

PRO

  1. Simple – No Pumping, Pressurizing, Priming or Pre-lighting.
  2. Fuel – Renewable, Evaporates quickly, Burns clean (no soot), Not oily or smelly.
  3. Lightweight – Can weigh as little as a few ounces.
  4. Reliable – They light first time every time, as long as you guard your match against the wind.
  5. Safety – Fuel evaporates quickly and will not explode (non-inflammable).
  6. Fuel Transport – Easy; can be carried in a plastic bottle. Do not use an untreated aluminum bottle. If you’re not sure, don’t use it. See the note at the bottom of the page.
  7. Fuel Availability – Everywhere; can be found in drug stores to hardware stores.
  8. Noise – Very quiet and generally cannot be heard. This can also be a con.

CON

  1. Noise – As I said above, being quiet can be a pro or a con. Pro in that it is quiet, but a Con because you sometimes cannot tell if you have a flame or not.
  2. Flame – Alcohol burns clear (slightly bluish) and this makes it very difficult to see. Especially in the daylight.
  3. Heat Output – Alcohol camping stoves put out about half of the heat per ounce other liquid fuel stoves produce, i.e. white gas, kerosene, Coleman style fuels, and butane or propane.
  4. Group Size – A small group of 1 or 2, maybe 3, is best, because of the slower cooking time. This isn’t really a con, but it is something to consider.
  5. Cooking Time – Is slower because of the reduced heat output, but for 1 or 2 people it is just fine.
  6. Safety – NEVER, NEVER fill the stove with more fuel while it is still burning or hot. This actually goes for ALL stove types.
  7. Cold – Alcohol camping stoves are not very reliable in freezing weather. As the temperature drops, the evaporation rate of the alcohol drops. This makes them very hard to start. A work-around for this is to pre-heat the stove with a candle.
  8. Durability – Since they are so small and lightweight, they can be fragile. They can be bent, crushed or destroyed easily without the proper care.

Do-It-Yourself (DIY): Alcohol camping stoves are perfect for the DIY crowd. The internet is full of instructions on how to make an alcohol camping stove.

FUEL

  1. Isopropyl – NOT Recommended. This can be purchased from any drug store, but it will always have too much water mixed with it. It’s never just pure alcohol.
  2. Denatured – This fuel comes mixed with other poisonous chemicals. Many times the label will say that it is suitable for marine stoves. I would go with that brand. Another way to tell if the denatured that you have will be any good, is to burn some of it in a metal dish and check for any residue left behind. Do not use it if there is any residue.
  3. Grain – Alcohol works well, but can be expensive. Stay away from the colored grain alcohols and go for the clear such as the Everclear brand. Keep in mind that you brought it to use in the stove and not to keep your belly warm. P.S. This is the only fuel than can be consumed by humans. ALL the others are poisonous.
  4. Methyl – Other names are methanol, wood alcohol, methyl hydrate, liquid fondue fuel, gasoline line antifreeze. This is a highly poisonous fuel. However, methanol evaporates faster than ethanol at all temperatures and you would have a better chance of starting your stove in cold weather. Store this fuel and the stove that uses it from your food and pots.
  5. Gelled Alcohol – Such as Sterno, Canned Heat, Jelled Alcohol. This is good for keeping food warm, but not for cooking. Not enough heat output.
  6. Diethylene Glycol – Extremely poisonous and is Not Recommended.

Types of Alcohol Camping Stoves

  1. Open Flame – This is the simplest of all the alcohol camping stoves. It’s basically an open shallow metal container that you pour the alcohol in and you light it. The pot is sitting on a wire frame above the stove. They are simple to build and operate, but are not the most efficient with the fuel to heat ratio. However, they are a very reliable stove.
  2. Chimney or Updraft – This style of stove utilizes the updraft created by the heat of the fire, up a chimney, to the top of the stove and heating the pot. It mixes the air with the fuel at the bottom of the stove to get a better controlled flame at the top. The pot sits on a stand above the stove. It has a good heat output and is very reliable.
  3. Low Pressure Side Burner – This utilizes the low pressure draft created like the Chimney stove, but the pot sits directly on the stove. Same stove as the Chimney stove, just a different way of using it. It has good heat output and does not need a pot stand.
  4. Open Jet – This stove works by vaporizing the fuel and shooting it out little jets. The fuel is poured in through the top center; it is very lightweight and will simmer, but is only good for small pots. You will need to have a pot stand to keep the pot off the stove.
  5. Hybrid Side Burner Jet – This is like the Open Jet, but the vents are on the side. The pot sits right on the stove top so a pot stand is not needed.
  6. Pressurized Jet – This is like the Open Jet stove, but the center is closed allowing the fuel gasses to build up pressure. It burns hot and does not allow for simmering. You will need a pot stand for this stove.

Points to Consider

  1. Consider making an alcohol camping stove for yourself.
  2. Are you going to be doing a lot of extreme cold weather cooking?
  3. Burner style – You do not have to settle for just one style. You can have a different style depending on weather conditions and/or altitude.
  4. Boil time to fuel usage ratio – This ratio is how long does it take to boil 1L of water to how much fuel is used. This is very important when you are determining how much fuel to carry with you.
  5. Flame control – Do you want to be able to simmer or not?
  6. Size of group – Remember that 1-2 people are best per stove.

Note: Aluminum: “SIGG, one of the oldest and largest manufacturers of reusable aluminum bottles, actually lines their aluminum with an FDA approved coating that prevent toxins from leaching.” According to Elizabeth Borelli of Nubius Organics.

Slow Cooker Reviews – Best Slow Cooker, Cheap Crock Pot

It turns out the best slow cooker is also a cheap crock pot!

The clear winner across three categories, the best selling slow cooker, the best selling crock pot and the best selling programmable slow cooker; it was awarded 4 or more Stars by 85% of customer reviewers, and can be purchased online (free shipping included) at an affordable price!

It has several note worthy unique features, it has automatic cook and switch to warm mode, power interrupt protection, a clip-tight gasket lid (to avoid spills in on the upholstery on the way to the gathering), and a thermometer probe that enables you to cook your roast or recipe until an exact temperature is reached and then the unit switches automatically to warm mode. You will never again have to worry about under done, unsafe or over cooked, dry, stringy meat – your roasts will be cooked to perfection every time and then kept warm until you are ready to carve. Plus you will never need to worry about your dinner spoiling if you are later home than when the meal is due to finish cooking, with the cook and hold feature.

This popular model is a 6 quart programmable slow cooker, which is a popular size for both one person cooking and families. A 6 quart cooks up 9 servings of soup, chili or casserole style dishes, or one or two roast weighing up to 7 pounds together. The programmable part of this description means you program into the LED display how long you want the recipe to cook for and then it cooks it and holds it in warm mode until you are ready to eat. Singles and smaller families enjoy the benefits of being able to have several meals worth cooked at once, with the left overs being frozen for serving later – a smart use of electricity and a great time saver.

So if you lead a busy life an need to come home to the main part of the meal already done, and sometimes you can’t guarantee you will be home exactly when you think you will, the cook and hold function will be an essential feature you will enjoy.

If you need to take hot food to pot luck dinners or for family holiday dinners, tail gating or to the football, the locking gasket lid will be a feature you need.

Do you family prefer to eat roast meats rather than casseroles? Cooking with this slow cooker in probe mode is going to cook the meat perfectly and then hold it on warm until you are ready to serve it. What a great feature!

Or maybe you live in an area that is prone to power fluctuations, in which case the power interruption protection offered with this model may give some peace of mind. The unit remembers its settings and returns to them if the power interruption is 5 seconds or less.

To find out which of the hundreds of slow cookers on the market today is the magnificent model I’ve reviewed, check out Slow Cooker Reviews here.

Installing Exterior Vinyl Shutters on a Brick House

Installing exterior vinyl shutters is usually a simple, straightforward task when installing on wood or siding. However, if you are installing plastic shutters on a brick surface, some things need to be taken into consideration.

First of all, some bricks are reinforced with metal. This makes it an extremely difficult task to drill through the brick. I tried this once and it took me all day just to mount 3 pairs of shutters because I had to continually switch back and fourth between a masonry drill bit and a steel drill bit.

Another thing to consider is that the life of the house will probably be longer than the life of the vinyl shutters. It is quite possible that the person who buys the house from you (whenever that day may be) won’t like the shutters and will want to take them down. Alternatively they may wish to install operable exterior shutters in their place. So we must be sure to make removing them in the future an easy process.

Both of these problems can be solved by drilling into the mortar between the bricks instead of into the bricks themselves. The main reason for this is because it is much easier to patch the mortar than it is to fill and match the color and texture of the bricks.

The next thing to consider is whether you want a permanent installation or if you would like the option to take your window shutters down. The primary reason why you would want to take down your vinyl shutters would be to paint the house. Since brick typically is not painted a permanent installation will suffice in most situations. However, if part or your entire mounting surface is painted you may wish to make them removable for future maintenance. To mount the shutters permanently, you can order vinyl exterior shutters with shutter-loks (sometimes called shutter locks or shutter plugs). To make a removable installation, you can get painted metal screws to mount your window shutters and use some masonry anchors to hold them in place.

Finally, you will also need to take into consideration the construction of the house. If the window has a slope sill you will need to leave a 1/4 inch gap between the sill and the bottom of the shutter to allow rain, snow, and ice to drain from the window. If you have a brick mold you will need to order the correct size of exterior shutters to stretch from the top to the bottom of the window opening.

You will need the following items to complete the installation:

1. Tape measure

2. Power drill, steel and masonry drill bits

3. Sawhorses

4. Square

5. Pencil

6. Vinyl shutters

7. Either shutter-loks and or painted steel screws with masonry anchors

8. Hammer

9. Phillips screwdriver (for painted screws only)

For vinyl shutters that are 55 inches or larger, you will need to use 6 shutter-loks or painted steel screws. If the shutter panel is less than 55 inches, 4 mounting fasteners will suffice.

To get started, hold one panel of the vinyl shutters in position next to the window in the position you would like it mounted. The shutter should be as close to the window opening as possible. Now, you will need to use a pencil to mark the center of the mortar in each of the 4 (or 6) mounting locations. Keep in mind that you will need to leave a 2 to 5 inch gap on the top and the bottom of the shutter above and below the mounting fastener. So for example if the first mortar line is less than 2 inches down from the top of the shutter, you should use mark the second mortar line as the point on the shutter where you will need to drill. Just mark the side of the plastic shutter in the 4 (or 6) locations where the center of the mortar lines are.

Now, set the vinyl shutter face up on the sawhorses. Using the mark on the side as a guide, lay the square across the top of the shutter with one end of it hanging over the side pointing downward toward the ground. You are only using this as a guide to mark the drilling location on the front side of the exterior shutter based on the markings you placed on the side that indicate where the mortar lines are. The stiles (or rails) for vinyl shutters are typically 2 to 4 inches in width. Using the square as a guide, draw a small line across the face of the stile and then use the tape measure to mark the precise location of the mounting hole (exactly in the center of the stile). Repeat this until all of the holes are marked.

If you decided to use shutter-loks to install your vinyl shutters, you need to drill a 1/4 inch hole at each of the locations using a steel drill bit. For the removable installation, use an 11/64 inch steel drill bit to drill the holes in the vinyl exterior shutter at the locations you marked.

Place the shutter against the surface of the house and use the pencil to mark the center of the hole (which should also be in the center of the mortar). Be sure the vinyl shutter doesn’t slip while you mark all of the locations.

Now remove the exterior shutter. If you are using shutter locks you will need a 1/4 inch masonry bit. For painted screws you will need to use the correct size masonry bit for the anchors you purchased. Drill at each of the 4 (or 6) locations you marked.

For shutter-loks, make sure that the hole is at least 1 3/4 inches deep. For painted screws you should drill 2 inches deep. It is better to drill a little bit over to ensure they don’t bottom out because starting over is not particularly easy and requires new shutter-loks.

To finish the shutter-lok installation, place the shutter against the wall in the final location and push the shutter-loks through the vinyl shutter and into the hole in the wall. If you can’t push it all the way in, use a hammer to gently tap it until it just touches the surface of the vinyl shutter. Be sure to leave a little bit of play to allow for expansion and contraction.

When mounting with painted screws and anchors you should drill 2 inches deep into the mortar. Using a hammer, tap the anchors into the holes in the mortar. Finally, place the shutter against the surface and put the screws through the vinyl exterior shutters into the masonry anchors and tighten the screws with the screwdriver. Do not over tighten them – the vinyl shutters should not dimple.

Repeat each of the steps for the other panels of your exterior vinyl shutters.

Stepping Up to Wide Plank Flooring

With the wide selection of wood species, don’t settle for common, production narrow strip-width oak flooring. Imagine your rooms finished in your favorite wood in extra long, wide distinctive plank floors once found only in historic period homes. The wider plank flooring, in longer lengths portend quality that stands out as a cut above the rest. There is no crisper, cleaner, longer wearing, more attractive floor available.

Common strip-width flooring generally measures 1-1/2 or 2-1/4″ wide; the 1-1/2″ as is often found in late Victorian and turn of the century homes. Plank-width flooring describes flooring measuring 3″ wide, running commonly up to 8″. Depending on wood species, some woods are available even up to 12-14″ wide. Be aware that the wider the boards, the more care should be taken to ensure proper environmental conditions to minimize cupping and separation between boards. Seek an experienced plank-flooring specialist to be sure your plank floors are installed properly.

Suitable to any architecture and decorative style, it can be used throughout the entire house. Hardwood plank floors elevate ordinary rooms to the spectacular. The genial warmth and lustrous personality of wood plank flooring distinguish your home, making it memorable.

Its reputation for quality and durability speaks for itself. Dollar for dollar no other material matches wood’s aesthetic appeal, versatility and practicality. Able to outlast your mortgage, wood plank floors will be attractive long after carpet and other materials have been replaced many times. Perfectly sound one hundred-year old wood plank floors are not uncommon.

It cleans easily. Unlike carpet, wood floors won’t collect molds, pollens, dust mites or mildews or absorb dust and odors. There are no toxic fumes to give off. Making wood plank flooring the perfect choice for the allergy sufferer.

Quality wide plank flooring should be:

· 3/4″-thick;

· Tongue-and-grooved and end-matched;

· Relief plowed on the back for improved stability; and

· Kiln dried to approximately 8% moisture content.

For the most custom, high-quality look, choose to have your floors sanded & finished on site. Pre-finished wood floors generally have micro-bevels between the boards to hide over-wood – a term describing a slight difference in thickness from one board to the next. Site finished floors are smooth and flat with no separation between the boards.

Most plank flooring manufacturers will also carry a large selection of matching paneling, moldings, mantles, doors, cabinets, trusses, beams, and stair parts to compliment the majority of species of plank flooring that they sell. Your local plank-flooring specialist can also offer a wealth of new wood flooring ideas.

Diet Plan For Fatty Liver – 8 Rules To Follow To Reverse FLD

A diet plan for fatty liver should be holistic in its approach to not only improve liver health, but also the overall health of the human body. Everything you consume, good or bad, finds its way through the liver before being distributed to other areas of the body. Performing more than 200 functions, the liver is a critical organ, and a healthy liver generally corresponds to a healthy body.

Fatty liver disease (FLD) results when triglyceride fat makes up more than 5-10% of the liver by weight. Fat accumulates in and around the liver cells (hepatocytes) which causes the liver to become enlarged and heavier. When this happens, some patients complain about abdominal pain and discomfort and the sensation of feeling “stuffed” in their lower torso area on the right side of the body.

For the most part, fatty liver in its earliest stages (simple steatosis) is an asymptomatic condition. Many patients are unaware the condition exists until it worsens. When this happens, symptoms may include weakness and tiredness, nausea, anorexia, confusion, abdominal pain, and jaundice. If not remedied through diet and exercise, FLD can progress to cirrhosis or liver cancer and can become fatal.

A fatty liver cure does not exist. However, this does not mean the condition cannot be treated, slowed, or even reversed. Although alternative treatment methods such as using vitamin C and E, Epsom salts, milk thistle, and a variety of different drugs do exist and are gaining popularity in some medical circles, proper diet and exercise still remains the best way to combat FLD.

The best diets for fatty liver patients follow a few key principles. Here is a quick breakdown that can help you if you have alcoholic or non alcoholic FLD.

  • Focus on foods high in complex carbohydrates such as brown rice and whole grains.
  • Reduce your consumption of refined and simple carbohydrates like those found in sugar, white bread, egg noodles, cakes, and many desserts.
  • Eat plenty of servings of fruits and vegetables every single day. A quick tip: Raw vegetable juices can be extremely healthy for the liver.
  • Stay away from deep fried, fatty, and processed foods, especially processed meats such as sausage and hot dogs.
  • Reduce and limit your consumption of dairy products. When consuming dairy focus on organic yogurts and ricotta and/or cottage cheese. You can also opt for soy and rice milks instead of whole or 2% milks.
  • Margarine, excessive consumption of fatty condiments like salad dressing, sugary fruit juices, energy drinks, and alcohol should all be avoided.
  • Focus on lean white meats such as chicken or turkey instead of beef or pork. Free range meats are best as they don’t contain harmful steroids, growth hormones, and other antibiotics.
  • Drink plenty of water (at least 2 liters per day).