The Residential Use Of Schindler Elevators

The Schindler elevator is one of the major choices for homeowners who are considering the installation of a residential elevator. Actually, the Schindler company started with residential and commercial elevators before going into the design and manufacture of equipment for high-rise buildings, and therefore, they have substantial experience in the design and production of the personal elevator. For the US, the Schindler elevator comes in three varieties, namely: the Schindler 500A Traction Elevator Systems, the Schindler 400A Traction Elevator System, and the Schindler 330 Hydraulic Elevator System.

The Schindler 330A is usually available as a holeless hydraulic elevator, which is suitable for low-rise residential buildings and offers the benefit of being friendly to the environment and to your budget because it does not require the drilling of a jackhole. However, this particular model of the Schindler elevator is also available for standard borehole designs for buildings with higher capacities and rises.

The possible configurations of the Schindler 330A include two to six stops, a maximum height of 48 feet, fixtures that are mounted on the jamb for ease of installation, remote monitoring, front opening doors, side opening doors, and rear opening doors. Some of the benefits of this elevator by the Schindler corporation include complete flexibility, wide range of applications, customer support, ISO certification, ADA compliance, quiet performance and reliable operation.

The Schindler 400A is designed for residential buildings that can have as many as 20 floors. The design of this traction elevator system is such that its footprint is minimized to optimize the use of building space. The benefits of this model is the capacity to travel up to a maximum distance of 200 feet, speeds of 200 feet per minute or 350 per minute, gearless machines, remote monitoring, variable frequency drives, and capacities ranging from 2,100 to 3,500 pounds. The Schindler 500A is designed for middle to high rise residential buildings. It is available with geared or gearless drives, remote monitoring, and shell cabs that allow customization.

For residential homes, the obvious choice is the Schindler 330A with its holeless configuration. For houses with several floors, the residential elevator is a requirement for households with members who are elderly or are physically disabled. Not being limited to the ground floor is a very important feature for these two groups of people. And for couples, the house design can either immediately include the installation of an elevator or have a provision for its installation in the future. With residential lots becoming more and more expensive, a more cost effective alternative is to construct a multi-level home instead of a house with a single floor.

The Schindler elevator, which is produced by a company with a tract record in this particular field, is one of the most reliable products available in the market. Homeowners or those who are planning to build their dream homes may want to consider this particular product if they are considering the installation of an elevator for improving mobility for the residents and market value for the property.

4-Roll Plate Rolls Vs 3-Roll Plate Rolls – Advantages and Disadvantages

Four- roll technology has been around almost since the turn of the century: however, it was impractical, as the improved production did not justify the costs.

With the advances in Fluid Technology this has changed dramatically. It is now possible to buy a four-roll machine for only about 20% more than a three-roll double pinch machine.

Is this an important development to plate roll users? To answer this question, let’s briefly review the functions of the single initial pinch roll, double pinch roll and the basic pyramid roll.

Pyramid Roll:

Unable to pre-bend, must either live with a large flat area at joining point of metal, or use a press brake to pre-bend prior to rolling. Its primary advantage is that it is inexpensive; however, unless you can live with a large flat area on cylinder, it ends up costing you more in terms of secondary equipment and material handling. It is also very difficult to roll cones.

Initial Pinch Roll:

Has pre-bend capability and material can be introduced horizontally. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to do cone bending, and plate has to be removed from machine and rotated 180 degrees in order to pre-bend trailing edge. This is a serious disadvantage as it requires that the plate is squared completely once again, and it is during the squaring operation that many of the mistakes are made that lead to bad parts. It is also responsible for many shop accidents when the plate is being rotated 180 degrees.

Double Pinch Pyramid:

It can pre-bend both ends of a plate without removing plate from machine. The disadvantage is that it takes six different positioning of the rolls to complete a cylinder. Because of the pyramid design, it cannot pre-bend as close to the edge as an initial pinch or a four-roll machine. It is able to roll cones, but with difficulty.

For the purpose of comparison, I will be comparing against the initial pinch and the double pinch rolls.

The pyramid rolls, while they have a place in the market, are not considered when pre-bending is a prerequisite.

The purpose of this document is to demonstrate that the four-roll has all the desirable features of the other two without the disadvantages – plus, adds additional advantages the other two do not have.

MG Four-Roll Advantages

Simplicity:

The single biggest advantage that four-roll machines have over the other two machines is simplicity.

In order to obtain a perfectly bent pipe with a three-roll double pinch, it is necessary to do three different operations:

  1. It is necessary to pre-bend the leading edge of material. This is done by pinching plate between one of the side rolls and top roll.
  2. You must also lower the opposing side roll to create the proper geometry for the pre-bend. Because of this it is impossible to load and roll material in the horizontal position. It also requires a much larger area in the shop as the material must pass all the way through the machine in its stretch-out condition for the pre-bending so it requires at least equal distance on both sides of the machine.
  3. It is necessary to completely change roll position and move plate back to center of machine and position side roll at correct position to achieve required diameter.

This sounds difficult because it is. Remember, every release of rolls is an opportunity for misalignment of plate.

To roll a given diameter on a four-roll is extremely simple. You introduce plate into the roll touching it off to the opposing outboard roll for quick and accurate squaring of plate. You then raise lower central pinch roll and the plate is locked into position with no possibility of slipping. After this you back plate up to near tangent point of central rolls, and then raise the left or right outboard roll to the correct position to achieve your diameter and begin rolling. When the back edge gets close, simply release the left outboard roll and bring up the right outboard roll until it touches the plate and finish the pipe in one pass.

By comparison, a very simple operation. Because the plate is automatically squared and always pinched and not released until the pipe is complete, the net result of this difference is that the four-roll requires 66% less positioning and much less experience on the operator’s part.

In most cases, it is difficult to determine the correct position of roll to achieve a given diameter. The operator takes his best conservative guess and moves up from there; however, given the fact that on a three-roll double pinch he must have 6 positioning to achieve a diameter (even a wrong one) it becomes very time consuming with a risk of scraping the material before correct diameter is reached. A four-roll machine, which requires only two positionings, never releases metal and arrives at correct diameter in less than half the time, with much less risk of a scraped piece.

Given the above, there is no question the four-roll is the simplest, most productive machine available in rolling technology today.

Cone Bending:

As cone bending is very difficult on an initial pinch roll it has, up until the last few years, been accepted that the best method to bend cones is with a double pyramid pinch roll. However, it is not an easy process with a double pyramid roll at all. In fact, it is not uncommon for jobbers, as well as manufacturers, to own a double pinch roll and still choose to bump out their cones on a press brake. The only machine capable of bending a cone properly is a four-roll machine.

To roll cones on a three-roll machine is very difficult. First you must realize that a cone has to be developed by rolling a plate at two different speeds at the same time. This is a difficult situation to achieve. Both the three-roll and the four-roll machines are capable of inclining the side rolls in a positive attitude, and both have a hardened contrast die to control and slow down the speed of the small diameter. This is an equal comparison as far as it goes; but, by guiding the small diameter and inclining the roll (both of which are necessary to roll cones) you have still created an unnatural situation for rolling cones. Why? Because on three-roll double pinch machine all three-rolls are driven, which makes it very difficult for the contrast die to be able to retard the rotation on the small diameter while making the large diameter move faster? This causes lamination and scarring on plate and the roll.

So, why can a four-roll, which also has inclinable side rolls and a hardened contrast die do this difficult function better than three-roll? The answer is this: the four-roll (lower central pinch roll) can be inclined in a negative attitude and is also capable of adjusting the force at which it pinches which allows the roll to grip the cone only on the large diameter which needs to turn faster and only with enough force to turn the part. This allows the small diameter to be slowed down more easily.

To sum it up, rolling cones properly absolutely requires a lower central pinch roll (fourth roll) capable of a negative inclination and adjustable pinch pressure. Only four-roll machines have this capability but, be careful, not all four-roll machines have it. Be sure to ask the builder about this feature. Also, make sure when inquiring about four-roll machines that the side rolls move independently so that one can be used as a squaring gauge.

Handling the Plate:

Bending light sheet presents no particular handling problem to either type roll, although the three-roll must be lined up with a groove and then pressure applied to hold this position. On a four-roll, you merely bump the sheet off the back roll which acts as a positive stop and then pinches the plate to insure position.

The real problems start with the rolling of long plate. Because the three-roll pyramid has to lower one of the side rolls and pinch and pre-bend with the other, it is really not suited for long plates, as it would drag the ground. This leaves two options; the initial pinch and the four-roll.

The initial pinch can require as many as 2 or 3 people to help maintain control of the plate by using cranes, hoists, etc. Also remember, the plate has to be taken out of the machine and turned for the opposite pre-bend operation. Again, this sounds as a tough and time-consuming operation; companies doing this type of work will tell you it is tougher.

By contrast, once again, the four-roll is uniquely suited for this type of work. First, like the initial pinch, in a horizontal position allowing for conveyors or support stands, this is the safest, most controllable condition and does not require 2 or 3 men to control plate. Secondly, plate does not have to be turned around.

Speed:

Because the initial pinch must turn plate for second pre-bend and the three-roll double pyramid must make 6 positioning to roll a pipe, it is conservatively estimated that the floor-to-floor time on making a pipe is 50% faster in production situations on a four-roll with much less operator expertise required. Put simply, if a three-roll can roll a vessel in 20 minutes, a four-roll could do it in 10 minutes, or twice as fast. Even if a company is rolling only a few pipes a day, there is no reason not to do them a rapidly as possible so you can get on with your other work.

Automatic Squaring of Material:

On a three-roll machine, squaring of plate is a very difficult process and one of the most important. It is extremely difficult to control the squareness of plate over a 6′- 12′ long piece with just one man.

Three-roll manufacturers usually put a small groove in the outboard rolls to help line plate up but even with this, it often requires two men to square plate properly. No matter how long it takes, there is no alternative; the plate has to be square or you cannot proceed. This process, on a three-roll, is time-consuming and can be very frustrating.

On a four-roll machine, the process is automatic and takes only a few seconds and, equally important, only one operator. This is done by lifting one of the independent outboard rolls and using it as a squaring gauge. Once the material is in contact all the way across, the operator simply drives the lower pinch roll up until it pinches material and, from that point, you can roll complete pipe in one pass.

Constantly Pinched Plate:

One advantage of maintaining a pinched condition is that the operator has total control of all plate motion. In this condition, it is possible for one operator to roll parabolic curves or boxes without leaving the control and with only one squaring of the plate.

This is impossible to do on a three-roll machine. It also isn’t possible to vary the pinch pressure so that you can supply strong force for big plate and less force for thin or soft material and because the plate is driven, it prevents it fro slipping out of position which happens with three-roll machines.

Another disadvantage of three-roll double pinch machine is rolling thin sheet (less than 30% capacity) because of the lack of resistance in the material. Again, this is not a problem for a four-roll which is pinching material and creating its own drive force, regardless of resistance in material.

Bottom line; a MG four-roll plate bending machine will improve your production dramatically.

Rotation Speed of Rolls:

Machines not using planetary drive system still rely on chains, gears, clutches and synchronization devices. These are items subject to maintenance. Studies have proven that most shop break-downs are due to lack of proper maintenance.

MG has for years used the Planetary Drive System that does not require synchronizing gears or any mechanical devices. It properly controls the different speeds. This is achieved by planetary drive systems which are much stronger than other drive systems and do not require synchronized gearing. More importantly it does not require any maintenance.

CNC Controls:

The four-roll machine is the only plate roll that truly utilizes a CNC control. On a three-roll machine, the CNC is basically used only to repeat side roll positioning. It cannot accurately control lateral movement. The three roll double pinch machine does not move the plate by driving it but rather by dragging it. There is no guarantee that the roll won’t spin slightly during movement and lose part zero.

On a four-roll machine, because of the pinching of the fourth roll, you do have constant control of the material and, therefore, the CNC control can totally control an entire bend floor to floor.

The advantages of a CNC control can be justified in either large production applications, small production applications or in “just in time situations”.

The advantages in large production is that the computer will take care of most of the various rolling processes leaving the operator only responsible for putting the flat plate into the machine and taking the round cylinder off the machine. In cases where a vacuum feed, power feed table and parts ejector are part of the system, the control will even put the plate on the power feed table and then feed the plate in and eject the cylinder when finished.

The control also has very strong advantages when there are a lot of different parts to be rolled even in small quantities. The control gives the operator the ability to set up the machine from one part to another in literally seconds. In either one of these situations, the value of the CNC control can not be understated.

The MG Touch Command Control:

I believe this is the strongest control in the industry. If you have to make a parabolic shape, pentagons shape, hexagon shape or an elliptical shape you would not need test material. You would only require the one part you want to roll. The control will make the part one off.

From the desk of Cary Marshall

C Marshall Fabrication Machinery, Inc.

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Common Problems Affecting Wood Burning Stoves and Their Solutions

From time to time you may experience difficulties with your wood burner, which will often be indicated by smoke leaking from the stove. This can be due to a fault with the chimney, but it can occur for other reasons too. The following guidelines should help you to spot any problems and put them right.

The Stove Door

If the door to your wood burning stove is not airtight and smoke is leaking round the sides of the door, check to make sure that none of the gaskets are broken. Gaskets can be purchased from stove suppliers and replaced using heat resistant cement to fix them into position. Likewise, the glass can be replaced if it is damaged or, in some cases, the whole door may need to be replaced. A qualified installer will be able to advise you, but if you have spotted the cause of the problem yourself it is possible to obtain all of these parts from a specialist stove supplier.

Smoking Chimneys

To find the cause of your smoking chimney you firstly need to identify whether it is smoking continuously or whether the smoking occurs intermittently. When a chimney gives off a constant stream of smoke into the room this can be due to a number of causes:~

Quality of Wood – If you are using the wrong type of wood or the wood has not been seasoned, this can make the wood smoke excessively whilst burning. Generally, the types of wood most suitable for wood burning stoves are ash and beech whereas pine and spruce are the least suitable.

Chimney Blockage – It is important to have the chimney swept twice a year to prevent a build up of soot and tar. You can spot these by examining inside the chimney once it has cooled, using a torch. You may find that there is something else blocking the chimney such as a bird’s nest. Once you have moved any obstructions you should find that your fire continues to function normally.

Poor Ventilation – A stove needs ventilation so that the air movement can carry smoke through the chimney. If your room is not well ventilated it is best to have a stove ventilator fitted close to your wood burning stove. Poor ventilation in a room with a wood burning stove can be dangerous.

Presence of another Chimney – This can affect the performance of your wood burning stove as the other chimney will also pull in air, meaning less air movement for your wood burner. For this reason you should block off any chimneys that aren’t in use. If you are using stoves with both chimneys then try shutting the air vents and door to the other stove, or in the case of an open fire, shut the back baffle. Extractor fans in the home can affect the stove in the same way so switch them off if they are causing a problem.

Poorly Insulated Chimney – It is important to have your chimney insulated as this will retain the heat. Because heat rises it will improve the draw allowing any gases and smoke to escape through the chimney.

Faulty Chimney Cap – The chimney cap or cowl is fitted on the top of the chimney with mesh at the sides for the smoke to escape. If the cap is damaged then it won’t do its job of keeping out rain and debris, which will cause the chimney to smoke. Even if the chimney is not being used, a cap should be fitted to prevent damp getting inside.

Large Fireplace Opening – If your fireplace opening is too large this can cause problems with smoking. In this case you should block off part of the opening using a non-combustible material such as a metal plate.

Chimney Size – If your chimney is not tall enough then you won’t get sufficient draw to allow the smoke to escape. You can either have it built so that it is higher or replace the chimney pot with a taller one. In some cases it is the width of the chimney pot or the cowl that is too small. It is best to have your chimney checked by a qualified installer to make sure that it is of a sufficient size for use with a wood burning stove.

Strong Winds – Strong winds can affect the air pressure outside the chimney causing air to be sucked down the chimney and released in an area where the pressure is lower. Although there is no real solution to this problem, it is a rare occurrence.

Downdraught

If your chimney lets out intermittent puffs of smoke into the room, this is known as downdraught. A downdraught is caused either when the chimney isn’t high enough, or it is surrounded by high buildings or trees, as these affect wind currents. This can be solved by making the chimney higher or fixing an anti-downdraught cowl.

Chimney Fires

Chimney fires are dangerous and are usually caused by a build-up of tar inside the chimney. This is another important reason to have the chimney swept regularly and have it insulated. A damaged chimney will also encourage tar to collect in the crevices so check that the mortar between the bricks isn’t broken.

The Flue

The flue extends out of the stove pipe and into the chimney so a faulty flue can cause similar problems to a faulty chimney. If smoke is leaking from the flue itself, then this could indicate that there is a break in the flue or one of the seals is leaking. Heat resistant cement can be used to reseal the joins between the sections of flue pipe. However, if the pipe itself it damaged then it would be best to replace that section.

It is essential that you carry out regular maintenance checks on your wood burning stove, the chimney and the flue. Not only will this help the stove to run smoothly but it will ensure that it remains safe to use.

Induction Cookers For the Home Kitchen – Types, Sizes, & Features of Induction Cookers

Induction cookers are fast, convenient, precise, clean, energy-efficient — and a very attractive addition to any kitchen. Unmatched safety makes them a perfect choice for the home kitchen.

The Basics

Built-in units are flush-mounted in a kitchen counter or wherever you like, frequently with a choice of edge trim available. They can be mounted above a built-in oven, if desired, and require a 240V plug like any electric range.

Portable units have one or two cooking zones (elements) and plug into a 120V outlet, typically drawing 15 amps. Commercial induction cookers also come in portable models; some of these require 120V plug-in and some need 240V because they have higher wattage elements. Commercial units will be covered in detail in another article. Induction ranges are also appearing on the market; combining an induction cooktop with a convection oven, they replace an electric or gas range — prices compare favorably with full-size drop-in units.

Sizes — What Size Induction Cooker to Choose?

Residential Induction Cookers — Built-in

  • 36-inch units with 5 zones all the way down to 12-inch single zone.
  • Zones (elements) from 5.5 to 12 inches in diameter.
  • 2-zone models — side-by-side or front-to-back configurations to fit various kitchen spaces.
  • Consider dividing your cooking station. Instead of one 5-zone cooktop, you could place two 2-zone units with a space between. Keep them close enough to reach when you’re alone, but spaced so that two people can work comfortably.

Residential Induction Cookers — Portable

  • Supplementary cooking appliance, with zones of varying size. Choose one that will accommodate your largest frying pan or soup pot.
  • Single-zone or two-zone units — make sure you choose one that is stable, with a flat bottom or good non-slip feet. Try putting a large pot on it with a handle that sticks out; see if the unit wobbles or becomes unbalanced. Two-zone models should accommodate two pots comfortably.
  • Very handy for “mother-in-law suite” or bedsitter, cottage or an outdoor kitchen.

Induction Cookers — Performance/Convenience Features

  • Controls — electronic touchpads, protected by the sealed surface; temperature settings adjusted by “slide” control or by “plus” and “minus” pads. You don’t have to stretch across hot pots to reach the controls.
  • Some models, especially portable induction units, have dials or knobs to turn the zones on and adjust temperature.
  • Power-boost available on most models — provides extra power to a zone when needed (e.g. bring a huge pot of water to the boil).
  • Precise temperature control — some models allow switching between heat levels and actual temperature settings. Cooking candy? Melting or proving chocolate? Set the temperature and time you want.
  • Memory settings — want your eggs cooked a certain way? store the setting and use it again.
  • Timer settings and “keep-warm” settings allow you to keep sauces, soups, and other dishes warm without overcooking or drying out.
  • Cleaning — ceramic-glass surface is easy to maintain; no more “cooked-on” messes. Wipe spills during cooking with a damp cloth. When done, spray with non-abrasive all-purpose cleaner and wipe clean.

Induction Cookers: Safety Features

  • Pot recognition — zone not active until a pot is put on; cannot be turned on “accidentally” or left “on” when pot is removed. Activation requires an object with large enough diameter and weight.
  • Pot size recognition — active area of zone adjusts to pot diameter, saves energy.
  • Induction zones cannot be activated by non-magnetic pots, bowls, measuring cups.
  • Pan-overheat detection/shut-off — empty pots will not overheat; oil will not get to ignition temperature.
  • Overflow detection/shut-of — zone shuts off for boilover or large spill.
  • Residual heat indicators — light stays on if a zone is warm after a hot pot is removed.
  • Child-proof lockout — children cannot activate cooktop when an adult is not present.

When looking at induction cookers for the home kitchen it is very important to check specifications for each model that interests you. If you want a particular safety/convenience/performance feature, make sure that the model you’re looking at has it. Remember that small portable models will not have all the features or capacity that you find in a built-in unit, so look for the features that are most important to you.

Polycarbonate Roofing Sheets For DIY’ers

Polycarbonate roofing sheets have many uses around the home. While probably not your first choice for house roofing, there are many more applications in which they can be used. Many home building projects can benefit from their use. Let’s look at some of these applications and find out why these sheets are so desirable and durable.

Polycarbonate is a lightweight but extremely durable plastic. It is nearly unbreakable and in fact in some instances it is bullet-proof. It can withstand almost any weather from tropical to frigid, and is one third the weight of acrylic. Music CD’s are made from polycarbonate and if you have ever tried to snap a CD in half you know how strong it is. Many skylights are also made of polycarbonate.

The nature and strength of this material is exactly why these roofing sheets are so tough. They withstand the elements and are lightweight, making installation much easier than with normal roofing products. And with less weight on your roof there is less strain on the rest of your building. This is why they are ideal for a carport or a gardener’s shed. You can also cover a patio with these as a roof, allowing the natural light to flow in.

The panels are corrugated and are generally sold in a size that is twenty four inches wide by twelve feet long. The corrugations run the long way. You can also find them with a finish that offers one hundred percent UV protection, making them ideal for deck roofs or poolside enclosures.

Besides being corrugated, the sheets also come in a ribbed pattern. Sizes are generally the same, and the ribs run the long way, also.

Polycarbonate roofing panels come in a variety of colors, both translucent and opaque. Translucent colors include clear, green, smoke, and dark gray. Opaque panels can be beige, blue or white. Check with you retailer to find out if other colors may be available.

These roofing sheets can be used in a variety of manners around the home, and not only for roofs. A homeowner can use them for a windbreak on the end of a porch, or to enclose a greenhouse. Walls can be made for an animal shelter out of these panels, allowing light to come in on all side but keeping the animal out of the weather.

They can also be used intermittently with other roofing products as in the case of a pole barn roof. You might want to install several clear panels in your roofing plan for so that light can come in. In this case, the panels could save you money on your light bill. And since they weigh so little, transporting them from the building store to your home is much less complicated than with heavy roof sheeting and bundles of shingles.

In general roofing projects the sheets are quite often used on carports and deck coverings. With each panel weighing in at about ten pounds and factoring in the durability of the product, it is easy to see why polycarbonate roofing sheets can be used in so many ways.

Polycarbonate roofing sheets are the perfect roofing solution for the DIY’er looking for a simple and durable material.

Mary Kay Compensation Plan & Information Overview

Mary Kay Product:

Mary Kay is a product that most people have heard about although might not be familiar with. Mary Kay is a brand of skin care cosmetics and color cosmetics sold by Mary Kay, Inc. Mary Kay is established out of Dallas in the suburb of Addison, Texas. Mary Kay was founded on Friday the 13th of September 1963. There are hundreds and thousands of products sold and distributed by Mary Kay, ranging from Skin Care products to Fragrance and men’s products. They sell just about anything and everything you can think of in regards to skin care and overall body care.

The Mary Kay Compensation Plan:

Mary Kay has a very diverse and sometimes confusing compensation plan. Since the compensation plan isn’t provided anywhere on the internet I have done some research and will provide an overall concept on how Mary Kay distributors are paid. Mary Kay has three levels of distributors, Independent Beauty Consultant, Independent Sales Director, Independent National Sales Director. The first level is obtained when signing up with Mary Kay to become a distributor and each other level is obtained via sales records. At the higher levels, Mary Kay’s Compensation Plan, provides for a better profit of sales by the distributors that you have signed up as well as other perks depending on your sales records and achievements.

The Mary Kay Problem:

After researching the topic of becoming a Mary Kay distributor I found some vital information about the problems that people have when they were distributors for Mary Kay. Mary Kay’s products are terrific from everything I have heard and read about. That is great except I read story after story describing that the Mary Kay Compensation Plan makes it difficult to actually turn a profit. One story tells about a woman had become a Mary Kay distributor twice, failing each time. Why did she fail? The first time she signed up she signed up with little to no inventory. The second time she was convinced that she failed because of the fact that she started with little product, so she came into Mary Kay with $5,000 towards the product and $100 towards the sign-up fee.

Even with $5,000 worth of Mary Kay products she still didn’t have exactly what the customers wanted. With such a wide range or products available for sale by Mary Kay it is hard to predict which products you are going to need after the first month or two. Therefore, after about two months, it is necessary to make smaller orders at a much lower discount level on a frequent basis. Thus lowering the profit margin that you receive for selling the product. It’s like any business, the more you order at one time the better the discount. That’s without considering the advertising costs of your business, sales aids, and everything else needed to run a successful business.

Now here is the real problem that Mary Kay distributors face. Where are you going to find your clients or your distributors? Mary Kay encourages old marketing tactics for new distributors when they first sign up with the company. The good ol’ friends and family list. This is where you write down anyone that you have ever come in contact with and call them telling them about your products available. That works well in the beginning, but how is it in the long term? After the initial boost or sales when everyone busy something to get youstarted, it will be months before they can use more product! So now you are resorting to telling people you meet in the grocery store, by throwing skin care classes at home. Ask yourself how many women you know are desperate enough to get their friends together for a Mary Kay party? So most Mary Kay distributors hit a brick wall. They are left with confronting and marketing to total strangers. Ask yourself this question, if you were standing in the produce aisle at the supermarket and a woman approached you with her Mary Kay sales pitch,would you truly be excited about the idea of going to this womans house for a free facial? Most people aren’t excited and will run and squiggle away as fast as possible.

The Solution to the Mary Kay Problem:

You see this is the problem with most network marketing companies that rely on old marketing tactics to move their business. We live in a very progressive age now, with instant access to everything you ever wanted via the internet. It’s necessary to be marketing on the internet a product that sells itself. Most people don’t have the experience or know how on how to properly market themselves or their products on the internet. It’s not as simple as putting up a web page and watching the sales come to your door. You need to know the latest and best marketing tactics to achieve fantastic results. Web 2.0 and so is the idea of turn key marketing systems. Mary Kay’s Compensation Plan could be the best in the world, but if you don’t know how to properly market the product you won’t be able to experience the compensation plan’s benefits. In a nutshell the turn key marketing system allows for anyone at any point in their internet marketing experience to succeed. by providing a concrete 30 Day Step By Step marketing Guide to Success that teaches you how to market yourself via the internet and Web 2.0 without ANY prior experience.

In summary, this automated turn key marketing system allows you to focus on learning and applying step by step instructions and watching the results flow in. By applying the 30 Day instructional guide you can be earning $1,000 checks daily, not monthly or yearly. If you are tired of the hardships associated with old school marketing systems then I’m committed to providing and teaching you the necessary steps to becoming successful. Don’t depend on Mary Kay’s Compensation Plan to make you successful. It’s the knowledge of marketing,and marketing efficiently that makes you efficient. Plan on a proven system that has taken years of research and development to create. For more information please refer to www.CaptureYourSuccess.net

How To Install Deck Railing – In 5 Easy Steps

Does local building code require you to install deck railing?….Well don’t worry, anybody can install railings with a few simple steps. On several occasions I have had to install railings to meet the local building code, and if you read on I will show you 5 easy steps for how to install deck railing.

Step 1:

This first step is easy. Get a square, consult the plans for your deck, and mark with the square along the header and outer joists the locations for each of the railing posts. Make sure the posts are no more than 1.8 meters or 72 inches apart.

Handy tip: Make sure you mark both edges of the railing posts at each location, It will make life that much easier.

Step 2:

This next step requires the use of your drill. Here you need to pre-drill two holes at the base of the railing posts. These two holes are for the bolts in order to attach the posts to the deck. Be careful and make sure you keep the drill straight.

Step 3:

Now for the easiest step of them all. Install the rail posts by bolting them to the deck with either “through” or “lag” bolts.

Step 4:

In order to attach the balusters we need to install a railing between each post. Screw the railing between the top of the posts, and ensure they are level, or fall evenly as required.

Step 5:

The final step is to install the balusters. Calculate how many balusters you need between each post and mark accordingly. Make sure the gap between each baluster is equal. Now screw in each baluster at the top and bottom, with a minimum of two screws.

So we now have a nice and appealing railing that will more than satisfy most local building codes. Knowing how to install deck railing is not too difficult is it?

A Further Option To Consider:

Above I gave instructions on how to install deck railing that was attached to the outside joists. Yet, another option exists. If you plan on installing a railing from the outset of building your deck, your deck support posts can be installed to double as your deck railing posts.

So there we have it. Not only do you now know how to install deck railing, once you follow the above mentioned steps, you will also see how simple it is to install deck railing.

How to Properly Measure Your Stair Railings

A stairway adds a nice touch to any home. Whether your stairs only have three steps or you have a long flight of stairs in your home, one thing is evident. The structure helps family members ascend and descend comfortably and safely.

Stairs, regardless of their shape and size, need to be properly constructed to make it safe to use by people. The right measurements have to be taken before installing the vital parts. Carpenters are skilled in this task and if you’re not knowledgeable on this aspect of home construction, it would be best to get the help of qualified carpenters to assist you. If you’ll be ordering your stair railing, you will have to provide the company with the precise measurements.

To get the measurements, you will need to get the average rise and run of steps or the height and width, the number of stairs or treads, measurement from tip to tip as well as from the house to the tip of front steps and the angle of the staircase.

The shapes of stairs have evolved since the olden times. Some people know this structure to be just the straight one. Today, however, there are different shapes of staircase such as the round and spiral apart from the straight type.

A flight of stairs is composed of different parts. The tread is what people usually step on and this requires a certain thickness. The riser is the vertical part between each tread while the nosing is the edge portion of the treat that protrudes over the riser. A major component is the balustrade system which includes the balusters, handrail and the railing. The stair railing is the one that prevents people from falling over the edge of the structure. The part where the railing is attached is called the newel or a large baluster.

Railings need to be sturdy and firm to ensure the safety of those who use the staircase. Depending on the choice of material, they have to be built in a way that will not allow any adult or child to get through it. A very common type of stair railing makes use of vertical posts or balusters made of wood. Two of these posts, also referred to as spindles or guards, are normally required for each tread.

But with the entry of various materials, different designs can be used for the railing posts notably for the open styles. Homeowners with small children who want to provide a safe environment for their kids can choose a close type of railing for their stairway.

If you’re living in a home that’s been existing for quite some time, ensure that your stair railing is intact with its posts, balusters and handrails not loose. Should you observe some loose parts, act right away to have it fastened by an experienced carpenter. Doing it yourself especially without proper background may be difficult as the balustrade system normally involves long bolts and pins.

If the stair railing, however, is quite old for you, you can always have it changed. There are companies that build and assemble precut railings and get rid of your old one.

Protect Your Invention – 2 Inexpensive Legal Ways

There are two legal ways to protect your invention that you will want to consider before spending thousands of dollars on a patent. But before we get into that, you need to understand how intellectual property rights work.

Intellectual Property includes patents, trademarks, servicemarks, and copyrights.

A) WHAT IS A PATENT?

A patent allows you to exclude others from making or selling the invention but does not grant you the right to make or sell an invention. Generally, the term of a new patent is 20 years, and U.S. patent grants are only effective within the United States.

There are three types of patents:

1) Utility patents cover processes, machines, articles of manufacture, composition of matter, or any new and useful improvement of something.

2) Design patents cover the design or look of an invention.

3) Plant patents cover asexually reproduced distinct and new varieties of plants.

A utility patent is the strongest patent an inventor can obtain to protect an idea and how it works.

A design patent, although significantly less expensive, will only protect the way your invention looks (shape, color, size, etc), not the way and reason it works.

B) WHAT IS A TRADEMARK OR SERVICEMARK?

A trademark is a word, name, or symbol used to distinguish your products from others. A servicemark is the same as a trademark except it identifies a provider of a service, not a product.

Trademark rights may be used to prevent others from using a similar mark, but not from making or selling the same products or service.

C) WHAT IS A COPYRIGHT?

Copyright protects works of authorship: literary, dramatic, musical, artistic, etc. A copyright gives you exclusive rights to reproduce the creation, to distribute copies, and to perform or display the copyrighted work publicly.

A copyright protects the form of expression not the subject matter. So a description of a product can be copyrighted, but someone else could write a similar description, and even produce the product from your description, then market and sell the product. Copyrights are registered by the Copyright Office of the Library of Congress.

2 Economical forms of Intellectual Property protection

Two very economical forms of protection that you can use in the beginning stages of your idea are a Disclosure Document and a Provisional Patent.

A) The Disclosure Document Program allows you to send in a paper to the USPTO (United States Patent and Trademark Office) called the Disclosure Document, describing your invention, “as evidence of the date of conception” of your idea. This record is kept on file for two years, but this is not a patent application, so it will only give you minimal protection. In other words, you need to begin completing your invention and pursuing a patent ASAP. A disclosure document filing costs $10 at the time of this writing.

B) The Provisional Patent Application allows you to put “patent pending” on your product, allows you to file for a patent without a lot of red tape, and it allows you to file for a foreign patent in other countries. Filing a provisional patent also allows you to test your idea, find funding, perfect it, establish retail accounts, etc. However, it is only good for 12 months, and during that time you need to file for a full patent.

According to the USPTO, “inventors are strongly encouraged to file a provisional patent application instead of a Disclosure Document”. I highly recommend this strategy. It is quite beneficial and only costs $80 at the time of this writing.

SUMMARY OF IP RIGHTS

Although this gives you a fair amount of information on intellectual property rights, you will likely get more complete information from a patent attorney. There are areas in which you may want to seek counsel, such as patent writing, and contract negotiation.

There is a great deal that you can learn on your own about writing patents by simply reading through patents that have been published. You can find these online at http://www.uspto.gov. Familiarize yourself with this website, it has many tools that will help you learn more about protecting your ideas.

I learned how to write patents by reading patents that were similar to products I was developing until I began to recognize and understand the language used. This can help you whether you are writing your own patent or having an attorney do it. Either way, you should at least have an elementary grasp of how the document comes together.

As far as filing for copyrights, trademarks, or servicemarks, these things are as simple as following directions and filling out paperwork. For trademark, or servicemark forms, contact the USPTO by phone, mail, or email. For copyright forms, contact the Copyright Office of the Library of Congress.

How to Wire a Switch Leg For a Light

A lot of older homes have light fixtures that must be switched on by means of a pull chord or pull chain hanging from the light fixture itself. Because the light fixture is normally in the middle of the room it can be really inconvenient having to walk into the middle of a dark room to pull the chain to turn the light on.

Installing a switch leg for a light fixture is a medium DIY job that can be carried out by a homeowner with a few simple tools, a little knowledge and some caution.

Follow this procedure and you will install a switch leg with ease. Installation time should be 3 to 4 hours.

Prep:

Mark the wall for the switch position.

Identify the fuse or circuit breaker for the light.

Set up an extension light if necessary.

Gather the required tools. You will need a hammer, screwdriver, keyhole saw and a snake.

Gather the required stock. You will need an old work box, a switch and cover plate, madison bars, a piece of 14/2 romex, some wire nuts, electrical tape and touch up plaster.

Method:

In residential construction the joists normally run from side to side in the home spaced on 16 inch centers.

The strapping will run from front to back in the house again spaced at 16 inch centers.

This ensures that you will have bays to snake your wires in.

Place a drop cloth on the floor covering the work area.

1. Remove the light fixture and if there is a box take out a knockout facing in the direction where the switch is to be placed.

2. Remember that if the switch is not in line with the light fixture you will have to make a hole or two in the ceiling to facilitate snaking because you cannot snake diagonally,

3. Run the snake from hole to hole in the ceiling drawing the 14.2 romex into the ceiling from the light to the wall just above the switch.

4. You will need to make a small cut in the ceiling and wall above the switch position so that the wire can bypass the wall header.

5. Snake the wire down the wall into the hole that you have pre cut for the old work box. If you are working with lathe and plaster it is a good idea to place your old work box so that you cut out one entire piece of lathe and a small piece of the laths at the top and bottom of the old work box. You can fix the box with Madison bars or sheet rock screws. After marking the box chip the plaster away to expose the lathe and cut the lathe neatly with the keyhole saw, holding the lathe in place so as not to make a large hole in unstable plaster.

6. Tighten the clamp in the old work box and remove the unused clamp and use the screw from it to attach the ground wire.

7. Put the white and black wires onto the switch screws, tighten and install and place cover plate on. It is better to use the screw terminals rather than the stab connections.

8. Identify the hot wire at the light fixture and open the wire nut joining it to the fixture.

9. Using wire nuts join the white wire from the romex to the hot wire at the fixture; join the black wire from the romex to the fixture wire.

10. Make sure that you connect the ground wire to the ground at the light fixture.

11. Re fix the fixture to the ceiling.

12. Make any holes in the plaster good with patch such as spackle or plaster of paris

13. Turn the power on and test the switch.

Female Hair Loss On Sides, Temples, And Around Edges

Female hair loss that occurs in the temple area, edges, or sides of head could be caused by several different disorders.

Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia

Frontal fibrosing alopecia is a newly discovered condition. It was first described in 1994. Characteristics include symmetrical hair loss along the top hairline and the sides of scalp. Complete or partial eyebrow loss can also occur. This condition does not happen suddenly. It is a slow, gradual process. The bald area progressively recedes farther and farther back, forming a “band” around the top and side edges that resembles a receding hairline. The baldness can extend as much as five inches past the original hairline. There may be a slight or noticeable contrast in the appearance of the skin in the affected area. It may appear pale or mildly scarred.

The condition was originally named “postmenopausal frontal fibrosing alopecia” as it was originally thought to only affect women of postmenopausal age. Now it is being seen in younger women as well. Although it was once considered very rare, it is increasingly becoming more common. The cause is unknown but there is speculation that the immune system and/or hormonal system may be involved.

Because it is a type of cicatricial alopecia, scarring occurs under the surface. The scarring creates a closure over the affected follicle, making it impossible for that follicle to ever produce hair again. Treatment revolves around stopping the progression rather than trying to re-grow the hair that has already been lost. Early intervention is necessary.

Alopecia Ophiasis

Ophiasis is a more severe and dramatic variation of alopecia areata. A pattern of baldness occurs at the temples, behind the ears, along the sides, and extending to the nape (or entire occipital area) of the neck. The bald areas often occur on one side or in one area first, gradually connecting together to form a band around the perimeter of scalp on the sides and along the bottom of neck area. Ophiasis is a Greek word meaning serpent, referring to the snake-like pattern that is formed as this condition progresses.

With alopecia areata in all its various forms, the follicles are not damaged or destroyed so there is always the possibility of regrowth. The prognosis for ophiasis is not as positive as it is in less severe forms of this disorder, but as long as the follicles are still alive the opportunity is there. Early intervention provides better results.

Because it is an autoimmune disorder, proper treatment would include calming, nourishing and balancing (but not over-stimulating) the immune system, as well as treating the hair loss itself. Autoimmune disorders require specific anti-inflammatory diet that may also require elimination of gluten and other possible food allergens. Natural or synthetic agents may be used to encourage follicle stimulation and new growth.

Traction Alopecia

Traction is one of the most common causes of temporal thinning in women and girls. This occurs from wearing tightly pulled hairstyles consistently for prolonged periods of time. The sustained tension on the scalp strains the follicle, causing the underlying strand to loosen from the follicle. Persistent tension may eventually damage the follicle.

Treatment involves wearing hair loose as much as possible and massaging area with essential oils, coconut oil or jojoba to provide nourishment and circulation to follicles. Early detection is necessary as scarring can occur with this condition. Once scarring occurs, hair loss is permanent.

I Need to Find a Phone Number For Free

When people are trying to locate someone, there are two things that they are usually interested in, a phone number or an address or both. That is usually the goal of most people searches, to provide people with their number or an address for the person they are looking for.

A lot of people out there are interested in free searches and it is not uncommon to come across requests where someone is saying, I need to find a phone number for free. Fortunately for this person the internet has a number of resources that they can use. Quite a number of phonebooks are available online and you can use anyone of them to search.

The person that is saying, I need to find a phone number for free has the option if using the Google telephone directory. To access the phonebook you need to use the search box of the search engine. Just type in the word phonebook: followed by the name of the person whose number you want to find. The search will look the number through its entire listings and bring back all results that match the name you typed.

To find out more information about a particular displayed result, just click on the name of anyone and will show additional data. The Google phonebook is quite a large directory and I am sure that you will be able to find the person that you are looking for from here. If not, there is no need to worry. There are many other internet services that are designed to help someone that is saying to themselves, I need to find a phone number for free.

There’s a Reason Why They Say That "The Devil Is in the Detail"

Now it’s time to take a closer look at your test trials and what you should look out for when a prospective service provider comes to conduct a site survey.

When it comes to the survey itself, there are many things that any good service provider will take into consideration (you might like to create yourself a ‘secret’ checklist against which you can assess the surveyors that visit your site):

Exterior Façade

  • When performing the exterior inspection the service provider should explain if there are any access limitations.
  • Establish if any previous trials have been undertaken and what results had been achieved.
  • Establish if the façade has been cleaned before and if there are any current signs of reoccurring pollution.
  • They should check whether the wall is solid or cavity and what materials the wall is made up of. If the wall has been rendered, the service provider would need to establish the condition behind the render and the likelihood for any repairs.
  • Visually inspect the façade for any weak locations, cracks or soiling patterns. If any cracks are noted in the wall, the root cause would need to be established.
  • The location of windows, along with the material of the frame and the condition of the junction with the sill to be noted within the survey.
  • Any metal in the construction of the wall e.g. iron, which could expand in the process of corrosion, to be noted within the survey.
  • Common pollutants or staining resulting from any material defects to be noted within the survey.
  • The service provider should document, measure and include photographs, O&M manual details or technical drawing information.

Roof

  • Produce a description of the type, appearance and layout of the roof and to highlight if the findings do not match existing records.
  • To establish if nearby properties are constructed from the same materials or if any repairs have been done that could be affecting the building and façade.
  • To check sealants, flashing and joints for corroded sealants or materials that maybe leaching materials or organic matter onto the façade.
  • To establish if the roof is able to deal with adverse weather conditions.

Rainwater Disposal

  • Ensure that the guttering system can deal with heavy rainfall and to ask if or when it was last cleaned.
  • To check the condition and fixings of any rain water systems.
  • To ensure the gutter is positioned correctly and clear of the face of the wall. The service provider at this stage should also look out for signs of leakage and failure.
  • The service provider will need to review the access to all the surfaces and provide a report of the conditions and any inaccessible areas.

Eaves

  • Note any evidence where water has penetrated the wall beneath the eaves.
  • Report signs of any stains near the gutters from water running onto the wall.

Windows

  • Inspect the condition of the glazing/double glazing, the sealant, the sill and frame.
  • Establish if there is a sub sill and if it projects beyond the wall.
  • Establish if the windows are secure and if they can be opened.

This may seem very detailed, but actually we know you’ll agree that it will help to establish a tailored cleaning/restoration investment cost price for your building.

Aoyue 2702 Soldering Station – Review

I have already worked with Aoyue 2702A soldering station and everything went smoothly.

It is a really complete soldering system; very fast temperature response, lots of accessories. I have been using this soldering station when soldering very fine surface mount components (SMD) in sizes 0402, 0603. The station maintains a constant temperature when the set value is reached.

The Aoyue 2702 system consists of:

– iron

– hot air gun

– de-soldering gun

Soldering iron comes with a smoke absorber.

AOYUE is a leading manufacturer in China and Europe. This is a top of the line machine with all the latest technology.

The Aoyue 2702 soldering system package contents:

Main station with hot air gun, de-soldering gun, air nozzles (1124,1130,1197, 1313, 1919),G001 IC popper, Z003 hot air gun holder, soldering iron with T-LF-2B tip, soldering iron holder with solder wire stand, 3 de-soldering tips(s,m,l), vacuum suction pen and power cord.

Features:

– All digital controls

– 500 watt metal heater for hot air

– 70 Watt soldering iron 200-480 C (392-896 F)

– 15 minute stand-by auto sleep mode temperature range 100-480 C (212-896 F)

– Air flow 23 L/min (max)

The 24 volt soldering iron is compatible with the compound tip design by connecting the ceramic heater, sensor control unit and tip as one.

Vacuum pump in the de-soldering tool comes with zero crossing circuitry preventing electrical surges.

The Aoyue 2702 is great $250 soldering system – the combination of high quality and great price. It is a great solder workstation for repairs on all types of boards.

I give 5 out of 5 stars to this The Aoyue 2702.

Soldering Your Jewelry With the Soldering Iron

It is common for the jewelry makers to have the skills to use the tools. One integral skill which is must owned by the jewelry makers is using the soldering tool to solder jewelry.

Some people consider that it is safer to melt and attach the jewelry using the iron. You will also find it is easier to join the jewelry with that tool than using the blow torch. However, to do that, you will need the technique which is different from the old torch soldering. You also need to pay attention in choosing the metal. The iron can only be used on the basic metals like the tin or the copper.

Before you do that, you will need to prepare some tools like the soldering iron, solder, the soldering tape, the metal jewelry to be soldered, and the soldering blocks.

The first thing you should do is pushing the two metal pieces together. If you do it correctly, the pieces will sit flushing against each other. You need to keep the gap is as thin as possible. After that, you will need to place the tape on the piece’s surface which is not made from the metal. You can put it on the glass for example where you will melt to the pieces of the metal.

Do not forget to heat your iron while you do that. After it heats up, you can touch the tip of your tool to the area you want to join for seconds. Press the tip a little to the gap where the two pieces join together. You have to heat the iron’s tip until the solder can flow to the gap. After you have done, do not forget to cool the area. Do not touch it with your bare hands. Let it cool until it has the room temperature.