Understanding the Dangers of Uneven Pavement

When a road is under construction or has large divots due to overuse, the pavement between or even within lanes may become uneven. Uneven pavement refers to varying lane heights on the same road. For instance, one lane may be two or three inches taller than the lane next to it.

While uneven roads usually are not a problem if drivers slow down to account for the abnormality, drivers who receive no warning of the uneven pavement may be put in danger when they drive on affected roads.

The dangers of uneven pavement are most apparent when a driver goes from a lane of lower height to one of a greater height. If the driver is not careful, he or she may be subjected to a number of outcomes, such as:

  • Vehicle rollovers
  • Catastrophic tire blowout
  • Loss of vehicular control

Each of these outcomes may subject drivers and their passengers to further dangers. Additionally, individuals may be at a greater risk for colliding with fellow drivers or veering off of the road when they lose control of their vehicles.

While uneven pavement resulting from construction is usually resolved in time, uneven pavement resulting from road overuse may be allowed to exist for months or even years.

In either case, the local government or municipality in charge or road maintenance is responsible for taking some sort of action to ensure drivers’ safety, whether that means posting warning signs or getting the road repaired.

Drivers and vehicle occupants who suffer injuries because of road defects such as uneven pavement may be entitled to financial compensation for their injuries. Individuals wishing to pursue compensation should consult with an experienced road defects lawyer for more information.

If you or someone you love suffered injuries in an accident stemming from a roadway defect, discuss your legal rights and options with the Milwaukee road defects attorneys of Habush Habush & Rottier, S.C.

How to Find No-Fee Work at Home Assembly Jobs

Home assembly jobs have been around for a long time. It consists of building several products for a company and after you are finished with it, you will send the products back to the company for a paycheck. There are many home jobs in the internet today. However, looking for a great home assembly job is different.

The best assembly job is one that has a good pay and that you won’t have to shell out anything. If you don’t know how to find no fee work at home assembly jobs, the best source would be the internet. There are websites that can offer you no fee work assembly jobs. The said website has forums, group discussions and referrals that can help you search for the best no fee work at home assembly jobs. All you need is a working computer, an internet connection, and a user name and password to register.

Finding a home job that will not cost you any money will be hard especially if you are looking for a way to pay for your bills. Most no fee assembly jobs pay lower than others because of the “no fee” statement. Despite this, there are still some who give a high pay and yet, you won’t have anything to pay. However, this information is very hard to find and is only available for those who are members of a group. This is where message boards and internet forums come in. They will help you find what you are looking for.

5 GoPro Mount Locations for Your Race Car Video

There are several locations on a race car that are ideal for a GoPro mount. These spots reveal the most racing action with the least amount of custom camera mounting fabrication. This article discusses 5 potential mounting spots that will add to the quality of your racing videos right off the bat with minimal testing.

Spot 1: Roll Cage. With GoPro’s standard roll bar mounting equipment you can locate the camera just over the driver’s shoulder on a vertical, diagonal or horizontal bar. This location offers the best view of in-car race action, whether it’s on the drag strip, road course or oval. In addition to the forward view of the track and racing competitors, a GoPro camera mounted on the cage can be easily adjusted to capture the driver’s upper body, dashboard and gauges, sponsor logos inside the car and race traffic on either side of the car. Slight adjustments in camera angle and resolution will yield different effects. Roll bars make stable platforms so the video is normally vibration-free. Make sure you use the open back GoPro housing cover if you want to capture car sounds.

Spot 2: Front Bumper. This is one of the riskiest locations, especially for stock cars, drifters and road racers, due to inevitable contact with competitors. However, mounting your GoPro on the front bumper has advantages for creating realistic and exciting video. First, the low camera angle gives an awesome sense of speed. The track surface rushes under the car in the lower half of the footage, giving viewers a great sense of speed. Second, close up action with competitors in front, the track, crowd, etc. is captured in a way you can’t get otherwise due to the wide angle lense. The driver always feels close to the action — to get this effect with a camera you must mount it physically close to the action. Obviously, the risk of the bumper mount is you will lose the camera in an impact. This risk can be lessened but not eliminated by locating the mount on top of the bumper toward the rear, or even inside the grill area.

Spot 3: Roof. The GoPro car mounting kit includes a strong suction cup mount that is ideal for locating the camera on a car’s roof. The benefit of a roof mount is the unfettered view in any direction. It gives a “birds eye” view of the action from a high angle. This allows the camera to capture multiple cars, lots of the track and even interesting things like trees flying by, the starter’s flag stand, fand in the crowd and other views. A roof mount is perfect for showing sponsor logos on a car’s hood, roof or rear deck lid. The suction cup mount is sturdy and rarely comes off. The downside is the excitement and impact of being in the driver’s seat doesn’t translate as well from up high. However, this is one of those locations that provides great add on footage for your racing videos.

Spot 4: Outside Over Driver’s Shoulder. The drifting crowd has made this camera spot popular. The GoPro is mounted using a simple sticky mount or a suction cup to the outside of the window behind and above the driver. It has the benefit of capturing the driver’s head and hands during the race, which adds a fabulous sense of action to your video footage. When the camera is located higher it offers some of the birds eye roof mount effect. When mounted lower it offers more driver action in the picture. Beware of mounting it too low or you’re liable to have the camera peeled off by a competitor! The outside window spot is best for very wide angle views.

Spot 5: Inside Pointed at Driver. This option offers a ton of variety in where the camera is mounted and what you focus it on. On the dashboard directly in front of the driver pointed back at his face films his eyes and reactions during the race. This makes the video very realistic and conveys the interesting human element of racing. Moving the camera on the dash toward the center or far corner progressively captures more of the driver’s side and what’s going on outside the car. These angles blend driver action with techncial control movements and outside competitor activity. Pointing the dash mounted GoPro directly backward usually isn’t the best since 75% of the view will be the car’s interior and very little race action will be shown. There are many other spots such as footwell, opposite door, steering wheel pointed back, etc. to play with.

Mounting one or more GoPro cameras in any of these spots on a race car will yield great footage for your next racing video. Feel free to experiment or use these locations as a starting point.

Hammer’s The Quiet Ones – The True Story

Hammer’s new supernatural movie The Quiet Ones, in which a University physics professor assembles a team to help create a poltergeist, is actually based on a true story which happened way back in the 1970’s, when a group of Canadian scientists similarly tried to create a ghost of their own. What they discovered turned out to be quite shocking.

These Canadian parapsychologists wanted to prove their theory that those unexplained bumps in the night are actually attributable to the workings of the human mind. The famous poltergeist expert Dr. Alan Robert George Owen headed the group, which was known as TSPR (Toronto Society for Psychical Research). The group consisted of eight people: Dr. Owen’s wife, an industrial designer, an accountant, a housewife, a bookkeeper and a sociology student. A psychologist named Dr. Joel Whitton also sat in on many of the experiments as an observer. The group’s aim was to change our whole perception of the supernatural.

The so-called “Philip Experiment” began in 1972, when their first task was to create a fictional historical character. To achieve this, they pulled “facts” out of thin air to attach to the life of this fictional character, writing a complete life history of this person, who they named Philip Aylesford. In his biography, they stated that he was 17th Century English noble who had a beautiful, yet cold and hostile wife named Dorothea. One day, he chanced to meet a stunningly beautiful gypsy girl named Margo, with whom he immediately fell in love. Consequently, Philip and Margo became discreet lovers. However, their illicit affair didn’t last too long, for his wife, Dorothea, found out about Margo and accused her of practising witchcraft. Because Philip wanted to protect his reputation, he didn’t defend Margo against these witchcraft allegations, and so she was tragically burned at the stake. Subsequently, he became full of remorse, and the only way he could deal with this remorse was to fight in the battle of Diddington. He was eventually found dead one morning on the battlefield.

The Owen group then moved on to the next phase of their experiment: contacting the spirit of Philip. They had even drawn a picture of him to make the whole biography of their concocted character even more authentic. Thus, in September 1972, they commenced their sittings, in which they would discuss Philip’s life and try to picture him in as much detail as they could. These settings continued for nearly a whole year. However, nothing really significant developed from them, apart from the occasional sense of a presence in the room.

The group began to try different tactics in the hope of contacting Philip’s spirit, and this involved recreating a typical spiritualist séance: sitting around a table in a dimly-lit room with various objects from the era in which Philip would have lived. As it turned out, and much to the group’s excitement, this technique soon produced the results they were striving for, as Philip finally made contact. He would dim the lights, knock on the table, and move it around, and even envelope the group in a strange blanket of icy cold air that would blow right across the table. He would also express strong views on various topics by table rapping.

The culmination of this experiment occurred before a live audience of around 50 people, and this was actually filmed as a documentary. Philip performed his awesome paranormal tricks in front of them without any reservations whatsoever. He made the lights flicker and the table levitate. However, because Philip had been messing around with the lights, it actually prevented the cameras from capturing these amazing feats on film.

Although The Philip Experiment exceeded the expectations that the group had originally hoped for, it never actually met the group’s main goal: to actually see Philip materialize into a spirit. And in regard to what conclusions can be drawn from The Philip Experiment, well, some say that it proves conclusively that ghost do not exist, that they are simply products of our own minds. Others believe that the group did actually contact the spirit world and an entity just used this opportunity to “act” as Philip. So if this spirit wasn’t Philip, who could it have been?

There is also the argument, of course, that the whole thing was just an elaborate hoax. You can actually see the documentary of the experiment on YouTube, and it does seem to suggest that it was all just a set up. For all that though, The Quiet Ones is still quite an interesting story that will delight all fans of supernatural movies.

Mosaic Materials

The tiny blocks or tiles used in making mosaics are still known by the original Latin name – tesserae (sing – tessera). In the modern world, the mosaic artist may select his/her tesserae from a wide range of natural and purpose made synthetic materials. This article will briefly describe some of the options available to the artist or craftsman, for the facing medium of a mosaic artwork. A later article will describe the choices available for grouts and adhesives.


The Ancient Romans were the first nation to exploit the mosaic art form on a large scale. They used mainly natural stone or sometimes pieces of baked tile or polished marble. With a fairly limited palette of colours, their craftsmen created many magnificent mosaic artworks, embellishing walls and floors, that remain as bright and clear today as when they were first created, even after the passage of some two thousand years. In those days, cutting the stone into even square cubes to make the tesserae must have been a laborious task. Today natural stone is cut commercially by diamond bladed saws to supply the artist with very even and relatively inexpensive mini tiles, which can find application for a multitude of purposes – however some artists prefer to use natural rounded pebbles, to provide the specific effects they are looking for.


Vitreous glass tesserae are the cheapest and most widespread mosaic tiles in common use and are used in great numbers by builders and tilers for common tasks such as shower bases and swimming pool edging, but these useful mini tiles can readily be adapted for artistic craftwork. They are usually supplied on a backing sheet of light fabric mesh or even of paper, from which they are easily detached with warm water. Each vitreous tile is usually 20mm square and is extremely durable and almost totally stain resistant. Clear glass tesserae are more expensive and are used for special effects, wherever light plays an important role, similar to stained glass. Broken glass from bottles is often specially tumbled with or without abrasives to give a sea worn look.


Smalti are opaque glass tiles, made by a traditional casting and cutting process in Italy, and are considered by connoisseurs to be the supreme mosaic materials. They come in an almost infinite range of brilliant colours. The molten glass is stained with minerals and may have gold or silver leaf incorporated within them to give incredible sparkle. They were originally developed for use in Church art in the Byzantine era especially for icons and were used throughout the medieval and renaissance periods to produce magnificent art for the cathedrals of Europe..

Mirror Tiles:

These are commercially available and are used extensively in modern craft work.

Ceramic Mosaic Tiles:

These can be bought from craft shops and builders merchants and are sold either on cards or loose and are not too expensive. The range of colours and textures is immense. You can save money by cutting your own from reject wall tiles or from broken crockery.

Metal Strips:

Nowadays it is fashionable to create attractive show pieces, using squares or strips of reflective metal, such as brass, copper, aluminum or stainless steel to create the mosaic effect. More traditionally gold leaf and silver were once used in Church and Palace art – sometimes in conjunction with gemstones and semi precious stones.

Plastics and Resins:

There are thousands of modern materials such as sheets of plastic material that can be cut or cast into tesserae blocks for use in mosaics or in the case of resins the tesserae are formed by being poured into molds. Resins are useful as reflective metallic filings and thin foil strips are easily incorporated to give a sparkle effect.

I hope this short discussion of materials was helpful and will have demonstrated that the modern mosaic artist need only be limited by his/her own imagination in making the choice of materials preferred for this fascinating art form.

Some of the Basic Techniques for Working With Mortar and a Trowel

This article will discuss some of the basic techniques for working with mortar and a trowel, and should be considered as a prerequisite before undertaken any form of construction work. Mortar is the basic bonding material that holds bricks, stones and blocks together, a trowel is the essential tool for working with it. Once you master mixing and trowelling mortar, you can repair walls or paving, or launch more ambitious projects such as constructing a brick wall or laying a path with paving slabs.

For most purposes, you can produce workable mortar by following either of the 2 separate mixing quantities. However, for optimal mixing, a cement calculator is recommended. When mixing mortar, remember that you need only roughly 0.01 cubic meters (about 2kg cement) to lay 25 to 30 bricks, as much as you are likely to have time to use before the mix hardens. With practice, however, you may be able to increase the size of the batch to lay about 60 bricks at a time.

The cement-lime mortar at its normal strength is frequently called a 1:1:6 mix, since it contains Portland cement, hydrated lime and sand in these proportions. It produces a good general-purpose mortar suitable for most weather conditions. The plasticized mortar differs from it in that the lime is replaced by a plasticizer, which is added to the sand before mixing. The plasticizer makes the mortar more resistant to frost damage, so this mix should be used for work that is likely to be exposed to severe weather.

You can get the ingredients pre-mixed in the form of dry mixes, sold under several brand names, to which only water needs to be added. The dry mixes are more expensive than ingredients purchased separately, but the cost may not matter when only small amounts are needed. Sand for mortar can be any clean, dry, finely graded builders or soft sand. Never use beach sand as it contains salts that will weaken and discolour mortar and prevent it from drying properly. The exact amount of water required for the mortar depends on the humidity and temperature as well as the moisture in the sand and cannot be computed in advance. Add water slowly in small amounts, stirring until it is all absorbed. As you can see, working with mortar is not the most difficult of past-times, and can be learnt by even the novice builder or handyman.

British Nobility – Peering at the Peerage

“Be noble! And the nobleness that lies in other men, sleeping, but never dead, will rise in majesty to meet thine own.”

~James Russell Lowell

Do you know the difference between a baron and a lord? Is a marquis higher in rank than a duke? I’m here to give a look at British Nobility.

The nobility is called the peerage, the noblemen themselves known as peers. There are five ranks of peers.

The duke is the highest ranked nobleman below the King or Queen and royal children. The land they oversee is a duchy or Dukedom. It was originally a title for a military commander. The female equivalent or wife of a duke is usually a duchess, though there have been a few accounts of female dukes. Duchesses are referred to as “The Duchess” or “Her Grace”.

The next rank is marquess (British spelling) or marquis (N. American and French spelling). A woman is titled marchioness or marquise.

The third rank is earl or count. They were initially the governor of a county or shire. The wife or widow of an earl is a countess.

Viscount is the fourth tier, usually the eldest son of an earl, holding this title while their father is still alive. It can also refer to the person administering a district as the representative of an earl. The female equivalent is the viscountess.

Lowest on the list is baron, though in Great Britain they are addressed with Lord. During the Middle Ages, a baron held lands directly from the king. The woman is a baroness.

Lord comes from loaf-guardian (loaf-kneader for Lady), the land holder providing food for his followers. It is a term for anyone in power and authority, not a specific rank. Anyone below a duke can use the informal title “Lord X”.

In modern day Britain, these titles are mostly formality. They are not all landholders or military leaders.

Titles of wives and children of peers are technically courtesy titles, not held in his/her own right. Children of barons and viscounts are prefixed by “The Honourable”. Sons of dukes and marquesses may use the title Lord. You can tell the difference between a courtesy title and a peerage title by the way their name is introduced. Peerages don’t use first names. If the “Lord” comes before the first name, it is a courtesy title. If it comes before the surname, it is a peerage. An example of the latter is Alfred, Lord Tennyson.

A peerage is only inherited, and only when the previous holder dies. Courtesy titles, on the other hand, can be granted by birth or marriage.

How Does a Painter Estimate a Paint Job?

There are at least three primary ways that a painter might estimate a paint job.

These would be “guestimating”, square footage of the area to be painted, and a detailed “take-off”.

“Guestimating” is when the painter or estimator comes to the job, looks things over, and in 5 minutes hand write an estimate on a scrap of paper, a match book or the back of the business card. The benefits of this type of estimate are that the painter may convince the owner that this painter is an amazing person, a wizard of painting, a guru of the paint world. I mean how else can the painter only spend five minutes in the house and produce an estimate so quickly. Another benefit is that the painter doesn’t have to put any energy into the estimate. The negatives to this type of estimate are many. One is that the client may have other contractors come to do the estimate and may see that the other painters don’t guess, or “wing-it”, they spend a good amount of time asking questions and measuring. The second negative is that this method is of course highly inaccurate, and can cause problems for the owner and the painter. The owner probably will get an inferior job, if the painter starts out with an inferior estimate then just how good of a paint job will the crew do? The painter will probably lose money because things get missed or overlooked with this unprofessional approach.

The square footage approach to estimating is when the painter measures the square footage of the floor or floors of the areas to be painted and quickly multiplies the square footage time the price per square feet, that someone told him would work or else he has averaged his estimates and came up with an average price that he may or may not adjust. This technique is how builders compare estimates and is probably where the painter learned to estimate, a truly poor way to estimate. The downfalls of this type of estimate are pretty much the same as the “guestimate”. One thing is that no two paint jobs are ever alike, one may have lots of doors another may be just walls. This is the painter who scratches his head and wonders why the company never makes any money or loses money.

The “Detailed Estimate”, is where the painter or estimator carefully measures the ceilings and walls, then counts and notes the different types of doors, windows and moldings. The painter then calculates cleanup, preparation and cleanup. The painting contractor or estimator takes the total hours and multiplies the hours times the contractor’s historical labor times that have been saved from previous work. This painter generally has a better grasp of the paint job. This estimate is highly accurate and very professional. It is unusual if the contractor loses money on estimates that are done using this technique and the client can rest assured that the job will be done to the detail of the estimate.

How To Clean Schonbek Crystal Chandeliers

If you are fortunate enough to own any of the Schonbek crystal chandeliers then you will want to know how to clean them properly and safety in order to keep them shimmering. How often you will need to clean them will depend on the area in which they are situated and how much dirt, dust, or smoke filters through the area.

Basically, you will want to clean all crystal chandeliers the same way as you clean Schonbek crystal chandeliers. You may also want to use a feather duster between cleanings or any kind of duster with an extension handle, if needed, that repels dust. When it is time to clean the chandelier, you will want to wear white cotton gloves as the crystals will show fingerprints.

Schonbek recommends that you use one part isopropyl alcohol with three parts water that has been distilled. Once you have combined the mixture, pour it into a spray bottle. Now all you have to do is spray one of your gloves with the mixture and use that hand to clean the chandelier. You can use the other hand to dry the crystals.

If your chandelier is very dirty then you may need to remove the crystals in order to properly clean it. If you do this, be sure and make note of where each piece goes so that when you reassemble the chandelier there won’t be any problems. You may find that with some styles of chandeliers that you have to remove the trim in order to get to the crystals. You want to do this very carefully and make sure you know how to put it back together. Some people find it helpful to draw a diagram of their Schonbek crystal chandeliers before they take them apart. You may also have gotten a diagram when you originally purchased your chandelier and if so, this is one of the reasons why you want to keep it.

If your crystals are very dirty you can also carefully wash them in a pan of sudsy water as long as you only use mild detergent. Although there are some commercial crystal cleaners on the market, Schonbek and other crystal chandelier manufacturers don’t recommend using these because they could contain harsh chemicals that might degrade the crystals over time.

The beauty of crystal chandeliers is that they sparkle and glimmer in the light but they also show fingerprints, dirt, and grime so you will want to keep them clean. However, it is relatively easy to keep your Schonbek crystal chandeliers glimmering and by taking care of the crystal you can enjoy your lighting fixtures for a long time.

Bleeding After Being Spayed

If you dog has started bleeding after being spayed there may be cause for concern.

The spaying of a young dog is a routine operation. It does, however, as with all operations, carry various risks. There is the risk involved with the anesthetic as well as the risk of bleeding after being spayed. This could be due to stitches being pulled out, infection or an internal hemorrhage. A small amount of fresh blood loss is going to be natural after an operation and spaying is a major procedure which will involve making a cut into the abdominal cavity.

If your dog does start to bleed you must make sure that you keep a careful eye on her for the next hour or two. If it is superficial bleeding from the wound, it should stop shortly. Your dog will be keen to lick the wound to keep it clean and to some extent she should be allowed to continue. Do not, however, let her lick it too much as this will aggravate the wound and disturb the stitches. If you think that there is excessive bleeding after being spayed you should return to the surgery to make sure that all is in order.

If bleeding after being spayed is due to the dislodging of her stitches it may be that the veterinarian surgeon will have to re-stitch the wound. This could involve another anaesthetic and if the surgery feels that this has been caused by a lack of supervision by yourself, you may find that you will be paying another vets bill. It is wise to take great care of your dog whilst she has her stitches as she could suffer greatly if they are not allowed to do their job and heal the wound successfully. If they become loose and need re-stitching, your dog will have to go through additional trauma and discomfort. Any bleeding from the dislodged or pulled stitches will be fresh red blood. You must seek help to reduce the chances of infection and to ensure the wound heals neatly.

Your dog should be kept calm and quiet when she returns from her operation. She will be feeling very groggy to start with and is unlikely to be very lively, but, over the next few days it is important to keep her fairly still. If she becomes too active she will be at risk of hemorrhaging from internal blood vessels that have been disrupted. This can be a serious cause of bleeding after being spayed and she should be taken to the surgery for further advice.

Whatever the reason for bleeding after being spayed, if it is a significant amount or for any length of time, it is accompanied by swelling or any other ill effects, take your dog straight back to the veterinary clinic and seek further assistance. They know the patient and the procedure and are easily able to help you and your pet.

Plastic or Metal? The Story of the Snow Shovel

The lowly snow shovel has been around in various forms for hundreds of years. Starting with some of its earliest forms made from wood the snow shovel has progressed through the years and can now be found both in plastic and metal forms. With out this lowly and humble piece of equipment a good part of the world would struggle to maintain a comfortable form of life. Moving snow is essential to both our economy and our standards of living. Without it we would not be able to get out of our houses or for that matter keep our home safe.

Besides keeping the driveway clear or the side walks clean often time we must also shovel off our homes, sheds and cars so they will not suffer damage. Without doing this we would be stuck staying inside or trudging through the snow on our own two feet which is no easy task. In the not so distant past snow removal simply involved citizens going into the streets to level the drifts for sleigh traffic by hand. Today of course we have many other ways to remove snow but the shovel is still the most common of those methods for our personal properties. The question here is which makes the better shovel. Plastic or metal?

The metal shovel came first. At first these were heavy and cumbersome being made of steel. Often this also kept size to a minimum as the larger the blade the heavier it became. Today the metal shovel is often made of aluminum so the weight problem is a thing of the past. You can find them in all different sizes and shapes. Some of the most popular ones are similar in shape to a snow plow that you might find on a truck. With its curved blade it is easier to push the snow up in to piles. You can still get the standard flat style as well which is used better for scooping the snow up and throwing it into piles. One draw back of the metal shovel is that the tend to bend when you don’t have an absolutely flat surface to shovel. Also snow can stick easily to some of them and when you try to get the snow off by hitting it on the ground upside down you usually end up bending it more. All in all though it is light weight and easy to use.

The plastic shovel is newer of course since plastics were not always around. They are light weight which is one of their greatest advantages. You can get them in all shapes and size just like their metal counterparts and with plastic you get more color choices as well. Snow does not tend to stick to these shovels as much as the metal ones and you can hit them on rough edges or hard surfaces and not worry about bending them. There is one concern with the use of plastic shovels though; they can break. Depending on the type and quality of plastic used they can break in colder weather. Another concern some have about using plastic is that when they do break and you give it the toss it can harm the environment since the plastic takes a long time to degrade. Some could argue the same for metal but metal is easier to recycle.

So which one do you prefer or say is the best choice? For me I will stick with plastic. With its light weight, ease of use and no stick qualities I find plastic the better choice. I also prefer the scoop style rather then the traditional flat style. I can still pile the snow up high when needed but the scoop allows me to push the snow around with less lifting since I do not need to empty it. Which ever shovel you choose or prefer I am sure it will get the job done. And unless we all decide to heat our driveways and sidewalks so that snow and ice never sticks; we will always have a place for the lowly but very essential snow shovel.

Sinus Lift

A sinus lift is needed if there is insufficient bone in the area of the upper premolars or molars for dental implant placement. Dental implants needed a minimum depth and width of bone in order to be placed for long term function. Unfortunately in the upper premolar and molar region it is common to see bone loss once these teeth have been removed for some time. The maxillary sinuses are found on either side of the nose and are lined by a thin membrane. During the sinus lift procedure the membrane needs to be ‘lifted’ and bone deposited underneath.

When do we need a sinus lift?

  1. There is a lack of bone in the region of the upper premolars and molars. Sometimes the sinuses may be very large and also enlarge after teeth are removed making bone for dental implants limited. The upper jaw generally has less bone than the lower jaw.
  2. Gum disease causes bone loss. The upper posterior teeth are commonly affected by gum disease and the bone loss which ensues means that a sinus lift may be needed if implants are to replace missing teeth
  3. When natural teeth are extracted, it is natural for the surrounding bone to ‘shrink’ as well. This bone resorption may affect the volume of bone which is needed for dental implants to be placed.
  4. The maxillary sinuses vary in size from one person to another. Some sinuses are larger than others. It has also been shown that the sinuses increase in size with age.

Sinus lift preparation.

Prior to undergoing a sinus lift procedure it is important to understand the anatomy of the sinus. A CT scan is recommended of the area in order to see the area to be treated in 3 dimensions. The sinus lift procedure is usually carried out with artificial bone. In some cases the bone may be derived from your jaw bone or chin. This is less popular as it causes pain and discomfort in the donor area where the bone is harvested from.

How It’s Done

The dentist will administer some local anaesthetic to the area, a small flap is raised to expose the area where the bone is needed. A small window is made in order to introduce the bone into the maxillary sinus. Once the window is completed the surgeon will gently raise the sinus membrane and introduce the artificial bone very carefully. The sinus lift procedure has become more popular since the development of dental implants. The procedure was introduced about 20 years ago.


After the procedure it is very important that you do no blow your nose or sneeze forcefully. It is not uncommon to have some bleeding from the nose after the surgery. Antibiotics and pain killers will be prescribed by the surgeon. It is also recommended that an anti histamine medication be used if you suffer from sneezing with mild allergies.

Dissolvable stitches are used to close the wound, these will usually stay in place for 10-14 days afterwards. In some cases the dental implants will have been placed at the same time as the sinus lift.


The thin sinus membrane can be perforated accidentally during the procedure. This is quite common as the membrane is VERY thin. In some cases it may be impossible to raise the sinus membrane without having a perforation or tear on the membrane. In these cases it may be possible to repair the perforation using collagen based artificial membranes to cover the perforation. If the perforation is larger then the dentist may prefer not to complete the sinus lift and wait for the membrane to heal. The sinus lift can be redone after the membrane has healed. A sinus membrane may take 3-4 months to heal. Usually the healed membrane is thicker and more resistant so the second attempt is generally ‘easier’. Infections although quite rare can occur. This can lead to the graft not integrating with the natural bone. This may happen if the grafted area has a poor blood supply.

Smoking – It is not recommended to have any sinus lift procedure if you are a smoker. The chances of the graft failing due to poor blood supply are quite high.

What to do if you suspect something is wrong after undergoing a sinus lift procedure

Contact your surgeon if you have any of the following:

  1. Swelling and pain which gradually gets worse with time, it is normal for discomfort and pain for 2-3 days afterwards. Usually this is controlled with painkillers, however if you have progressive pain contact your surgeon.
  2. Persistent bleeding 2 days after the surgery.
  3. Some of the bony material may have become dislodged after sneezing or blowing your nose
  4. You have a fever.

Making a Great First Impression With an Elevator Speech

You walk into an elevator, you are the only one in it, then the gal/guy who lives 2 flights up (that you’ve wanted to meet) gets on. Quick, say something! You say, “Uh, hi, uh, my name is Jack, and uh, you live up stairs, uh…” Door opens, the gal/guy runs for her/his life. And you just want to take the walk of shame.

You are at a chamber of commerce networking event, across from you is the CEO of your “dream company.” What do you do? What do you say?

Quick, there’s the woman who you know can get you in for that interview. What do you do? What do you say?

So, what the heck is an elevator speech? Well, it’s a quick 15 to 30 second introductory statement of yourself. Some call it an elevator speech, because if you ran into someone in an elevator, you do not have much time to get your point across. Obviously, you will use this micro statement in a whole lot of other places than in an elevator, but you get the point, right.

Fact is, whatever you call it, it is an important networking tool for marketing yourself, breaking the ice with people you meet or making a run for those opportunities before the others get to it. Think of it as a sound bite, a movie trailer for someone to remember you by, and intrigued enough to want to see the whole movie (you). So, the initial principle is a sound bite that is clear, concise, informative and engaging. Got all that. The goal is not to lay yourself bare on the first contact but, again, offer up a movie trailer of you.

Really, having a prepared elevator speech with you at all times, like a business card – another networking tool, is more about you than anything else. Having a well rehearsed, introductory statement that you can whip up on anyone is such a huge confidence builder. If you are in an elevator and that dream gal/guy walks in, wow, knowing what to say and to say it with confidence is huge. Here’s the other thing, when you are actively in the job market, everyone – everyone – is 6 degrees away from your dream job. Having the speech, business card (see earlier article), ready is crucial.

So, as you prepare your elevator speech, you do need to consider a few things. First and foremost, it must sound effortless and natural. It has to sound conversational. Write a brief statement that you think works and then practice, practice, practice. You practice in front of the mirror, to your friends, to your mentor. Key is not so much to memorize it, as it is to know it. To know it backwards and sideways and forwards. It has to sound natural. The person listening has to say, this one is speaking to me!

As we talked about previously regarding business cards, your micro speech has to be memorable, and in this case, also sincere. Let this brief statement give your listener a peek-a-boo look into your personality. Write and rewrite, practice and refine. First time, your statement might be one or two minutes long. That is okay. Just practice, refine, practice, refine. What is verbose; what is not necessary; what really is not going to be important to the listener (maybe important to you, though), seek counsel.

When it is showtime, have confidence in what you have been practicing. Visualize confidence. Visualize getting a positive reaction to your micro statement. And if you get a little nervous or feel a few butterflies fluttering about in your gut, that is okay. That is probably normal. You are at a network event, everyone is probably feeling the same, but who is prepared. Visualize success.

Make eye contact. Smile. Extend that hand and shake with a “firm” grip. Speak slowly, stop for natural breaks in the conversation. And, by the way, if the conversation goes well, cut it short. Excuse yourself, set up time to get together later. Leave them wanting more, not you be desperate. And if the interest is not there, just excuse yourself politely and leave. Do not waste your time or theirs.

By the way, this works for cold calling. I will talk more about this in a later article, but by all means, this is a perfect time to use your elevator speech. Especially, if you have to leave a voicemail. Practice, come across natural. Why you are calling, how you would benefit him or her, how you are the solution to his or her problem and asking for a call back.

Lastly, your elevator or micro statement must end with a call to action. If you do not, then this whole exercise was for naught.

One other thing, every situation is different and you must have the wherewithal to adapt your speech to the circumstance you find yourself in. If you practice and refine and practice and refine, then this will not be a problem, as you will know what needs to be said backwards and forwards.

In short, having an elevator speech can only help improve your chances for getting that job you want. So, I urge to develop one now, if you have not already done so.

License Plate Search – How to Trace License Plate Numbers Online

Do you have a license plate or license tag number and you need to find out the name and address of the owner of the vehicle? If so, you might have already realized that there is no free online database of license plate numbers.

Don’t worry. There is still hope. If you need to conduct a reverse license plate number search online, below are several methods to accomplish your goal.

  • The first method is to hire a private investigator. Find your local phone book and turn to the private investigation pages. Start calling and get prices for how much they charge to run a license plate trace. You can expect to pay $150 to $300 to get this service completed in your local area.
  • The next method is to use a large online private investigation service like Abika.com or BestPeopleSearch.com. These services will charge you $79 or more to search by license plate number. You will normally get back a combination of the following information: the first and last Name, address, registration and expiration date, make and model of vehicle, VIN number, title number, lien holder name. These services can normally get information for most states in the United States as Canadian Provinces. License plate data for additional countries are also available depending on the service.
  • The third option is to join a private investigation tools membership service where you have access to databases and resources used by private investigators. These memberships normally start at $29 to $59 per year and give you access to all sorts of people search databases used by private investigators. This is a good choice if you’re willing to do the work yourself and you want to save a little money. The downside to this option is there is no guarantee that you will be successful in your search.

As you can see from the options above, there is no such thing as a free reverse license plate search. About the only way you can get it done for free is if you know a law enforcement officer who will conduct the search for you (they have access to all of the databases).

Different Types of Pressure Cookers

Pressure cookers are useful equipments that let food to cook without the entry and escape of air and fluid from the cooker. Either steaming, or boiling can be done in cookers, this makes the equipment a necessity for all families as well as eating places and catering companies, wherever quick delicious cooking is required.

In a standard cooking pot, you will have to put a lot of water when boiling or steaming. This is mainly because the fluid evaporates much more quickly than when in a cooker. Also, more water implies a longer time to reach the boiling point which consumes more energy; more gas or electric power. Ultimately, one of the main reasons why cookers are so popular is mainly because they let food to cook at a much quicker rate.

Different types of Pressure Cookers

Pressure cookers can be classified according to their generations.

1) First Generation – These traditional old type of cookers work by technique of a weight bearing valve. This valve regulates the pressure inside the apparatus. Nonetheless, old models have only one pressure mode; thus, decreasing their dependability as well as usage options.

2) Second Generation – These new type of cookers have substituted the old valves with spring loaded ones. You can set the spring to either increase or decrease the pressure within the cooker. Also, they do not discharge any steam mainly because they are tightly sealed.

3) Third Generation – These are the most recent varieties of cookers offered in the market. Also called as electric pressure cookers, they routinely control the set pressure inside the cooker. Employing programmed microchips, these cookers monitor many data inside the cooker while the food is cooking. This helps adjust the options if the pressure is too much or if it is too low. Third generation cookers are broadly used these days.

With the technological know-how that we have these days, modern pressure cooking has been enhanced to a larger level. When cooking employing electric pressure cookers, consumers are assured of a quality and risk-free cooking experience.

When you get a cooker, make sure to get the best ones like the electric pressure cooker. This will save you from the many hassles and disadvantages that a normal or typical cooker could have. Don’t be afraid to try the new, since new ones have a reason why they were developed: since they are better than the old.