Tips for Your Sari to Look Brand New

You and only you know just how gorgeous you are and how much pains you went through to select that beautiful designer sari and only you will truly understand how horrible it is to have a stain on that perfect sari. So here are a few sari care tips to ensure that even your 7 year old sari looks brand new and there is absolutely no sign of stains.

Saris are available in a variety or prints, colors, work and just as many fabrics. Every fabric has to be tended to differently and taken care of in a different manner.

1. Cotton Saris:

Let's start with the basics. You will notice that when you purchase a cotton sari, it is stiff. That is because the sari has plenty of starch – something that is essential during the weaving or painting procedure. It is quite simple to get the starch out. All you have to do is dip the sari in a bucket of warm salt water and let it soak for a while. Ensure that you soak saris individually since they may bleed in their first wash. Never wring a wet cotton sari. It loosens the fabric. Instead, gently squeeze out the excess water and hang it up to dry in direct sunlight.

2. Chiffon and Georgette Saris:

Chiffon and Georgette are both flowing substances that look awesome when adorned. It may be the unique delicateness that adds flavor to your look but it is exactly that feature of the fabrics that make it so tough to care for. It is reliably easier to wash them. They can be both hand washed – a preferable option if the sari is filled with work – or machine washed in the delicate mode. However, the real issue begins with the ironing and adorning. You have to be very careful while ironing these saris because a slight increase in heat will cause holes. Similarly, it is advisable not to use safety pins in these saris since they may tear.

3. Tissue and Organza Saris:

These saris also firmly belong to the delicate category and require plenty of care. Be careful about how you dry the sari. Also, never leave the sari hanging since it alters the basic shape. These saris have to be wrapped in muslin cloth and preferably dry cleaned. If you do not use these saris often, make sure you take them out and re fold them time and again to avoid any tears.

Silk Saris:

They are just as expensive as they are gorgeous. Ensure that you always dry clean silk saris, especially crepe silks and heavy brocades. While it is possible to hand wash silk saris, I would strongly advise against that. However, if you do feel like hand washing your silk sari, then be very careful. Also add a small drop of hair conditioner to the rinse water. It helps soften the fabric and give it a beautiful sheen. Machine wash is a strict no no. Wrap your silk saris in a muslin cloth and store them in a cool, dry place.

PS3 Error Code 8001050f Explained – 3 Tips To Help Fix Your Playstation 3 Error Code

The PS3 8001050f error code is a common problem encountered by PlayStation gamers. If you are not able to play any games of your own or play any downloads from the PlayStation store even before its expiration date, then you might be facing this error. Alternately, if you experience missing trophies and notice the time and date reverted to January 1, 2000, you probably have an error code 8001050f.

What is the PS3 Error code 8001050f?

8001050f is a kind of error that is caused by the digital clock that is in the internal part of your PlayStation hardware. According to the manufacturer, this error was a result of Playstations around the world falsely assuming that February 2010 was a leap year. A certain bug that affects the internal clock and is called the trophy registration error by the manufacturer causes the error.

When this error came out, PlayStation 3 owners were advised to avoid using the game console until the problem was fixed. PS3 slim gamers were not affected by this error. As a result, the PS3 trophy data and other game data were lost and no longer recovered by the user.

How to fix the PS3 8001050f?

First of all, you need to save all your game data on your thumb stick and then delete it from your PS3. Then turn off your gaming console and allow it to rest for a few minutes. You need to then restart your PS3 and fix the errors by the methods below and then copy all the games back to your PS3.

Fix 1). Change date / time directly on your console

Select Settings on the Xross Media Bar (XMB) and click on Date & Time Settings. You need to change the date to any date after February 28, 2010. You can now use your PlayStation to play all the games that you want.

Fix 2). Change date / time through the Internet

Connect to the internet through the WLAN and use the Browser function on your PS3. Go to settings and select Date and time settings. When you are in these settings, choose to 'Set via Internet' and change the date to any date after Feb 28, 2010.

Fix 3). Fixing by opening up your PS3

Unplug your PS3 and open up your console to locate the internal battery. By doing so, you will be void of the warranty if it is still valid. The battery would be present under the motherboard on the side near the USB inputs. Remove the battery for a few minutes and replace it and assemble the PS3 back. Boot the system and set the correct date / time and everything should be fixed.

After following the above steps, you will have a good chance of fixing error 8001050f on your PS3.

Pros and Cons of Gas Powered Airsoft Guns

Priced somewhere between spring and electric powered guns, gas powered Airsoft guns can be used for single shot, semi-automatic or fully automatic operation. They tend to be used by collectors due to their very authentic look and feel in use, but serious gamers will tend to use electric Airsoft guns for regular use.

The most common gas used is a mixture of polysiloxane lubricant and propane known as ‘green gas’. Less commonly used are ‘red gas’, a chlorofluorocarbon that has been banned for use in the USA and many other countries due to its ozone-depleting properties, and compressed CO2, nitrogen or air. Compressed gases need high operating pressures that can tend to cause damage to the guns due to the pressures involved, particularly damage to the bolt and slide.

Gas Powered Airsoft Guns: Pros

A major advantage of gas guns over spring guns has already been stated: they can be used for semi- and fully automatic operation, whereas spring guns are limited to single shot use. This is because the spring has to be tensioned back after each individual shot.

An electric mechanism cannot be used in many pistols due to the size constraints imposed by their design. It is just not possible to manufacture an electric Airsoft pistol that replicates the genuine guns produced by many manufacturers. Those that collect true replicas will therefore tend to choose a gas-operated pistol rather than sacrifice authenticity.

Another benefit of a gas Airsoft gun is the ‘blowback’ mechanism. This mechanism is not available on all gas guns, and costs a bit extra, but if you want the authentic feel of a gun when firing then it’s worth the extra cost. With an Airsoft gas blowback gun, the slide moves back with each shot and gives you a recoil effect – just like in a real gun.

Many people choose gas as their preferred Airsoft automatic rifle because of this degree of realism – but make sure that the clip can hold a good number of bbs or you won’t be shooting on auto for very long! You can get blowback with other forms of Airsoft power, but gas is best and most gas guns are now fitted with it.

Gas guns offer more power and hence range than electric or spring powered Airsoft guns. Some offer a muzzle velocity of around 400 ft/sec, and this feature is best used in semi or fully automatic mode.

Gas Powered Airsoft Guns: Cons

The regulation and distribution of gas in an Airsoft gun means that gas guns are more complex mechanically than spring guns and electric guns, although are priced somewhere between the two. Some believe the simplicity of the spring guns in play make them more convenient, and when also taking cost into consideration, tend to prefer spring powered Airsoft guns to gas. Others prefer to go for electric or non-blowback gas guns for certain specialist uses such as target shooting.

There is a potential problem associated with liquefied gases such as green gas, in that the gas is very cold when in liquefied form. It can therefore cool down the mechanism of the gun in areas that are in contact with the liquid rather than its gaseous form, and this can slow down its firing rate and range. This is particularly so in automatic mode.

Not only that, but if the propellant is moved at high velocities through narrow apertures, it can freeze up and not only slow the gun down but also stop it altogether. Many believe this to be unlikely, but it can happen. You could use CO2, compressed nitrogen or air, but that can also damage the mechanism.

Blowback or Non-Blowback?

Many buy gas guns for their realism, but electric or spring powered Airsoft guns for play. A problem associated with using blowback with automatic firing in gaming is that it uses gas up quickly, and you may have to carry spare canisters around, slowing you up in the field. So many prefer not to use blowback or to use electric guns for play in auto mode.

Not many gas guns are now available without blowback, but most sniper rifles exclude the feature. That is because the extra gas needed for the slide or bolt operation reduces the potential range of the bb in a sniper rifle, and hence reduces accuracy over distance. So electric or non-blowback gas for sniping, electric or spring for gaming, and gas for authenticity.

Gas powered Airsoft guns offer a number of advantages and disadvantages, but when assessing their pros and cons it is likely best to consider your purpose for buying one and then decide which type best suits your needs. There are no doubts whatsoever that gas power offers a gun that looks and feels like the real thing in use, but that blowback reduces gas life, particularly in full automatic firing mode

When considering the pros and cons of gas powered Airsoft guns, keep all of that in mind, but if authenticity and versatility are your main considerations then gas wins every time.

Make Concrete Blocks – Build Your Own Concrete Block Machine

Making concrete blocks is a highly profitable enterprise. There is a constant strong demand for them. They are a basic commodity which is used in building projects all over North America and as a matter fact around the world.

Concrete blocks are not here today gone tomorrow gadgets which are in demand today but not next year. They are a necessary item for many types of building from large commercial projects to garages or backyard barbeques. As long as building is going on anywhere the demand will continue.

For the entrepreneur who wants to start a really solid business, with low startup cost, the concrete block business is a perfect opportunity. It is possible to start in your garage or backyard, using home made hand molds, to easily make one hundred blocks daily. One person can accomplish this in a good day's work. You can make the necessary molds from plywood and sheet metal which can easily be done in a home workshop.

It is easy to start part time, working evenings and weekends, and to gradually build a very profitable full time business. All that is required is the home made molds and a supply of Portland cement, gravel, sand and water. The start up cost is minimal and excellent profits are possible.

Working from home, with low overhead cost, you have a major advantage over large concrete block manufacturers who have to pay for business concessions and wages.

Concrete products are heavy and bulky so the cost of transporting them to a building site from distant points is considerable. You have no such transport costs and can supply concrete products to local buyers at a highly competitive price and still make a handsome profit.

Needless to say, one person working alone, with hand molds, will be limited in production. Working part time may soon not be enough to fill the demand for your products.

You will now be at the point where you can go full time in this profitable business. You will also need to get a concrete block making machine which will make hundreds of blocks per day. You will require help and enough space to store the blocks while drying. The blocks must be washed well before delivery to your buyers.

Buying a concrete block making machine is quite an expensive proposition. However if you want to keep the cost down there is another way. You can quite easily build your own concrete block machine.

Can you really build a machine yourself? Truthfully yes you can, and it is not a difficult project. There are plans with instructions available from which you can build a concrete block making machine.

The materials required are auto parts and sheet metal. Some welding is required. If this is not one of your skills a welding shop can do it for you. For just a few hundred dollars you can build a machine that works just as well as the expensive commercial machines.

You are now equipped to make concrete blocks in large quantities. You will be able to supply any building project, big or small, at a very good price.

Concrete block making as a business is a very good choice. There is strong demand for your products everywhere. By starting your business as I have discussed here you will be successful.

You can work at your present job till you are ready to take on a full time business, as and when the demand for your products grows. Why not find out some more about this great business opportunity? You have much to gain and absolutely nothing to lose.

Protecting The Car With A Garage Or A Car Cover?

When winter comes along, many people think that cars now belong indoors. They know that leaving a car outdoors unprotected is not an option. It is a recipe for disaster. Any car that is left parked outside, without any form of protection, is guaranteed to get wrecked in some way or another. The fact remains; a car that is uncovered has a shorter life expectancy.

So the question remain, what form of protection to provide? There is a choice of two forms of protection; a garage, or a car cover. Both have their own advantages and disadvantages. They must be weighed up by the individual, to see which is the better of the two for him.


The advantage of garages is that when parked in a garage, the car is completely closed off from any form of weather condition, and therefore cannot, in any way, be harmed by them. Garages are also very convenient for the car owner, as he always know where his car is parked, and never has to search for a space. Another advantage of garages is that they can be used by anyone. More or less any car can drive into the garage and be protected.

However, the disadvantages of having a garage largely lie in the money and space involved. Garages are expensive to build as they are not merely three wall and a door. There is more to a garage, and the money mounts up. Aside from this, a lot of people simply do not have the space to build a garage. Even if they did, they would much prefer to use that space for extending the house, rather than building a room to keep a car over night.

In addition, when a car is stored in a garage it is not dust and dirt free. Whilst the garage may be able to protect it from the detriments of nature, and car thieves, the car is still exposed to dust and dirt, and hence will still need constant cleaning.

Car covers:

The main advantage of car covers is the how compact they are. Car covers, when not in use, can be folded up and tucked away,out of sight. They can even be stored in the trunk of the car. This enables the car owner to take it along with him wherever he goes, so that he and his car are always covered. This is something that garages can never have – portability.

Car cover are also inexpensive, and cost effective. Cover covers are a drop in the bucket compared to the expense of a garage, and they also provide excellent coverage and protection. In fact they will even protect the car from dust and dirt, unlike garages. They will be able to save the car owner hundreds of dollars over the years that would have otherwise been used for cleaning, polishing and repairs.

On the other hand, the good car covers only come custom-made. This means that they are designed to fit the one car, perfectly. The cover will fit the car like a glove, maximising the protection, but it means that no other car can use it. Thus, it cannot be shared amongst family and friends, and when a new car is bought, the cover needs to be changed too.

In addition, car covers are not as sturdy as garages. Yes they will be able to protect the car from just about everything, including knocks and scrapes. Covers absorb the impact without leaving a mark on the car itself. However this is on a small scale, and should there be a more fierce collision, the cover will be inept at shielding the car.

Different Types of Portable Cranes

When it comes to heavy equipment, there are primarily two different types of cranes, portable and stationary. These two groups can then be further categorized into several different subgroups such as hydraulic truck cranes and intelligent lifting devices. This article will discuss only the different portable cranes that are available. No matter the type however, the basic crane must possess a boom mounted onto a type of platform. Primarily discussed will be the portable pickup truck cranes, the portable gantry cranes, and the rough terrain crane.

First we will discuss truck mounted or portable pickup truck cranes, which are possibly the most well known. These machines consist of a typical crane that is mounted onto a truck carrier. This is an excellent combination which allows for maximum mobility. They do not require any type of special equipment in order to transport them from one location to another as they are able to travel themselves on the highways. They come in a wide variety of weight capacities, from 15 tons to 1300 tons, so no matter what type of application you require them for you should be able to find the perfect match for you. In order to provide extra stability, outriggers are installed. They also move more slowly when carrying a load to prevent from tipping.

Even though the typical gantry crane is stationary, there is a group of portable gantry cranes that are available that travel along train tracks. They are typically mounted onto either a single beam known as a mono girder, or a double beam called a twin girder. The gantry system which is used to support the frame uses a system of beams and wheels which allow the machine to run along the train tracks. They come in all different sizes and can be used for several different applications. Some are able to carry very heavy loads such as at ship yards, while others are only suitable for much smaller tasks. One of the most common examples is the container crane which is used for loading and unloading freight ships.

The rough terrain portable cranes are another popular example. They typically use a crane mounted on top of an undercarriage that is designed for all terrain travel. It uses four heavy, rubber tires and is designed primarily for operations that will require the machine to travel off road. In order to provide extra stability when the crane is hoisting a load, outriggers are often used. They are usually single engine machines that use telescopic booms. They are very similar to the crawler crane which uses a set of tracks, or crawlers, instead of tires. The crawler is much more stable so it does not require the use of outriggers. It can even travel fairly quickly when carrying a load as opposed to rough terrain portable cranes which can only move very slowly with a load.

Humminbird Portable Fish Finder Review of the 110, 120, 130 and 140 Fishin’ Buddy Models

The Humminbird portable fish finder Fishin’ Buddy series currently has several models for purchase. They include, in ascending price, the Hummingbird 110, 120, 130 and 140 model units. As the model number and subsequent price increases, there are subsequent additional features that the lower models lack.

All models, except for the 110, have both a single beam down and side sonar at 240 feet and 120 feet, respectively. All have the same power output at 125 watts RMS (roots mean square) and 1,000 watts, peak to peak. They all have a built in temperature gauge, are waterproof, have a backlight, mount with a portable clamp, have a target separation of 2.5 inches and run on 6 AA batteries. Now let us discuss the differences between all 4 models.

The Humminbird 110 Fishin’ Buddy is the most basic unit of the series at an entry level price. The current manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) is $119.99. For just under $120 you will have a portable fish finder that will find fish, but not have all the bells and whistles of the more advanced models. Most anglers looking for a cheap fish finder will be completely satisfied with this unit.

Up one level from the 110 model is the Humminbird 120 fishfinder with a MRSP of $169.99. So for fifty dollars more, what do you get? You get a higher resolution screen, 8-level grayscale instead of only 4-level and side sonar in addition to the single beam down. Is the screen resolution and added grayscale worth another fifty bucks? Perhaps not, but the side sonar is definitely an added bonus.

Next in line is the Humminbird 130 portable fish finder with a MSRP of $219.99. What do you get for yet another fifty bucks? An even higher resolution screen, 16-level vs 8-level grayscale and a 24-40 inch telescoping transducer pole as opposed to the 24 inch fixed pole on the two previous lower models. The transducer extension will be especially helpful for those who plan to use their fish finder on different sized boats, canoes or float tubes.

Then there is the top of the line, the deluxe Humminbird 140 Fishin’ Buddy with a MSRP of $269.99. For yet another fifty dollars you can have a color screen. Everything else on this unit is the same as the 130 model. Most users say the black and white screen works well enough for them, but for those of you who really want the added contrast of a color screen, than you may want to consider this unit. The color screen will help to distinguish between vegetation types, fish schools and individual fish.

For a portable fish finder, Humminbird does offer a pretty good deal with this series no matter which unit you choose. There are other brands to consider such as Norcross Hawkeye F33P, the Garmin 140 or 300c and even the Humminbird Piranhamax 230 portable fish finder. It depends upon which features are important to you and what you are willing to spend. Whatever model you choose, having a portable unit will now allow you to find fish wherever you want to go.

Architectural Interior Photographer Discusses: What Determines a Good Interior Photograph?

Interior Photography is the most challenging of all the professional genres of commercial photography. Every detail is critical; every prop must be correct and in just the right location; busy-ness must be avoided; things must be cleaned up and simplified; lighting can be challenging; and in addition to all that, one must understand how best to portray the "look and feel" of the space that architect of interior designer worked so hard to convey. The photograph will always be better than the reality! It will have clarity of vision; illustrate what your client is selling; have an atmosphere of light (usually created by the photographer's lighting); be inviting; have a feeling of "presence;" have a clean and simple look; and it will have drama and movement.

Some simple rules to start with:

1). Define your client: Who is your client? The architect, builder or realtor will want to show relationships of the design to the space and the intention and flow of the design layout. The interior designer will be concerned more with the furnishings and the details of their design. Architects like drama and usually do not mind some wide-angle distortion, whereas, the interior designer or the product photo my find distortion to be a problem. In any case, the distortion must be used judiciously – it has to contribute to the overall composition in an effective way.

2) Angle: The One point perspective or "head on" view is strong and symmetrical. The Two-point perspective may define the space effectively but pay close attention the how the space of the photograph is divided. The emphasis should be on 2/3 of the composition; do not divide the space in half. For architects and builders, be sure to show significant design detail and take into consideration how the spaces work together. Do not 'try to show too much – keep the viewer's attention on important elements. A couple of good photographs are far more effective than a lot of weak ones. Go for quality, not quantity. Remember the adage: "Less is more" – wide angle does not mean that one should show more, just because it is possible to do so. EVERYTHING in the photograph must hold it's own weight and be accountable to the overall composition. Every angle, line and detail has to "work" in the photograph.

3) Height: A low angle foreshortens and can be very nice for some views, however, it is important to show the important elements of the interior also. Be high enough to separate the elements and keep the composition clean and clear. Avoid a cluttered look and having things "grow out" from the tops of furniture, etc. Occasional a high view is required but usually I find that a little lower than eye level (if one is not too tall) is favorable and pleasant. The higher the lens, the more foreground distortion; A piece of furniture too close to the foreground (especially a round table) will be very distorted with a higher view. Often the foreground will determine the camera height. Having the foreground "fall" out towards the bottom edge of the photograph is very disturbing and must be avoided by either adjusting the camera height, camera position or moving the furniture back from the foreground.

4) Arrangement: After the angle has been determined, frequently the furniture must be rearranged to fit the format and perimeter of the photograph. Sometimes this may be subtle; other times it may be drastic. A pleasing composition and balance must be found and concerns such as distortion of furniture, tangents and "busyness" are addressed at this time. I always get the large pieces in place first and then work down to the smaller scale furniture from there. Everything must be perfect – from the direction and relationships of the furniture to each other as well as their relationship to the room. Always adjust everything "to camera" – the room setting may appear entirely out of place from another vantage point, but it will look correct from the camera position and that is all that matters.

5) Props: The final details in the set are the arrangement of the props. I start by taking out all the clutter and then carefully putting things back or finding other elements that compliment the space. Bookshelves are rearranged to look more uniform and uncluttered, desks and work areas, totally cleaned up. I almost always add fresh flowers and plants to "soften" the look and feel of the space as well as books to fill space on tabletops etc. I like to have height to contain the edges of the image; taller plants can work well for that. Kitchens are particularly challenging to prop; they must look clean and orderly but also look livable. I frequently use bread, bowls of fruit, flowers, etc. Simple breakfast settings of orange juice, coffee bagels and a newspaper can also work well. Pay particular attention to chair legs – they can get very busy looking if not handled carefully. In corporate settings, conference room chairs should have the legs and wheels all going in the same direction, the chairs should all be spaced exactly the same – again – it may not appear that way way from another position, but it must look very uniform form the camera position. A clean, styled uniform look, that is also loose enough to feel real, is the key to successful propping. One of the most important qualities that the interior photographer must have is patience as well as being extremely detail oriented. It is essential to have everything perfect; the direction of the cup handles; the arrangement of the flowers in the vase; the space between accessories on the table; lamp shades must be straight and undistorted; the color of the page in the open book. Every element in the interior photograph must "play" off and work with each other, as well as within the context of the whole.

6). Lighting: Good lighting separates the average photographers from the great ones. Light defines the feel of the space and it gives it a three-dimensional look. The trend laTely, especially since the advent of digital photography, has been to use predominately ambient light. For some clients and under specific conditions this may be acceptable, however, compared to what good lighting can do for the scene, the results are very flat, uninspiring and "dead" My approach to lighting varies depending on the space and client, but my philosophy is consistent – I light to create a beautiful photograph; my lighting always enhances the space and I use my lighting to lead the viewers eye through the space and feature important details and design elements. A good photograph will always look better than reality. Sometimes my lighting will simply enhance the existing light, other times I will totally transform the interior or the exterior of the building. Whether the lighting set-up is complex or simple, good lighting will always enhance the overall look of the photograph; it will add highlights and shadows, separate tonality (especially with dark with tones and shadows) and emphasize texture; it will bring saturation to color and a feeling of LIFE to what would otherwise be a lackluster image. Regardless of how beautiful the space is and how well the designed lighting adds atmosphere – adding lights will ALWAYS help the scene. The only exception to this rule would be in very large spaces, and even, then placing lights in strategic spots can make a big difference.

As with anything else in life, in order for one to excel in a particular field one must be passionate about it. Photographing interiors is a highly specialized field and it is not for the feint of heart. An Interior photographer must be very detailed oriented, and have a love for and at least a layman understanding of, architecture and interior design. Often times the client will totally depend on your expertise, so one's knowledge of what "works" in the interior photograph must be at least on a level as the professional what you are working for. Personally, I find the blend of technical details with aesthetics to be very pleasant; every shoot is like solving a puzzle – the work never gets mundane or boring.

Metatarsalgia / Pain In The Ball Of The Foot

A very common cause of metatarsalgia is Morton's neuroma, which is a growth on a nerve. T his growth usually occurs at the 3rd plantar interdigital nerve that innervates the toes. It can however affect other nerves. Morton's neuroma occurs most often unilaterally rather than bilaterally (one foot), and is more common in women than men. Morton's neuroma can be a result of a malformation of the bones of the foot beginning in our early years of development. A flattening of the arch or the foot turning in or out (pronation) can be a causative factor.

A phenomenon often found in individuals with Morton's neuroma is when the toes are flexed (curled under), it will be found that the 2nd toe is quite a bit longer than the others and somewhat shorter than the normal 1st metatarsal.

Pain in the metatarsal area (ball of foot) can also be caused by stress fractures. A stress fracture is a minute (micro-fracture) that occurs in a bone due to repetitive impact or of a pounding nature to that particular area or bone, such as a runner would encounter. These stress fractures most often affect the leg, ankle and foot. Bones usually affected in the lower extremity are the tibia and fibula. In the foot, the most common are the 2nd, 3rd and 4th metatarsal. Other bones of the foot affected are the calcaneous, navicular, and cuboid.

Usually the pain will start as a vague ache that will become a localized pain. The pain usually worsens when stretching the foot or applying a pressure over the metatarsal area (ball of the foot). Other movements of the foot will not cause pain. Any pain in the foot, whatever the causative factor, may in all probability have an impact on the biomechanical integrity of the foot. This will in turn set up a mechanism of instability that will affect the ankle and leg. This instability in turn will often cause related symptoms, such as, leg, back and spinal pain.

Biomechanical factors are often created in individuals who are involved in activities such as running as previously stated, and sports that are of high impact to the feet such as aerobics, basketball, football and long distance power walking. These are the types of activities that are instrumental in causing stress fractures, and generally are the precursor of future problems in the feet.

In treating any foot condition, the individual should have a definite diagnosis. To accomplish this they should see their Chiropractor or Podiatrist for an examination and evaluation. This evaluation will consist of a case history, an examination that will include orthopedic tests and probably x-rays of the feet. Although the pain may affect one foot, x-rays may be taken of both feet for comparison purposes. Once a definitive diagnosis is arrived at, the condition will be treated to alleviate the pain and recommendations made to prevent a return of symptoms.

Treating any such foot problems will have the responsibility of the patient in the long run. They must of course follow the recommendations made by their healthcare provider, after-which they should take an active role in achieving the desired goal of being pain-free, and remaining so in the future. In a condition such as Morton's neuroma, the goal is to treat with conservative measures. However, in many instances, surgical intervention may be necessary.

The individuals' primary objective is to see to their shoes. They must see that the fit of their shoes will not cause further problems. The shoes of course must be of good quality with a proper ergonomically designed fit. The quality is of the utmost importance so as to prevent premature breakdown. A breakdown of the insole will cause the feet to pronounce, either inwardly or outwardly. There is a simple check that you can perform to check how your shoes fit in a proper fashion. While standing on a sheet of paper, have someone trace an outline of your feet. Then place your shoes over this drawn outline and trace the outline of your shoes. If the foot outline is not well within the shoe outline will signify a cramping of the feet by the shoes.

Cramping of the feet, caused by shoes that are to small give rise to other conditions. One such condition is Bunions (hallus valgus). The bunion is caused when the toes are squeezed together over a long period of time. There callus formation and overgrowth of bone in the joint of where the big toe and the metatarsal joint meet. In some women there can be a genetic disposition to bunions.

Hammer Toes is another condition that can directly be attributed to poorly fitted shoes. The 5th toe is the toe that is most often affected. When the toes are cramped in the shoe, the toes have a tendency to turn under because there is not room enough for them to stay in a normal extended fashion, when standing or walking. The rubbing action will cause calluses, and here too, the bone will start to overgrow causing a hammer toe.

A great percentage of women have been found to be wearing shoes that are too small for their feet, and it is in this percentile that women have complaints of foot pain. High heels are another significant cause of foot pain in women by placing increased pressure on the metatarsal area of ​​the feet. When there is a high arch in the feet, a supplement arch support will probably be of value to prevent strain of the arch. The shoe must allow the toes to spread and not cause a cramping of the toes, especially when stepping off in walking.

Basically a man should be aware of the same requirements for a proper fit as stated above. T he shoe should always be fitted for comfort and not for the size you think you wear. When fitting a shoe, late afternoon is the best time because your feet may be slightly larger. T hey should also be fitted in a standing position to make sure that the weight bearing is accommodated in the size of the shoe. Some individuals will find that an orthotic support will be of value. However, you must be certain that the orthotic will fit in the shoe properly without undue cramping of the feet. For the individual who is in pain, they of course must try to alleviate the pain. Warm foot soaks with Epsom salts in warm water can be very soothing. Follow the soak by massaging with a good analgesic balm. Use the foot soak and massage, 3 to 4 times daily as needed. There is also another type of shoe insert that may be of value. A magnetic insole will aid in circulation to the feet through its' magnetic therapy,

To sum up, the individual must take control to ease their pain and to further prevent the return of the condition that is causing the pain. Making sure that they are wearing properly fitted shoes will prevent the return of the initial causative condition and can also prevent other conditions from arising. Easing the pain that is initially present, by self-care is a

Priority. Following the procedures as outlined above will make for a happier and healthier lifestyle.

Blue Card Vs White Card For Construction Workers

The Blue Card has now been replaced by the White Card, but persons holding the Blue Card will not need to replace it and will still be able to work in the building trade across Australia. Once the course has been successfully completed an individual will receive the Workplace Health and Safety induction card. This enables the employee to check that the construction worker knows how to carry work out to a safe and efficient standard.

To ensure workers are working safely in the construction industry the White Card was brought out as a mandatory requirement by law for all individuals wanting to work in the construction industry. It permits individuals to do the course to gain basic skills and knowledge ensuring that they are safe from any dangers on the construction site. The course makes sure that risk management is a priority and that relevant workplace health and safety obligations and requirements are being followed. Individuals who have completed the White Card course in Queensland can work in Victoria, South Australia, Western Australia and NSW.

Construction types of work involves erecting, building, extending, altering structurally, converting, fitting out, renovating, repairing, refurbishing, commissioning, disassembling or decommissioning a building or part of a building. Any kind of work in connection to site preparation. Any landscaping work carried out connected with building work, taking apart a structure or part of a structure.

The White Card permits individuals to carry out building work as well as to enter building sites. The worker will be able to identify OHS legislative requirements, identify building dangers and exercise control measures, identify OHS communication and reporting procedures and identify OHS incident response procedures. The course covers many learning areas and once an individual has completed the course they should have a good knowledge and understanding of following safe working standards.

Once work has completed on the building site the worker will know how to follow statutory and common law practices. They should also keep up to date with all legal requirements in the building profession. They will have a duty of care to themselves and also other workers on the construction site. They will be aware of all safe working procedures and know how to work safely.

The employee will be able to control hazards and risks therefore promoting a safe working environment. They will be aware of common construction dangers and how to control risks. Other areas they will be skilled in include induction, reporting accidents and roles and obligations of specific personnel. The worker will be able to cope with emergencies and evacuation procedures should they occur.

There is a lot of other areas of learning that the course focuses on and a lot of the course requires common sense. There are many courses available on the internet to do from the comfort of your own home. Firstly you will need to answer a short answer test and send identification to be assessed. There are even same day tests that can be sent back the same working day. Each course will require an identification check which costs a small amount of money.

It typically takes three to six hours to complete the course, but if you need then you can take longer. It is always worth studying basic skills first. Reading about recent legislation within the building trade will all help.

How Much Does it Cost to Build a Truck Wash?

Many folks want to build a truck wash and then start making a business plan. They go look at a truck wash and then think to themselves, well I can build something like that cheap enough. Get a steal building, put down some concrete, buy some equipment and suddenly I am in business right? Sure, in theory.

How Much Does it Cost to Build a Truck Wash? Well, down and dirty somewhere between $225K to $400K not including property. I have seen them done cheaper, but generally by the time it is completed it comes out to a heck of a lot more. And once you build a truck wash you want to be sure it makes money to pay off all those loans and the ROI on the property too. But what about the cost of the truck washing services? Well consider about $28.50 to $35.00 average ticket. Now most truck washes get a good $45 to $ 55 for a tractor trailer rig, but due to some local fleet deals, some bobtails and full price combos the average is generally lower. As the Founder of the Truck Wash Guys often new entrants into the market will ask me questions about the industry for instance this recent question;

“The truck wash model appears very compelling. Do you have any rules of thumb as to what I should expect to pay to build one, what ticket average I might look for, and how much I can expect to drop to the bottom line?”

The answer is that these costs vary by region and it is not such a simple answer. Although I do hope you learned a little bit from today’s discussions? I certainly hope this article is of interest and that is has propelled thought. The goal is simple; to help you in your quest to be the best in 2007. I thank you for reading my many articles on diverse subjects, which interest you.

Learn Ninjutsu – 3 Substitutes For the Ninja’s Metsubishi "Blinding Powder"

For the student who wants to learn ninjutsu – the art and practice of Japan’s shadow warriors – there can be a lot of confusion, and even legal concerns, when it comes to mastering some of the Ninja’s more traditional weapons. However, with the right teacher to guide you through the process of mastering this powerful martial art, you should have no problem in bringing these proven and time-tested techniques, tactics, and strategies into the 21st century.

One of the Ninja’s weapons is known as metsubishi (also pronounced: “metsubushi”). This is conventionally known as “blinding powder” – the stuff that makes the “smoke screen” effect.

On a more advanced level, metsubishi is actually a category of techniques known as “sight removers.” And, while the “blinding powder” with the same name serves this purpose, there is more to this powerful weapon and strategy than meets the eye (so to speak).

This article offers several substitutes for the Ninja’s blinding powder. Instead of carrying around a packet or container of this highly irritating substance, there are some very common, everyday items that can be pressed into use in your defense that will accomplish the same job. They include.

  • 1) Loose change.
  • Remember, the ninja of ancient Japan did not have the same items or technology that we have today. So, reaching into a pants pocket and pulling out a handful of loose coinage, would have been impossible for a Ninja warrior who was wearing a kimono or some other form of classical dress that, either way, lacked both pockets and money as we know it today.

    Throwing a handful of coins at your attackers face may not create a Ninja-movie smoke screen, but the weight and impact of the coins will certainly give him something to worry about while you are either countering or making your escape!

  • 2) Grass or gravel.
  • Combined with the Ninja’s taihenjutsu (“body-changing art”), metsubishi can take many more forms than simply items that you can carry on you. Imagine your opponent’s surprise when he suddenly feels a wad of grass blades or the stinging of gravel hitting his skin – things that you picked up during that roll you used to avoid his previous advances!

  • 3) Sugar, salt or pepper.
  • Rather than egg shells filled with a specially mixed powder, the modern ninja has small packet of salt, sugar, and pepper available to him. In a restaurant or other similar situation, you could secretly grab a few of these readily available packets. And while the attacker is moving in or wasting time with threats, you could be subtly tearing open the packets and readying them for when he initiates his attack.

Remember – Just because our Ninja ancestors used a powder made of ashes, sand, and other irritants, doesn’t mean that we have to limit ourselves to the same thing. The power inherent within the martial art of Ninjutsu, is it’s focus on concepts and principles – not on set techniques.

This allows you, the modern ninja warrior, to adapt to any situation and have just the right technique that best fits the attack. As a teacher once told me, “flexibility is the key to longevity.” He wasn’t a Ninja teacher. But he certainly summed up the philosophy of the Ninja’s art!

Body Building – Is Your Workout Routine Hurting Your Health?

It is common for people to think that they will become buff immediately when they build their muscles. Well, unfortunately it's just not that easy. Working out requires a great deal of patience and determination.

The unfortunate thing is that those same people are willing to risk their health to become fit. They will spend huge amounts of money to dissolve the extra fat they have on their body miraculously in just days. Why will not they just learn how to work on their muscles instead of doing a risky step like that?

Bulking up is fairly easy. And starting that task is effortless. All you need to do is to begin with regular exercises, like jogging around a park and running on the treadmill.

After getting used to those exercises, begin with basic workouts. You can do crunches, dips, lunges, pull-ups, and push-ups. You have no excuse to do that since you can do it at home anytime you want.

The next step when learning body building is to be consistent. This is where many people fail. And unfortunately, body building will be impossible for you once you fail on this part.

However, if you could get past that step, it is now the time for you to get serious. You can buy body building DVDs, and watch them. You must do that to learn how to workout more effectively and how you can burn the evil fat within you further.

On the other hand, you can visit the nearest gym in your neighborhood. After that, you must register as a member. Then, look for an instructor who will guide you on how to advance your workout.

Subsequently, you must research about dietary supplements you can consume to make your muscles grow faster. But before you do that, you must visit your doctor or dietician first. Ask them if the dietary supplements that you will consume may initiate allergic reactions in your body.

As a bonus, you could try to enroll in self-defense classes. Self-defense classes can provide your body more flexibility, stamina, and strength. And of course, you will know how to defend yourself, and how to use your strength to your advantage when dealing with people who may try to harm you.

That is how simple body building can be. As long as you have the patience and determination, you can rest assured that learning how to do body building your muscles will benefit you a lot. So as early as now, start giving your body the exercise it needs.

I've prepared some powerful body building and fitness secrets for you below, enjoy!

Choosing Porch Railings – What's In Style

For a front porch, deck, balcony, or gazebo the porch railing has long been considered a must have. Important for many architectural designs, these railings add additional beauty to your home, as well as provide a measure of safety and convenience. Over the years, a variety of materials have been used for the railings. Here are some of the current materials being used to make porch railroads.

Wood railing has been around a long time. The Victorian styles of turn of the century homes used these types of elaborate wooden rails. There is no doubt that a wood porch railing adds something special to any home's appearance. Wood railing does require maintenance, either painting or varnishing over time, so that is something to consider when making your purchase. Many different types of wood are used in making wood railings, which offers a lot of choices to the homeowner. Wood does offer some designs that have not been able to be fully replicated in other materials, and does cost more over the long term.

Becoming very popular in use for porch railroads is the vinyl railing. With the designs of the traditional wood railings now becoming available in vinyl, such as different accent patterns like rose scroll or victorian scroll, many homeowners are opting for the vinyl railroads. Vinyl does not require the maintenance of the wood railings and is much easier to install, thereby costing less than wood. Many people prefer the use of vinyl because there are not splinters, nails, or sharp edges. This can be a plus if you have young children. Vinyl railing is also the choice of the do-it-yourself types, and can be purchased as a kit or in individual pieces either from your local home improvement store or an online speciality store.

Another option in porch railings is to choose a material which is a composite. The base material is made out of a wood composite that is encased in polymer. This gives the porch railing the look of wood, combined with the durability and ease of maintenance as the vinyl railroads. Some of the available designs are more detailed and the price is a bit more as well.

Organic Gardening – Double Digging Your Garden Beds to Improve the Soil's Structure

There are great rewards to be had by double digging your garden beds. It is a very labor intensive method of improving the gardens soil structure. It involves the improvement of the first 2 feet of the gardens soil.

Double digging is hard work and is not for everyone. If you have health conditions that restrict you to heavy work or back problems I would recommend staying away from this method of gardening.

When double digging it is best to start out small and just work an area that you can handle. It is going to take time so do not try to take on to much because you will only get disgusted and most likely give up on finishing it. I do not want to make this sound like I do not want to make it sound like I am trying to talk you out if if this method to your garden because the benefits that you will get in return will be great. Just take your time.

Several days before you start this project you should mark out the area you want your garden and soak the area with water. Once you have fished that step wait a few days and remove any sod or weeds that are in that area and loosen the first foot of soil with a spade.

The next day you plan on working on your bed you can start by digging and removing a one to two foot wide area of ​​topsoil the width or the length of the garden area, depending on where you are starting. Take this topsoil and stockpile it at the opposite end of the garden from where you are starting. Depending on the size or distance you have to move it a garden cart or wheel barrow may be needed. This stockpile area is where you will end the garden. Pile it on the yard off the garden area on a garden cloth, boards or something that you can easily clean it up from at the end.

Once the topsoil is removed you will need to start loosing the subsoil layer of dirt below where the topsoil was. You can do this by taking a spade and sticking it deep into the soil, twisting or wiggling it until you breakup all the clumps of soil, do this the length or width of where you are working.

Next you will need to spread about a layer of organic matter over the loosened area of ​​subsoil. Once you finish that step it is time to start working the next 1 or 2 foot area that is next to the area you just finished. Simply take the topsoil off the new area and place it on top of the organic matter that you just put in. Continue these steps until you have reached the farthest end of your garden and replace the topsoil that you have stockpiled into the last trench.

Once all the topsoil is all back in place in your garden you need to spread a layer of compost or organic matter over the entire surface of the garden and work it into the top 4 to 6 inches of topsoil.

Now your garden is ready to plant. Remember, only work small areas of a garden that you plan on double digging at one time. The benefits will be great for both you and your plants.