Why They Avert Learning?

The success of any organization depends on the attitude of organizational members toward the process of learning and how they operationally define it. Mostly top management of any organization argues that, they know how to learn but actually they don’t know at all. They believe that learning is the process of correction of errors but ignores the problem inwardly. They think learning is a one way process and spend their lives in this dilemma. According to the experts, learning occurs in two ways. One is single loop learning (e.g. Air conditioner tripped on specific room temperature) and the second is double loop learning (if air conditioner asked why I am fixed at specific temperature and explore about other options).

Professionals are good at single loop learning but not at double loop learning. Because they rarely face unfavorable situations in their lives and when they face undesired situations, they become defensive instead of being realistic. They start blaming on others as the reason of problem. Blaming on others blocks their own learning process. Companies should learn how to break the barriers among their members and make them double loop learners. They should make them able to do reasoning of their own behaviors. There was a famous consulting organization which provided services to different companies. According to the feedback from the clients, they were very much satisfied with the performance of consulting services but the CEO of that consulting organization was not satisfied with the performance of his own staff. He was worried about the performance of the employees and think that the employees are not meeting with standards. He decided to get help from the external consultant to uncover the problems facing by the employees.

During the initial meetings, members were not comfortable to share the problems but after the series of meetings with external consultant they opened up and raised some points. They said that the clients were non-serious and CEO was distant during the process. We were under pressure by our CEO to end the project on time which affected their performance. At time the members were asked to give the evidence of problems they have been discussed, their responses being changed. Instead of being realistic, they presented the problem in such way which stopped learning. Finally, they ended-up unclear conversation. According to the theory of actions; espoused theory will be different from the theory-in-use because people want to maximize the winning and avoid embarrassment.

I am agreeing with the idea of single loop and double loop learning. Most of the times people are committed to change and they want too but they locked-up their selves in defensive reasoning and even they are unaware of the defensive boundary they made around them. Companies can help employees to break their membrane of defensive reasoning by showing the gap between actual and espoused theory of actions and encourage open conversations among the members to make the place of continue improvement. It will help them to understand the deeper aspects of employee-client relationship and also they will learn the process of learning by real discussions. Acceptance should be encouraged instead of blaming each other for any problem. Proper training of the employees can transform organizations into a better place for work.

Muscle Car Restoration – The Tools You Need

The truth is that there are a lot of tools that will be needed during a car restoration. In this article I will not be talking about how to set up a shop, but rather the tools that you need to restore your car at home. We all know that this is a big job, so get ready to get down and dirty.

The very first suggestion that I will make, is that you absolutely must have a garage to do the work in. It doesn’t need to be a huge outrageous garage, just a place where you can leave your car for a while that will keep it out of the weather, this will not be a fast process.

The garage that you work from also needs to have power, this is also a must. You can’t possibly do all of the work with hand tools. There are a few tools that I will suggest that you could live without if you have to, but most of them will be a must.

It would also be a nice idea to have heat in your garage, this will make it more comfortable to do your work. Below I will add a list of the tools you will need to restore your classic car. This list may not cover all of the tools, but it will cover most of the ones that are a must.

Let me also give a warning here, it you are one of those people who think that everything has to have a time limit, and that time limit must push you to move the job along quickly, this my not be that much fun for you, it will take a lot of time.

List Of The Tools That You Need To Do A Car Restoration

1. This is a must have, you will need an air compressor that can handle the work load that you will through at it.

2. You will need a full set of wrenches, both metrics and SAE.

3. You will need a ratchet, and a full set of sockets.

4. You will need a full set of screwdrivers.

5. You will need a 5″ air grinder.

6. You will need a 1/2″ and a 3/8″ breaker bar, and sockets to use with them.

7. You will need a full set of pry bars.

8. You will need air lines to connect your tools to the air.

9. Optional it is always nice to have a drop light when you need it.

10. You will need paint guns to spray the primer with, I do not suggest low dollar spray gun, get about a mid range brand name gun.

11. You will need air files for shaping the body filler that you will be using.

12. You will also need long hand file boards, the shaping is always better when it’s done by hand.

13. You will need body hammers and dollies to take out dents with.

14. Optional you should have a uni-spotter nail welder to pull dents also, a good brand to look at is stinger.

15. You will need a die grinder, this is an absolute must if you have rust, or dents that require you to cut out the area to fix the problem.

16. You will need a mig welder, this is another piece of equipment that is not an option, it is a must. Do not by a no name welder either.

This may not be all of the tools that you will need, but it should get you well on your way to getting the job done in an efficient manor. You should not have to look for tools every time you turn around if you have these basic tools.

The other thing that I always harp on is safety, you should always do you work with another friend around so in case something happens during the process and you need help. The key idea here is to have fun, and do the job in a safe manor.

Car Restoration

Muscle Cars

Indian Music – The Culture and Tradition

India is known for its diverse culture and heritage. Music has always occupied a significant position in the Indian culture. The oldest Hindu scripture: Vedas also mentions about music. Samadeva, one of the four vedas describes music at length.

The basis of Indian music is “sangeet”. Sangeet is a combination of three different are forms, namely: vocal, instrumental and dance. Raag and Taal form the two most important pillar of Indian music. “Raag comprises of the melodic part of Indian Music while Taal forms the rhythmic aspect.

Indian classical is monophonic in nature and is usually based around a single melody line. The two main forms of music prevalent in India are:

Hindustani Classical, originally from North India: This form of Indian Classical originated from the Vedic Chants and are popular in northern part of India, including various neighboring countries, like Bangladesh, Pakistan, Nepal etc. The types of compositions that are included in this genre are:

  • Drupad
  • Khayal
  • Tarana
  • Tappa
  • Thumri
  • Ghazal

Carnatic, originally from South India: This form of Indian music is famous in the southern part of the subcontinent that covers fours states: Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu and Kerala. The types of compositions that are included in this genre are:

  • Varnam
  • Kriti

Some of the instruments associated with Indian music are: tanpura, tabla, sitar, sarod, harmonium, pakhawaj, bansuri, shehanai, violin etc. Some of the eminent singers of Indian Classical music are: Tansen, Ustad Bade Ghulam Ali Khan, Pandit Bhimsen Joshi, D.V. Paluskar, G.N. Balasubramanium, Abdul Karim Khan, Faiyaz Khan etc.

International Business – Can Americans Cope

The world may be flat and international companies may believe that they know all there is to know about business overseas. Nonetheless, the recent “lead paint” problems with China would suggest otherwise. Mattel may be saying “sorry” to the Chinese, but the real question is “where was the on-site management in the first place?” Most likely enjoying their “perks” instead of minding the store.

Establishing an international operation or assigning personnel to an existing one requires planning and development that is generally overlooked. Having spent the past 25 years watching American companies fumble overseas, I’ve been fascinated with the trials and tribulations of expatriate living. International assignments require both savvy business acumen coupled with the knowledge and understanding necessary to live and function successfully in a foreign environment. A compensation system based on performance rather than greed might also be useful.

There are several reasons for this:

1. American companies continue to think of themselves as American, not multinational, thus assignments overseas are not viewed in a strategic totality, but rather as a nuisance that must be dealt with from time to time.

2. The majority of the literature on the subject appears in personnel and/or training development magazines, thus the key decision makers in a company are not exposed to the problem on a regular basis.

3. The cost of establishing an in house development program is a visible budget item and considered high, relative to the numbers transferred each year. Thus picking consultants (one from column A, one from column B) to present a less than integrated approach is seen as a quick and cheap fix.

4. Then there is the attitude displayed by company and individual alike that” no one tells me how to act overseas, I’m an American, I’m great, I know all there is to know, they need me and if they don’t like it they can lump it.”

5. Lastly, compensation programs not tied to performance but linked to in country costs and keeping up with the “Jones”, defeats any real incentive to produce.

Succeeding in the international marketplace is not as difficult as the statistics would make it appear. American companies need to look at expatriate assignments in terms of a strategic long term focus – not as an extended vacation.

How To Keep Your Artwork As Fresh As The Day It Was Created

Clueless about how to protect the beautiful acrylic painting you received as a birthday gift? Wondering how to mat and frame your new watercolor? Here’s a handy guide on how to care for your precious artwork, no matter what media it was created in.

. Handling

. Storage

. Transporting

. Matting

. Framing

. Laminating

. Display

. Cleaning

Special care for different types of media

. Acrylics

. Oils

. Watercolors

. Pastels

. Charcoal, Pencil, Colored pencil, Crayon drawings

. Ink drawings

. Digital art


Always use great care in handling artwork. Never touch the surface of the art with your bare fingers as the natural oils, acids and salts on your skin can transfer to the artwork and cause permanent damage. If you must touch the art, wear cotton gloves.


Artwork not displayed should be stored in a clean, dry, dark and well-ventilated area in moderate temperatures and humidity levels that do not fluctuate a great deal. Avoid storage in basements, attics or garages as extreme temperatures and moisture can damage the artwork.

Store unframed art flat with acid-free paper between each item, or store individual items in archival-quality envelopes.

Avoid storing art between cardboard, as it is highly acidic and can damage artwork over time.

Store art created with charcoal, pastels, pencil or crayon between glass to avoid rubbing and damaging the delicate artwork. Preferably mat the item first with an acid-free mat and then cover it with glass to protect the artwork from any kind of contact with its surface.

Never store unframed art in shipping tubes for any length of time. Remove the art as soon as possible and lay it flat until you are ready to frame it. If a painting has been stored in a tube for a long time, consult a professional who will use the utmost care and expertise in unrolling and relaxing the artwork to avoid possible cracking and damage.

Never store framed art directly on the floor. Instead, rest the artwork on blocks or on shelves.


Never leave artwork in your car for extended periods of time. Carry framed artwork by the sides and avoid resting canvas against any items that may damage the surface.

Roll prints carefully and insert into heavy duty shipping tubes. Remove the artwork and unroll as soon as possible after transport to avoid permanent damage.


Have your artwork matted with an acid-free mat board. Poor quality mats may damage art over time due to the chemicals in the board that can transfer to the artwork. The same is true for backing your art with cardboard which also has chemicals that may cause discoloration.

Never use rubber cement or white glue to adhere the art to a surface as it can cause damage to your precious artwork.


Art created with ink, pencil, pastels or charcoal should be framed under glass. You may use Plexiglas only for pencil or ink drawings as any pastel or charcoal artwork may be damaged by the build-up of electrostatic charge emitted from Plexiglas and similar plastics.

Make sure to completely seal the back seams of the frame and backing with acid-free tape.

To further protect your print from harmful UV rays you can ask your framer to use glare-free glass with a UV protective coating to cover the artwork in the frame.

The frame you choose should be slightly larger than your artwork. Humidity may cause the paper to contract or expand and the extra space between the frame and artwork will allow for these changes without damaging the art.

Never frame artwork without also using a mat board between the art and frame. Wood may hold humidity that can transfer to the artwork. You can use acid-free frame spacing instead of matting, if you prefer. Ask your art store to see what is available.

Also, if you have a glass insert to protect the artwork, make sure you add a mat to prevent the art from sticking to the glass over time.


Since nearly all laminating materials have UV inhibitors in them it makes sense to consider this option for protecting your prints, photos and digital art as well as other artwork such as delicate pastels and charcoals.

Consult a photo store to ensure that this process will not damage the artwork you’re thinking of laminating.

Either bring your print or photo to a photo shop to have it professionally laminated to a base, or use a laminating machine if you would rather use a frame.

A laminating machine that uses a heat process will protect the print more than a machine using cold lamination. Be careful of low-end laminators with fluctuating temperatures that can result in bubbles between the print and the plastic, incomplete lamination or variations in thickness of the plastic.

As an added protection, laminating pouches are also available with UV-resistance to protect against color-fade.

If you use low quality photo paper for your digital prints, make sure to test a sample print in your laminator as smearing of the photo may result.


Careful planning of where you’ll hang your artwork should lengthen its lifespan considerably.

Humidity, extreme fluctuating temperatures, direct sunlight, bright light, heating vents and fireplaces can damage your previous art. Avoid contact with fluorescent lighting that emits harmful high-energy rays that can deteriorate the artwork.

Hanging art on exterior walls may subject the art to temperature fluctuations and dampness in climates where temperatures vary greatly with the seasons. Avoid hanging artwork in kitchens or bathrooms for this same reason.

Attach small cork pieces to the back of the frame to prevent mold from forming, by allowing air to circulate behind your framed art.

Never use clip-on lights on frames. The area of artwork exposed to this “hot spot” will cause drying and damage over time.

Canvas stretcher bars may expand and contract with temperature fluctuations. This may make the canvas sag and/or crack the paint. A professional can correct this problem and save the artwork.


Dust frames regularly and inspect for signs of mold or insects. Make sure that all hangers and items used to secure the frame are still in good condition.

Never use commercial products to clean your bare artwork. Use a feather duster to dislodge dust particles from the surface. Cloth material may leave lint.

To clean the picture glass that protects your artwork, never spray cleaner directly onto the glass. Instead, spray your cleaning cloth and then wipe the glass to avoid cleaner from running gown and seeping between the glass and frame and damaging the art. Avoid using a cleaner with ammonia.

Use a cleaner specifically designed for Plexiglas or similar materials such as acrylic, or use a soft damp cloth and spot clean gently to avoid scratching.

A professional may be needed to clean your artwork if you notice color changes and dullness from contact with smoke, whether it was from cigarettes, heavy use of candles, or if the artwork was subject to smoke damage from a fire. See your professional if you notice any signs of mold or insects.

Special Care for different types of media

Acrylic Paintings

Not to be framed under glass, acrylics are fairly sturdy and can survive in various lighting conditions. Dusting the surface lightly will prevent any build-up. Be careful when shipping acrylics in the winter as extremely cold temperatures may cause cracking. You’ll have the same problem when storing your acrylics in unheated attics, basements or sheds if you live in areas that experience very cold winters.

Oil Paintings

Also not for framing under glass as these have to “breath”. Direct sunlight will fade oils over time. Choose its location with this in mind.

Make sure to dust frequently as build up may crack and peel the paint. Never spray commercial cleaners on your painting. Should the colors appear dull after awhile, you can have your painting varnished at your art store to renew the colors and protect the surface from possible cracking.

Transport your painting carefully wrapped in cardboard and protected with bubble wrap. Avoid leaving the artwork too long in the packaging as moisture may form and damage your painting.


Frame watercolors behind glass. Colors may fade if fragile watercolors are exposed to strong lighting conditions.

Oil Pastels and Chalk Pastels

Pastels are very delicate and must be handled with extreme care. Framing under glass as soon as possible is a necessity to protect the easily damaged surface. Full sun can fade the colors but they can survive strong light or indirect sunlight. Never touch the surface of the art or place anything on its surface to avoid smearing.

Charcoal, pencil, colored pencil, crayon drawings

These are just as fragile as pastels; therefore they must be handled and protected in the same manner. Do not touch the delicate surface of these drawings.

Ink Drawings

Also very light sensitive, fades quickly in direct sunlight. Frame under UV-protected glass.

Digital Art

Avoid touching the surface of your digital art. Mount your artwork behind UV-protected glass to reduce fading. Make sure that the artwork is dry before doing this. An acid free mat inserted between the artwork and frame will prevent the art from sticking to the glass. Aluminum frames should be considered as humidity does not affect them and will not transfer to your prints. Make sure to keep your digital prints away from excessive heat for long periods of time, high humidity, direct sunlight and extreme temperature fluctuations.

Taking extra care of your precious artwork today will ensure many years of enjoyment later on.

Flea Infestation? These Low-Cost Strategies Work!

If your pet has fleas, chances are your house does too. You can get rid of them without resorting to pricey commercial treatments and toxic substances. The trick is to understand a flea’s life cycle and attack every stage of the reproductive process. Here’s how to do it.

1. Of course you have to get the fleas off your pet, and you’ll have to do it daily until the infestation is over (which will take a week to 10 days with these methods). Buy a fine-toothed flea comb. Then put some water into a plastic tub or large bowl. Add a tiny squirt of liquid soap (such as dish cleaner or laundry detergent) to break the surface tension.

Sit down with your pet and use the comb to find the fleas. Shake them into the water, where they’ll sink to the bottom and drown. (If you don’t use that little bit of soap, the fleas will bounce right off.)

2. Now you have to get rid of the larvae (worm-like early stages of a flea’s short life). Take a dustpan and broom into any room that has a non-carpeted floor. Optional: Take a flashlight with you. Carefully sweep all along the walls and corners. This is where fleas gravitate right after they hatch. You can see the wiggling larvae after you’ve swept them up if the light is good.

Empty your dustpan into a sturdy bag and take it outside immediately to discard it in a covered trash container. Repeat daily.

3. Carpets are a flea’s best friend. This is where most eggs are laid and most larvae spend the early part of their lives. Use a two-part approach for getting the fleas out of your carpets.

First, use washing soda to interrupt the early stages of the fleas’ life cycle. Buy a box of washing soda (you’ll find it in the laundry section of your grocery store) and toss handfuls of the powder all over your carpets. Then use a broom to spread the washing soda and work it into the carpet. Commercial carpet-treatment companies use a machine to do this, but a broom works just fine.

If you don’t like the appearance of the white dust on the surface of your carpet, use your vacuum cleaner to get rid of it. Most of the washing soda will remain in the carpet to do its work.

Fleas need moisture to live (that’s why they gravitate toward a pet’s head and tail). The washing soda absorbs moisture and dries out the eggs and larvae.

Second, make a flea trap to catch the adult fleas already living in your carpet. Put some water and a small squirt of liquid soap into a low bowl or other container. (The black plastic trays that come with frozen entrees are ideal.) Place the bowl on the carpet and put a small light over it–a desk lamp, for example. Turn off the other lights and go to bed.

In the morning the container will have 20 or 30 dead fleas in it. They’re attracted to the light, dive into the water, and can’t get out because the soap breaks the surface tension. Repeat for 7 to 10 days, until all fleas are gone.

These methods work, and they won’t bust your budget. Try them today!

Indian Carpet Industry and Its SWOT Analysis

Carpet Industry is one among the industries prevailing in India since centuries. Indian Carpet Industry has always been a crucial part of Indian export industry. Moguls brought and introduced carpet weaving in India which survived and flourished greatly. Over the period, ancient weavers has transformed into modern artist who imbibe the magical colours to the Indian carpets. These artists bring aesthetic touch to the carpets by doing magic with colours and provide carpets an unusual beauty and elegance. The study revealed that the total carpet exported last year was worth Rs 2600 crores whereas the size of the domestic market was condensed to about Rs 200 crores. Carpet holds a grace and recognition from over centuries. Earlier, only a few centers in India were involved in carpet weaving but slowly, various clusters have risen in northern part of India for the same purpose. Each center has its own competitive advantage. These centers employ nearly millions of people all across the country. Mojor belts of carpets include Bhadohi, Mirzapur and Agra belt in Uttar Pradesh, Jaipur, Bikaner in Rajasthan, Panipat belt in Haryana and Kashmir belt.

Carpets are broadly classified into two categories, traditional and modern. Otherwise, Indian manufacturers make carpets in various types, these are;

o Chainstich Rugs

o Tufted Woolen Carpets

o Hand-knotted Woolen Carpets

o GABBE Woolen Carpets

o Pure Silk Carpets

o Handmade Woolen Dhurries

o Staple or Synthetic Carpets

Each type has its own individuality in terms of design, look and the wool used in its manufacturing. The variety in carpets caters to various needs of customers.

The distinct variety added to the carpets is inclusion of silk and cotton which are innovatively mixing with the wool to give an attractive look to the carpets. Silk carpets are considered high quality pieces and are comparatively high in price. Indian carpets are fundamentally following the old popular patterns such as floral, rhomboids, animal patterns and arabesques in its designs. These traditional Oriental styles are preferred even today. However, Indian carpet industry seems to be highly influenced by western patterns and designs which are giving a competitive edge to Indian traditional carpets, such as Chinese patterns and Persian designs.

Swot Analysis of Carpet Industry

Indian Carpet Industry is a unique industry which is highly unorganized but lacks proper channels. Somehow, it has managed to perform impressively in the past years. The industry has made significant contribution in Indian exports till 1990s. What was there behind the industry that drives the export? SWOT analysis brings forth the value drivers and tentative blocks this industry has experienced and experiencing even today;

Strengths- Over the years, carpet industry has flourished in India due to availability of artistic skills, cheap labour and low cost raw material, innovations in selling carpets and flexibility in manufacturing all kinds of carpets.

Weaknesses- The industry’s greatest weakness is its highly being unorganized. The carpet exporters and manufacturers lack marketing channels. Indian suppliers suffer due to poor infrastructure and internal competition, and lack professional approach and Intellectual Property Rights.

Opportunities- Home furnishing market is moving towards Carpet industry, which results in evolution of new carpet designs. It is used as a marketing tool, and gives opportunity to provide stocking and warehousing services to various players in the market.

Threats- Industry is suffering a lot due to unhealthy competition exiting within it. If not handled properly, current rebound in the industry may not be sustainable. Social evil such as Child labor has strong bonding with the industry. Hence, the industry invites risk of possible backlash on itself.

Carpet Industry in India has experienced a major change in recent years. The industry is moving towards the emergence of new market and old existing market is saturated and lost its identity. Low-end carpets manufactured in modern designs like hand-tufted carpets are highly preferred by new customer base. Chinese industry is emerging as the biggest threat to Indian carpet industry, in terms of pricing and volumes. However, innovative products range with lower volume could be a success mantra for Indian Carpet Industry. Inefficient coordination and ill management are what exist predominantly in the industry. Apart from it, industry needs to consolidate on the activities such as quality standards, cost reduction, better development of products and their on-time delivery to drive its growth.

Carpet Repair – A Do it Yourself Guide to Maintaining and Fixing Your Carpet

Carpet Repair does not have to evoke feelings of panic and visions of big money. Depending on what exactly is wrong with your carpet and how it happened chances are you can fix your own carpet. Nothing feels better than knowing you can take care of your home.

Some carpet repairs are minor and can almost be viewed as carpet maintenance. For example, carpet can appear fuzzy and develop a pill like surface after a period of time. An easy way to fix this is to simply cut the loose and fuzzy fibers from your carpet much like removing them from a sweater.

Small burn marks, such as those from cigarettes or cigarette ash can also be cut from your carpet if they are small enough. You can also remove stains by hand if you respond quickly enough. Water or better yet club soda poured onto a stain and then dabbed dry will lift most stains right out of your carpet. A small amount of soap (detergent or dish soap) on a stain can also remove it from your carpet. Once the stain is removed, allow the area to dry and then vacuum it well.

Furniture marks can also be removed from a carpet with club soda. Pour a small amount on the indentation and dab with a towel. Do this until you have removed most of the moisture. Let it air dry and then vacuum the area in a variety of directions. The end result will be a smooth carpet surface. All manner of shredding, uneven fibers, pills and tufts should be spot addressed with scissors. Because different parts of the carpet are used and worn differently, they have different maintenance needs. You never want to pull fibers from the carpet as this thins the carpet and loosens existing fibers. Trimming them removes the uneven look without damaging the rest of your carpet.

For high traffic areas, vigilance is a key piece of maintaining the look of your carpet. High use areas can get flattened and look darker. This is both due to dirt and the flattening of the fibers. Regular vacuuming against the wear of the carpet will help to keep the fibers upright and fluffy. Brushing the carpet against the wear will also help to keep the fibers fresh. Letting this go untreated will cause your carpet to wear unevenly.

If you have heavy water damage, a large industrial sort of stain or a large burn area you may need to replace all or a part of your carpet. This would be a time to hire a professional to decide what is best for your carpet. If you stay one step ahead of things, you can avoid this often costly process. If you are unsure about what to do, a quick call to your carpet dealer or a quick online search is your best bet. The professionals know what is best and will give you the advice you need!

Ayurvedic Home Remedies For Hemorrhoids

When the blood vessels in and around the anal region swell up due to various reasons, it results in hemorrhoids or piles. Nearly 35% of the humankind suffer from hemorrhoids. Unhealthy eating habits, lack of movement or exercise, prolonged standing or sitting can cause hemorrhoids. Females during pregnancy may experience this difficulty due to pressure on the blood vessels in the rectum because of the foetus. This usually gets back to normal on child birth.

Blood on surface of stool, or toilet paper is the primary symptom of hemorrhoids. Itching, pain and swelling in the anal region confirms it. Surprisingly in some cases there may not be noticeable symptoms at all.


Hemorrhoids can be broadly classified as internal and external hemorrhoids. Internal hemorrhoids are the swollen blood vessels inside the anal canal. External hemorrhoids protrude out from the anus, also called as prolapsed hemorrhoids. They are more painful than the internal ones.


Conventional systems treat hemorrhoids with stool softeners, creams, and in extreme cases surgery.


The primary cause for hemorrhoids is unhealthy eating habit. If you eat junk food more, if you don’t exercise, if the urge to defecate is suppressed often, then the possibility of a full blown hemorrhoids is very much a reality. Chronic constipation is the main cause of hemorrhoids.


Ways to prevent hemorrhoids


Eating more leafy vegetables and increasing the fiber in diet is the first step to prevent hemorrhoids. There will be regular bowel movement if the diet consists of fibers. Ureg to defecate should never be suppressed. Avoid prolonged sitting or standing.


Home Remedies for Hemorrhoids




Juice of sphaeranthus indicus (Kottaikarandhai) leaves 1 litre


Sittamanakku oil (Ricinus communis L.) 1 litre


Cumin seeds 250 gm


Cumin seeds are powdered coarsely. Add a few drops of milk and make a fine paste. Now pour the juice of sphaeranthus indicus and heat. When the mix reaches a thick consistency, remove from and heat and let it cool. Filter the oil and store in a bottle. 75 mil of this preparation is taken in the mornings for five days. This is found to cure hemorrhoids, stomach ulcers and diarrhea.


Given below are some more home remedies for piles.


1-2 buds and a twig or two of the banyan tree is ground to a fine paste. Add this paste to milk and take it once a day for three days.


Dice white onion and sauté it in ghee. Add palm candy and make a fine paste. Take this with food three times a day.


Yam is an excellent remedy for hemorrhoids. Regular consumption of dishes made of yam can cure as well as prevent hemorrhoids. Karunai lehyam made from yam is available at ayurveda and siddha shops. This is taken a spoonful after food three times a day. This is a time tested remedy for hemorrhoids.

How to Repair Costume Jewelry

Whether you buy costume jewelry for your own collection, for investment or for resale, it’s important to know when to repair a piece that has damage or missing stones, and when to walk away. Whether you intend to wear it, or plan to sell it “as is” will determine the wisdom of repairing it. If you plan to repair the piece and then sell it, be sure to factor in the cost of repairs to see if it’s worth fixing.

If you have a piece of costume jewelry that you’d like to wear, but has loose or missing stones, or has other condition issues, what are the best ways to repair it so you can safely enjoy wearing it?

I’ve found that some issues are easy to address, others require more time, patience and money, and still others benefit from the attention of a professional.

If you’d like to repair your jewelry yourself, there are a few things you should invest in. If you don’t already have a jeweler’s loupe, or strong magnifying glass, you should get one. I have two – one stays on my desk, and the other stays in my purse, so I always have one handy, whether I’m working at home or out shopping for jewelry. Another handy magnifier is one that straps on your head, leaving your hands free.

The most common problem I see in costume jewelry is with the stones – rhinestones, crystal, glass or plastic, they may come out of their settings, be loose, or crack or dull. Older pieces may be set with glue that has dried and let the stone fall out. It’s important to use the right kind of adhesive, and to not use too much. Krazy Glue or Super Glue is not recommended, as it may break down when attached to glass. Super Glue may be especially damaging to vintage pieces – a film may develop if it reacts to old metal and plating. If you get it on the surface of the stone, it’s difficult to remove. Never use hot glue – it can expand and contract with temperature changes and may crack the jewelry or loosen the stone. The best adhesive to use would be one designed specifically for jewelry, which can be found in craft stores and on jewelry supply web sites.

Be careful not to use too much glue when replacing stones. The glue will not dry properly, and the adhesive will flow out around the stone and onto the metal. I use a toothpick dipped in a little pool of glue to drop minute bits of glue into the setting, a drop at a time, using as little as possible.

Putting the stone back into the setting is a delicate process – you can wet the tip of your finger to make the stone stick and then carefully drop it into the setting.

Save your old broken jewelry, or any unmatched earrings for their stones. You might find broken pieces at flea markets, yard sales and antique shops. It’s hard to exactly match a missing stone, but if you build up a collection of orphan pieces, the right size and color just might be available. You can also access jewelry suppliers for stones. Keep in mind that whatever you purchase for repairs should be factored into the price if the piece is for resale.

One way to make old jewelry look new again is replating. Replating can be costly, and should only be done if you are keeping the piece for yourself to wear. Replating may diminish the value of vintage jewelry, just as refinishing antique furniture would decrease its value. An Internet search should provide the names of jewelry restorers in your area.

Now, what about that green stuff that you sometimes see on vintage jewelry? Some jewelry collectors simply pass on pieces that have green verdigris on them, as it can indicate corrosion that can’t be cleaned off. You can try to clean it with a cotton swab dipped in vinegar, but if the metal is heavily coated and degraded, you may need to gently chip the green away, taking care to not damage the metal beneath. Wipe the piece with a damp cloth and let it air dry completely. You can also try the same process with ammonia. Be careful to never immerse the piece of jewelry in liquid, as the stones may loosen or discolor due to water getting into the setting.

Costume jewelry is made to be worn and enjoyed. Replacing missing stones and cleaning the metal will give your vintage jewelry sparkle and glow and many more years of wear.

Chiropractic Marketing With a Giant Spine Parade and Event Costume

Chiropractic marketing should be unique and dynamic. A giant spine parade and event costume creates excitement and attracts attention for a Chiropractor in their community.

Publicity is important for any business. The giant parade spine will attract tremendous attention because of its size and uniqueness. When used properly, the giant spine will be the hit of the parade and result in priceless advertising value. People will talk about it for a long time.

“If your business is not worth being advertised, then advertise it for sale.” – BJ Palmer, developer of the chiropractic profession.

To make your own giant spine costume you will need special quality foam for each vertebra, extra-wide Velcro for each vertebra, and a specialized highly durable sprayable contact adhesive. Foam and Velcro are petroleum product so the price is high. Total estimated material cost per vertebra is $139.00 as of 08/2013 plus shipping of these supplies (approx $30.00) plus tax.

For tools you will need several razor blade knives, scissors, a pen, a yard stick, and a wooden, flat cutting surface that is at least 6 foot by 3 foot (an old wooden door works best).

The vertebrae are best created in a well ventilated area because of the fumes from the adhesive. Do not attempt it indoors. You will need a large open area to lay out the pieces for cutting and then drying after glue is applied.

It’s best to make just one type of vertebrae for ease of production. Also, the public does not know or care about the specifics of spinal anatomy.

Arrange a clear space in a well ventilated area with approximately 10 foot by 10 foot of working space. I placed my wooden cutting surface (an old door) on 2 construction horses to eliminate the bending over while working.

Start by laying the foam sheet flat, then trace the templates ( available below) of each piece as specified. Carefully cut the foam using a razor blade knife. The knife will dull quite easily and begin to tear the foam instead of cutting it, so watch for that and change blades/knives frequently. It’s best to take your time and get a smooth, straight cut. But don’t worry about imperfections because the spectators won’t notice, and no vertebra is perfectly symmetrical or similar either.

With the pieces cut (4 transverse pieces, 2 spinous pieces, 2 fastener pieces, and the body), cut the Velcro with a scissor for each appropriate piece and trace the Velcro’s outline on the foam so you’ll know where to apply the glue. Even if the Velcro has adhesive already on it, you will still need to apply the glue to both pieces (the Velcro and the foam). You must let the glue become tacky before joining the Velcro to the foam, and then allow to dry for at least 48 hours. Apply the glue at the narrow ends of both the transverse and spinous pieces last (each transverse and spinous piece is made of 2 foam pieces glued at the ends about 4 inches wide).

You will need 16 total pieces of Velcro for each vertebra: 6 pieces on the outside of vertebral body, 4 on the connecting tabs on the inside of the vertebral body, 2 pieces on the inside of the spinous, 2 pieces on the inside of the transverses (4 total), and 2 pieces on each fastener tab. Velcro is two part, one part has hooks (male), the other part has loops (female). Make sure you place the correct part on the pieces you want to join.) Don’t try to save money by skimping on the velco. Using shorter and narrower pieces is tempting, but in a wind the pieces will not hold together.

The giant spine can be used anywhere you wish to gain attention for your office. It works great as a parade float, but it can also be used (single vertebra) at a screening event, office promotion or a sporting event.

You will need one person for each vertebra, 2 people to carry the banner at the front of the giant spine, 1 person to drive the vehicle at the back of the giant spine, and at least 2 people on each side of the giant spine handing out candy/promo items (it’s better if you have 4 on each side). This totals 19-23 people assuming you have 12 vertebrae as I always did. Organizing this many people for a summer holiday can be quite taxing. After the first year that I used the giant parade spine, I called my local high school and spoke to an administrator who directed me to one of the sports team coordinators. The team (tennis team) was happy to assist me especially when I told them I would like to make a donation to their team in gratitude for their help. The following year the football team helped me. Always arrange or ask for more help than you think you will need because it’s likely a few will not show up. If you do use your staff or perhaps even some patients, reward them. When office staff and patients are used, it adds the benefits of teamwork, camaraderie, and unity of purpose.

– Ignore some peoples’ initial comments of “Oh, look at the little airplanes or the little white sharks” – they will figure it out when they see your chiropractic signage.

-The landmark designation on the signs is important because people will remember that easier than an address (I used across from South Shore YMCA).

Consider adding music and have a “dancing spine”.

-Give candy to the kids and the promo items to the adults. Give each person carrying a vertebra a small bottle of water to carry with them. Distributing coupons to the crowd for a complimentary exam is a great idea.

-Most people don’t know how many vertebrae are in the human spine, nor do they know that each is shaped differently, that’s why the number and imperfections do not matter.

-Expect to have some overspray/application of glue, and some scuff marks, and perhaps even some errors in your cutting of the foam. These flaws will not be noticed by the parade crowds, so don’t worry about it. For dirt smudges like fingerprints, use a sprayable cleaner and towel.

-Store the collapsed and stacked spine in a flat dry space surrounded with plastic wrap.

-Palmer College rents out their giant parade spine but it is difficult to obtain on the holidays. Last time I checked the rent was $600/day. Also, their vertebrae do not dismantle and lay flat so you must rent a large truck to transport Palmer’s spine, substantially adding to the cost.

-The vertebra are quite light (less than ten pounds), but most parades are slow and about 1-2 miles in length so make sure those you recruit/invite can walk that far.

-Extra attention can be gained by making a vertebra for a dog and walking it at the back of the giant spine – the tailbone!

Using the giant parade spine can be one of the best chiropractic marketing events for your practice if you use it correctly. The key is to let the crowds know who you are and where to find you. This is accomplished in two major ways: 1) have your name/address and a landmark close to your office clearly visible in the front of the spine (using a 3 foot by 6 foot(minimal) banner carried parallel to the roadway), and large banners (at least 6 foot by 6 foot) on both sides of the vehicle at the back of the giant spine. 2) hand out items with your office name/address/phone to the crowds as you pass by (I handed out coupons, bent pens, and jar openers). The crowds love to see the main doctor at the front of the display smiling and waving. This is your chance to ham it up, doc!

Acetylene and Oxygen Cutting Torch – OSHA Says Oxyfuel Safety is Part of Welding Safety

Two Oxyfuel Safety Horror Stories – and one of them could have been a tragedy.

Story #1

A worker was returning from a lunch break and preparing to complete his task of cutting a truck u joint with an oxygen acetylene torch.

He turned on the Acetylene valve and then proceeded to open the valve on the oxygen tank. The oxygen regulator exploded which then saturated his shirt with oxygen. His shirt ignited and burn him severely on his torso. The cause of the accident was determined to be Regulator Burnout or RBO caused by the worker not bleeding down the pressures when he left for lunch.

Story #2

A worker was preparing for July 4th festivities by filling latex gloves with an oxygen and acetylene mixture. His plan was to be the hit of the neighborhood by lighting these latex glove bombs later that night. As he was carrying an armload of the explosive latex balloons, a static spark from the latex rubbing together made them all explode. A burned chest, some permanent hearing loss, and dislodged kidney stones that he wasn’t even aware of were the price for stupidity that day. Had they ignited in the trunk of his Camaro, which is where he planned to put them, he would probably not have survived.

Oxyfuel equipment is dangerous.

Story #1 is understandable but entirely preventable by using known oxyfuel safety principles

Story #2 is natural selection at work. There is no excuse . And yet I sometimes see YouTube videos of people filling balloons with oxygen and acetylene and I think to myself “Holy Crap, they are all going to Die!”

Ideas To Help With Percussion In The Beginner Band

The beginner band is a big challenge, you have an endless band of students who are just starting to learn their instruments, and you are trying to both educate and inspire them to play.

Getting the percussion section to work effectively can be one of the biggest challenges, particularly if you do not know a lot about percussion.

Do not let them be "drummers" only – be "percussionists" instead

This is the most important thing to realize – that band students are often attracted to percussion so that they can play the drum set. The drum set (or drum kit) is often used in the school band, and often is very important, so students feel that if they are not playing it they have to sit there and wait.

The band director has to find a way around this situation – if you only have one drummer, then great! They can play the drum kit and away you go.

The issue can happen when you have multiple drummers in the band, sometimes two, four, eight or ten! One way that works very effectively and has been used for many years is to have one player playing snare drum, one playing bass drum, and one cymbal player, even if you have a "drum kit" part written out. If you have this type of band I recommend having this setup at all times, and making the students stand up to play the snare drum. You then have the cymbals and concert bass drum, and its designed to be played by three players all the time.

Have an Auxilliary Percussion Table – and make them stand up to play at all times

There is nothing worse than vaguely hearing a shaker or tambourine in a school band, and struggling to see the person sitting on a chair behind the drummer!

When playing tambourine, triangle or shaker – these instruments are often more critical to the sound of the band than the snare drum or drum set, so therefore they must be taken really seriously .. by the band director as well as by the players.

So always have a "traps" table with everything in easy reach. Its not too expensive to make one or buy one of the available professional ones.

The players must always stand up to play, and have their music stand set up so that they can look immediately over it at the band conductor.

Warm up – please do not ignore us!

I've been a percussionist in a school band … there is nothing more frustrating that spending your time sitting in the school band room while you wait for the wind players to tune up and warm up. Often the band director will spend up to half an hour warming the players up – and expect the percussionists to remain quiet during that time.

How to deal with it?

– If you're going to warm up for half an hour …. Tell the percussion section to arrive later than the rest! – it makes no difference to you and its better than them being a distraction!

– Why not send them into a different room for their own section rehearsal during this time? Get a specialist teacher or assistant to work with them on their parts

– Use predefined warm-up routines that go along with what you are doing with the wind players. (does not always work, but can do depending on the materials you have)

Be prepared to supplement the band book

When I helped out with beginner bands I found it necessary to supplement the band books that the students were using with additional materials – often the materials are not interesting or they do not have enough variety to keep the students engaged in the materials.

They'll need lots of work on basic rudiments and rolls – often the band books do not address those things early enough. So there before you may be able to supplement it with other material which is available online and in books.

Everyone playing mallets?

I'm going to leave this up to you – it depends on the different personalities in each of the bands you have. One popular series of band books the "standard of excellence" has snare drum / bass drum on the left hand pages of the book, and mallet percussion on the right. Another type the "essential elements" has one snare drum and one mallet percussion book.

I think that percussionists should rotate and do as much as possible, and if that means that they each need two books, whereas every other member of the band needs only one .. then that's the way it should be!

There are no quick fixes to make percussion better in the beginner band, but hopefully this article can give you one or two ideas that will help!

Chimney Repair Cost – A Quick Guide

The cost of having your chimney repaired depends on the extent of the damage as well as the contractor you choose to work with. You should seek out someone with a track record of doing quality work who charges a fair and competitive price in order to get the most for your money and to stay within your budget.

A simple cleaning may not cost very much, but a complete renovation or rebuilding of your chimney may cost substantially more. For instance, bricks may need replaced and grafted in with the old bricks that are still intact. That will cost money for both parts and labor. A thorough cleaning will just cost you the man hours. The cost of having your chimney repaired may be something as simple as getting a chemical cleaning log to get rid of the excess carbon built up on the inside of your chimney from lots of use. This is a natural process that just requires some gentle scraping after you’re through burning your log.

If the outside portion of your chimney is completely falling apart, it will require that you pay out for the services of a contractor who can climb up on your roof and take care of the problem. Eventually, if it is continually used and the necessary repairs are not made, the flames can potentially escape to other parts of the house. This is a serious hazard, and it’s one of the reasons why this needs to be done occasionally.

If the house is old but the chimney is new, consider the investment in repairing your chimney in order to protect the house. If you can do any of the repair work yourself, you can cut down on costs a great deal more than if you had to use a contracting specialist to do the bulk of the work. A complete rebuilding of your chimney can cost up to several hundred dollars and even into the thousands range, depending on the scope of the work involved and who you hire to do the job.

If you plan on having him do a cleaning as well, you can add that to the total amount of your bill. However you choose to go about having the work done, remember that it will probably cost you more in the long run if problems go without being dealt with because of the hazards to your home and because having a chimney completely replaced is even more costly.

What to Expect if You Have a Broken Lease With an Apartment

I have a broken lease!

The vast majority of apartments will not work with you if you owe another rental property money or break a rental lease. The properties that will work with you have different qualifying criteria. Almost without exception the property will want to know you have re-established your rental history. A few of them will want extra deposits and it’s usually dependent on how much you owe the property you broke your lease at. Apartments can go back to the beginning of time when verifying rental history. Even owing a property 10 years ago can easily get you denied.

I have a broken lease out of state!

Once a broken lease is reported to the credit bureau it will show up no matter where you are. If you owe a property money most of them will not work with you. In effect a broken lease out of state is the same as a broken lease with a local apartment Your options will remain the same…make payment arrangements or go to a property that will work with you.

I do not have a broken lease, but I owe a property money!

Usually that means you owe a cleaning fee are something along those lines. Again… apartments not work with you. But usually the amounts owed aren’t that much and you can make arrangements to get them paid off.

I have a broken lease. but my credit is good!

Many apartments especially newer ones, use a point system like Saferent or Credit Retriever. If you score in the except range and your background checks out some of them will work with you. But most apartments will automatically deny you if you owe another property money.

I have more than one broken lease!

Difficult… but not quite impossible. They will hit you with an extra deposit and might require a co-signer. The extra deposit can be as much as a months rent. Sometimes first and last months. Very few apartments will do this.

I have a broken lease and rough credit!

There are a small number of apartments that will work with you but you must have re-established your rental history and it must be verifiable. Living with your mom, aunt, cousin or uncle may not count as rental history in many rental properties. Just because you are not currently on a lease d does not mean you d do not have verifiable rental history.

I do not have a broken lease, but my roommate or spouse does!

Most rental properties will not put your roommate on as an occupant. Everyone over 18 occupying the apartment must be on the lease and qualify to live there. You could easily be denied. There are still a few properties out there that will work with an occupant situation but there getting harder and harder to find. Its ridiculous when people making $50,000 to $100,000 a year can’t qualify for a $500 a month apartment… but its a fact.

I have an eviction!

This is a bigger problem than a broken lease. Even apartments that will work with a broken lease may not touch an eviction. The reason is they had to take you to court. This is a major expense for properties, not to mention a hassle.

I am in a lease right now and I want to break it!

Stop…take a deep breath. Are you sure that’s what you want to do? Breaking a lease with an apartment in is a major cause of denials and severely limits the number of rental properties you will qualify for. It will stay on your credit forever, are until you take care of it, and of course, you will be denied at most places you go to.

What are payment arrangements?

Before your broken lease goes to collections you have a window of opportunity to make arrangements to pay your lease off in small AFFORDABLE payments. The manager will give you a letter saying that your making arrangements and many apartments will work with you. There are many, many properties that will insist it be paid in full before they will work with you.

I have made payment arrangements. Why was I denied?

Most rental properties want your broken lease paid in full before they will accept you. Luckily there are some properties that will work with payment arrangements. What this means is you go back to the property you broke your lease at and tell them you want to pay off your broken lease. The arrangements can be $20, $30, $50 a month, and maybe more. Whatever you agree on with the property manager. NEGOTIATE… Make your first payment and get a letter stating that you have made arrangements to pay off your broken lease. Then with that letter… you can go to the apartments that will work with you. It is important that you continue making payments or the property will put it right back on your credit.

I co-signed for a friend and they skipped on the rent!

You have a broken lease….sorry! You can dispute it on your credit or hunt down your friend and have them make payment arrangements. But you are responsible from the apartment’s viewpoint.

How to legally break a lease.

If your in the military and being transferred or re-deployed …no problem!. Otherwise, you will have to pay a re-let fee. Usually 85% of a months rent. Sometimes you will have to pay back concessions as well. (say you got $250.00 off your first months rent) Many apartments in will hold you responsible for the rent until it is leased again. That’s the scary part … be sure and clarify that with the manager. No property can collect 2 rents on the same unit at the same time. Talk with your apartment manager and be crystal clear that you understand their policies regarding re-let fees.

I am getting mail from a collection agency concerning my broken lease!

This means it has been reported to the credit bureau and is now on your credit report. Your broken lease is official. You will have to pay it off, make payment arrangements or find a rental property that will work with you. When you find yourself here you almost have to work with a apartment locator or realtor.

I broke a lease but I had a very good reason too!

For all practical purposes an apartment lease is ironclad…. let me repeat that…IRONCLAD. If you absolutely have to break an apartment lease agreement, talk to your manager or landlord first, explain your situation and try and make payment arrangements with them. Most of them understand and will work with you. Some of them will bend over backwards. Property managers can be sympathetic but remember they have heard it all. There are procedures they must follow to the letter of the law. That’s why most of them cannot take partial payments (all though many will… for a while.) In practical terms most people break a lease because they lose their job are or getting a divorce. Sometimes a family member gets sick. Sometimes its an abusive situation. Sad as it may be… none of these things will matter if you do not fulfill the terms of your lease agreement….sorry.

Somebody broke into my car and I left!

Nobody wants to live in fear, but an apartment lease agreement is ironclad. That means you will end up with a broken lease. I have seen apartment managers let people out, but usually it’s just one of those unfortunate things, from the apartments point of view. Definitely tell the manager and call the police. Whatever happens will be at the manager’s discretion. Be thorough and have documentation when you talk to him/her.

They said I did not give a 30 day notice!

Apartments are very strict about this. You must give proper notice and they must know you have given proper notice. Write it, date it and make an extra copy for your records. DO NOT JUST DROP IT IN THE NIGHTBOX. In spite of the fact you have fulfilled the time on your lease you could still end up with a broken lease because you didn’t give proper notice. Worse still…you could be denied at the next property your looking at. Most properties want you to give notice no later then the 3rd. There are quite a number of apartments that make you give a 60 day notice . Be sure you know exactly what the policy is. Oh…and one more thing! Just because you have lived there five years, paid your rent on time and have been an ideal tenant, do not think they cant break your lease without proper notice.