4 Great Recipes to Create a Cherry Desert Using a Dutch Oven

Deserts using a Dutch Oven is a great way to cook. This article will show you 4 easy dutch oven cherry deserts. Each of these recipes use simple to find, easy to pack ingredients.

The first Dutch Oven Cherry Desert requires:

Ingredients:

1 can crushed pineapple

1 can cherry pie filling (she said you can use others)

1 box yellow cake mix (NOT the pudding style)

1 1/2 cups melted butter (I’m sure you could use less if wanted)

Start by pouring your crushed pineapple including the juice into the Dutch Oven (D.O.).

Now add the pie filling. Next pour DRY mix on top of the fruit and filling. Next melt 1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) of butter. Pour over the dry cake mixture. Next bake at 350 degrees (about 10 coals on botton and 12-15 coals on top), and it will usually take about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Take out when done and let cool before serving.

Here is a nice Cherry Desert from our European friends. Black Forest Cake in a Dutch Oven

To start with you will need to line a 12″ D.O. with heavy duty aluminum foil, this will reduce the clean up required.

Next using a box of Devil’s Food Cake, prepare the mix as per the instructions on the back of the box. Pour the prepared mix into your lined D.O..

Gently spoon the cherry pie filling ON TOP of the cake mixture. (DO NOT stir the pie filling into the cake mix.) Bake as you would a Cobbler. It should be done in about 30-35 minutes. Test with a toothpick or metal skewer. If the it is clean the cake is done; if the it is gooey with cake mix, let it bake longer.

When done, remove it from the coals and let it cool a few minutes. Server while warm with whipped cream or Cool Whip (if desired).

This desert is a Cobbler.

Open 2 cans of Cherry pie filling, put in a foil lined Dutch Oven, pour on top a white, yellow or spice cake mixture dry. Put on top of cake batter half a cup butter or margarine, cut into pieces & scatter around the dry cake mix. 10 coals on bottom of DO & 15 on top. Cook for about 45 minutes.

The last Dutch Oven Cherry Desert, before I have to raid the refrigerator, is for those on a diet. This is a reduced calorie favorite.

Start with a standard box of cake mix. Dutch Chocolate works very well. Do NOT mix according to the directions on the box. Mix in one can of reduced calorie cherry pie filling and a can of diet lemon-lime soda. Bake at 350 per the directions on the cake box. About 30-45 mins.

I hope you enjoy these recipes. They can be modified to work with almost any fruit mix. Apples and Peaches both are very good.

Why Vitamin D Is Important For Your Health And Weight Loss

Vitamin D is produced in your skin when you’re exposed to the sun’s rays, and it affects your body in various ways. Besides getting Vitamin D from the sun, there are also foods where you can get Vitamin D, and you can always take high-quality supplements to make sure you’re getting enough. For those who live in the Northern hemisphere it’s essential to supplement especially through the Fall, Winter and early Spring months.

Foods that contain Vitamin D include fatty fish such as tuna, mackerel, and salmon – to name a few. Always be sure to eat wild caught fish as opposed to farmed fish to reduce your toxin exposure. Other sources are free-range eggs, mushrooms, and a high-quality cod liver oil supplement.

Vitamin D helps with the absorption of calcium in our bodies. Because of this, taking in adequate amounts of Vitamin D can help you to build strong, healthy bones. A good amount of calcium is essential for healthy bones, and you need Vitamin D to attain this balance. On top of this, it supports your immune system, which can help you lower your risk of developing illnesses.

Research has also suggested that Vitamin D can help you regulate your mood. So heading out into the sun each day could help keep the blues at bay and boost your mood on a daily basis. Consistency with supplementation and/or sun exposure is key to feeling the results. Have you ever noticed when the weather is great and you’re outside that you simply just feel good? Always take precaution with sun exposure though to prevent skin damage.

Vitamin D could assist you with your weight loss efforts. It has the ability to suppress your appetite and help you to lose weight. We know that excessive hunger and cravings can sabotage our efforts so if we feel balanced and calm we can adhere to our weight loss plan. Be sure to track your macro-nutrient intake for the day and fill up on high volume foods. Consistency and dedication will get you the results you want.

Check with your medical doctor and consider getting blood work done to test your Vitamin D levels. Your doctor may say your levels are low and not to worry, you can increase them naturally with consistency. Your levels will typically be low depending on where you live in the world or how much clothing covers your skin on a daily basis.

Now you know why Vitamin D is extremely essential – it is your job to go out and make an effort to up your Vitamin D, stock up on wild fatty fish or head outside for a walk in the sun.

Vitamin D12 Benefits For Your Health and Wellbeing

The 12 benefits of adequate Vitamin D3 (CHOLECALCIFEROL) are easily identified from the medical literature. These benefits appear in enough different places that it can be assumed the studies are valid.

  1. Adequate levels of Vitamin D3 protect against Breast Cancer. One problem with cancer cells is that they don’t destruct when they are supposed to. They keep dividing and reproducing. Vit. D receptors are present on most cells in our body and help to trigger appropriate cell death, and identify to the immune system the correct cells it should eliminate.
  2. Ditto for Cancer of the Colon (large bowel). Both colon cancer and breast cancer are increased in people of color. The same people most likely to have lower levels of Vitamin D3 in their blood. People who have more pigment in their skin need 30% more sun exposure to produce enough cholecalciferol. Anyone and especially dark skinned individuals need to supplement if they live in northern latitudes that have more months of reduced sunshine per year.
  3. Vitamin D regulates absorption of calcium and phosphorus which are needed for healthy bones. Low levels of D3 are associated with poor bone development in children and bone softening in adults called osteopenia if mild or osteoporosis if advanced.
  4. Vitamin D3 is associated with proper immune function. It is no coincidence that the “cold season” is during winter months when there is less sunshine.
  5. The Brain’s health is dependent upon a number of factors and one of them is adequate levels of Vitamin D3.
  6. Keeping adequate levels of Vitamin D3 in our blood and tissues is associated with decreased aging changes in our body. Want to keep your vitality longer? Make sure you get enough Vitamin D in your diet or enough sunshine in your life.
  7. Certain female gynecologic infections are associated with inadequate blood levels of Vitamin D3. Bacterial Vaginosis is the most common of these and hardest to control. If you have vaginitis and it won’t clear, check your 25OH Vitamin D blood levels.
  8. Insulin is a very important hormone but it can be over or under secreted. Vitamin D helps regulate insulin secretion.
  9. Many patients, especially women complain of joint pain and fatigue. Some of them have been given the diagnosis of Fibromyalgia. Inadequate blood levels of D3 are associated with these aches, pains and fatigue. Get your 25OH vit D levels checked or take a therapeutic trial of 1000IU/day and keep a journal of your symptoms.
  10. Auto-immune disorders wreak havoc with tissues in our body. Common diseases that are caused by auto immune dysfunction are diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis, and hypo-thyroidism. Adequate levels of Vit. D3 in the blood and tissues decreases the risk and severity of such diseases.
  11. Hypertension is associated with inadequate blood and tissue levels of several minerals and vital substances like potassium, calcium, selenium, and you guessed it Vit. D3.
  12. Vitamin D3 if kept at adequate levels in the blood is associated with a decreased risk of death from any cause. It isn’t a panacea, but it obviously plays a more important role in our health than was realized for any years.

Russian Nesting Dolls – Facts You Might Not Have Known

The glorious rainbow elements of the Russian culture involve the many folktales, unique cuisine, cultural ethics, art, music and literature. But nothing could truly match the evolution of nesting dolls that is unique to Russia. Different cultures across the world have a significant something that portrays a long treasured history just at the first impression. When it comes to Russian culture, the prominent item of significance that flashes across through the minds of many, are the Russian nesting dolls. They have risen amongst cultural norms and showcased different facets of the society eloquently through their intelligent shapes, colors, pictures, designs and metaphorical impressions. They are an artful representation of Russian history. These nesting dolls have indeed popularized Russian culture and art forms worldwide with its stupendous and unique charm.

What are they made up of?

Lime wood is the main ingredient in this ancient art recipe of creation of perfectly fitting, heavenly-looking nesting dolls. If not lime wood, other wood varieties like birch, alder and aspen are used. Russians even consider it a pride to have got a huge collection of their Russian dolls. In ancient times, these were wholly carved and fabricated manually by skilled craftsmen but as technology developed and these dolls became commercially popular, certain rotator machines were used for mass production. However, even today most of the Russian dolls have the manual contribution of skilled Russian craftsmen.

For making a Russian doll, the fundamental craft is to carve the figurines in a rotating motion. A person requires immense expertise for the same, as no measurements are made while making them. With high crafting skills and attention to detail, comes a perfect end product of the Russian culture and traditions. The perception of the artisan is his measuring IQ that is essentially a factor that avoids duplication of this art by any other artisan with any other art background. The initial step requires tools like a knife and a chisel that have been used down the ages for carving these immaculate-looking dolls. It is logical that artisans start off the production of a typical nesting doll in an ascending order of the size of the dolls. The smallest among them is first created which also is the only one that cannot be detached. This is followed by the carving of the upper and lower parts increasing sizes for the bigger nesting doll covers. The number of nesting dolls may hugely vary according to the kind of end product required. These are then hand-painted by experienced and skilled artists. An outline for the colorful figure is first marked and the colors are filled in accurately in all the dolls such that they look uniform. In some others, the paintings are not uniform but consist of different colors and designs.

Interesting Facts:

These Russian nesting dolls include a spectrum of notable themes and stories where the paintings and doll shapes could portray the image of a sport personality, certain famous animation characters, celebrities from show business, and even images of political leaders. These dolls look elegant and set themselves apart from other dolls, and this is the reason why these Russian dolls make an exceptional and mostly preferred gift in Russia. Not only Russians, but people from different countries are also fond of these dolls.

They also go by the names stacking or stackable dolls, babushka or babushka or babooshka dolls, matrioshka or matroshka or matreshka dolls. However, the most name for these dolls happens to be Matryoshka which is derived from the word ‘Mater’ of the Russian origin. Mat in other words is mother, and the concept of a mother bearing all her children within herself and being the eternal lifeline of the family is elegantly narrated through these dolls.

For years, these dolls have been playing the role of a perfect and treasured gift for every occasion and continue to be so for years to come.

Determining the Authenticity of Cast Iron

Resilient to abuse and versatile by nature, ‘Cast’ iron was so named because it is made by ‘casting’ (pouring) molten iron into a mold. The 1830’s through the middle of the 1850’s was a period when cooking vessels – and the stoves on which to cook with them – were made of cast iron, and made in abundance. Fanciful castings were also in great demand during this time for windows, furniture and lawn decorations.

Assisted by the technological advances of the Industrial Revolution, toys made of cast iron eventually made their debut. The more popular designs of such things as doorstops and toys were made for many decades, making authentic examples reasonably accessible today, if a bit pricey. The first cast iron mechanical bank was successfully marketed in 1868.

To produce a cast iron piece a pattern maker would make a model of the item to be cast. Although sometimes metal patterns would have been made for continuous re-casting of the numerous small parts of a toy or bank, the main pattern would usually be made of wood. Pattern makers were often artists skilled in wood carving.

Sand casting was the method of choice for decorative items like doorstops, as well as banks and toys. Sand casting entailed the use of a very fine sand mixed with a binder to hold it firm. The damp sand would be used to mold the exterior features of the model or ‘die’, which was then removed, leaving an image of its pattern behind in the packed sand. Sprues would be cut in the sand and then melted ‘pigs’ of iron would be poured through the channels to fill the pattern.

When cool, the resulting piece of cast iron would be removed from the mold. If flaws or imperfections were visible, a piece would simply be tossed back to be melted down once again. If the casting was a good one, the surface of the piece would be carefully finished and polished. Separate pieces would be bolted or riveted, pinned in some way or, in the case of many turn of the century and later pieces, screwed together to complete the finished article.

Because of the craftsmanship and hand labor required to make them, earlier cast iron, toys and banks that were made in this way were never inexpensive when first sold. They were made by skilled workers who took great pride in their work. Their craftsmanship is still recognizable in the pieces they made that survived the times.

Is it Old?

Today, newly made ‘fantasy’ character and advertising pieces, as well as other types of cast iron, are widely sold for decorative and utilitarian use. Since the 1970’s companies who specialize in the collectibles market have been heavily reproducing things like doorstops, mechanical banks, toys and kitchen goods created from molds taken from old and authentic pieces. These days, fantasy items of every stripe have also entered the market.

These types of goods are most often cheaply made and exported from countries like India, China and Mexico. Because the method of manufacture is primarily intended to churn out a great number of items cheaply and quickly, rather than each piece being made by specialized craftsmen focused on quality, it is usually fairly easy to differentiate unmarked reproduction items from authentic cast iron pieces if you are aware of the features and details to look for that can help identify them.

Production Aspects of New Iron Products

As a general rule, imported reproductions of vintage cast iron toys/banks will be heavier and less detailed than their original counterpart, and the pieces often don’t fit well together. Obvious misalignment of major sections at joints, warped castings, or incomplete castings, should alert you that the item is not of the quality one would find in a truly old piece. In addition, old cast iron is incredibly smooth to the touch, almost silky; it will never be rough or grainy. Antique pieces were cast in extremely fine sand which rendered crisp detail. The makers of cast iron reproductions have always used coarse sand. Not only does this result in lost details, but a grainy or pebbled surface is almost always the result. If you aren’t sure how to identify this type of surface visually, then don’t try. Close your eyes and let your fingers tell you the age of a suspect item.

Any excess flash should be a dead giveaway, too. Flash is a thin edging of excess metal that stands proud along the edges of seams or design elements – inside the spokes of a wheel, for instance, or the inside edges on the coin slot of a bank. Old pieces were always well finished along all edges, even inside the crevices of open details like scroll-work. Very little to no flashing will be present on an old piece. Basically, if the casting looks crude on a piece, you should be suspicious of the item. If flashing isn’t obvious but rough grinding marks are, this is also an indication of newer make. Modern power tools like electric grinders didn’t exist in 1890. Any finishing marks should be near to invisible if the piece is truly old.

Remember, original, late 1800’s/early 1900’s pieces were hand cast, finished and assembled by craftsmen who took pride in their work. Cast iron toys and banks, in particular, were often expensive so their makers took great care to ensure that their product looked good enough to be worth the price they would be asking someone to pay for them.

Item Characteristics to Consider

Antique cast iron will have a better level of detail in paint. The paint and trim on the originals was applied much more expertly; look especially at faces on figural pieces. Old, original paint may appear to be fairly thickly applied and its surface will often have a hard, well cured look.

Newer pieces are usually mechanically spray painted with a thin layer of paint, although not always. Sometimes a piece is left completely bare or will have been stripped of the factory applied paint in order to more easily make it look ‘aged’.

Beware, too, of fake ‘patina’ that may have been wiped on to dull the over-bright look of new paint. Some fakers will go so far as to actually bake items in an oven to quickly age new paint surfaces; or they will bury a cast iron item briefly to achieve the same effect.

Dings or scrapes to surfaces to suggest wear, and therefore age, can easily be artificially produced on a new item. Use your common sense to ask yourself where an authentic item that was used or played with should be expected to have wear. New items may have ‘wear,’ but it often won’t be on the areas of the piece where it should logically be found. If you can see wear in inappropriate areas of a piece, but a pristine surface in the places where wear would logically be expected, you almost certainly are looking at a fake.

Old pieces were never held together with modern Phillips head screws, which began being commercially manufactured ca. 1940. If you see a Phillips head screw under supposedly original paint, then the item is without doubt a reproduction. Phillips head screws will never be found in an antique piece from the late 1800’s. Fakers, of course, know that collectors have gotten wise to this oversight and many newer cast iron fakes and reproductions are now produced with slotted screws that more closely resemble those that would be found in authentic pieces.

Quite a few foundries embossed their production with a mark, name or patent number. Hubley was a company noted for cast iron toys and decorative items like doorstops that frequently had their name incorporated in the mold. However, since some reproductions are produced from molds made by using an original piece, a maker’s name isn’t always proof that an item is authentic. Reproductions and fantasy items currently in production today are rarely marked with anything more than a paper label which soon disappears. ‘Taiwan’ is a mark sometimes found on the base of some reproduction mechanical banks made from the 1970’s through the 1980’s. This is not the mark of a turn of the century American manufacturer.

Look for features that made cast iron toys popular way back when, like an extremely realistic nature for the piece. An antique cast iron buggy toy might have been outfitted with many extras, like reins and harness on the horse, people for the seats and detachable lamps. Intended as toys, these should should roll very smoothly since obviously they were intended to be played with. Reproductions may include a few ‘add ons’ like a driver or some barrels for the back of a wagon, but they usually will lack very small pieces that would be deemed a child hazard by today’s standards. Invariably, modern cast iron toys and banks are rather clunky in motion, too, though they may function.

The above are just some of the ways it is possible to tell authentic from reproduction cast iron. Since cast iron toys, banks and similar ‘collectible’ items are being widely reproduced at present it would be advisable to research the subject thoroughly in order to obtain the necessary knowledge prior to making a purchase yourself. This will give you the easy ability to accurately present an item to a customer as being an ‘old’ and/or authentic piece.

Disguising Your Oil Tank in the Garden

Domestic heating oil tanks are essential for many properties, especially rural homes, as they are used to store the oil needed to heat their homes. Regardless of their necessity, heating oil tanks aren’t the most attractive of objects to have in your garden.

As well as making your tank more aesthetically pleasing, disguising your tank can also help to prevent oil thefts.

Here are a couple of tips on how to disguise your oil tank:

  • Build a shed around your heating oil tank. The shed will need to have large doors so that the entire tank can fit through, in case the tank needs replacing, and preferably not be of a wood construction in the event of a fire. The tank also needs to be well lit and easily accessible for filling, including sufficient roof height. Making the shed bigger than required for the tank will also ensure there is enough ventilation around the tank.
  • Put a trellis fence around your oil tank. Trellis is a great way to disguise a tank and can be incorporated with your garden theme and colours. Make sure you have a gate or entrance on one side so that the tank is easily accessible for filling and maintenance. You could even cover the trellis with hanging vines to create even more of a disguise.
  • Build a wall around your domestic oil tank. Using concrete blocks or cement you could build a wall around your oil tank, but be sure to leave plenty of space for ventilation around the tank. Be sure not to block the tank in as it’ll need to be accessible for the driver to inspect before his delivery and for filling and maintenance. Once the wall is in place, you can decorate the area with plants; however these you will need to move these out of the way before your delivery is made to ensure that there are no hazards to your delivery driver. Potted plants would need to be moved before the delivery. If any plants are put in permanently, they need to not be of a height that would impede the delivery, and not have thorns that would cause injury to the driver during the delivery.
  • Surround the tank with tall plants. You’ll need to leave adequate space around the tank, but plants and bushes such as holly and boxwood provide good coverage when they are fully grown. Grasses such as pampas grass are also quite popular as they don’t take long to grow. Pots in plants would need to be moved before the delivery.
  • Get creative. If you’re feeling particularly creative you could choose to paint your oil tank – although done poorly you could attract even more attention to it! We’ve seen everything from Dougal (the Magic Roundabout Character) to giant watermelons and marrows, to Thomas the Tank Engine!

Whatever disguise you opt for, accessibility and safety is key. Let us know your favourite option below.

Top 10 Romantic Getaways For Under $5,000

Looking to just get away from it all? And you don’t have an entire checking account to splurge? Well no worries my friends, we all can’t be millionaires, unfortunately. But when it comes time to sharing that special vacation with somebody that you love, many us draw blanks come time to book and plan that special trip. However, this does not mean that there are not plenty of great places that you and your lover can escape to. To better help you decide, here are the top ten romantic getaways for under $5000!

1. Maui, Hawaii: enjoy relaxing on the romantic beaches of Maui while you stay at the Kihei Bay Vista Resort-a fully featured and amenity rich resort that offers high thread count sheets and plenty of great room service eats. Online packages, which include airfare and four days/four nights, start at about $765 per person-that’s around $1500 bucks and all you pay for is food and a rental car once on the island.

2. Cancun, Mexico: one of the most pristine, clean and beautiful barrier reef islands beckons you and your lover to come stay on the strip-like resort, beachside environment packed with ample night-doings and plenty of history. Online packages will run you about $850 per person, which includes airfare and hotel accommodations for four nights.

3. Miami, Florida: take your significant other to one of the most popular and romantic places in the world, and catch a day at Disney World, without the kids. Miles from hundreds of islands, Miami is a destination city. Online packages will run about $600 per person, including flight and a nice hotel room.

4. Aspen, Colorado: for a different, snowy romantic retreat, head to the Rocky Mountains and go on a romantic skiing trip. Lodging at a signature, mountainside resort, including lift passes, will only eat your wallet out of about $600 per person for a four day trip-including flight.

5. Newport Beach, California: perhaps one of the most inexpensive ways to get away from it all-you can easily find dozens of great vacation packages to beachside resorts, including airfare and logging for four nights, for about $500 per person online.

6. Acapulco, Mexico: a cheaper destination perhaps than Paris or Venice, you can easily find plenty of great deals online for all-inclusive trips to destination resorts. Packages range from about $600-800 per person, including airfare for a four night esplanade in the Mexican Riviera.

7. San Diego: one of the most popular romantic vacation destinations in the world awaits you. You will not find better deals to anywhere else online than here. Five day packages, which include your flight, a rental car and nice resort hotel room, start at around $600 per person.

8. San Francisco: the city by the bay is just a few hundred dollars away, where culture, nice beaches and five star eateries beckon you to come say hello. Enjoy a romantic trip for two here for about $600-$800, which includes your plane trip, and your hotel room for five nights.

9. Paris, France: perhaps one of the most romantic destinations in the world, a culture rich, and vibrate society will entice nearly anybody. Of course such an exotic destination never comes without an exotic price tag attached. Online packages, including airfare and hotel stay-for seven days and seven nights- start at about $1850 per person.

10. Venice, Italy: it does not get anymore romantic than taking a stroll through one of the oldest cities in the known world. Of course riding down the many, water filled canals and being serenaded also stack up in great many reasons-art galleries included-why you should head to Venice. It will cost you however to enjoy Italy, to the tune of about $1900 per person, including airfare and hotel for a week.

Graphology at Home-Lesson 14 – The Letter M

M

(Note: The letter m is considered one of the most important letters.)

Picture a diagram of the basic letter M, consisting of its three humps. The first hump represents the writer’s ego; the second hump represents his social status; the third hump represents other people. Should a particular hump not reflect the basic M, we look for variations, as we looked for variations from the school model (Palmer Method) and analyze the deviations.

o Imagine the letter (‘m’) that shows an arc curving under the body of the letter. It illustrates the performer, the speechmaker; the arc looks like an arm making a kind of gesture to the audience.

o When only two “tops” (humps) are made, the first represents the ego and the second the other person. When the first part is higher than the second is, we see the writer’s ego as of more importance than the other person. He is probably proud and conceited.

o When the first part of the letter is lower than the second part, although the whole letter itself mounts toward the end, it shows ambition. The writer’s ego is lower than the image he has of the other person. This indicates an inferiority complex, one that is dependent on others’ opinions.

o Imagine the letter (‘m’) looped and large; loops are an attention-getting device. In addition, the blown-up size of this letter indicates vanity.

o Consider the capital letter (‘M’) that, although it has the ‘opportunity’ to show off its ego by making itself larger than the rest of the word, does not do so. This indicates a writer who is modest, simple, and retiring.

o Obviously a letter made in the form of a musical note, shows musical interest.

o When the starting stroke, instead of beginning from the left, starts from the right, as though the writer needed some extra flourish to communicate his thoughts, we see talkativeness and a good sense of humor here.

o Picture the ugly-looking letter, where the middle stroke descends sharply, showing materialism. Its ugly shape indicates vulgarity.

o Imagine the middle hump is lower than the other two. Since the second hump shows the social status of the writer, this form implies dissatisfaction with his social position or his job. People who feel this way tend to rely heavily on public opinion in deciding on a course of action.

o When the middle hump is highest of the three, this writer relies more on his own opinion than on that of others. Because the second hump is “climbing” above the first and third, we see an ambitious person who may step on others to attain his goal.

o Consider the letter (‘m’) written in a wavy fashion, without distinct shape. This shows changeability. A diplomat, who must often evade ticklish situations, might write in this manner.

o Picture the letter that is called a “thready connection.” Making the proper upstrokes and downstrokes was too much trouble for this writer. He takes the easy way out and avoids them all. People who write like this usually find it difficult to make decisions and are prone to lapse into hysteria. Note: This thready M is not to be confused with the thready dying out of a word, which implies unwillingness to commit oneself-a subtle difference. (See Chapter 11, note 5.)

o Imagine the letter written in the garland form– open at the top. The garland betokens a friendly, easygoing, kind individual, which does not conceal how he feels. Its round form shows warmth and softness.

o When the angle changes, we see a person who cannot decide whether he wants to live in the past, present, or future. When the writing shows only two changes in angle the indecision is not as severe as when the writing changes angles in three directions. Nevertheless, the writer is torn.

o Consider the small, crowded ‘m.’ Since the m represents so many social aspects of the individual, this letter indicates a narrow-minded person who chooses to crowd himself in. He is probably shy.

o The rounded letter (‘m’) shows someone with a heart of gold. Roundness implies softness, like a bouncing ball, whereas angularity implies hardness, sharpness, like the point of a knife.

o There are instances when it is a good idea to watch the writer while he writes. He may take his hand off the page and make a nearly conscious decision as to how the letter should be completed. If one goes over the letter without lifting the writing tool, one has to use what are called covering-up strokes-the upstroke and the downstroke share the same line. Covering-up strokes indicate that the writer is hiding something. It usually involves cheating in one manner or another, and hence the writer tries to show as little of himself as possible, avoiding separate up-strokes and downstrokes, since separate strokes would show more of his true personality than he wants to reveal.

o Picture strokes which are broken, although there is no doubt that the letter is an ‘m.’ Writing like this is found among frugal persons (as though they were saving by not filling in the entire letter) and among nervous people. The latter seem to need to lift the hand from the page, possibly because it trembles.

o Imagine the third hump is the highest of the three. Since the third hump depicts the writer’s relationship with other people, this shows envy. He has placed others on a pedestal higher than himself and now begrudges the heights to which they have risen.

o Consider the end stroke going to the right and down. Since the normal, social thing would be to extend the final to the right; this downstroke betokens a pessimistic attitude. This writer sulks and probably suffers from depression. His writing is directed downward to reflect his feelings.

o Picture ‘tacky elaboration.’ This reflects exaggeration, because of the unnecessary strokes and surely, a lack of taste.

o Imagine the beginning stroke is hooked. A hook can reveal egotism, greed, and stubbornness. Here the hook represents ego, and because it points inward toward the first hump of the M, it shows selfishness.

o Consider the beginning stroke that is both large and flourished. Since the first part of the ‘m’ shows the ego, we see snootiness. The writer is trying to give an exaggerated image of his own worth. When used in an ungraceful manner like this, flourish strokes show false pretense and affectation.

o When the various humps are a uniform height, we see intelligence, good taste, and a generally amiable disposition. Its similarity to the block letter, which shows simplicity, implies intelligence, and good taste is shown by the very fact that the writer has chosen the simplest possible form. We read good disposition in the equal size of the humps-none distorts the others; social status, ego, and relationship to his fellowman are all in due proportion.

o The end downstroke may be significantly lighter than the rest of the letter. This writer has a mean streak in him. He cuts off his relationships with his fellowman (the shortened third hump). In addition, since the light downstroke heads in the direction of the lower (sexual) zone, he probably cannot enjoy marital relationships in the normal way. The combination of meanness and inability to enjoy normal sex hints that this writer is by nature a sadist. (See chapter 6.)

o Picture the end downstroke that is considerably more lightly written than the rest of the letter. If it continues into the lower zone, the area where the strength of the individual lies, it implies fatigue and weakness.

o The endstroke, which is written with heavy pressure, indicates brutality. There are two reasons for this: (1) all endstrokes show the writer’s relationship to the other person, and (2) the third part of the m also shows this. Thus, this personality trait is emphasized.

o Imagine the endstroke that goes up into the upper zone and ends in a heavy dot. The upper zone indicates the imaginative and intellectual aspect of the writer, and the leftward tendency of the stroke reveals negativism about him. (Leftward tendencies often mean negativism and rightward tendencies positivism.) The heavy pressure of the dot shows materialism. Adding up these facts, we conclude that this writer engages in calculating flattery.

o Consider when the endstroke is hooked. A hook in general shows tenacity, and when it is found at the end of the ‘m’ (relationship to others), we see someone whose dealings are marked by stubbornness.

o Picture the endstroke that extends into the upper zone (spirituality, mysticism). When this endstroke is found at the last part of the ‘m’ (relationship with other people), we see one who couches his human relationships in religious terms.

How Long Do the Bowflex Bows Typically Last?

You will have to look hard to find anyone who has a complaint about the craftsmanship of the Bowflex line of equipment. That is not to say that no one has ever had a problem just that they are few and far between.

The only issue it seems the Bowflex machines have had was back in 04 when there was some question about the bench and the lat tower. Seems both were prone to breaking or coming lose and falling, leaving users at risk for injury. Nautilus was quick to offer free upgrades for all units on the street and a recall of over 400,000 units. They quickly backed this up by doubling all existing warranties as well as the warranty on the new models. They did this to reassure the consumer of their commitment to excellence.

After extensive research on the subject, it appears that except for a few rare instances the Bowflex bows or power rods almost never break. They are made of a special composite material that Bowflex is so confident in they have offered free lifetime replacement warranty for broken or bent bows.

People who have had the rare issue of bow breakage all report that customer service was a breeze to work with and all warranties were upheld 100%. New rods were shipped immediately no questions asked.

When it comes to the safety and durability of their equipment, the makers of Bowflex do not mess around. Solid construction that is backed by a no nonsense warranty is hard to find these days, however Nautilus has nailed it with the Bow Flex line of equipment.

Complications With Walking Pneumonia

Walking pneumonias, also referred to as mycoplasma pneumonia or atypical pneumonia, results due to an infection by a pathogen known as Mycoplasma pneumoniae. This form of pneumonia is mild and not as severe as other types of pneumonia. The symptoms develop and surface slowly over a period of one to three weeks. Often the symptoms in this disorder can be mistaken for those related to flu or severe cold.

As per MedlinePlus, most people affected by this infection are children or those below 40 years. It is often spread amongst people who are in close proximity. Some of the symptoms include persistent cough, sore throat, and fever or chest pain.

Common fallout of mycoplsama pneumonia is infection of middle ear. Such infections are more common during early childhood and usually affect children in the age group of 6 to 24 months. The chances of children getting affected are more than adults.

While the infection is mild, walking pneumonia has the potential to cause several complications. Some of those complications are highlighted below.

In a middle ear infection, the lining in this section gets inflamed and fluid begins to accumulate behind the eardrum. Some symptoms of this condition are high fever, imbalance, irritability, dizziness, insomnia, and ear pain, drainage in ear, vomiting, appetite loss, temporary loss of hearing, and/or diarrhea. The treatment includes administration of over-the-counter drugs, antibiotics, and warm compress and drainage tubes. If left untreated, the infection can cause rupture of the ear-drum or cause loss of hearing.

People suffering from walking pneumonia are more susceptible to getting hemolytic anemia. In this condition, the bone marrow does not produce sufficient red blood cells to replace the prematurely damaged ones in the blood. Hemolytic anemia can result due to protein abnormality, variation in the protein level in blood, clots in blood, and side effects of medicines, infection or abnormal response of the immune system. Some related symptoms include dark coloration of urine, fatigue, and enlargement of spleen, chills, acceleration of heart rate, fever, and pale coloration of skin, jaundice or difficulty in breathing. The treatment includes ingestion of iron, folic acid, transfusion of blood or administration of corticosteroids.

Another fallout of this condition is rash of the skin. People, who are more allergic and sensitive to antibiotics, are at a greater risk of getting allergic reactions when treated with antibiotics. In this condition, rashes develop which can be red, flat spots; or raised small bumps Amoxicillin or penicillin administration can also trigger this condition. Discontinuation of antibiotics can reduce rashes.

Walking pneumonia can also cause severe pneumonia due to weak immunity or poor response to any treatment.

How to Clean Different Commercial Coffee Urns

There are many different kinds of commercial urns that need to be cleaned daily and weekly or bi-weekly. Daily cleaning for most of them remains about the same. The number one rule about cleaning urns: Never use chlorine bleach in any coffee urn. This will chlorine will eat at the stainless steel and the silicone gaskets. Also, whether you are doing a daily cleaning or a bi-weekly cleaning never use soap, scouring powders, or abrasives of any kind to clean coffee brewing urns.

Automatic coffee urns must be cleaned daily after the last batch using the following steps:

1 – Drain the urn; then, run a brew cycle with just very hot water. After spraying hot water into the liner, thoroughly brush the entire urn with a long-handled brush.

2 – Drain the water and repeat step one.

3 – Wash the wire brew baskets with urn cleaner and rinse thoroughly. The same process is required for the double or triple urns after they have been used.

Automatic urns must have a special scouring once a week. Scour the urn by first filling the urn and heat to maximum brewing temperature. Fill the liner with several gallons of water and add at least 1½ to 3 ounces of coffee urn cleaning compound. Set the thermostat to high; then, run a brew cycle of hot water. Allow the solution to remain in the liner for at least 30 minutes. Scrub the inside of both the liner and the cover with a long-handled brush. Drain the cleaning solution from the liner. Rinse by running several brew cycles with the sprayhead centered over the liner. Be sure to drain the rinse water after each brew cycle.

To clean the gauge glass tube, turn off the power and turn off the water line to the urn. Use a long, thin gauge glass brush to clean the coffee gauge glass. Use the same brush to clean the fitting at the bottom of the liner and into the pipe that is connected to the coffee faucet.

It is an absolute necessity that Chinese hot tea urns, pour-over urns, midline and barista series urns need to be cleaned thoroughly at the end of each day. After spaying hot water in the stainless steel liner, thoroughly wash it with a soft brush using the hot water. Add one tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda to each gallon of water or you may use commercial urn cleaners. Commercial cleaners are not recommended for this type of urn. These urns should be turned off before each gauge glass should be cleaned with a hard bristle brush. Faucets should be taken apart and cleaned properly until fully clean. Daily cleaning for Midland urns and Barista series urns need to run through the brew cycle with hot water, brush the liner, drain the urn water again and repeat the process again. Wipe the liner covers and fill the liners with about one gallon of hot water to prevent coffee-oil burn-in.

Weekly or bi-weekly urn cleaning depends on the amount of use. For regular use, the Chinese hot tea urns, midline heat exchange and pump urns and Barista Series require somewhat the same method. Where it varies for one urn, it will be noted at that step.

Step 1: Fill the liners with about a gallon of hot water. For midline urns and space saver urns leave the thermostat on “Brew.”

Step 2: Pour into the liner the recommended concentration amount of urn cleaner that is recommended for that particular urn. An excessive amount of cleaner will attack the stainless steel causing deterioration of the coffee urn. Use cleaners which have been used successfully: DIP-IT by Economics Laboratories, OXYLITE by Avril, Inc., Syndet Division and TEMP-KLEEN by Caddy Corp. of America.

Step 3: Scrub the liner interior with a large plastic brush, rinse and drain the liner. For midline and space saver urns follow Step 3a: Clean the gauge glasses with a long narrow brush.

Step 4: Rinse with the liners empty and the electricity off, remove the coffee faucets by unscrewing the large plastic wing-nuts which fasten the faucets. Scrub from the opening into the center of the urn with a long brush.

Step 5: Unscrew the top of the faucet from it body and scrub it thoroughly. Clean the silicone seat cup with a soft cloth and soapy water.

Step 6: Reassemble the faucets. Fill the liners with hot water and drain until the liner and make sure all parts are completely rinsed.

High speed brewing urns require a separate cleaning process because of the outer jacket.

Step 1: When cleaning a high speed brewer, be sure the outer jacket is full of water.

Step 2: Turn on the heat and fill the urn liner three-fourths full of water and use only urn cleaning compounds like those mentioned above.

Step 3: Mix thoroughly and let stand for about 30 minutes.

Step 4: Clean the gauge glass, faucet pipe, plugs etc. using a long-handled brush. Be sure to clean the “lug nut” in the base of the liner.

Step 5: Rinse the inside of the urn three to four times with hot water and scrub the urn each time you rinse.

Step 6: Rinse all the parts well.

Step 7: Leave a gallon or more of water in the urn. The amount of water depends on the size of the urn; the larger urns will need more water. Leave the cover partly open until the next use. If you used cold water, allow the urn to cool to prevent cracking the liner.

Step 8: Clean urn baskets by dipping them in a solution of cleaning solution and then scrubbing them with a stiff brush.

Step 9: Rinse thoroughly and let dry. Each Sprayhead should be checked to see that all holes are open, if not, scrub with a stiff brush until all holes are open.

These cleaning steps for commercial urns came from different manufacturers. Check your manufacturer for more specific details.

Strengthening the Weaker Soccer Players – Article 8

Many young and other soccer players are timid and are afraid of some contact with the opposition. This may be most apparent and occur against some teams or towns where strong aggressive play is more common or even an accepted practice by their coaches. This is easily observed when players are seen slowing down and backing-off when simultaneously a more aggressive opponent is charging towards a “loose ball”. This occurs more often with the more timid players yet may also be seen with one’s stronger players when the opponent team intimidates them with a more aggressive behavior. Yet, good soccer players are aggressive in a sense that they usually end up with a ball when going up against another player; this does not mean however, fouling the opposition player.

The correct amount of legal aggression can be taught to all players with a certain drill called “The Shoulder Charging Drill”. This exercise is not to be thought of as one that teaches illegal soccer-play or exceptional roughness; but one that is within the fair rules of the game. The international source is FIFA (Fédération Internationale de Football Association), the 2012/2013 LAWS of THE GAME states:

Law 12, page 113; FOULS AND MISCONDUCT:

Charging an opponent

The act of charging is a challenge for space using physical contact within

playing distance of the ball without using arms or elbows.

It is an offence to charge an opponent:

• in a careless manner

• in a reckless manner

• using excessive force

So within the legal limits of the law, it is permitted to make contact with an opposing player using the shoulder–this can generally mean to make shoulder to shoulder contact. But before I discuss the drill in more detail, I would like to present a little relevant history during my coaching experience with two stories:

Years ago, while organizing the Park Ridge NJ soccer league, I was approached by a middle-aged coach, coaching the house league team of an Under 10 team. It was in the middle of the season and his team had not won a single game. He also said that his players were not very soccer aggressive. So, I decided that I would personally teach his players the shoulder charging drill. For the next two practices I spent about 25 to 30 minutes with the drill, working with each player while doing the drill. About four weeks later, the same coach told me that his team had now won two games. He was happy and so was I. He attributed the wins to the new training exercise.

Years later while managing and coaching a RI Portuguese men’s team with players from the Azores, our team lost the first four matches, even though early in each game we were ahead by two to three goals, believe this or not. Our players were highly skillful, yet were not accustomed to any or much contact. They were also accustomed to play against teams with their same approach to the game. However, in this league, the teams were all American teams composed of players from other countries along with home-grown players. The game was different in so far as contact, aggression and intimidation go. Our players yielded to the intimidation as the opposition soon realized that this was the way get the upper hand (maybe the upper foot).

After the fourth game, I took each player aside and worked with them with the shoulder charging drill. One such player stopped in the middle of the drill as he was shocked at my shoulder to shoulder contact; however, shortly thereafter he caught on to the technique. Amazingly the players easily adapted to the realization that they too must show more determination. The results of this training from then on, gave us the edge along with their superior skills and good conditioning. This appropriate aggression helped them to win every game thereafter. Furthermore, our team actually won the championship that season.

Now back to a description of the drill. It is quite simple. The coach throws out a ball in front of two players, each in front of a line as if starting a race. The players are to run after the “loose ball” and shoulder charge each other to win possession of the ball. After one appropriately wins it, the other player must now win the ball. At a distance of about 25 to 30 yards, the players are to reverse direction and continue the drill back towards the starting line. Note this drill is not a race or to show dominance of any particular player. Keep this drill in mind if one’s players appear to be timid on the playing field. A more detailed description of the drill may be found in comprehensive soccer books or soccer drill books.

The drill’s intention can teach the amount of legal soccer contact (or roughness) to weaker players; however, it also benefits other players. Most young, and other players, are not aware that this is a strategy for gaining control of the ball. It must also be noted that some amateur referees may not be that familiar with legal shoulder contact and may call the contact an offense. But, this is not any reason to instruct players against using this technique: It is fair and within the laws of the game.

Players familiar with the proper use of this technique will be stronger, more confident and more skillful soccer players. A fuller effect will be seen if, along with this drill, good physical conditioning has been maintained; thus, allowing one’s players to keep up their strength throughout the full game.

Building a Hexagonal Gazebo – Easy Plan To Craft A Gazebo On Your Own

Building a hexagonal gazebo is not as complicated a process as one would think. Gazebos provide a place to spend some happy times with family and friends. Building a gazebo also gives the owner a sense of pride and achievement. Gazebos that are made from wood are considered to be sturdiest and most beautiful. You can use redwood, rosewood or cedar to make a wooden gazebo.

You can chose from a variety of styles to suit your taste that will make your gazebo stand out from the rest of them. There are a few basic techniques of building a gazebo which you need to follow.

Let’s have a look at those steps which will guide you through its construction.

Choose the location: Clean the area and level it by pouring layers of gravel. Set up four batter boards by aligning them perfectly to have a square from where you can design the hexagon. Mark and pin the square center and hold it to a semi-circle. Then mark and pin the other sides to have the hexagonal extremities done.

Erecting the Main Posts: Find the right angle for the posts towards the inside deck. Then draw a perpendicular line at 90 degrees on the outer foot to position the posts correctly. Secure metal braces to the bolts that are sticking out and screw in the posts. Find the vertical plumb to keep the post in line with temporary braces.

Decking: Building a hexagonal gazebo requires you to build the floor frame and mark posts at 15″ and 21″ from the ground. Cut the inside of the posts between the mark trim off the wood to take in the beams. The beams need to be cut at 60 degrees angle at both ends with a saw. The beams will now form a 360 degrees round angle fitting in to the hexagon shape and secure them with nails.

Assemble the joists: Screw the metal joists hangers to the beams at half way and make them sit into the joist hanger next to them. Now attach the beams with both sides at 30 degrees to form a 60 degree angle on the pier and they will form a 360 angle. The boards need to be cut from the perimeter towards the centre with the joists screwed on each side. Apply wood putty to level the depressions which will give it a neat look.

Stair for the main entrance: Stairs are a better option to the main entrance for easy access. Dig the ground 6″ in front and level it by adding 1″ gravel and sand. Shape two beams with a miter saw to match the pitch of the stair and secure them with metal braces. Now screw up the two horizontal ledger boards on both beams and nail the wooden step on the corner.

Roofing: Assemble a round hexagonal perimeter and cross beams to mimic the railings followed by spanning double ceiling joists from all sides. Cut four joists with half the length at one end at 90 degrees to slot into the beam at the opposite ends in such a way that they will form a 360 degree angle. The final step in building a hexagonal gazebo is to cut the rafters, brace and secure them at the desired span and surface the roof.

Crawl Space Ventilation – Vents Below Grade

With an unconditioned crawl space (usually dirt covered with a plastic vapor barrier and open foundation vents) a home inspector does not want to see the vents below the level of the soil. When vents are below grade, rain and runoff water are likely to enter the crawl space — which can attract wood destroying organisms or lead to fungal issues such as rot or mold.

If vents are far enough below grade, the dirt can block the openings so air will not circulate. The vents will not ventilate! When home inspectors see this condition, if vents cannot be fixed by removing or grading soil, the inspector will probably recommend that the client put in vent wells. The most simple vent wells consist of frames made from pressure-treated lumber. However, metal or plastic vent wells, specially made for the purpose, can be purchased at building supply stores. The well is dug into the soil, in front of the vent and deeper than the vent, so there is an opening in front of and below the vent. Personally, I like to see the well dug a few inches deeper than the vent, then the space filled with pea gravel up until about 2″ below the vent.

Another issue is that often people block the vents in an unconditioned crawl space. Although this is sometimes justified in winter, when there is a danger to pipes from severe temperatures, in Washington State blocked vents in an unconditioned crawl space are defined by the Washington State Department of Agriculture as conducive to attracting wood destroying organisms. A state licensed structural pest inspector should, in most cases, site blocked vents as a conducive condition. In the Pacific Northwest, if pipes are wrapped, foundation vents can be left open year-round most years. This basic information might not apply in severe climates or in partially heated or “conditioned” crawl spaces.

Digital Menu Board – Advantages and Disadvantages of a Standalone Digital Menu Board

There are a lot of different types of digital menu board that you can use for your business, and one of this is a standalone digital menu board. Unfortunately, there are still a lot of people who are not aware of the things that a standalone digital board can do for them. Today, I will be showing you the advantages and disadvantages that you and your business can get from this digital display. Reading this article will help you find the one that is perfect for your business.

Advantages of a Standalone Digital Menu Board

One of the most prominent advantages that you and your business can get from a standalone digital menu board is that it will allow you to reach your audience without spending more than what you have allotted. This is the simplest form of digital advertising, and you can have this installed and operating for less than $300.

Another advantage that you can get from a standalone digital board is that it will allow you to be more flexible with your advertising campaign. Although it is not advisable for businesses with several branches, standalone digital board will still help you get more from your advertising campaign.

Disadvantages of a Standalone Digital Menu Board

Standalone boards are cheaper, but you need to spend more money if you are going to have it installed on different locations. Businesses with several branches won’t find this option as the best for them. Standalone boards are not designed to work as a network, and a business owner will have a hard time in managing different boards at the same time.

Aside from this, you won’t be able to manage a standalone digital board remotely. It should be installed in a place where the digital signage player is located. Since this option is hard-wired, you won’t have the ability to wirelessly operate this type of digital menu board.

These are some of the things that you need to know about standalone digital board. Always remember that choosing the best for your business is very important because this will determine the results that you will get from it. It will be easier if you are going to look for providers who can help you find the one that is perfect for your business. This will also save you from the trouble of learning everything about a digital menu board just to find the one that is perfect for you.