7 Sure-Fire Tips For Potty Training Toddlers

There seems to be a widely held impression, past down from generation to generation, that potty training toddlers is arduous.

Follow this practical plan and you will be able to go from all those diapers to dry in days. But only if you are prepared not to be side-tracked by other distractions during this period and able to give your focus to toilet training.

1. Evaluating Your Child’s Readiness

Does your toddler have the required verbal understanding? This includes being able to understand and carry out simple instructions.

Does your toddler show signs of wanting to do more things for themselves such as pulling up their own pants?

Is your child’s bladder and bowel control adequately developed? For instance, can he or she go for two or three hours before wetting their diaper?

You really must not go on to item 2 until you are confident your toddler can handle being toilet trained.

2. Let’s Go Shopping

You want to make this trip to the shops as much fun as possible for your toddler. So what’s on that shopping list?

You should get:

  • An anatomically correct doll (a boy doll if you have a son, a girl doll if you have a daughter);
  • Potties (yes it’s best to have two or three around the home so there is always one close at hand when it’s wanted);
  • Underpants, preferably vibrantly colored. It’s even better if there’s a picture of one of their favorite cartoon characters on them. Diaper or training underpants can be a practical solution for any trips out but make sure you treat them as real pants not diapers;
  • a wall chart and stickers.

Remember to let your toddler have a say in the purchase choice.

3. Toilet Train The Doll

Silly as it may seem, you potty train the doll. The doll is a great teaching tool, it should not be seen as a toy. You will be using the doll to model correct behavior.

4. Celebrate The Doll’s Success

Each time the doll correctly uses the potty it is praised and a sticker is placed on the wall chart that records the doll’s progress. And when the doll has been potty trained it gets a party.

You want your toddler to realize that being potty trained is a happy, fun experience.

5. It’s Farewell to Diapers

Put your toddler in pants. There’s no retreating back to diapers even if there are two or three accidents along the way.

6. Give Your Toddler Plenty Of Fluids

The more your toddler drinks the more they will need to urinate. So they should get plenty of practice in using a potty.

7. Ask Your Toddler If They Need the Potty

If they say no that’s fine. With all those drinks they’ll soon need to go. Quiz them again a little later.

If they have a little accident you must not let your child see you are angry or disappointed. Just tell them they’ll do better next time. Take them to the potty and have them sit on it for two or three minutes. Give them fresh pants to put on. At short intervals take them back to the potty for a total of ten times. This will help to build muscle memory. Very soon they will urinate in the potty.

A little food for thought. It is not just what you say, it’s how you say it. This is certainly true when it comes to teaching a toddler new skills.

Pros and Cons – Sleep Number Bed Review

People who are planning to buy a bed would probably look for a sleep number bed review. The good news for people who plan to purchase this type of bed is that the company allows the interested customer to take the bed home and test it for thirty nights. They call this the thirty-night challenge. Many people have grabbed this opportunity to try out the bed. These people found some positive and negative sides to this bed. 

 

A sleep number bed review will tell you that this type of bed is good for allergies. The air bladder does not hold dust mites and the covers can be put in the washer. This bed is comfortable because you can have a stiffer or softer sleep when you want to. It would be better if you do not change the firmness level too frequently. This bed will give the person sleeping on it the most comfortable sleep that they can have.  

 

This bed also has the capability to reduce the uncomfortable pressure points that can lead to tossing and turning during sleep. It contours to your body, which allows for superior comfort and excellent back support.  

 

The sleep number bed is built for two people because of its ability to adjust either side of the bed to the person’s particular preference. Thus, if two people are sleeping on the bed, they can have one side with a different firmness or softness or even a different elevation than the other side depending on the person’s needs. The numbers of the bed refer to the firmness of the mattress.  

 

A sleep number bed review showed that people, who experienced back pain or other aches and pains in the morning, support the idea that sleeping in this type of bed has reduced their aches and pains. This bed allows a person to have a comfortable night sleep. Most aches and pains experienced by an individual are usually caused by uncomfortable sleeping habits.   

 

The disadvantage though is that the softness or hardness of the bed changes slightly with air temperature and barometric pressure. Thus, if it is raining, the mattress will feel slightly stiffer. If it is clear, the mattress will feel slightly softer.

 

Another disadvantage of this bed that people should know about is that the air mattress used with this bed will naturally lose air over time and air will need to be added to compensate this. Some surveys have shown that some sleep number bed owners have experienced frequent and significant air loss. However, this might be due to faulty air pumps and connections and not merely permeation or air loss.

 

People might also experience a trench in the middle of the bed. This is noticeable when the two chambers of the bed had very different firmness levels. This trench could undermine the bed’s comfort and discourage intimate encounters among couples. 

 

Another disadvantage found during a sleep number bed review is that the price of the bed is quite high. This is due to the technology used in the bed. Consumers should not worry too much about the price as the purchase of this bed also includes a 20-year guarantee. Knowing some of the pros and cons of this bed, the decision to purchase is up to you. 

Benefits of Adding Picture Windows With Your Home Improvement

Any window in your home provides an opportunity to get a glimpse of the outside world but it’s the picture window that offers you a way to bring the best view into your home. A well-designed picture window can offer an unobstructed view of your surroundings – no matter the weather – from the comfort of your home. Majestic view aside there’s also the benefit of boosting the value of your home with new a new picture window – and added market value in this economy is always a plus.

Choosing the Right Picture Window

Most think of the traditional window when this topic comes up in home improvement discussions surrounding window replacement and the addition of more natural light. While a large piece of plate glass is functional, it’s becoming less popular among home owners because of the bland design and the poor insulation. They’re also more fragile than reinforced panes.

Segregated panes that make up a larger picture window are making a comeback as homeowners try to embrace classic architectural designs in newer homes. While offering enhanced aesthetical appeal these windows are also far more sturdy and – should a pane crack, chop or break – easy to replace.

Window manufacturers are also working to enhance the energy efficiency of large picture windows by creating double pane grid designs. This provides the same utility benefit as a common double or triple pane window but on a larger scale. Each individual section has its own packet of air or gas to help reduce heat gain and loss.

Window Replacement

For those that have an existing picture window, it’s best to order a newer design or style to ditch the old plate glass or sectional window that features smaller – though still large – pieces of glass. The energy savings alone will cover the cost of the upgrade over the years. If you live in a cold climate the install will likely payment for itself much faster.

Getting Creative with Window Design

Don’t just base your purchase of a window upgrade on price alone, shooting for the low-budget models to save money. There’s a lot of creative play when it comes to enhancing your windows. If it’s in your budget, consider having custom windows designed to better match the architecture of your home. Likewise you can splurge a little and have the windows built out to create a bay window. While not technically a picture window the bay window can add some functional space to your home while improving the view outside the home.

While it’s not recommended for the DIY lover due to the scale of the job and the size of the windows, you can have a replacement picture window or bay window put in quickly with the right general contractor. Contact a local contractor or specialist window installer to get an estimate on upgrading your home with a new model window.

Overcoming the 3 Worst Fears of Writing Contracts in Real Estate Investing

Contract writing is a paralyzing fear in real estate investing for investors who are buying or selling properties. The usual thought is that if the investor omits something very important, the deal will be lost, may be liable for huge sums of money if the contract doesn’t work, or he will be doing something illegal and not even know it.

Overcoming these fears is easy to achieve but must be worked on in their order of importance to the investor, which can be done in minutes or hours. The result will be a rewarding and long career in real estate investing. The following are ways to help overcome these nagging fears for real estate investors.

1. The fear of omitting something very important in the contract.

Real estate contracting is as ancient as writing and each state has set some standards or the realtors in that state have set contract standards which they use to write both purchase and sale agreements.

An investor can get contracting online, at a local office store or even from a real estate investing guru. It is strongly suggested that you use only contracting approved by your state’s BAR (attorneys association) or your local BOR (Board of Realtors). Generally using the store bought or guru contracts won’t open you to too much liability, but they can have major problems that aren’t obvious until you lose a great deal.

Particularly, guru contracts are sold as protecting the investor and often have separate buy and sell contracts. If these contracts are sent to the seller’s attorney for review, they could lose your deal because they are so onerous. You are better off to control the contract that is standard in your state using clauses or addendums that favor your position.

2. The fear of huge liability if the contract is done improperly.

Unless otherwise stated in the contract, when you are a buyer, your liability is limited to your deposit amount. If you haven’t given a deposit yet, your contract may not be valid in the first place, so always give the minimum deposit the seller will accept. While it is impressive to other investors give to $1 or $10, if you are in competition with another investor who is offering $100, you could lose the deal.

Always put in a clause that your escrow deposit is not due until your inspection period is over and ask for as long an inspection period as possible – with homeowners I ask for and receive 20 to 30 days. This longer inspection period allows me more time to sell the property. You may not be able to use your buyers’ funds to close if he is getting a conventional loan to purchase the property – this is illegal flipping if the closing is not done properly. There are various ways to close the transaction using a cash buyer’s funds.

If you are selling a property, your liability is more extensive because you can face a lawsuit called a “Breach of Contract”. This lawsuit claims that the buyer had a valid contract with you and for whatever reason; you decided not to sell it to him. The simplest way to overcome this potential problem is to have an attorney review your contract and have clauses that protect the closing date, such as, the buyer will have to close on or before a specific date”. If the buyer doesn’t, you have a breach of contract by the buyer but your cure is to the limit of his deposit unless you incurred an additional financial loss in the transaction that didn’t close. Always get as large a deposit from a buyer as possible, usually at least 3% to 5% or a minimum of $2,000.

3. The fear of doing something illegal and not knowing it.

This can be a well founded fear for newbies. It is best resolved by having an attorney, not another investor, review what you are doing. The benefit to the attorney is that you will put him in as the closing agent. He likely will write the contract for you but this can be burdensome if you are meeting with a buyer or seller and you want to close the deal. Always use an attorney who does real estate closings as his main course of business, not a general practitioner. You will discover that while every deal varies slightly, the actual amount of contract clauses that vary from contract to contract are very small.

In summary, your ability to write purchase and sale agreements is very powerful and must be mastered. This first requires you read and understand a standard contract for your state and local municipalities if they are also required. You do not need a realtor to write a contract and it is not illegal for you to write a contract despite what many realtors may tell you. Always have an attorney review what you are doing and pay him by making him the closing agent on the transaction if possible. If the opposing party to the contract is choosing the closing agent, have him shadow the deal and explain that you will use him on the next contract where you control choosing the closing agent.

PET Plastic Containers Vs PVC Plastic Containers – What’s The Difference? And Why You Should Care

Plastics come in many varieties and it can be difficult to figure out which types to use for our various needs. Seemingly similar, different types of plastics vary more than just in their names, but also drastically so when it comes to how they are produced and how they should best be utilized. Ways that may be unseen or unconscious to consumers or customers, can impact the product housed in or around the various types of plastics.

One common type of plastic is Polyvinyl chloride, familiar to many as PVC. This is a cheap plastic that is widely used in construction, and may often times be seen when creating pipes, hoses, cables, and roofing material.

Another type of plastic is called PET. PET, technically called Plyethylene terephthalate, is commonly used in packaging with containers for storage or food. PET is a lightweight and durable and ideal for use around a multitude of products such as food or nonperishable supplies.

Unlike PET, PVC actually breaks down with exposure to UV rays. PVC will break down over time regardless of sun exposure, and it also leaches chemical onto whatever it is in contact with. From the very beginning PVC emits dangerous compounds, and well after it is disposed of the material can still have negative impacts. PVC ends up either in landfills or incinerated. When burned PVC emits hydrogen chloride and dioxin gases that can be very harmful to everything around it.

Since PVC can add chemicals to whatever it comes into contact with, it would not be a safe option when storing or displaying food or edibles. Even products that are not edible may be harmed by the chemical output of PVC, and the product can be changed or damaged over long term exposure to PVC.

PET contains and UV stabilizer that makes it last through contact with the sun and UV rays. PET can be recycled and remade into future plastic containers or plastic items, and can also be remade into various new products such as clothing. PET also has a higher recycling rate than most types of plastics.

The recycling process of PET has minimal impact on the environment, and is very similar to the process behind recycling paper. No harmful gasses are emitted, and the PET containers can be completely remade into more PET containers, eliminating high levels of material loss through the process. Recycling PET is also easy to do, and can be deposited in most neighborhood recycling pickup deposits instead of complicated recycling procedures that can be a hassle.

PET is far more versatile than PVC. PET has no harmful impact on the variety of types of materials that may come into contact with it, whereas PVC should be limited to mainly industrial use in building or construction. PET is also much more environmentally friendly than PVC and can be recycled. PET also has more long term lasting power since it will not harm or alter materials stored in or around it over long periods of time.

Swapping Evaporative Air Conditioning to Reverse Cycle (HVAC) Air Conditioning – A Complete Guide

People often want to know whether they can change their existing ducted evaporative system over to a new ducted reverse cycle (HVAC) air conditioning system by using all the same ductwork and outlets. The simple answer is no. Below is a list of reasons as to why you cannot simply change the system over to become a reverse cycle (HVAC) system.

Firstly, reverse cycle grilles (or outlets) are usually placed near windows and away from the doors. This allows the air to condition the heat/cold that comes in directly through the windows. The airflow for a reverse cycle system should also take the longest route back from the outlet to the return air grille. If an outlet was placed next to a door, the air would simply be sucked back underneath the door towards the return air grille and the room would have hot spots near the window.

The problem with evaporative grilles is that they are usually located by the doorways. The evaporative units airflow should take the longest possible path through a room and out of the window. If they were located right next to a window, the air would simply flow out the window and hot spots would be caused near the doorways and in the far side of rooms.

Due to these reasons it is not advised to place reverse cycle grilles in a same spot where a ducted evaporative grille was previously located. Although it is possible to do it will severely lessen the effectiveness and capacity of the system. The best option is to start fresh and put the new reverse cycle grilles in the correct desired location as required. However, this would mean you would need to patch and paint the holes in the ceiling left by the removal of the old evaporative grilles and this can be a costly job.

Another option would be to add extra grilles as needed. You can consider leaving grilles near the doorways from the evaporative system and add extra grilles by the windows if needed.

Another problem encountered when swapping the systems over is that the old ducting cannot be used. The ducting used for evaporative units is far larger than that required for reverse cycle ducted air conditioners. Evaporative units use ducting around the 16-20 inch mark. This large size duct is used by evaporative air conditioners as the air is extremely fast blowing and it aims to draw in air to the amount of 40 times the cubic area of your house per hour. Reverse cycle ducting is mostly only around the 12 inch mark in diameter. This is because reverse cycle air conditioning is far slower moving than it’s evaporative counterpart.

Evaporative ducting is also usually only slightly if at all insulated. Reverse cycle ducting should always be insulated by a minimum of 2 inches to preserve the cooling/heating and to prevent condensation from occurring.

So if you want to swap your current evaporative system over to a new reverse cycle ducted system, you are best to start from scratch. Be sure to get quite a few quotes for the cost to patch and paint the ceiling before starting any work. And if air conditioning contractors tell you they can simply swap a system over using the existing duct and outlets, ask lots of questions and be wary as they may not be around to help you out once you have paid good money and your system is not working effectively.

In some cases using the existing grilles can be an option, but it would make the system less effective.

How to Clean a Motorcycle Carburetor, The Right Way

I get asked about Carburetor Cleaning regularly both from readers and from friends offline. So I’ve decided to write a definitive guide for cleaning carbs the RIGHT way. So put your tools down for a minute, grab a beer, and give this a read. You might just save yourself a lot of headache and sweat.

Carbs come in many shapes and sizes. Single carbs, dual carbs, racks of 3, 4 or 6, V racks, carbs with ticklers, carbs with accelerators, carbs with asynchronous designs, and carbs that operate vertically. While working on some carburetors is more difficult (due to design) than others, they all share the same basic components, and the process of cleaning those components is generally identical.

BEFORE YOU START

Make sure that dirty carbs are actually your problem. Lots of things can make a bike run poorly or not start. Weak battery, corroded electrics, old spark plugs, bad timing, low compression, mis-adjusted valves, dirty air filter, and plugged exhausts can all cause poor running. I’ll write an article eventually on how to diagnose poor running conditions shortly, but for now – lets just deal with the carbs.

OK, SO YOUR CARBS ARE DIRTY

Once it has been determined that the carbs are the problem it’s time to get to it. Some racks of carbs are easier to remove than others. If you’re working on a newer model bike the rubber boots from the airbox to the carbs and the manifold boots from the carbs to the motor should be relatively soft and pliable. On older bikes however this is rarely the case.

First remove the fuel tank, seat, and side covers. Depending on your model of bike other parts may need to be removed too. For many single cylinder bikes the carb can often be removed without removing any body work at all.

The bike below is a 1983 Yamaha XJ750 Seca with 4 inline Hitachi carburetors

You’ll want to loosen the circle clamps on all of the rubber boots. Sometimes I’ll even take them all right off (carefully, without bending them too badly) so that they aren’t in the way.

Inspect the airbox. On many bikes it is bolted in place to tabs on the frame. Remove those bolts and try to create as much space as possible for the airbox to pull backwards.

Next, put the bike on it’s centerstand and straddle it facing forward. Put your right hand on the right-most carburetor and your left hand on the left-most carburetor and get ready to sweat. Sometimes you’ll be able to pull the carbs straight backwards nice and easy, but that is pretty rare. I usually end up rotating them up then rotating them down as best I can while pulling backwards furiously. This can really take some work and time, especially if you’ve never done it before. In real extreme cases where you simple can’t get the carbs to pull backwards out of the manifold boots I have a couple tips. These tips should only be used in extremely difficult cases when you have been struggling for an hour and simple can’t get the carbs to pull backwards out of the manifold boots.

Tip 1: Ratchet Straps – This is sort of a last resort, but it has worked without fail for me when I’m pooling sweat on the garage floor and the carbs aren’t budging. Wrap a ratchet strap around one of the outer carbs and put the hooks somewhere on the rear of the frame. Then slowly ratchet the carbs right out of the boots. Be careful not to pull them too cockeye’d or you could damage the boots. Attach a second ratchet strap to the other side if necessary. (Note: you can do this in the opposite direction to force carbs back into the boots once they are clean.)

Tip 2: Full Pull! – You should do this before you do the ratchet strap method above. Sit down on your butt along one side of the bike. Wedge one of your feet up between the forks and the front fender, then put both hands on the same outermost carb and PULL PULL PULL! This might not work so well if you’re short! Ha.

Ok, So The Carbs are pulled back

Chances are the airbox boots are all crammed up now. Do your best to rotate the carbs up and out from the boots and pull them out one side of the bike. Sometimes it’s easier to pull the carbs out one side than the other, so have a look to see if there are frame elements, motor elements, or hoses that may block the carbs from coming out on one side.

Also keep note of the throttle cable(s) and choke cable (if there is one). Now may be a good time to loosen the nuts that hold them in place and disconnect them.

Struggle just a couple more minutes wriggling the carbs out the side.

Ok, You have the carbs off the bike

Make sure you brush off any loose dirt or grime, then flip the carbs over and remove the screws from the corners of the carburetor. Some carbs won’t have bolts in the corner and instead have a wire latch over top which can just be forced over.

Remove the bowls.

If the carbs are real gummed up the insides might look like this:

It’s obvious that these carbs are all clogged up. Some carbs might not look so bad, some might be a lot worse. It’s always a mystery what will be inside the bowls.

Now it’s time to remove the floats. It’s generally a good idea to drench everything in carb cleaner (available at any autoparts store). Sometimes the pins will practically fall right out, sometimes they’ll be so stubborn you won’t think they’ll ever come free. But they will! Carefully push on the pin from either side. Sometimes a nail and a gentle tap from a hammer is helpful. **BE CAREFUL**, using force to remove a stuck float pin can break off the pin tower. If they are really stuck and you can’t seem to work them free here are a couple tips.

Tip 1: Heat – Adding a little flame to the float pin towers can help. **Don’t Burn Down Your Garage!!**

Tip 2: Pliers – Using pliers to gently clamp the end of the pin and push it through has worked well for me in the past. **Don’t break the towers!!**

Once the float pin is out you can remove the floats, the float needle, and unscrew the float jet screen.

Set everything aside. Next remove the main jet, pilot jet, and idle jet (if there is one). They should come out easily with a flathead screw driver.

Set them aside.

Next flip the carburetors back over and remove the caps. Underneath the caps is a rubber diaphram with a spring. Sometimes the caps have a tendency to shoot off the top, so be very methodical when removing the screws. Other times the cap tends to stick down until you start to pry at it, then it shoots off, again, just be cautious and don’t loose any parts.

Next you’ll want to gently pull the slides up out of the carburetor body. You can gently pull on the rubber diaphrams, but be very careful not to tear them. If they don’t come up easily stick your finger into the carb intake and push the slide up with your finger. You can also gently pry it with a screw driver (gently). If it doesn’t want to budge don’t force it. Instead finish reading this article and pay attention to the boiling tips further down.

Now your carbs should be pretty well emptied out. If the throttle on the bike moved fluidly and smooth there is little reason to do much to the carb bodies themselves. However, if the trottle was real sticky or frozen there are a few things you can do to free it up. Sometimes just drenching all the throttle components on the carbs and letting it soak is enough, other times it is not. I generally try to break racks of carbs apart. It isn’t often necessary and can be confusing to put everything back together in the right places. Also, the little rubber connector hoses and o-rings have a tendency to crack or leak if you mess with them. If you can’t work the throttle back and forth until its smooth have a look at the boiling tips further down.

Keep it Neat

Organization pays off.

Clean the Main, Idle and Pilot Jets

Hold each jet up to the light and see if you can look through it. The idle and/or pilot jets have extremely small holes so make sure you are looking through them straight. If you can see through the jet it isn’t clogged. There could be a little gunk built up around the edges so spray them down with carb cleaner and let them sit a bit.

If you can’t see through the jet it is clogged and needs to be cleaned. Always try the easiest things first. Here’s an ordered list of a few things you can do to clean the jet.

Blow through it. – Rarely works, but hey, who knows.

Compressed air. – Force 100 pounds into it. Works occasionally. Make sure to hold the jet tightly so it doesn’t go flying across the garage. You might put the jet back into the carb body to hold it in place for this.

Soak it in cleaner. – When I first started cleaning carbs I thought carb cleaner would be the magic answer. It isn’t. In fact, I hardly ever use carb cleaner any more, because it simply doesn’t do a very good job of anything but removing varnish from the bowl and slide. But try this.

Poking it through. – Collect a few different diameters of needle like objects. A wire from a steel bristle brush works well, a bristle from a broom works well, a baby pin, small sewing needle, etc. Very gently try to poke it through the jet. If you are using a metal needle use caution, brass jets can scratch and deform easily.

Boiling! – This works better than anything. Toss the jets into a pot of boiling water and let them bounce around for a couple minutes. When you pull them out blow some compressed air through them and you’ll most likely be good to go.

Some idle jets can be real tricky and never seem like they’ll be cleaned out . . . Just keep working at it, I’ve never met a jet that couldn’t be cleaned.

Cleaning the Choke and Air Mixture Screw

Air mixture screws have a tendency to strip or break. If the carbs were real gummed up you might find that the air screws are stuck. Don’t force them, if they don’t want to come out, just leave them for now. It is fairly rare that these screws will need to be cleaned because they are above the float level. If you can get them out just wipe them down with carb cleaner and spray some through the jet.

Cleaning the Slide and Needle

These are easy to clean. Squirt them with a bit of carb cleaner, wd-40, or anything similar, then wipe them down with a rag. Once the varnish is gone they’re good to go. Sometimes they get heavy varnish on them which I will scratch off carefully with a piece of plastic. Scratching the slide and needle is a BAD thing, use caution.

Cleaning the Carb Bodies

Use the same squirt and wipe method noted above. Most of the time the other pressed jets and passages in the carburetors won’t be clogged. But if the bike has been sitting a real long time with squirrels in the airbox it is certainly possible. Us a compressor to blow some air into every passage you can see. Listen for the air coming out the other side. If no air compressor is available use a can of WD-40 with a straw attachment.

If some of the pressed jets are clogged it can be difficult to open them up. There are a few things you can do.

Carb Dip – Most autoparts stores sell carb dip. It comes in a can similar to a paint can and is a VERY harsh cleaning agent. Soak the entire carbs in this dip. This dip can eat at rubber and plastics if they are submerged for too long, so try and remove everything you can from the carb bodies before soaking them. Once you pull them out swish the carbs around in a bucket of water to clean off the excess dip, then hose them down with WD-40 to get rid of the water.

Boiling in Water – Not many people do this but it is by far the best way of cleaning carburetors. Dropping the carbs into a pot of boiling water will instantly free up stuck slides, throttle plates, and other frozen parts. It will also loosen the dirt and grime clogging up pressed jets and other passages. Just make sure to dry the carbs thoroughly with compressed air or the sun afterwards.

Boiling in Lemon Juice – There is NOTHING BETTER at cleaning carbs than a giant pot of boiling lemon juice. The acidity from the lemons eats through everything; gas varnish, oil build up, dirt, grime, etc. Sometimes I won’t even bother doing anything but this – I’ll just remove the bowls, remove the caps, then drop everything into the pot and let it sit for 20 minutes (rotate them a few times). The one caveat to doing this is that you’ll want to wash the lemon juice off the carbs as soon as you pull them out. So have a bucket of water ready, or a can of WD-40 to hose them down. Also note that the acidity has a tendency to put a dull finish on the aluminum bodies of the carbs. This isn’t a problem in most cases, but if you must have everything shiny be prepared to do a little scrubbing and polishing afterwards. It may sound weird, but trust me, I just saved you LOTS of time. (Most dollar stores sell 1/2 gallon jugs of lemon juice, so buying a few gallons will only cost you $6. Plus you can put it back into the bottles afterwards and save it for next time.)

Cleaning the Bowls

This is pretty straight forward. Use any of the methods above to transform your varnished bowls.

Most carb bowls are simple, just clean them up and they are good to go. But I picked this Hitachi’s for photos because they have a jet built into the bowl. You can see the ‘fifth’ hole along the edge of the bowl, that is actually a thin passage that extends to the bottom of the bowl. This is for the idle jet and is extremely important. If these passages are clogged, the bike won’t stay running, period. Use the same poke, soak, and boiling methods outlined elsewhere in this article. Not all bowls have these passages, only some, if your’s don’t – good for you!

Once Everything is Clean

Now that everything is clean it’s time to put it all back together. Take your time and make sure you put everything back where it came from. WD-40 is your friend. When screwing in the jets don’t over do it, they only need to be seated and snug, do NOT use any force putting the carbs back together.

If the bowl gaskets got goobered up you can put a little RVT on them. So long as the float needles are still in good condition leaky gaskets shouldn’t be an issue. However, prudent carb tinkerers may want to order replacements if necessary.

Once the carbs are back together stuff them back into the bike!

Extra Notes

Rebuild Kits – This guide did not mention rebuild kits until now. Rebuild kits (consisting of new gaskets, jets, needles, etc) can be purchased for nearly any bike, both old and new. 95% of the time these are NOT needed. I have rebuilt enough carbs to block off main street, and only once have I used new parts. ONCE!

Carburetor Adjustment – Carburetor adjustment, setup, jetting, and synchronizing is a whole encyclopedia waiting to happen. Those topics are not covered in this article, but I will address them in future articles.

Carburetor Polishing – External carb asthetics will be important to some, and not to others. Cleaning is all I am covering here, this will be addressed in the future.

Work Space – Make sure you have lots of space to keep organized. I also like to work on a wooden surface because it absorbs the spilled gas and cleaners rather than pooling.

That’s it! You’re Done!

I’ll continue to write a couple more related articles about diagnosing carburetion issues as well as the proper way to adjust, jet, and tune your carbs.

Candle Making Soy Wax Manufacturers

Candles had been made from tallow for centuries. Beeswax candles were also available, but the beeswax was much more expensive. Paraffin wax was patented in 1876. It wasn’t until the late 20th century, however, that wax was made from soybean oil.

At present, there are a limited number of soy wax primary manufacturers. This article will focus on two: SoyaWax International, Inc., and Elevance Renewable Sciences, Inc.

Michael Richardson, patent-holder for the process of making soy wax, runs a company in Cedar Rapids, Iowa called SoyaWax International. It sells two soybean wax blends:

The first, Phytowax C-1, has a melting point of 130 F (54.4 C); it is formulated to adhere to the sides of containers. The second product, Phytowax PV-1, shrinks just enough so that it can be easily removed from votive molds. Its melting point is 155 F (68.3 C).

Cargill, who purchased the intellectual rights to Richardson’s patent, started a company called Elevance Renewable Sciences, which is headquartered in Bolingbrook, Illinois. They sell soybean wax and soybean wax blends using the brandname “Nature Wax.” Elevance sell their waxes both domestically and internationally. In the following list of products, add “BK” suffix after the product number would indicate that the product is supplied as a “block;” adding a “CT” suffix would indicate cut or flaked product:

13C2000 NatureWax C-1 Container Wax (25054) is a soy blend which is to be used for container candles. It has a melting point of 124-130 F (51.1-54.4 C) This product is available internationally.

13C1120 NatureWax C-3 also has a melting point of 124-130 F (51.1-54.4 C) This mix of hydrogenated vegetable glycerides with alpha-monoglycerides and sorbitan tristearate is formulated to be used in container candles and as a softener for pillar candles. This product is also available for international delivery.

Elevance sells five soy base stocks with different melting points. These are formulated for container candles and can also be used as a softener for pillar candles.

13C1040- NatureWax 97MP Soy Base Stock; its melting point is 97 F (36.1 C)

13C1400 – NatureWax S-113 Soy Base Stock; its melting point is 113 F (45 C)

13C1510 – NatureWax S-118 Soy Base Stock; its melting point is 118 F (47.8 C)

13C1590 – NatureWax S-128 Soy Base Stock; its melting point is 128 F (53.3 C)

13C1090 – NatureWax S-130 Soy Base Stock; its melting point is 130 F (54.4 C)

Elevance sells three base stocks which can be used as hardeners or as fragrance stabilizers, though their main intended use is for coating boxes. All three have melting points of 155 F (68.3 C)

12C1020 – NatureWax 155 MP Soy Base Stock

12C1420 – NatureWax X-155 Base Stock blend

12C1430 – NatureWax X-155 Base Stock 155 MP w/ MS (soy blend with Dimethylpolysiloxane)

Elevance also supplies Palm and Soy/Cotton base stocks.

This article has focused on two of the primary manufacturing companies of soybean wax. There are a variety of other soy wax manufacturing companies who do not do primary manufacturing. That is they do not extract the oil from the soybean. Instead they would start with soybean wax as a raw material to make their own wax blends.

The Roulette Betting Strategies That Work For Me

Roulette is one of my favorite casino games which able to make me some winning money especially from online casinos. Although I did not win at all my bets, but I am able to exit with net winnings almost daily by using some of strategies I picked from free casino eBook with titled “Roulette Winning Betting Strategies Revealed”. Let me share one of the strategies that work for me.

I was invited to review the eBook with titled “Roulette Winning Betting Strategies Revealed” written by Kevin Belington. I found that it is one of the best free e-books that disclose most of betting strategies taught in other casino ebooks that sell for money. Kevin, the author of the book had explained the common strategies used by most casino players and how these strategies may cause risks if the outcomes are not results as expected. Then, he explained how he modified the common strategies so that the strategies work best for him and help him to win at casinos consistently.

I try to test each strategy at the online casino recommended by the author since I am also a registered player for that online casino. Basically, the betting strategies work find as the strategies had tried to take into consideration of various outcome possibilities. But, I found that not all the strategies suit my playing characteristics. And, these strategies will even work best for me with a minor modification. Let review one of the strategies of my best pick from the book:

64% Column/Line Betting Strategy

This strategy required you to wait for 4 consecutive Roulette’s outcomes to fall on the same column or line before you place your bet on the two columns which are not the outcomes. You need to triple your betting amount on each loss and you need to take the loss if the next 3 consecutive outcomes continue to fall on the same column as the last 4 runs when you start your bet.

How I Implement It

Although the 4 consecutive outcomes fall on the same column or line are common for Roulette, and most of time, I will be able to make winning within the next 3 runs. But, I would like to play safe and take care of the worst scenario I ever met such 8 consecutive outcomes on the same column/line and 6 consecutive outcomes on the same columns with 2 turn of zero; I always wait for 6 consecutive outcomes to happen on the same column/line before you start my bet; and I make sure my bankroll have enough money to cover to next 3 runs when there is a need to increase my betting amount if I hit the loses.

By tightening the condition from 4 consecutive outcomes to 6 consecutive outcomes that fall on the same column/line before I start my betting actions, I will need to wait at a long time for the condition to meet, but it helps me to cover for the worst condition and minimize the risk of losing my money.

Summary

The free ebook, “Roulette Winning Betting Strategies Revealed” basically is a good casino playing guide, but you need to use the strategies smartly and implement them in the best way that work best for you.

Importance of Using Rubber Mats at Industrial Floors

Safety and security are two important factors in the workplace. Most of the business owners always try to keep their employees safe. Everyone can witness liquid, grease and chemicals on industrial floors. Accidents are quite common due to the slippery nature of cement floors. Falling or tripping can cause huge problems. They can indirectly affect production in the business, spending money due to medical issues and loss of reputation. Slippery surfaces can also lead to machine destruction as well. To keep all the situations under control, business sectors are using rubber mats.

What Make Rubber Flooring Surface Popular-

There are various reasons behind using rubber matting solutions. In the earlier times, people use rubber flooring only at home. However, nowadays, they are getting a better place at the workplaces. Here are some of the advantages of using these underfoot surfaces-

1. Available in Various Colors-

One of the greatest advantages of using mats made with rubber is that they are available in various color and texture. The commercial clients can choose any variety depending upon their requirements. They are custom-made depending on utilities. The dark-colored mats are in great demand among the commercial clients.

2. Anti-slip in Nature-

The rubber flooring accessories are anti-slip in nature. They offer better grip to the feet. They reduce accidents. Employees can work safely on the cement floor without worrying about falling down and breaking legs.

3. Easy to Install and Clean-

Rubber flooring items are easy to install and maintain. Grease, chemicals, and acids cannot affect rubber underfoot surfaces. They take very less time for installation. Business owners install them at walking pavements, working areas, store rooms and even over the stairs.

4. Low in Price-

This is one of the biggest advantages of using rubber mats on the floors. These products are affordable. Even you can also get them at discounts from reliable sources.

These above points show some of the features that generally motivate customers to use rubber matting products. Individuals use them for multiple uses. The electrical mats are very popular in these days as they are shock resistant and long-lasting. Hospitality and catering mats are also gaining importance in the market since, they are resistant to chemicals and oil. When you are buying these products, make sure that they are from the reputed companies. You can search online to find the most reliable company that manufacture and supply these underfoot accessories.

Benefits of Hiring a Bond Cleaner for Carpet Cleaning

Bond cleaners can be called in when you choose to relocate to another house. They have a long list of services that you can enjoy at fair prices, and carpet cleaning is surely one of them. Why to hire a bond cleaning service for thorough carpet cleaning? Your will read on this in the following paragraphs.

Dusty carpets have adverse affects on people with respiratory conditions like asthma or snoring, American Lung Association says. Therefore, carpets must stay dust-free at all times.

Elimination of pollutants

Pollutants like cockroach allergens, pet dander, dust and lead can be found in dirty carpets. These pollutants produce toxic gases, which come out of carpets as you carry out routine activities like vacuuming. As a result, the toxic gases end up contaminating air in your house, which makes your kids or pets sick.

Professional bond cleaners get these pollutants removed with the help of special shampoos and advanced vacuum cleaners. Do not worry even if the pollutants are deeply trapped in the fibers. After all, they are professionals. They can solve this problem in a jiffy.

Removal of dust mites

Dust mites are microscopic creatures, which are difficult to be noticed. That is the reason most homeowner are oblivious to presence of dust mites in their residence. So, the best bet is to get a bond cleaner treat the infestation to make your carpeting clean. Dust mites leave body fragments and faces on carpets.

Your kids and pets may inhale dust mites when these creatures fly off carpets during vacuuming or walking. Bond cleaners take advantage of a method known as steam cleaning for killing off dust mites. This procedure uses high temperature to kill dust mites. This is a specialty of bond cleaners, meaning these procedures cannot be done with DIY tips or tricks.

Prevention of mold growth

Carpets in areas that have high levels of humidity are likely to develop mold because of moisture. For the annihilation of moisture, bond cleaners use high-end drying tools. The purpose of eliminating moisture is to prevent the development of mold in order to save you from health problems.

Prior to giving the keys of your hose back to your tenant, we recommend that you try out the service of a bond cleaner for having your home carpets cleaned. In the end, this will ensure your tenant returns you the full amount of bond. Hopefully, these three benefits of trying out the service of a bond cleaner are enough to convince you.

Shag Pile Rugs – Pros and Cons

If you are thinking of purchasing shag pile rugs to go somewhere in your home they can make for an extremely nice feel and can also look great in a variety of styles. However, as with any other type, there are also some disadvantages when compared to a rug made from other varieties of piles. For this reason, we have identified some of the most common pros and cons when it comes to buying a shaggy rug. Hopefully the information supplied will help you to decide whether they will be the right option for your home.

Positives.

Far and away the main advantage of purchasing a shaggy variety of rug is the overall quality and texture of the numerous options that are available. The feel of these underfoot is hard to match and they can be perfect for helping you to unwind and relax after a long and stressful day at work. You will find that you will be able to purchase a rug to fit in with pretty much any colour scheme in your home so you will not be limiting your options by deciding shaggy is the one for you. They can help to give a stylish look to a room and can either be used to create a stunning focal point or to simply compliment the rest of the decor.

Negatives.

Choosing to buy this type may mean that you end up spending more than a lot of other varieties, the main reason for this is due to the extra material that is needed to manufacture them. If you want one made from a higher quality material such as suede or leather then expect the price to reflect that as well. A shaggy rug will also be more difficult to keep clean than one made with shorter piles. The obvious reason for this is that dirt and dust can get stuck deep into the fibres meaning it may not necessarily all be picked up by simply running the vacuum over it. They are also much more prone to staining if anything is spilt on it, again due to the long piles that it is made from. For this reason, if anything is spilt then you must make sure that it is cleared immediately.

Purchasing any type of rug can be a good way of giving your home a new look and there are plenty of stunning varieties you can choose from. Shag pile rugs can be perfect for achieving a luxury feel in the living room or bedroom but you may have to pay more and also clean it much more thoroughly. If you need any advice about what is most suited for you then contact a professional who will be happy to help.

Carpet Pile Crushing – 2 Ways to Recover Flattened Carpet Pile Tufts

Recovering Pile Crush

Unsightly carpet pile crushing, or localised flattened pile, spoils the look of a carpet; particularly if you like to move your furniture around occasionally. Have a go at restoring the pile using some moisture, with a little cold or heat applied. These tips work best on a wool pile carpet, although they are still worth trying out on a synthetic pile, such as nylon or polypropylene.

1) Place some ice cubes over the indentations for a short while and allow them to melt. Then, when the carpet is almost dry, gently tease back the pile with a small spoon, coin or the tips of a fork.

2) Place a damp cloth over the indentations. Hold a hot steam iron a few inches above it to allow the moisture to work its way into the pile. Do not let the iron touch the carpet pile. Alternatively, use a hair dryer to warm the pile. While it is still warm, use a spoon, coin or the tips of a fork to gently tease the pile upright.

The way this works is that the carpet pile fibres slowly accept the moisture which helps them to relax, recover and remember their original shape. This then allows you to re-position them. If these procedures don’t recover the flattened area fully, it could be that the backing has stretched and sunk down into the underlay. If this is the case, you have no way of getting the surface level again.

Preventing Pile Crush

There are steps you can take to help to reduce the severity of future carpet pile crushing.

1) Make sure to buy a new, dense underlay (US: padding) at the same time as installing a new carpet.

Choose an underlay or padding that is reasonably firm and of uniform construction; such as a crumb rubber, high density sponge rubber or compact PU foam. Bear in mind that the soft waffle rubber underlays -the type with ripples or a knobbly back and large air pockets – may feel good to walk on but they can compress under concentrated pressure and not recover.

2) Consider the use of furniture cups (glides) under furniture legs and periodically move your furniture a couple of inches each way to give the carpet pile a rest.

3) If practical, think about buying a wool carpet with a tight, dense, twist or double ply pile. Wool is naturally crimped and recovers well from compression.

For the best performance, buying a good quality carpet with a densely constructed pile will always be superior to a loosely constructed and ‘open’ pile.

Different Types of Body Art

These are the different types of body art:

Jewelry is the most common type. This is a temporary type which almost everybody wears (sometimes) like a ring or necklace.

Tattoos are a type of body art which is permanent. Tattoos are created by colored materials inserted beneath the skins surface. The most common reasons to get tattooed are:

  • Wanting to show your individuality and uniqueness
  • Belonging to a group that has tattoos
  • Pleasing your partner
  • Identifying with a (known for tattoos) subculture

Piercings are a temporary type (which may leave a scar when removed). Body piercing is the creation of an opening in the human body in which jewelry can be worn and the word piercing refers to this opening. The most common piercing is an earring, but you can get a piercing in almost everybody part of your body.

Nail art is another temporary type which is applied on your nails. It is really nice and affordable. It exists of (colourful) decorations on your (natural or fake) nails. It can be anything from stones and sparkles to tiny feathers.

Body paint is also a temporary type. It is painted on to the skin, and only lasts for several hours.

Nowadays body painting is becoming very popular in the use of TV an film projects, advertising, media, sporting, modeling events, runway, and much more.

Airbrush is a temporary type as well. Ink is sprayed on to the skin by an artist (sometimes through a stencil). The resulting design usually mirrors the look of a real tattoo, without any pain. If you use the best inks, the tattoo can last up to at least two weeks.

Henna is another temporary type. Henna the paste of a flowering plant which is used for body (and fingernails) paint and hair dye, especially in various festivals and celebrations. The paste is left on the skin for a few hours to overnight and the stain lasts a few days to a month. How long it will last depends on how long it is allowed to stay on the skin, the quality and the individual skin type.

Tooth Art is also a type of body art. The are different types of tooth art, some are permanent, some are temporary:

  • you can replace your tooth (or teeth) with (a) gold one(s)
  • you can get a (removable) cap for one tooth
  • you can get a (removable) grill for all of you (upper)teeth
  • you can get a diamond into one tooth (or in more teeth)

Scalpelling is a type of body art, which procedure is similar to piercing and it is also for the creation of decorative perforations through the skin and other body tissue. It is most commonly used as a replacement for or enhancement of ear piercings.

Implants are a temporary type (which may leave a scar when removed). Implants are devices placed under the skin for decorative purposes. You can get them in different shapes through an incision.

Branding is a permanent type of body art in which a mark (usually a symbol or pattern), is burned into the skin,

with the intention of creating a scar. This is performed using a hot or very cold branding iron.

Another permanent type is Scarification. This involves etching, scratching, or some sort of superficial incision or cutting as a permanent body modification, etching pictures, words or designs into the skin. During this process, scars are formed by cutting the skin.

Differences Between Engineer Grade, High Intensity Prismatic, and Diamond Grade Reflective Sheeting

Question: What is the difference between Standard Reflective (Engineer Grade or Type I), and High Intensity (Type III) and Diamond Grade (Type XI) reflective sign material?

Answer: Engineer Grade Reflective Sheeting typically meets ASTM D4956 Type 1 standards and is an enclosed film or lens using glass beads or prismatic optical technology.

This material is specified for use on non-critical street and road signs such as parking signs or way-finding signs. It has less reflectivity than the other types mentioned in the original question. Standard colors are white, yellow, red, blue, green, and brown.

Engineer grade reflective sheeting is also used often for reflective stickers and decals, as it is printable both with digital and screen printing methods. It is also cut-table using a die cutter or a vinyl plotter, which makes it useful for creating reflective decals that are cut to a specified shape.

Engineer grade reflective vinyl utilizes and aggressive acrylic adhesive which makes it difficult to remove. Use of heat from a heat gun or hair dryer will aid in the removal of EG reflective sheeting, but often the vinyl will separated from the adhesive, and it becomes necessary to use a glue remover to soften and remove the adhesive.

Most EG reflective films have a 5-7 year outdoor durability warranty, and are not considered a “long-term use” material.

High Intensity Prismatic (HIP) Sheeting meets ASTM requirement standards for D4956-09 Type III and Type IV, as well as ASTM 4956-07 Type X. It is a non-metallized micro prismatic lens reflective sheeting that is used mainly for reflective traffic and road signs, barricades or other road construction zone devices, and traffic delineators such as cones or barrels.

HIP sheeting is highly reflective, and it’s durable topcoat protects signs and other traffic control devices against scratches and abrasion. Not only is it highly reflective at night, it also commands attention during the day as well.

HIP Reflective Sheeting is used for more permanent traffic signs, work zone devices, etc., and comes in white, yellow, red, orange, blue, green, and brown.

The manufacturing process for HIP sheeting is also considered to be more “green” as it produces 97% fewer VOC emissions than engineer grade reflective sheeting, and 72% less energy to manufacture. However, the reflectivity value stands alone as a better reason to use HIP.

Finally, HIP reflective sign materials will last longer than its EG reflective film counterpart. This material is considered to be mid to long-range durability, and typically will last about 10 years.

Finally, Diamond Grade Reflective Sheeting (DG3) is a full cube prismatic reflective sheeting that returns almost 60% of the available light to vehicle drivers which is about double what HIP reflective sheeting reflects. DG3 reflective sheeting meets the specifications of ASTM Type XI standard.

It is likely with pending legislation in the US, that this material will be required to replace many existing signs. Currently all new “critical” traffic control signs (such as Stop signs, speed limit signs, etc.) are required to utilize this sheeting.

Similar to the other two sheetings aforementioned, diamond grade reflective sheeting has a pressure sensitive adhesive and is applied to (typically) alodized or anodized aluminum sheeting either with a hand roller or a mechanical squeeze roll laminator/applicator.

This material can be decorated either using screen printing or by using transparent film that comes in various highway sign colors.

DG3 sheeting was engineered to reflect the newer headlights in late-model automobiles, as well as to help older drivers (like me) with greater luminescence, as well as truck drivers whose lights are able to pick up signs that utilize DG3 better and at greater distances.

Available stock colors include white, yellow, orange, red, green, blue, and brown. Another color, fluorescent yellow-green, is also available and is used primarily in school zones, and has superior luminescence both during the daytime and night