Bearded Dragon Diets – Three Important Things To Remember

One of the most vital parts of giving proper care to a bearded dragon is ensuring that it is getting enough nourishment through proper diet. Here are some of the tips that you can consider to make sure that your beardie is eating the right foods that will make them healthy:

1. Insects and animals – pet reptiles love to eat insects and animals. Some of the great selections of insects for your pet beared dragon are the following:

  • Crickets – it is advisable to give hatchlings some "pinhead" crickets because these are smaller and easier to chew for them. However, for adult bearded dragon, full sized crickets are best to offer. Feeder crickets contain 69% moisture, 1% ash, 21% protein, 3% carbohydrates, and 6% fat. To ensure more nutritional value, it would be great if you will throw away some fruits or vegetables for these crickets to eat before actually serving them to your pet. With this your pet beardie can receive more nutrients and vitamins that their body needs. Crickets to be fed to your lizard can be bred but it is not actually a great move. You can bulk order 500 crickets online for around $ 21 which is a wiser choice since you do not have to go through the hard work of breeding crickets. These 500 crickets can be kept in a ventilated plastic storage bin until they are all fed to your lizard.
  • Roaches – another great food items for your bearded dragon are roaches particularly dubia. This food item for your pet contains 61% moisture, 28% protein, 2% ash, 3% carbohydrates and 6% fat. It is more expensive to feed your reptile with roaches compared with crickets because only reptile specialty stores offer these feeders roaches.
  • Mealworms and superworms – prolific mealworm is second most popular food for lizards. Mealworms contain 63% moisture, 1% ash, 19% protein, 14% fat and 3% carbohydrates. Superworms are more recommended for larger lizards.

2. Limit the fruits intake – bearded dragon is omnivore. Sometimes, it is good to mimic diet in the wild so it would be great to give vegetables and some fruits to your bearded dragon. Some of the best fruits and vegetables for them are carrots, turnip greens, strawberries, dandelion greens, blueberries and tomatoes.

However, it is advisable to limit the percentage of these foods intake. Fruits and vegetables must only be 25% of the overall mix of foods and it must not go beyond 10 percent of the whole diet of your bearded dragon.

3. Commercial diets – giving commercial diets mixture like Rep-Cal Maintenance Formula Bearded Dragon Food (6 oz) and Zoo Med Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food (20 oz) are also advisable. These commercial diets are good for the lizard since it contains lots of the fruits and vegetables mentioned above plus great deal of nutritional supplements and vitamins.

However, there are instances wherein the beardie does not eat the commercial diet foods immediately so what you can do is moist it a bit or mix it with green vegetables and fruits until they get used to it.

These are some details that you should remember when it comes to the diet of your reptile It is also advisable to consult veterinarian first so you can have proper background and knowledge about your dearest pet. Giving them the right kinds of foods will help them grow healthy and active.

If you are really an enthusiastic individual and pet loving owner, you must read more details about Bearded Dragon diets . It will give you all information that you need to know about your pet.

Common Defects Found in Timber From Timber Merchants and Their Causes

We’ve all heard the horror stories of timber arriving and only half of it being usable. We thought we’d have a quick look at some of the reasons timber can be defective.

Cupping.

Cupping is literally when tangential-cut boards experience shrinkage due to the growth rings swelling faster at the heart, causing them to bow. Radial-cut boards are therefore a safer bet as their shrinkage will be less noticeable.

Knots.

Knots are often a good indicator of the quality of the timber. The fewer knots, the higher the grade of timber. Knots are evidence of where trees have started to grow branches that got broken off (branch fail!). Knots only tend to dramatically affect the strength of the timber if they are “dead knots”, or knots that have become loose.

Shrinkage.

As the cause of cupping mentioned above, shrinkage occurs as timber continues to lose moisture content. The drying process increases timber strength, but continued drying often leads to shrinkage.

Bowing.

Imagine a sagging shelf. Incorrect storage or even the board’s own weight if ill-supported can cause gravity to pull it down in the middle.

Splitting.

Like the fraying ends of cloth, splitting starts at the end grain and carries on through the board.

Shakes.

When enormous pressure builds up under the earth, fault lines are present where the earth’s tectonic plates slip past each other due to huge pressures. In trees, when growing (either non-uniformly, or sometimes due to frost) or seasoned, the release of internal stresses, and subsequent “crack!” result in shakes. Shakes can go all the way through the diameter of a tree, making a lot of its wood hard to use. It’s not always apparent until sawing that this fault exists.

This is by no means a comprehensive list of timber defects, but covers a few of the most common you may come across.

Minimising Wastage

Of course, the more timber you have that can be used, the less wastage there is and the further your money goes. Timber that consistently suffers from any of the above defects delivered time and time again is going to give any company a bad name.

Some merchants will simply ship you out what’s in stock, no matter what state it’s in. Merchants that commonly do this aren’t usually concerned with repeat business and you might find you have a hard time getting things rectified, with staff not wanting to know.

A merchant that prides itself on delivering quality timber will have rigorous quality control procedures and mechanisms in place. These should include the timber merchant company buyers visiting the sawmills that the timber is imported from and hand-selecting the timber that they know their clients will be able to use.

Because this is a time-intensive process, prices may be a little higher from a reputable timber merchant, but you’ll be able to use 99% of the timber you receive, rather than 50-60% in some poor cases, for which you’ll end up paying more in the long run in time and money.

Three Ways to Build a Motorcycle

Some people build custom bikes because they are cheaper than buying one. Others just want the I-built-that feeling as they look at it. Still others might want customization that they can not get in an "off the shelf" model.

When someone decides to build a motorcycle, there are three paths to take depending on budget, mechanical skill, design aims, and past building experience. Those paths are custom bike kits, a rolling chassis, and building the whole thing from a collection of motorcycle parts.

Custom Bike Kits

The simplest choice for someone who has never built a bike before is to try one of the many custom bike kits out there. You get a box that has everything you need to build the bike from the ground up except the paint.

Kits are great for first-time builders. If you can follow instructions, you end up with a bike put together with your own hands. You do not have to worry about picking the wrong parts or whether two pieces will work together. You will make mistakes along the way, but they will tend to be safe mistakes that will not ruin the build.

The biggest downside is the cost. This is perhaps the most expensive way to build a custom bike. You are also limited as to how much customization you can do. Sure you can swap out the included parts with others of your choice, but that means throwing away pieces you've already paid for.

Rolling Chassis

A rolling chassis is a partially assembled bike that you can customize. It includes the frame, handlebars, wheels, gas tank, and other basic parts. You need to add an engine and a transmission then finish it off with custom pieces.

This is a good middle-of-the-road choice. A rolling chassis is cheaper than one of the kit bikes while keeping the advantage of pre-selected parts that work together. Since all you have is the undering framework, you still have lots of customization options.

Building a bike from a rolling chassis requires more skill on your part, since you are going to have to choose the other parts yourself.

A variation on the rolling chassis is to take an existing bike, cut it down to the frame, so producing your own chassis. A used bike will probably cost less than a rolling chassis and you will be removing the parts that have seen the most wear and tear such as the engine.

Building from Scratch

The ultimate in a custom bike is one that you select all the motorcycle parts yourself. The bike becomes a true expression of your personality because every nut and bolt was hand selected. Needless to say this build is beyond most first-timers and even most second-timers.

You can either go cheap, cannibalizing parts from junk bikes, or expensive, buying high end custom chopper parts. This is definitely a blank canvas and the ultimate challenge for the bike builder.

Eldest Child Syndrome – Are You What Your Parents Have Made You?

Do you have a people pleaser personality? Have you ever been in a situation where you begin to wonder whether other people’s expectations of you exceed your ability or willingness to deliver? Of course you have! Silly question – unless you’re one of those super-humans who know how to say no without saying no.

BIRTH ORDER AND SELF

Thing is, there’s a limit to what you can do, isn’t there? I’m one of the sandwich generation so I have both young grandchildren for whom I care twice a week whilst my daughter teaches, and parents, with various health issues, who also require a degree of support. In addition, I job-share with my husband – that’s how we make our living – and I write.

When I went down with ‘Female Flu’ a couple of weeks ago (so much worse than the Man Flu variety, because you have to keep going) I managed to keep most of the balls in the air, but some simply had to be dropped. So when I found myself expected to take on a family commitment at the weekend when I might, otherwise, have given myself some me-time to recharge my batteries, I wasn’t exactly delighted. I know some people know how to say no without saying no. I’m simply not one of them. Besides, I’m in that unenviable position of being a firstborn child.

SIBLING POSITION

According to the Wikipedia website, one of the first people to suggest that birth order has an effect on personality was an Austrian psychiatrist, Alfred Adler. A contemporary of Sigmund Freud and Carl Jung, he argued that the way in which each of us tackles the major aspects of life – friendship, love and work – is greatly influenced by our birth order in the family.

Now I know there are those who passionately believe in first child syndrome and others who feel there’s nothing in it. Advocates identify the following traits in the eldest child in a family, by saying they are:

  1. High achievers
  2. Good leaders
  3. Conscientious
  4. Self-sufficient
  5. Perfectionists
  6. Eager to please
  7. Have high expectations of themselves
  8. Feel responsible for the welfare and harmony of the family
  9. Low self-esteem (because they can’t live up to expectations)
  10. Sensitive and in need of constant assurance

PEOPLE PLEASER?

Do you – if you are a firstborn child – adhere to those characteristics? Do you, for instance, have a people pleaser personality? Have you high expectations of yourself? Are you in constant need of assurance that you’re fulfilling what’s expected of you?

To my mind, there are arguments for and against. The gap between sibs must play a part, surely? If the eldest is at school, or has left home before the next one arrives, what then? The eldest would have been an only child prior to reaching school age and would, in effect, continue in that vein. And what if there’s a different combination of genders? Say a girl followed by several boys. Or vice versa: a couple of girls followed by a single boy? I can’t believe that the same principles hold for all scenarios.

ARE ALL ELDEST CHILDREN HIGH ACHIEVERS?

It seems to be widely accepted that the first baby to be born into a family will grow up with a tendency to be analytical, methodical and high achieving. Whether every firstborn adheres to these attributes is debatable, not least because as a firstborn, myself, I show none of these traits. Creative, naturally flexible and spontaneous (though I’ve disciplined myself to be orderly where to be otherwise causes me grief) my only achievement was a No. 4 bestseller – and that crept up on me unawares! The familyrappwebsite continues, with the following statement this child values control and once again this is the very opposite of my personality. Perhaps there’s something my parents aren’t telling me, and I’m not actually the eldest child in our family?

RESPONSIBLE I have certainly never had any desire to be a leader of anything whatever! As an author my interests and pursuits are those of an introvert. I could, however, be described as self-sufficient, am conscientious, a perfectionist and have high expectations of myself – especially when it comes to feeling responsible for the welfare and harmony of my family. The sticking plaster mentality is probably true of many women. For me it’s – well – sort of stuck into my personality. If someone’s hurt or in need, I suppose I see myself as the one who has to tend and cover the wound!

Which is why I find it so difficult to say no and mean no. It doesn’t live up to people’s expectations of me, you see. Nor, of course, my own.

UNDERSTANDING SIBLING RIVALRY

I suspect that the whole eldest child syndrome is, actually, the result of how firstborns in the family are treated, and what expectations are made of them. ‘Now you be a good boy/girl, and look after your little brother/sister’ is the usual mantra. My parents told me – on the one occasion I tried to stick out for something I believed in that went right against what they were asking of me – that my acquiescence had been taken as read. They simply never expected me to oppose them and were shocked and hurt that I should do so.

All of which leads me to believe that eldest child syndrome is less to do with the innate personality of a first born child, and more to do with conditioning by parents and other adults. Perhaps if we take a look at middle child syndrome next week that will reveal more?

Scrap Copper: 5 Best Places To Find Scrap Copper

Copper is in a lot of places you might have never suspected. It is one of the most valuable scrap metals on the market. This can be a very lucrative business for the right person. It is also a way to make a little cash while also helping to cut down on environmental waste. You can find copper hidden in a variety of places. Most often though it is in full view, found in things that you never would have imagined. Knowing where to look will help you in your recovery efforts. Below you will find five of the best places to look for scrap copper.

1. In household fittings. This is especially true of older homes. Pipes and other types of plumbing will have copper in them. Be warned however it is illegal to take the copper from a house you do not own. You can safely get them from demolition sites and if someone is remodeling and have thrown them out.

2. Appliances used to have a lot of copper. Not so much now but there is still quite a bit in them. The older the appliance the more copper is in them. Washing machines, old refrigerators, dryers, microwaves all have copper coils and wires. With air conditioners and refrigerators it is dangerous to remove the copper unless you know how to avoid releasing the toxic gasses that are used in them.

3. If you find a house that is being demolished you can get the wiring. Once striped of the insulation it will yield quite a bit of copper. Although most electricians may have beaten you to it. They are in a unique position to get at the copper first. Still a lot of it gets thrown out so check remodeling and demo sites regularly.

4. Finding old copper statues and other household items like decorations can also be a good source for copper reclamation. Things like teakettles, pots, spigots and even beverage dispensers can yield enough copper to make it worth your while. One great place to find things like this is yard sales and thrift stores. You can buy them for a really cheap price most often less than they will be worth at a recycling shop.

5. Cars are also a great place to look for scrape metal of all types. If you take apart an engine you will find a lot of copper has been used in there. The radiator coils and heating cores are also a good source of copper. You can get trace amounts of the stuff from the onboard computers as well.

You see it is all in what you know. Like did you know that not only could you find copper in pc’s but also gold. And that is a great haul seeing as how much it is going per ounce. But that is a topic for another article.

How to Build a Raft

Who can forget Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn's raft? Is not it amazing that two young kids know how to build a raft? Is building a raft really easy that even children like Tom and Huck can do it?

Here are the instructions on how to build a simple raft:

1. Collect all the materials needed in building a raft.

Gather seven to eight logs. As much as possible the logs should be of the same size in length and thickness. The more they look alike the better the output of the raft would be. The base logs should at least be 12 feet in length and with diameter of 12 inches. Two or three support logs would be necessary for support in the locking system of the raft. The supporting logs should be at least seven to eight feet long and have a diameter of at least four to six inches.

A rope is also needed in order to tie the logs together.

2. Bring all materials near the shore before construction.

Create an outline on how to build the raft and arrange all the materials near the shore. Begin by cutting out the dove-tail notch on each end of the base logs. The notches at the bottom should be wider than the notches at the top. The depth of the notches should at least be two inches and the width should be at least four to six inches at the bottom. Make sure that the notches would suit the dimensions of the support log.

Afterwards, cut and shape the support logs with three sides that would match the notches. Carefully measure the cutting and be precise.

3. Find a place where it is easy to launch the raft.

For raft launching, place the constructed raft in a location where it would be easy to push the raft to the water. Once that matter is figured out, bringing the logs together (side to side). Arrange in a straight line the notches. After this, lock the notches with the support logs.

Then, tie down the supports of the raft. Glue can be used to add strength to the raft. A niche could be added to act as a controlling wheel and this can be placed on the raft's rear end.

To create a dry footing for the raft's floor, add some bush. Also, hooks can be added on the raft's surface to tie down possible luggage during long trips. After these finishing touches, building a raft is already done.

In building a raft, the cost is not an issue. Logs can be found lying about in one's area. Rope and other materials are sometimes available in the house and can be bought at reasonable price. That's why Huck and Tom were able to sail with a raft. All they have is the skill on how to build a raft and the materials they got for free.

Your Guide to an Efficient Filing System

Your Guide to Filing

An efficient filing system has become critical, but still, more often than not, filing systems are accepted without consideration to WHAT is being stored, WHY it's been stored, WHERE and HOW it's been stored. You need to ensure resources are not wasted by replacing your filing system just for replacement sake; it may well be that your current filing system will meet your required criteria by adopting different soft folder and indexing formats.

Many filing organizations will recommend replacing your current system with space efficient filtering systems without consideration to the filing process.

Filing Facts

The freedom of Information Act and the Data Protection Act has made a huge impact on the way records are stored.

Certain types of records have to be stored by law for certain periods of time.

The amount of paper and records stored by organizations is increasing every year.

Misplaced or lost records cost many organizations a substantial amount of money through lost time looking for them. Some types of records will also incur an organization a heavy fine if the record can not be produced on demand.

Clear indexing and identifiable records will speed up the retrieval process for when the file is needed – not when it is too late.

An ineffective filing system will take up more floor space costing the organization more money through floor space rates.

An efficient filing system will save time, space and money making your organization run much more effectively, leading to greater success.

Filing Audit

If you want to improve your filing efficiency you need to know the strengths and weaknesses of your current filing system. The questions below are a good list of questions that once answered will outline specific areas that need attention.

The Records

o How are your records stored? (Lever Arch, Foolscap file)
o What is the volume of records in linear meters
o Are there any duplicates or copies? If so what for?

Indexing

o How effective is your indexing?
o What do you like or dislike about your indexing?
o Is misfiling a common occurrence?

File Storage

o How effective is the storage system?
o What do you like or dislike about it?
o What are the present floor space costs?

Record Access

o How frequently are records retrieved from the system?
o How many people use the filing system?
o Do the records need to be secure?
o Are records returned accurately and on time?

Record Tracking

o Are the records needed for filing Audits?
o How do you keep track of your records?
o Does your tracking system work?

Evaluating your system

The answers to the above should enable you to evaluate:

o Records which are not needed could be archived or destroyed
o Records needing consolidation
o Any indexing improvements
o Effectiveness of the system

Creating an efficient filing system

o Avoid complicated indexing methods
o Avoid handwritten indexes
o Before opening a new record make sure its unique.
o When indexing a record think of the first identifying reference that comes to mind
o Be specific with titles, never use general or miscellaneous.
o Allocate a unique reference ID.
o All correspondence in the file should be dated or marked for reference
o Separate archive from live records

Further details on file creation refer to RMS 1.1 Standard written by the National Archives.

Tracking Records

What happens to your records when they are away from the system?

Case studies show that traditional tracking methods have become inefficient and unreliable An electronic system using a barcode or RFID tags will improve file tracking.

Locating and Controlling Records must be efficient. Record users should be able to file and retrieve records quickly and efficiently.

Tracking records in a filing system should:

o Assist with accurate retrieval of records
o Ensure access of records to staff authorized to do so
o Assist with record retention periods
o Record a complete history of a record's movement

If a record is removed from the system, the following information should be documented:

o The record's index details
o Who retrieved the record
o The date the record was retrieved
o A proposed return date and the actual return date

Conventional Filing Methods Vs End Tab Color Coded Filing Methods

It has been established by the industry that traditional suspended pocket filing is the most inefficient way of storing documentation. The suspended file pocket, by design, is estimated to waste between 15-20% of valuable storage space within the system. Furthermore, suspended file sockets have a tendency to split and as a result cause misfiling / lost files.

File Indexes in a hand-written or text-printed format can be difficult to read enhancing the opportunity for slow retrieval and misfiling.

Using standard folders, filing / retrieval times are slow and misfiling is a common occurrence purely because another folder hides a records index.

Portrait Lever Arch Files are designed with a fixed center of between 73-78mm, invariably the folder houses less capacity than the file offers wasting valuable shelf storage space, in addition because of its design, fewer storage levels can be achieved in a standard storage system .

By simply employing a color coded index system these inherent problems can be overcome.

Disposal

Disposing of records is an important part of maintaining control of your records. Before a disposal schedule is put into place you must understand all of your legal and regulatory business requirements.

Legal and regulatory requirements including the Freedom of Information Act 2000, the Data Protection Act 1998 and the Public Records Act 1958 all effect the disposal of records. All have imposed new and more stringent duties on public sector bodies with regards to records disposal.

So what does this mean?

Disposal does not mean destruction. It means any action taken to determine the fate of the record including transfer to an archive system. When it is not possible at any time to determine the disposal of the records they may be scheduled for review at a later date.

Retention usually means the length of time records are kept, sometimes known as disposal schedules. If a disposal schedule is not put into place, the standby is to store records indefinitely taking up unnecessary space.

Confidential information must be stored securely and disposed of by way of shredding.

For further details on disposing scheduling please refer to Disposal Scheduling (RMS 5.1) Standard written by the National Archives.

Bricklaying Tips

Almost all brick structures have a charming old-world feel about them. This charm is probably the reason why so many people fancy brick structures, and why many want to build with bricks or learn how building with bricks is done. In fact, bricklaying is increasingly gaining popularity among the do-it-yourself crowd.

Being one of the oldest crafts in the world, bricklaying requires a good amount of skill and know-how in order to do it correctly. Many do-it-yourselfers start out with a vision of what their end structure will look like, only to be left with a faulty wall that is badly joined, making it susceptible to the elements, which will eventually cause it to tumble.

If you’ve never built anything before, you are better off starting with something much simpler than a project which requires bricklaying. However, if you have been building for a while and have succeeded in building many successful structures, then bricklaying may be the next step in your do-it-yourself repertoire. Just keep the following tips in mind:

Space Out Your Bricks

Bricks have to be laid with even spaces in between. This promotes the strength of the structure. A basic brick wall, for example, should have about 10mm of space between each brick. This 10mm is filled with mortar, which holds bricks (and the entire structure) together. To make sure you get the spacing correct, try laying all your bricks out without mortar just so you can see if 10mm between each brick will leave you with even spaces. If it doesn’t, say your last bricks will have 2 inches of space between them, then increase the space between each brick, but do so by evenly dividing the extra space.

Tap Them Straight

When you start laying bricks, you want to make sure they are laid evenly and straight. Again this is important for the structure’s strength. A structure that has slanting (evenly slightly slanted) bricks may not last or hold for long. It is advised that you have a spirit level on hand at all times, and check to see if your bricks are even frequently throughout the bricklaying process. Checking after every two bricks lain is a good practice. If your bricks are not even, simply tap them down (needs to be done while mortar is still soft) so that they even out. Just remember to scrape away excess mortar.

Know Your Bricks

Before you even start on your project, it is important to know the bricks you are working with. Bricks can be made from several different materials and these can act differently in different climates. Study your climate and do some research on what type of brick will do best considering where you live. Also, know the sides of your bricks. Most bricks have a face, an indented side (sometimes called a frog side), the top, and the end. Some manuals on bricklaying may simply use this type of jargon without explaining each one, so be sure you are familiar with the terms.

Calculate Your Mortar Correctly

When mortar is mixed, you only have about two hours before you have to use it up. If you don’t, it will harden and will no longer be of any use. It is therefore important that you calculate your mortar correctly. This saves you time and money.

So, to calculate for mortar, determine how many bricks you need. A simple brick wall will need about 65 bricks per square meter. Get your total number of bricks and divide this by 135, this equals the number of bags of cement you need. Multiply the number of bags by three, this equals the cubic feet of sand you need. Divide the sand by 27 (which is the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard.) You need to know the cubic yards for sand because this is how sand is sold. Finally, you will need four to six gallons of water per batch of mortar.

Mathematically:

65bricks/135 = 0.4814815 (number of bags of cement needed to build 1 square meter of brick)

0.4814815 x 3 = 1.4444444 (cubic feet of sand)

1.4444444/27 = 0.0534979 (cubic yards of sand)

Keep these tips in mind when bricklaying, and you should be able to construct a simple brick structure, like a wall at the end of your garden. If you would like to create more complex structures, such as corners, arches, etc., then you’re best off calling an experienced Mansfield bricklayer.

Indication of Strictly Female Anatomical Diseases in Astrology

The strictly female anatomical organs include the ovaries, uterus, cervix, fallopian tubes, vagina, vulva and the breast.

The primary function of these organs is the reproduction; disorders affecting these organs may often result in infertility and impotency.

Female anatomical disorders are very common; many women will develop the symptoms of one or more of them during their lifetime.

Causes of female disorders: Age, genetic factors, hereditary factors, sexually transmitted diseases, hormone imbalance, infections, malnutrition and obesity.

Early astrological detection is imperative in the success rate of recognizing and treating all female disorders.

Factors responsible for female disorders

· Ascendant: general vitality

· 6th house: diseases

· Venus /7th house/ sign Libra: indication of uterus and ovaries, inflammation of uterus and ovaries diseases of ovaries, venereal complaints, typhoid, diseases of generative organs, diabetes, hormonal disorder genital troubles, venereal diseases the internal parts of the generative organs, produces complaints caused by excesses sexual pleasures.

· Moon/ 4th house:Moon: Brest, womb, blood, glandular system, tumours, female reproductive organs,diabetes, anaemia, nervous, asthma, menstrual disorder, diseases of uterus, and hormonal problems due to ovary hormones.

· 8th house/ sign Scorpio: death, trouble in womb and ovaries, chronic incurable diseases.

· Jupiter: significator of tumours and a cancer, arterial system

· Saturn: obstruction, acids, chronicity, incurability, glandular diseases, depression, injuries sustain from the fall, different forms of cancers, tumours.

· Mars: bleeding, inflammation in body, haemoglobin, injuries, infection and contagious diseases, haemorrhoids, diseases of uterus, miscarriages and abortions.

· Rahu: contagious diseases, undignostic diseases, intoxication, worries, phobia, psychological disorder

· Ketu: injuries, accidents, fevers, infections, mysterious diseases, surgery.

Different astrological combinations for female disorders

Common female organ disorders:

Pelvic inflammatory disease, endometriosis PMS, menstrual disorders

· Saturn in sign Scorpio, placed in the 8th house will give diseases of reproductive organs throughout life.

· Affliction to Moon and Mars in a female astrology chart create disturbance in menstrual cycles

· Afflicted 8th house/lord and sign Scorpio indicate generative organs problems

· Mars afflicting 7th /8th house and Moon induces endometriosis

· Venus square Mars gives congestion or the surplus blood being stored in the walls of the uterus or endometriosis

· Moon and 8th house/lord afflicted by Mars indicates excess bleeding in menstrual cycle and pelvic inflammatory diseases.

· Malefic aspects on lords of 6th and 8th houses, guarantees the presence of venereal diseases or some other disorders of the genital system

· Mars and Rahu posited in 7th indicates excess bleeding

· Moon and 8th house/lord afflicted by Saturn indicate scanty flow in menstrual cycle with severe pain

· Mars in the 6th house is an indication of acute illness of the genitals (bleeding and inflammation)

· Venus posited in 6th/8th/12th house indicates common female genitals disorders

· Lord of ascendant/6th, conjunct with Mercury and Rahu is the sure indication of female disorders

· 7th house/lord afflicted by Mars stands for inflammation and endometriosis

Ovaries disorders:

Include ovarian cysts, polycystic ovary syndrome and ovarian cancer.

· Afflicted sun/moon in sign Scorpio indicates ovarian disorder

· Venus affliction or Moon Square Mars can bring ovary complaints or trouble

· 7th house/lord aspected afflicted Moon/Venus can give the polycystic ovary syndrome.

· 7th/8th house/lord and Venus afflicted by Saturn and Rahu indicates ovary cancer

Uterus disorders:

Include fibroids, uterine polyps, prolapsed uterus and uterine cancer.

· 8th lord /house is malefic in nature/ posited in inimical sign/debilited/ set/ hammed between malefic/ conjunct and aspected by malefic, indicate uterus problems

· Lords of 6th and 8th related to each other indicate uterus disorders

· 8th lord/house and Moon are afflicted by Saturn and Rahu indicate uterus cancer

· Lord of 8th placed in 6th/12 house and aspected by Saturn and Rahu indicate uterus cancer

· 6th lord is placed in 8th/12 and aspected by Saturn and Rahu indicate uterus cancer

· Moon /8th house/sign Scorpio afflicted by Ketu indicate uterus fibroids

Blocked fallopian tubes

· Venus/Moon being afflicted by Saturn/Rahu indicates blockage in fallopian tubes.

· 7th/8th house afflicted by Saturn and Rahu indicates obstruction in fallopian tubes

Breast disease:

Breast cancer/tumours/lumps

· Moon/sign Cancer being afflicted by Saturn indicate lumps in breast

· Moon/4th house/sign Cancer badly afflicted by Ketu indicate lumps in the breast

· Moon /4th house associating with weak Jupiter indicate the symptoms of non cancerous tumours on the breast.

· 4th house/lord being afflicted by Saturn and Rahu indicates cancerous tumour in the breast

· Moon/sign Cancer is afflicted by Saturn and Rahu indicated breast cancer

· 4th lord posited in 6th/8th/12th house being aspected by Saturn/Rahu indicates breast cancer

· 6th/8th/12th lord placed in 4th and aspected by Saturn and Rahu indicates breast cancer

Vaginal/ bladder / urinary tract infection

Women are more prone to these infections because the female urethra is shorter than the male’s and bacteria/virus/yeast can move up to the bladder/vagina more quickly in women.

· Lords of 4th and 7th posited in 6th/8th /12 house indicates urinary tract infection

· Lords of 4th and 7th are placed in an inimical sign and aspected by malefic indicates urinary tract infection.

· Mars in Libra/7th house may cause inflammation of urinary tract by infection.

· Lord of 6th/7th placed along with lord of 12th and aspected by Saturn indicates venereal infection

· 8th house/lord and Venus afflicted by Rahu indicates venereal infections

· Any affliction to Libra/ 7th house or lord by Saturn gives rise to diseases concerning kidney, bladder and the pelvic region

· Afflicted Venus in Libra may cause suppression of urine and uraemia.

· Moon, Venus and lord of ascendant combine with the Sun and Rahu; the native may suffer from syphilis

· Malefic aspects of Saturn, on Scorpio /8th house, are a predisposition for a bladder stone

· Sun in 6th being aspected by Saturn indicates loss of vitality due to excess sex

Osteoporosis

Although not a disease restricted to females, osteoporosis seems to prey most often women over the age of 60.Osteoporosis is caused by low amounts of phosphate and calcium in bones, causing them to be porous, brittle and more apt to break.

· Afflicted Saturn /sign Capricorn indicates osteoporosis

· Afflicted Sun/sign Leo or Jupiter / sign Sagittarius indicate low bone density

· Sun posited in 6th/8th/12th house, debilited, conjoined or aspected by malefic planets, gives bone weakness.

Plantar Fasciitis Syndrome – What Exactly Is Plantar Fasciitis?

All About Plantar Fasciitis

A plantar fasciitis problem is a state that affects the foot's surface and is mostly seen among overweight people, runners, and people having high arches or flat feet or may be those who rest on the feet for much longer hours while doing their job. This problem is an irritation of tough plantar fascia, which runs from the heel bones to the bottom of the toes.

It mainly results from developing a tear in the fibrous tissue bands (plantar fascia), which leads to inflammation and pain. It is characterized as excruciating pain in the heel specifically in the morning. Plantar fasciitis is caused by the stress that is placed on the ligaments of plantar fascia while it is irregularly stretched.

During the rest moments, plantar fascia usually tightens up creating the pain diminishing. Although, the time pressure is placed on fascia, plantar fasciitis stretches firmly and the pain is experienced again.

The major symptoms of the plantar fasciitis are feeling the severe pain in the heel's inner side. If a severe pain is being noticed by an individual in the foot on taking initial steps in morning then an individual is suffering from the problem of plantar fasciitis. Because of the feet's warming up through the day, the pain relieves and plantar fasciitis stretches gradually. Also, people suffering from this problem may find it difficult in climbing the stairs because of pain in the foot.

In most of the cases, the treatments of non-surgical can assist an individual to completely eliminate the problem. The nature and duration of whole treatment varies depending on the severity. Plantar fasciitis treatment should be immediately initiated the very moment the problem occurs. It assists in eradicating the problem of plantar fasciitis in a short span of time.

The initial stage of treatment includes loads of rest, after the routine activities of applying ice in the regions of pain, some moderate stretching and anti-inflammatory remedies in order to relief their heel from the pain. It is recommended to wear night splints, as this would maintain the tissues to get stretched gently through the night with the intention to relate the sufferer from pain.

To less the pain caused due to plantar fasciitis Orthotics, shoe inserts are the best options available. If the pain is very severe and the people experiencing this problem of plantar fasciitis are not responding to the treatments that are mentioned above then the doctors make use of cortisone injections in order to ease of the pain.

Another treatment to relieve from the foot pain is exercises, which are necessary to be done in the early morning as soon as the patient of plantar fasciitis wakes up. Some of the exercises include belt-stretch exercises that involve reverse arch stretching of foot by making use of wide belt located over the foot's ball.

Strengthening and stretching exercises make ligaments very flexible as well as strengnthens the muscles that support the arch and this in turn will reduce the amount of stress on ligaments. Stretching plantar fasciitis exercises are also suggested to the patients facing the problem of foot pain.

For more information, check out the internet's # 1 resource for plantar fasciitis treatment.

The Best Way to Reinstall Windows Without Losing Data

At some point during the course of your computer's use, you will find yourself in the unenviable position of having to reinstall Windows. There are many reasons for this. Sometimes important system files got corrupted or disk errors or viruses caused your system to become unstable.

This is all a result of wear and tear on your PC. When that time comes, you will have to not only know how to reinstall windows, but how to reinstall windows without losing data. Here we refer to a fresh install of Windows and not simply an attempt to repair a few files.

1. Your Vendor's Restore CD

The first step in knowing how to reinstall windows is to locate your vendor's restore CD-otherwise known appropriately enough as a rescue or boot disk. Windows comes with its own rescue CD as well. If that's the only one you have at your disposal then locate your operating system's instructions below.

Rescue CDs are not all alike. Some give you rescue functions as well as important software drivers for your computer. Others are more basic, only allowing you the ability to reformat your hard drive. Do not reformat your hard drive without backing up your personal files to another medium first! Your personal files are those located under 'My Documents' in Windows. The exact location of your personal files and folders varies from one operating system to another.

In Windows XP, for example, you will backup everything in C: Documents and Settings. In Windows 98 and ME, you will backup C: My Documents. More instructions follow below for your particular system. If you have any other folders where you've stored personal stuff back those up as well.

2. Windows 98 and ME CDs

With Windows 98 and ME you do not want to just reinstall windows without backing up important system information. This information can be found in your Windows folders.

First create a new folder on your C: drive and name it oldWindows. Then use Windows explorer to navigate to your Windows folder. Once there, locate the following subfolders: All Users, Application Data, Desktop, Favorites, Local Settings, Profiles, SendTo, and Start Menu. Copy these folders to the oldWindows folder you created.

Now it's time to reboot. Restart Windows with your boot disk Upon startup select Start computer with CD-ROM support. Drivers will begin loading so go ahead and insert your Windows CD-ROM.

To reinstall windows properly you will need to delete your directory tree so type c: windowscommanddeltree / yc: windows and press the Enter key. After that you need to invoke the Windows setup installation procedure located on your Windows CD. Type your CD drive letter and then type setup.

Next get into the DOS prompt from Windows and type

xcopy c: oldWindows *. * c: windows / s / h / r / c.

This will restore all important system information.

3. Windows 2000 and XP CDs

If you have Windows 2000 and XP you need to know how to reinstall windows properly as well. Insert your Windows CD and boot your computer. Upon startup you will see Press any key to boot from CD.

After clicking you will come to the welcome screen. Press Enter, then press Escape to start a restore. From the menu options select C as your current partition and then l to delete the Windows folder. Enter temp as your user name when prompted. Reboot and you will be logged in as temp.

Next you will restore your personal files. Windows 2000 users should login as temp, then Administrator and then back to temp again. Then navigate to C: Documents and Settings and you will see an Administrator folder and one with Administrator: computername.

From DOS type cd documents and settings and then press Enter. Type xcopy administrator *. * Administrator.computername / s / h / r / c, substituting for computername your folder that was appended to Administrator earlier. Your personal files will be restored.

4. For Both Windows XP and 2000

Windows XP and 2000 users need one extra step to know how to reinstall windows correctly. Create a new folder on your C: drive and label it oldData. Then go to My Documents and Settings and copy all of the folders for each username to oldData.

In Control Panel go to User Accounts and create a new account for each of these users – use their names as spelled out under their Documents and Settings folders. If you're using XP ensure that at least one account has Administrator privileges.

For each user on your computer, log off and log in with that user's name. Then login as Temp and drop down into the DOS command prompt interpreter. Now type

xcopy c: oldData *. * "c: documents and settings" / s / h / r / c

Then press Enter. Go ahead and confirm that you want to overwrite files. When you're done, log off and then login as each user. Each user's Documents and Settings should be restored.

5. Finishing Up

After you install windows you need to install other software too, like drivers and Windows Updates from Microsoft's web site. Check for any graphics drivers that you may need to install from a vendor CD.

Look for all of your old personal files and make sure that they are all there. If not, check the C: oldData folder and move the files to the correct location. Once you are absolutely sure that you have everything you can delete both the oldData folder and the Administrator folder.

Conclusion

It may have come as a surprise to you to learn that you can reinstall windows without having to wipe out your hard drive. With a fresh install of Windows you can restore to your computer the speed and efficiency which it had when you first bought it.

A fresh install will do wonders for your computer's performance and will be better for your system than a simple repair. In order to save your personal files you simply need to create temporary folders as we resulted in this new installation.

The Best Barbecue Grills Are Lynx Grills

If you are passionate about cooking and love to grill, you know the value of having a high quality grill. If you use a cheap grill when preparing food outdoors, the choices are high that your food will not turn out well, the meat will be cooked unevenly and you may even under cook some foods. Lynx grills are some of the world's best grills that money can buy. These are professional grills and most of the world's best chefs own a Lynx. Food tastes best when it is cooked outdoors on a grill. If you cook on a Lynx outdoor grill, you can rest assured that your food will turn out just as you had expected it to.

These high grade grills offer you innovative features, outstanding performance and superior craftsmanship. The lineup of grills offered by Lynx are built as either the built-in variety or as freestanding grills. Of course you need the proper utensils and cooking gear when grilling but this company has you covered in that department as well with Lynx grill accessories.

Lynx grills use an advanced ignition system to ensure that the burners ignite as they should. To make sure that your food cooks evenly, a lynx outdoor grill offers a heat stabilizer that ensures that the heat at the grilling surface is not affected by wind. The burners on these grills are made of cast brass, unlike the hollow tubular steel burners that are used on almost all other grills. The burners hold heat very well and radiate heat better at higher temperatures.

For restaurant quality performance, Lynx outdoor grills have an infrared burner that sears steaks like the fine restaurants do and when turned lower, can cook delicate seafood. If you are in the market for a new outdoor grill and want only the best, you simply can not go wrong with a Lynx. The signature trademark of a Lynx outdoor grill is the blue LED lighting that is built into the grill. These lights illuminate the knobs, Inside you will find halogen light that illuminate the cooking surface.

If you run your hand over a Lynx grill, you can feel the quality. The welds are seamless and you will notice a lack of screws and sharp edges. You are able to lift the lid with a single finger thanks to the nicely places springs and perfect balance.

How to Break in Prescription Orthotic Shoe Inserts

The use of true prescription-level orthotics to aid in the treatment of foot ailments has steadily increased over the last thirty years. Commonly prescribed by podiatrists, sports medicine doctors, and other medical professionals, orthotics function to provide support for flat arches, shock absorption for high arches, and allow for an excessive amount of control to the pressures of the heel and the bottom of the foot. Because each orthotic is made specifically from a structurally corrected mold of the foot, the alteration and improvement of foot function is dramatically improved over that of less specific over-the-counter inserts and inserts made of a non-corrected mold of the foot. Each orthotic should 'fit like a glove', so to speak, and should be completely satisfied to wear the entire day. Most people can begin wearing new orthotics without discomfort right from the start. However, there are a small amount of people who require a break-in period to get the feet used to standing on the inserts all day. This article discusses this break-in process, and how one can get the most out of their new orthotics in as little time as possible.

When new orthotics are uncomfortable to wear, it can be incredibly frustrating. Many people expect instant relief of foot discomfort, and this is understandable given the nature of foot pain and the costs sometimes contributed to get orthotics in the first place. Orhotics should not cause discomfort. One has to assume that they were properly casted for in the first place, and the proper prescription was used to make additional configurations to the basic design based on the physician's examination of the foot structure. One also has to assume the lab correctly fabricated the insert to the proper specifications. To immediately assume that either one of these steps were done incorrectly does not help what really must be done: a break-in period performed with patience and persistence. The frequency of improper casting, prescription writing, or manufacture of orthotics is usually quite low. These factors should only be realistically considered after all other measures have failed to provide last comfort.

The break-in period is a short span of time in which the foot becomes accustomed to the control that the orthotic is providing. In essence, a proper orthotic will provide gentle but firm support of the foot structures. This includes support of all the muscles and ligaments which have become lax during a lifetime of abnormal support. The orthotic will force these structures to realign properly. For some, this can cause a brief irritation of the lax tissue, or it can force some muscles to function properly for the first time. These actions can cause discomfort, and this will be felt while the orthotic is worn. A simple plan to gently introduce the foot to increased support is vital in making the orthotic comfortable to wear. When one first receives their orthotics, they should be worn immediately. When and if the orthotics become uncomfortable, they should be removed from the shoes. After several hours, they can be placed back in the shoe and used again until discomfort develops. Alternately, one can wait until the next day to try again. This cycle is to be repeated daily, with a longer wear time achieved each day. Occasionally, after two or three weeks, the orthotics will no longer be uncomfortable. Another common strategy is to wear the orthotics for one hour the first day, and then increase the wear time by one hour each day that follows. In this author's professional experience, it is very uncommon for a properly followed break-in period to fail providing a complete adjustment of the foot to the orthotic.

There are other factors that do contribute to the failure of a break-in period leading to comfort with an orthotic. The most common of these involves an incompatibility of the shoe with the orthotic. Although orthotics are designed to fit into a wide variety of shoes, not every shoe in circulation is appropriate for an orthotic. The orthotic should not slide under the foot with shoe use. This indicates a shoe that is sized to big for one's actual foot size. They also should not have to be crammed into the shoe, with little room left for the foot. This indicates the shoe is too small for the foot or is too small or narrow to work with an orthotic. Stubbornly holding on to improper shoes at the expense of orthotic comfort strictly for style reasons is foolish, and will never lead to a comfortable orthotic. One must be sensible and reasonable regarding their shoe selection. This does not mean a sacrifice of fashion sensitivity, it simply means being reasonable and accepting of ones own body and foot structure needs. Another good example of this is the high heel. High heels force the body to place great pressure on the ball of the foot. This takes away the natural walking pattern the body uses to propel itself. An orthotic will never function properly in a high heel shoe as the body does not use the foot properly during this abnormal walking pattern, and pressure is not properly transferred through the orthotic. Although some boutique-style orthotics are constructed to be used in these types of shoes, their usefulness is debatable. Another factor contributing to break-in failure involves instances in which a shoe may properly fit, but certain design choices by the manufacturer creates a limitation for proper orthotic use. For example, some athletic shoes contain extra padding around the top of where the shoe hits the heel.

This padding pushes the heel slightly forward in the shoe, causing the foot to slide too far down the orthotic. The 'arch' of the orthotic will now be slightly further back, and this can be the source of discomfort. Another example includes shoes that already add arch padding inside the shoe. Although this padding on its own offers little true support, the bulk of its volume can force the orthotic slightly out of alignment in the shoe, or it may prevent its fitting altogether. This internal padding needs to be removed prior to wearing orthotics. Sometimes this material is easily removed in one loose piece, and other times it is lightly glued into the shoe. If it is stitched in, removal will be difficult and may leave an rough surface for the foot to rest on. A different shoe should be selected in this case. Finally, one must consider the medical condition leading to the use of orthotics in the first place as a possible cause for break-in failure. When someone has a foot condition in which there is a constant state of inflammation and tissue damage, and this has not yet healed, then the introduction of a firm device under the irritated tissue can cause pain and discomfort. Certain conditions, such as those involving heel or arch damage, must be healed or adequately improved before an orthotic can be tolerated properly. Once the condition is treated, then the orthotic will function more comfortably and will usually contribute to the prevention of the condition returning if it was related to one of foot structure in the first place (as many foot problems are).

Once all outside factors are accounted for, and one has gone although a proper break-in period, any continuation of orthotic discomfort should be a cause for concern. It is at this very uncommon time that one must consider factors like improper casting, prescribing, and manufacture as a cause for continued discomfort. The physician prescribing the orthotic should review the orthotic completely at this point, as subtle changes or problems can sometimes be missed that can contribute to an uncomfortable orthotic. At times the orthotic may need to be returned to the lab for modification or replacement. In many instances, a simple modification in the doctor's office can bring about an alteration that is successful in making the orthotics comfortable. With all this in mind, one final factor needs to be considered. There are those out there, who by personal quirk, psychological irritation, or bad luck simply can not tolerate anything to be placed under the feet outside of a loose and cushioned shoe. Unfortunately, these people will never be able to tolerate an orthotic. Fortunately, this is an extremely rare occurrence in this author's experience.

History of Skincare Part 13: The Elizabethan Era, 1500-1599

A Northern Renaissance

It took nearly one hundred years for the Italian Renaissance to catch up with the British Isles, but when it did, the results were spectacular. Under the rule of Queen Elizabeth I, England began a quest of expansion that saw the creation of new colonies throughout the world. Large portions of India, Africa and North America were built up under British rule. While the merits of British colonialism may be debatable, however, there is no doubt that the Elizabethan Era represented an expansion of thought as well as an expansion of political power. Legendary playwrights and poets such as Christopher Marlowe and William Shakespeare based their works on the same Classical material that had inspired the Italians a century earlier. Clothing became increasingly elaborate and make-up quickly followed suit. At a time when a much greater emphasis was put on appearance than on health, however, hygiene and skincare often fell by the wayside.

The Elizabethan Look

During this time, Queen Elizabeth’s look ruled the hearts and minds of British women. While clothing had become increasingly structured throughout the later part of the Middle Ages, Elizabeth took this sense of structure to new heights. Tight corsets were worn to give the body a smooth, shaped appearance. While proper hoop skirts had yet to be invented, women tied large pieces of padding around their hips to thrust their skirts out into wide, oblong hoops. Starched ruffles were worn around the neck and hair was often pinned into elaborate up-do’s. In spite of the extreme ornamentation of their clothing, however, the face was still the focal point of the look and cosmetics took on a much greater importance than they had in Medieval England.

Queen Elizabeth is often credited with being the first of her time to adopt a completely made-up appearance. While she may have been the first, however, the noblewomen of Britain quickly followed suit. Women would paint their faces with a white powder referred to as Venetian ceruse. The best ceruse was made of lead, carbonate and hydroxide. Less expensive alternatives were made from talc or boiled egg, although these were considered to be less effective. Once the heavy powder was applied to the face, women would rouge their cheeks with a red paint called fucus and paint their lips with vermilion. The first lip sticks were made during this time by putting sun-dried vermilion and ground plaster into a device similar to a pen. (Go here to learn more about the Elizabethan lipstick-making process: http://www.cosmetic-business.com/en/showartikel.php?art_id=1409 ) To add a glazed appearance to their look, women would coat their face, make-up and all, in a layer of egg white.

The Great Coverup

During the Elizabethan Era, elaborate make-up was seen as a sign of nobility, because few common people could afford the lead powders and dried vermilion used to create the popular look. As the century wore on, however, cosmetics also began to be associated with disease. Poor hygiene had led to a number of serious plague and smallpox outbreaks and many survivors still carried horrible scars and pock marks on their faces. While disease was rampant among rich and poor alike, only the rich had access to the expensive cosmetics that would cover their scars. Strengthening the connection between make-up and poor health, doctors at this time began to discover that lead powder was not as safe as had previously been thought. Women rarely washed their faces, choosing instead to layer new powder over the old, and years of this treatment were found to turn the skin underneath a dull shade of gray. While many doctors recommended switching to an alum or tin-ash based powder, lead prevailed in popularity.

Many women went great lengths of time without cleaning the powder from their faces. When they did want to remove their make-up, however, they found that the thick, caked-on lead was not easily removed with water alone. In order to strip the cosmetic layers, they turned to a combination of skincare science and superstition, washing their faces with everything from gentle rainwater or donkey’s milk to more astringent red wine or urine. Mercury was also among the common skin care products used to treat acne, wrinkles, scars and discoloration. While it did effectively remove these blemishes, it did so by corroding the surface of the skin and often caused scars that were far worse than those it removed. (Go here to learn more about Elizabethan cosmetics and hygiene: http://www.fragrancex.com/fragrance-information/elizabethan-makeup.aspx )

In spite of the health concerns of the day, Elizabethan women were known for their excessive beauty and cosmetic practices. It was these excesses, among others, however, that would cause a Puritan revolt in the next century and see Oliver Cromwell take control of the British throne.

5 Symptoms That Could Mean You Are Going Blind

Of all our senses I think most people would agree that vision is the one we would least like to be without. When you ask people the classic dilemma of whether they would rather be deaf or blind, at least 80% will say deaf. Without vision our lives would be very different from what they are right now. Imagine not being able to drive, work or get around without assistance. Our whole independence would be under threat and we would have to learn a whole new way of life. Having regular eye tests is one way of ensuring that you maintain your vision, as does understand what symptoms you must never ignore. Although there are exceptions and these symptoms do not 100% mean you will go blind, they potentially could be a sign of an impending visual threat. The following lists the visual symptoms you should never ignore:

  1. Flashing lights: If you notice flashes of light in your vision this could indicate a retinal tear or retinal detachment, which if left untreated could lead to blindness. Although flashing lights can also relate to some innocuous physiological changes within your eye, it is best not to take the risk.
  2. Floaters: About one third of the population have floaters to some degree and they are more prevalent if you are short sighted. Floaters that you already have are not of any concern but you should always seek medical advice if you ever notice any new floaters. Like flashing lights, they can relate to either a retinal detachment or a normal physiological change within the eye. When flashes and floaters occur at the same time, there is an even great chance that you are having a retinal detachment.
  3. Distorted vision: The easiest way to describe distorted vision is if you look at something with a straight edge, such as a door frame, it will look wavy or curved. This symptom could signify that you have macular degeneration which needs to be seen as soon as possible by an Optometrist. The quicker you are seen the more likely is the chance that something could be done about it.
  4. Blurred vision: If you notice any sudden reduction in vision, then you should immediately consult with an Optometrist. Sudden blurred vision could refer to a whole range of eye health problems. Do not assume that it is just your glasses that need changing and do nothing about it. Acting quick improves the chances of successful treatment.
  5. Blind spots: If you ever notice a blind spot in your vision you must seek medical advice immediately. This could refer to a problem with your eye or possibly something going on in your brain.

Whilst every one of these symptoms may turn out to be a false alarm it is not worth taking the risk of leaving it to chance. An Optometrist will be able to fully assess the health of your eyes and decide what course of action to take next. Treatment saver is a website that allows you to learn about everything from eye health to laser eye surgery.