Ball of Foot Pain – Causes and Treatments

Ball of foot pain is classically defined as metatarsalgia (MET – tuh tar – SAL – juh). The term metatarsalgia is used as a catch-all term used to describe a number of medical conditions which cause pain under the ball of the foot. The long bones in the foot are called metatarsals and the end where the metatarsals meet the toes are called the metatarsal phalangeal joints. Combining the name of the bones, "metatarsal" with the suffix "algia" means pain appropriately describing this condition. The heads of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th metatarsals make up what most consider the ball of the foot. These joints are the most commonly affected due to excess pressure, overuse and / or microtrauma, which results in inflammation and pain.

The most common symptom is deep, achy pain under the ball of the foot which can become sharp or stabing with standing or walking. There may be shooting pain or tingling in the toes, which would indicate an inflated nerve. A feeling of walking on a lump or cord or a "bunched up sock" under the foot is common. The pain is usually worsened with walking and long periods of standing, especially when pushing off of the ball of the foot. Narrow shoes can increase the pain and rubbing or massaging the forefoot may alleviate the pain.

A few of the common causes of ball of foot pain include faulty foot mechanics, structural deformities such as hammertoe or dropped metatarsal, ill fitting shoes and being overweight. Many times it's a combination of the above contributors which results in metatarsalgia. Faulty foot mechanics are an inherited trait resulting in abnormal motion of the foot. In forefoot conditions, tight calf muscles and overpronation (over-rotation and foot collapse) cause excess pressure on the forefoot. Tight calf muscles cause the heel to lift early when walking and this redistributes the weight towards the front of the foot. Over-rotation of the foot and arch collapse, in combination with hypermobility of the 1st ray (arch and great toe) causes the weight to shift from the great toe to the smaller toe joints when walking. An essential and abnormal force is placed on a small area of ​​the foot during "push off" and these results in repetitive strain, irritation, inflammation and pain of the small joints (2nd, 3rd and 4th metatarsal phalangeal joints) in the foot. Specific conditions, such as a neuroma or second metatarsal overload syndrome may develop.

âEUR¨Runners have a high risk of developing metatarsalgia because of the repetitive forefoot impact, but any sport which involves push off at the forefoot can be a potential problem. When an athlete changes their training regimen by adding hills or sprints, excess pressure can cause pain and inflammation at the joints in the forefoot. Poor quality shoes, lacking support and shock absorption can contribute to the development.

Structural deformities such as hammertoes can cause pain under the ball of the foot. The hammertoe is a crooked toe which causes retrograde force on the metatarsal head. As the toe cocks up, the head of the metatarsal is pushed down. The metatarsal head is now prominent on the bottom of the forefoot and more susceptible to increased pressure. Many people will complain of the feeling of a lump or nodule under their foot or complain about walking on a bone under the ball of the foot.

Poor quality or ill-fitting shoes are one of the more common reasons for the development of ball of foot pain. Narrow, tight shoes compress the forefoot and force the metatarsal heads together. This position impairs normal function of the foot when walking and increases rub and irritation in the forefoot area.

Treatment involves identifying and addressing the cause of the problem. In many cases it is a combination of faulty foot mechanics, poor quality shoes and an change or increase in a training regimen or recent weight gain. Orthotics should be used to control abnormal foot motion and disperse pressure more evening. Shoe should be rigid along the sole, only bend in the toe area, have at least a 1/2 heel and have adequate support. Calf stretches or night splints can be used for those with tight calves to eliminate the heel lifting early during walking. There are a variety of metatarsal pads which can be used to distribute the pressure under the ball of the foot to help alleviate pain and accelerate healing.

How to Install a Brick Paver Sidewalk

Installing brick pavers can produce a multitude of patterns and colors, all chosen by the DIY’er. There are just tons of brick paver sizes, shapes and colors available at home centers and masonry suppliers today. Make sure you take the time to visit several sellers before picking out the final products for your walkways. Installing a paver walkway is not very difficult but does require a good deal of manual labor. If the walkway is not directly adjacent to an area that the pallets can be placed when delivered, then the amount of labor increases as you have to move the pavers over a distance to the actual work area. This is the area of work where friends can be a great help.

Start your project by laying out the walkway itself. A garden hose is an excellent tool for layout if the new walkway will have curves. Layout the hose as close to the shape as you desire and then fine tune it until it is exactly correct. Using regular lawn lime and a paper cup, mark the hose location and that will be one side of the new walk. Wash the hose and make sure you wash the lime from your hands. It is great for lawns and eco-friendly. A handy tool you will use over and over is to cut a two by four, six inches longer than your walkway is wide. It can be used during layout to assure you have prepared a wide enough area for the pavers and then as a screed board to level the base sand under the pavers themselves. Now, remove the soil, gravel, earth, etc. from the walkway area plus at least three inches on each side. You want to excavate the walkway at least two inches deeper than the thickness of the paver stones. If you want the stones to be flush with the adjoining lawn or driveway, measure the stones thickness and add two inches and excavate to that depth.

Once the excavation is completed, you will place at least two inches of stone dust or concrete sand in the bottom of the excavation. Using your two by four screed board and a carpenters level, level the sand keeping it slightly higher than what you want the finished product. Once the sand is in place, a gasoline powered mechanical tamper must be used to thoroughly compact the sand. Keep in mind that the sand will settle when compacted and additional material may have to be added across the walk to attain the final finished compacted height. You want to be very fussy when doing this work. The final walkway surface will reflect whatever defects you have left behind in the way of dips or bumps in the sand. Make sure the compacted sand/dust is at least three inches wider on each side than the finished walkway width.

Using a string line to maintain the location of one side of the walk is always a good idea. If one side is straight the other side will follow. Start laying your paver stones in whatever pattern you chose. Straight line, lap bond, diagonal, herringbone or any pattern you can think of is fine. Work across the full width of the walk and if you have a helper using a wet saw, cutting and placing any smaller pieces will greatly speed the work. As you complete an area, install a plastic brick edge retainer strip along with the supplied ground nails or stakes. Holding the retainer as tight to the pavers as possible, drive the ground nails into the ground securing the retainer strip in place. This prevents any sideways movement of the pavers. Proceed with paver installation until all pavers are installed.

Using whatever material you used as a sub base for the walkway, cast this material across the top of all the pavers and using a good stiff broom, sweep the sand/dust back and forth and diagonally over the pavers forcing as much material down into the joints as they will accept. When using stone dust, many contractors will also soak the dust making it settle even more tightly into the joints. You must now run compactor back and forth over the entire walkway surface. The compactor will not only settle the sand/dust into the joints it also pushes the pavers down into the sub base locking them into place. Use some hearing protection during this phase as it will be very, very noisy.

Once the paver compaction work is complete, go ahead and replace whatever the surrounding area materials were. If it was lawn area, topsoil and seed the disturbed areas, burying the plastic retainer strip as you proceed. A brick paver walkway will last your lifetime and will become prettier with age.

Pete Ackerson

http://www.Wagsys.com

BICES-Building Inspection & Code Enforcement system software

What To Expect When You Buy a Turnkey Website

Buying a website business online can be slightly intimidating. In fact, buying anything online can be intimidating if you have never done it before. Whether you are buying a turnkey website or a teddy bear for your granddaughter, you never see the seller face-to-face and must rely on consumer review websites to determine if a purchase is a good idea.

The first quick signs of a good retailer is if they have a way to reach them via their website, they have a good selection of different niche websites, and the domain name of the turnkey website seller is older than a year or two (this indicates that their business practices are honest and what is promised is delivered, thus keeping them in business longer than a few months). Click here to read more about how you can find an honest turnkey website seller.

The first step to purchasing a website business is probably the easiest part of the purchasing process. This step involves the buyer (you) authorizing a transaction through an online payment gateway or sending money the old fashioned way, through a money order. (Take note that money orders are the safest and most reliable way to send money off-line. Cashier checks, especially checks drawn on banks you are unfamiliar with, are not full-proof secure and sometimes may be fraudulent.) But with that disclaimer aside, I prefer to use online payment gateways (PayPal is my preferred method, Google Checkout a close second) to send money when purchasing turnkey website businesses.

The payment process will be a bit different depending on if you use Google Checkout, PayPal, or another online payment gateway. But there are some common elements to all online check-out procedures: You will need to enter your information (name, credit card number, etc.) or you can sign-in if you already have an account with the payment processor (PayPal, Google Checkout, etc.) After you submit your information, you will usually go to a payment confirmation screen. Once you confirm your purchase, you will receive a confirmation message to the email address you entered in during the check-out process (or the email address you have associated with your existing account that you logged in with). The seller will also receive an email notifying them that a payment has been received, the amount, and the item number or product name.

Using payment systems like PayPal, Google Checkout, or Moneybookers is simply an easy, quick, and secure way to transfer money online. Like Visa and other large credit card companies, these online money transfer systems are built with a high level of security and send your information through securely encrypted channels to ensure your privacy. If you use a service like PayPal or Google Checkout, you can be assured that your money and information will be safe.

The second step takes place once you hear back from the turnkey website seller. Do not consider a sales confirmation from PayPal or another payment gateway company to be an actual response from the company. Companies usually respond within 24 business hours; some respond within just several hours and some may take longer depending on time difference and sales volume. If you feel the time to get a response has been too long, don’t hesitate to contact the company via email or on their website contact form.

When you do hear from the company, the email will most likely contain information for these four important next steps:

  • How to update your affiliate program link information
  • How the domain transfer process will work
  • How to login to your cPanel
  • What type of hosting is offered

(If you purchase your website from a reputable turnkey website retailer like ABC Design Studio, you should receive domain name and hosting for free or at a discounted rate. Click here to browse ABC Design Studio’s turnkey website businesses.)

You should carefully read this email and the instructions so you fully understand what is required of you so you can take ownership of your business. Don’t wait too long and don’t hesitate to ask questions if you need to. But keep in mind that a turnkey website broker, no matter how reputable, cannot be held responsible for your lack of action!

Many of the things that you will need to do is sign up for affiliate accounts (like Google AdSense, Commission Junction, or ClickBank) This process can take some time depending on how many affiliate programs your new turnkey website uses. If you are not computer-savvy, and your website links to multiple affiliate programs that are confusing for you, expect to spend 1-2 hours to complete your affiliate program accounts and to send an email back to the seller with your affiliate account information. Some companies have you submit your information via a form, which is generally more secure than an email. But both options work just fine.

The seller company will probably also give you instructions on how to set-up an account at a domain retailer like GoDaddy or HostGator. This is because, after your website is set-up and updated, you will need to take ownership of the domain name. The easiest way to do this is to transfer ownership from the seller to you through a popular domain seller website service such as GoDaddy.

The third step to this process happens after you receive an email from the turnkey website company letting you know the affiliate program link integration is complete, your hosting account is set-up, and your domain name has been transferred to you. If the company you bought from uses GoDaddy – the biggest online retailer for domain names and digital domain related products – then you will have to log-in to your GoDaddy account to accept the transfer.

After you accept the domain name transfer, your website has been successfully turned over to you. You can verify your ownership by visiting http://www.whois.net and typing in your website domain name. Do allow for a little bit of time for the WhoIs database to update its records. WhoIs may take anywhere from a few hours to a few days to reflect changes in website ownership.

After you have received ownership of the domain by following the steps outlined by the turnkey website seller or the domain company (GoDaddy, HostGator, etc.) – and you have verified ownership with WhoIs – you are now the official owner and operator of a website business!

Of course your work is not done. This is just the beginning in your journey in using a turnkey website business to make money online. The next steps are marketing, promotion, and learning how to bring targeted traffic to your site, which I will cover in future articles.

When it comes to the turnkey website purchasing experience, every company is different. But there are certain common themes in the purchasing process. If at any time you are unsure of what you must be doing or do not know how to finalize your website’s ownership transfer to you, never hesitate to contact the company you purchase from.

The more information you have and the better you understand how the website buying process works, the more comfortable and confident you will feel with the decision you have made – to become an Internet entrepreneur and work for yourself.

Jeanneau NC11 Review – Boat Buyer's Guide to Second-Hand Jeanneau NC11

The Jeanneau NC11 is a sport cruiser that offers massive living space with plenty of headroom through the two-cabin layout. For flexibility, the transom lounge slides fore and aft on rails to increase the size of the cockpit or the swim platform. Visibility is excellent, and three people can sit together facing the unbroken front windscreen pane. Its genuinely innovative design earned this powerful yacht the accolade of European Boat of the Year in 2011, and that makes it a top consideration for anyone considering a second-hand model.

Who and what was this boat designed for?

The Jeanneau NC11 is a sports cruiser which offers a panoramic view and a fully equipped helm station, which has a joystick making docking straight, and ensures that coastal cruising is easy and extremely enjoyable.

What commentators say about this boat

An eye-catching sports cruiser which hardtop also suggests utility.

Spending time on board comes with very few compromises. If you're looking for the good life on board, this model could very well be for you.

An apartment with terrace and sea views.

No other boat has offered such convertibility, in my experience.

An elegant outline and contemporary design presenting a new vision of the family boat.

Great circulation around and through the boat, with light and airy living spaces.

The latest innovations in terms of organization of space and approach to life on board.

Model variations

This model was launched in 2010, and is still in production.

• Single and twin diesel sterndrive versions are available.

Specifications

• Length overall: 36ft 6in (11.15m)

• Beam: 12ft 3in (3.74m)

• Draft: 3ft 3in (1.0m)

• Weight (twin engine): 6.5 tons (5925kg)

• Fuel capacity: 158 gallons / US gallons (720 liters)

• Water capacity: 82 gallons / US gallons (375 liters)

• Engines: Volvo D6 330DP or 2 x D3 200DP

What's great about the Jeanneau NC11

• Genuine innovation.

• Class-leading amount of glass.

• Walkaround decks and decent cockpit.

• Generous accommodation plan with great headroom.

• Very good performance and ease of docking with joystick or thruster.

• Light and airy space within saloon.

• Large toilet and shower compartment.

• Good owner's and second cabins.

• Sliding cockpit seating unit gives larger cockpit area when bathing platform not in use.

What to look out for on a pre-owned Jeanneau NC11

If you're buying a used Jeanneau NC11, our engineers and owners have reported some things to watch out for and potential faults that may occur on this boat from time to time.

• Very tight access to the bilge pump in the event of failure, replacement, or servicing.

• Float switches stick after time.

Keeping your Jeanneau NC11 in shape

When buying a used Jeanneau NC11, regular scheduled servicing and attention to some minor points will keep your craft in top condition.

Regular servicing

Carry out regular engine and drive serving in line with the manufacturer's recommended intervals.

Maintenance

• Electric roof option needs regular cleaning / maintenance.

• The side / rear access needs regular cleaning / maintenance.

Laying up

Follow manufacturer's recommendations when laying up for winter.

Model-specific repairs

The Jeanneau NC11 is not known for needing specific repairs more frequently than other boats.

Why buy a pre-owned Jeanneau NC11?

The Jeanneau NC11 makes a great family cruiser, combining economy with sporting performance. This stylish boat should be a serious consideration for anyone looking for a second-hand cruiser in this price range.

Fireplace Mantels and Surrounds

Before you start shopping for fireplace mantels and surroundings, you need to know the measurements of your hearth, fireplace facing, and a few other key elements. With those figures in hand, you can find a fireplace mantel or mantel and surround that will suit the scale of your fireplace and the look of your room. Determine What to Measure. If you're replacing your current mantel and / or surround, then you should measure that. If you are installing a new mantel or surround around a fireplace that has none, then you will need to make different measurements.

Measuring an Existing Mantel and Surround

Shelf Width – Measure the total width of the top of the mantel at the widest part.

Shelf Depth – Measure the depth of the mantel from the front edge to the wall.

Total Height – Measure the height of the mantel from the top of the hearth to the top of the shelf.

Total Width – Measure the entire width of the fireplace surround from end to end (if you have a surround). If you do not have a surround, measure the total width of the facing.

Projection Depth – Measure the depth of the side of the surround from the outer edge to the wall.

Opening Width – Measure the width of the fireplace opening.

Opening Height – Measure the height of the fireplace opening from the floor or the top of the heart surface to the top of the opening.

Side Distances – Measure from the edge of the heart or surrounding to the nearest light fixture, window, corner, or door on each side.

Measuring for a New Mantel and Surround

If you have a fireplace without a shelf or surround, then you would follow these measurements. These measurements assume you have a facing, which is a decorative material like brick or stone surrounding the fireplace opening. If you do not have a facing, skip those measurements. If you do not have a heart, which is a raised decorative surface on the floor beneeth the fireplace opening, then measure from the floor and skip the hearth measurements.

Facing Height – Measure the height of the facing from the top of the heart to the top of the facing.

Total Facing Width – Measure the total width of the facing from end to end.

Facing Width – Measure the width of the facing on one side of the fireplace opening.

Facing Depth – If the facing projects out from the wall, measure the distance from the outer edge to the wall.

Opening Width – Measure the width of the fireplace opening.

Opening Height – Measure the height of the opening from the floor of the fireplace, which is at the same level as the hearth, or the floor of the room if you have no hearth.

Hearth Height – Measure the height of the hearth from the floor to the top of the surface.

Hearth Depth – Measure the depth of the hearth from the front edge to the wall.

Hearth Width – Measure the width of the hearth from end to end.

Side Distances – Measure from the edge of the facing to the nearest light fixture, door, corner, or window on each side.

If you do not currently have a fireplace mantel and surround, please check your local building codes or fire safety department for the minimum distance from the fireplace opening to the mantel and surround.

Home Renovations: Laying Carpet on Stairs

Due to the frequent changes in elevation, it is harder to lay carpet stairs, than, say, your hallway. But do not let that put you off; if you have successfully rented other rooms, then why not the stairs?

Stairs can be carpeted with fitted carpet, on what's known as a runner – a strip of carpet.

Fitting runners to stairs

A woven carpet runner also enables the carpet to be moved occasionally to equalise wear. Old-fashioned stair rods with side clips might be used to hold a runner in place and form part of the stair decor, but it is now a lot more usual to use gripper strips. Unique pin-less grippers are offered for use with foam-backed carpets; the carpet is held in tight jaws. The wooden strips are utilized in pairs, one behind the tread, and one at the bottom of the riser, or you may get a metal version that's already formed into a right angle.

Cut the strips to length, this is crucial: 38mm shorter than the width of the carpet utilizing tin-snips or secateurs for wooden strips, or a hacksaw for the metal type. Nail them into place, omitting the bottom riser. The gap between each pair of wood strips should be just enough to squeeze the carpet down into. Cut the underlay to fit between the rods and tack close to the rods, omitting the bottom tread. No underlay is needed with foam-backed carpet.

Carpeting the bottom step

With a runner, an extra length of carpet is included so that it can be moved up to even out the wear taken on the treads: this is folded under the bottom step. The pile needs to run down the stairs to stop uneven shading and promote longer wear. Begin at the bottom of the stairs. Tack the end of the carpet face-down to the bottom tread, at the back close to the gripper. Lay it down over the tread to the bottom of the last riser, fold it back and tack the fold to the riser and tread. Run the carpet up the stairs, pulling it over the gripper rods and pushing it down between them with a bolster. It should join the landing carpet at the top of the last riser. If there is no carpet on the landing take the stair runner over the top of the final riser, turn under the edge and tack down.

Fitting carpet to the stairs

The fixings for a fitted stair carpet are as for a runner. The additional length of woven carpet is not needed at the bottom, though an underlay will need to be fitted to all of the steps. The gripper rods really should be the full width of the stairs. Fit the carpet from the top of the flight. The landing carpet will need to overlap on to the stairs and down to the bottom of the uppermost riser. The stair carpet should then be stretched over the gripper rods as usual and pushed down between them. Additionally, it will have to be trimmed to fit at the edges. No fixings are required at the edges.

Carpeting spiral stairs

Where the stairs go round a bend, gripper rods can not be used in the usual way. The carpet may be cut or folded to fit the turn.

Woven carpet: Fit the gripper rods just to the treads on winding stairs. Fold the spare carpet, with the fold falling down, and tack it to the bottom of the riser at 75mm intervals. Lay the carpet on top of next rod up and repeat the folding and tracking procedure.

Foam-backed carpet: Omit the pin-less rods altogether on spiral stairs. Tack the carpet to the tread, preferably at the back so that the tacks are not too obvious. Fold down the surplus and tack neatly on the underside of the riser.

How Much Traffic Gets 1st Page From Google's SERP?

Almost 8 out of 10 people search the web to find services – buy gadgets, clothes, find doctors, find restaurants, order food and almost everything you can imagine …

Internet opened up a big box full of services and your business has to be in that box otherwise you miss 8 out 10 of your potential customers.

It is almost a crime for you business, if you do not have a web presence.

Only 2 in 10 still use dusty, thick, paper directory books – like Yellow Pages.

8 out 10 search the BIG 3 to get information. Big 3 search engines are the dominant names on the search market:

  • Google
  • Bing
  • Yahoo

Combined, BIG 3 represent more than 95% of the search market.

ASK and AOL completes the picture with other 4-5%. Stats from comScore proved it.

Who uses Google? Bing? Yahoo?

The answer is everyone relies on Search Engines more and more each and every day and Internet gets into our life from all the angels.

Our PC is connected to the Internet, our smart phones and tablets are too and even the old TV has a smart set-top box that links it to the mighty WWW.

So, we all are hooked in, but who uses what?

(assumptions based on my experience and Nick's Software sites traffic, impressions)

Google tends to attract more skeptical individuals that search a lot until they decide where to buy from.

Yahoo still has more conservators users, Yahoo's loyal and somehow older, which also search less until they buy things.

Bing powers Yahoo now and it will bring the change for old Yahoo – Bing has a new breed of users – the skeptics that dislike Google and want a different search experience.

So, it's damn important to get your business listed on the big WWW and also you want it placed as high as possible in BIG 3's SERP (Search Engine Return Page).

Once you are there, you want your business to be visited and get thousands of potential customers, but actually who gets the traffic?

It's definitely a step forward to have a Site, Blog, and Social Media presence for your Business, but to get the traffic you need to AIM for PAGE # 1 in SERP of BIG 3's.

How much traffic Google's Page # 1 gets?

Let's start saying … a lot …. almost everyone gets the info from first page, which by default has 10 organic results displayed on it .

Very rare, we adventure exploring Page 2, Page 3, Page 4 … of SERP and even if we do, probably we do it for research purposes and NOT to buy something.

If you want your services to be bought …. you need to be on PAGE # 1 of SERP for all your most important keywords.

Page # 1 gets 90-95% of the traffic; the other pages get only impressions and NO CLICKS.

It's true that Page # 1 in Google, by example, gets all the cream and based on stats the Top 10 traffic split would be (example below is based on my experience and my websites stats):

Get the first spot on the first page in Google SEPR for your important key phrases and you will get between 35% and 60% of the clicks from a particular key traffic – percent may depend on your particular niche.

Second spot is not bad either, it will give you 10-20% of the clicks and number 3 wins at least 10%.

In almost all the niches, from forth place onwards you will get less than 10% of the clicks and the drop is more linear than for the first three positions.

If you have any other interesting stats about this subject please share / comment.

Seben Metal Detector – An Important Glimpse Into Its Different Features

Seben metal detector products are extremely controversial with comments ranging from good to bad. Some have found success in using these detectors while others are left feeling cheated. So, which side should you go for? Well, before you go ahead and decide, here are some of the features of Seben detector products that you can think over.

Seben metal detectors are often sold in eBay by a German based company. These products are primarily built to serve beginners, expert treasure hunters, and professionals (eg archaeologist). There are currently four types of Seben detector out there: Seben Extreme Power, Professional Deep Target, Versatile Perfect, and Best Price Treasure metal detectors. Most of these types are pretty light in weight, features easy-to-use controls, and helpful operation settings.

There's nothing more frustrating than always getting scraps during your treasure hunting. Fortunately, a Seben metal detector is programmed to have a fully adjustable metal differentialiation technique to help you screen out unwanted metal objects. That means can tabs, rusted nails, tin foils, or iron scraps can be excluded in your search. With the variable audio tones and large screen display, you will easily point out if you're detecting trash or something more valuable.

Depending on the model, these detectors could pinpoint large metal objects at depths that could reach up to 250 centimeters underground. For smaller objects, such as coins, a Seben can detect them 35 centimeters below the ground. You'll just have to remember to always do a regular sweeping motion to keep things going. These products also have adjustable sensitivity settings, so you can fine tune them according to your purpose and projected target.

The ergonomic design makes it possible to use these detectors with relative ease and comfort. They are light in weight, usually around 4 pounds, and have streamlined structures. And instead of complicated keypad controls, most of these have control knobs with easy-to-read display screens for your treasure hunting convenience.

Compared to White's, Tesoro, Bounty Hunter, and Minelab detectors, a Seben is undeniably a lot cheaper. That's why plenty of beginners find this suitable as their first detectors. You could buy this detector over at eBay for around $ 100 or so. But just to prove its worthiness, you can always compare it with other products that contain almost the same features as the Seben metal detector that you want to buy.

Although these are not exactly on top of their class, the different Seben metal detectors contain most of the essential elements that you would normally need to accomplish a day of treasure hunting adventure. Remember that not all cheap products are defective. But you should not also ignore all relevant information that you get from previous consumers. All you need to do is weigh the pros and cons of buying a Seben metal detector and never forget to also do some extensive research of your own.

Organic Gardening – Double Digging Your Garden Beds to Improve the Soil's Structure

There are great rewards to be had by double digging your garden beds. It is a very labor intensive method of improving the gardens soil structure. It involves the improvement of the first 2 feet of the gardens soil.

Double digging is hard work and is not for everyone. If you have health conditions that restrict you to heavy work or back problems I would recommend staying away from this method of gardening.

When double digging it is best to start out small and just work an area that you can handle. It is going to take time so do not try to take on to much because you will only get disgusted and most likely give up on finishing it. I do not want to make this sound like I do not want to make it sound like I am trying to talk you out if if this method to your garden because the benefits that you will get in return will be great. Just take your time.

Several days before you start this project you should mark out the area you want your garden and soak the area with water. Once you have fished that step wait a few days and remove any sod or weeds that are in that area and loosen the first foot of soil with a spade.

The next day you plan on working on your bed you can start by digging and removing a one to two foot wide area of ​​topsoil the width or the length of the garden area, depending on where you are starting. Take this topsoil and stockpile it at the opposite end of the garden from where you are starting. Depending on the size or distance you have to move it a garden cart or wheel barrow may be needed. This stockpile area is where you will end the garden. Pile it on the yard off the garden area on a garden cloth, boards or something that you can easily clean it up from at the end.

Once the topsoil is removed you will need to start loosing the subsoil layer of dirt below where the topsoil was. You can do this by taking a spade and sticking it deep into the soil, twisting or wiggling it until you breakup all the clumps of soil, do this the length or width of where you are working.

Next you will need to spread about a layer of organic matter over the loosened area of ​​subsoil. Once you finish that step it is time to start working the next 1 or 2 foot area that is next to the area you just finished. Simply take the topsoil off the new area and place it on top of the organic matter that you just put in. Continue these steps until you have reached the farthest end of your garden and replace the topsoil that you have stockpiled into the last trench.

Once all the topsoil is all back in place in your garden you need to spread a layer of compost or organic matter over the entire surface of the garden and work it into the top 4 to 6 inches of topsoil.

Now your garden is ready to plant. Remember, only work small areas of a garden that you plan on double digging at one time. The benefits will be great for both you and your plants.

Why Do Guys Avoid Pretty Girls?

It has been said that men are visual creatures. And the feedback from other people is that you are pretty. Yet, it seems that guys resist approaching you! I know how it can drive your heart and mind crazy at times when you see other girls, who are clearly less pretty than you, happily loved by their boyfriends. To help you regain your sanity and courage to venture into the dating world again, I have written this article about ‘Why Do Guys Avoid Pretty Girls’. Please don’t give up hope of finding everlasting love yet. If I can do it, so can you. Finish reading this article – because it could save you a lot of heartache and despair…

The biggest reason why guys avoid pretty girls is because men won’t approach a woman unless they think there’s a 75% chance that she won’t reject him.

I am not sure how well you know this, but the feeling of being rejected – by any woman, pretty or not, downright sucks. No guy in his right mind enjoys being rejected. That is why a guy will avoid approaching a pretty woman, unless he gets the feeling she will be open and receptive to his advances. By this, I mean that she communicates to the world, or to a guy in particular that she is friendly and safe to approach.

Unfortunately, the media makes it even scarier for guys to muster up the courage to approach pretty women. Haven’t you seen shows that portray pretty girls as mean girls? It does not matter whether it is true, or whether it has ever happened to a guy before. With some compassion, you can understand how a guy could easily imagine a pretty girl shaming or embarrassing him in front of a crowd. It is even more terrifying if a guy has already had negative experiences of approaching less pretty girls!

So how can a pretty girl give guys the courage to approach her?

The biggest tip I can give to solve the issue of guys avoiding you, is to cultivate a look that feels friendly to men in general. My personal secret is to smile from within. Learning how to smile from within is a skill ANY woman can acquire. But don’t be fooled into thinking that you can just plaster a fake smile on your face. If you do that, you run the risk of looking TOO approachable, which will attract all kinds of strange men to you. The trick is to figure out a way to genuinely share your gentle, soft, feminine side with the world, as much as you can. It took me a fair bit of effort to transform myself from within. It will take you some effort too. But I guarantee that it is more than worth it, when you find a man who loves, cherishes and never wants to let go of you, because you are so feminine!

Laminate Flooring Part 10 – Trimming Jams

Dealing with Door Jams when laying laminate flooring

What do you do when you come to a door jam? Jams usually go down nearly to the subfloor.

Two options for door jams

You have two options. One is ugly, at best, and the other is tedious. You could try to cut around the jam and try to make a fairly tight fit. You probably will not succeed in doing this.

Expansion of the wood

You actually need to leave a little gap around the jam to allow for expansion of the wood. This gap also allows for looking ugly and for debris to fall into the crack. The other option (this I is preferred by me) is to lay a scrap piece of laminate flat, near the jam Then take a cut off saw and, using the laminate as a guide for the proper height, rest the saw on the scrap piece and trim off the bottom of the jam I think this is a much better solution and allows you to cut the jam straight, and gives you a heavy 1/16 of an inch between the jam and the laminate (depending on saw kerf).

The laminate moves freely under the jam

This will allow the laminate to move freely under the jam When you actually put your piece under there, make sure it is still about 1/4 of an inch away from the actual wall that is behind the jam This way, as the floor expands and contracts, it will always appear the same, no gap between the jam and the flooring.

Swallow Tattoos Vs Sparrow Tattoos – Do You Know the Difference

Many people get swallow tattoos and sparrow tattoos mixed up. If you associate sparrow tattoos with a sailor he may get very upset with you. Many people use them interchangeably but there is a big difference. The majority of the bird tattoos that you see are swallows although many people call them sparrows. Learn the difference before getting the tattoo.

The birds themselves are very different. A swallow is a very common species. It has a beautiful blue color, with a long forked tail and curved, pointed wings. Sparrows are small, plump brown-grey birds with short wings. These are very different birds to be confused so easily. You very rarely see true sparrow tattoos.

If you do see sparrow tattoos, they are usually expressing some type of religious reference. Paraphrasing Matthew 10:29-31, Do not two sparrows sell for little value? Yet not one will fall to the ground without our Father’s knowledge…. Therefore have no fear. Ye are of more value than many sparrows.

On the other hand, swallow tattoos are very popular. These are the birds connected to sailors. Swallows tend to stay close to land so when a sailor would see a swallow, he knew that land was close. Another trait of the swallow is to return to the same mating place year after year. Sailors felt swallow tattoos were a charm to make sure they returned back home safely.

Swallow tattoos were also a sign of how seasoned a sailor was. New sailors would get their first tattoo after 5,000 miles at sea, then another after the next 5,000 miles. After that nautical star tattoos were used.

Because of the beautiful color of the swallow, there are many options when creating a design. A tattoo must be personal to be worthwhile. When you show your tattoo, you want to be able to tell a story. When designing your swallow tattoos, think about what makes it special to you. If you use your imagination you can make the tattoo express your feelings.

The best place to get great ideas on how to make your tattoo special is an online tattoo gallery. With membership to a good gallery you have unlimited access to thousands of high quality, professional designs that will make your tattoo stand above the rest. You can download as many designs as you want for no additional charge. Then you can take your time and put together a tattoo you will cherish for life.

Dog Shampoos and Bathing Products

If you browse online or in your local pet store, you will quickly discover that there are literally hundreds of dog shampoos and bathing products. Beyond simple shampoos, there are conditioners, detanglers, colognes for dogs, medicated shampoos, shampoos and conditioners for every skin condition, flea and tick shampoos, whitening shampoos, and color enhancing shampoos, and the list goes on and on.

How are you to know which products to buy for your dog? It can be hard to know what to buy. Here is an overview of the products available which should help you narrow down your choices and make a decision.

Shampoos for luxurious coat
Most dogs with normal skin can use this kind of shampoo. These shampoos may contain ingredients such as jojoba oil or have coconut oil in them. They usually have a nice fragrance. They will make your dog's coat look and feel good. There may be some slight differences between brands but most of these shampoos will be good for your dog's coat as long as he has no skin problems.

Shampoos for skin problems
Shampoos for dogs with skin problems are usually made for dogs with sensitive skin, dry skin, allergies, or irritated skin. They can have ingredients like oatmeal and other things to soothe the skin in them. These shampoos may also be moisturizing.

Medicated shampoo
Medicated shampoos are usually obtained from your vet or by prescription. They can contain ingredients such as chlorhexidine. These shampoos are usually effective but you have to follow your veterinarian's instructions.

Flea and tick shampoo
Flea and tick shampoos can range from products with natural ingredients to products with harsher chemicals. If you have a preference for natural ingredients you should be sure to read the label or the web site to make sure what the shampoo contains. If your dog has a heavy flea infestation you may need to use a shampoo with some of the stronger chemicals or talk to your vet about other flea control methods.

Whitening shampoo
There are many coats whitening shampoos today. Some of them use enzymatic cleaners and some of them bleach the coat. Read the label or web site to find out what each shampoo does. Whitening shampoos are primarily made for white or light-colored dogs but some of them will brighten other colors, too. Some whitening shampoos can be a little harsh on the coat so they are not recommended if your dog has sensitive or irritated skin.

Color enhancing shampoo
Color enhancing shampoos intensify colors other than white. There are shampoos for black coats, brown coats, red coats, and so on. They are generally safe but they should probably be avoided if your dog has sensitive or irritated skin.

Shampoo for stinky dogs
If your dog frequently smells bad from rolling in trash or getting into things he should not, then a shampoo for smelly dogs would be a good choice. These shampoos do not quite get rid of skunk odor but they will make your dog smell better as a result of just about everything else. On the other hand, if your dog smells bad because of a skin condition, he should see a vet. A medicated shampoo is probably needed.

Texturizing shampoo
Many terrier breeds are fitted to have crisp hair instead of soft or fluffy hair. Their coats are "plucked" instead of clippered, traditionally, and they do not shed much. In order to help the coat stay rough and crisp (which protected them from the weather originally), you can use a texturizing shampoo on their coat. Many terrier owners do not bother to do these things today, but there are texturizing shampoos available. When terrier breeds are shown at dog shows, they are prepared this way so they look correct.

Conditioners
There are almost as many conditioners as there are shampoos and probably one to match each coat type. In most cases it is fine to use a conditioner that is made to work with a particular shampoo (ie, if you buy Peachy Keen Shampoo for Pretty Dogs, Peachy Keen Conditioner for Pretty Dogs is probably a good choice). However, it is not always necessary to use conditioner on your dog. If you have a shorthaired breed with a hard, smooth coat, for example, your dog might not need a conditioner. Wirehaired dogs do not use conditioner. But dogs with medium and long coats usually need some conditioner.

Detanglers
Detanglers are often used on dogs with medium and long coats who are ready to getting tangles and mats. The detangler is usually sprayed on the dog when he is still wet from the bath. Then you comb through the coat and let it dry. The coat will usually resist tangling and knotting afterwards.

Colognes
You can also buy cologne for your dog to make him smell nice. If you have taken your dog to a professional groomer then you know that your dog smells very nice when you pick him up. Groomers usually spritz dogs with some cologne when they finish grooming them. Some dogs do not like the cologne so it's up to you whether you try it or not.

These are the kinds of shampoos and bathing products available today. This list should give you some idea of ​​which products will be most helpful for your dog.

How Does A MIG Welder Work?

The Metal Inert Gas or MIG welder has been developed since the 1940s and has become the choice way to weld. It uses a procedure called gas metal arc welding (GMAW). It is a reliably simple process. It uses a welding gun to control the feeding of a wire, also known as the electrode, and distributes a stream of inert or semi inert gas over the join to protect the process.

These days the most common gas to be used is the semi inert gas known as carbon dioxide as this is check and works effectively on most metals. Gases such as argon is also used when working on metals such as aluminum as it produces fewer splatters, giving a better finish.

The GMAW process has many more benefits compared with other types of processes. One of these advantages is that the gun has a trigger to control the electrode, allowing you to have more control and position the tip without the danger of striking an arc by accident. Once it is in the place you want, all you have to do is flip down your helmet and pull the trigger.

The shielding gases which are either inert (for a better result) or semi inert (cheaper) are used to protect the join and smooth and clean the joins. That way there is no need to clean off any slag. The process also allows work to be performed at reduced amps, so it can be used for thinner metals and sheet metal. A DC current is always used for this as using alternating currents does not provide a steady arc reducing the effectiveness of the job.

It also lets you adjust the amps, the voltage and the wire feed speed allowing you to have total control over the weld result. There is a valve on the handle that can control the flow of gas as well.

If you want you can also use a MIG welder even without the gas to shield the join. The process is called flux cored arc welding (FCAW). This process uses a wire that has a hollow core that is filled with flux to produce a clean join. This allows you to work outdoors as you dont need the shielding gas. As a result, the flux core wire is hotter and can be used for thicker joins. A resulting problem is that you will need to clean the slag from the join.

MIG welders are used to join tin, zinc, copper, aluminum, tin, brass and steel. There are also a lot of different configurations of MIG welding wires to choose from. It allows you to get the best combination for almost any situation. If you are on a limited budget and only want to purchase one welder and still be able to work on a variety of metals, the MIG welder is seen by many as the best one to go with.

Bridging the Gap, Using Scaffolding in Autism

Scaffolding is a term first used by Bruner, a psychologist in the 1950’s, to describe how parents help children to learn. Scaffolding is about providing support to your child so that they can achieve and learn something new to them and bridge their understanding. In order to fully understand scaffolding, it is important that you understand the zone of proximal development.

The zone of proximal development is a term coined by Vygotsky in 1978, also a psychologist, to describe the area between what your child already knows and what your child does not yet know, but almost knows. Understanding what your child does know and what they do not yet know provides us with useful information to find the next step of discovery for them and how we can support them in that discovery.

Once your establish this on going learning curve, you provide your child with as little scaffolding as possible to help them succeed on their own, with out over compensating for them. It is important that your child feels competent at what they are doing with the level of scaffolding you provide them; we don’t want your child to be over compensated but we also don’t want them to shut down and feel failure, particularly if their resilience is low.

Problem solving plays a big role in your child making the cognitive process towards their discovery. The mental processes that are supported through borrowing the guides thought processes learn to develop effectively on their own with less and less support. Physical guidance and scaffolding also contribute to a child being able to reach their discovery.

A common example I like to use is when a child is just learning to take their first steps, we tend to know when it is right for them and when they are ready (we wouldn’t start before crawling) and then we tend to provide them with the tiny bit of support that they need to get them where they want to go (typically child grasping onto index fingers as they move forward), but so that they are still doing the majority of the work (we wouldn’t do it all for them).

So here are some techniques and tips that help to scaffold your child toward their discovery;

1 – Frame/ plan your activities well so that you know what the big discovery will be.

2 – Think about your zone of physical connection i.e. the distance between you in order to help the child succeed with as little help as possible.

3 – Think about how your verbal and non verbal communication will play a role in supporting your child so that you do not over compensate and instead scaffold just enough for the child to succeed.

4 – Think about your planning and timing in order to allow your child to succeed in the time that they need.

5 – Consider the role that you are expecting your child to fulfil, is it reasonable? Will it benefit them? What will they learn from this interaction?

Next time you have a goal in mind for your child, consider these two things;

1 – Is this goal within my child’s zone of proximal development?

2 – How will I scaffold my child to make this discovery as much as possible on their own?